Reviews by Harvitz81

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    Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's

    This one reads as a classic, Victorian British fragrance all over it. Which is why it may be difficult for me to wear. This is a very powdery floral and rose fragrance from the get go and throughout. It wears pretty linear on me. It might sound feminine from that description, but I think it is totally masculine, but something I don’t think I can pull off. I appreciate it for its classic notes and reigning from the Victorian era, but all in all just not the right rose for me and I generally love rose based fragrances.

    09 February, 2012

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    Esprit du Roi by Penhaligon's

    This one opens up with a standard woody, citrus accord. Some tomato and raspberry leaves join in and later a littler geranium. There are some aldehydes in there and some florals join in the heart as well. In the base, some hints of vetiver, sandalwood and musk come through. There is a lot going on in this fragrance from start to finish and overall it comes through as sophisticated and easy wearing.

    09 February, 2012

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    Sartorial by Penhaligon's

    I won’t bother describing the notes on this one as it has everything and the kitchen sink in there. This is a classic aromatic fougere that evokes images of businessmen in suits sitting around an office hashing it out. It is a very refined and sophisticated scent that bespokes a classic British feel to it as many of Penhaligon’s offerings do. If you are a fan of the fougere genre you must check this out. Classic, refined, sophisticated and simply great stuff.

    09 February, 2012

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    Extract of Limes by Penhaligon's

    This has quite possibly the best opening of any lime fragrance I’ve encountered. I think it tops GFT’s Lime in that department. Really like sticking your head in a bowl of freshly cut limes. However, like GFT, the longevity is very poor and after 30 minutes there really isn’t anything left. If this were an aftershave and about 1/3 the cost it would be fantastic, but as a cologne at the given price I just can’t give it a thumbs up.

    09 February, 2012

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    Elixir by Penhaligon's

    This is a somewhat disappointing woody oriental. Starts out ok with a hint of some florals and spices with some deep woods in there. It then fades rather rapidly and you are left with a prominent rosewood note throughout. Longevity is rather poor and overall this one just doesn’t seem well executed.

    09 February, 2012

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    Eau de Verveine by Penhaligon's

    A very promising opening of citrus containing elements of lemon, lime, bergamot and petitgrain. After 30 minutes to an hour the cirtus notes fade and you are left with something floral with really the only prominent note to me is a heavy sage one. This persists for a couple hours before everything disappears. Overall it really isn’t a bad fragrance, but doesn’t really have a wow factor or longevity. Probably pretty reminiscent of the time period it is from.

    09 February, 2012

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    LP No. 9 by Penhaligon's

    A very green and floral one. Starts with a little citrus notes, but the green and floral notes take over quickly. The green tarragon and floral jasmine are the two notes that stand out most to me. Settles into a slight spicey and vanilla accord towards the end, but overall not that interesting and not my cup of tea.

    09 February, 2012

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    LP No.9 for Men by Penhaligon's

    I get the citrus and bergamot opening that lasts for about an hour before it starts to morph into a spicy oriental. To this point it is wearing quite nice, but then the clove note starts to come through. I can handle clove in small amounts, but this is a bit much. After awhile the clove mixes with vanilla, which I think turns this one even more for the worse. This is quite strong stuff so you don’t need much, but ultimately is not something for me.

    09 February, 2012

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    Castile by Penhaligon's

    This is a great summer scent in the lines of a classic EdC. Starts a bit citrusy in the same veins as AdP, but quickly settles into a very nice orange and neroli throughout. There is some hints of florals in their (rose?), but overall a very nice and pretty much linear classic summer cologne fragrance that wears pretty light.

    09 February, 2012

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    Opus 1870 by Penhaligon's

    This is all about spicy (peppery), woods (cedar), and rose. The cedar is prominent from the get go and is supported by the pepper and some coriander. There are hints of some rose after a couple hours, but they are more supportive than a front liner. A bit of musk in the dry down, but overall a very nice, refined British scent. Of the Penhaligon’s line, this is the most modern based scent to what is coming out today and it is well done.

    09 February, 2012

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    Zizonia by Penhaligon's

    A spicy, woody, floral concoction to my nose. It starts with some black pepper, but immediately I detect some floral accords that may be geranium. Some other spices enter into the mix and it develops that house “Penhaligon’s” note of dusty, powdery accords that I don’t like in many of theirs. Some slight woods and vetiver in the base, but the dusty notes carry through. Longevity is not all that great and I find this one overall pretty middle of the road.

