Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Mistertaz


Cologne pour le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Soft, sensuous and sweet. Spiced honey and rose with a hint of animalic carnality. It's a gourmand for adults... Like a dessert with liqueur. Delicious with good longevity and (luckily) very close sillage. Recommended for those with a bent for dark oriental fragrances with a hint of skank!
25th August, 2015

Guerlain Homme Intense by Guerlain

Fresh, conservative and elegant.

Guerlain Homme Intense initially seems generic, and I was going to dismiss it as a typical designer fragrance, but then the genius of creating something mainstream but of quality shows through. Not everyone wants to smell like an Arabian prince, melting plastic, a Catholic priest, a leather sofa or a pair of used gigolo's underwear!

To me it has a really nice opening Caipirinha (rather than Mojito) vibe, with dominant lime, rum and brown sugar notes, which then moves into something more aromatic, like a modern fougere (but please excuse me if this is a completely inaccurate use of the term). Here more herbs and florals emerge with the mint emerging from beneath the lime, blending with what must be the geranium and perhaps subtle lavender. It then moves smoothly to a nice green vetiver and woody cedar base with a hint of sweetness.

Again, I'm sure many experts would disagree with me, but I think this would be a good (more modern and wearable) replacement for Rive Gauche. To be honest, I'm not sure I'll buy another bottle of this as I don't need 'safe' fragrances, but I'll definitely enjoy it while I've got it. Thumbs up!
08th July, 2015

Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler

Mugler Cologne opens with a nice smooth neroli note, which then fades to reveal a dominant vetiver note with soapy musks. It's fresh and clean with limited sillage and longevity, but much more substantial than traditional EDCs.

However, the neroli note is quite flat and the vetiver isn't sharp and grassy OR deep and herbaceous. It's a clear neon green artificial note, stripped of any natural features. It seems quite lean and modern, as if Mugler was working with CdG to make an EDC for robots.

I know that sounds a little exaggerated, but it really feels quite artificial and cold to me, but that may be the sacrifice made for more than fleeting longevity. Given all the praise for this scent, maybe I'm completely anosmic to something amazing in this scent, but I'll take Acqua di Parma Colonia over this all day every day.
20th June, 2015
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Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens

This is a masterpiece... It makes me envision walking through a European pine forest in the rain, with wisps of smoke trailing through the air from the distant camp fires of hunters.

A deep and smooth pine scent makes up the top and heart of the scent, without any sharpness or cheap freshness. It's not aftershave... It's the scent of crushed pine needles.

This then merges smoothly with ambery spices which conjure the image of pine tree sap. The pine stops it from feeling like an Oriental or Gourmand, and I know that tree sap is not sweet, but the combination of sweetness and spices creates the mental image of the sticky resin.

Then this all rests on a woody (perhaps cedar) base to complete the analogy of the tree. However, there's no dryness. It's definitely moist and organic.

Sorry for the longwinded review, but it's definitely one of my favourite fragrances. The longevity is good and the scent is unique, but I have to admit that it won't please everyone. If you are a fan of Creed or designer fragrances and are looking for something which will garner compliments, I would probably direct you elsewhere. But if you are after something interesting, artistic, unique and don't really care what other people think of your scent... Try this. If nothing it will be an experience. :)
04th June, 2015

Full Incense by Montale

A nice but typical austere frankincense style incense. Much like Avignon and Cardinal, but with a nice slightly citric edge which renders it a little more fresh and wearable. Good sillage and longevity. Serious and contemplative. Good to read and work while wearing. Not original, but a good representative of the style. Thumbs up.
28th May, 2015

Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel

My all time favourite... A smooth melange of spices, woods and dusky rose with a sprinkle of sparkly aldehydes. Like chai and champagne...
14th May, 2015

Arso by Profumum

Beautiful. Initially there is sweet pine sap and incense, but then it rapidly begins to smoulder and become both deeper and airier. Pine sap, cedar, incense and smoke. It smells as if you were downwind of a flaming bottle of Serge Lutens' Fille En Aiguilles.

Me: I love it. If it weren't for the price I would regularly wear this.
You: If you're a niche fraghead, then definitely. If you wear designer or Creed, probably not.

Scents with similar elements:
Fille En Aiguilles - Pine sap.
Sycomore - Sweet smoke.
Encens Flamboyant - Fire and burning incense.
16th March, 2014

Silver Mountain Water by Creed

A simple no-nonsense review:

Ignoring all the ludicrous praise heaped on this fragrance, I put Creed's Silver Mountain Water on with no expectations and was quite pleasantly surprised.

It opens with a nice dry black tea scent mixed with the smell of berry herbal tea. The black tea forms a smooth base, with the berry tea notes sitting on top. It then very smoothly moves into a lightly floral watery note with a hint of stone.

I don't think there is much sillage, but the longevity is definitely very good. I sprayed it on at noon and I can still clearly smell it now wafting up from my neck and chest at 8.30pm.

Warning! Wanky interpretation:

Interestingly, I think that the scent very accurately renders the title. The soft tea and berry notes give the impression of the scent of fruiting trees in Spring being blown on the breeze. The watery note with the unusual stoney aspect conjures up the image of a mountain stream, and both themes are linked by the subtly floral aspect of the watery note.


In my (rather uneducated) opinion, Silver Mountain Water is a very well blended and executed fragrance, which doesn't have any sharp edges or jarring transitions. The notes are clear, but soft and obviously cleverly chosen to portray an idea.

I think this would make a lovely work scent, or would go very well with a preppy casual outfit as it has a very clean and elegant vibe. However, despite my positive experience, it's not really my style. As soon as I finish typing this I'm going to have a shower and put on some Serge Lutens! ;)
31st August, 2012

Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf present their new fragrance for 2012... BubblegumBomb!

I passed through a department store today and sprayed some on my hand... It instantly smelled like Hubba Hubba Bubblegum! A fruity citrus (but NOT sharp or refreshing) mixed with cinnamon (flavouring) and sugar. Perhaps there is the slightest hint of tobacco in the base, but that might be my imagination.

All up... on my skin and to my nose... it just smells like bubblegum and would be more appropriately launched by Comme De Garcons and called Candy Series 9: Cinnamon bubblegum. Not for me... but maybe others will enjoy it, and I think it could be quite wearable by a woman (who's 14 and listens to Britney Spears... but then she'd just be chewing bubblegum and smell like it anyway).

NB: I have a very average nose, so please take my brief impression of Spicebomb with a "pinch of salt".

01st February, 2012

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

Inexperienced Review:

If you're wondering what it smells like... it smells *exactly* like its name. It smells of tobacco, as if you've just opened a fresh packet of cigarettes (in a good way) and vanilla.

To my inexperienced nose it smells very simple and linear. There' s no subtlety or progression, it's just tobacco and vanilla. However, the clarity, sillage and longevity of the scent is amazing! It just keeps going and going! I put some on this morning and I can still smell it strongly this evening! Interestingly I find that I smell predominantly tobacco, but apparently the sillage from a distance is more vanilla?!

I enjoy wearing this scent because of the longevity and also because of its simplicity and clarity. What do I mean by that? Just that it's not abstract or ethereal. It is what it is. It's masculine and uncomplicated. It brings to mind a well dressed man in the 50's with a cigarette hanging from his lips.

However, *personally*, the scents that I enjoy the most *are* the ones which are more abstract and use the ingredients to create a memory or paint a mental image, which is something that I associate more with art than just perfumery. Which is why I prefer Serge Lutens Chergui to Tobacco Vanille. However, I think both are sufficiently different and excellent in their own ways to have both.

22nd June, 2011