Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by LiveJazz

Showing all 97 reviews

Sandalwood by Floris

I've done a bit of a turnaround on this one. It's very temperamental in terms of sillage, but it does last longer and project better than I used to give it credit for. Case in point: I was testing several scents on cards one day. At one point I was sitting and relaxing with about 5 cards in front of me, including a few Bond no 9s, some Jo Malone, a Hermes, and on a whim Floris Sandalwood. I kept distinctly smelling the Floris from a distance over the others, but when I stuck my nose in the Floris card to get a good whiff, it really didn't smell that strong. Weird, but interesting. Further testing revealed that the fading in and out effect even more noticeable when the scent is alone.

Behavioral discussions aside, it really does feel like a single-note sandalwood. It starts very alcoholic and gradually - in fits and starts - morphs into a fuller and fuller sandalwood note, with little else there. I used to think it didn't have enough depth...but I failed to realize that you aren't going to have a single-note sandalwood with depth. You want depth, get Santal Noble. At trying to convey the smell of pure sandalwood, Floris succeeds in a way that even Tam Dao can't match.
21 November 2009

Sushi Imperiale by Bois 1920

I love the citrus and nearly edible spices - the cinnamon is particularly nice - in the opening. It is a very attractive accord that has me excited to experience the rest of the evolution. Unfortunately, this scent does not open and up and deepen, as most orientals do. The edible baking spices and citrus fade out completely and I get a rather boring, synthetic smelling anise and light tonka combo in the base. This is reasonably attractive, but there's no depth here. I'll pass, at this price.
19 November 2009

Agrumi Amaria di Sicilia by Bois 1920

It smells quite good, with (as expected) with bitter, sour, natural citrus notes, followed by a vague woody dry down. I enjoy the scent itself (pedestrian though it is), but the longevity is pathetic. And this is coming from someone whose skin usually projects and holds scent well.

It was barely there after all of 10 minutes. If I put my nose IN by wrist. I could get just the tiniest whiff of some soft (sandal?)woody notes. Seriously, I get more out of Eau d'Orange Verte.
19 November 2009

French Lover / Bois d'Orage by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I've been trying to think of succinct ways to describe French Lover. The words I keep returning to are “mysterious green fortress,” kind of like a foreboding Emerald City from The Wizard of Oz.

On the one hand, French Lover is an absolutely shimmering, spicy green fragrance that remains resolutely muscular, dry and somewhat transparent throughout its evolution…a big, glossy, immovable green fortress.

I can’t overstate how prickly the opening peppered greens come off. This accord brings to mind a nettle plant, full of the tiniest prickly thorns, growing in a bed of ground black pepper. Incense and dry vetiver gradually join the spicy nettle-like note (probably the angelica, in reality). Eventually some dirtier notes start to show through. This is not a musky, animalic dirty note to me, but more of an earthy dirty note, almost like the enjoyable perfume of freshly decomposed compost dirt.

But on the other hand, there’s a certain other-worldliness to French Lover. There’s a detached wisp of a black rubbery note in with the green that makes the scent feel rather aloof and spacey at times.

It’s an odd duality for sure: the muscular green block and the spacey rubber. But I can’t stop sniffing it! This would be a great scent for gardening. In Oz. Or on a space station.
18 November 2009

Chevignon by Chevignon

To me, the citrus on top is kept to a minimum; I primarily get a zingy rush of forest-y green and spice notes (possibly cinnamon in there, which may account for the otherwise mysterious "apple pie" comments). The top does smell rather like Christmas. This is followed by a sudden bloom of very resinous, dry, rich wood notes, with subtle piney accents. The green eventually fades out, leaving mostly the resinous woods, a light dose of spice, and a rocky, mineralic amber base.

On me, it's very deep, dry and tenacious base, bordering on powerhouse territory, but never cloying.

I really like it. It provides some real depth and "oomph," but never oversteps its bounds. It smells virile and refreshing, and is suitable for many occasions. This is one of those rare versatile scents that keeps me interested and satisfied.

I think it's discontinued, or at least reformulated, renamed, repackaged, and ruined...but the older version - cardboard looking box, bottle pictured above - can still be had cheaply. Get it NOW.
16 November 2009

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

I received a sample of it very shortly after its release and thought it was a bit heavy and generally unimpressive. I still think the sillage and longevity are almost out of control, probably thanks the oft-discussed chemical additive ISO E Super.

The opening simply sparkles and fizzes. I think of a freshly squeezed, icy cold glass of limeade. Soon after, subtle (pink?) pepper notes unfold and balance out what the blast of citrus. For me, the scent retains this general smell of freshing lime and pepper while getting woodier, dryer, and smoother. Not sweeter: I hardly smell benzoin here, unless the all of the benzoin's typical sweetness was removed and whatever mineralic notes that remain were used. Whatever the case, this scent has a distinctly natural, windswept aura about it. I do tend to go back and forth on it, but overall I respect it and like it.
12 November 2009

Équipage by Hermès

A sparkling, good natured masculine fragrance that perfectly balances a soft, non-resinous pine note, a refreshing and sparkling masculine floral accord, and a just enough warmth (tonka, patchouli, perhaps a touch of tobacco) mixed with the remaining woods in the base to prevent any notion that this scent might be harsh or austere. Simply wonderful. It's classic, but never dated, and warm but never heavy in the least. I just feel great wearing it. Major thumbs up.
12 November 2009

Aquaman by Rochas

I owned this for awhile and thought it was pretty nice and very versatile. I wouldn't call it "aquatic." It's very very dry and spicy, if not especially attractive. The topnotes are bracing and refreshing - especially the sparking grapefruit/eucalyptus top, which I really enjoy. Longevity is minimal.
11 November 2009

Pi by Givenchy

It smells like ambiguous vanilla chemicals. Not *completely* unpleasant: there a few aspects that I appreciate. It isn't syrupy sweet like a bakery; it's actually a rather dry, ambery vanilla note, I guess because it's actually benzoin. It seems like there's this beautiful soft powdery drydown, gorgeous by itself, that's exists side-by-side with that chemical note. It's just very very unrefined, and not something I want to smell like all day. The smell seems like it should be emitted from a Glade Plugin.
11 November 2009

La Nuit De L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

It's basically the original minus the classy and understated finesse, plus extra synthetic sweetness. Fans of Givenchy Play might like it.
08 November 2009

Sandalo e The by Bois 1920

I find it thin, astringent, and discordant. Yes, the name and the notes are quite accurate. It starts with a very strong jasmine/floral note, backed by a hint of tea and a lot of sugariness. Some sandalwood eventually emerges, I think, but this is a waxy, wimpy sandalwood that does little to balance the overwhelming sweetness and the synthetic-smelling florals that dominate. This is the only Bois 1920 that I dislike.

Edit: Actually, the sandalwood deep in the base is pretty good...smooth and round. It just takes so long to get there, and I just don't like that harsh jasmine and tea accord in the heart. Ah well, maybe it's my skin.
03 November 2009

Dirty English by Juicy Couture

Wow, Vibert captured this scent in a single sentence: "Once past its rather jumbled array of citrus and spice top notes, Dirty English resolves into a boozy, animalic leather set alongside a dry, scratchy, spiced conifer wood accord."

