Perfume Reviews

Reviews by LiveJazz

Total Reviews: 166

Le Vetiver by Carven

A sharp, somewhat herbal green, citrus opening that reads as cool-spicy to my nose kicks things off, with just a touch of sweetness to smooth things out. Well done and smooth, maybe a tiny bit synthetic here...but in an intentional and modern way. I get where others are coming from with the old school vibes.

The surprising reference that came to mind for the first 30 minutes or so was a modern take on Creed Vetiver '48 (love!), and I wonder if there's some ginger hidden in there.

A short aromatic phase (a very dry lavender) follows, and feels like we're heading in a fougere-ish direction, which may account for the Rive Gauche references, but then it swerves quickly to becoming a pretty dry, surprisingly smoky, woody, pure vetiver to my nose. The closest analog to me is actually Sycomore, or maybe a less intense Encre Noir (which is basically what Sycomore is to me), with a slight spicy barbershop flair. Nothing wild, but purely enjoyable, high quality, uplifting versatility.
23rd June, 2017

Sauvage by Christian Dior

Sauvage is...strange. As others have said, it smells alien and unnatural. The Comme des Garcons Odeur scents remind of Sauvage - they're all plastic and electronics and lightbulbs and printer toner and stuff.

Neither take on this ultramodern synthetic theme is particularly pleasant to me, but at least Comme des Gacons did it with subtlety and intention. Sauvage is loud, sweet, and grating. The notes are incredibly difficult for me to pick apart. The opening I shall call "HyperFruit" with "UltraSpice".

There's this high-pitched buzz to the entire proceeding, like a fluorescent bulb, that gradually intensifies through the ambroxan base. This gives me a headache.

I will say that there are some interesting things going with the sillage. Sauvage brings to mind a well-calibrated machine that generates a fragrant force field set to a specific radius and intensity. It's like wearing a machine.
23rd June, 2017

32° N by Lili Bermuda

Garden variety Cool Water clone. Move along.
10th May, 2017
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Thé Noir 29 by Le Labo

The Noir 29 opens with an absolutely lovely fig/tea/spice opening that takes the fig note in a uniquely dry and aromatic direction. Unique and highly wearable. I love the opening accord - and it lasts quite awhile.

As the middle and base approach, the dry and aromatic tea very gradually morphs into more of an agricultural hay note, and you don't really realize what's going on until all of the sudden...where did that hay come from? This is a distinctly "wet" and somewhat sweet hay with the addition of tobacco and musk (big contrast with the relatively dry feel of the tea in the opening), and I'm starting to worry that this is going in a murky and swampy I'm not going to like.

Luckily, the hay dries out and cedar as vetiver enter the picture. And there it stays until the end. A (still surprisingly strong) woody hay note with a shading of fig and tea in the background. Longevity and projection are both fairly impressive. Really good and interesting stuff.
08th May, 2017

Indian Wood by Parfumerie Generale

I'm a big fan of using coconut as an alternative to more traditional powdery notes like vanilla, amber, or tonka, and Indian Wood uses it deftly and to great effect.

The opening is a little odd - I get a kind of spicy/green suntan lotion vibe which isn't entirely pleasant, but it soon smooths out and we get an accord I'd describe as "creamy cool spices" - the combo of mint, cardamom, and coconut, I guess. There's a woody/mossy structure underneath, but it remains fairly recessed on me, and Indian Wood remains mostly a sweet/creamy scent - with the kind of light/sweet aura that really sings in summer. Decent performance for this type of scent. Thumbs up.
28th April, 2017

Oud Silk Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

What Oud Silk Mood has to do with silk, I have no idea. This stuff is harsh. It lunges aggressively out of the bottle with searing notes of metal, rubber, smoke, and oh yeah, some thin and medicinal oud and rose in the background.

About 10 minutes after I applied it for the first time, my wife said, "What the hell are you wearing?! It's so strong I can *taste* it." I agree; it sticks in your nose and leaves a lingering taste of pennies on the tongue for about 30 minutes.

