Fragrance Reviews
Fragrance Reviews by LiveJazz
Showing all 67 reviews
Original Vetiver by Creed
This is too soapy. To me, it doesn't smell natural, it doesn't smell like vetiver, it doesn't smell like freshly cut grass, and it's not particularly smooth. It smells like a VERY nice soap. Maybe the body wash would be a good investment...this would certainly wake you up in the morning. If you're looking for a nice soap scent with good longevity, this is a top option, but I'm just not a fan of the genre. I was hoping for more vetiver and/or grass.
My favorite aspect of OV is the peppery dryness, but that note is done much better in Ormonde Jayne's Isfarkand, a similar but much more interesting (read: less soapy) scent.
My favorite aspect of OV is the peppery dryness, but that note is done much better in Ormonde Jayne's Isfarkand, a similar but much more interesting (read: less soapy) scent.
13 December 2007
Blue Agava and Cacao by Jo Malone
I like it. It's very smooth and velvety. If anyone has seen the movie Chocolat, this is what I imagine that thick, beautiful hot chocolate that tempts everyone in the town to sin smells like.
This is not a one note chocolate scent though. I definitely detect the green agave cactus note that gives the scent part of its name. A funky, unique, and totally unexpected note that brings back memories my childhood in Texas, where my Hispanic friend's mom would would fry up whole pieces fresh picked agave for lunch, or mince it in with eggs for breakfast. The cinnamon is the icing on the cake, and perfectly rounds out the base of this treasure.
This might be bottle worthy for me because of these associations and because this is the first chocolate scent I've really liked.
This is not a one note chocolate scent though. I definitely detect the green agave cactus note that gives the scent part of its name. A funky, unique, and totally unexpected note that brings back memories my childhood in Texas, where my Hispanic friend's mom would would fry up whole pieces fresh picked agave for lunch, or mince it in with eggs for breakfast. The cinnamon is the icing on the cake, and perfectly rounds out the base of this treasure.
This might be bottle worthy for me because of these associations and because this is the first chocolate scent I've really liked.
13 December 2007
Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone
When I smell this is scent, the image that comes to mind is a violent battle between three very respectable and astute gentlemen: Mr. Lime, Mr. Basil, and Mr. Pepper. After a friendly handshake and amiable introduction, the trio sees that they have irreparable differences and begin squabbling. This escalates into an all-out war. Mr. Lime, a likable firebrand thrillseeker, takes the early lead and overtakes his competitors, but he soon becomes tired and frustrated with Basil and Pepper, who are sneaky bastards. They form an alliance and pummel Lime to death, leaving him to rot, which he does, judging by his smell. Pepper and Basil are tortured by guilt, and become harsh and bitter with age.
Everyone looses, including the poor fellow who made this stuff his SotD.
Everyone looses, including the poor fellow who made this stuff his SotD.
13 December 2007
Acier Aluminium by Creed
I've spent quite some time trying to wrap my mind around this one. I really expected to like it, and it was the most anticipated of my recent Creed decant binge. I don't think I'll be able to like it though.
I get a dirty vibe from it, which I usually don't mind. But I get an inescapable connection to that blue juice that they use to flush airplane toilets. Weird, I know, but I can't help it. It's the sanitary nature of Kouros plus a bunch of fake-smelling fruit and spices. I don't get a whole lot of evolution out of it either, and the drydown is basically a bland version of the top. It does, however, last days. I'll give it that.
I get a dirty vibe from it, which I usually don't mind. But I get an inescapable connection to that blue juice that they use to flush airplane toilets. Weird, I know, but I can't help it. It's the sanitary nature of Kouros plus a bunch of fake-smelling fruit and spices. I don't get a whole lot of evolution out of it either, and the drydown is basically a bland version of the top. It does, however, last days. I'll give it that.
06 December 2007
Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone
Wow, this is one of the more unique fragrance experiences I've had in awhile. I think everyone's comments so far have been valid. Depending on what you're thinking when you smell it, it can smell like Vicks, fruit, cloves, pepper, patchouli or frankincense. However, it does not smell overdone; despite its many opposing characteristics, it strikes me as rather minimalist and dry. I must admit that I was slightly put off by the (it's true) harsh opening. I thought of a minty and smoky version of L'Anarchiste, and I smelled a strong clove note. But where L'Anarchiste puts me off, this intrigues me. It doesn't have the same sickly aura about it. The drydown focuses more on the frankincense and patchouli, while the fruit peeks from the background. This is a wonderful, wonderful drydown. I'll have to sample it a few more times to make up my mind, but there is a very good chance this is bottle worthy for me.
02 December 2007
Bleecker Street by Bond No. 9
Many have commented on the supposed ambery vanilla drydown of Bleecker Street. I get nothing of the sort. Maybe it's just my skin, but this one is all green all the way, plus a bit of wood and powder in the drydown. Still mostly green, though, all the way through.
The top is sharp and herbal. So sharp that at first I thought it was spicy. But if you really concentrate, it's just a very prickly green accord. As someone already said, there is something like lime zest in there, but that isn't listed as a note. All kinds of herbs (thyme, notably), but the most striking element of Bleecker Street for me is the violet leaves in the middle. This note lends a strong and definite earthy note in the heart of this one, like nothing I've smelled before. It's almost like dirt. Grassy dirt. But the way it's blended in the various herbs and greens is hypnotic.
Overall, I think of Kiton Men (in terms of the sharp, prickly, "spicy" greens) with dirtier, richer feel to it. I like it. Kiton's the one you wear with a suit. This is what you wear to play frisbee at the park.
The top is sharp and herbal. So sharp that at first I thought it was spicy. But if you really concentrate, it's just a very prickly green accord. As someone already said, there is something like lime zest in there, but that isn't listed as a note. All kinds of herbs (thyme, notably), but the most striking element of Bleecker Street for me is the violet leaves in the middle. This note lends a strong and definite earthy note in the heart of this one, like nothing I've smelled before. It's almost like dirt. Grassy dirt. But the way it's blended in the various herbs and greens is hypnotic.
