Perfume Reviews

Reviews by teardrop

Total Reviews: 680

Casamorati 1888 Fiore d'Ulivo by Xerjoff

This is a bright, fresh, citrussy, slightly green floral with just a touch of bitterness to lift it out of sweet floral mundanity. The effect is like a cheerful ray of sunshine, a breath of spring on a cold, grey day. Although I have spent quite a bit of time around olive groves, I confess I'm not actually sure what the flowers smell like. But this perfume is mostly magnolia for me, along with the grassiness I associate with the best Kalamata virgin olive oil. Fragrantica lists basil among the notes, & I do smell it here; in fact it reminds me of Avon's Lemon & Basil, an old summer favourite of mine. This, too, would be wonderfully cooling in hot weather, I think. Around forty-five minutes in, there is a salty/oily aspect, better done IMO than in Slumberhouse's nauseating Pear & Olive. Five hours in it begins to fade to a crisp, clean & soapy musk base, but still with that citrus overtone. At this stage it reminds me of a cleaning product, albeit a posh, high-end one. It all lasts around twelve hours before disappearing.
I enjoyed trying this one, but the fact that it reminds me by turns of a much cheaper fragrance & a household product will prevent me from spending the amount of hard-earned cash that this house demands.
15th May, 2017

Stash by Sarah Jessica Parker

I get bergamot, not grapefruit, pepper, incense, woods, & a thick, buttery sandalwood here, although to my surprise it's not listed as a note. It's like a cross between Sahara Noir, Santal Blush & Champagne de Bois, all fragrances that I own & love. Like the "sweater melange" of someone who's been drinking bourbon in a smoky club, with cumin adding just a suggestion of sweat, the overall effect is subtle, not too animalic & certainly not offensive. The vetiver is very faint on me.
I am so impressed with this one that it's going on my wishlist. If I sniffed it blind I'd swear it was a Tom Ford, even though the performance is not as good, lasting as it does around four hours on me. For the price, though, it's a standout among mainstream perfumery, & certainly among celebuscents! Easily unisex, too.
15th May, 2017

Tango by Aftelier

In the opening, I get the fizzy-powdery "Refreshers" effect mentioned elsewhere, swiftly followed by the much-discussed "toasted seashells" note. This comes across as both animalic & strangely aquatic, a little like ambergris. The effect is like the contents of one of those orange PVC bags we used to hold our swimming kit at school in the late seventies/early eighties, with a stash of sweeties stuffed inside. It's an odd combination, not actually offensive, but certainly different to anything else I've smelled. Fifteen minutes in, the animalic note fades, & a mildly spiced, sweet tobacco takes its place. At this stage I begin to enjoy it, but I don't get the orange or floral notes here. Two hours in, it morphs into the same sugar-dusted cinnamon pastry accord that I noted in Amber Tapestry. It all lasts a good seven hours before fading.
The reviews for this one are all over the place; it seems to smell different to each person who smells it. It's not one I can imagine wanting to wear, but it's definitely one to sniff if you're feeling jaded about sampling, or feeling like everything smells the same these days. Unfortunately I believe it's been discontinued...
15th May, 2017
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Oud Luban by Aftelier

The orange note comes through very strongly in the opening, but it's thick & resinous, more like an orange liqueur than the juice or rind of fresh fruit. Or like one of those candied orange pieces, without the dusting of sugar. After a few minutes the frankincense starts to appear, & slowly takes over, in a dry & dusty fashion, until one hour in, the orange has disappeared entirely. I'm no oud expert, but I detect it very subtly here, more earthy than barnyard-y. Four hours in I get faint hints of ginger & patchouli, but at this point the projection is very low, although it lasts a good eleven hours before fading out.
I don't dislike this one, but nothing about it really grabbed me, hence the neutral rating.
15th May, 2017