It does settle down a little bit as we enter the heart, but I still fail to see this is as a rose and oud dominant scent. The primary accord is arid like an industrial dryer: a papery (papyrus?), herbal (burnt chamomile?) accord with a backbone of, oh I don't know, but the word "acid" comes to mind. I can imagine a paper manufacturing facility smelling something like this. There's a twist of medicinal woody oud in there somewhere, and really very little rose to speak of.

In summary, I find it aggressive and unpleasant throughout.
28th April, 2017

Back to Black by By Kilian

Back to Black smells attractive when sniffed periodically, but it remains unflinchingly dense, heavy and sweet, and doesn't display the kind of deft evolution required for this kind of scent to remain interesting and wearable for me.

As others have mentioned, what you smell on top - basically a big, wet pipe tobacco note with burnt sugar and honey - is what you get until the end. Minimal evolution. The accord is nice, but it quickly gets cloying, and I wish the scent would dry out a bit more. The strong honey note makes for a compelling experience in that it brings out a distinctly wet and animalic tone in the tobacco note. I think there's a great opportunity here to keep that animalism alive and tone down the mushy, wet sweetness. Performance is strong, but at this price point, I simply expect a more dynamic experience.
27th April, 2017

Petit Matin by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This is primarily a modern, bright, orange blossom perfume, backed by a good but fairly standard wood/musk base (ambroxan, I guess, used with deftness). I enjoy it. It's a little synthetic at times - like smelling orange blossoms in full bloom next to a very classy laundry facility in a nice part of town.

Contrary to the listed lemon and litsea cubeba (citrusy smelling plant) notes and the references to Lemon Pledge in other reviews, the orange blossom jumps out at me immediately and stays front and center throughout, though I will say there's a general tartness that brightens the orange bloom - a good move for a note that can feel a little heavy as a true soliflore. If you're a fan of the note, this is a very nice option.

It's nothing exciting and not something I'd purchase at this price point, but not a bad scent at all for summer or fans of orange blossom. Performance is strong for this type of scent. Reserved thumbs up from me.
27th April, 2017

Le Vetiver Itasca by Lubin

Le Vetiver Itasca is a high-quality fragrance with one jarring accord that sticks out to my nose just enough to keep me from giving it a thumbs up.

The top is great, and refreshing. I mainly get a floral grapefruit with a backbone of something slightly nutty, smooth and satisfying. I wish this phase lasted longer. It's unique and really works for me.

Scent Detective mentioned astringent note in the middle, and that sums up the problem for me. It might be the mixture of clove and nutmeg, very sharp spices that complete with the lingering grapefruit in a kind of sour tug of war that I don't find pleasant. This phase lasts too long.

The base is a perfectly nice woody, somewhat spicy, fougere-ish barbershop-ish vetiver that's very versatile. No fireworks, but a really high quality accord. Longevity and sillage are both average.

I'm on the edge of a thumbs up, but can't fully recommend Itasca to the extended astringent/sour phase in the heart.
13th April, 2017

Oud Palao by Diptyque

This is the oud I've been waiting for! Are there too many rose-ouds on the market? Yes, but this is the best I've smelled, so I'm happy.

Oud Palao starts in a somewhat predictable manner: a big, sweet, somewhat animalic, medicinal oud note takes center stage, accompanies by a nice rose note. Here we go again, same ol’ stuff, I thought. Wrong. The jammy quality of the oud subsides quickly, and the rose, while present, largely recedes to the background.

The oud note is simply the driest and most natural I’ve smelled. Now, I’ve never actually smelled a hunk of oud or pure oil, but I can tell when an oud note is smothered, often to mask deficiencies. Oud Palao’s oud is dry, resinous, and smells like a fantastic wood note, that just happens to be oud.