Overall, I think of Kiton Men (in terms of the sharp, prickly, "spicy" greens) with dirtier, richer feel to it. I like it. Kiton's the one you wear with a suit. This is what you wear to play frisbee at the park.
10 November 2007
Polo by Ralph Lauren
I really like this one. I put off testing on myself for a really long time because of the many naysayers, but I really should have known better. I like green scents. It smells absolutely majestic. I think of Yatagan made more accessible with the addition of more conventional notes of pine and subtle tobacco. This is one of the more wearable of the power scents. Not a hint of sweetness here, but it still has a touch of something gentle in it. It smells trustworthy and honest...like a leader who does not choose to lead, but ends up leading by default. I think I'll get a bottle for the winter.
05 November 2007
Bois du Portugal by Creed
Wow, this one absolutely deserves every bit of the raving hype it gets. I have a definite weak spot for dry spicy woods fragrances, and this once certainly fits the bill. It's the best in the category that I've smelled. Like Caron's Third Man, this one changes an unbelievable amount through the drydown. Both start out dominated by lavender, but while Third Man turns warm, sweet, thick, and almost damp, Bois du Portugal is like a sauna.
I get a very strong incense accord after the lavender fades, and this sticks around and gets spicier for a few hours. I felt like I needed a glass of water. Gradually, a very light powder note appears. This stays completely in the background though. The spice and woods definitely dominate, but now they take on a soapy oakmoss character. I've smelled an accord like this before in Divine's L'Homme Sage. It's a sweeter drydown there, but both are oakmoss beasts as far as I can tell.
I find BdP to be very charismatic and wearable in small doses...a streamlined beast that never tries to be too many things at once.
I get a very strong incense accord after the lavender fades, and this sticks around and gets spicier for a few hours. I felt like I needed a glass of water. Gradually, a very light powder note appears. This stays completely in the background though. The spice and woods definitely dominate, but now they take on a soapy oakmoss character. I've smelled an accord like this before in Divine's L'Homme Sage. It's a sweeter drydown there, but both are oakmoss beasts as far as I can tell.
I find BdP to be very charismatic and wearable in small doses...a streamlined beast that never tries to be too many things at once.
24 October 2007
Polo Double Black by Ralph Lauren
I am very impressed by the topnotes. I'm definitely a sucker for spicy accords, and black pepper notes in particular. And mango is my favorite fruit. This is a very unique, refreshing, and compelling combo. Unfortunately, the drydown is less than spectacular. I suspect that this has to do with skin chemistry, because rather than warming up and smoothing out on me, as others have said, this turns sour, bitter, and unpleasantly sweet. I didn't smell coffee in it at all. Just some basic woods and sweetness. I would give it a thumbs down, but the topnotes are just so damn delicious, so I can't.
20 October 2007
Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior
There's really no reason that I shouldn't like this. I like classic citruses. I usually like prominent herb notes in fragrances. But something about this one doesn't work for me at all. The herbals make it smell dirty rather than spicy and natural. No, wait, it does smell natural, just in a slightly dirty way. Now, there are certain fragrances that should have some unclean undertones. Azzaro PH, for instance. It is what it is. But this is supposed to be refreshing, light, clean and formal. Those notes, whatever they are, don't belong here. But really, that's beside the point. I just don't like it much.
24 July 2007
Un Jardin en Méditerranée by Hermès
Well, I just can't make up my mind about this one. On the one hand, it smells pretty. Pleasant enough, and unlikely to offend. But if I think about it too much, I start to notice elements that remind me of a cheap womens' perfume from the likes of Escada. Then I snap out of it and stop thinking about it too much, and it smells modern, weightless, stark, and transparent (as we've come to expect from Ellena) again. You can easily convince yourself either way on this one. Is that part of its genius, or is it an expensive unisex perfume that borders on the mundane? I'm not going to buy a bottle just to figure it out.
20 July 2007
Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro
A violent concoction of lavender and spices attacks for nose to start, followed by a sickeningly sour heart and a dull base...
...if you spray it on a card.
If you spray it on your skin, however (well, my skin anyway), it blossoms into a rich, woody, subdued, slightly musky aura scent. Gotta love the ambergris drydown. In an Azzaro. Who'd have thought?? The only aspect of it that I'm not a fan of is the strong anise on top, but it fades soon enough on my skin. Good all-around scent.
...if you spray it on a card.
If you spray it on your skin, however (well, my skin anyway), it blossoms into a rich, woody, subdued, slightly musky aura scent. Gotta love the ambergris drydown. In an Azzaro. Who'd have thought?? The only aspect of it that I'm not a fan of is the strong anise on top, but it fades soon enough on my skin. Good all-around scent.
18 July 2007
Baldessarini by Baldessarini
Well, I got this one blindly in a swap. I was expecting to be underwhelmed, but this is quickly joining Bvlgari PH as my standard work fragrance.
Sure, it's a little sweet, but it's such a transparently clean sweetness. Baldessarini is to sweet what Bvlgari PH is to musk. Very sheer and very easy to handle. Sillage isn't great (I don't want it to be if it's going to serve as a more formal selection), but longevity has been fine on me. This is one of the few scents featuring tobacco that work well on me. It's very well blended and smooth.
No, it isn't groundbreaking or particularly interesting, but I think there's something to be said for a cologne that just smells damn good all the time. This one certainly fits the bill.
Sure, it's a little sweet, but it's such a transparently clean sweetness. Baldessarini is to sweet what Bvlgari PH is to musk. Very sheer and very easy to handle. Sillage isn't great (I don't want it to be if it's going to serve as a more formal selection), but longevity has been fine on me. This is one of the few scents featuring tobacco that work well on me. It's very well blended and smooth.
No, it isn't groundbreaking or particularly interesting, but I think there's something to be said for a cologne that just smells damn good all the time. This one certainly fits the bill.
03 July 2007
Vetiver by Guerlain
This is one of those scents that makes me feel guilty for not giving it a raving thumbs up review. I've my decant of it for close to a year now. Every time I select it as my SotD, I'm a little excited because I think that THIS will be the day that Guerlain Vetiver (new formulation) finally clicks for me. Alas, it has never happened. Which is odd because I like vetiver, and I like citrus.
