Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Eugene Tooms

Total Reviews: 19

L'Homme Sage by Divine

I picked up a bottle of this on my last visit to LA, and once again proved the old adage of "never buy on the strength of reviews". L'Homme Sage ("Wise Man") gets rave reviews all over, but I'm mystified as to why.

It opens with a herbacious saffron and cardamom note; the smallest hint of mandarin is in the mix too but I don't detect any of the lychee that people speak about. The base is a standard and rather insipid woody incense. It turns a bit powdery on my skin and I really don't like powdery fragrances.

For me, a fragrance must delight, intrigue or lift the senses. I find L'Homme Sage to be rather mediocre. It's an interesting experiment and it's okay on a soft autumn afternoon but I shan't be wearing this often.
22nd June, 2015

1996 : Inez & Vinoodh by Byredo

I bought this fragrance in Liberty in London late 2014 and it's been a favourite ever since. It's unlike anything else in my collection; the opening is a delight, with the juniper berries twisting around a heart of orris root and black pepper, before the papery black amber, violet and patchouli notes reveal themselves.

Oddly, 1996 reminds me of wandering around a dusty, sun-dappled library; the scent has a rather papery, bookish appeal, melded with a sweetness that pulls you in and makes you love it. In a word, it's intriguing, both for the wearer and those around them. When I've chosen 1996 as my scent of the day, I've had three people come up to me and ask what fragrance I'm wearing, and they all have the same quizzical expression.

This fragrance won't be to everyone's tastes, but it's definitely in my top five out of the thirty or so niche scents that I own. Try before you buy; you might just find something unique and wonderful.
22nd June, 2015

Cigar Aficionado by Cigar Aficionado

I had read a few reviews of Aficionado online, and was intrigued by its dark, cigar box promise. It's allegedly discontinued but it can easily be found online, very cheaply (it's currently around £8 for 100ml at FragranceX) Unfortunately, it smells cheap too. The initial blast of fresh (unlit) cigar is quite pleasant, but this quickly fades into a treacly liquorice, and then after 20 minutes it mutates into a kind of metallic patchouli.

Overall, I found this to be a rather dated 1970s style fragrance, in the Hai Karate/Brut mode. I've relegated my 50ml bottle to room freshener status.
22nd June, 2015
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Eaux Sanguines : Dom Rosa by Les Liquides Imaginaires

I first tried this scent in the Beverly Hills branch of Barney's New York, and was told that it was inspired by the scent of Dom Perignon Rosé champagne. This turned out to be a perfectly apt description; somehow, to my sheer delight the perfumer has somehow captured the effervescence of champagne (how can a scent be fizzy? It's magic!), coupled with what I perceive to be a fruity midsection and a woody coda.

Unlike other reviewers here I don't find this scent to be particularly long lasting, nor does it project much from my skin, but it is a lovely scent to wear on a warm day and is guaranteed to lift one's mood. The packaging is very good too; the Liquides Imaginaires website is a bit strange with a slightly kinky gothic feel to it, and this is reflected somewhat in the packaging, although it's far more classy than the website hints at. The bottle comes in a sturdy wooden box which pulls open with a satin tab to reveal a canvas bag resting in a drawer inside. The bag has a drawstring neck; gently prise it open to reveal the elegant bottle and rose-hued liquid within.

I've tried the other two fragrances in this line. All three are based on a theme of wine; the other two left me cold but this one is a winner. It's hard to find but worth seeking out.
22nd June, 2015

Cédrat Enivrant by Atelier Cologne

This is a lovely spritz of a summer scent, inspired by the delicious French 75 cocktail (lemon juice, simple syrup, gin, champagne). It's an effervescent swish of citrus love, a true delight to the senses, but there are two big points against it: the scent lasts less than half an hour on the skin, and the projection is very poor.

Now, this is a cologne, so you expect it to be light, but I'm finding I have to spray this 6-7 times for it to have any longevity at all. It's a shame, as the scent is wonderful and it truly lifts the spirits on a hot, sunny day, but unless you carry a bottle or a travel atomiser of this scent with you all day, it'll be gone with the wind before you can truly appreciate it.
22nd June, 2015

Neroli Portofino by Tom Ford

I can't make my mind up about this one. The best I can say is that it's "nice" - which is to say I'm damning it with faint praise. It's pleasant, and opens with a lovely flowing citrus note, then the herbal rosemary base opens up with a hint of lavender over the top. Everything smells very clean and a bit too safe. Longevity is not great - it's gone within a couple of hours. Basically, this is a mass market fragrance selling at a premium, niche price. There are FAR better fragrances in the Tom Ford Private Blend range - Oud Wood, for instance, is one of the best fragrances of the last twenty years - so try it before you buy it.
17th December, 2014

Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka by Hermès

Another winner from the masterful mind of Jean-Claude Ellena. I'm not a fan of most other fragrances in the Hermessence range (I find Santal Massoia to be one of Ellena's worst pieces of work) but Vetiver Tonka is stunning. It's like a great big hug!