That is an excellent description of Dirty English. The leather accord dominates on my skin, and I'm glad it does. A hint of spices, wood and amber are there in the background, and serve only to make the scent a bit more approachable.

After the somewhat unpleasant topnotes, this is an wonderful dry, spicy leather scent. Juicy had some guts to introduce something like this in today's fragrance market.
21 October 2009

1920 Extreme by Bois 1920

Bergamot, Fern, Jasmine, Brazilian Tonka beans, Bourbon vanilla.

Am I smelling the right fragrance? Because the notes listed above are not what I smell at all. First off, I don't like the opening much. It is intensely bitter and tenacious. I honestly can't identify the notes, but I know it isn't fern and bergamot. There are some intense, dry herbs and a strong helping of bitter, aromatic woods.

Luckily, it doesn't take long for the scent to calm down. There are still herbs and woods present, but they are much friendlier version of their former selves. At this point I can start to detect some pepper, some masculine florals (geranium? carnation?) and some piney notes, plus some tonka starting to inch its way in.

From there, the everything basically stays in place, but becomes more mellow, aided by the the growth tonka/vanilla notes. Take note: this is NOT a vanilla fragrance. The vanilla acts solely as a smoothing agent, gently massaging the restless woods and dry herbs. It is very good.
09 October 2009

Real Patchouly by Bois 1920

This is spectacular stuff. Somerville Metro Man's review describes my experience with it perfectly. The opening is strong, sweet patchouli, tempered with a bit of citrus and what I'd call a slightly nutty note. As the patchouli note itself becomes a bit more woody in nature, a vanilla note creeps in to provide some sweetened smoothness, keeping the accord from becoming too abrasive. The final version of the patchouli is my favorite: the note becomes a little more bitter and aromatic - a soft, dry patchouli backed by a subtle dose of powdery amber. The entire evolution is pure heaven; this is the most approachable, wearable patchouli fragrance I've ever tried.
09 October 2009

Cannabis Santal by Fresh

Sweet, light, simple and boring. I smell an unidentifiable sugary/powdery accord that almost completely fails to interest me. There is a hint of creamy nuttiness to it, if you concentrate, but other than that, there just doesn't seem to be anything behind it. I don't smell any chocolate.
08 October 2009

Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

Updated review:

I gave this one another chance, and my opinion of it has improved slightly. The topnotes truly are beautiful. I get more lime and than lemon, and this combined with the basil and rosemary smells outstandingly natural, refined and pure.

But after about an hour of pleasure, there is just something about the way the moss and citrus and the basil mix that just doesn't sit right for me! The basil starts smelling wilted and old. I'm really beginning think it's my skin, because I don't get any jasmine to speak of, and rather than vetiver, I just get a damp, stale mossy note. It turns harsh and bitter and sour, with some sweaty animal notes thrown in. I'll give it a neutral for the topnotes and because I really suspect that it might be excellent on the right person.
08 October 2009

L'Homme Sage by Divine

L'Homme Sage is an excellent scent. I understand the critiques that it doesn't really have a "quirk" about it, but at the same time, what really smells like it? It's one of those scents that manages to seem familiar, strong and comforting even though it stands alone. To me, this is a mark of greatness.

The fact that reviewers are so diverse in their impressions of L'Homme Sage is also telling. It features an array of contrasting notes that really seem to fit together like puzzle pieces - this is an exquisitely blended fragrance that, upon multiple wears, reveals some deep, deep hidden characteristics.

The opening for me is dry, parched fruit and spices. This is not juicy fruit or refreshing fruit, but sun-baked fruit with all sweetness removed - fruit essence. Incense starts creeping in almost immediately and for me, it's a dominant figure throughout the evolution of the scent. As the opening salvo of fruit essence and exotic spices fade to the background, a resinous, parched, smoky, woody, amber accord comes into play.

I never quite understood the meaning of the word "resinous" in reference to fragrance before. L'Homme Sage made me understand. Here it is a half-burnt, oily wood aroma, combined with a dusty amber note. A good helping of oakmoss gives the base an uncommon depth and richness. You can almost feel it enter your nose swirl around your olfactory nerves.

Like L'Air du Desert Marocain, everything about this scent is arid, but where that scent is like dry rocks and spices, this is like dry timbers, aged with years of woody smoke. The whole accord reminds me of a rich, smoky leather, but on closer analysis, I don't actually notice a leather note, per se. All this while little traces of background notes flit in and out. A little soil here, a little green there, some pepper peeking out over yonder.

Anyway, I strongly recommend it. You could spend months familiarizing yourself with this gem. It is nuanced and fascinating while always remaining immensely wearable and strangely familiar.

08 October 2009

Tom Ford for Men by Tom Ford

I am shocked that Tom Ford for Men is so unpopular here! To me, this is almost the perfect understated winter workhorse.

It opens with a nice, bracing bouquet of dry citrus and spices. There is no sweetness in the citrus at all: it is a very manly opening. Soon after, the citrus fades I get a slightly green but mostly peppery patchouli accord. Mossy woods and tobacco gradually enter the equation and soon we have a nearly perfect masculine base.

The evolution is steady and fluid. Tom Ford for Men is one of those scents that is blended so well that the evolution is difficult to track in terms of distinct phases. It just morphs and evolves as the notes fade in and out. There is nothing synthetic or cloying or obnoxious about it.

It lasts well over 12 hours on me, but stays close to the skin. I feel good in it, and people like it. There are no standout notes, but that is not a requirement for me. It is a standout in that it smells great.
30 September 2009

Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermès

Edit: "Rose" in the name is not referring to an actual rose note. It refers to the grapefruit: "Pink Grapefruit." So the comments about lack of rose in the scent are retracted.

I would have liked some rose with my pamplemousse, but Eau de Pamplemousse Rose smells perfectly good without it. I agree completely with a previous reviewer who said that this is the EDC version of TdH, plus a splendid, sparkling grapefruit note on top.

I cannot overstate how refreshing and effervescent this grapefruit is. I think this is one of the best citrus openings I've smelled, and it lasts well into the heart for me. Again, as the heart transitions to the base, this begins to smell like a lighter version of TdH (spicy green vetiver), with a hint of something edibly sour (others have said rhubarb) and minus some pepper. I was prepared for the worst when it came to longevity and sillage, but both are respectable on me. An excellent summer fragrance...possibly better than TdH, which I find very easy to overapply.
25 September 2009

Jicky by Guerlain

There was recently a thread about how some fragrances smell different up close (when your nose is on your wrist versus a waft from the chest). I think Jicky is exhibit number one of this phenomenon.

On first application, it smells like a relatively normal sweet, powdery citrus. Out of nowhere, the civet springs out of hiding and takes hold of the accord. This particular civet has a bit of a sense of humor:

If you smell it up close, it is quite fecal to me. Truly disgusting.

However, if you fan it toward your face or let it waft toward you, it is very polite and compliments the accord. Strange. So...just don't smell it up close and you should be fine!

As the scent progresses, the opening citrus and the civet take a back seat and I start to get more jasmine and vanilla. After about two hours the base is fully developed into an absolutely sexy accord with just the right amount of animalistic qualities, with the civet hard to identify as a single note. It plays a supporting role with the vanilla at center stage, giving the vanilla that three dimensional, slightly spicy, spiky rawness that is no rare. The sweet base is not cloying in the least (which is rare for me).