The dealbreakers for me are the nutmeg note and the strong tobacco note. I already knew that I didn't like these notes when I decided to give this scent a try, but I thought that since they're basically supporting notes in the generally terrific cast, I could deal with it. But no, the suffocating tobacco and noxious nutmeg hijack the accords and ruin the whole thing for me. It's like watching an amazing movie in a theater and knowing that it's an amsolute masterwork, but the sound is slightly off and there projector is making a big blotch in the corner of the screen. You just can't appreciate it anymore.
If you like vetiver but are not fond of the heavier notes that Vetiver makes use of, I suggest something like CdG's Vettiveru, Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire, or Creed's Original Vetiver. These are "brighter" rentitions of this theme, and work much better on me.
All that said, I can't give this a thumbs down. The evolution is too perfect, the balance of the notes too impressive, the sillage just right. No, I don't like it for myself, but it is certainly a noteworthy blend.
The dealbreakers for me are the nutmeg note and the strong tobacco note. I already knew that I didn't like these notes when I decided to give this scent a try, but I thought that since they're basically supporting notes in the generally terrific cast, I could deal with it. But no, the suffocating tobacco and noxious nutmeg hijack the accords and ruin the whole thing for me. It's like watching an amazing movie in a theater and knowing that it's an amsolute masterwork, but the sound is slightly off and there projector is making a big blotch in the corner of the screen. You just can't appreciate it anymore.
If you like vetiver but are not fond of the heavier notes that Vetiver makes use of, I suggest something like CdG's Vettiveru, Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire, or Creed's Original Vetiver. These are "brighter" rentitions of this theme, and work much better on me.
All that said, I can't give this a thumbs down. The evolution is too perfect, the balance of the notes too impressive, the sillage just right. No, I don't like it for myself, but it is certainly a noteworthy blend.
28 June 2007
Kiton Men by Kiton
I've never truly liked a green scent before. It seemed that they were always too sharp...too dry...too grassy...too something. But Kiton Men just NAILS it. Perfect 10.
It starts out with a spicy zing that immediately catches your attention. You think for a second that this might be a Fahrenheit copy without the gasoline note. But within a few seconds it morphs into more of a floral green, and all but a hint of the spice has vanished. Kiton stays at this stage for quite a long period, announcing its utterly refreshing and smooth elegance with respectable sillage. The drydown is actually quite different from the rest of the scent for me. Almost powdery in an irisy kind of way. But I don't see iris on any scent pyramids, and I'm not sure that iris has the stamina to show as a basenote anyway. It's probably a subtle tonka note that's "greened" by everything around it. It’s Perfect for any situation and any season, though it's probably best for summer and spring. I love it.
It starts out with a spicy zing that immediately catches your attention. You think for a second that this might be a Fahrenheit copy without the gasoline note. But within a few seconds it morphs into more of a floral green, and all but a hint of the spice has vanished. Kiton stays at this stage for quite a long period, announcing its utterly refreshing and smooth elegance with respectable sillage. The drydown is actually quite different from the rest of the scent for me. Almost powdery in an irisy kind of way. But I don't see iris on any scent pyramids, and I'm not sure that iris has the stamina to show as a basenote anyway. It's probably a subtle tonka note that's "greened" by everything around it. It’s Perfect for any situation and any season, though it's probably best for summer and spring. I love it.
05 June 2007
Body Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent
This is one of the few sweet scents that I like enough to give it a full-fledged thumbs up. I think it's because, although the sweetness is quite pronounced, it isn't the point of Body Kouros. It's just so many things at once: cool, spicy, smoky, modern, powdery, and yes, sweet too.
How you view this fragrance really depends on your frame of mind when you put it on. At times, it smells refreshingly clean, like something I'd put on after a workout. At other times, it's hot, sweet, and ragingly seductive. Most of the time, it has a nice spicy/powdery cutting edge feel to it, which is helped along by the striking addition of eucalyptus.
It might give you some trouble in the heat, but I still feel that it’s appropriate for a summer night if applied sparingly. Lasting power is just fine, as is sillage.
How you view this fragrance really depends on your frame of mind when you put it on. At times, it smells refreshingly clean, like something I'd put on after a workout. At other times, it's hot, sweet, and ragingly seductive. Most of the time, it has a nice spicy/powdery cutting edge feel to it, which is helped along by the striking addition of eucalyptus.
It might give you some trouble in the heat, but I still feel that it’s appropriate for a summer night if applied sparingly. Lasting power is just fine, as is sillage.
05 June 2007
Bulgari Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari
I will be very blunt:
Other than Kenzo PH, this is the most authentic smelling marine fragrace on the market in this price category. If you like very oceanic, bitter, authentic marines, get it. If not, aviod it. Simple as that.
Other than Kenzo PH, this is the most authentic smelling marine fragrace on the market in this price category. If you like very oceanic, bitter, authentic marines, get it. If not, aviod it. Simple as that.
09 May 2007
Philosykos by Diptyque
The topnotes: banana tree leaves. Exactly. When I was young, I used to have to prune my family's banana plants for the winter, or else all of the leaves would turn brown and make a big mess. I would take a big clipper and go at it. The juices that oozed out of the plants smelled like the topnotes of Philosykos. Period.
The midnotes: fresh figs, right off the tree. If you've ever smelled one, you'd recognize it. They don't smell fruity, they smell creamy/green. Just a hint of something coconuty in there.
I don't pick up much change after this point. The midnotes just soften and gradually fade to nothing. Total evolution is about 3 hours for me.
A remarkable achievement to be sure. No idea how Olivia pulled this off, but it is amazing! I've never smelled something so authentically natural. Unfortunately, I don't want to smell like a tree-ripened fig all day, as amazing as the effect might be. I won't be wearing it much, but I will be marveling at it in private regularly. Thumbs way up for the perfumer!