Cacao by Aftelier

This smells just like a Terry's Chocolate Orange, with something dark & animalic lurking beneath. That may be the jasmine, but I don't get anything overtly floral here. Three hours in, it takes on a distinctly metallic edge, which makes me suspect the presence of neroli, but otherwise there's little development, & it lasts for over seven hours.
I am not a fan of chocolate in perfume, & so I am not surprised that this one isn't for me. Someone else mentioned the cloyingly sticky fingers & faces of little children in association with it; a nauseating image that only adds to my sense of revulsion.
15th May, 2017

Amber Tapestry by Aftelier

This opens as a fruity, slightly waxy jasmine, quickly taking on the texture & sweetness of crunchy demerara sugar, with a hint of cinnamon. There's a definite gourmand feel here, evoking unctuous pastries & other baked goods. Three to four hours in, it dries down to a sweet, warm & fuzzy base, suggestive of an animal's fur, but not animalic in any kind of dirty or fecal way. There's a slight saltiness deep in the drydown, & it all lasts around ten hours before fading out.
I would say that this is not primarily an amber fragrance, in the same way that Ambre Narguile is not. But it is a similar kind of comfort scent, creating a delicious, golden-brown aura that feels wonderfully cosy on a cold, grey day.
15th May, 2017

Cuir de Gardenia by Aftelier

In the vial this is a sweet, creamy gardenia, but on my skin it's an indolic jasmine, along with the kind of rubbery/plasticky smell that I associate with the interior of a new car. I've smelled this before in Tom Ford's Velvet Gardenia, & it's not a pleasant association for me. One hour in, the rubberiness calms down, & from here it steadily sweetens into a warm & honeyed floral, fading out after six hours. This stage is more pleasant to me, but it's not gardenia, & therefore a disappointment after being so excited to try it. But my wallet is relieved.
15th May, 2017

Un Matin d'Orage Eau de Parfum by Annick Goutal

I have owned & loved the EDT for several years, but it proved impossible to find a sample or tester of the EDP anywhere. Eventually curiosity overcame me & I blind-bought a bottle online. The notes list is very different from that of the EDT, but to my surprise, the two smell almost exactly the same. The only listed note they share is magnolia, & I can only surmise that this is the dominant note in both compositions. If pushed, I'd say the EDP is more crisp, citrussy, green & woody, less creamy than the EDT. It's also drier, less diffusive, & less focussed on the moist & steamy aspect of these dewy garden flowers. The EDP does become creamier after an hour though, & from here the differences are far less apparent. Both have that wonderful aura of a garden after the rain, warming in the sun, the individual notes difficult to define but giving off wonderful wafts of sillage for hours on end, & lasting a good twelve hours before fading.
I have no regrets on blind-buying this, although I do have a slight preference for the EDT. It is one of the most beautiful perfumes I own, & will always have a place in my spring rotation. But I would say that if you have the EDT & haven't tried this, you are not really missing much, & owning both would probably be redundant.
15th May, 2017

Eau de Narcisse Bleu by Hermès

For the first half-hour, this is an aldehydic citrus, with the "off" note that I get from certain aldehydes. After this, it settles into an accord of spring florals, but for me it's not specifically narcissus. And then two hours in, it morphs into a powdery oriental, with a distinctly resinous labdanum-opoponax base. The projection is low, and twelve hours in there's just a trace of soft florals remaining.
I was expecting something cold here, a bracing breath of early spring, but the narcissus eluded me, & although I enjoy a powdery oriental, this one was just "meh" for me.
15th May, 2017

