Perfume Reviews

Reviews by teardrop

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Total Reviews: 629

And The World Is Yours by A Lab on Fire

A gorgeous, opulent & very diffusive orange blossom scent, which smells immediately familiar to me. I cannot put my finger on why, until I remember reading that some reviewers find this to be in the same ball park as Alien, another of Ropion's creations. Yes, this is like Alien, but done with orange blossom, instead of jasmine. Others have compared it to Seville a l'Aube (which I also own & love), but this is texturally different: it's more rounded, smooth & warm, without that fresh, almost sharp edge that Seville has. There is sweetness here as it dries down, provided by notes of honey, heliotrope & tonka, but it's not a heavy, syrupy sweetness as found in Lutens' Fleur d'Oranger. Instead, the heart is beautifully balanced by neroli, which prevents the sweetness from overwhelming the orange blossom in its starring role. There's no further development, but one spray of this extrait is still going softly after eleven hours.
I have no regrets whatever on this blind buy, I just wish the bottle came with a cap. I hope it doesn't evaporate, because I wouldn't want to have to use up something this special too quickly.
07th December, 2018

Mx. by Eris Parfums

This opens with peppery incense & woods, quickly joined by the sweeter note of benzoin. lt's very soft, & as it dries down it becomes slightly smoky & powdery, with a salty, savoury note in the heart. I get no ginger, only the merest hint of castoreum, & five hours in it's barely there.
IsoESuperman's review is spot on: this is definitely unisex & pleasant, but it's nothing new, & the best that can be said is that it's inoffensive & subtle enough to be work-appropriate. The same accord has been done much better in fragrances like Labdanum 18 & Bois d'Armenie.
06th December, 2018

Ma Bête by Eris Parfums

The aldehydes in the opening are strong, giving this one a very retro, almost "turned" feel, & lasting around forty-five minutes before settling down. From the outset though, the animalic notes are easily apparent, most likely civet & costus, but this beast is a rather tame one, with moderate projection. Two hours in, an indolic jasmine turns the heart of this fragrance into a nicely balanced animalic oriental, & five hours in, I detect a smooth sandalwood in the base. At this stage it reminds me of Creed's Jasmine Imperatrice Eugenie, & it all hums along nicely for a good fourteen hours before fading.
Once the aldehydes dissipate, I quite enjoy this, but that opening is a deal breaker for me, disliking aldehydes as I do. I would go for the Creed over this one every time.
05th December, 2018
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50ml D'Ambiguite by Marlou

Wow, this is one animalic powerhouse! Just a few tiny dabs produce a massive wall of castoreum & costus, with its characteristic scent of unwashed hair & animal fur. I catch a fleeting whiff of ylang in the first few moments, but otherwise this is a linear fragrance, & takes over three hours to calm down into a softer, fuzzier, slightly powdery & more friendly beast. It continues to announce its presence with wafts of filth for many more hours though, & there's still traces left after thirteen hours.
I see from pictures that the bottle (quite rightly) carries a warning label: "Handle with care, may cause intense emotions". They're not kidding! I suspect though that these emotions may prove to be entirely negative where polite society is concerned. I've tried many animalic fragrances, but the only one to rival this in terms of filth was Papillon's Salome, which also proved too much for me. You have been warned: if you hate costus, steer clear, but if you're a fan of Salome, I urge you to try this!
05th December, 2018

Larmes du Désert by Atelier Des Ors

A bright, aromatic opening with lemony frankincense & coniferous woods is soon joined by ambery, resinous notes. I agree with other reviewers that this has an agreeable warmth to it that's lacking in some of the darker or more austere incense fragrances out there. And unlike those, I think this one would be easily wearable in warm weather. Over the first couple of hours, it smooths out & sweetens a little as the benzoin becomes more prominent, & it settles into a comforting, fuzzy golden aura. The projection is not massive, but the fragrance makes its presence felt in a most enjoyable yet undemanding manner. Nine hours in it fades closer to the skin, but lasts an outstanding twenty-two hours on me.
A very nicely balanced incense, this one, & easily unisex. Perhaps if they left out the gold flecks & made it more affordable, it might even have been bottle-worthy.
05th December, 2018

