Perfume Reviews

Reviews by SilkandSteel

Total Reviews: 12

La Chasse Aux Papillons Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Lovely lovely lovely! I'm usually not a fan of fragrances that are soft florals, and just soft florals, but La Chase extreme has enchanted me! Surely, this is the fragrance that all other soft spring florals aspire to be.

It begins with a melange of orange flowers, tuberose, and other florals that are too well blended to be picked out individually. Some spices, such as pink pepper, brighten and uplift, giving character and individuality without messing with the softness. After a while, jasmine emerges to mingle with the other flowers and bring sensuality. Lightly sweet, but never too sweet. Definitely wistful. Very playful. Perfect for the sophisticated woman, who shuns sweet characterless florals, to show her youthful and playful exuberance. After all, just because you're a pretty young thing doesn't mean you don't have a wit to contend with! A must try.
22nd August, 2005

Fleur de Peau by Keiko Mecheri

Spectacular fragrance! This one is quite perfect, with brilliant composition. The fragrance begins with heady jasmine and light balsalmic notes. The base, which is present quite markedly from beginning to end, is full of animalic civet and sexy sexy leather. Slightly fecal, but only if you really know what you're looking for and you're sniffing your wrist over and over again. Do not worry that anyone else will find it fecal on you. Rather, the subtly fecal scent is one of the most alluringly sensuous possible components of a fragrance, if executed well as it is in this.

In some ways Fleur de Peau reminds me of Bandit, with its jasmine, civet, and leather. But Fleur de Peau is...more refined, and softer. More soft suede to Bandit's wild black leather. For the less bold of heart, or for a more refined or formal occasion. Reach for Fleur de Peau instead for the office Christmas party.

Definitely unisex, but not in a bland or ambivalent way. A man wearing it will come off as sexy in a masculine way, and a woman wearing it will come off as sexy in a feminine way. Brilliant sillage and very impressive longevity, this fragrance is powerful and softly sexy at the same time.
22nd August, 2005

Gold Man by Amouage

I really love the men's gold. It is a fragrance of supreme luxury, elegance, and power. To be honest, Amouage Gold is what brought me into a whole new level of fragrance appreciation. I first fell in love with the women's Gold, and then, in rapid order, the men's. After joining basenotes I thought that perhaps it was just my first foray into true quality and niche fragrances, and that after sampling other high quality fragrances I would find it less attractive. But no. Amouage Gold still is, and will probably always be, my holy grail.

Amouage Gold Crystal for men is very similar to the women's, only darker, to my nose by an extra dose of rich, dark, and smooth patchouli in the base. You still get that deliciously decadent and complex jasmine and orris, that musky and sensual civet, and that precious and almost awe-inspiring silver frankincense. It doesn't get any more complex. It doesn't get any more opulent. It doesn't get any more sensual.

Some people may find it too feminine for men, and I agree it can be worn by some women, but...well let's just say that smell is often linked to taste, and when I smell Amouage Gold Crystal for men I conjure up an image of a tall, handsome man with an exquisitely tailored suit and a predatory gleam in his eye...which is exactly what I have a taste for. ;)
22nd August, 2005
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Ciel Woman by Amouage

Upon reading the notes, I could tell that Ciel would be one of those fragrances that I like, but are simply not me. Lovely, to be sure, and very well crafted, but not my type. And I was right.

It's difficult to pick out individual notes in Ciel. In the beginning, I detect gardenia, peach blossoms, and a light sprinkling of jasmine. There are also green notes and fresh aquatic notes. To my nose, the fresh aquatic notes smell a bit synthetic, which is very different from the others of the Amouage line. It's also fairly sweet, which does not please me but may appeal to others. A slightly woody base comes through, but it's subdued by the sweetness and the freshness that's central to this scent. Longer lasting than most fragrances of it's type, but not terribly long lasting compared to all fragrances. About 5-6 hours, I would say.