Overall, definite thumbs up. The top might raise some eyebrows, but the base is worth it.
23 September 2009

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

I'll admit that the opening is a bit hard to take. It comes screaming out of the bottle like a banshee and this wall of clove and citrus and flowers and powder and incense and artemisia and civet and who knows what else slams you in the face like an oncoming train. Experienced or not, it is a rather extreme opening. But...I like it. It's fascinating.

I don't see the evolution so much as a progression of notes, but rather a gradual fade-out of certain notes. It seems to start with everything present, then focus itself slowly. First goes the citrus, followed by the artemisia, leaving behind a powerful clove and floral accord augmented by the bright civet note. The civet starts to tone it down next, along with the heady florals, and we're left with a surprisingly mellow melange of incense and honeyed powder, with just a hint of that good old civet to add depth. And there it stays to the end.

What strikes me most about this scent is its lack of anything normally found in men's fragrances. There are no greens, barely any citrus, no wood to speak of to my nose. It's a well-blended abstraction of notes that sound like they ought to be dissonant, but work together to form a massive, sculpted block of smell. The combination of notes is so powerful and so bursting with energy that's hard to pin everything down and analyze it. I understand its detractors, but I still very much admire and like Kouros.
23 September 2009

Live Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent

Oh yes, my namesake! I also do play jazz music on occasion, so I didn't name myself completely after this nice little fragrance. Still, I must speak on its behalf.

This was my first YSL...the scent that introduced me to this edgy and unique house. It's one heck of a fresh fragrance. The grapefruit/mint to coriander/rhubarb evolution is just great. To this day, I have not smelled anything quite like it. The accords are bracing and sour, like a snappy little slap in the face before a more relaxing drydown with just the faintest whiff of dry vanilla with a more ample helping of wood (ambergris? I don't know about that...). I highly recommend it as a summer fragrance if you're looking for a very dry, sharp citrus with distinctive notes.
23 September 2009

Escada Homme by Escada

I like Escada Homme. It opens with fairly straightforward accord dominated by a mandarin note. The mandarin is quickly joined by the famous cognac. I wouldn't be able to identify it as cognac per se, but it is definitely boozy. In the context of the scent, it smells like a nice orange liquor, with cardamon and some other sweet spices in the background.

Up to this point, the Escada smells very thick. I envision big, wet scent molecules. You can almost feel the scent's presence around you (I get the same feeling from M7...must be the thick, fruity, spiciness).

However, over the course of about 20 minutes, the scent calms down and dries out drastically. While I appreciate the opening, this is the part where I start to really like the scent. The accord retains a light, peppery, boozy note from the opening, but the foundation is a heavenly sandalwood/musk duo on me. I wish the patchouli showed through more, but that's ok because it smells great just how it is. A very attractive scent with a beautifully structured evolution. Get it cheap!
22 September 2009

212 Men by Carolina Herrera

After a bland, kind of sheer and clear fruity/floral opening that reminds me of a stronger and more synthetic version of L'Eau Par Kenzo, we get a heart and base with a shocking lack of blandness!

I always just assumed that the base would be that ambery-wood accord that perfumers seem to toss around so often, which is why I never really gave it the time of day. But 212 turns very dry with (just as jenson says) incense and sandalwood, softened slightly with some sort of clear musk - exactly as the pyramid says (which certainly doesn't happen often for me). Excellent! It smells rich without being overbearing.

I'm still not a huge fan of the opening, but the outstanding base smells like it could have come from something much more expensive and well-regarded.
22 September 2009

Axe Kilo by Axe / Lynx

This was by far my favorite Axe scent (back when I used to wear Axe). I think it appealed to be because a) everyone I knew was wearing Pheonix, b) Pheonix smelled too soapy to me at the time, and c) it was sweet and seemed distinctive compared to other body sprays. I still think it's a pretty nice scent, and I have to give it credit for being the first product I wore solely because I thought it smelled good. Kilo singlehandedly sparked my interest in fragrance.
17 September 2009

Vetiver by Guerlain

I've my decant of it for close to a year now. Every time I select it as my SotD, I'm a little excited because I think that THIS will be the day that Guerlain Vetiver (new formulation) finally clicks for me. Alas, it has never happened. Which is odd because I like vetiver, and I like citrus.

The dealbreakers for me are the nutmeg note and the strong tobacco note. I already knew that I didn't like these notes when I decided to give this scent a try, but I thought that since they're basically supporting notes in the generally terrific cast, I could deal with it. But no, the suffocating tobacco and noxious nutmeg hijack the accords and ruin the whole thing for me. It's like watching an amazing movie in a theater and knowing that it's an amsolute masterwork, but the sound is slightly off and there projector is making a big blotch in the corner of the screen. You just can't appreciate it anymore.

If you like vetiver but are not fond of the heavier notes that Vetiver makes use of, I suggest something like CdG's Vettiveru, Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire, or Creed's Original Vetiver. These are "brighter" rentitions of this theme, and work much better on me.

All that said, I can't give this a thumbs down. The evolution is too perfect, the balance of the notes too impressive, the sillage just right. No, I don't like it for myself, but it is certainly a noteworthy blend.
03 September 2009

Swiss Army by Swiss Army

Swiss Army was literally the first fragrance I ever owned. At the time, I just don't think I was prepared for it, as non-threatening as it seems to me now. I bought it because it said Swiss Army on it, and I'm the outdoorsy type. But the bitter greens, brisk lavender, and sharp woods were simply too much for me.

After buying it again (years later) on a whim, I have done a complete and total turnaround. In a world of so few quality fresh fragrances that seem to be dominated by citrus -> sweet -> bland evolutions, something like Swiss Army is indispensable. Those sharp, minty, long-lasting green notes seem quite natural, and a fresh-clipped lavender note compliments the woods deep into the drydown. It's always noticable, but never cloying. You just keep thinking, "Wow, this is really nice!"

Even when we are left with just the woody base, there’s just something nice about it. It isn’t the same “blah” powdery woods we have all grown used to, but rather green, fresh woods. I particularly like the cypress note in the base, deepened with a hint of musk. Longevity is great…about 9 hours for me. This is a high quality, versatile and relatively interesting fresh scent.
03 September 2009

Body Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

This is one of the few sweet scents that I like enough to give it a full-fledged thumbs up. I think it's because, although the sweetness is quite pronounced, it isn't the point of Body Kouros. It's just so many things at once: cool, spicy, smoky, modern, powdery, and yes, sweet too.

How you view this fragrance really depends on your frame of mind when you put it on. At times, it smells refreshingly clean, like something I'd put on after a workout. At other times, it's hot, sweet, and ragingly seductive. Most of the time, it has a nice spicy/powdery cutting edge feel to it, which is helped along by the striking addition of eucalyptus.

