Perfume Reviews

Reviews by teardrop

Total Reviews: 680

Community by The Zoo

A sharp, green, bracing citrus with a note of "snapped stems" & metallic vetiver. It reminds me very much of Tauer's Carillon pour un Ange, which I thought was stupendous, but ultimately was not something I could wear. This one lacks the floral & earthy drydown of the Tauer, but I see they both list lily of the valley as a note. Like others here, I also get a strong note of melon. I don't really detect much development; it just seems to slowly fade, until five hours in it's quite soft & more agreeable. After seven hours I get a trace of a pine-like note, but at this stage it's very close to the skin.
This one is too sharp & green for my taste, but certainly more unisex than the ultra-masculine Louis, which isn't in the Directory yet.
04th December, 2019

Club Design by The Zoo

The leather is immediately obvious, along with a vague fruity note. From across the room, Mr teardrop remarks that it smells like Cif lemon cleaning liquid, & I kind of get that. Clearly no problem with the sillage! The fuzzy floral note of mimosa quickly appears, & the fragrance begins to veer back & forth between powdery, musky florals & an accord of plastic, rubber, engine oil & perhaps WD40. Five hours in, it's all settled into a base of woods along with a metallic note, still with a faint hum of leather. It's still going strong after eight hours when I go for a shower, & several days later I can still clearly smell it on the sleeve of my robe. Apparently it's marketed as a "garment perfume", so that works.
I can see the associations with that "new car" smell that others have commented on; a smell that has always made me nauseous since childhood. Hence my ambivalent reaction to this one: by turns I strongly dislike it, & then something about it intrigues me into thinking hey, I smell pretty good. It's probably not something I'd reach for, but it's certainly interesting & unique.
04th December, 2019

Black Flower Mexican Vanilla by Dame Perfumery

This is a deep, rich & spicy vanilla, oriental in tone rather than cupcake-sweet. I don't get the citrus notes, except for a slightly bitter tang in the opening, & I don't get the florals. What I do get is a satisfying nutmeg & tonka blend that continues right through the drydown. It's fairly linear, settling close to the skin after six hours, but lasting over twelve.
This feels like top-quality stuff, & there are echoes here of the "Guerlinade" in classics like Shalimar. If you prefer your vanillas blended with other notes to give them interest, as I do, rather than smelling like a straight-up vanilla extract, then surely this one is a must-try.
04th December, 2019
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Santal du Pacifique Eau de Parfum by Perris Monte Carlo

The Luckyscent website gives a more comprehensive notes list for this one: carrot, orchid, violet, gurjun balsam (which apparently has aspects of pine, patchouli & camphor), Pacific sandalwood, dry woods, cashmere woods & musk.

This opens as a delightfully sweet-yet-salty, woody floral. I don't get carrot, but perhaps iris, along with sweet violet. The orchid note quickly amps up the tropical warmth, humidity & creaminess of a lovely sandalwood, which projects beautifully. After a couple of hours, the creaminess dies down & the drier woody notes intensify. It all lasts a good eleven hours before fading.
For me this is a top-notch sandalwood, with all the aspects that I most enjoy. Recommended, & possibly bottle-worthy...
04th December, 2019

Santal Nabataea by Mona di Orio

This has a fruity opening, with something akin to fig, although I see it's listed as "dried apricot". There's a hint of peppery woods, & then I can clearly smell a stone-like, mineral note, even before I read that "sandstone" is among the listed notes! One note that's not listed is vetiver, which I swear I smell here, & which quickly overpowers everything else. It doesn't begin to recede until around three hours in, & then slowly the creamy sandalwood begins to shine, sweetened by coffee in the base. The fragrance doesn't project so much as float just above the skin, & eight hours in it's almost gone.
Apparently this fragrance was inspired by Petra, the "rose red city" & capital of the ancient desert kingdom of Nabataea. For me it doesn't conjure the shades of pink, gold & apricot that one might expect; instead that vetiver-like note gives it a greenish-brown hue. It's also not a favourite note of mine, & it overshadows the sandalwood too much for me to love this one.
04th December, 2019