Romanza by Masque

The opening has the same creosote-like note that I got from Soivohle's Violets & Rainwater, but thankfully here it dissipates much more quickly. What emerges is the impression of a leafy, wet garden in early spring, with the still-cold earth beneath. This is not a pretty, picture-postcard garden, but one that has been allowed to grow wild & rampant. There's a rawness here, & a slight feeling of menace, urging one to retreat to the warmth & safety indoors. The narcissus builds in strength, & remains unapologetically front & centre for the duration of this fragrance, giving off subtle but insidiously seductive wafts for hours & hours. In the heart I get something distinctly animalic, & the base is sweeter - not a vanilla sweetness, but a narcotic floral sweetness. The lasting power is superb, with traces still remaining after twenty-four hours on my skin.
This is not my usual style, being a tad too green for my taste, but it is impressive, & if you love narcissus, this one is surely a must-try!
15th May, 2017

Issara by Parfums Dusita

There is both a freshness & an earthiness to this one. There's a crisp, sunlit opening, followed by smooth tobacco, a hint of sage, & an undertone of tonka. Over the first hour, the tobacco becomes smokier, & then comes the best part: the coumarin comes out in full force, with all its hay-like sweetness. There are shades of Chergui here, although this is less sweet & less dense. The projection is excellent for a good six hours, & overall it lasts well over twelve hours, sometimes up to twenty-four on a good day.
I am no expert on fougeres, but I really enjoy this one in autumn, & am very impressed with its performance on my skin.
15th May, 2017

No. 5 L'Eau by Chanel

For me, the citrus top notes barely last two seconds before being overwhelmed by the aldehydes; the type of aldehydes that to me make the fragrance smell "turned". There's also an overly synthetic, plasticky feel here for the first half-hour. After this, the aldehydes dissipate leaving a creamy, floral accord, which lasts a good long while. The florals are hard to pick out, but on sniffing closely I do detect a pale, silvery iris, & a lovely, fresh rose. There's a lot of clean white musk in the heart, & in the far drydown the citrus resurfaces along with a biscuit-like note, giving a faint impression of lemon cookies. The whole lasts around eight hours before fading.
I can see how this one might be regarded as inoffensive, perhaps even elegant, & for the most part I agree. But the quality of the aldehydes here are a deal-breaker for me. I found much more to enjoy in Eau Premiere, & that, not this, is the one I'd consider buying.
15th May, 2017

Sable & Soleil by Phaedon

Luckyscent describe this one as "stark & dry", but this is not my impression at all. I find it light, sweet & cheerful, opening with a mix of salty sea air & lemon blossom. After a few minutes, the jasmine comes through, along with an undercurrent of milky coconut. Two hours in, the tonka note sweetens it further, & there's a faint sandalwood in the base. The projection is low, & after four hours it's only detectable by putting nose to skin, although it lasts a good twelve hours.
I find this one pleasant but nothing special, & the lack of projection frustrates me, although it's possible it might bloom more on a warm day, with liberal application.It doesn't, however, come close to Phaedon's richer fragrances like Tabac Rouge or Rouge Avignon for me.
02nd February, 2017
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Aqua Allegoria Ylang & Vanille by Guerlain

According to the notes list on Fragrantica, there is carnation in this one, as well as the eponymous ylang & vanille. None of the reviews here on BN mention this, but I find a definite note of carnation competing with the ylang in the initial phase here. The ylang slowly wins through, joined around forty five minutes in by a creamy, smooth & tropical vanilla. The whole effect is like a soft, warm breath of summer on this cold winter's day. There's no further development, & from here it wears very close to the skin, but it's a dreamy, creamy, not-too-sweet floral that I could see myself enjoying during the warmer months.
02nd December, 2016

Darling by Fabergé

This is an aldehydic floral with a cosmetic-style, powdery rose. For the first hour, the aldehydes are pungent, almost headache-inducing, & frankly rather cheap-smelling. And then it settles into a base of mossy woods, softening considerably after two hours, & pretty much gone after five. There's also a hint of pickling vinegar along the way.
I've seen a review that compares this to the original Le Jardin by Max Factor, a fragrance I owned in my late teens, & haven't smelled since. From my vague memories of it, I can see the resemblance. But my tastes have changed, & neither are something I would want to wear now.
02nd December, 2016

