Fragrance Reviews by Trebor

English Fern is a sharp and yet classy woody-green that, at times, I certainly admire. Unfortunately, there are other times when I’m not in the mood for it, due to its very formal English qualities.

It's definitely worth investigating but I don’t feel compelled to give this one a thumbs up.

Hammam Bouquet is a stuffy old-fashioned rose scent that intrigues but nothing more. The rather unpleasant drydown is the main problem I have with it.

A pleasantly fresh lily scent that, unfortunately, failed to move me. It's worth a try, though.

Ughh! This was far too earthy for my liking. I got more earth and plant roots than the bluebell buds themselves. A cold and sterile scent that I can perfectly do without.

A faint herbal-citrus cologne that doesn't last long. I’d rather spend my hard-earned cash on something else, thanks.

I’m no expert on violet scents but this is quite excellent.

The opening burst of violets is very green and it stays this way for quite a while. During the drydown, the green notes eventually fade, leaving a light candied violet accord that stays quite close to the skin. It never becomes unnecessarily sweet, and the whole composition smells both very natural and uplifting.

I’ll have to investigate other violet scents before I can reach a final verdict on Violetta. However, for now, it definitely deserves a thumbs up and is now my current favourite from this house.

I actually like this one but, for an EDP, the longevity is absolutely pitiful. This exotic woody-floral could have been a clear personal favourite from this house but, very much like L’Artisan, they had to spoil it by watering down the composition.

Shame on you, Penhaligons!

Blenheim Bouquet is a sharp peppery citrus that makes Castille appear flat and lame. Personally, I prefer this one far more but, due to the pine accord, I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I really like it.

A very simple and pleasant composition, regardless.

A lovely tea-rose scent that works far better for me than Hamman Bouquet and smells more contemporary. IMHO, this is more unisex than feminine.

A faint floral offering that failed to hold my attention for even 10 seconds. As much as I have my reservations for the men’s version, it comes across as a more superior creation than it really is when compared to this lame offering.

Castile is extremely similar to Aqua di Parma. There’s not much more I can add to that, I’m afraid…

An okay but, largely, faint and non-descript cologne that comes across as one big sissy, when placed amongst other so-called EDTs masquerading around as colognes.

A very peppery scent that smells like most run-of-the-mill peppery scents. The opening is very ‘in your face’ but that’s as interesting as it gets, with a generic and, erm... peppery... drydown.

Masculine? Why, of course!

I completely agree – this is most certainly a blatant rip-off of Opium pour Homme, albeit lighter with a more prominent clove accord. If Opium pour Homme was too overwhelming for you, LP No.9 would be worth investigating.

It smells like an early Lynx de-odorant spray (circa mid-1980s) or something of that ilk. You know, the cheap body products (like de-odorant sprays and shower gels) that were always associated with the words blue, cool, horizon and ice…

Man, this one’s just weird! I definitely agree that it has a mushroom accord lurking in the composition. But coupled with the synthetic accords of violets, musk and sweaty human flesh, there’s no way I can appreciate it for what it is.

Yes, Dans Tes Bras does push the envelope somewhat (hence the neutral rating) but that’s no consolation for something that I find quite unwearable.

I mistakenly obtained a sample of Lipstick Rose, thinking this house only had one rose scent, when what I really wanted was Une Rose! Ah, well…

The best part about Lipstick Rose is the sharp and sweet fruity opening - an almost sparkingly raspberry accord. The topnotes, at first, smell very juicy and true to the real thing. However, within minutes, that sparkling sweetness grows rapidly dull as the violet note emerges. As the sweetness decreases a notch or two, it’s from this point onwards that Lipstick rose evolves into something very one-dimensional.

Although I have no idea what Lancome lipstick smells like, I can also detect a subtle lipstick accord becoming ever present. What started off as bright and natural now smells mute and slightly synthetic. The main problem I have is that it promised so much at the beginning only to disappoint, literally, minutes later.

I completely agree with Nukapai about this being more playful than sensual but I can only relate to this point during the opening, as the drydown is simply cold and clinical. By the drydown stage, when the violets have surrendered to the amber and slightly metallic rose accords, I’ve completely lost interest in wearing this.

