Perfume Reviews

Reviews by teardrop

Total Reviews: 680

Tabac Vert by Rogue Perfumery

This has a very "vintage masculine" & slightly "turned" feel. The opening is dominated by bergamot, followed by pepper & cedar, laid over a syrupy amber & giving rise to an immortelle-like note, although it isn't listed. Something petrochemical swiftly emerges, a little like turpentine. One hour in, all of these notes have faded, & a pronounced mossy note emerges, along with labdanum or ambergris. It all turns powdery at this point, & after two hours settles very close to the skin. I get just a trace of soapy sandalwood eight hours in as the fragrance fades out, but strangely, no tobacco at any point!
This has been compared to Creed's Vintage Tabarome, but although the two share some aspects, they don't smell all that similar to me. Thought of in terms of colour, this one is a yellowy green, whereas VT is more of a golden brown. What they do have in common, however, is a total absence of tobacco, at least on my skin. My preferred choice between the two would be VT, as the feel of this one is rather sombre, & it's definitely not my style.
19th June, 2019

Le Canotier by Rogue Perfumery

This opens with bitter citrus, & green notes of violet leaf & vetiver. I also get a smidge of a "turned" note, but not for long. The first hour is dominated for me by the vetiver, a note I don't enjoy in heavy concentrations, & reads to me as decidedly masculine. After this, the citrus fades away & the vetiver takes a smokier turn, before being joined by tobacco & a pronounced ambergris note. I don't get any florals here, but two hours into the drydown the smoke & salty ambergris combine to make things more enjoyable. Later on there's a metallic tang, & seven hours in, a faint sweetness just as it all fades out. The projection is good for most of its duration.
This one is not for me, but I think anyone who loves a smoky vetiver should try it.
19th June, 2019

Mousse Illuminée by Rogue Perfumery

This opens deep & green, with a mentholated freshness & herbal notes of rosemary & bay. Any white florals are blended deeply into the mix, but perhaps there's some jasmine here. I get a whole succession of other notes, though: wormwood, mint, leather, & a suggestion of pine without it smelling like a pine tree. There's a bitterness at this stage, but it's never harsh or unpleasant. After two hours, warm, peppery woods & a gorgeously smoky incense appear, followed by an earthy, loamy note, "like a forest floor" as others have described it. There's something akin to vetiver, & then tobacco. Seven hours in, the base is sweet tobacco smoke, woods, a clean, powdery musk & something fruity. The projection is powerful for the first couple of hours, & it's still humming along nicely after fourteen hours.
This doesn't actually smell like moss to me, & it definitely doesn't smell like weed. I've never smelled Polo Green so cannot make the comparison that others have, but there are echoes here of Memoir Man, perhaps because of the combination of wormwood & incense. Sheik Yerbouti's review describes the feeling of this one very well. It's not my usual style & I don't know when I'd ever wear it, but I find it completely compelling. It's beautifully constructed, complex, natural smelling & has great performance to boot. It's been a while since I smelled a perfume with so many notes, put together so skilfully that each one shone out without mixing themselves into a muddy mess. In short, it's a stunning example of the perfumer's art.
19th June, 2019
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Fougère L'Aube by Rogue Perfumery

This smells to me like a very traditional "masculine fougere", with a fresh, almost sharp opening of green citrus, galbanum & mint. It's clean, green & soapy, as others have noted. It's very radiant on my skin for the first couple of hours, then the citrus recedes a little & I get a herbal, leathery feel before the lavender comes through. I don't get rose or costus from this at all. Later on it warms up with a base of moss & spice, & six hours in as it's faded close to the skin, I could swear I smell coconut. The citrus is still detectable though, & it retains the element of freshness all the way through. There are still traces of this on my skin sixteen hours after application.
I've never smelled Green Irish Tweed, therefore I cannot make a comparison here as others have, but this one does remind me a little of Cacharel pour L'Homme, which my ex-husband wore back in the nineties. For that reason it's not something I could wear, but I think it is very well done, & lacks the harshness that many in this genre seem to convey. Nice work.
19th June, 2019