Parfum Divin by Caudalíe

Apparently this perfume is based on the scent of a body oil made by Caudalie, which I have never tried, but reviews on Fragrantica peg it as a lighter version of the Nuxe oil, which I have tried, & I agree with their assessment. According to the notes list, there is rose in here, but I smell white flowers, mainly jasmine, atop a base of sun-warmed skin. There's no coconut or suntan lotion here though, & it's not overly sweet, although there is a creamy vanilla along with soft woods & white musk in the base. It's quite diffusive for the first ninety minutes, & persists nicely for around seven hours before fading.
It's a simple but pleasant scent suitable for the warmer months, & I think it could be worn anywhere without offending anyone.
02nd December, 2016

Comme des Garçons White by Comme des Garçons

In the opening I get rich woods, mainly cedar, with a touch of what smells to me like citrus, but I'm guessing must be the pomegranate note. As the fragrance unfolds, I detect herbal/spicy notes of coriander, pepper, nutmeg & clove, followed by a spicy rose in the heart. Ninety minutes in, it all dies down to a low hum of peppery woods, although I do get a whiff of lily of the valley, & later there's cinnamon in the base, fading out at around the seven hour mark.
Those first ninety minutes are pleasantly autumnal, smelling more golden-brown than white to me. After this, however, the fragrance seems to collapse in on itself, leaving me somewhat underwhelmed in the end.
02nd December, 2016

Eau de Gucci by Gucci

This review is for the Eau de Gucci Concentree version, launched in 1982. This is the one pictured on this page, although it's listed as Eau de Gucci, which was actually launched in 1993, & had a different set of notes. The notes for the Concentree are listed on as tangerine, lilac, jasmine, violet, sandalwood, vetiver & vanilla.
This goes on citrussy & cologne-like, quickly morphing into a white floral accord with jasmine & I swear, a rubbery tuberose. Thirty minutes in it blooms into a full-bodied, heady yet smooth & spring-like floral. Three hours in, a lovely lilac note emerges from the background to take centre stage. From this point it fades fast, & I get no discernible base, but it's still going softly after eleven hours.
Definitely one for springtime.
02nd December, 2016

Amazone (original) by Hermès

This opens as a bright, sharp, green floral with a prominent hyacinth note. A few minutes in, it turns unpleasantly bitter on my skin, but after an hour the bitterness fades, leaving a softer green floral accord. At this point I get lily of the valley, & later a fresh & pretty rose, with a soft vetiver beneath. Four hours in it's very soft, but lasts around ten hours before fading out.
This isn't my usual type of thing, & I'm giving it a neutral rating because I dislike that bitter phase. But after this it's really a quite lovely floral, evocative of springtime. One that I think all lovers of green florals would appreciate!
02nd December, 2016

Shocking by Elsa Schiaparelli

This review is for the 1997 version.

This is rich, honeyed florals, like "a voluptuous, heavy silk gown" as one reviewer put it. In the initial phase, the sweetness is tempered by fruit & herbs with bergamot & tarragon, but these soon step aside to give centre stage to a narcissus that positively drips with honey. This might be cloying for some, especially in an enclosed space, & those who find honey in perfume to smell like pee would probably find it repellent. But I love it! Two hours in, there are glimmers of a more crisp, chypre base, but the sweetness remains present throughout. I guess there isn't any civet in this version, as I get nothing animalic here. The projection is strong for the first three hours, & it hums along softly for a good seven hours before fading.
I didn't expect to like this, but it's just the kind of big, sweet floral that I adore; a very pleasant surprise!
02nd December, 2016