Fate Woman by Amouage

While l can clearly smell narcissus on opening the vial, on skin I get a sour bergamot in the opening, & little else. I'm dabbing here though, & of course this impression might be different when spraying. Slowly a spicy floral accord emerges, with a leathery undertone. Half an hour in, this settles into a softer, more powdery floral with a subtle note of incense, but retains that sour aspect. After an hour the sourness disappears, & finally it's a smooth, warm & pleasant oriental with hints of animalic castoreum & smoky labdanum. It's already quiet at this stage, & fades to a trace of vanilla twelve hours in.
I expected to be wowed by this, but I'm not. It's not as pwerful as I thought it would be, & although the drydown is lovely, there are many other floral orientals that I enjoy much more, for a fraction of the price.
04th December, 2019

Tocade by Rochas

Yes, this is a classically floriental fragrance dominated by ambery vanilla & rose, but there's a herbal edge here for much of the duration. Perhaps this is due to the geranium note, while the other listed floral notes are indistinguishable to me. The projection is much lower than I expected, but I did try it on a cold day, & I suspect it would bloom much more in the heat. After just two hours though, it's faded to a soft, powdery, slightly smoky amber, with a touch of musk & woods later on. Six hours in it's barely there.
I like this, but don't love it like I thought I would. Maybe I need to wait for warmer weather & douse myself with it.
04th December, 2019

Castaña by Cloon Keen Atelier

This is a smooth, rounded, nutty fougere with hints of pepper, milky coffee & lots of tonka. In the heart it becomes more of a powdery oriental, putting me in mind of perfumes like Miller Harris's Fleur Oriental. It makes its comforting presence felt without projecting too loudly, & works nicely on an autumn day. Three hours in I detect a little vetiver, then a "doughy" accord of ambergris/oakmoss, & later on a touch of smoke. It all fades out around ten hours in.
If I have any complaint here, it's just that I wish the chestnut note was much more obvious, but otherwise this is a very likeable scent, & easily unisex.
04th December, 2019

Jasmins Marzipane by Lancôme

This opens with a jasmine that contains a large dose of inky indole, swiftly joined by a sweet almond note. Over the first fifteen minutes, the jasmine calms down, & the overall effect is woodier & nuttier. At this point it's almost a dupe of Givenchy's Organza. Another reviewer compared this to Tom Ford's Jasmin Rouge, which also reminded me of Organza, so I can see I'm not alone in making this kind of comparison. Three hours in it's creamier & much softer, with a hint of fruit, rather like tinned pears. I don't really get the vanilla, & five hours in it settles very close to the skin.
A pleasant & wearable fragrance, but I'd recommend Organza over this in terms of performance & value for money - "more bang for your buck", as they say.
04th December, 2019

Fleur de Lalita by Parfums Dusita

A fresh white floral fragrance, mostly tuberose & jasmine, with a touch of green in the opening rather like sweet violets. This has a moist, humid & tropical feel, & it reminds me of something else, perhaps Montale's Jasmin Full, where I think the quality of the jasmine is very similar. There's a rubbery lily for a little while too, & then one hour in it's more smooth & creamy. It takes four hours before I detect the vanilla & tonka, but the flowers are very much still there, developing a kind of crispness later on, & fading out around six hours in. It's all quite soft & dreamy, not at all shrill or cloying, but then I am dabbing from a vial here. It's quite possible that the projection would be huge when spraying this.
All in all a rather beautiful fragrance, & I'd say it's a white floral lover's dream. Recommended!
04th December, 2019

Angélique Encens by Creed

For me the first ten minutes are piercingly sharp. The impression is of aldehydes, but perhaps it's the angelica. I've only ever smelled the candied variety used for cake decoration, so I couldn't say for sure. After this, it settles into a more pleasantly earthy, herbal thing with a vanilla sweetness running through it. There's a white floral accord here, mostly tuberose, & a powdery incense. One hour in, there's a salty, savoury ambergris, & another hour later, the base is a sweet, woody, powdery amber. The projection is moderate after that opening salvo, & it all fades out around seven hours in.
This has a retro style, yet at the same time the vanilla adds a touch of modernity, & there's none of the "turned" feel that I sometimes get from vintage-style fragrances. The herbal notes give it a coldness, & yet there's a warmth to it, especially in the drydown. These contrasts certainly make it an interesting fragrance, & aside from the opening, I rather enjoyed this one.
04th December, 2019