And it sticks around…the accord never morphs into a generic woody-oriental base. It’s oud all the way, baby, in all its glory. Because it’s so pure smelling, it’s very versatile…while of course maintaining the inherently unique nature of the oud note itself. Realistically, the sandalwood note probably helps create this uniquely woody feel, but it never actually smells like sandalwood. A light patchouli backbones lens a bit of depth, but doesn’t call attention to itself.

It’s the tone and tenor or Tam Dao, filtered through an oud lens. And that’s a great thing.
12th April, 2017

Oscar for Men by Oscar de la Renta

I have a long history of buying and enjoying underappreciated cheapies, and as a pepper lover, I thought Oscar for Men would be right in my sweet spot.

Unfortunately, it wasn't to be. The citrus and pepper opening (and really the entire evolution) feels harsh and chemical to me. I'm OK with dry and sharp scents, but it's a category where the composition really needs to be top notch.

If shortcuts are taken, what would otherwise be a bracing, pointed statement of resolutely masculine freshness, turns into whining dental drill of sharpness. And that, I'm afraid, sums up Oscar for Men.
21st March, 2017

Memoir Man by Amouage

One of the very first Basenotes reviews of Memoir Man calls it "Sycomore on steroids." I thought the same thing, and I'm glad to have company. In four words: green powdery vetiver tobacco.

After reading so many reviews calling Memoir Man dark, inky, black, unforgiving, etc., I was surprised to find a soft, well-behaved, leafy tobacco and powdery woody/vetiver accord with (to me) a relatively demure frankincense presence that serves more to lend a kind of cool-chalky-powdery feel to the development. I get just a hint of sandalwood.

The opening is fun and pleasant and even a little refreshing, and not challenging at all for me. A little alcoholic absinthe mixed with a bracing mint. This, along with the cool frankincense note serves as a great counterpoint to the dry vetiver and sweetish tobacco and musk in the heart and base.

My only quibble is that, as others have pointed out, this isn't terribly unique after the opening. But I can't hold the fact that there are many good vetiver/woody/incense scents against Memoir Man. It's certainly at or near the top of the bunch.
21st March, 2017

Bois des Îles by Chanel

Bois des Iles the best sandalwood fragrance I've smelled, and one of the best fragrances I've experienced, period. There are aldehydes, florals, and semi-sweet fruit and spice notes in the opening - but they're so well blended that it's nearly impossible to pick them apart from the perfectly harmonious whole. There's an unbelievable sensation of smoothness.

The accord morphs fairly quickly into a surprisingly direct sandalwood phase. The florals recede, and we're left with a semi-dry, somewhat powdery sandalwood note. It's glorious. So many sandalwood scents bury the note with fillers and try too hard to augment some facet of the note, with often unfortunate results. For that reason, I've been underwhelmed by most sandalwood scents I've tried. Bois des Iles lets the sandalwood augment the character of the rest of the accord, instead of the other way around. The sheer quality of ingredients here is what makes that approach work. Few scents in this price range are so clearly worth their price.

Men and women can easily wear it. Quality is top notch. It's unique, yet extremely comfortable to wear. People love it. Outstanding.
03rd March, 2017
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Number 3 / Le 3ème Homme / The Third Man by Caron

Caron's Third Man is an almost unbelievably well-composed and beautiful fougere. The opening is rather intense, with buckets of gorgeous lavender and florals, and a very slight animalic background note. The accord settles into a bright yet sleek, relatively sweet and powdery heart as the tonka and moss of an ulta-smooth fougere base come into focus. The lavender - and this is a lavender note for the ages - sticks around and lends the evolution just the right amount of "bite".

While Third Man is quite sweet throughout its evolution, there's a bright coolness - from what, I don't know - that keeps it from feeling heavy or musty in any way. Excellent quality and a pleasure to wear year round. Outstanding longevity and sillage. Highly recommended.
22nd February, 2017 (last edited: 08th April, 2017)

Sagamore by Lancôme

Sagamore is an impeccable floral cyphre with a well-judged oriental component. Absolutely top quality ingredients. After a somewhat bright lavender/floral opening and heart, we get a very literal mossy cyphre structure in the base.