It might give you some trouble in the heat, but I still feel that it’s appropriate for a summer night if applied sparingly.
02 September 2009

The Dreamer by Versace

It reminds me of a mix between two of my least favorite scents - Le Male and D&G PH - but it's better than either of those. It has Le Male's minty-sweet synthetic opening - but that fades pretty quickly. A lingering synthetic, light sweetness from the top remains to lighten the tobacco base, making it more tolerable than D&G's loud, wretched take on the note. As nice as the development is, the topnotes are just so synthetic, thick, and unpleasant. I can't give it a pure thumbs up, but I respect it.
01 September 2009

Aramis by Aramis

I like it a lot. On me, it smells like a lighter, friskier, and all-around more enjoyable version of Hermes Bel Ami. They share startling citrus topnotes, a barely noticeable floral background, and a deep leathery base. However, where Bel Ami gets nauseatingly heavy with a fog of vanilla and oppressive leathery chemicals, Aramis keeps its humor as it dries into a nice light patchouli/sandalwood accord that compliments and freshens the leather notes. Very nice and very wearable. Big thumbs up; I'll be getting a bottle soon.
31 August 2009

Vintage by John Varvatos

It starts out something like the original, plus some various spices, then dries to a bland "suede" vanilla. Which means they're trying to justify and market a synthetic vanilla note. I tested this having not read these reviews or really knowing anything about the fragrance. I was kind of hoping a for a leathery version of the original, just by looking at the bottle. I guess I should have known better.
31 August 2009

Burberry the Beat for Men by Burberry

I have to admit that I was skeptical of all the "pure pepper" reviews. Plus, I like dry pepper notes. But come on Burberry, I like pepper...but within reason! After about 10 seconds of a green opening, it smells like ground black pepper and nothing else. It dries down in 20 minutes to - wait for it - nothing. Not even a bland woody cedar base. And I usually don't have longevity problems. Get your act together, Burberry.
31 August 2009

Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone

When I smell this is scent, the image that comes to mind is a violent battle between three very respectable and astute gentlemen: Mr. Lime, Mr. Basil, and Mr. Pepper. After a friendly handshake and amiable introduction, the trio sees that they have irreparable differences and begin squabbling. This escalates into an all-out war. Mr. Lime, a likable firebrand thrillseeker, takes the early lead and overtakes his competitors, but he soon becomes tired and frustrated with Basil and Pepper, who are sneaky bastards. They form an alliance and pummel Lime to death, leaving him to rot, which he does, judging by his smell. Pepper and Basil are tortured by guilt, and become harsh and bitter with age.

Everyone loses, including the poor fellow who made this stuff his SotD.
31 August 2009

Magnetism for Men by Escada

Yes, the opening smells of grape soda with a metallic twang. This is not an entirely pleasant top accord, but you have to give it points for being quite unique in the modern fragrance environment.

Luckily, the opening fades quickly enough and is replaced with a steadily growing melange of spices, musk and leather. The drydown really is quite sexy (and a little animalic!). Bottom line: while the opening puts Magnetism dangerously close to cheap-teeny-fruit-punch territory, the unusually interesting and attractive development keeps it safe.
28 August 2009

Gucci by Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

I usually like the earthy green violet note in frangrances, so I was pretty excited to try Gucci by Gucci. Unfortunately, the violet is buried under a cloyingly sweet berry-flavored bubblegum note that doesn't go away for some time. This is gradually replaced by a (more) tolerable sweet tobacco note. But that synthetically sweet bubblegummy note keeps tagging along, refusing to leave you alone.

I can see why Gucci made this (they are and have been a very wood-and-spice dominated house lately), and I think the notes used had the potential to be great...but basically the perfumer failed and created a cloying green mess.
26 August 2009

Burberry for Men by Burberry

Wow, a mid-nineties fragrance with a tart, sharp citrus opening, a peppery heart, and an amber/woody base. Who would have thought?

Honestly, we have Platinum Egoiste. We have Jazz. We have XS. We have about 65 more. I don't know which predated which, and I don't care. I'm just sick of smelling it.

The one redeeming quality: I get a pretty nice boozy accord about a half hour in. It then fades to the synthetic woody base we've come to dread.
24 August 2009

L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

It's easy to write it off as a just another citrus-fades-to-sweet scent that's basically nice but not much more...but I think it really opens up in the heart and base. The ginger is unusually silky, and the basil (which I wouldn't have guessed would blend so nicely with ginger) is just subdued enough not to give an overly herbal feel. This is layered over a pleasant layer of florals.

Tonka is one of the few sweet notes I can tolerate, and I think L'Homme uses it in the base with a lot of class, and does a good job of counteracting the sweetness with a small dose of barely detectable vetiver. The overall effect is quite smooth; just sweet enough, just green enough.

The best thing for me about this scent is that I can actually pick out each of these notes, and I can still appreciate the whole thing as a cohesive and attractive accord. Many scents either smell good but feature muddled notes, or have decisive notes but smell "spiky" as a result. L'Homme balances the equation nicely.

Yes, it does smell very modern, but it also smells very good.
24 August 2009

Guerlain Homme by Guerlain

The mojito note is surprisingly tasteful and long-lasting on my skin. Mint isn't a note I'm usually attracted to, but placed in this nice boozy nest, it doesn't come off as toothpastey or too sharp like it usually does.

The middle florals are light and pleasant, and I still get just a hint of that boozyness to keep things interesting. As others have said, the base is certainly nothing groundbreaking. But again, it smells good. Just because Guerlain is a mighty house doesn't mean everything they produce HAS to be groundbreaking throughout its evolution. The top and heart are distinctive and effective enough that I'll let the base slide and give it a thumbs up.
21 August 2009

Armani Code / Black Code by Giorgio Armani

I friend of mine once owned this. I now have a sample. I must say that I like it. It's one of those scents where you can complain all you like about how its linear, it isn't terribly unexpected, it doesn't have a standout ingredient, etc. But...it smells great. Wonderful. You have to give it that. It doesn't last long and it doesn't have astounding projection, but while its there, it is outstanding. Nose glued to wrist.

I don't hold its lack of complexity against Armani. This is a designer scent. It is meant to smell great and appeal to the masses. It does both of those things, and manages not to make a mockery of itself in the process. I say bravo to Armani on this one!
17 December 2008

Infusion d'Homme by Prada

An interesting scent, although you wouldn't think it at first sniff. A green powdery iris with a bit of soap? Yawn. And really, as far as iris is concerned, you can do a lot better - I'm looking at you, L'Homme Coeur.

But the iris isn't supposed to be the main player here. This one is unexpectedly complicated. Infusion opens with a nice green, irisy blast. Very pleasant and refreshing. It immediately puts me a good mood. This is a nice gathering of notes. Things are proceeding nicely, and everyone is getting along.

Enter Gendarme's drunken evil twin! The other guests tolerate him, but he would really be a better asset to the party if he calmed down a little and stopped trying to sell them fancy soaps. Luckily, he passes out soon enough.

From here, a sweet green powder accord takes over and a creates slightly synthetic but pleasing and calming aura that lingers for hours. An exciting drama (especially for a designer scent). It would take some convincing to get me to buy a bottle, but I definitely think it's an admirable and relatively unique release.
15 December 2008

Original Vetiver by Creed

This is too soapy. To me, it doesn't smell natural, it doesn't smell like vetiver, it doesn't smell like freshly cut grass, and it's not particularly smooth. It smells like a VERY nice soap. Maybe the body wash would be a good investment...this would certainly wake you up in the morning. If you're looking for a nice soap scent with good longevity, this is a top option, but I'm just not a fan of the genre. I was hoping for more vetiver and/or grass.