Strangely, I don't get a lot of vetiver from this one, despite the name. Instead, it's rich, sweet and nutty, a little bit like a hazelnut caramel latte. It can definitely be worn by both sexes but I'd say it's more of an autumnal/wintry scent, and not something I'd wear in the summer. A (female) colleague is a fragrance hound like myself so I took my bottle of Vetiver Tonka in to work and when she tried it she broke out in a big grin and said "OMG THAT'S MY NEW SIGNATURE SCENT!"

It's by no means a cheap fragrance - I got mine from the Hermes boutique in LAX International (Tom Bradley terminal) with some decent samples thrown in - but it's a very nice luxury item. The packaging is wonderful and the leather-capped bottle comes in its own special fabric bag. I also got a lovely brochure with mine, full of scent notes and arty photographs of the Hermessence range.

Worth a try if you can afford it.
17th December, 2014

Tobacco Rose by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

I bought Tobacco Rose recently, during a visit to Les Senteurs in London. I asked if they had anything new, and the sales assistant plucked the Papillon range from a shelf and let me try the three fragrances in the range. Whilst they were all intriguing, Tobacco Rose was the one that appealed the most to me personally - it's a heady, earthy rose, redolent of slow, late evening walks through an English summer garden after a storm.

The first thing to note is that there's no tobacco in this fragrance, despite the name. Instead, two rose scents intertwine with beeswax, hay, oakmoss and ambergris to create a sensual, heady fragrance that's similar (to my nose, at least!) to Frederic Malle's Une Rose. It's got that same "dirty rose" truffly sexiness to it. It's so addictive that I've taken to spraying my pillow with it before I go to bed; falling into a gentle slumber with wisps of this gorgeous scent around me is a real treat.

Tobacco Rose is an absolute winner, which has gone right to the top of my ever-expanding fragrance collection - trust me, you'll be rewarded if you track this gem down.
17th December, 2014

No. 1 for Men by Clive Christian

Oh dear. Oh dear oh dear oh dear.

Where did this go so wrong? I'm guessing it went wrong at the concept stage, the "concept" being to create "the world's most expensive perfume", as this stuff is marketed, although, almost unbelievably, Clive Christian has managed to mess up that statement, as on the bottle and box we find instead "the worlds most expensive perfume". You'd think someone would pay a little bit of attention to detail, considering this stuff costs $700 for 50ml.

So, what problems do I have with Clive Christian No.1 for Men? Well, it starts with the brief. "Make the most expensive fragrance in the world". If that's your starting point for making a scent, you're in trouble, because you've started out trying to create a scent without regard for what it actually smells like, your only concern being to make it expensive. It's a great marketing ploy, as there will always be people who want something just BECAUSE it's the most expensive. Now, I make a good living and I will always go for quality over quantity, and I don't mind paying handsomely for something of high quality - something finely crafted, durable and, most importantly, something that's the best in its field.

Which brings me back to the scent. I'm not someone who believes "natural is best" when it comes to scent. Sometimes, harvesting a natural product is very harmful to the environment. Sometimes, a synthetic ingredient smells better. Sometimes a synthetic is longer lasting. Better, in other words. So simply stuffing your fragrance with very expensive natural ingredients will NOT necessarily make it good.

Ultimately, this is just not a good scent. It's generic woody-floral with a slightly spicy opening and a powdery heart - powdery notes aren't something I enjoy. The fragrance is produced with one goal in mind: to create the perception of exclusivity and value by deliberately creating something expensive, without regard to whether it's actually any good or not. What they've ended up with, unsurprisingly, is a mediocre scent.
04th August, 2014

Eros by Versace

I've tried this one from a sample for the last week, on and off. It's exactly what you'd expect from a mass market brand - utterly bland, designed to be characterless so as to offend as few people as possible and thereby to appeal to the widest market. It's "nice", up to a point, but it's also instantly forgettable. It doesn't create a mood or enhance one's spirit, it doesn't intrigue or elevate. It just sits there being polite.

Give me something with distinction any day.