Chypre-Siam by Rogue Perfumery

I'm not generally a chypre lover & certainly not an expert, but this is exactly the kind of fragrance I think of when considering the classic vintage chypre style, & without the "turned" feel that I get from many of them. There's a juicy twist of lime up top, underpinned with a bittersweet blend dominated by oakmoss. There's a green spiciness & an almost leathery feel here, along with those creosote-like violet ionones. Inhaling it deeply from my arm adds a smooth sweetness to the mix, & as it develops I pick up on a note of apple, a "bready" note, something balsamic, & then an ambery base with a touch of apricot. The projection is moderate, slowly fading until five hours in it seems to disappear entirely.
This is very similar to the Body Shop Chypre oil which I owned in the eighties, & of which I still have a tiny decant. It's not really my current style but I think it's extremely well done, & surely a must-try for those who hanker after those non-IFRA compliant vintage chypres. And it's another that probably needs to be sprayed to improve the performance.
19th June, 2019

Derviche by Rogue Perfumery

For me this is primarily a sweet tobacco scent, very reminiscent of Dusita's Issara, with its sheer, fresh yet earthy, hay-like sweetness. There's a minty note up top, which, combined with the animalic notes of musk & civet beneath, reminds me of the construction of Kouros, being both fresh & dirty at the same time, although the overall scent is quite different. I get a touch of leather, & then the vanilla sweetness begins to build, until two hours in the tobacco has faded & the base is powdery amber with a hint of heliotrope. The projection is low on me, from the three hour mark it's very soft indeed, & five hours in it's pretty much gone.
I don't detect any floral notes here, & while there is a passing resemblance to Ambre Narguile, this one isn't quite as gourmand to my nose. It is my kind of oriental though, & definitely my favourite from this house, although I'd prefer greater projection & longevity. I think perhaps spraying would show it off to fuller advantage, but as I tried it as part of a sample pass, I didn't want to risk using up too much of the little dabber vial.
19th June, 2019

Champs Lunaires by Rogue Perfumery

For me the opening is strongly jasmine, not tuberose, accompanied for the first few minutes by a citrus note, & a greenish gardenia. Sniffed up close, there's a strangely sour, musty aspect to this which I find rather off-putting. The projection is powerful for the first ninety minutes, & then the mustiness finally fades leaving a creamy gardenia. From here the whole thing slowly softens, still drying down after ten hours. The sandalwood base is very faint, & there's a trace of coconut, although I don't find this to be a beachy fragrance.
Others have compared this to Fracas, but to my nose Fracas is much more buttery, & dominated by tuberose & orange blossom. The heart phase of this one does remind me of Estee Lauder's Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, dominated as it is by a very similar gardenia note. In fact, Champs Lunaires smells how PCTG would if it had been left out in bright sunlight for a few weeks. PCTG is rounder, smoother, more modern somehow, whereas CL has this musty, "turned" aspect that gives it more of a vintage feel. It's a rather serious fragrance, & although I enjoyed the gardenia once the mustiness faded away, that "turned" aspect is a deal breaker for me.
19th June, 2019

Mutiny by Martin Margiela

This opens with a juicy citrus accord, resolving itself into bitter orange, before creamy orange blossom & a fruity tuberose come through in full force. Later I get a coconutty amber in the base, but not the listed oud or vanilla. The projection is good, & it all lasts around eight hours before fading.

I find nothing "mutinous" about this, except that some may find it a little cloying or "perfumey". I'm giving it a thumbs up because it has a lot of notes that I personally enjoy, but I much prefer Ropion's other creation, And the World is Yours, for my orange blossom fix. It's more radiant without being cloying, & doesn't have the overly sweet & fruity aspect that this has.
24th April, 2019