My favorite aspect of OV is the peppery dryness, but that note is done much better in Ormonde Jayne's Isfarkand, a similar but much more interesting (read: less soapy) scent.
13 December 2007

Blue Agava and Cacao by Jo Malone

I like it. It's very smooth and velvety. If anyone has seen the movie Chocolat, this is what I imagine that thick, beautiful hot chocolate that tempts everyone in the town to sin smells like.

This is not a one note chocolate scent though. I definitely detect the green agave cactus note that gives the scent part of its name. A funky, unique, and totally unexpected note that brings back memories my childhood in Texas, where my Hispanic friend's mom would would fry up whole pieces fresh picked agave for lunch, or mince it in with eggs for breakfast. The cinnamon is the icing on the cake, and perfectly rounds out the base of this treasure.

This might be bottle worthy for me because of these associations and because this is the first chocolate scent I've really liked.
13 December 2007

Acier Aluminium by Creed

I've spent quite some time trying to wrap my mind around this one. I really expected to like it, and it was the most anticipated of my recent Creed decant binge. I don't think I'll be able to like it though.

I get a dirty vibe from it, which I usually don't mind. But I get an inescapable connection to that blue juice that they use to flush airplane toilets. Weird, I know, but I can't help it. It's the sanitary nature of Kouros plus a bunch of fake-smelling fruit and spices. I don't get a whole lot of evolution out of it either, and the drydown is basically a bland version of the top. It does, however, last days. I'll give it that.
06 December 2007

Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone

Wow, this is one of the more unique fragrance experiences I've had in awhile. I think everyone's comments so far have been valid. Depending on what you're thinking when you smell it, it can smell like Vicks, fruit, cloves, pepper, patchouli or frankincense. However, it does not smell overdone; despite its many opposing characteristics, it strikes me as rather minimalist and dry. I must admit that I was slightly put off by the (it's true) harsh opening. I thought of a minty and smoky version of L'Anarchiste, and I smelled a strong clove note. But where L'Anarchiste puts me off, this intrigues me. It doesn't have the same sickly aura about it. The drydown focuses more on the frankincense and patchouli, while the fruit peeks from the background. This is a wonderful, wonderful drydown. I'll have to sample it a few more times to make up my mind, but there is a very good chance this is bottle worthy for me.
02 December 2007

Bleecker Street by Bond No. 9

Many have commented on the supposed ambery vanilla drydown of Bleecker Street. I get nothing of the sort. Maybe it's just my skin, but this one is all green all the way, plus a bit of wood and powder in the drydown. Still mostly green, though, all the way through.

The top is sharp and herbal. So sharp that at first I thought it was spicy. But if you really concentrate, it's just a very prickly green accord. As someone already said, there is something like lime zest in there, but that isn't listed as a note. All kinds of herbs (thyme, notably), but the most striking element of Bleecker Street for me is the violet leaves in the middle. This note lends a strong and definite earthy note in the heart of this one, like nothing I've smelled before. It's almost like dirt. Grassy dirt. But the way it's blended in the various herbs and greens is hypnotic.

Overall, I think of Kiton Men (in terms of the sharp, prickly, "spicy" greens) with dirtier, richer feel to it. I like it. Kiton's the one you wear with a suit. This is what you wear to play frisbee at the park.
10 November 2007

Polo by Ralph Lauren

I really like this one. I put off testing on myself for a really long time because of the many naysayers, but I really should have known better. I like green scents. It smells absolutely majestic. I think of Yatagan made more accessible with the addition of more conventional notes of pine and subtle tobacco. This is one of the more wearable of the power scents. Not a hint of sweetness here, but it still has a touch of something gentle in it. It smells trustworthy and honest...like a leader who does not choose to lead, but ends up leading by default. I think I'll get a bottle for the winter.
05 November 2007

Bois du Portugal by Creed

Wow, this one absolutely deserves every bit of the raving hype it gets. I have a definite weak spot for dry spicy woods fragrances, and this once certainly fits the bill. It's the best in the category that I've smelled. Like Caron's Third Man, this one changes an unbelievable amount through the drydown. Both start out dominated by lavender, but while Third Man turns warm, sweet, thick, and almost damp, Bois du Portugal is like a sauna.

I get a very strong incense accord after the lavender fades, and this sticks around and gets spicier for a few hours. I felt like I needed a glass of water. Gradually, a very light powder note appears. This stays completely in the background though. The spice and woods definitely dominate, but now they take on a soapy oakmoss character. I've smelled an accord like this before in Divine's L'Homme Sage. It's a sweeter drydown there, but both are oakmoss beasts as far as I can tell.

I find BdP to be very charismatic and wearable in small doses...a streamlined beast that never tries to be too many things at once.
24 October 2007

Polo Double Black by Ralph Lauren

I am very impressed by the topnotes. I'm definitely a sucker for spicy accords, and black pepper notes in particular. And mango is my favorite fruit. This is a very unique, refreshing, and compelling combo. Unfortunately, the drydown is less than spectacular. I suspect that this has to do with skin chemistry, because rather than warming up and smoothing out on me, as others have said, this turns sour, bitter, and unpleasantly sweet. I didn't smell coffee in it at all. Just some basic woods and sweetness. I would give it a thumbs down, but the topnotes are just so damn delicious, so I can't.
20 October 2007

Un Jardin en Méditerranée by Hermès

Well, I just can't make up my mind about this one. On the one hand, it smells pretty. Pleasant enough, and unlikely to offend. But if I think about it too much, I start to notice elements that remind me of a cheap womens' perfume from the likes of Escada. Then I snap out of it and stop thinking about it too much, and it smells modern, weightless, stark, and transparent (as we've come to expect from Ellena) again. You can easily convince yourself either way on this one. Is that part of its genius, or is it an expensive unisex perfume that borders on the mundane? I'm not going to buy a bottle just to figure it out.
20 July 2007

Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro

A violent concoction of lavender and spices attacks for nose to start, followed by a sickeningly sour heart and a dull base...

...if you spray it on a card.

If you spray it on your skin, however (well, my skin anyway), it blossoms into a rich, woody, subdued, slightly musky aura scent. Gotta love the ambergris drydown. In an Azzaro. Who'd have thought?? The only aspect of it that I'm not a fan of is the strong anise on top, but it fades soon enough on my skin. Good all-around scent.

18 July 2007

Baldessarini by Baldessarini

Well, I got this one blindly in a swap. I was expecting to be underwhelmed, but this is quickly joining Bvlgari PH as my standard work fragrance.

Sure, it's a little sweet, but it's such a transparently clean sweetness. Baldessarini is to sweet what Bvlgari PH is to musk. Very sheer and very easy to handle. Sillage isn't great (I don't want it to be if it's going to serve as a more formal selection), but longevity has been fine on me. This is one of the few scents featuring tobacco that work well on me. It's very well blended and smooth.

No, it isn't groundbreaking or particularly interesting, but I think there's something to be said for a cologne that just smells damn good all the time. This one certainly fits the bill.
03 July 2007

Kiton Men by Kiton

I've never truly liked a green scent before. It seemed that they were always too sharp...too dry...too grassy...too something. But Kiton Men just NAILS it. Perfect 10.

