Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Dane

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Total Reviews: 138

La Couche du Diable by Serge Lutens

Amber and tomato paste. There may be an exquisite drydown, but I couldn't get past the first 30 minutes to find out.
26th November, 2019

Essence No. 8 : Santal by Elie Saab

I find there are 2 broad categories of fragrances - one that I like to spray on my arm and study the progression and nuances, and the second, something that's just nice to wear.

Santal falls into the latter category. It's comfortable, uncomplicated, but done well. I don't smell any apricot or osmanthus sadly, but a nice accord of sandalwood, vetiver, and a touch of leather.

Like the rest of this line, nicely done, demure but durable, and a good deal at discounters' current prices.
23rd November, 2019

Essence No. 2 : Gardenia by Elie Saab

This is very well done, and in keeping with the rest of the "Essence" line - demure, wearable, and with great ingredients.

The only other gardenia that I've actually taken my wallet out for was Tom Ford'd discontinued Velvet Gardenia. Elie Saab's is much easier to wear, and without the cheesy aspects of the Tom Ford. It also maintains the gardenia illusion longer, without the brute force that plague much of TF's line.

Highly recommended for gardenia lovers, and in my opinion, also better than Estee Lauder's Tuberose Gardenia, which was too "perfumey" for me.
18th November, 2019 (last edited: 19th November, 2019)
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Fate Woman by Amouage

Get an older bottle of Opium on eBay. It'll be cheaper and better.
17th November, 2019

Rose Mignonnerie Extrait de Cologne by Roger & Gallet

This is pretty generic, the only thing that stands out is the similarity between this and Shisiedo's Ever Bloom (same perfumer), although Ever Bloom is more interesting.

Also, the claim that 87% of the ingredients are natural must refer to the grain alcohol content, because I smell nothing natural.
15th November, 2019

Aurore Nomade by The Different Company

This is a weird one. The opening is a wonderful fruit bowl of who-knows-what. A fresh accord, not quite marine, but not miles away either lingers in the background. It's subtle enough to not recollect nightmares of the 90's.

The heart is less exciting. Still fruity, a bit tropical, and a little "off" (in a good way).

I happen to love a good fruity perfume, this doesn't quite match some other favourites like Yvress or Chinatown, but I wouldn't say no to a bottle.
14th November, 2019 (last edited: 13th November, 2019)

Galaad by Lubin

This is a very good, cigar-box fragrance for the quiet-type. Aside from some nice spices and balsams, it possesses a nice freshness with a slight smokey undertone.

Not necessarily my type of thing, and definitely not a thrilling encounter, but a solid fragrance for someone who only wants to own one bottle of perfume.

Also worth noting that it shares a very similar amber drydown to its sister scent, Galaad.
13th November, 2019 (last edited: 14th November, 2019)

Dreckig bleiben by PMP Perfumes

I really like this. After a burnt, smoky start, a lovely and strange accord emerges that reminds me of wet wood. In the same vein as ambient fragrances like Patchouli 24, but in a transparent, delicate way, like the subtle scent of fine paper.

I'd love to own a bottle of this. Beautiful.
13th November, 2019

Concrete Flower by PMP Perfumes

This is a nice twist on the Eau de Cologne, albeit a bit soapy/musky. It opens up rather generically, but it's worth the wait. The heart has a lovely, dry greenness.

Probably not worth the price, or moreso, the effort to find somewhere to ship to use lowly North Americans. But nice.
13th November, 2019

Idole Eau de Parfum by Lubin

I'm not sure if my sample is wrong, but this is not what I remembered when I tested Idols EDT some years back. That was saffron and leather, not miles from Safran Troublant, a favourite of mine.

The sample I have of the EDP is a harsh, spiced orange pomander that I find highly unpleasant.

Hopefully my sample is wrong, because this is terrible.
13th November, 2019

Akkad by Lubin

This is a lovely take on amber, with resins and spices and just the right amount of sweetness. Not groundbreaking, not as unusual as the king of this arena, Ambre Sultan, but its much easier to wear.

One special aspect is the diffusion this scent offers. It doesn't matter what else I'm smelling, the lingering sultriness won't let you escape.

A wonderful amber.
13th November, 2019

Attaquer Le Soleil Marquis de Sade by Etat Libre d'Orange

I mean, if you like labdanum, you'll be in heaven. For the rest of us, it's good, but a bit harsh.

I'd say this is on par with Rien with regard to the stark, brutal nature. It smells of incense, pepper, paint fumes and resins. It's a take-no-prisoners jump into the underbelly of smells.

I can't help but have respect for this, and even own a bottle. As far as wearing it, I have to be in the right mood, which is very rare. I think if I smelled it on someone else, I couldn't help but comment, it's that striking. It makes scents like Avignon and Bois d'Encens seem like water.
10th November, 2019 (last edited: 26th November, 2019)

Don't Get Me Wrong Baby, I Don't Swallow by Etat Libre d'Orange

This is the original "Yes I Do". Diorissimo-light.
10th November, 2019
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Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

Smells like a pumpkin spice latte. I guess there's a time for that? Hard to hate, but not very interesting.
10th November, 2019

Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d'Orange

Vinyl and milky notes. Most wouldn't consider it especially masculine (given the promos), but who cares. It smells great and and is imminently wearable.
10th November, 2019

Une Amourette Roland Mouret by Etat Libre d'Orange

Dirty orange blossom. I don't know what Akigalawood smells like exactly, but I catch a naughty undertone of setting like patchouli, but not patchouli. Weird, but good.
10th November, 2019

Vraie Blonde by Etat Libre d'Orange

ELDO's take on the abstract floral, No. 5 genre, with a twist. Opens fizzy and delicious, and differentiates itself with an unexpected myrrh note. Beautifully done.
10th November, 2019

Eloge du Traitre by Etat Libre d'Orange

I hate fougeres. This is no exception. If you're into that sorta thing though, worth trying as the ingredients are decent.
10th November, 2019

Fat Electrician by Etat Libre d'Orange

It's taken me quite some time to come around to this one, as vetiver-centric scents are typically not my thing.