07th July, 2014

Oud Save The King by Atkinsons

I tried this one in Barney's department store in Beverly Hills recently. I bought something else and the sales assistant recommended I try it; I loved it right away and took a tester strip back to my hotel, and it was still radiating gorgeous notes two days later, which made me think there must be some high quality ingredients in here. I bought a 100ml bottle when I got home - here are my thoughts.

First, the name. Oud Save the King. It's TERRIBLE. Okay, Atkinsons is an English brand, and our national anthem is God Save the King/God Save the Queen (according to the reigning monarch of the time), and there are two lines in this fragrance range (Oud Save the King for men, Oud Save the Queen for women). But simply replacing the word "God" with "Oud" does not create a pun or a witticism; it's got nothing to do with anything, and it seems contrived and naff to my ears at least.

The packaging is a bit strange as well, with a lurid textured shiny gold cardboard box featuring a black fabric tag with which to pull open the inner case - the bottle itself a bit better, covered as it is in the same burnished gold reflective material, this time without the textured effect featured on the box. The front of the bottle is smoothly curved and the back has a series of angles which makes it nice to hold. The lid is hefty and comes on and off with a satisfyingly positive click; it's textured to match the outer card box, and it looks very smart, even though the overall effect is a bit "bling" (and therefore "cheap") for my tastes. The bottle taken as a whole looks like a gold hip flask, I suppose.

Anyway, enough with the visuals, what about the scent? It's TERRIFIC. It's unlike pretty much any fragrance I've ever encountered, and certainly very different from the mass brands. It opens with notes of Earl Grey tea and a smooth bergamot, but rather than being sharp and citrussy, those two top notes are wrapped around a sultry, leathery/smoky centre which is immediately apparent. There's citriol and leather (specified as "suede" in the official scent notes from Atkinsons) blended with cedarwood, gurjun balm and guiac wood. There is, as far as I can tell, no oud in Oud Save the King, which makes the name even more baffling. Despite that, it's a gorgeous, very classy fragrance, sultry and sinuous, with plenty of projection power. It's fairly linear throughout its life and doesn't descend into powderiness in the dry down. The overall effect is of a warm, sensuous, slightly smoky dark woody scent with unusual hints of lime, but a smooth, silky lime rather than a sharp hit of citrus. Hard to describe, wonderful to experience.

Definitely recommended if you can find it.
07th May, 2014

Velvet Desert Oud by Dolce & Gabbana

Good, intriguing fragrance, but doesn't stand out from the crowd

I grabbed a 50ml bottle of this from a friend in the industry for £85 recently, and as it retails at £170 I snapped it up as a blind buy. Dolce e Gabbana Velvet Desert Oud is relatively new on the market at the time of writing, having been released in Britain in August 2013. I think it's only available through Harrod's, Harvey Nichols and DandG shops here in the UK.

First off, the opening is terrific - it's a soft, sultry, woody incense caress for the first twenty minutes, very classy and sophisticated. There are hints of a smoky amber in there too. It really is a delight.

After the top notes evaporate, the heart starts to come into focus, and the oud starts to wind its way around your senses. This is not the elegant, charming oud of, say, Maison Francis Kurkdjian - it's more towards the "barnyard" end of the oud scale, and it very, very closely resembles Acqua di Parma's Colonia Intensa Oud. On my skin they are almost identical, with the only real difference to my nose being that the AdP is more intense. This is not a bad thing for me personally, since the Colonia Intensa Oud smells foul on me and gives me a headache. In Dolce and Gabbana's Velvet Desert Oud it's basically the same note, in fact I would not be at all surprised to find the oud is from the exact same (synthetic?) source.

It's pretty much a one note show from here onwards, with just a slight smoky muskiness coming in on the fadeout. It's long lasting and projection is good - I can still smell it on my clothes at the end of an 8-hour shift at work.

The packaging, by the way, is absolutely exquisite. The cap has a gorgeous thin soft-touch layer of dense foam around it, which gives a lovely tactile feel of quality when you open the bottle. The smoked gradient of the glass is very fine, and there is a very classy gold coloured metal plate on the front, with the DandG logo and the name of the fragrance pressed into it. The fragrance is a deep gold colour and it seems to resonate inside the shaped chamber made by that smoked glass. It's a fantastic piece of work.

So...overall this is a good addition to my evening/winter fragrances. There is no way I would pay £170 for a 50ml bottle; it's just not "wow" enough nor does it distinguish itself significantly from other similar fragrances on the market, particular the aforementioned AdP Colonia Intensa Oud. If you like the latter, you'll definitely like this, as the middle and base notes are so strikingly similar. The opening notes are the best part of Velvet Desert Oud; think Andy Tauer's l'Air du Desert Marocain with a touch of Illuminum Amber.