Baghari by Robert Piguet

The whoosh of aldehydes & bergamot in the opening give this a very old-fashioned, retro, almost "turned" feel. After ten minutes though, this impression gives way to the scent of dried orange peel that ClaireV mentions in her review. There are flowers here, but deep in the mix & not readily identifiable to me, obscured as they are by the orangey, ambery tone of the heart. I would say that iris is probably the only floral I can smell for sure here. Over the first hour, it becomes faintly powdery, reminding me of other powdery orientals like Stoned or Fleur Oriental. Three hours in, the florals have faded, leaving a musky, ambery base which resolves itself into the skin-like, intimate scents of costus & castoreum. The initially powerful projection has become correspondingly intimate too, although it continues quietly for over twelve hours.
I'm not fond of the opening, but I found the drydown of this one rather enjoyable, & I think it works well as a warming & enveloping scent for autumn/winter.
05th December, 2018

Adjatay Cuir Narcotique by The Different Company

This is a fine quality, clean leather with none of the butch or "meaty" associations that sometimes accompany this note. Here it's blended with ylang ylang & tuberose, while papyrus lends a crispness to the mix, preventing it from becoming overly sweet or heady. Over the first two hours, the leather fades, leaving a deliciously buttery white & yellow floral accord. Five hours in, there's a mineral note that reminds me of Goutal's Un Matin d'Orage. I've smelled this in a few other fragrances as well, & I've yet to figure out what it is, but I like it! I don't get anything remotely animalic in the base, just smooth, creamy sandalwood. The projection is good, & it all lasts around seven hours before fading.
From the notes list, I expected something a little filthier than this. But no matter; it's a very elegant & beautiful tropical floral leather that makes its presence felt to just the right degree, without ever becoming cloying. Very nicely done.
05th December, 2018

Nu Eau de Toilette by Yves Saint Laurent

This goes on rather herbal & peppery, with top notes of bergamot & coriander, & a slightly "turned" aspect, possibly due to the age of the sample. It quickly turns very soft & powdery, & I agree with another reviewer who compared it to Parfum Sacre. Thirty minutes in, the orchid note comes through, & after ninety minutes this is joined by a sweetish incense. Four hours in, the base is soft, powdery incense & warm, ambery woods, wearing very close to the skin. Six hours in it's almost completely faded out.
From what I've read, this one is smoother & more "feminine" than the EDP, with the incense & pepper toned down. I've been unable to find a sample of the EDP anywhere, but I think I might prefer it. I like the EDT, but it's just a little too subtle & short-lived for my taste.
05th December, 2018

Armani Privé Rouge Malachite by Giorgio Armani

Most of the reviews mention a dominant tuberose here, but I don't get that at all. What I do get is a classically ambery floriental similar in style to YSL's Cinema, but like their Supreme Bouquet, this is strikingly similar to Alien Essence Absolue. Once I make this association, I don't notice anything except the same blend of heliotrope, jasmine & amber. Three hours in this accord fades close to the skin, but there are still traces after thirteen hours, & I get the odd whiff of soapy laundry musk many hours later.
This simply makes me realise what a great fragrance Essence Absolue is, & that there's no need to go chasing after very expensive fragrances that smell pretty much the same.
05th December, 2018

Armani Privé Vert Malachite by Giorgio Armani

I get just a hint of citrus in the opening before a big, buttery white floral accord emerges. For me this is dominated by a rubbery tuberose, & underpinned by a kind of mineral note reminiscent of the one in Goutal's Un Matin d'Orage. The fragrance quickly sweetens, & a little later I'm reminded of Madonna's Truth or Dare, another (much cheaper!) sweetened-up white floral. I'm not sure why this is labelled "Vert" as it's not particularly green to my nose. It fades in linear fashion, leaving a nice trail of sillage as I move around, & six hours in there's a soft, sweet, milky base full of lactones.
I enjoyed this one, but this is another of those occasions when I'm relieved to find that there are less expensive perfumes available that do the same job just as well.
05th December, 2018

Supreme Bouquet by Yves Saint Laurent

This opens as a big, sweet, heady, tropical white floral with powerful projection. It's mostly ylang ylang, supported by tuberose, jasmine & a hint of coconut. All notes that I adore, & at this stage the name seems wholly appropriate. Thirty minutes in, however, it changes, becoming a deadringer for Alien Essence Absolue, another of Ropion's creations, & one that I've already owned & loved. It's got that same almondy, marzipan-like combo of heliotrope & amber. Steadily the florals recede, & three hours in the marzipan accord has taken over completely. Six hours in it's faded to a soft skin scent.
I was wowed by the opening, but I must admit to being rather relieved that it turned out so similar so something that is already familiar, & costs a lot less. If you like the sound of this one, I'd say save your money & try Essence Absolue instead.
05th December, 2018