Having said that, this is a wonderful, unique fragrance. The vetiver is grassy and rooty and unadorned. There was no effort to make it smooth or suave...the best description would be "rooty".

After the initial blast comes the creamy centre, and it makes up for all its rawness. There are several notes listed, but FE is essentially vetiver + vanilla.

TS from "The Guide" sums it up nicely by comparing it to Caron Pour Un Homme, played with vetiver instead of lavender.

Another ELDO that takes a classic and twists it to a modern sensibility.
07th November, 2019

Le Participe Passé by Serge Lutens

Many have missed the grand, oriental style of Lutens of yore. After several odd fresh and floral releases, he has returned to his old style of eastern spices and resins.

PP smells good, I'll give it that. But it's now a well-played tune. Immortelle, pine, spice. That pretty much sums it up. If you want a comparison, mix the curried notes of Chypre Rouge with the coniferous notes of Fille en Aguiles, add a dash of Arabie, and there you have it.

Not bad, but not terribly creative coming from Lutens at this point.
04th November, 2019

Le Cri de la Lumière by Parfum d'Empire

There's no doubt that this is a top notch, high quality floral, impeccably composed in the top and heartnotes. My issue is with the super-sonic soapy musk in the drydown. I may be overly sensitive to this kind of thing, but I find it unwearable as a result.

Still worth trying to see what mileage you get from it. Just wear it with a light hand.
31st October, 2019

Baiser Fou by Cartier

This smells like someone left something on the stove too long...almost by mistake, although I'm sure it wasn't.

Many florals in oil form smell off - ylang, tuberose, mimosa. This smells as if someone naive to this fact composed it. On the contrary, of course. This is well crafted and intentionally left-of-centre. It smells of tropical flowers, vanilla, and passed-due fruit, with a hint of something burnt.

Very clever and worth testing. Not a good blind buy.

16th October, 2019

White Zagora by The Different Company

A lovely, peachy neroli. One might think this would be redundant in TDC's line with the likes of Osmanthus being so similar, yet somehow it differs enough to be warranted. Similar to what makes Osmanthe Yunnan sufficiently different from Osmanthus. Very nice.
10th October, 2019

Korrigan by Lubin

I don't catch many of the listed notes. I'd describe Korrigan as a sweet, milky wood. In other words, a great alternative to the unavailable sandalwood. I do catch a nice incense note, but while a nice touch, it honestly makes me a little nauseous for some reason.

I'd definitely wear this if I wanted something cozy, but I doubt I'd shell out for a bottle (what a beautiful bottle though!) It would make a lovely candle though.
14th September, 2019 (last edited: 11th October, 2019)

Candour by Humiecki & Graef

This is odd, but in a good way. It starts off very green and chewy - it reminds me of the galbanum-narcissus accord of the late Le Temps d'Une Fete by Nicolai. There are also some tropical coconut notes in the background.

The whole thing feels very vibrant. Very hard to make comparisons because it's a one of a kind. Also, the drydown is to die for - quality from top to bottom.

Recommended, but definitely not a blind buy.
10th September, 2019 (last edited: 11th September, 2019)

Blask by Humiecki & Graef

This is very intense. The notes listed above are very accurate - there's a distinct red wine note, and surprisingly, so is the walnut.

Together, the notes read as the smell of skin, which I suppose is the oud (at least the bandaid effect). It reads more as a floral leather, similar to Hermes' Cuir d'Ange).

Not something I personally want to wear, but thumbs up for the novelty.
10th September, 2019

Twilly d'Hermès Eau Poivrée by Hermès

Nothing really poivree about this - more of a tart opening, followed by a lovely, rosy floral accord, unfortunately tainted by a huge woody amber, which Nagel is known to use (see Citron Noir). It's cleverly concealed, so your mileage may vary, but it ruins it for me.

Not bad, but not something I would wear when the genius original is still on the shelves.
26th August, 2019

True Star Gold by Tommy Hilfiger

This is weird. And that's to be expected from Christophe Laudamiel, but not so much from Tommy Hilfiger.

I expected a shampoo-floral, as with Clinique's Happy Heart, but instead, you get this peculiar milky floral with an even more peculiar milky-melon topnote.

Doesn't last very long, bottle is the tackiest thing I own, but now and then you need something simple, but strange. This is that beast.

ps - I don't know my aromachemicals very well, but it's obvious that this contains a large amount of something very familiar (helional maybe?)
21st August, 2019 (last edited: 28th August, 2019)

Happy Heart by Clinique

Gross. If you want to smell like shampoo, but to the power of 10, this is for you. Ignore all the notes. Shampoo. Only shampoo.

From my research I see that Loc Dong is the co-creator of this competent yet horrible monster. I say this because he has yet to author one single perfume that I can stomach.

And because Clinique (ie. Estee Lauder) makes it, it's s-t-r-o-n-g, and only available in Parfum Spray. I got a bit on my index finger when spraying the tester and now I fear I may have to amputate.
06th August, 2019

Dahlia & Vines by Nest

I can't locate any other references that Christophe Laudamiel created this scent - and it's obvious. Generic, pretty floral, as expected from this brand.

If you can find it - Paradise by Nest *is* by Laudamiel and you can tell. It's citrus, but it's weird. And great.
06th August, 2019