Pros: Exquisite packaging. Great initial notes
Cons: Turns into Colonia Intensa Oud clone"

21st October, 2013

Oud Wood by Tom Ford

Terrific - Tom Ford's masterpiece

I bought this in Saks Fifth Avenue in Santa Barbara, CA, having tried it at the airport on my way over from Europe on a business trip. "Wow", is the word I'd pick if I had to choose just one to describe this.

It's rich, dark, complex, masculine, redolent of classiness and intrigue. The opening is beautifully smooth and Oud Wood soon develops a slightly sweet, warm middle age like a hug in an autumn forest. Funnily enough I don't get much in the way of oud from this; it's present but subtle, in a similar way to Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Oud. I sense more of the creaminess of the tonka bean and the fresh-cut sandalwood than the oud, but everything's so harmonious, yet maintaining complexity, that you don't really miss the oud, and there's none of the skankiness that you get with some ouds.

This is now by far my favourite fragrance ever. It works perfectly on my skin and suits my style perfectly. Longevity I'm finding good, sillage perfect (not so strong that it knocks people out, but enough to attract compliments). Price is certainly high, but a little goes a long way. Tom Ford Oud Wood is an absolute knockout!

Pros: Exquisite, complex scent
Cons: None that I can think of"

18th September, 2013
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Cool Water Game by Davidoff

A nothing kind of scent

I'm a big Cool Water fan - I had the original back in the day and have enjoyed many of the flankers since then, with Cool Water Deep being a personal favourite. I was offered Cool Water Game at a heavily discounted price (£10) when I made a purchase in a department store recently, so I didn't hesitate. I kind of wish I had - whilst the initial clean watermelon note is very nice, the fragrance is so ephemeral that it's disappeared completely within half an hour of spraying.

Basically I'm now going to use this as a spritz after sport - a nice post-shower pick-me-up after a long bike ride or a tennis match. As a daywear scent it's completely useless, however. Who wants a scent that has completely evaporated between the time you've got dressed and the time you've arrived at work?

Davidoff, Cool Water, Cool Water Deep - massive thumbs up. Cool Water Game - nope. Not for me.

Pros: Initial watermelon note is nice
Cons: Extremely poor sillage and longevity"

18th September, 2013

Colonia Intensa Oud Concentrée / Colonia Oud Concentrée by Acqua di Parma

Starts well, ends badly

Well...I'm a fan of oud and niche fragrances, so I took the plunge and bought a bottle of this when I found it cheap (well, relatively - I paid £95 and this stuff has an RRP of £170 here in the UK) bottle locally in a department store. A colleague wears Colonia Intensa Oud and I'd tried it before I bought it.

The initial blast is terrific - a kind of winding citrussy thing with dark woody notes underneath. After an hour the oud began to blossom...complex, rich, earthy and heady. I was really enjoying it. But - oh my - after 90 minutes it began to turn on me, and I was left with a powdery, dirty stink. It's hard to describe what it was like but it was a filthy monotone, like some kind of aging excrement. None of my other oud fragrances do this. Oh boy, was I disappointed - I spent £95 on this? It's awful! So bad it gave me a headache. Even after showering five hours later it was still on me. I'd put some on my forearm and even after scrubbing with some black pepper handwash I could still smell it. Obviously my skin chemistry has done something crazy to this.

Anyway, the packaging and presentation of Aqua di Parma Colonia Intensa Oud is terrific; the bottle design is great and the box is satin-lined. So that's a point in its favour.

I'd advise going VERY carefully with this one. DEFINITELY get a sample and try it on yourself for a day or two first. It could be great on you, but for me it's horrendous, and I will be selling mine pronto.

Pros: Extreme longevity
Cons: Turns truly disgusting on me"

18th September, 2013

Oud by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Terrific scent, beautifully balanced

This is the first really expensive niche fragrance that I've owned. At £195 for 70ml (from Liberty department store in London), you don't want to be blind buying this - I tried it in the store then went and had a meal nearby before deciding to go back and purchase. My skin chemistry works really well with it (I've heard that it turns on some unfortunate souls) and it is deliciously complex and masculine.