OSA by Note di Profumum

Lovers of ylang ylang take note, because this one is a real beauty. It does for ylang what Carnal Flower did for tuberose: sets it in a starring role, shining brightly in a constellation of notes that support it without ever detracting from it. For the first thirty minutes, the lemongrass adds a spicy citrus edge, before stepping aside to reveal a really beautiful ylang with the same "florist's fridge" feel that Carnal Flower is so famous for. It's like being adorned with fresh, living petals that have a coolness to them; they never become cloying or overwhelming even on a hot, humid day. Eight hours in, the flowers are joined by a vaguely earthy, mineral note like wet stones, & thirteen hours in the scent is only just beginning to fade.
I'm giving this one five stars, because not only does it smell amazing, but it projects & lasts like a dream. Highly recommended!
05th December, 2018

Sunny Side Up by Juliette Has a Gun

This goes on very much like Bronze Goddess: a blast of cedar with a fresh, slightly citrussy aspect. Over the first twenty minutes it becomes smoother, warmer, more of a buttery-creamy sandalwood. At this point it reminds me of House of Matriarch's Coco Blanc. A little further in I smell something rubber-like, until around the three-hour mark it's dried down to a soft coconut with vanilla & sun-warmed skin. After five hours the projection is very low, but there are still traces after nine hours.
I would recommend this to any lovers of Coco Blanc looking for a cheaper alternative, although you might need to douse yourself in it to get the same effect.
05th December, 2018
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Forbidden by House of Matriarch

I get a fleeting impression of earthy florals in the opening, swiftly overtaken by the woody patchouli accord that seems to be ubiquitous in this house's perfumes. In this one it seems more subdued though, & there's a hint of menthol or camphor here, too. Thirty minutes in, it settles into a crisp, dry white floral with green, woody & slightly animalic aspects. I have difficulty picking out the tuberose from among the other notes. After ninety minutes, it's warmer & earthier with oakmoss & amber, & later there's a touch of green leaves in the base. Five hours in it's very soft, & nine hours in it's barely there.
I don't dislike this, but it doesn't really appeal to my tastes, either. It probably would appeal to fans of floral woody chypres, & I see it has inspired some tremendous reviews here.
13th June, 2018

Toukka Ta Tao by House of Matriarch

This opens with a brief whiff of cedar, before the "house signature" patchouli-creosote accord takes over. This is underpinned by something green & vegetal, perhaps the listed kava kava, a root whose name apparently means "bitter". This lasts around thirty minutes before morphing into a beachy floral with tropical fruits & coconut milk. The listed fruit notes are lychee, mango & lilikoi (another name for yellow passion fruit), but two hours in as the woods recede & the ylang-ylang becomes more prominent, what I get here is a banana daquiri. Five hours in, the base is an more ambery, oriental, sandalwood accord, with maybe a hint of oud. Projection is on the low side, & it all fades out after around nine hours.
I've rarely experienced a perfume that changes so dramatically between the opening phase & the drydown. It's like two completely different fragrances; one dark, woody & green, the other sweet, fruity & tropical. It's strange & perplexing, & I'm not sure if I enjoy either phase, but it's certainly an interesting ride.
13th June, 2018

L'Arrivée by House of Matriarch

In the opening I get a strong impression of woody patchouli, which seems to be a signature accord for this house. Within five minutes, however, it gives way to an indolic jasmine underpinned with woods. Twenty minutes in, it smells very similar to the honeyed, ambery jasmine of Moon Breath by Ayala Moriel, one that I already own & love. From here it doesn't progress much, apart from a slightly animalic note in the base. But it projects well, & lasts a good fourteen hours before fading.
I've only tried a handful from this house, but this is my favourite so far. A purchase would seem unnecessary though, as I already have Moon Breath.
13th June, 2018

Coco Blanc by House of Matriarch

This one goes on with a fleeting impression of sweetness that's quickly overwhelmed by massoia wood spiced with cumin. I also smell patchouli here, but only for the first ten minutes. After this, it settles into thick, buttery sandalwood, but retains that element of spice. From here it slowly dries down to a nutty base, very soft after the five hour mark, but still there eight hours in.
I expected more coconut/white chocolate/vanilla here, but I don't really detect them. As other reviewers have stated, this is not a sweet, yummy gourmand, but something more grown-up & complex. I'd prefer it to project more strongly, but I'll have to try dousing myself with it to see if that makes a difference.
13th June, 2018