There's a strong connection to Caron's Third Man through the floral heart of jasmine and lavendar, but where Third Man verges toward a sweetened fougere base, Sagamore goes for a deep mossy cyphre profile, augmented just the right about with amber and possibly a drop of civet. Much like Third Man, a butter smooth, fantastic lavender note is along for the ride through most of the evolution.

Projection and longevity leaves a bit to be desired, but this is a case where outright quality trumps performance. If you want to know what a great masculine cyphre smells like, look no further.
22nd February, 2017

Quorum by Antonio Puig

Do you like big, mossy, woody, leathery tobacco scents that take no prisoners? Do you enjoy cumin? If you answered "yes" to both of these questions...or even just one of need to try Quorum.

The opening is a little scattered. There's a lot going on. The actors are all trying to find their place on stage, and it takes a few moments for something pleasant to emerge - but oh, when it does, we get this amazingly deep herbal/piney/smoky/dusty/leather/tobacco chord that basically forms the backbone of Quorum until the end. It's brighter, with more emphasis on the herbal/pine in the opening, and gradually deepens into a dry-ish leather/moss/tobacco accord that feels very "alive" and dynamic on skin. Totally masculine, but not a caricature.

Cumin is present to varying degrees throughout. It contributes to the "sweaty" impression, depending on the circumstance. Quorum can easily turn into a thick, gloomy, smoker-BO nightmare if applied heavily in warm weather.

But when applied in moderation in cooler weather, it's dusty, crunchy, savory and just very satisfying. So on me, it's a fall and winter scent *exclusively*, though it could be my skin. I do love cumin in general, but it's a little temperamental here, and requires the right conditions. With that caveat, Quorum is one of my favorite cool-weather scents.
08th November, 2016

Acqua di Lavanda Ambrata / Amber Lavender by Santa Maria Novella

Extremely natural, clear lavender opening. One of the best I've smelled. It's not piercing or sharp as some lavenders tend to be when presented in a colder, more soapy format - or when ingredient quality leaves something to be desired. This is a life-like, three dimensional lavender.

The closest relative here (and really, throughout) is Caron Pour Un Homme...but Santa Maria Novella seems much simpler and drier to me. The Caron is a shape-shifter, sometimes augmenting the lavender, sometimes smelling quite herbal and spiky, sometimes too high on the vanilla cream side. The SMN is more predictable - maybe slightly less interesting, but something I'm more likely to reach for.

The amber drydown is of the dusty, almost mineralic sort that's easy to wear in any weather, and on any occasion. The overall impression basically formal and traditional - filtered through a minimalist, elegant, modern prism that really highlights the high quality on display here. Great stuff, and a favorite of mine in both the amber and lavender categories.
19th October, 2016 (last edited: 21st November, 2016)

Salvador Dali pour Homme by Salvador Dali

Salvador Dali Pour Homme opens with a sharp, herbal, astringent, rubbery gunshot that opens up to reveal a whiff of something just starting to ferment. Whether we're about to get a nice batch of kim-chi or a rotten jar of funky sewage, we don't yet know. Oddly addictive for the same reasons we stop and stare at a burning car on the side of the road.

The scent very slowly softens to reveal notes that are a little more approachable. A touch of sweetness from (I assume) the jasmine in the heart shows itself, and a surprisingly soft burnt leathery fougere accord comes to dominate the lower heart and base.

The questionable fermentation process has resolved itself, and luckily, we ended up with something savory, and not rotten.

To compare Salvador Dali's genius base with the profiles of a few other scents you might be familiar with: think of Azzaro Pour Homme's classic anisic fougere base combined with Yatagan's bone dry, savory musk and leather foundation. Add good dose of funky earthy patchouli. Toss that on a smoldering charcoal fire and singe lightly.