Although it’s a tad feminine, I think most men are able to pull off wearing this due to its more unisex drydown. It has good longevity and stays closer to the skin as it evolves. If Lipstick Rose had a few more tricks up its sleeve, I might have given it a few more wearings. But, alas, this is not the case and there are far more interesting fragrances (both designer and niche) that can be worn in place of this.

One of the better releases from the Tom Ford Collection, this is a very sweet amber with some woods and vanilla thrown into the mix. It's quite lovely but it's not as interesting or attractive as Montale's Blue Amber.

Ubar was released to celebrate Oman’s Silver Jubilee year. The name, Ubar, is taken from a lost Omani city, long believed to be an important centre of the historical frankincense trade. The following review is for the EDP version:

Ubar is a beautiful rose, sandalwood and vanilla scent that stays close to the skin but lasts quite a while. Although discontinued years ago, many have claimed that Ubar is the best fragrance Amouage has created so far. Funnily enough, I can understand this claim since it’s the only Amouage release I've considered to be full bottle-worthy. Unfortunately, for me, it’s more feminine than unisex (even after the floral notes subside during the sandalwood drydown) and it also lacks sufficient sillage to satisfy my insatiable appetite for projection.

However, regardless of these reservations, Ubar is a high-quality and well composed scent that’s both sophisticated and sensual.

Notes: bergamot, lemon, lily of the valley, Damascena rose, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, sandalwood, synthetic civet and vanilla

Smells like melting plastic and cold onion soup... Ughh!

L'Ombre dans L'Eau is very different from most of Diptyques offerings, in that it isn’t strictly a linear scent - not that linearity is a bad thing but it was a very pleasant surprise:

Topnotes: Starts off with a very sharp (and masculine) citrus-green opening – it’s one of the best and most unique openings I’ve experienced in quite a while. The presence of the blackcurrant leaves create a dark, pungent and slightly sour accord. This stage lingers for at least 10 minutes.

Midnotes: This is the most challenging stage. At first, I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but (based on other reviews) I realised a tomato leaf / plant accord shinning through here [for those who loved this stage the best, and wished it lasted longer, the closest scent that comes to mind is Sisley’s Eau de Campagne]. The gradual emergence of the rose can be clearly detected half-way through.

Basenotes: Although the green notes remain, albeit more subdued, the rose note becomes more prominent. Unfortunately, some disappointment sets in as I’m heavily reminded of both Lutens’ Sa Majesté la Rose and Montale’s Ta’if Rose. However, based on the sudden relisation that the other two were released at least 15 years later, all respect for this composition remains unscathed.

L'Ombre dans L'Eau still smells timeless and is a wonderful creation. Its lasting power is also one of the best I've experienced by Diptyque. Although I'm not sure if it's full bottle-worthy for me, it's most certainly an amazing creation that was ahead of its time.

Eau Lente is an amazing scent and is also, IMHO, one of Diptyque’s best fragrances.

It’s such as warm, mellow and cozy scent, consisting of notes I usually have a hard time appreciating. For example, I love the smell of opopanax but had yet to come across a scent that incorporated this note according to my tastes. With Eau Lente, the opopanax is beautifully utilised (without smelling musty or slightly off) and alluringly emits itself like a rich amber or vanilla. Combinated with cloves (another note I’m not a big fan of), nutmeg and cinnamon, it can sometimes be slightly reminiscent of potpourri. However, the creamy sweetness of the opopanax provides a sensual earthiness, saving the whole composition from any unwanted scrutiny. Although it’s quite linear, the lasting power is pretty good.

Overall, this is a fantastic spicy scent that’s well-balanced with plenty of depth. This isn’t something I could see myself wearing out in public but, during the autumn and winter months, I would definitely gain enormous pleasure from wearing this around the house.

Ginger Musk is far too sweet, almost devoid of any ginger and smells more fruity than spicy. Frankly, this should have been called Berry Musk instead - I'm certain it would be a more popular offering as a result.

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Roses Musk is a high pitched scent with undertones of amber and raspberry in the background (although I have to admit that I can also detect a slight urinal note but I don't find it terribly off-putting). It's a pleasant creation and the sillage and longevity is up to the usual Montale standards. However, the drydown is too reminiscent of Aoud Roses Petals (albeit lighter).

For those who generally find oud off-putting, this might be worth investigating.

