I applaud Amouage for straying from their usual frankincense and myrrh formula. That being said this one just misses the mark.
I will say with Reflection that the notes come across musty and have a sickly, balmy and powdery sweetness throughout. The combination of jasmine and spices in this fragrance make it come across to me like a try-too -hard, fill the room glade air freshener.
Keep in mind this is all coming from someone who used to own a bottle and did a 180 to NOT liking the fragrance. This is the first time in my fragrance journey this has happened, so take that for what it is worth.
Uomo may be the quintessential generic fragrance (a pretentious label I do not normally give out), smelling like the plasticy/deodorant knock-off of a knock-off of a dollar-store-copy of a 90's fresh scent. What's completely offensive is at $70 or whatever is being charged for this, it is literally indistinguishable from the dollar store alternative. Save yourself the $69 and go to your local Dollar Tree (note: I do endorse or work for The Dollar Tree).
1/10, which also makes for my first 1/10 score. Congratulations Uomo.
Like many Montales it begins with a ungodly blast of medicinal oud. This one in particular comes across as an already-bold dude in leather who has also happened upon some testosterone syringes (yep, it's masculine).
Where Dark Aoud went astray with too much band aid and muddled spices this one smooths out and sweetens up a bit overtime with the help of the help of the musk and saffron. The dark woodiness is always present. This one is awesome and it performs like most Montales, need I say more?
With the recent oud craze it seems there is a wide continuum for fragrances ranging from the "barely oud present" and the "oud dominant", most Western fragrances lying near the former.
It's great to finally see what a proper "oud dominated" fragrance smells like that doesn't also smell like barnyard feces (I am looking at you Oud 27 and Leather Oud).
I really like this one. I can pick up an earthiness/incense in the background but this seems primarily like pure oud. It smells much more natural than the oud found in the Montale line and I enjoy it quite a bit, especially with it being free of STANK.
It took me awhile to find a masculine rose that I really enjoy, but here it is: Lumiere Noire Pour Homme.
Most rose fragrances wear too powdery and feminine for my taste (Lyric Man, Baie Rose 26). The ones that are masculine enough (Rose 31) are simply boring and lacking in the Rose intensity; not the mention the hoard of Rose-Aoud combos which are tiresome.
Lumiere Noire manages to have a prominent Rose note, but together with the Patchouli and cinnamin, comes across as completely unisex if not leaning masculine. The spiciness in this one is significantly more biting and entertaining than that in Rose 31. The "biting" top does calm down after awhile and the fragrance continues to improve throughout its scentlife.
Performance is off the charts, both with projection and longevity.
The floral genre will never be my favorite but this one stands out as an exception.
Memoir Man opens very green with a tenacious mint and wormwood presence that is equal parts herbal, alcoholic (absinthe) and outdoorsy. The woods, tobacco and incense come more to the forefront as the scent progresses through the middle and the wormwood and mint die down.
The fragrance lingers for some 8-10 hours and slowly moves closer to the skin. Lacking the oud, heavy smoke and dried fruit found in other Amouage fragrances I believe this is one of the easiest to wear in the lineup. That being said it retains an incredible amount of complexity, depth and note progression throughout the wearing.
It is entertaining, dark and mysterious - the best in the line.
Tuscan leather is the background smell of a Scorsese crime drama. The bold leather note is accompanied by an equally bold (and opulant) raspberry note. As the fragrance dries down the leather smoothes out, the saffron comes forward, and the raspberry remains although less punchy sweet. Throughout the whole affair fresh cigarette ashes linger in the background. The sillage is powerful and the longevity is nuclear, especially on clothes. The timid best stay away from this as Tuscan Leather will wear the weak.
22nd October, 2013 (last edited: 18th March, 2014)
Being a big fan of Pure Malt and Coffee I was surprised for my distaste for this one. I have worn it several times and tried so hard to like it, but in the end it's still just a really-bad-heavy- tar-stank-bomb. Anyone I've been around in the testing process seems to agree. The fact that it mellows out about 2/3 the way through its 15 hour nuclear longevity is not enough of a consolation.
20th May, 2013 (last edited: 01st February, 2014)
A realistic interpretation of the ocean; and by that I mean, all the positive traits. There is a strong citrus note, salty ocean water, and even a green seaweed/algae type note. However, it's never dirty - no dead fish here. There is a cleanness about it that can be related to seafoam, easy to picture because of the overall soapiness of the fragrance. It's great.