    09 February, 2012

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    Juniper Sling by Penhaligon's

    This has an upfront blast of juniper and citrus rinds. Quite a powerful initial burst. The Juniper and Gin like notes quickly dissipate though and you are left with a very light musky/soap dry down. Longevity is rather poor and the very promising opening leads to an immediate let down.

    09 February, 2012

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    Rose Oud by By Kilian

    This one has a very strong and sharp rose opening. A bit acidic, but quickly calms down. The rose is persistent throughout and is accentuated with saffron and a very small amount of oud. The oud really takes a backseat to the rose here and I guess that is my biggest problem with this one. It wears pretty linear throughout and is basically a rose-saffron-oud fragrance. It definitely is a silage monster and longevity is not an issue at all. While I think it is obviously high quality and well done, I like my oud a little more to the forefront and prefer something more in the Montale line where the oud generates a darker presentation of the rose. For the price I can’t help but think you would be much better off going for one of the Amouage attars that are a combination of rose-saffron-oud. But, compared to Pure Oud out of the same line this one at least comes close to resembling what was intended.

    08 February, 2012

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    Iris 39 by Le Labo

    This is a very nice iris fragrance. It starts off a little too floral for me with some green notes, but not over the top. After 1-2 hours it settles down quite a bit into a lovely iris note with hints of carrot notes as mentioned by other reviewers. It is a little on the rooty/earthy side, but all in all it is fantastically down.

    08 February, 2012

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    Vetiver 46 by Le Labo

    Starts off rather dry and smoky. Almost incense like and a little reminiscent of the smokiness in Patchouli 24. There is a bit of wood notes in there and not much real vetiver to begin with. After awhile the vetiver note emerges and again is on the dry side. Not rooty, or raw – just a dry woody vetiver note that persists throughout retaining some of the smoky qualities from the beginning. While it is a good scent and sure not to displease anyone, I like my vetivers a bit more interesting and this just doesn’t do a lot for me. In the field of wonderful vetiver fragrances available, this one hovers squarely in the middle of the pack.

    08 February, 2012

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    Santal 33 by Le Labo

    I wouldn’t categorize this one as a classic sandalwood scent. The sandalwood is there, but to me it isn’t the major player. This one has a very woody vibe to it, but in a different sense as to me it seems like a “bark” like note is the major player. I’m not sure how to describe it other than that as I haven’t smelled anything quite like it before. Maybe it is the ambrox. Maybe there is some guaiac wood in there, but the cedarwood isn’t really what I’m smelling. In fact I get very little cedar from this and it is this other wood note that is the major player. This one is great from start to finish and is quite strong on me. Apply with caution.

    08 February, 2012

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    Rose 31 by Le Labo

    This is a dry, woody rose fragrance from the get go. The rose hits you from the beginning and is slightly floral and green (though not green in the vein of L’Ombre Dans). There is cedar and cumin from the start as well and they play a great supporting cast. These notes persist throughout and this one has great longevity. The rose does fade a bit and you are left with a cedar and cumin dominant fragrance towards the end. If the dark roses are too much for you, then you most certainly need to give this one a shot.

    08 February, 2012

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    Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

    A very powerful and smoky birch tar opening laced with a little tobacco. Some sweet patchouli emerges, but this remains smoky throughout and wears pretty linear from the get go. After many hours I can detect a little wood notes and some sweet fruit notes, but that isn’t until well into the dry down. This one projects well and lasts forever. I happen to like this one quite a bit.

    08 February, 2012

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    Oud 27 by Le Labo

    As with a lot of Le Labo’s, the name on the bottle is not characteristic of the scent. This one opens with some animalistic accords, medicinal type oud notes, and some sourness. The medicinal aspects and animalistic notes fade rather quickly and you are left with a slightly incense and woods scent that wears very close to the skin. If you are looking for a synthetic analogue of the Arabian oud’s, I suggest you look elsewhere.

    08 February, 2012

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    Labdanum 18 / Ciste 18 by Le Labo

    This one reminds me an awful lot of Lutens Ambre Sultan. It has that oriental amber/vanilla thing going for it. It gets a bit powdery after the resinous top wears through and overall just doesn’t do a lot for me. Definitely left me wanting more and I don’t find this one all that great.

    08 February, 2012

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    Bergamote 22 by Le Labo

    This is a nice summer scent, but not an eye opener great one by any means. It has hints of bergamot and petit grain throughout and is quite lone lasting. Still though, for the price it is essentially a well composed, clean, crisp citrus that you can find similarly or better done from other houses.