It starts out with a spicy zing that immediately catches your attention. You think for a second that this might be a Fahrenheit copy without the gasoline note. But within a few seconds it morphs into more of a floral green, and all but a hint of the spice has vanished. Kiton stays at this stage for quite a long period, announcing its utterly refreshing and smooth elegance with respectable sillage. The drydown is actually quite different from the rest of the scent for me. Almost powdery in an irisy kind of way. But I don't see iris on any scent pyramids, and I'm not sure that iris has the stamina to show as a basenote anyway. It's probably a subtle tonka note that's "greened" by everything around it. It’s Perfect for any situation and any season, though it's probably best for summer and spring. I love it.
05 June 2007

Bulgari Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

I will be very blunt:

Other than Kenzo PH, this is the most authentic smelling marine fragrace on the market in this price category. If you like very oceanic, bitter, authentic marines, get it. If not, aviod it. Simple as that.
09 May 2007

Philosykos by Diptyque

The topnotes: banana tree leaves. Exactly. When I was young, I used to have to prune my family's banana plants for the winter, or else all of the leaves would turn brown and make a big mess. I would take a big clipper and go at it. The juices that oozed out of the plants smelled like the topnotes of Philosykos. Period.

The midnotes: fresh figs, right off the tree. If you've ever smelled one, you'd recognize it. They don't smell fruity, they smell creamy/green. Just a hint of something coconuty in there.

I don't pick up much change after this point. The midnotes just soften and gradually fade to nothing. Total evolution is about 3 hours for me.

A remarkable achievement to be sure. No idea how Olivia pulled this off, but it is amazing! I've never smelled something so authentically natural. Unfortunately, I don't want to smell like a tree-ripened fig all day, as amazing as the effect might be. I won't be wearing it much, but I will be marveling at it in private regularly. Thumbs way up for the perfumer!
25 April 2007

Dune pour Homme by Christian Dior

I really wanted to like this one. It smells pleasant. It's nice and dry and versatile, and it smells very natural. But there just isn't much substance there. It's too transparent. When I smell it, I think of a veeeery light shade of green. Almost white, but not quite. It's not one to get excited about. It needs a little more...something. Beef.

So, I give this somewhere between and neutral thumb and a thumbs up, but closer to the neutral. I might even consider buying it for summer, just because I like much more than most light scents.
22 April 2007

Cuiron Pour Homme by Helmut Lang

Cuiron. My favorite leather. I admit that I have rather limited experience with the category, but still. Wow!

Absolutely nothing smells remotely like it, and very few people wear it. In most cases this means that a fragrance is abstract and difficult to relate to. Not so with Cuiron. It's warm and inviting, yet clean and crisp. It's constantly there, but never overbearing. People love it on me. It's wearable in every season. I see this as the very definition of a great signature scent.

The top is strong and can sting the nostils somewhat, but the plum (which is hard to actually ideantify as plum, but there is definitely a fresh note there) is reassuring and keeps things grounded. After that, you're left with a dry, subdued, manly leather aroma that refreshes, surprises, and lends confidence in equal parts. It's a bit linear after the first hour, but I wouldn't want it to change anyway.

10/10, my favorite fragrance at the moment.
14 April 2007

Clean Men by Clean

Gendarme gone wrong, in my opinion. It's sharp to a fault, which is normal in topnotes, but in this case the obnoxious and unchecked citrus notes continue their assault on your nose for hours. If you mean to smell like a clean man, just get Gendarme.
14 March 2007

Euphoria Men by Calvin Klein

After reading all these reviews I couldn't believe that a fragrance could really be THAT bland. Well, it is. One of the things that makes a fragrance great (or at least good) is its ability to make you think. When I finally had the chance to put this on, I put everything I'd heard about it out of my head and prepared to appreciate it for what it is. And I thought nothing. There it was...a fragrance. On your wrist. A benign smell. Not really citrus, not woody, not ambery, not barbershop. Impossible to hate, impossible to love. And saddest of all, I think that was CK's goal.
14 March 2007

Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

This one is hard to review. On the one hand, I love the smell of it. I love the idea of it. And I love how well Dior executed it. It brings back memories of my family's lawn shed. It always smelled of dried grass, dust, and tractor. I actually used to go in there just to revel in the smell. Even before I'd developed this hobby, I swore that I'd like to smell like that shed did.

Well, I've had the opportunity to smell like that shed, and I didn't like it. It just made me uncomfortable, smelling like dust, grass, and tractor. Sure there are some woody floral notes in there, but that isn't what you notice, is it?

So, thumbs up because it is an amazing scent that I admire and love. I just won't be wearing it on a regular basis.
12 March 2007

Michael for Men by Michael Kors

I can see how one could like this scent a lot. It has many likeable characteristics. It's quite sweet. It's very distinctive. It's sensual.

But to me it's just too brash. It's like a multitude of hyperactive notes are trapped in a tiny cell trying to escape. If the cell were bigger or if the notes were not so energetic, the scent would work. But as they are, they form a clashing, searing, annoying mess.

The tobacco and the plum are big, sweet notes. Incense seems like it would help dry the composition out and smooth the progression a bit, but the incense in Michael reminds me of wet, sweet hookah smoke rather than dry fire-smoke. On top of all this, there's some ugly, medicinal, synthetic note that I can't place in Michael. I can't stand it.
12 March 2007

L'Anarchiste by Caron

Pfff L'Anarchiste my foot!

On the contrary, I find this scent to be very orderly and pleasant, as far as notes are concerned. It starts with a nice little minty orange spice accord that sticks around for a good hour. As the orange and mint tapers off, I'm left with very pleasant, soft spices and musk.

I think all the ado with this one is about the mint/orange scent in the topnotes. Those two aren't thrown together often. They might might not get along too well, but seriously, they aren't anarchists. Eventually they simply make friends and part ways, leaving the always calm and dependable spice and musk notes to take over. Great, great scent...just don't overthink it.
07 March 2007

Bois d'Argent Cologne by Christian Dior

Congrats, Joel_Cairo, on an excellent review there. I don't have a whole lot to add that wasn't in that eloquent review, other than this iris note is AMAZING. It really does smell like a freshly blooming vase of irises to me. As a whole experience, this almost brings down the fragrace a bit. The iris is rather overwhelming at times, and the honey doesn't temper it one bit. It's very sweet and powdery. Although I suspect that I will not be wearing a lot, I'll give a thumbs up for sheer quality.
31 October 2006

No. 88 by Czech & Speake

If you like rose, get it, period. On me, this is like a stronger Voleur de Roses, in which the patchouli and spices are replaced by bergamot and sandalwood. Obviously, the rose takes center stage. Honestly, it's only the top and early heart notes that beat you over the head with rose stems. Mind you, these are freshly snipped, still wet with dew rose stems. If I had to choose any rose stems to be beat on the head with, these are them. But that still doesn't make it an enjoyable experience.

After that, it's much more pleasant. The woody, vetivery qualities begin to shine. As others have said, it's very well made and has a clear progression of notes through its very long life. I like the fact that it doesn't resort to a mish-mash of powder to soften the scent like so many rose scents do. It achives a solid, confident, and very manly drydown that still manages to remain refreshing and versatile. Thumbs down on the top, which is indeed very hard to pull off, and thumbs up on the amazing drydown. So, 3/4. Still a good one IMO.
25 October 2006

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Avignon by Comme des Garçons

I'm not Catholic and never have been much of a churchgoer, so I can't comment this scent's ability to evoke any religious imagry. But I can tell you this is a very, very well made and complex scent.