Scent of Oger by Creed

The opening is a bracing, refreshing blast of citrus, Juicy Fruit gum & young, green leaves, dying down swiftly into a more sour/bitter accord. This accord reminds me somewhat of disinfectant, perhaps Dettol, or TCP if anyone remembers that. Over the next three hours there's a herbal note, then some moss and/or vetiver, before it all softens into an unexpectedly sweet-spicy base, fading out around seven hours in.
This isn't my kind of fragrance, but I enjoyed that opening blast, & there are some interesting contrasts here to keep it from being just another citrussy summer cologne.
04th December, 2019

40 Rogue by Rogue Perfumery

I get a lightly aldehydic opening with a brief whiff of fruit, herbs (mainly tarragon) & a pronounced note of menthol. This is supported by floral notes of carnation & narcissus, & an animalic note wafting up from the base. Over the first hour the menthol slowly dies down, before a sweet, powdery heliotrope comes into play, followed by moss. Four hours in, it's warm, sweet, mossy & ambery, but retains that menthol-like freshness when sniffed up close. At this point, the already moderate projection has receded quite close to the skin. Later there's a little vetiver, & there are still traces on my skin after twelve hours.
I haven't tried the original 40 Love fragrance on which this is based, so I can't comment on any similarities. It's rather too retro in style for my personal taste, but it is an interesting mix of clean & dirty notes.
04th December, 2019
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Flos Mortis by Rogue Perfumery

This is sweeter & far less challengingly morbid than I was led to expect by other reviews that I've read. For me it's a gently indolic jasmine with a minty edge, & to begin with I have to inhale deeply to get the leather & mothball effect. I don't read it as tuberose either, & I see that tuberose isn't even listed among the notes here in the Directory. The redcurrant isn't obvious, but seems to lend a fruity sweetness to the mix. Five minutes in, the mothball accord strengthens, & dominates for the next two hours before receding. After this, osmanthus adds another, more creamy note of fruitiness, still going softly seven hours in.
Disconcertingly, the remnant of this that remains on the sleeve of my robe the next morning has an insidious, sickly sweetness that puts me in mind of rotting teeth. Perhaps that's where the "morbidity" comes in, but other than that, I'm left wondering what all the fuss is about. There is a vaguely gothic feel to this, & I'm sure anyone who enjoys Tubereuse Criminelle would love it, but it's far too sweet for me, & there's nothing morbid about the pretty coral pink colour of that juice!
04th December, 2019

Terra Mia by Carthusia

This kicks off with orange blossom laid over a gourmandish bed of coffee, vanilla & hazelnut, a combination that smells far better than it might look on paper. The coffee is a dark, roasted, nutty blend that quickly takes over, with a little added touch of spice from the pink pepper. Ninety minutes in, this is joined by an impression of creamy white flowers & woods, & from here it sweetens as it dries down. It all lasts a good twelve hours before fading out.
There's an enjoyably earthy, autumnal vibe to this one which makes it feel to me like a good choice for the cooler months. I'd recommend it to anyone who enjoys gourmands, especially coffee fragrances.
04th December, 2019

Carthusia Uomo by Carthusia

This opens with citrus, an aquatic note, & sandalwood lightly spiced with cumin. It doesn't whack you over the head with that traditionally masculine aftershave vibe, instead it has an air of understated elegance about it. Over the first half-hour, a herbal accord comes into play, reading as lavender or rosemary to my nose, followed by a smooth white musk. The floral notes aren't obvious, but are there in the background rounding it out. Other reviewers mention raspberry & seaweed, but I don't get those at all. Four hours in, the base is warm & spicy with amber & patchouli, & just a trace of oakmoss. The projection is low to moderate, & it all fades around seven hours in.
This is rather too far on the masculine side for me to wear myself, but I can see it being very attractive on a classy, well-dressed man who doesn't need a loud, in-your-face fragrance to announce his presence.
02nd August, 2019