The midnotes: fresh figs, right off the tree. If you've ever smelled one, you'd recognize it. They don't smell fruity, they smell creamy/green. Just a hint of something coconuty in there.
I don't pick up much change after this point. The midnotes just soften and gradually fade to nothing. Total evolution is about 3 hours for me.
A remarkable achievement to be sure. No idea how Olivia pulled this off, but it is amazing! I've never smelled something so authentically natural. Unfortunately, I don't want to smell like a tree-ripened fig all day, as amazing as the effect might be. I won't be wearing it much, but I will be marveling at it in private regularly. Thumbs way up for the perfumer!
25 April 2007
Dune pour Homme by Christian Dior
I really wanted to like this one. It smells pleasant. It's nice and dry and versatile, and it smells very natural. But there just isn't much substance there. It's too transparent. When I smell it, I think of a veeeery light shade of green. Almost white, but not quite. It's not one to get excited about. It needs a little more...something. Beef.
So, I give this somewhere between and neutral thumb and a thumbs up, but closer to the neutral. I might even consider buying it for summer, just because I like much more than most light scents.
So, I give this somewhere between and neutral thumb and a thumbs up, but closer to the neutral. I might even consider buying it for summer, just because I like much more than most light scents.
22 April 2007
Cuiron Pour Homme by Helmut Lang
Cuiron. My favorite leather. I admit that I have rather limited experience with the category, but still. Wow!
Absolutely nothing smells remotely like it, and very few people wear it. In most cases this means that a fragrance is abstract and difficult to relate to. Not so with Cuiron. It's warm and inviting, yet clean and crisp. It's constantly there, but never overbearing. People love it on me. It's wearable in every season. I see this as the very definition of a great signature scent.
The top is strong and can sting the nostils somewhat, but the plum (which is hard to actually ideantify as plum, but there is definitely a fresh note there) is reassuring and keeps things grounded. After that, you're left with a dry, subdued, manly leather aroma that refreshes, surprises, and lends confidence in equal parts. It's a bit linear after the first hour, but I wouldn't want it to change anyway.
10/10, my favorite fragrance at the moment.
Absolutely nothing smells remotely like it, and very few people wear it. In most cases this means that a fragrance is abstract and difficult to relate to. Not so with Cuiron. It's warm and inviting, yet clean and crisp. It's constantly there, but never overbearing. People love it on me. It's wearable in every season. I see this as the very definition of a great signature scent.
The top is strong and can sting the nostils somewhat, but the plum (which is hard to actually ideantify as plum, but there is definitely a fresh note there) is reassuring and keeps things grounded. After that, you're left with a dry, subdued, manly leather aroma that refreshes, surprises, and lends confidence in equal parts. It's a bit linear after the first hour, but I wouldn't want it to change anyway.
10/10, my favorite fragrance at the moment.
14 April 2007
Clean Men by Clean
Gendarme gone wrong, in my opinion. It's sharp to a fault, which is normal in topnotes, but in this case the obnoxious and unchecked citrus notes continue their assault on your nose for hours. If you mean to smell like a clean man, just get Gendarme.
14 March 2007
The Dreamer by Versace
After going back and forth on this one for months, I'm finally going to say I like it. Oddly, it reminds me of a mix between two of my least favorite scents: Le Male and D&G PH. Plus some florals. And it works! It has Le Male's minty-sweet and slightly synthetic opening - but that's gone pretty quickly. Alingering light sweetness remains to pretty the tobacco up and makes it more tolerable than D&G's wretched take on the note. The florals provide a consistent backdrop for this interesting evolution. This is the only Versace fragrance I like at all.
14 March 2007
Euphoria Men by Calvin Klein
After reading all these reviews I couldn't believe that a fragrance could really be THAT bland. Well, it is. One of the things that makes a fragrance great (or at least good) is its ability to make you think. When I finally had the chance to put this on, I put everything I'd heard about it out of my head and prepared to appreciate it for what it is. And I thought nothing. There it was...a fragrance. On your wrist. A benign smell. Not really citrus, not woody, not ambery, not barbershop. Impossible to hate, impossible to love. And saddest of all, I think that was CK's goal.
14 March 2007
Fahrenheit by Christian Dior
This one is hard to review. On the one hand, I love the smell of it. I love the idea of it. And I love how well Dior executed it. It brings back memories of my family's lawn shed. It always smelled of dried grass, dust, and tractor. I actually used to go in there just to revel in the smell. Even before I'd developed this hobby, I swore that I'd like to smell like that shed did.
Well, I've had the opportunity to smell like that shed, and I didn't like it. It just made me uncomfortable, smelling like dust, grass, and tractor. Sure there are some woody floral notes in there, but that isn't what you notice, is it?
So, thumbs up because it is an amazing scent that I admire and love. I just won't be wearing it on a regular basis.
Well, I've had the opportunity to smell like that shed, and I didn't like it. It just made me uncomfortable, smelling like dust, grass, and tractor. Sure there are some woody floral notes in there, but that isn't what you notice, is it?
So, thumbs up because it is an amazing scent that I admire and love. I just won't be wearing it on a regular basis.
12 March 2007
Michael for Men by Michael Kors
I can see how one could like this scent a lot. It has many likeable characteristics. It's quite sweet. It's very distinctive. It's sensual.
But to me it's just too brash. It's like a multitude of hyperactive notes are trapped in a tiny cell trying to escape. If the cell were bigger or if the notes were not so energetic, the scent would work. But as they are, they form a clashing, searing, annoying mess.
The tobacco and the plum are big, sweet notes. Incense seems like it would help dry the composition out and smooth the progression a bit, but the incense in Michael reminds me of wet, sweet hookah smoke rather than dry fire-smoke. On top of all this, there's some ugly, medicinal, synthetic note that I can't place in Michael. I can't stand it.
But to me it's just too brash. It's like a multitude of hyperactive notes are trapped in a tiny cell trying to escape. If the cell were bigger or if the notes were not so energetic, the scent would work. But as they are, they form a clashing, searing, annoying mess.