It's so much more than just incense! While frankincense and myrrh are certainly dominant notes in here (especially during the harsh and someone shocking topnotes), they would never make an acceptable fragrance alone. In rushes the cistus oil (rockrose), which grounds the smoke and gives the fragrance that "stony" feel that others credit for evoking images of cold, stony cathedrals. Old cathedrals definitely do have a musty, dry, rocky scent about them, whether there was ever much insense around or not, and Avignon expertly recreates this smell of incomprehenible "oldness"...and all the history - good and bad- and goes along with it. Tauer acheives the same rocky, mineralic, timeless effect in L'Air du Desert Marocain. What that fragrance does with spice notes, Avignon does with incense. Soon, some dry subtle vanilla enters the scene and softens the overall accord, finally making it more approachable. It's at this point that we stop seeing Avignon as an esoteric study of insense and start to realize that it's actually a pleasant and wearable scent. I'm not sure I smell much of the roman chamomile in this. There is something green and herbal hiding in it, but this accord doesn't really attract attention to itself. Like the vanilla and rockrose, I think it serves to smooth out the rough edges of the scent and give people something familiar to grasp while experiencing this olfactory journey in time. Avignon may take some getting used to if you aren't used to such unabashedly intense, smoky insense notes (I know it took me some time to appreciate it), but wait is definitely worth the realization that this is a masterpiece. If you get to try one insense fragrance in our life, this should be it. Amazing.
16 October 2006

Bulgari Black by Bulgari

Well well well. Bvlgari Black. We meet again. The first time we met, I was astounded that I could be so revolted by a fragrance. You smelled like someone had spilled a cup of stale tea on an old dirty tire. Now, you smell like someone sprayed a sublime vanilla infused tea fragrance on a fresh, shiny tire. A Ferarri tire. And the Ferarri is at a fancy car show featuring many stylish and rich individuals. Honestly, I don't know what happened. Was it my nose becoming more accustomed to unconventional notes? This is an amazing scent. It is minimalistic without being boring. Attention grabbing without being loud and obnoxious. Classy without feeling stifled. Sweet without being cloying. And most importantly, unique without being intimidatingly weird. Despite what others have said, I find sillage and longevity to be better than average. This is an amazingly well thought out and expertly crafted fragrance. Try it!
15 October 2006

Sandalwood Cologne by Geo F Trumper

As far as scnets with "sandalwood" in the name go, this one has a pretty subtle and hidden sandalwood note. This isn't a bad thing, however, if you don't get it expecting another Tam Dao. As others have said, the opening notes start out a rather jumbled mess. For a few minutes it has a sweet/sour note that smells a bit synthetic and very out of place. But, as a chess player set his pieces on a board, the notes quickly organize themselves and start to make some sense. The citrus subsides, and you are left with a floral oriental type smell. Soon after, the florals fade, and some light sandalwood and leather (a sweet, subtle, heavenly barely perceptible leather) takes it place. There it stays, a subtle and not too sweet (i'm very sensitive to sweetness, but this one is one of the rare few that work) brew of magical "citrus-leather-sandalwood harmony".
11 October 2006

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

AlthaeaSoaps said it smelled of burning brake pads. I was trying to think of what the top smelled like, and that's actually a very close comparison. It fades to, as others have said, more of a circus smell. Like cotton candy/animal stall/generator engines. When it dries, it's a bit more grounded and "normal"...more of a subtle sweet/spicy leather. I like it because of it's unique imagry, but I don't think i'd wear it regularly.
30 September 2006

Lonestar Memories by Tauer

Top:
Geranium, Carrot seed, clary sage

Middle:
Birchtar, cistus, jasmine, cedarwood

Base:
Myrrh, tonka, vetiver, sandalwood

To me, it smells like an old hut in the middle of nowhere. Allow me to explain: I recently lived in New Zealand, and being the fan of the outdoors that I am, I went on some backpacking trips. Some of the huts here basically avalanche shelters. Some were so big they could almost have been hotels. And some were literally abandoned trappers' huts. In them were rusted old wood stoves, dented up ash buckets, some half burned wood, maybe a few wool blankets, lots of dirt, and the smell of decades of use by weary, dusty travellers. After tramping through mountains, sleet, rain, mud, rivers, grasslands and snow (usually all in the same day), the sight, smell, and feel of those huts caused a combination of emotions that I still can't totally identify. For dinner, we usually made some variation of vegetable soup and baked beans. Soon, that aroma mingled with the background smell of the hut, and THAT is what Lonestar Memories smells like. If our backpacks had been made of leather, it would impossible to tell the two smells apart.

I've always appreciated the added quality of niche scents, but this is the first that has truly shocked me. I didn't know scents were capable of this kind of depth. Andy Tauer puts some real soul and emotion into his creations.

If you like leathery, natural, rustic, and "unplugged" scents, Lonestar is going to absolutely blow you mind. Even if you aren't a fan of richer leathers, you will appreciate the sheer artistry of this one. Incense and leather sound like an overpowering combo, and usually they are, but Lonestar's leather is comforing and old, and the incense is gently smouldering birchtar laying in a bed of myrrh and tonka. The effect is warm and soothing yet assertive and very manly.
26 September 2006

Visit by Azzaro

Review update. There's too much nutmeg in this. I've started to feel that it dominates the scent for too long. The drydown is still nice, but i've grown tired of the nutmeg. Make sure you like nutmeg before you consider buying this.
20 September 2006

John Varvatos by John Varvatos

Meh, it smells of fruity syrup to begin with, then dries down to a creamy vanilla. I was very surprised by how heavy this one is. It reminds me of the women's CK Euphoria, which is also too sweet. Perhaps a good clubbing scent, but I wouldn't wear it for much else.
05 September 2006

Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

This is probably my fall/winter holy grail. I LOVE this one. Pencil shavings do not come close to describing the quality of the woody ambience of this cologne. No other scent has conjured up such vivid images: I envision a small but lively campfire creating a warm, happy ring of light in the middle of a vast, empty desert. A few people are huddled in fuzzy wool blankets, lost in their thoughts. If i'm feeling less impassioned, it reminds me of my childhood winters. I would run around outside until I was too cold to bear, then come inside and plop in front of the fireplace, which was almost always lit, and just stare at it. Then I would go back out. Basically, it smells like a campfire, but in the very best way possible. The very definition of a comfort scent for me. I wish I had more than 2 thumbs to raise for this one.
05 September 2006

Bel Ami by Hermès

This scent makes me feel like I can take on the world. True, the topnotes are a little overpowering, but about around 20 minutes, you have a spicy, leathery, manly aroma with just a hint of lemon to make it more wearable. The trick is to wear very small amounts, and definitely apply to skin.
05 September 2006

Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

This is one of the very few orientals that I like. While most are sillage powerhouses with annoyingly sweet bases, this one features a perfectly subtle (but not unnoticable) mixture spices, wood, and a tasteful amount of tonka. Very versatile and very classy. Thumbs up.
05 September 2006

Rush for Men by Gucci

I don't find this to be sharp or bitter in the least. It's certainly very woody, but I get a soft powdery background. It isn't bad or unpleasant, but it definitely lacks depth. Rush lasts no longer than 3 hours on me though, which really surprised me because woods normally stay around forever. I see no reason to get this when jems like Gucci PH and Visit are around.
05 September 2006