This is definitely one that lives up to its challenging, dark, weird reputation. But it's captivating and beautiful in its own way.
10th October, 2016

L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Diptyque

The fantastic top of L'Ombre dans L'Eau contains a zingy and thrilling blend of citrus and wild brambles. For a time, it gets better: damp soil, moss growing on trees, roots, a wild rose hidden in the greenery. Perfect. One of the best openings ever. I almost bought a bottle outright at this stage, but my better judgement prevailed and I waited for the base.

Unfortunately, what emerged was not further earth, woods, and soily goodness, but a banal, sweet-synthetic floral green note. Out of the "Shadow" and into the "water" phase, I guess. Not rose...just that sweet shampoo-y floral note that perfumers apparently think represents "water," because I've smelled this in more than a few scents that purport to represent water/fresh gardens/rain. A waste of a bewitching opening. Neutral just because of the opening, which everyone should try to experience.
05th November, 2012

Bulgari pour Homme Soir by Bulgari

For those who like the restrained Bulgari style and find sweeter scents difficult to wear, Bulgari Pour Homme Soir could be a great option.

Soir is as an earthy, powdery, semi-sweet green scent. Typical Bulgari class and restraint. The earthy note is really what makes the scent for me - a sort of sweetened, chalky, mineral accord. It's synthetic, sure, but really cool - sort of a chilled version of Terre d'Hermes' mineral note with a dash of Creed Vetiver '48's wet rocky note thrown in.

The top is the weakest point for me, but not unbearable. It starts off with a somewhat bland, sweet detergent presence, and beautiful mineral ambiance gets going about a a half hour after application for me. Lasting power is surprisingly strong. I recommend it.
14th November, 2011 (last edited: 16th September, 2016)

L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

This is the most dramatic of the esteemed early 20th century Guerlain classics I've tried, the others being Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Apres L'Ondee. Shalimar is the darkly beautiful stunner. Mitsouko is the eclectic. Apres is cute and innocent. L'Heure Bleue is the somewhat moody drama student, who is quite stunning herself, but doesn't intentionally draw attention to her beauty, as there are other things to attend to.

L'Heure opens with a distinct bready/pastry note that reminds me of the slightly yeasty opening of Mitsouko, but in a more dessert-like form, due to the anise and a note reminiscent of almond butter. Plush, somewhat indolic florals create a powdery makeup-like backdrop, and envelop the opening in a light animalic cloak which is a strangely "cool" and medicinal, as opposed to the furry warmth of most animalic scents.

There is a hint of melancholy here, but I do not find that it dominates the scent. Perhaps a sad event has happened, and this is acknowledged by that dusty, wilted, almost decaying note that is more obvious in Mitsouko, but here the message seems to be to keep calm and carry on, and try to enjoy the little things. Have a pastry.

Despite the hint of melancholy, it is a very bright opening overall, and its utterly unique notes are felt well into the heart, as more traditionally florientall powdery notes begin to dominate. Even then, this is a cool, aloof powder, likely due to the relatively strong presence of iris. Never does L'Heure Bleue lose its character. It just seems to relax on the skin: the indoles dampen, the make-up and pastry note becomes a delicious memory.

The overall sense of coolness never leaves entirely, but it feels natural despite the ordinarily warm oriental structure. Instead of being cozily nested by the fire on a winter night, L'Heure Bleue is out wandering in streets, feeling the prick of the cold against her face, but not really noticing, because she is pondering some deep thought.

Unisex. Great longevity and sillage. Exquisite creation.
07th November, 2011 (last edited: 03rd October, 2016)

Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada

For years I've been sniffing and resniffing this at the store, always attracted but never drawn to buy...until recently. It's really good. Amber Pour Homme opens with a very nice warmly spiced neroli/cologne accord which is pretty unique. The juxtaposition of the cardamom against the citrus and neroli gives a bit of that dirty/clean conflict that creates so much interest in so many classics. Obviously this is very toned down here, but I think this has a light identifiable animalic tinge, at least in the opening and heart.