Laconia by Tom Daxon

For anyone who doesn't know, Laconia is a peninsula of the Peloponnese in southern Greece, & it's also the origin of the word "laconic". It's a place where I've spent a bit of time, being right next to the Mani peninsula, which I consider to be my second home. There was no question that I had to try this fragrance!
It opens with a bright & sunny burst of citrus, mostly lemon, & there's a cool, leafy quality beneath, perhaps from the water mint or violet leaf notes. It's zesty, but not sharp or bracing, & there's a salty element here, but it's not the calone type of marine scent. It's actually very natural-smelling, as if I just rubbed lemon juice & sea salt into my skin. Over the first half-hour, the citrus recedes slightly but remains present, along with a whisper of jasmine, then vetiver. Two hours in, green cardamom warms it up, & from here there's a growing undercurrent of earthy, mossy, sun-warmed soil & sage brush. The projection is strong for the first few minutes, & remains moderate to good for most of its duration. Six hours in, the freshness of the opening phase is only just fading, & it all becomes a skin scent after eight hours.
This one is easily unisex, with a similar feel to Goutal's Eau du Sud. I shall enjoy using up this sample when summer arrives.
24th April, 2019

Greek Keys by Sarah Baker Perfumes

This opens as a bracing citrus, with grapefruit, lemon & mandarin clearly discernible, a hint of floral hedione, & a whole heap of calone to give it that ocean breeze vibe. Herbal notes of rosemary & elemi appear, & one hour in the citrus fades, leaving that fresh, salty, almost sharp ocean breeze scented with herbs. After two hours it loses the sharpness, & the vetiver & mossy woods show through. Six hours in, there's coumarin in the base to complete the fougere-like picture. The projection is enormous, it lasts through a shower, & there are still traces of this on my skin after twenty four hours.
This is bright, sunny & refreshing, much like a Greek shoreline, & it reminds me somewhat of Tommy Bahama's Set Sail St Barts for Women. It's most definitely unisex, possibly a little too far to the masculine side for me, but I think it would cut through heat & humidity perfectly. I'll try it again in the summer to see how I feel about it then.
24th April, 2019

Spring Jasmine by Shanghai Tang

This opens as a greenish jasmine with a touch of indole, along with a strong impression of what I perceive as lily of the valley. The projection is good, much better than most of the others in this line, until it all calms down & smooths out around two hours in. I don't sense much progression here, & I don't get the listed olibanum note at all. Four hours in it settles close to the skin, finally fading out after around ten hours.
To be honest this is nothing special, but it does what it says on the tin, & I can see myself enjoying it at work without offending anyone.
24th April, 2019

Rose Silk by Unknown

The opening smells only vaguely of rose, with a hint of red berries & a smooth white floral accord, supposedly magnolia. The "magnolia" quickly becomes dominant, drying down to laundry musk only two hours in, & after five hours it's barely there.
This one is the quietest that I tried from this line, & can best be described as flat, featureless & dull.
24th April, 2019

Orchid Bloom by Shanghai Tang

The top notes are listed as "red fruits", but I get a tart blackcurrant, with a sharpness that puts me in mind of those cheap men's sport scents from the seventies. This projects strongly (how typical for a note I detest!) for the first couple of hours, & then the fruit calms down, allowing the floral aspect to show itself. I don't know what a "velvet orchid" smells like, so I can't say how closely this resembles the real thing, but it comes over as a rather ordinary white flower accord. Four hours in it's much softer, & there's a laundry-type musk in the base, still going after fourteen hours.
This gets a thumbs down from me, not only because I dislike fruity florals, but also because it reeks of cheap synthetics poorly blended. Not recommended.
24th April, 2019
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Gold Lily by Shanghai Tang

This opens with creamy lily, jasmine & a touch of spice. Something about this accord comes over as rather cloying, & I sense that in large doses it could be headache-inducing for some. Thankfully this effect dies down after five to ten minutes, leaving just the creamy lily along with a rubbery note. I've smelled this rubbery note before in the body cream version of Goutal's Un Matin d'Orage, & assumed it was due to the plastic packaging leaching chemicals into the contents - I believe it was fairly old product. But perhaps this rubberiness is a side effect of whatever materials were used to create the white floral notes here. Three hours in, the rubbery effect has faded, leaving the now very soft, yet crisp lily note, which continues to fade until eleven hours in it's almost gone.
This is not a love for me, in fact I don't think I even like it enough to wear for work. I'll stick to Donna Karan Gold for my lily fix, thanks.
24th April, 2019