The tobacco and the plum are big, sweet notes. Incense seems like it would help dry the composition out and smooth the progression a bit, but the incense in Michael reminds me of wet, sweet hookah smoke rather than dry fire-smoke. On top of all this, there's some ugly, medicinal, synthetic note that I can't place in Michael. I can't stand it.
12 March 2007
L'Anarchiste by Caron
Pfff L'Anarchiste my foot!
On the contrary, I find this scent to be very orderly and pleasant, as far as notes are concerned. It starts with a nice little minty orange spice accord that sticks around for a good hour. As the orange and mint tapers off, I'm left with very pleasant, soft spices and musk.
I think all the ado with this one is about the mint/orange scent in the topnotes. Those two aren't thrown together often. They might might not get along too well, but seriously, they aren't anarchists. Eventually they simply make friends and part ways, leaving the always calm and dependable spice and musk notes to take over. Great, great scent...just don't overthink it.
On the contrary, I find this scent to be very orderly and pleasant, as far as notes are concerned. It starts with a nice little minty orange spice accord that sticks around for a good hour. As the orange and mint tapers off, I'm left with very pleasant, soft spices and musk.
I think all the ado with this one is about the mint/orange scent in the topnotes. Those two aren't thrown together often. They might might not get along too well, but seriously, they aren't anarchists. Eventually they simply make friends and part ways, leaving the always calm and dependable spice and musk notes to take over. Great, great scent...just don't overthink it.
07 March 2007
Sandalwood by Floris
Weird, weird cologne. I'm not even sure what to think. It is SO SUBTLE. There almost are no topnotes. When you apply it, it has the same feeling as most other colognes do after about 5 hours on the skin. Also, it goes on synthetic. I think if CdG put out a sandalwood, it would smell something like this. Usually I like scents that stay close to me, but this takes it overboad. I can barely smell it when i put my nose on my arm 3 minutes after applying. And what I can smell...well its ok I guess, but Tam Dao is much much much better.
02 November 2006
Bois d'Argent Cologne by Christian Dior
Congrats, Joel_Cairo, on an excellent review there. I don't have a whole lot to add that wasn't in that eloquent review, other than this iris note is AMAZING. It really does smell like a freshly blooming vase of irises to me. As a whole experience, this almost brings down the fragrace a bit. The iris is rather overwhelming at times, and the honey doesn't temper it one bit. It's very sweet and powdery. Although I suspect that I will not be wearing a lot, I'll give a thumbs up for sheer quality.
31 October 2006
No. 88 by Czech & Speake
If you like rose, get it, period. On me, this is like a stronger Voleur de Roses, in which the patchouli and spices are replaced by bergamot and sandalwood. Obviously, the rose takes center stage. Honestly, it's only the top and early heart notes that beat you over the head with rose stems. Mind you, these are freshly snipped, still wet with dew rose stems. If I had to choose any rose stems to be beat on the head with, these are them. But that still doesn't make it an enjoyable experience.
After that, it's much more pleasant. The woody, vetivery qualities begin to shine. As others have said, it's very well made and has a clear progression of notes through its very long life. I like the fact that it doesn't resort to a mish-mash of powder to soften the scent like so many rose scents do. It achives a solid, confident, and very manly drydown that still manages to remain refreshing and versatile. Thumbs down on the top, which is indeed very hard to pull off, and thumbs up on the amazing drydown. So, 3/4. Still a good one IMO.
After that, it's much more pleasant. The woody, vetivery qualities begin to shine. As others have said, it's very well made and has a clear progression of notes through its very long life. I like the fact that it doesn't resort to a mish-mash of powder to soften the scent like so many rose scents do. It achives a solid, confident, and very manly drydown that still manages to remain refreshing and versatile. Thumbs down on the top, which is indeed very hard to pull off, and thumbs up on the amazing drydown. So, 3/4. Still a good one IMO.
25 October 2006
parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Avignon by Comme des Garçons
I'm not Catholic and never have been much of a churchgoer, so I can't comment this scent's ability to evoke any religious imagry. But I can tell you this is a very, very well made and complex scent.
It's so much more than just incense! While frankincense and myrrh are certainly dominant notes in here (especially during the harsh and someone shocking topnotes), they would never make an acceptable fragrance alone. In rushes the cistus oil (rockrose), which grounds the smoke and gives the fragrance that "stony" feel that others credit for evoking images of cold, stony cathedrals. Old cathedrals definitely do have a musty, dry, rocky scent about them, whether there was ever much insense around or not, and Avignon expertly recreates this smell of incomprehenible "oldness"...and all the history - good and bad- and goes along with it. Tauer acheives the same rocky, mineralic, timeless effect in L'Air du Desert Marocain. What that fragrance does with spice notes, Avignon does with incense. Soon, some dry subtle vanilla enters the scene and softens the overall accord, finally making it more approachable. It's at this point that we stop seeing Avignon as an esoteric study of insense and start to realize that it's actually a pleasant and wearable scent. I'm not sure I smell much of the roman chamomile in this. There is something green and herbal hiding in it, but this accord doesn't really attract attention to itself. Like the vanilla and rockrose, I think it serves to smooth out the rough edges of the scent and give people something familiar to grasp while experiencing this olfactory journey in time. Avignon may take some getting used to if you aren't used to such unabashedly intense, smoky insense notes (I know it took me some time to appreciate it), but wait is definitely worth the realization that this is a masterpiece. If you get to try one insense fragrance in our life, this should be it. Amazing.