Fiori di Capri by Carthusia

Aldehydes in the opening give this a very vintage feel, but there's also a lot of white musk & perhaps some iris, giving a very smooth impression of "whiteness" here. This whiteness kind of sticks in the throat, as if I'd just attempted to eat a bar of soap. After a few minutes, a sweetish floral accord begins to take over. It's hard to pick out notes, but this doesn't read as carnation to me so much as tuberose & ylang ylang. Two hours in, it's a creamy-smooth white floral with a tropical touch of coconut lending it a beachy vibe. It lasts around six hours before fading.
Others have compared this to Givenchy's Ysatis, which sadly I have never smelled, so I can't comment on any similarities. I quite enjoyed the drydown, but that opening is not really to my taste.
02nd August, 2019

Gelsomini di Capri by Carthusia

In the initial phase I get ginger & pink pepper, laid over a light & fresh jasmine. The citrus notes aren't obvious, but this is a dabber vial, & they may come over more strongly when spraying. These notes are soon joined by soft woods & vanilla. Forty minutes in, it's already fading - "deflating like a balloon" as another reviewer aptly puts it - & a creamy note comes into play. One hour in it's a warm, creamy, lightly spiced floral that puts me in mind of Givenchy's Organza. From here it continues to fade, leaving just a trace seven hours in.
This is a pleasant floriental, but for me the performance is poor, & it's certainly not different or special enough to warrant the price of a bottle.
02nd August, 2019

Mediterraneo by Carthusia

I can pretty much sum this one up in three words: fresh lemon tea. Over the first half-hour the lemon goes from fresh to candied to bitter & back again, but is never overly sharp or Pledge-like. An hour in, the lemon is joined by a tea note with a sprig of mint, but the lemon remains for the duration. It's quite soft at the six-hour mark, but there are still traces on my skin after ten hours.
The card that came with this sample lists a number of notes in addition to the lemon & green tea listed here on basenotes: wild mint, eucalyptus, litsea, red thyme, bergamot, jasmine, cardamom, wild flowers, tangerine & white musk. Aside from the mint & perhaps some bergamot, I don't get any of these here.
This is a perfectly refreshing pick-me-up for a hot day, but it's a very simple scent, & at this price point I'd expect something more interesting. I'd pick Tom Daxon's Laconia over this for my lemon fix.
02nd August, 2019

Fleur Narcotique by Ex Nihilo

This opens fresh, fruity, crisp & cologne-like with lychee, & a bergamot stripped of its usual bitter edges. A few minutes in, creamy orange blossom & white musk take over, & twelve hours later this hasn't changed. I continue to get wafts of a pleasantly clean & soapy floral for the duration. I'm not sure what peony smells like, so I can't say that I smell it here.
Darvant describes this one as "melancholy", but I don't get that at all. There's nothing "narcotic" about it, either. For me it conveys a feeling of cheerful innocence, & I can wear it at work without offending anyone. The performance is impressive, although some may find its lack of development boring, & for the price they're charging, it's rather unremarkable. I already have some orange blossom fragrances in my arsenal that I adore far more.
02nd August, 2019

I Am Trash : Les Fleurs du Déchet by Etat Libre d'Orange

In the opening I get cedar & tart fruit, more citrus than strawberry to my nose, followed in short order by a jammy rose. And suddenly it smells exactly like Black XS pour Homme circa 2006! A scent that sure brings back some memories for me. The same woody fruitchouli vibe is there, & on looking up "akigala wood" online, I find that it's fractionated from patchouli oil, which explains what I'm smelling. Within half an hour, the fruit fades, & a pepper note adds a more savoury nuance. Three hours in, it's all soft, smooth woods with a hint of apple, fading out completely at the six-hour mark.
This is by no means an unpleasant scent, & contrary to what the name implies, I don't get any rotten fruit or suggestion of decay from it. It's definitely nothing new or special though, even if it did take me back to a special time & a special person in my life...
27th June, 2019