Overall, I think this is a nice fragrance if you like the light, sweet, floral-aquatics, which I don't particularly. However, even if you do, I think that you can find similar fragrances that smell just as good for a more appealing price. Nice, but simply not unique or wonderful enough to justify the price.
22nd August, 2005

Shalimar by Guerlain

A well made fragrance that has endured the test of time. While not an exceptional fragrance, Shalimar is certainly a great one. It opens with a medley of bergamot and lemon, with bergamot's greenness keeping it from becoming too sour. The heart of jasmine and iris is quite sensual and and floral. The base is elegant, with sweet vanilla and warm smooth sandalwood with a touch of woody patchouli. Very very feminine, but sophisticated and lady-like. Shalimar accentuates the sweetness of a woman's mysterious allure. You will never know all her secrets, but somehow you like it that way...

Shalimar has quite spectacular staying power, with the very sensual and soothing vanilla and sandalwood drydown lasting overnight! Sillage is nice, and not overpowering. Lovely, elegant, and sensual, Shalimar is as romantic as the story behind its name, and is surely classic in every sense of the word.
22nd August, 2005

Dia Woman by Amouage

When I first tried Amouage Dia for women, I dismissed it off hand because I had fallen so head over heals for Amouage Gold. Why in the world would I, or anyone, for that matter, wear Dia when I could wear Gold? But I have since learned, that just because you love a scent to death does not mean you can wear it EVERYWHERE and at ANYTIME. In the heat of the day, Gold can be too much, and Dia is the perfect choice for casual elegance.

Dia is very similar to Gold in some ways and very different in others. It begins the same jasmine, orris, and silver frankincense, which last throughout the day, upon a base of civet and powdery musk. However, all of these notes are softer, more muted, and Dia adds a very smooth heart of powdery rose that's just really spectacularly incorporated.

Dia is Gold's softer, more powdery, and less heady daytime sister, with a strong rose accord. It has the same longevity, but slightly less sillage. Dia is definitely a try-before-you-buy, due to it's high price, but is utterly lovely and charming, in a complex but unobtrusive way.
22nd August, 2005

Gold Woman by Amouage

My love, my love, my one and only. Never again shall I stray! I shall henceforth spurn the company of others, so that I might spend my days in adulatory contemplation of your magnificent splendor!

Umm...or maybe not. But close. Very, very close. This is the one scent that sometimes makes me wonder why I would ever buy anything else. To be honest, Amouage Gold is what brought me into a whole new level of fragrance appreciation. I first fell in love with the women's Gold, and then, in rapid order, the men's. After joining basenotes I thought that perhaps it was just my first foray into true quality and niche fragrances, and that after sampling other high quality fragrances I would find it less attractive. But no. I have sampled far and wide, and found many other lovely and well crafted fragrances, but none have surpassed Amouage Gold's splendor. Amouage Gold for Women still is, and will probably always be, my holy grail.

Amouage Gold for women begins with lovely, intoxicating, and decadent jasmine and orris. Rock rose blends in lightly, lending a slight balsamic tone. Precious silver frankincense, prized since biblical times, brings an air of mystery and awe. Civet and musk reveal themselves slowly, growing increasingly powerful as this complex fragrance develops. Heady, rich, complex, and opulent, there is no fragrance as sensual as Amouage Gold.

When it comes to sillage and longevity, you cannot ask for a better scent than this. Lasts all day, and often well into the next, even on the skin, and you're going to have to wash it out of clothes! The absolutely incredible silage will turn heads in wonder.

Sample first, due to the somewhat exorbitant price, but I swear to you it is worth every last penny!
22nd August, 2005

Datura Noir by Serge Lutens

his Serge Lutens creation had me very intrigued, but alas, fell short of my expectations due to one note. It begins beautifully, with bright manderine, heady tuberose, uplifting osmanthus (which is one of my favorite flowers!) and powdery datura. There is also a perfectly lovely base of soft musk that the flowers rest upon.

Alas, but for one note. Almond. There is a strong sweet almondy-vanilla note in the base, and it is almost overpowering. Once this note begins to emerge from the base, it quickly takes over with its heady sweetness. Such a pity. Too sweet for me, and a little too almondy. The almond note reminds me of a sweet almond milk drink from the Chinese store that I use to like as a child, but soon grew sick of as I grew.

