Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Tourbillion

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Total Reviews: 6

Eleonora Duse by Laura Tonatto

This is a delicate violet scent based on the personality of turn of the century Italian actress Eleonora Duse. It is not much stronger than the violet water that she is said to have gotten at Harrods back in the day.

This is surprisingly light in terms of sillage and longevity, since I found Dama to be very strong. Still, if you don't mind re-applying often, this is a beautiful scent. This is the only drawback for me.

Laura Tonatto's website lists the notes as ylang-ylang, bergamot, violet, iris, lily of the valley, mimosa, cedar and vanilla. I did detect the ylang-ylang, violet, iris and lily of the valley, and just a trace of the cedar and vanilla base.
04th January, 2011

Prada (original) by Prada

This is a review for the original parfum. It comes in a low, wide round bottle that is gold, glass, and black. There is a gold "cork" so you daub this scent on.

The scent is not too sweet, someone here described it as a white flower, leather chypre and I think that is apt. I can't help thinking that the earlier review was for the new Prada, and I don't really get much patchouli, amber and vanilla in this one. There might be just a smidgen but I doubt it. The notes to me are white flowers, something sharp (and annoying), possibly ylang ylang, probably aldehydes, leather, and something woody, possibly aoud or a tiny bit of vetiver.

There is however a warmth to this fragrance, but there is also an opposing coolness in the flowers and the woody "aoud" note. This is not a floral scent though, it is mostly a leather scent. Once it dries, the scent is almost linear on me, there is always a sense of the floral leather there and the silage is fairly strong, but this is a perfume so it is expected.

It is very different from some of my favorite leather scents, the leather is nothing like Cuir de Russie or Bandit it is more like Cuir Mauresque (but much less sweet), or Oud Cuir D'Arabie (cleaner than this one), so more of a raw leather saddle scent than a shoe or a suede . The scent is almost masculine, but the floral note might scare off some men, and ladies as well.

I am a fan of vintage scents (i.e. 1920's to 1940's) and I can't help thinking that this one belongs to that era more so than to the 1980's when I believe it originated. This is not an easy scent to wear. If you want a sweet comfortable leather I would pass. I do wear this every once in a while, but it is a challenging scent.

Not for everyone.

17th December, 2010

Esperys by Piver

I have a vintage sample of Esperys EDT by Piver, although I am not sure of the date of manufacture. I have done some online research and have discovered that the perfumer is husband of Piver heiress Berta Piver, M. Jacques Rouché along with chemist Georges Darzens.

Jacques Rouché besides being the head of Piver, and the creator of several perfumes was also the director and major donor to the legendary Paris Opera in the early 20th century. He was also elected to the Legion of Honor at the young age of 27 according to French Wikipedia. Quite impressive!

Now on to the perfume. It is surprisingly soft and lovely, especially after my experience with Floramye. I can tell that there are perfectly proportioned aldehydes, it "sparkles." Overall, it is a powdery aldehydic floral. The main floral note seems to be heliotrope (well, there is some rose too), which seems to be a favorite of Piver since it also figures prominently in Heliotrope Blanc and Reve D'Or. This scent is not as sweet as Heliotrope Blanc, it doesn't have the vanilla and almond notes. The jasmine and ylang ylang are also missing or else greatly reduced in this scent. The rather more sophisticated base of Esperys is Orris and a bit of Sandalwood.

It is really beautiful perfume, feminine and delicate just like the lovely Edwardian "Gibson Girls" that it originally adorned. It is really a shame that it is discontinued.
21st October, 2010
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Floramye by Piver

My review is for vintage juice, but I am not sure how old. I don't have any of the new stuff to compare to. I have read in the blog-sphere that the perfumer is Pierre Armigeant (1874-1955) who also created Azurea. I haven't tracked down Azurea yet, but I do have a few other vintage and new Piver's to get around to.

My experience is different from the other reviewer who evidently had new stock to review. The first initial blast is of aldehyde that reminds me of Aquanet. In other words, not pleasant unless you are the nostalgic sort. However another close sniff reveals something that is probably pettitgrain. I get a light hint of what might be civet, or might just be a bit of rancid oil, it is hard to tell. Actually the note reminds me a little bit of my vintage sample of Djedi, which is supposedly "green" and "civet" but neither perfume are at all green to my nose, not even herbal, although I don't have any problems detecting these notes in other perfumes.

The floral middle notes are mostly gone in this sample that I have, so I can only comment on the drydown which is similar to merry.water's review. It is indeed floral and a bit waxy and powdery. I detect a bit of citrus in the drydown too, but that may be from the aldehydes.

I can't say that I recommend the vintage perfume to wear, but it is interesting to sample. I am giving this scent a thumbs up rating, but it is a rather weak one based on my vintage sample.
21st October, 2010

Face à Face Homme by Façonnable

I have this in the form of a sample card with both pour Homme and pour Femme attached. I don't wear the masculine scent myself, but I thought I would for this review. The notes listed on the card are:
Juniper
Badian
Angelica
Artemesia
Pepper
Lily of the Valley
Cedar wood
Sandalwood
Ambergris

It is described as a woody aromatic transparent fragrance and indeed it does transmit a sense of transparency. All I get of the top notes is the Juniper with a hint of pepper, but the woody dry down is soft and nice.
02nd July, 2010

Face à Face Femme by Façonnable

I have a sample card of this that includes the pour Femme and pour Homme fragrances. It calls itself a transparent floral fragrance, and it does have a transparent watery quality without having any marine notes.
Here are the notes listed on the card:
Rose
Coriander leaves
Marigold
Jasmine
Iris
Lily of the valley
Cedar wood
Patchouli
Laudanum

The coriander top note is really strong and a bit unpleasant really. Once this is gone the fragrance is really pretty, the iris and marigold are unusual together I think and the patchouli isn't too strong. The dry down is lovely but not too long lasting.

I am giving it a thumbs up, but almost want to give it a neutral since I don't really like the coriander note.


02nd July, 2010