Oriental Pearl by Shanghai Tang

All of the classic oriental notes of amber, benzoin, labdanum & patchouli are here. The amber is sweet but not gooey or dense, while the patchouli adds a slightly medicinal edge along with woods & a touch of smoke. It's a linear perfume with good projection for the first four hours or so, after which it settles quite close to the skin, fading out after around ten hours.
There's nothing groundbreaking here, but as a lover of ambery orientals, this is just the kind of warming & comforting scent that I enjoy on cold, wet days.
24th April, 2019

Soma by Ava Luxe

Perfume oil version:

This is a clean, faintly floral white musk with an airy feel. In the opening phase, there's a hint of a sheer, not dense amber, along with a very soft lavender note. I don't get the jasmine at all. As it develops over the first couple of hours, I get impressions of a marine accord, & then something mineralic. The projection is good, & it easily lasts all day.
I'd say this one is certainly unisex as well as "office appropriate", but sadly I find it rather bland & uninteresting. It's probably the most "mainstream" of the fragrances I've tried from this line.
05th April, 2019

Cashmere Musk by Ava Luxe

Perfume oil version:

This brings back strong memories of Avon's Soft Musk, from the eighties. It's got exactly that faintly floral baby powder scent, with just a tiny hint of a lover's skin. The projection is surprisingly big for an oil, & although there's no development, it has outstanding tenacity, lasting through a shower & still giving off gentle wafts after twenty-two hours!
I find this to be a very pleasurable, comforting & pampering scent, although with this kind of longevity it does require some commitment, & it could get a bit much on a warm day. I highly recommend it to any fans of the original Soft Musk out there.
05th April, 2019

Vanilla Musk by Ava Luxe

Perfume oil version:

A sweet, but not sickly-sweet, very natural-smelling vanilla, not unlike one or two vanilla "solinotes" that I remember from the nineties, & very similar indeed to Indult's Tihota. This is possibly a fraction less buttery or eggy, although I no longer have a sample of Tihota with which to directly compare it. And just as I didn't get the musk in Tihota, I don't get it here, either. Judging from comments I've read elsewhere, I am by no means the only one with this issue. The projection is low to medium, it settles very close to the skin after six hours, & there's just a trace remaining fifteen hours in.
I'd recommend this to anyone looking for a good quality, straight-up vanilla and/or a more reasonably priced version of Tihota. For me though, vanilla on its own quickly gets boring, & I prefer it blended with other notes to give it interest.
05th April, 2019

Love Tuberose by Amouage

A sweet, fresh & flowery tuberose, swiftly joined by jasmine in the opening. For the first few moments there's a touch of crispness, before milky lactones appear, turning to coconut cream over the first half-hour. Later on, I distinctly smell lily, & perhaps a little gardenia in the heart. Four hours in, the base of vanilla & sandalwood begins to show itself. The projection is very good for the initial two hours, then it settles closer to the skin, fading out after around twelve hours.
This one definitely reminds me of another perfume, & I think it's closest to Bruno Acampora's Blu, another tuberose with a pretty, gentle & dreamlike quality. There are no in-your-face indoles here, no sharp edges to spoil the scene. If you like your white florals soft & approachable, rather than big & bold, I recommend trying this.
05th April, 2019

The Actress by St Giles

Lemon & bitter orange combine with lily in the opening to produce a rich, orange blossom-like accord. This is sharpened-up with basil & tomato leaf, so that the whole effect is fresh, crisp & green with a creamy undertone. The green notes become sharper around thirty minutes in, before slowly taking a back seat. At the two hour mark, I get a whiff of woodsmoke, perhaps from the patchouli, followed by a dry vanilla, & another crisp, papery note rather like papyrus. Later still, I get a mineral note in the base, a little like wet stones. The projection is pretty big for the first couple of hours; six hours in it's faded considerably, but there are still traces after fourteen hours.
The notes list & the description make this sound like a thoroughly feminine, "glamourpuss"-type perfume, but I think a guy could easily pull it off. My skin does tend to amplify green notes, but these along with the smoky, papery & mineral notes prevent this one from smelling overly feminine. I'd say if you're a guy who likes florals, you might want to check this out, if you can ignore the name!