20th May, 2013 (last edited: 19th January, 2014)
I cannot imagine doing a mint note any better than the one in this Heeley. It's neither toothpasty or overly leafy/herbal (e.g Roadster). I reach for this all the time, though I tend to wear it only casually.
Fresh, Green, Classic
It's a fantastic fresh green scent, with the signature Creed ambergis which always adds a welcome creaminess to the fragrance. GIT is great for all weather and occasions. One of my frequently used work scents.
This is a fantastic and seductive scent. If I could only own 3 fragrances, this would be one of them. I have only worn the original so I can't speak for the reformulation, but it projects well, lasts a long time and the sweet vanilla/cocoa drydown is velvety smooth. This one will make you stand out.
A very classy masculine scent. Confidence inducing. I agree that this would be getting even more rave reviews if it did not have Oud in the name.
With L'Humaniste you get an can an initial blast of citrus and gin. For the first hour or two it maintains the "prickly" sharpness that the gin/juniper give out but all the while there is a creaminess in the background. The creaminess amps up as the fragrance dries down. Given the horrible longevity of 1270 I was surprised on repeated wearings this one has quite good longevity (with 5 sprays). I actually got a compliment (from someone who was admittedly very close) over 12 hours after application. That being said good sillage only lasts about 4-6 hours, but overall I'm satisfied with the performance. This is a scent that on paper and first-sniff might seem generic or "done before" but it is surprisingly well blended and has a satisfying bright/fresh quality to it. 4.5/5
Another good one from the Mugler house. I can't say that I particularly pick up on the claimed "peat" note, but it is boozy and sweet nevertheless. Sillage is good, though it starts to die down quickly after 4 hours. After that it will stay close to the skin for another 6. It's much more versatile and IMHO more appealing than the original.
A great coffee scent. I do not understand those who that do not get coffee, or call it fleeting, in this fragrance. While it may not smell like 100% french roast on my skin I have yet to find a fragrance that smells more like coffee (and this would include New Haarlem). Of course the coffee is accompanied with chocolate, musk and patchouli and the fragrance in general resembles the A*Men middle and dry down, which is great for me because there is no tar note.
At first I thought the sillage and longevity were bad but then I tried 3-4 sprays instead of 1-2 like I would with A*Men and I got 7-9 hours on my skin and good sillage for 5 hours.
This one plays a back and forth game with Pure Malt as my favorite Mugler fragrance.
This is a simply a great quality Summer fragrance for the price - at least for now. Prices will be going up as it gets more scarce (2009). I certainly prefer this version to the original as it is not as thick and is less floral, though the floral is still present. The citrus is amped up and it has that mood enhancing sharpness to it. I get a lot of tangerine, but apparently this is the yuzu. Overall the notes are well blended. The sillage and longevity are excellent for this type of scent. I get 6-8 hours. This does great in the Summer, but it can wear year-round especially in the office.
As others have said this one has obvious similarities to Bvlgari Black. It also compares pretty closely with Dior Homme Intense and Armani Code. Although I do not like it as much as DHI, it has that certain sex appeal that missing from the "nice guy" smelling Code. I have only tried the Edt and get 5-7 hours of longevity, average projection. It's a very warm and comforting scent.
Here are my two cents. Armani code was one of my first fragrance purchases (Coaxed strongly from girlfriend). That I would describe as the gist of the fragrance: women do seem to like it quite a bit. For me it tends to get a bit boring and linear.
Midnight in Paris does the same thing but blows this away. Not purchase worthy IMO.
09th April, 2011 (last edited: 08th November, 2012)
This is my favorite gourmand. Carmel drizzled on coffeecake with a dash of brown sugar and maple syrup. Think sweet, but dark and rich sweet. This is all served with, of course, a 16 oz drip coffee which wafts in with clouds of coffee goodness from the background.
People compare this to Rochas Man. To me the comparison is the same as that between Millesime Imperial and SJ Unforgiveable, which is to say: they certainly bare some resemblance to each other, but one if far superior to the other. Rochas Man begins to reach towards New Haarlem, but it is not nearly as complex or satisfying.
Overall, New Haarlem is a masterpiece and a must buy for any gourmand lover.
This one reminds me some of Polo Double Black and Bulgari Black, but I like it more than both of those. Good projection/sillage, but not too loud for the office. Longevity is impressive. 9/10
22nd December, 2010 (last edited: 30th December, 2010)