It's so much more than just incense! While frankincense and myrrh are certainly dominant notes in here (especially during the harsh and someone shocking topnotes), they would never make an acceptable fragrance alone. In rushes the cistus oil (rockrose), which grounds the smoke and gives the fragrance that "stony" feel that others credit for evoking images of cold, stony cathedrals. Old cathedrals definitely do have a musty, dry, rocky scent about them, whether there was ever much insense around or not, and Avignon expertly recreates this smell of incomprehenible "oldness"...and all the history - good and bad- and goes along with it. Tauer acheives the same rocky, mineralic, timeless effect in L'Air du Desert Marocain. What that fragrance does with spice notes, Avignon does with incense. Soon, some dry subtle vanilla enters the scene and softens the overall accord, finally making it more approachable. It's at this point that we stop seeing Avignon as an esoteric study of insense and start to realize that it's actually a pleasant and wearable scent. I'm not sure I smell much of the roman chamomile in this. There is something green and herbal hiding in it, but this accord doesn't really attract attention to itself. Like the vanilla and rockrose, I think it serves to smooth out the rough edges of the scent and give people something familiar to grasp while experiencing this olfactory journey in time. Avignon may take some getting used to if you aren't used to such unabashedly intense, smoky insense notes (I know it took me some time to appreciate it), but wait is definitely worth the realization that this is a masterpiece. If you get to try one insense fragrance in our life, this should be it. Amazing.
16 October 2006
Bulgari Black by Bulgari
Well well well. Bvlgari Black. We meet again. The first time we met, I was astounded that I could be so revolted by a fragrance. You smelled like someone had spilled a cup of stale tea on an old dirty tire. Now, you smell like someone sprayed a sublime vanilla infused tea fragrance on a fresh, shiny tire. A Ferarri tire. And the Ferarri is at a fancy car show featuring many stylish and rich individuals. Honestly, I don't know what happened. Was it my nose becoming more accustomed to unconventional notes? This is an amazing scent. It is minimalistic without being boring. Attention grabbing without being loud and obnoxious. Classy without feeling stifled. Sweet without being cloying. And most importantly, unique without being intimidatingly weird. Despite what others have said, I find sillage and longevity to be better than average. This is an amazingly well thought out and expertly crafted fragrance. Try it!
15 October 2006
Sandalwood Cologne by Geo F Trumper
As far as scnets with "sandalwood" in the name go, this one has a pretty subtle and hidden sandalwood note. This isn't a bad thing, however, if you don't get it expecting another Tam Dao. As others have said, the opening notes start out a rather jumbled mess. For a few minutes it has a sweet/sour note that smells a bit synthetic and very out of place. But, as a chess player set his pieces on a board, the notes quickly organize themselves and start to make some sense. The citrus subsides, and you are left with a floral oriental type smell. Soon after, the florals fade, and some light sandalwood and leather (a sweet, subtle, heavenly barely perceptible leather) takes it place. There it stays, a subtle and not too sweet (i'm very sensitive to sweetness, but this one is one of the rare few that work) brew of magical "citrus-leather-sandalwood harmony".
11 October 2006
Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur
AlthaeaSoaps said it smelled of burning brake pads. I was trying to think of what the top smelled like, and that's actually a very close comparison. It fades to, as others have said, more of a circus smell. Like cotton candy/animal stall/generator engines. When it dries, it's a bit more grounded and "normal"...more of a subtle sweet/spicy leather. I like it because of it's unique imagry, but I don't think i'd wear it regularly.
30 September 2006
Lonestar Memories by Tauer
Top:
Geranium, Carrot seed, clary sage
Middle:
Birchtar, cistus, jasmine, cedarwood
Base:
Myrrh, tonka, vetiver, sandalwood
To me, it smells like an old hut in the middle of nowhere. Allow me to explain: I recently lived in New Zealand, and being the fan of the outdoors that I am, I went on some backpacking trips. Some of the huts here basically avalanche shelters. Some were so big they could almost have been hotels. And some were literally abandoned trappers' huts. In them were rusted old wood stoves, dented up ash buckets, some half burned wood, maybe a few wool blankets, lots of dirt, and the smell of decades of use by weary, dusty travellers. After tramping through mountains, sleet, rain, mud, rivers, grasslands and snow (usually all in the same day), the sight, smell, and feel of those huts caused a combination of emotions that I still can't totally identify. For dinner, we usually made some variation of vegetable soup and baked beans. Soon, that aroma mingled with the background smell of the hut, and THAT is what Lonestar Memories smells like. If our backpacks had been made of leather, it would impossible to tell the two smells apart.
I've always appreciated the added quality of niche scents, but this is the first that has truly shocked me. I didn't know scents were capable of this kind of depth. Andy Tauer puts some real soul and emotion into his creations.
If you like leathery, natural, rustic, and "unplugged" scents, Lonestar is going to absolutely blow you mind. Even if you aren't a fan of richer leathers, you will appreciate the sheer artistry of this one. Incense and leather sound like an overpowering combo, and usually they are, but Lonestar's leather is comforing and old, and the incense is gently smouldering birchtar laying in a bed of myrrh and tonka. The effect is warm and soothing yet assertive and very manly.
Geranium, Carrot seed, clary sage
Middle:
Birchtar, cistus, jasmine, cedarwood
Base:
Myrrh, tonka, vetiver, sandalwood
To me, it smells like an old hut in the middle of nowhere. Allow me to explain: I recently lived in New Zealand, and being the fan of the outdoors that I am, I went on some backpacking trips. Some of the huts here basically avalanche shelters. Some were so big they could almost have been hotels. And some were literally abandoned trappers' huts. In them were rusted old wood stoves, dented up ash buckets, some half burned wood, maybe a few wool blankets, lots of dirt, and the smell of decades of use by weary, dusty travellers. After tramping through mountains, sleet, rain, mud, rivers, grasslands and snow (usually all in the same day), the sight, smell, and feel of those huts caused a combination of emotions that I still can't totally identify. For dinner, we usually made some variation of vegetable soup and baked beans. Soon, that aroma mingled with the background smell of the hut, and THAT is what Lonestar Memories smells like. If our backpacks had been made of leather, it would impossible to tell the two smells apart.
I've always appreciated the added quality of niche scents, but this is the first that has truly shocked me. I didn't know scents were capable of this kind of depth. Andy Tauer puts some real soul and emotion into his creations.
If you like leathery, natural, rustic, and "unplugged" scents, Lonestar is going to absolutely blow you mind. Even if you aren't a fan of richer leathers, you will appreciate the sheer artistry of this one. Incense and leather sound like an overpowering combo, and usually they are, but Lonestar's leather is comforing and old, and the incense is gently smouldering birchtar laying in a bed of myrrh and tonka. The effect is warm and soothing yet assertive and very manly.