P.S. I wore this recently for a day outside gardening, & it harmonised perfectly with the scents of flowers, leaves, earth & damp paving. No evening wear required to enjoy this one!
05th April, 2019

Indochine 25 by Parfumerie Generale

I agree that this is a darker, more masculine-leaning version of Cadjmere 18. The same peppery woods are here, but they have a much darker, more intense feel. Alongside the woods there's a dominant note of cardamom, as well as a kind of dark-green, boozy note. Another reviewer mentions absinthe, & that describes this very well. Three hours in, it settles much closer to the skin, but doesn't even begin to sweeten until around the five-hour mark. Even then, I do not get the honey note at all, just a whiff of benzoin in the base, & it's all pretty much gone after six hours.
For myself I much prefer Cadjmere, as it has more of the not-quite-gourmand sweetness & the lightly spiced sandalwood that I enjoy. But if you're looking for a less sweet, more masculine version, this is the one to try. There are longevity issues here though, so frequent reapplications may be necessary.
05th April, 2019

And The World Is Yours by A Lab on Fire

A gorgeous, opulent & very diffusive orange blossom scent, which smells immediately familiar to me. I cannot put my finger on why, until I remember reading that some reviewers find this to be in the same ball park as Alien, another of Ropion's creations. Yes, this is like Alien, but done with orange blossom, instead of jasmine. Others have compared it to Seville a l'Aube (which I also own & love), but this is texturally different: it's more rounded, smooth & warm, without that fresh, almost sharp edge that Seville has. There is sweetness here as it dries down, provided by notes of honey, heliotrope & tonka, but it's not a heavy, syrupy sweetness as found in Lutens' Fleur d'Oranger. Instead, the heart is beautifully balanced by neroli, which prevents the sweetness from overwhelming the orange blossom in its starring role. There's no further development, but one spray of this extrait is still going softly after eleven hours.
I have no regrets whatever on this blind buy, I just wish the bottle came with a cap. I hope it doesn't evaporate, because I wouldn't want to have to use up something this special too quickly.
07th December, 2018

Mx. by Eris Parfums

This opens with peppery incense & woods, quickly joined by the sweeter note of benzoin. lt's very soft, & as it dries down it becomes slightly smoky & powdery, with a salty, savoury note in the heart. I get no ginger, only the merest hint of castoreum, & five hours in it's barely there.
IsoESuperman's review is spot on: this is definitely unisex & pleasant, but it's nothing new, & the best that can be said is that it's inoffensive & subtle enough to be work-appropriate. The same accord has been done much better in fragrances like Labdanum 18 & Bois d'Armenie.
06th December, 2018

Ma Bête by Eris Parfums

The aldehydes in the opening are strong, giving this one a very retro, almost "turned" feel, & lasting around forty-five minutes before settling down. From the outset though, the animalic notes are easily apparent, most likely civet & costus, but this beast is a rather tame one, with moderate projection. Two hours in, an indolic jasmine turns the heart of this fragrance into a nicely balanced animalic oriental, & five hours in, I detect a smooth sandalwood in the base. At this stage it reminds me of Creed's Jasmine Imperatrice Eugenie, & it all hums along nicely for a good fourteen hours before fading.
Once the aldehydes dissipate, I quite enjoy this, but that opening is a deal breaker for me, disliking aldehydes as I do. I would go for the Creed over this one every time.
05th December, 2018

50ml D'Ambiguite by Marlou

Wow, this is one animalic powerhouse! Just a few tiny dabs produce a massive wall of castoreum & costus, with its characteristic scent of unwashed hair & animal fur. I catch a fleeting whiff of ylang in the first few moments, but otherwise this is a linear fragrance, & takes over three hours to calm down into a softer, fuzzier, slightly powdery & more friendly beast. It continues to announce its presence with wafts of filth for many more hours though, & there's still traces left after thirteen hours.
I see from pictures that the bottle (quite rightly) carries a warning label: "Handle with care, may cause intense emotions". They're not kidding! I suspect though that these emotions may prove to be entirely negative where polite society is concerned. I've tried many animalic fragrances, but the only one to rival this in terms of filth was Papillon's Salome, which also proved too much for me. You have been warned: if you hate costus, steer clear, but if you're a fan of Salome, I urge you to try this!
05th December, 2018