Lace by Sarah Baker Perfumes

Contrary to what the name might suggest, this is not a "sexy night out" fragrance, but a soft, beachy skin scent with white musk, coconut, vanilla & calone. For the first hour, it comes over as rather thin & flat, with a kind of staleness, almost as if it's gone off. After this, however, it becomes warmer, sweeter, milkier, & more satisfying. At this point it puts me in mind of a quieter version of Ensoleille Moi by Andre Gas, one that I already own & love. Seven hours in, there's been no further development & it wears very close to the skin.
This one is ok to me, but cannot come close to rivalling Ensoleille Moi, which is a far superior version of the same idea.
27th June, 2019

Golden Paradise by Hawaiian Tropic

Out of the collection of fragrances in this line, this is supposed to be the closest to the signature scent of their sun protection products, a scent I've loved for many, many years. To begin with, I get pineapple, coconut & warm sand. Within five minutes, the fruity note fades & it's more of a milky coconut, with the supporting notes of musk, sandalwood & amber giving it some backbone. I don't detect the floral notes of jasmine & freesia at all. I applied some of the suntan lotion to my other arm for comparison, & find that where the lotion is more light & fruity, the fragrance mist has more of an oriental, ambery feel. One hour in, the similarities align more closely, but at this stage the fragrance is very soft. After three hours it's almost disappeared, but it can still be revived by breathing onto the skin where I applied it.
This doesn't score highly on performance - it is just a body spray, after all - but it's a cheap & cheerful mood lifter. I'd happily spray this with abandon whenever I wish to simulate the feeling of lying on the beach in the sun, when I can't be there for real, or to enhance the scent of a less exotic sun protection product. Either way, it's a fun, youthful fragrance that puts a smile on my face.
27th June, 2019

Jardin de Kérylos 16 by Parfumerie Generale

A cool, crisp & refreshing fig, much less creamy-lactonic than either Philosykos or Premier Figuier, but more leafy & woody, the fruit still unripe on the tree. It feels thinner & flatter to me because of this. I don't smell the peach, but perhaps some tuberose in the background after twenty minutes or so. Aside from that, I sense no progression at all, the projection is low, & after seven hours it's faded out altogether.
Maybe this one needs some real summer heat to make it bloom, but I have to confess that it left me a little cold. I don't hate it, but for me it doesn't come anywhere close to the glorious celebration of the fig that is Philosykos.
27th June, 2019

Eau de Nyonya by Auphorie

Toasted rice, coconut, a hint of chocolate, something green which must be the Pandan leaf, sweet violet & benzoin are the introduction to this gorgeous gourmand-oriental. It's deliciously edible without being overly sweet, with a fuzzy & suede-like texture. The violet becomes more pronounced over the first half-hour, & there's an almond/cherry/heliotrope facet suggesting distant echoes of vintage L'Heure Bleue. The texture smooths out from here, then ninety minutes in there's a buttery iris. Another hour in, I get a note of condensed milk, & at the four-hour mark there's a rich, creamy sandalwood. At this point it settles closer to the skin, but it all lasts for a good fourteen hours before fading out.
I've never been to the Far East, but this perfume smells exactly how I imagine sitting in a humid tropical garden eating a Malaysian dessert would smell. It's an extraordinarily complex assembly of notes that somehow work together, vintage-smelling yet modern & unique, exquisitely balanced & addictive. I can't really put it better than gimmegreen's beautifully descriptive review, but if you love a good gourmand with a grown-up feel, I urge you to try this before it's gone. Auphorie are known for discontinuing their fragrances before we all get a chance to try them; I know this to my cost, because I missed out on trying Mayura.
27th June, 2019