Cadjméré 18 by Parfumerie Generale

This opens with creamy woods, citrus peel & a faintly camphoraceous note. The much-mentioned toasted coconut is there, but I have to sniff for it. It's a slightly odd mix, but soon it settles into a lightly spiced, fuzzy sandalwood, with a deep, chocolatey vanilla running through it. It's not overly sweet, though, more like salted caramel than cupcakes. At this stage I totally get the comparisons to Dior Addict. There's something vaguely animalic in there as well, & twenty minutes in it's a luscious comfort scent. After an hour or so, some powderiness creeps in, & at the two-hour mark it's all soft, powdery woods, still with that faint camphoraceousness. From here it becomes a skin scent, & lasts around nine hours before fading.
I've really enjoyed using my sample as a comfort scent on cold days, & as an added bonus, my partner likes it too. I'd prefer it to project for much longer, but this could well end up on my buy list.
02nd December, 2016

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille : Sur la Route de Madagascar by Guerlain

The opening blast of bergamot is thankfully not as sharp as in the modern Shalimar EDP, & the scent quickly becomes a little leathery, with the richness of opoponax resin humming along beneath. Fifteen minutes in, the best part of this fragrance begins to show itself: a gorgeously satisfying, smoky, not-too-sweet vanilla, joined further on by a wisp of incense. It reminds me of the much-missed PDT version of Shalimar that I owned in the 90s, & I find myself huffing my arm in blissful longing. This stage lasts & projects for a good long while until, around four hours in, it all softens down into a woody vanilla base & becomes a skin scent. Seven hours in it's almost gone.
I could kick myself for waiting so long to try this one as it's so hard to find now. I can only keep praying to the Perfume Gods that it might return in some form, someday...
02nd December, 2016

Jasmal by Creed

Smelling this, all I can think of is vintage Diorissimo. Seriously, this is way more about lily of the valley than jasmine, to my nose. It's a little green, with just a touch of indole, becoming slightly creamy after the first couple of hours. At this point, it settles very close to the skin, & four hours in it's pretty much gone.
From reading other reviews here, I can see I'm not the only one having longevity issues with this one. It's very pretty, & I think it might be lovely in spring, but its lack of tenacity is disappointing. I much prefer its richer, more oriental sister, Jasmine Imperatrice Eugenie, & her delicious sandalwood drydown.
02nd December, 2016

Narcotic Flowers by 1000 Flowers

An animalic floral oriental with bergamot in the opening, peachy osmanthus, indolic jasmine, tuberose & a touch of green narcissus. After twenty minutes, I detect vanilla & a faint musty note which doesn't detract from the whole, but serves to add a hint of intrigue. Projection is good for the first hour, & then it quietens down considerably. Ninety minutes in, it's a creamy, fruity floral similar to Isabey's Lys Noir, but not as overwhelmingly sickly. The base is soft labdanum, woods & subtle spices, & four hours in all that's left is a trace of narcissus with vanilla. The whole lasts around six hours before fading out altogether.
I like this, but the performance is much weaker than I expected. I need to try it again on a warm spring day, in the hope that it'll bloom more for me then.
02nd December, 2016

Mélodie de L'Amour by Parfums Dusita

For the first few minutes, this is a pollen-heavy bouquet of spring flowers, along with a hint of plastic. This bouquet is dominated by the type of indolic jasmine that's reminiscent of magic markers. I sense a gardenia note struggling to get through, but just when I've decided this is one of those gardenia perfumes that's not really gardenia, twenty minutes in she emerges in all her glory! Yes, creamy, true gardenia with a faintly vanillic undertone. There's a rubbery note here, too, but that lessens over the next hour, & the gardenia continues to occupy centre stage, until around four hours in. At this point I begin to get wafts of neroli, although it's not listed. Perhaps this is how my nose interprets the peach note, or there's orange blossom among the listed "white flowers". From here I detect no further change in its development, the projection goes from very good to low, & it begins to fade out after eleven hours.
Apart from the plastic note in the opening, this is a lovely floral that I would recommend for my fellow gardenia lovers to try. For myself, though, having tried the perfection that is Dame Perfumery's Soliflore Gardenia, it has a lot to live up to. And at this price point, I would hesitate to consider a purchase.
02nd December, 2016