Larmes du Désert by Atelier Des Ors

A bright, aromatic opening with lemony frankincense & coniferous woods is soon joined by ambery, resinous notes. I agree with other reviewers that this has an agreeable warmth to it that's lacking in some of the darker or more austere incense fragrances out there. And unlike those, I think this one would be easily wearable in warm weather. Over the first couple of hours, it smooths out & sweetens a little as the benzoin becomes more prominent, & it settles into a comforting, fuzzy golden aura. The projection is not massive, but the fragrance makes its presence felt in a most enjoyable yet undemanding manner. Nine hours in it fades closer to the skin, but lasts an outstanding twenty-two hours on me.
A very nicely balanced incense, this one, & easily unisex. Perhaps if they left out the gold flecks & made it more affordable, it might even have been bottle-worthy.
05th December, 2018

Baghari by Robert Piguet

The whoosh of aldehydes & bergamot in the opening give this a very old-fashioned, retro, almost "turned" feel. After ten minutes though, this impression gives way to the scent of dried orange peel that ClaireV mentions in her review. There are flowers here, but deep in the mix & not readily identifiable to me, obscured as they are by the orangey, ambery tone of the heart. I would say that iris is probably the only floral I can smell for sure here. Over the first hour, it becomes faintly powdery, reminding me of other powdery orientals like Stoned or Fleur Oriental. Three hours in, the florals have faded, leaving a musky, ambery base which resolves itself into the skin-like, intimate scents of costus & castoreum. The initially powerful projection has become correspondingly intimate too, although it continues quietly for over twelve hours.
I'm not fond of the opening, but I found the drydown of this one rather enjoyable, & I think it works well as a warming & enveloping scent for autumn/winter.
05th December, 2018

Adjatay Cuir Narcotique by The Different Company

This is a fine quality, clean leather with none of the butch or "meaty" associations that sometimes accompany this note. Here it's blended with ylang ylang & tuberose, while papyrus lends a crispness to the mix, preventing it from becoming overly sweet or heady. Over the first two hours, the leather fades, leaving a deliciously buttery white & yellow floral accord. Five hours in, there's a mineral note that reminds me of Goutal's Un Matin d'Orage. I've smelled this in a few other fragrances as well, & I've yet to figure out what it is, but I like it! I don't get anything remotely animalic in the base, just smooth, creamy sandalwood. The projection is good, & it all lasts around seven hours before fading.
From the notes list, I expected something a little filthier than this. But no matter; it's a very elegant & beautiful tropical floral leather that makes its presence felt to just the right degree, without ever becoming cloying. Very nicely done.
05th December, 2018

Nu Eau de Toilette by Yves Saint Laurent

This goes on rather herbal & peppery, with top notes of bergamot & coriander, & a slightly "turned" aspect, possibly due to the age of the sample. It quickly turns very soft & powdery, & I agree with another reviewer who compared it to Parfum Sacre. Thirty minutes in, the orchid note comes through, & after ninety minutes this is joined by a sweetish incense. Four hours in, the base is soft, powdery incense & warm, ambery woods, wearing very close to the skin. Six hours in it's almost completely faded out.
From what I've read, this one is smoother & more "feminine" than the EDP, with the incense & pepper toned down. I've been unable to find a sample of the EDP anywhere, but I think I might prefer it. I like the EDT, but it's just a little too subtle & short-lived for my taste.
05th December, 2018

Armani Privé Rouge Malachite by Giorgio Armani

Most of the reviews mention a dominant tuberose here, but I don't get that at all. What I do get is a classically ambery floriental similar in style to YSL's Cinema, but like their Supreme Bouquet, this is strikingly similar to Alien Essence Absolue. Once I make this association, I don't notice anything except the same blend of heliotrope, jasmine & amber. Three hours in this accord fades close to the skin, but there are still traces after thirteen hours, & I get the odd whiff of soapy laundry musk many hours later.
This simply makes me realise what a great fragrance Essence Absolue is, & that there's no need to go chasing after very expensive fragrances that smell pretty much the same.
05th December, 2018