    08 February, 2012

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    Amouage Homage by Amouage

    This is one of the most beautiful rose fragrances I’ve encountered. It opens up with a very light rose in the sense that it isn’t overpowering and cloying, but deep in that it is ever present. There is a touch of the silver frankincense that comes through and some slight woody oud notes. None of the animalistic, medicinal oud, but just the light ever present woody qualities. This lasts forever being an oil and is just a luxury to wear. Maybe slightly feminine, but I certainly have no qualms about wearing it. Great stuff.

    12 January, 2012

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    Tribute Attar by Amouage

    A very resinous silver frankincense greats you in the opening of this one. Deep, rich and fantastic. Whereas the other attars I’ve tried begin with the rose note, the Turkish rose comes into this one a little later and provides more of a support to the frankincense than the main player. It just works out very well. The heart takes you to a deep forest before the ultimate ending of an animalistic leather and rich tobacco that persists for hours. Projection and silage are great on this as is the longevity. Very powerful stuff and really might be the best from the amouage line I’ve tried. Bottle worthy – oh yeah.

    12 January, 2012

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    Ciel Man by Amouage

    The lightest of amouage’s that I have tested. This opens up with a citrus and floral beginning. Hard to really isolate any notes as it seems to be the case with many of amouage’s offerings. The citrus fades and you are left with a clean and bright floral accord. Hints of lavender and light rose pop in and out during the drydown. I would say this is Amouage’s take on a light, fresh everyday work scent that would not displease anyone. Still though, I don’t find it thoroughly interesting enough to justify the cost.

    12 January, 2012

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    Opus III by Amouage

    I’ve found that I’m very sensitive to fragrances containing Mimosa and this notes stands above the rest on initial application. It is just too much and choking on me in the same way that C&S’s mimosa is. Once the mimosa settles down, jasmine and violet accords enter. Very floral and feminine to this point. After the florals finally wither away you are left with a creamy, woody base. The base is the most enjoyable aspect of this one, but hardly anything that I want to sit throught the dreadful opening to get to.

    12 January, 2012

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    Silver Cologne by Amouage

    A very powdery citrus opening. Too powdery and almost choking. There is a bit of that characteristic Amouage frankincense that emerges, though much more subdued than other offerings from this house. Some Patchouli, oakmoss and wood accords enter in the base, but the floral and powdery notes from the start drown everything out. Not too enjoyable throughout the entire fragrance.

    12 January, 2012

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    Memoir Man by Amouage

    This is a very dark fragrance that wears very close to the skin. Opens up with a very green absinthe note. The characteristic amouage frankincense note emerges, but is very dry and dark. The dry down remains dry with some oakmoss coming into play and possibly a little ashy tobacco. I get no leather notes out of this. Basically, the whole fragrance wears like a standard aromatic fougere with amouage’s frankincense lurking in the backgroup. I thought I’d love this fragrance looking at the notes, but overall it is pretty underwhelming.

    12 January, 2012

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    Ubar Woman by Amouage

    Like Gold, this one opens with an intense floral blast and a touch of civet and frankincense. It is more bearable that the aforementioned Gold, but still very floral and feminine. It lacks the overall powdery notes I get with Gold. The florals remain throughout and in the base some vanilla and sandalwood come through. Still overly feminine for me, though unlike Gold this one is not unbearable.

    12 January, 2012

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    Lyric Man by Amouage

    This is a very nice woody, floral rose scent. Well constructed with rose permeating throughout. The rose is light in the beginning and becomes more prominent throughout. In the heart the frankincense merges wonderfully with this and I can’t stop smelling myself throughout the day. It is a bit floral and a bit feminine, but it doesn’t bother me as everything is just so balanced and high quality. I feel there are better masculine roses out there (88 and DC 1913 to name a few) and for the price of this you should explore all these options before plucking down on a bottle on this. Really good stuff, but for me it’s not bottle worthy.

    12 January, 2012

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    Gold Man by Amouage

    Wow. This one hits you immediately with a blast of intense florals and civet. It is almost unbearable and persists for over an hour. A huge powdery note begins to form and this pretty much progresses as a floral, powdery, aldehyde bomb. This is definitely more on the feminine side of things and at least the drydown is tolerable. It definitely takes someone who will love a musty floral fragrance to pull this off. As with all Amouages, this one is a powerhouse and lasts forever. In my case this was a bad thing.

    12 January, 2012

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