Coco Coco by Coqui Coqui

Although the only note listed for this one is coconut, I have to say it does not scream "COCONUT!" to me. For me it's more of an airy, aquatic white floral with a hint of green. There is a coconut-like vibe, but it comes off as very light & synthetic. It's not the thick, sticky-sweet kind of coconut that I find so delicious, nor does it suggest suntan lotion or beach cocktails. It projects well for the first couple of hours, becoming sweeter & slightly rubbery, & then settles very close to the skin. After five hours it's completely gone.
I'm giving it a neutral rating because it might suit those who prefer their coconut on the subtle side, but this is not coconut as I know & love it, & after the first two hours, the performance is abysmal. Disappointing.
02nd December, 2016

Saggita by Electimuss

Built around the champaca flower, this fragrance is not dissimilar to Tom Ford's Champaca Absolute. It's a heady, "perfumey", warm floral, with a pronounced fruity aspect, similar to the apricot-like scent of osmanthus, & a subtle hint of spice. For the first two hours it's pretty powerful, & then it loses the fruitiness, settling slowly into a creamy, woody floral with perhaps a touch of incense, & fading out after seven hours.
I adore the scent of champaca, & this one is very nicely done, but I think Comme des Garcons' Champaca is more to my taste, being less fruity & more of a creamy white floral.
02nd December, 2016

Lys Noir (new) by Isabey

This opens with sharply peppery aldehydes, before a creamy, fruity floral accord comes to the fore. The most prominent floral here is lily; the promised narcissus sadly absent, to my nose. There's a light dusting of spices, & dark woods humming along beneath. One hour in, the fruity aspect becomes overwhelmingly, sickeningly, headache-inducingly sweet. Another hour later, thankfully this subsides, & what's left is a soft, buttery-creamy sandalwood. At this stage it becomes a skin scent, just about detectable after seven hours.
I tried this on a warm, humid day, & again in cooler, fresher weather, but the effect was the same. I can't quite bring myself to give it a negative rating, because the sandalwood at the end is quite delicious. But for me, it's not worth holding my breath through that sickening phase to get there.
02nd December, 2016

La Religieuse by Serge Lutens

I had to try this for myself, despite the number of reviews panning it, because the notes list made it sound right up my street. Alas, I should have heeded the reviews, & left it at that. It's all true: the "incompleteness" of the jasmine note, the similarity to a hundred department store fragrances and/or functional products, the general synthetic, "plasticky" feel, the almost total absence of incense or animalics. A shockingly disappointing excuse for a Lutens.

It opens with a flat, fruity jasmine, joined fifteen minutes in by a kind of grey, dusty-peppery note which I assume is supposed to be incense, but it's faint. One hour in, something resembling musk begins to warm & soften it, & there's a vaguely aquatic note in the heart, before it settles into a musky floral base five hours in. This stage is pleasant but generic, & nothing more. It's still going softly seven hours in, when I head for the shower so I can forget this experience & apply something more interesting.
06th September, 2016

Divine by Divine

This is a real old-school perfume in the French style, with oakmoss apparent right from the start. Unfortunately for me it's a style that doesn't do too well on my skin, coming off as musty, dated & slightly off. For the first half hour it's hard to pick out any other notes, but then slowly a warm, creamy sandalwood emerges, along with a touch of indolic jasmine & tuberose, although the floral notes don't stick around for long. The sandalwood sweetens the moss, eventually melding with vanilla in the base over around six hours.
I respect these "grand dame" type of fragrances, but I find them muddy, too "well-blended", if you will. I would have preferred the white flowers to stand out more strongly, but the base notes seem to overpower them. Perhaps it's my skin, which often seems to amplify notes like moss, vetiver & galbanum, & I'm not a fan of green notes in general. But if you love this style, this is surely one to try!
06th September, 2016