26 September 2006
Visit by Azzaro
Review update. There's too much nutmeg in this. I've started to feel that it dominates the scent for too long. The drydown is still nice, but i've grown tired of the nutmeg. Make sure you like nutmeg before you consider buying this.
20 September 2006
Terre d'Hermès by Hermès
Wow, I've done a total 180 on this one. I received a sample of it very shortly after its release and thought it was a bit heavy on the Patchouli and generally unimpressive. But after smelling through several other umoimpressive summer offerings, I can truly appreciate the quality of this one. The opening simply sparkles. I think of a freshly squeezed, icy cold glass of lemonade. Soon after, subtle (pink?) pepper notes unfold and balance out what the blast of citrus. The rest of the drydown is hard to explain. For me, it retains this general smell of freshing lime (i guess its actually grapefruit, huh...) and pepper while getting smoother. Not sweeter: I hardly smell benzoin here. Perhaps the patchouli is causing this, but is so subtle that they actual smell of patchouli is hard to even notice. Whatever the case, this scent has a distinctly natural, windswept aura about it. I can see how it would be appropriate, as another member said, in the Mexican desert. I will be buying a bottle soon.
18 September 2006
John Varvatos by John Varvatos
Meh, it smells of fruity syrup to begin with, then dries down to a creamy vanilla. I was very surprised by how heavy this one is. It reminds me of the women's CK Euphoria, which is also too sweet. Perhaps a good clubbing scent, but I wouldn't wear it for much else.
05 September 2006
Gucci pour Homme by Gucci
This is probably my fall/winter holy grail. I LOVE this one. Pencil shavings do not come close to describing the quality of the woody ambience of this cologne. No other scent has conjured up such vivid images: I envision a small but lively campfire creating a warm, happy ring of light in the middle of a vast, empty desert. A few people are huddled in fuzzy wool blankets, lost in their thoughts. If i'm feeling less impassioned, it reminds me of my childhood winters. I would run around outside until I was too cold to bear, then come inside and plop in front of the fireplace, which was almost always lit, and just stare at it. Then I would go back out. Basically, it smells like a campfire, but in the very best way possible. The very definition of a comfort scent for me. I wish I had more than 2 thumbs to raise for this one.
05 September 2006
Bel Ami by Hermès
This scent makes me feel like I can take on the world. True, the topnotes are a little overpowering, but about around 20 minutes, you have a spicy, leathery, manly aroma with just a hint of lemon to make it more wearable. The trick is to wear very small amounts, and definitely apply to skin.
05 September 2006
Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier
This is one of the very few orientals that I like. While most are sillage powerhouses with annoyingly sweet bases, this one features a perfectly subtle (but not unnoticable) mixture spices, wood, and a tasteful amount of tonka. Very versatile and very classy. Thumbs up.
05 September 2006
Rush for Men by Gucci
I don't find this to be sharp or bitter in the least. It's certainly very woody, but I get a soft powdery background. It isn't bad or unpleasant, but it definitely lacks depth. Rush lasts no longer than 3 hours on me though, which really surprised me because woods normally stay around forever. I see no reason to get this when jems like Gucci PH and Visit are around.
05 September 2006
Swiss Army by Swiss Army
I owned this scent for a few years. Think bitter wood. Wood Wood Wood. Heavy, obnoxious, too strong for its own good wood. When I had it on, all i wanted was to have it off. I actually think it smells pretty unique, despite what everyone seems to think here. Unfortunately, it stinks.
04 June 2006
Bulgari pour Homme by Bulgari
If I had to pick one word to describe this stuff it would be "appropriate". It's never really out of place, and it will NEVER get on anyone's nerves. But you won't attract any attention either. It's REALLY dry and light. The tea and black pepper dominate for about 2 hours, then its a lot of light musk and just a bit of tea. Not bad. Very elegant actually. Just quite unexciting.
25 May 2006
Gendarme by Gendarme
Meh. I like Mugler Cologne better for the soapy thing. This is too sharp and cold. It really just isn't all that pleasant. And, as you have undoubtedly heard, it doesn't last.
25 May 2006
Echo by Davidoff
Well, it SMELLS good. Unfortunately, it makes my mouth taste like rusty pennies (hey...curiousity got the best of my when I was a kid). I guess it doesn't do this to anyone else though, so it might be good for others. Still, I can't give a thumbs up...or even a nuetral...to a frag that makes me want to spit all day.
25 May 2006
Givenchy pour Homme Blue Label by Givenchy
I like it, but there just isn't anything there to distinguish it from anything else. It does what it does VERY well, but I just have no desire to smell like this (fresh, aquatic, sour with a some spice) anymore. At this point, it doesn't even matter how well made the fragrance is...there just don't need to be more of them. If I smelled this and Bvlgari Aqva next to each other, I would barely be able to tell a difference...but this one is slightly better I think. If you want a fresh aquatic, this is probably the best out there for the price right now.
12 May 2006
Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler
I love it. There really isn't anything not to like in it. You either love it, or you don't mind it. It might seem not to last, but the white musk (but still with a hint of citrus) stays around for quite awhile. Comparable to Gendarme I think, but sweeter in the base. It'll get a lot of play this summer.
12 May 2006
Rive Gauche pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent
I'm sorry, but this smells like a brew of generic deodorant, hairspray, and Barbasol shave foam. I usually like old-school/powdery clean things, but this makes me feel like a dirty old man. I will admit that there are very few colognes that smell like this, but there is a reason for that: colognes aren't supposed to smell like discontinued grooming products.
02 May 2006
Palais Jamais by Etro
Sorry, I don't like it. It smells synthetic (probably the rubber...I don't know if that's a natural tea quality or not, but I don't like it) and medicinal. I usually like tea frags, but this totally doesn't work on me.
01 May 2006
Millésime Impérial by Creed
This would probably be my favorite scent if it lasted longer than 1 or 2 hours. Its fruity and fresh without that sharp soapy feel. WHY must it be so weak!?