Morah by Pryn Parfum

In the opening I get aldehydes, underpinned by creamy, spicy woods & something animalic. The listed notes of black pepper, sandalwood & civet would account for this impression. Over the first hour, as the aldehydes fade, I get an ashy, leathery note suggestive of birch tar, which is not listed, followed by an accord very much like pencil savings, then cumin & oakmoss. The floral notes here are not obvious at all, except for a fleeting whiff of an incense-like champaca. The projection is low, & seven hours in it's faded to a very soft animalic base with just the ghost of a creamy white flower.
I find this to be a pleasant unisex fragrance that might work well for me in autumn. However I'm giving it a neutral rating, because the listed notes of tuberose, gardenia & frangipani led me to expect an exotic & rich tropical floral, a genre that I adore. It's far less feminine than that though, & the low projection is somewhat disappointing.
27th June, 2019

Aubépine-Acacia by Creed

This has a bright, lemony top note, effervescent like sherbet, underlaid with green notes of galbanum & pine. After fifteen minutes, this settles into a green floral accord, mainly mimosa, with lightly powdery & leathery facets. There are no sharp edges or bitterness here, & although the projection is very low from this point, it's a pretty & rather agreeable spring floral. Nine hours in there's been no further progression, but it's still humming along softly.
I'm very familiar with the scent of hawthorn, or May blossom, as a lot of it grows in my neighbourhood & the places I grew up in. It's one of my favourite springtime smells, earthy & almost fecal in its animalic richness, & I doubt I'll ever find a perfume that reproduces it convincingly. There is a suggestion of it in the heart phase of Aubepine-Acacia, & it's pretty darn close, but it doesn't quite capture that scent for me. This is actually a relief though, both for my wallet & my sanity.
19th June, 2019

Verveine Narcisse by Creed

The opening is sharp, aldehydic & green, with galbanum & an impression of lily of the valley. I don't get verbena here so much as violet leaf, although there is a grassy note a few minutes in. A little later the narcissus comes through, with the emphasis on its aspects of leather & rain-soaked garden, rather than actual flowers. After the first hour, the base of moss & salty ambergris takes over, & at this point it settles very close to the skin. In the later drydown, there's a soapy sandalwood, followed by an incense-like note. It's still going softly fourteen hours in.
I expected something quite sunny & bright here, but this comes over as a rather serious & astringent perfume. It's not my kind of fragrance, but surely a great one if you love serious, green leathery florals.
19th June, 2019

Bayrhum-Vetiver by Creed

I looked up some info on traditional bayrum fragrances, & apparently they are made using the West Indian Pimenta racemosa, a species unrelated to the bay laurel, Laurus nobilis. I am familiar with bay laurel as I have one in my garden, & the opening of this fragrance smells exactly like the pungent, herbal scent given off by the cut leaves when I prune it. Either these unrelated species do in fact smell similar, or this fragrance actually utilises bay laurel, & not the West Indian variety. No matter though, because this impression is swiftly overwhelmed by a strong note of cloves, which continues to dominate for the next couple of hours. There's also something earthy, almost animalic in the mix, suggesting moss rather than vetiver. Once the cloves fade there's a soapy phase, & then finally four hours in I get a softly metallic vetiver in the base. Six hours in, it's still going as a skin scent.
This one is not for me, & I didn't expect it to be, as none of the notes are ones I enjoy smelling on my skin. But if you enjoy very traditional-style, mature masculine fragrances, it may very well be for you.
19th June, 2019

"Vintage" Tabaróme by Creed

I get just a hint of that "turned vintage masculine" vibe in the opening, before it's overwhelmed by what I'd swear is aldehydes. It's soapy, powdery, clean-smelling, dry & kind of "white" in tone. Ten minutes in, it all settles into smoky, peppery woods with a faint touch of bergamot. Sniffing up close, there's something vaguely mentholated, then half an hour late there's leather. Ninety minutes in, it all sweetens slightly, & at the same time there's a crisp, papyrus-like note running through it. After three hours, there's salty ambergris & moss, & later a metallic twang, which could be vetiver. There is a vaguely gingery note here too, if I search for it, but at this point it's become a skin scent. It's still going softly seven hours in.
I don't get tobacco here at all, & this isn't something I would wear, but I appreciate having had the chance to try it.
19th June, 2019