I own a couple of other oud scents; oddly, this one doesn't knock you on the head with oud (despite the fact that the fragrance is called "oud"!), but for me, that's a good thing. I know people who have bought fragrances where oud is the dominant note and you know what? They smell like sweaty dung. In their heads they've conjured up an image of this recent phenomenon of the world of scent as the "must have" part of their scent wardrobe and have basically over-ridden what their own senses are telling them. "I smell like the rear end of a warthog".

Thankfully, as I said, Oud by Maison Francis Kurkdjian uses this now slightly clichéd note as a caress, an enticement, not a sledgehammer. It's beautifully constructed with a dark, inviting complexity that dries down with a smoky leatheriness, allowing the oud note to spiral around it and send out "come hither" signals. The oud is apparently real, rather than synthetic, and comes from Laos. It's refined and elegant.

Projection is great, and longevity matches it, with one spray being perfectly sufficient to last all day, which offsets the high cost somewhat. I own around 20 fragrances and this one is currently sitting at the top of my list - I will wear it on special occasions, or when I want to impress, and probably always with a suit. It's definitely not a casual fragrance. So there it is - a masterpiece. Definitely try before you buy, but if you're lucky enough to be able to wear this, add it to your collection at once.

Pros: Exquisitely complex, great projection and longevity
Cons: Price!

01st July, 2013

Arabian Amber by Illuminum

One of the better Illuminums

I was lucky enough to visit the Illuminum store in London for a full sampling of all their range last year. This fragrance line is the concept of Michael Boadi, and he's made some specific and rather odd decisions about the construction of each fragrance, e.g. limiting himself to (supposedly) eight ingredients per fragrance. Whilst this gives most of his scents an admirable simplicity, it also seems a little arbitrary: why eight?

The scent line is also very heavily focused on celebrity marketing, another thing which makes me suspicious. We have, I'm sure, all heard the stories that Kate Middleton wore Illuminum's White Gardenia Petals on her wedding day. Piper Leather (the best Illuminum fragrance by far, in my opinion) is allegedly worn by Leonardo DiCaprio, and Arabian Amber is worn by James Franco. Why focus so strongly on alleged links to celebrities? I know that movie stars have promoted perfumes for time immemorial, but there is no official brand association here, just allusions that certain people might be wearing this or that. Why not just let the scent speak for itself?

Anyway, onto Arabian Amber. There are some frankly awful scents in the Illuminum line, but the two stand-outs for me are the aforementioned Piper Leather, and Arabian Amber. It's a woodsy fragrance with a strong middle eastern connection. The top note is bergamot but I don't get a lot of that; instead, the first projection is a resinous woody cedar and incense, with a musky patchouli a little way down in the mix, and you can really pick up the opponax. It's warm, striking and a little smoky, definitely more of an evening or winter scent than a fresh summer number. Projection is good and it lasts fairly well - I can still smell it on my wrist 5-6 hours later.

The scents in this line can be expensive but search around and you can find them much cheaper; I got a 100ml bottle for £45, considerably less than the £100 RRP. Swing by the shop on Dover Street, just north of Piccadilly, and try it out.

Pros: Good longevity and projection
Cons: Illuminum concept starting to wear thin

01st July, 2013

Piper Leather by Illuminum

I tried this fragrance recently and I reallly like it; of the Illuminum range this one and Arabian Amber are the standouts for me. I'm not too keen on their Oud range; I find the oud notes are buried too far down for my liking, but I very much like Piper Leather.

Unlike other reviewers I can pick out the leather note right away, along with pepper and what appears to be coriander. It's definitely much more of a masculine scent although it's claimed that the entire Illuminum range is unisex by design. Piper Leather is a great evening/winter scent, rather than being summery and light, but it turns heads in the right way; it projects a certain masculine confidence.

Definitely a keeper for me.
18th June, 2012

Harrods for Him by Bond No. 9

Absolutely superb fragrance - I can't understand the scathing reviews from some people on this one, though of course fragrance is a highly subjective, personal subject!

I tried this one in the Harrods store in Knightsbridge and found the initial impression of the top notes to be reasonably good, without that "wow" factor...but it soon developed into a different beast altogether, with gorgeous rich, masculine notes all the way through. I've rarely worn a fragrance that has developed so much.

I also wear Riverside Drive and New Haarlem from the Bond no 9 stable, and Cool Water Deep and Tom Ford on other occasions, but Harrods is my absolute favourite. Two people have commented on how nice it is when I've been wearing it. It has good sillage and longevity. It's perhaps more of a winter fragrance as it's towards the heavier end of the spectrum, with the overall impression being elegance, refinement and classiness.

A real gem - big thumbs up from this reviewer!
01st December, 2010