As it dries down it turns into more of a standard, but very well-done, sweet soap accord with light leather and tonka dominating on me. The patch never gains much traction, but I appreciate this, as the absence of that note differentiates Amber from other barbershop soap scents like Rive Gauche Pour Homme. I prefer this to the intense version, which has a strong and sharp patchouli note.
07th November, 2011

Nightscape by Ulrich Lang

This one has an interesting development. Nightscape opens with an extremely "clear" patchouli note that is surprisingly unaltered, considering how tame the scent is in the long run. The opening patch note is about as direct of a patch as I've smelled, for about 5 minutes. Really great opening.

As the heart approaches, the sharper green notes make an appearance to refrigerate the patchouli note and lend a definite soapy and sharp woodsy vibe to the scent. This is probably my least favorite phase, and is somewhat of a letdown after the excellent patchouli opening. However,this phase is unique among patchoulis and is well done - so this is just my personal preference.

In the base, the scent drops both the purity of the opening and sharper greens of the middle and becomes a comforting, very smooth skin scent of tonka and musk, with just enough of the original patch peeking through. Overall the scent is pretty minimalistic compared to the usual amber-infused patchouli fragrances, but this is intentional and effective. A worthy addition to the patchouli genre.
05th November, 2011

Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée by Chanel

Contrary to the reviews indicating that Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree is a citrus and vanilla powder fragrance, I get a fairly strong woody presence in the heart and base. So to me, this scent shares more DNA with something like Guerlain's Heritage or de Nicolai's New York than, say, Habit Rouge.

Why someone would claim to like and respect those former two scents and badmouth CPMC is beyond me (I'm looking at you, Turin); they are all based on the same woody-oriental theme and have mostly surface-level differences: Heritage is peppery, New York starts with lavender and citrus, and Pour Monsieur Concentree opens with citrus and spice (nutmeg). All fade to the classy woody oriental base we're familiar with. The Chanel has a bit more of a vanilla presence, but that doesn't make it any less enjoyable.

I unintentionally received this when I ordered what I thought was the original Chanel Pour Monsieur (my own fault, so I wasn't going to return it). At first I was upset, but I gave it a chance and I really enjoy it. I'd sampled but didn't own a bottle of any of the scents I used for comparison above, and frankly I think I would be happy with any of I'm happy to have Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree fill the woody-oriental spot in my wardrobe.
03rd November, 2011 (last edited: 12th November, 2012)

Halston Z-14 by Halston

*Updated Review 10/2016*
My nose must have evolved or progressed, because I can no longer wear this without experiencing physical discomfort in the form of a nasty headache. Trust me, strong and loud scents don't bother me - give me Quorum and Kouros all day. But Z-14 (at least the newest version) has a shrieking banshee of a sour/bitter/spicy/chemical woody note that drills right between my temples.

Perhaps I've simply become sensitive to an aromachemical that didn't bother me before, but I have change to a thumbs down.

*Original Review:*
I can't believe nobody has mentioned this yet, but Z-14 smells a lot like the original Chevignon, and therefore also like Polo Crest (I think someone did reference that one below). I mean a lot like them. From the citrus/evergreen/cinnamon spicy zing of the opening and heart to the warm mossy/amber base. I'd say the main differentiating point is that Z-14 is a bit "thicker," with a touch of leather, and a more literal mossy cyphre structure underneath.

Yes, it is loud, and yes, that big mossy amber 80s cyphre structure is the very definition of "that 80's cologne smell," but you can hardly blame Z-14 for that. Z-14 invented "that 80's cologne smell" in the 70s, and was copied because it does a good job of it. Support your local fragrance discounter and buy a bottle.
25th October, 2011 (last edited: 03rd October, 2016)

Black Jeans by Versace

Great smells in this from top to bottom. Black Jeans opens with a sharp aromatic crack, and a slight medicinal hint of nutmeg and/or clove gives it a gaseous undercurrent. I don't get tar or gasoline, but I can see how this combination of notes hints at something industrial.