Woo by House of Matriarch

In the opening phase I get a kind of woodsy-patchouli-creosote accord, with an impression of creamy tropical florals beneath. As it develops over the first hour, there is a sun-warmed skin vibe, the leather note becomes more pronounced, & the florals more indolic. The projection is low to moderate, but it gives off nice little wafts of fragrance as I move. After three hours it's more of a skin scent, & there's a soft, smooth tobacco subtly laced with sweet vanilla in the base. Nine hours in there are still traces of it on my skin.
This one reminds me a little of Suntanglam by SP Parfums, which I already own & love, although the projection & longevity aren't as impressive. I guess that's the drawback with something classed as "all natural". I would class it as a leathery, animalic, tropical floral, & as it has very little sweetness, I'd say it could easily be worn by either gender. It wasn't quite what I expected, but I did find myself compulsively sniffing my arm, for the first few hours at least.
13th June, 2018

Fig-Tea by Nicolaï

I only get a very fleeting burst of actual fig, before it's overtaken by the woody, faintly tobacco-like note of davana blossom, & an osmanthus that smells more like peaches than the usual apricot. I'm not sure what mate smells like, but this perfume could be said to resemble a fruit tea. The lemony-herbal note of coriander drifts in & out, before it all begins to turn milky, with the slight crispness of fig leaves. At around the ninety minute mark, the milky accord begins to dominate, & sniffing up close I detect a little dessicated coconut. From here it simply fades, & is barely detectable after five hours.
Anyone looking for a fig-dominant scent will probably be disappointed with this one, but for me it makes a suitably light, fresh & inoffensive summer work scent, easily wearable by either gender. You just need to carry some with you so you can reapply.
13th June, 2018

Au Delà Narcisse by Bruno Fazzolari

A crisp & bittersweet blend of crushed green leaves, earthy oakmoss & animalic florals make this a rich, full-bodied & retro-style chypre. An hour in, I smell iris & mimosa rather than narcissus. After around three hours it fades closer to the skin, & six hours in there's a soft base of oakmoss & amber. Eight hours in it's a skin scent.
I'm not usually a huge fan of oakmoss, but the skillful blending with the rich florals here won me over. It's really quite stunning, & if you love vintage chypres, you have to try this.
13th June, 2018

Zephyr by Neil Morris Fragrances

This opens fresh & zesty with citrus rind, & quickly settles into a sweeter fruity accord. There's an edge of "fresh masculine cologne" here, & I don't really get the floral notes, apart from perhaps some lily, so I'd say this one is easily unisex. After a couple of hours it's very soft, & six hours in it's faded to a skin scent of oceanic musk. It's probably the least long-lasting one that I've tried from this house.
It might make a refreshing pick-me-up on a hot day, but for me this is nothing terribly special. I definitely seem to have a preference for Neil's "darker" fragrances.
13th June, 2018

Clear by Neil Morris Fragrances

This opens like a summer morning, with refreshing linden blossom & juicy grapefruit. There's only a tiny, fleeting impression of the bitterness that I sometimes get from grapefruit in fragrances. After thirty minutes, it becomes sweeter & more dominated by fruity notes, with faintly floral undertones. I don't get the mint at all. Seven hours in, there's a clean laundry musk in the base, which hangs around on my clothing for days afterwards. On skin, it's still going softly after fourteen hours.
The overall feel of this is like sitting outside on a midsummer morning sipping fruit juice, while your freshly-washed linen dries on the line in the breeze. I'm not generally a fan of very fruity fragrances, but if you are, you could do worse than this bright & cheerful little number.
13th June, 2018

Aegean by Neil Morris Fragrances

This is a fresh, herbal citrus-aromatic, with mandarin, basil & lavender dominating for the first couple of hours. It leans quite masculine, but thankfully does not resemble a mainstream "sport cologne" or a household cleaning product. The projection is good, but not overwhelming. Neil himself admits that he's never been to Greece; speaking as someone who has been there many times, I can say that this is only a very rough approximation of the scent of the maquis, & I don't get anything evocative of the sea here. After the first hour, it turns more resinous & sweet, with the addition of benzoin, & later a touch of neroli. From here it gives off a golden-brown warmth, slowly fading over the course of around nine hours.
This one leans a little too far to the masculine side for my taste, but I recommend trying it if you enjoy a traditional "barber shop"-style scent.
13th June, 2018