I'm giving this one a thumbs up because if you are not as averse to such heavy sweetness, you will enjoy it. However, I think it would be a much better fragrance for me, and indeed a much better CRAFTED fragrance if the sweet almondy note were softer, or less sweet, or both. Then it wouldn't overpower the lovely symphony of flowers that Serge Lutens created with the tuberose, osmanthus, and datura, which wind about each other magnificently for those brief first few minutes.
21st August, 2005

Fleurs d'Oranger by Serge Lutens

I was slightly dissapointed with this. This was not, to my nose, as heady and complex as other reviews had lead me to believe. When first applied, there is a very nice combination of Orange Flower, a touch of Jasmine, and a smidge of Rose. However, there is also a pretty strong sweetness to it, almost peachy-sweet. Too sugary for me, and it drowns out the complexity of the rose and jasmine curling around the orange flower. The overall effect after a few minutes was 40% peachy-sweet and 60% orange flower.

The peachy-sweetness faded after about an hour, as top notes are wont to do, but by then so had the rose and jasmine. All that's left is orange flower orange flower orange flower. Nice, but not very complex, nor does it justify the Serge Lutens price, in my mind.
21st August, 2005

Bandit by Robert Piguet

I tested Bandit by Robert Piguet, and boy did I fall in love. Deeply, madly, and truly in love. This is what I have been waiting for.

If Amouage Gold, the other great love of my life, is a little black dress with diamonds dripping from my earlobes, then Bandit is a leather miniskirt, my black lace corset, and a riding crop. It opens with a beguiling accord of jasmine, orris, and spicy carnation, and just a hint of the sharpness of bergamot. As soon as it truly settles on your skin, within a minute, a deep and richly dark leather reveals itself smugly, as if scornful of its more eager companions. The leather grows richer but does not overpower. The jasmine and the orris and the rose and the civet fall in step, visible and vibrant, but it is clear who is master here.

The staying power of this fragrance is magnificent. When I dove under the soft covers of my bed five hours after application, Bandit was still going strong. It was perhaps a bit softer now, calmer, but by no means subdued. And so I slumbered, and dreamt of mischievous things.

The next morning when I woke up Bandit's leathery drydown greeted me like a lover. I curled up with it, snuggling down into my pillow, and delayed my morning routine just a little bit longer before rising reluctantly, bidding it farewell.

This lovely fragrance of remarkable darkness and power can most definitely be worn by a man, but is most perfectly suited for, as the official description reads, not every woman but a certain woman. A woman who intimidates a fair number of men, but doesn't mind since they were sorely lacking in any case. A woman whose charms when turned full force can't be resisted, especially since most men can't imagine why one would try. Bandit weaves a web of intrigue around me, and man is the fly that dreams of the spider.
21st August, 2005

Aqua Allegoria Rosa Magnifica by Guerlain

Absolutely magnificent! I received a sample of this from a swap and have used it dry! At last, a young and exuberant rose! I love rose, but have often been afraid to wear it because many men find it old fashioned or are reminded of their mothers. Rosa Magnifica gives me no such qualms.

Guerlain's lovely creation begins with a bold freshness that sparkles in grace and defiance, brought about by bergamot and other green and uplifting notes. Peppery and spicy notes uplift and excite the senses. The rosy heart reveals itself beautifully and blends well with all the other accords.

This fragrance is perfectly suited for a day at the office or a spontaneous romantic picnic. Wonderfully exciting and quite inexpensive to boot, Aqua Allegoria Rosa Magnifica is a must try, and a subsequent must buy!
21st August, 2005

2000 Fleurs by Creed

I found it quite flowery, which is no surprise considering the name, but disappointing in that it seems to be almost entirely so. It had this odd sharp note in the opening, and indeed throughout most of the middle although it was muted by the base. It was not a green sharp, which I enjoy in many fragrances. It was not a spicy sharp, which I also have been known to love. It was not even the spicy floral sharp that certain spicy flowers, such as jasmine, carnation, or ylang ylang give. It was a purely floral sharp. Violets, methinks, is the main culprit, but it is joined by the entire floral bouquet. This is the type of floral note that is so high, it soars above the rest of the fragrance to assault the nose in a piercing fashion. I did not find it particularly offensive, nor particularly attractive to be honest, but if someone often finds florals headache-inducing then this is a note that will surely do it.
21st August, 2005