Bulgari pour Homme by Bulgari

If I had to pick one word to describe this stuff it would be "appropriate". It's never really out of place, and it will NEVER get on anyone's nerves. But you won't attract any attention either. It's REALLY dry and light. The tea and black pepper dominate for about 2 hours, then its a lot of light musk and just a bit of tea. Not bad. Very elegant actually. Just quite unexciting.
25 May 2006

Gendarme by Gendarme

Meh. I like Mugler Cologne better for the soapy thing. This is too sharp and cold. It really just isn't all that pleasant. And, as you have undoubtedly heard, it doesn't last.
25 May 2006

Echo by Davidoff

Well, it SMELLS good. Unfortunately, it makes my mouth taste like rusty pennies (hey...curiousity got the best of my when I was a kid). I guess it doesn't do this to anyone else though, so it might be good for others. Still, I can't give a thumbs up...or even a nuetral...to a frag that makes me want to spit all day.
25 May 2006

Givenchy pour Homme Blue Label by Givenchy

I like it, but there just isn't anything there to distinguish it from anything else. It does what it does VERY well, but I just have no desire to smell like this (fresh, aquatic, sour with a some spice) anymore. At this point, it doesn't even matter how well made the fragrance is...there just don't need to be more of them. If I smelled this and Bvlgari Aqva next to each other, I would barely be able to tell a difference...but this one is slightly better I think. If you want a fresh aquatic, this is probably the best out there for the price right now.
12 May 2006

Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler

I love it. There really isn't anything not to like in it. You either love it, or you don't mind it. It might seem not to last, but the white musk (but still with a hint of citrus) stays around for quite awhile. Comparable to Gendarme I think, but sweeter in the base. It'll get a lot of play this summer.
12 May 2006

Rive Gauche pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

I'm sorry, but this smells like a brew of generic deodorant, hairspray, and Barbasol shave foam. I usually like old-school/powdery clean things, but this makes me feel like a dirty old man. I will admit that there are very few colognes that smell like this, but there is a reason for that: colognes aren't supposed to smell like discontinued grooming products.
02 May 2006

Palais Jamais by Etro

Sorry, I don't like it. It smells synthetic (probably the rubber...I don't know if that's a natural tea quality or not, but I don't like it) and medicinal. I usually like tea frags, but this totally doesn't work on me.
01 May 2006

Millésime Impérial by Creed

This would probably be my favorite scent if it lasted longer than 1 or 2 hours. Its fruity and fresh without that sharp soapy feel. WHY must it be so weak!?
01 May 2006

Dior Homme by Christian Dior

It is indeed very subtle. I don't find it to be very fem, just a little sweet and edible. I love the lavender...it seems to offset some of the potential cloying qualities of the caramel/chocolate heart and base. When i wear it, I feel classy and calm.
01 May 2006

Geir by Geir Ness

I'm joining the thumbs up squad. While it's certainly not perfect, as many here make it out to be, it's very pleasant for the most part. That's the word that best sums it up: pleasant. True, it isn't terribly unique, and it even borders on being too sweet much of the time, but it never bothers me or anyone else.

It starts out with a fruity fresh smell mixed with a few dabs of honey. When it starts to dry, you get less fruit, more wood, and still that sweet vanilla/honey thing. As it progresses, I get more and more wood, with a grassy smell that I don't like too much creeping in. It might be the only scent that I own that I find has a worse base than top. It's not bad by any means, just a little bitter and sour smelling at the very end (could just be my skin). Still, the vast majority of the evolution is great, so it gets a hearty thumbs up!
01 May 2006

L'Eau Bleue D'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake

My best friend used to live on a dairy farm. I have a lot of memories from that place. This scent brought them alllll back. Unfortunately, I do not want to smell of wet hay and granulated cattle feed. Yes, wet hay and granulated cattle feed. We used to play in barns full of the stuff, and I clearly remember the smell. I think someone earlier said that this is "agricultural", and I think that's a perfect description. It's not bad, but I don't think it's for me.
18 April 2006

Odeur 53 by Comme des Garçons

It's so unique that i can't give it a thumbs down, but I just don't think its good for much other than spraying on your wrist and sniffing for fun. It reminds me mainly of a dentist's office...very plasticy and sterile. I can also see how people smell drying laundry. Maybe if laudry was drying in a dentist office it would be something like this. Anyway, it's unique, but I don't know many people that could pull this off.
13 April 2006

Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

It's great for having an intense love affair with...whoever is nearby. And for that alone I give it a thumbs up. But I simply cannot imagine wearing this on anything close to a regular basis. It's one of the richest scents i've experienced. I smell a peppered up Pi mixed with the drydown of Burberry Touch. You can almost feel it entering your nose like syrup. Makes me feel like a porn star!
12 April 2006

New Tradition by Etro

I smell the tradition, but not the new. Smells like some old cheap aftershave that my grandfather used to wear. Reminds me of Old Spice, even though it really doesn't smell the same. Its really musty and lavendery, and I just don't like it.
11 April 2006

Eau de Cartier Concentrée by Cartier

Acidic smelling. One of my friends has it and it burns my nostrils. People say this without it being true all the time here...but this really does smell like some kind of bug spray. Maybe it calms down a little after it dries, but I didn't want to stay around long enough to find out.
04 April 2006

Présence by Mont Blanc

For a short while i liked it. Then it seemed too peppery. Then it seemed too sweet. Now it just smells rotten and last time i wore it, it actually made me ill. It never struck me as complex of well-made. It's just not good stuff.
16 March 2006

Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc by Bulgari

I'm usually not a big musk fan, but i like this. The tea balances with the musk and pepper and makes it totally unique. Awesome alternative to aquatic summer frags. It just plain smells good.
16 March 2006

Individuel by Mont Blanc

WOOOAAAHHH this is not for me. Sweet and synthetic and annoying. Doesn't dry into anything nice. Lasts when you don't want it to.
16 March 2006

Blu pour Homme by Bulgari

This is a good scent. I just don't wear it that much for some reason. It's interesting with its sweet gingery spicy powdery notes, but i just have no overwhelming desire to put it on. It the scent to wear if you want to fade into the background. Plus it doesn't really last.
16 March 2006

Higher by Christian Dior

I love the bottle, but the notes are average at best. It's pretty unique, but i'm just not sure i like pear. When it dries, its a light musky woody smell, but it still has that weird spiced pear thing going. It does last though.
16 March 2006

Metal Jeans Men by Versace

Smells ok out of the bottle, but in about 10 minutes is annoying and sour. And then its gone. The end. Don't get it.
16 March 2006

Pi Fraiche by Givenchy

I probably wear this more than anything. It's sweet and and rather fruity out of the bottle. The sweetness stays with it until it fades (which is a really long time). Every female i've asked adores it for some reason. Overall it's great but DO NOT OVERSPRAY. 3 at the most. It creates a really nice aura, but everyone will flee from you if you have too much on.
16 March 2006

M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

It reminds me of Dr. Pepper right when its sprayed, and for about the first hour, it smells really "thick" and medicinal. It put me off at first, but its so unique you almost have to like it. The drydown is just great. Warm and unique and intense. Pretty much has to be worn at night...no way around that. I always feel really suave when i wear it.
16 March 2006
 
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