Asea by Neil Morris Fragrances

This one isn't listed on Neil's website, & I can't find a notes list anywhere, but I did read somewhere that it was created to evoke the feel of an ocean cruise.
It's a strong citrus-aquatic, with lemon, marine notes, & perhaps some lavender deep in the mix. It's sharp, bracing, & to my nose very reminiscent of a masculine sport/fougere scent. It has massive projection, but no real development, except for some neroli deep in the base. It calms down three hours in, but lasts a good thirteen hours.
This isn't something I'd want to wear, but I gave my sample to my partner, who says it reminds him of L'Eau d'Issey. It must be the calone!
13th June, 2018

She Belongs There by Olivine Atelier

Oil version:

The first hour is dominated by a bright pikake jasmine, joined after this by a hint of woody sweetness. Three hours in, it all smooths out into a soft, creamy tiare with coconut. At this point it's a classically beachy scent, evocative of suntan lotion & hot skin. The projection is moderate, & it's still going softly twelve hours in.
As a lover of beachy scents, I find this one pleasant but not unique, & there are others that I've loved much more. I wouldn't mind trying the EDP version, though.
13th June, 2018

Olivine by Olivine Atelier

Oil version:

My first impression here is of the fresh, green floral, melon-like note of pikake jasmine (Hawaiian sambac). But within five minutes this is joined by a rather lovely, creamy gardenia, blooming on my skin like a warm breeze from the tropics. There's no mushroom or blue cheese here, just a clean & very feminine version of this beautiful flower. Slowly the pikake recedes, until three hours in the gardenia remains, underpinned by a soft vanilla sweetness. I don't get the listed musk note at all. It projects reasonably well for an oil, beginning to fade around six hours in.
As true gardenia perfumes go, I think Dame Perfumery's Soliflore Gardenia has the edge over this one, but even so, this is one of the better ones that I've tried.
13th June, 2018

Gigi by Olivine Atelier

Oil version:

I mostly get pear in the opening, supported by warm, soft, creamy florals, more ylang than gardenia. Over the first hour, the fruit fades, leaving a very sweet, almost sickly vanilla-floral. Another hour later, the green tea comes forward, adding a crispness that balances the sweetness nicely. Four hours in, the base is a milky sandalwood with vanilla. As you might expect from an oil, the projection is very soft, but it's still going faintly nine hours in.
This is a little too fruity for my taste, but if sweet, fruity florals are your thing, this would be a pleasant pick for spring or summer.
13th June, 2018

Pistachio Ice Cream by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is a deliciously nutty & completely natural-smelling pistachio, with a dash of almonds or marzipan. There is, however, none of the cool, creamy vanilla that one might expect from an "ice cream". There's no discernible development, but it lasts well, slowly fading over the course of around eight hours.
Recommended if you crave authentic nutty scents, & perfect for layering.
13th June, 2018

Coconut by Demeter Fragrance Library

The bottle I have is labelled "Fresh Coconut", so I'm not sure if this is the same fragrance, but I'll post this here anyway.
A sweet, artificial-smelling coconut in the style of a Bounty bar, this has surprisingly strong projection for the first hour. After this, I detect a more woody aspect, & it slowly settles to a soft, milky base over around four hours. Seven hours in, it's almost gone.
As with most of the Demeter line, this isn't a fully-formed perfume as such, but it is a pleasant hit of the tropics, & I think it would work well for layering with other tropical fragrances.
13th June, 2018

Rose Jam by Gorilla Perfume

Just like the cult limited edition shower gel of the same name, this does exactly what it says on the tin. It's a thick, sweet, jammy, rose & lemon Turkish Delight of a fragrance. It goes on more like an EDP than a body spray, with a powerful projection & sillage. Geraniol adds a greenish edge to cut through the sweetness, & sniffed up close there's a slightly "turned" aspect. It reminds me of Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose, without the woody-ambery base. Two hours in, it's less fierce; more of a soft, sweet & gentle jammy rose, & later I get the feel of the powdery coating of those little cubes of loukhoum. Seven hours in, it's faded close to the skin, but is still going after fourteen hours.
I'd advise anyone interested in this one not to be fooled by the "body spray" label; it's actually a real heavy hitter, & needs a light hand on the trigger. Lovers of traditional rose fragrances might find it too sweet, but if you love Turkish Delight, you'll adore this.
13th June, 2018