As the opening fades, Black Jeans quickly morphs into an extremely smooth and unique tobacco-laden leathery fougere phase. The comparisons to Rive Gauche are somewhat apt - there is a definite patchouli presence here - but Black Jeans has an opening that's a little more "out there" and sharp, and the base pushes the "fougere" boundary a bit by veering toward leather/tobacco territory.

This description may make Black Jeans sound rough, manly, and heavy, but it really is very modern and sleek for such weighty notes. This is a truly impressive piece of perfumery.

My only complaint with Black Jeans is in the sillage/longevity department. Sillage is moderate in the opening and low in the heart/base. It's hardly noticeable after 5 hours or so, after a liberal chest application. I will probably purchase it anyway, simply because it is such an enjoyable, versatile and impressive scent.
02nd September, 2011

Sartorial by Penhaligon's

Yes. Brut.

This is Brut, projected through the prism of the most modern fragrance styles, distilled with the essence of all the best that came from the "ozonic" trend, artistically molded to resemble an idealized high-end tailor's shop, and cut to a trim and stylish silhouette by Douchafour. Awesome.
30th July, 2011

Forest Rain by Kiehl's

Forest Rain does smell like a rainy forest, but not in the way most reviewers seem to expect. There isn't a hint of evergreen in this, despite the color of the bottle and "northwestern rain forest" look of the whole presentation. Seattle is many thousands of miles away from this one.

The smell is more evocative of a tropical rain forest, full of beautiful flowers, blooming grass, and giant trees with enormous leaves, dripping with water. There isn't much, if any, wood in this blend. This forest is dominated by leaves and thick foliage. The muguet note is particularly noticeable, and I suspect it's responsible for the "watery" green aspect of this scent.

As it dries down, a clear relationship with Kiehl's Musk emerges, but completely sanitized, a little sweeter and softer, and with that watery green-ness remaining in the background. This comfortable and simple watery green musk accord hums along for quite awhile, and never breaks down into anything obnoxious. Sillage is average and longevity is above average.

I do enjoy it. Would I buy it? Maybe, especially since its inexpensive. It is rather unique, as this particular version of "green" (dripping wet, soft, somewhat tropical) isn't seen very often in fragrances.
28th July, 2011

Wall Street by Bond No. 9

A nice cucumber note highlights the opening of Wall Street, and a salty note in the heart and base holds my interest for a time, but at its core, this is bland aquatic business as usual. Well-made but very typical. Fans of aquatics and of cucumber notes in particular should check it out. I think of it as a high-end rendition of Polo Blue, with more of an aquatic edge.
27th July, 2011

Kiehl's Original Musk by Kiehl's

To those who find the EDT concentration too floral, I strongly recommend trying the oil version of Kiehl's Original Musk. I once owned the EDT spray and swapped it away because - you guessed it - it was too floral. The musk didn't seem to mesh with the strong, almost soapy flowers in the heart. I saw what the scent was aiming for: that interesting but difficult to execute juxtaposition of clean and dirty accords, a la Kouros. But instead of coming together to make something interesting, the notes seemed to be fighting each other in the EDT.

Fast forward a couple years. I read some reviews of the oil that indicated a less floral musk blend. So I picked up a .25oz vial of the oil, and sure enough, it was everything I hoped the EDT would be when I first bought it: that rich, attractive, interesting and almost savory musk note comes into focus here. It is incredibly attractive and versatile. The florals are still present, but they're definitely subservient to, and almost embedded in, the dominant musk. Like the other oils in this line, it has excellent longevity.

The oil version of Kiehl's Original Musk is outstanding, and the price is certainly right. $25 for the .25oz vial of oil, and $35 for the .5oz bottle. Both oil options will last as long as or longer than the 1.7oz EDT spray.
27th July, 2011