01 May 2006
Dior Homme by Christian Dior
It is indeed very subtle. I don't find it to be very fem, just a little sweet and edible. I love the lavender...it seems to offset some of the potential cloying qualities of the caramel/chocolate heart and base. When i wear it, I feel classy and calm.
01 May 2006
Geir by Geir Ness
I'm joining the thumbs up squad. While it's certainly not perfect, as many here make it out to be, it's very pleasant for the most part. That's the word that best sums it up: pleasant. True, it isn't terribly unique, and it even borders on being too sweet much of the time, but it never bothers me or anyone else.
It starts out with a fruity fresh smell mixed with a few dabs of honey. When it starts to dry, you get less fruit, more wood, and still that sweet vanilla/honey thing. As it progresses, I get more and more wood, with a grassy smell that I don't like too much creeping in. It might be the only scent that I own that I find has a worse base than top. It's not bad by any means, just a little bitter and sour smelling at the very end (could just be my skin). Still, the vast majority of the evolution is great, so it gets a hearty thumbs up!
It starts out with a fruity fresh smell mixed with a few dabs of honey. When it starts to dry, you get less fruit, more wood, and still that sweet vanilla/honey thing. As it progresses, I get more and more wood, with a grassy smell that I don't like too much creeping in. It might be the only scent that I own that I find has a worse base than top. It's not bad by any means, just a little bitter and sour smelling at the very end (could just be my skin). Still, the vast majority of the evolution is great, so it gets a hearty thumbs up!
01 May 2006
L'Eau Bleue D'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake
My best friend used to live on a dairy farm. I have a lot of memories from that place. This scent brought them alllll back. Unfortunately, I do not want to smell of wet hay and granulated cattle feed. Yes, wet hay and granulated cattle feed. We used to play in barns full of the stuff, and I clearly remember the smell. I think someone earlier said that this is "agricultural", and I think that's a perfect description. It's not bad, but I don't think it's for me.
18 April 2006
Odeur 53 by Comme des Garçons
It's so unique that i can't give it a thumbs down, but I just don't think its good for much other than spraying on your wrist and sniffing for fun. It reminds me mainly of a dentist's office...very plasticy and sterile. I can also see how people smell drying laundry. Maybe if laudry was drying in a dentist office it would be something like this. Anyway, it's unique, but I don't know many people that could pull this off.
13 April 2006
Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
It's great for having an intense love affair with...whoever is nearby. And for that alone I give it a thumbs up. But I simply cannot imagine wearing this on anything close to a regular basis. It's one of the richest scents i've experienced. I smell a peppered up Pi mixed with the drydown of Burberry Touch. You can almost feel it entering your nose like syrup. Makes me feel like a porn star!
12 April 2006
New Tradition by Etro
I smell the tradition, but not the new. Smells like some old cheap aftershave that my grandfather used to wear. Reminds me of Old Spice, even though it really doesn't smell the same. Its really musty and lavendery, and I just don't like it.
11 April 2006
Eau de Cartier Concentrée by Cartier
Acidic smelling. One of my friends has it and it burns my nostrils. People say this without it being true all the time here...but this really does smell like some kind of bug spray. Maybe it calms down a little after it dries, but I didn't want to stay around long enough to find out.
04 April 2006
Présence by Mont Blanc
For a short while i liked it. Then it seemed too peppery. Then it seemed too sweet. Now it just smells rotten and last time i wore it, it actually made me ill. It never struck me as complex of well-made. It's just not good stuff.
16 March 2006
Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc by Bulgari
I'm usually not a big musk fan, but i like this. The tea balances with the musk and pepper and makes it totally unique. Awesome alternative to aquatic summer frags. It just plain smells good.
16 March 2006
Individuel by Mont Blanc
WOOOAAAHHH this is not for me. Sweet and synthetic and annoying. Doesn't dry into anything nice. Lasts when you don't want it to.
16 March 2006
Blu pour Homme by Bulgari
This is a good scent. I just don't wear it that much for some reason. It's interesting with its sweet gingery spicy powdery notes, but i just have no overwhelming desire to put it on. It the scent to wear if you want to fade into the background. Plus it doesn't really last.
16 March 2006
Higher by Christian Dior
I love the bottle, but the notes are average at best. It's pretty unique, but i'm just not sure i like pear. When it dries, its a light musky woody smell, but it still has that weird spiced pear thing going. It does last though.
16 March 2006
Metal Jeans Men by Versace
Smells ok out of the bottle, but in about 10 minutes is annoying and sour. And then its gone. The end. Don't get it.
16 March 2006
Pi Fraiche by Givenchy
I probably wear this more than anything. It's sweet and and rather fruity out of the bottle. The sweetness stays with it until it fades (which is a really long time). Every female i've asked adores it for some reason. Overall it's great but DO NOT OVERSPRAY. 3 at the most. It creates a really nice aura, but everyone will flee from you if you have too much on.
16 March 2006
Magnetism for Men by Escada
Metallic grapes. That's what immediately comes to mind when i spray it. The drydown is ok, buyt the scent is just WEIRD for a long time. I like scents to be unique, but this is almost overboard. Has this thick syrupy feeling in the nose that just bothers me. The drydown is pretty nice...woody and leathery and warm...but it takes a long time develope past the weird topnotes. For what it's worth, my girlfriend goes adores it. I'll give it thumbs up, but barely.
16 March 2006
Live Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent
I never thought a citrus could possibly be so unique. Quite stong woods keep it from being too sour. When I first got it, it seemed borderline soapy, but when i got used to it, i loved it. Do NOT overspray or it WILL get on your nerves. In moderation, it's wonderful. My top summer scent at the moment.
16 March 2006
M7 by Yves Saint Laurent
It reminds me of Dr. Pepper right when its sprayed, and for about the first hour, it smells really "thick" and medicinal. It put me off at first, but its so unique you almost have to like it. The drydown is just great. Warm and unique and intense. Pretty much has to be worn at night...no way around that. I always feel really suave when i wear it.
16 March 2006