******

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French Lover is a woody-incense fragrance that I swear has been done before. However, I do agree it's a high-quality creation that's worth considering.

Carnal Flower is one hell of an intense and rich tuberose scent that really pushes the envelope, in terms of it currently possessing the highest concentration on the market. I really admire the fact that Dominique Ropion has done the same thing for tuberose as he has done for vetiver (with Vétiver Extraordinaire) but, alas, it's too perfumery / feminine for me to pull off.

Hopefully, I'll change my mind about this in the near future...

After all the comparisons to A*Men, Borneo 1834 didn’t really seem like an attractive option for me. Even though my opinion has since changed, I still feel underwhelmed and unsatisfied when it’s on my skin. Yes, the combination of dark chocolate and patchouli is both inviting and sensual but it lacks the complexity and depth that I would normally expect from Serge Lutens. A straightforward patchouli scent is definitely something that I was not expecting and its longevity is rather disappointing (roughly four hours).

In some ways, it reminds me of my disappointment with Montale’s Patchouli Leaves - too much amber and not enough patchouli (in other words, I found the name misleading). With Borneo 1834, the patchouli’s most definitely there but, during the drydown, there’s very little else to hold my interest. It also lacks the richness that I would usually expect from this house.

Some may consider Borneo 1834 to be perfect in every way but, if you have the money to spare and are looking for a more substantial (and rewarding) alternative, Comme des Garçons’ Luxe Patchouli would make a very good candidate. It may be exceedingly expensive but it’s definitely richer and fuller than this Lutens creation.

Luxe Patchouli is essentially Borneo 1834 intense, with the richness, complexity and tenacity that the Lutens creation severely lacked. The only downside is the horrendous price for a 45ml bottle – if the retail price dropped by about a third, I wouldn’t hesitate in obtaining a bottle for myself.

I’ve never been a Comme des Garçons fan but this scent has really impressed me. A thumbs up, regardless of my reservations about the price.

Quel Amour! is a very sweet fruity-floral that is one of the better offerings from this house. Although I have no reservations about its loudness, like Caltha, I probably would have appreciated it more, if there was another note incorporated into the composition to anchor the sweetness down.

It’s very nice but a bit too girly for my tastes.

EDP review:

After reading all the glowing reviews, I really expected great things from Knowing. Unfortunately, its performance on my skin was disappointing – soft, somewhat old-fashioned, and lacking in both sillage and longevity. The quality I was hoping for was, sadly, not there but it’s still a rather decent floral-chypre.

When I first tried this, a couple of years ago, I absolutely hated it. However, even though I still don’t find this Montale creation truly bottle-worthy, my perception of it has certainly changed…

The first notes I’m met with are black pepper, spices and elemi, which overwhelm the composition for the first few minutes (there is also a citrus or cardamom accord in the opening but this is very fleeting). Once the initial notes subside, the woods (especially the cedar), incense and leather are allowed to emerge and bloom. Shortly afterwards, the incense and leather dominate the woods but, at some point, the tables are turned leaving nothing more than a faint woody musk.

Some reviews have mentioned sandalwood but I can hardly detect any during its development. As for the cumin, I can definitely smell this but it’s more of a supporting note to my nose (and therefore not too imposing or heavy). In addition, I can also sense a lavender accord that conjures shades of grey with each sniff (and also the possible source of inspiration for its name) – a Gris Clair light is a nice description of what Greyland could have been if it was done correctly. Its longevity is not one of its strongest points and its sillage is about average.

After more time spent with Greyland, it comes across as a scent that’s very masculine, dark and serious. However, it’s also quite morbid and flat (to a certain degree). Everytime I smell it (especially during the drydown) it reminds me of all the things I don’t want to reminded about when living in a city – cloudy grey skies, pollution and urban decay, concrete landscapes, pylons and filthy underground / metro stations, emotional isolation and urban disenchantment… There’s a lack of warmth, colour and humanity in Greyland that would simply depress the heck out of me.

No, thanks!

******

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Attar is a beautiful sandalwood and rose combo that successfully manages to balance out the spicy earthiness of the rose and the creamy properties of the sandalwood. Like other reviewers, I’m not sure if there is oud in this either but if there is some it’s kept to a minimum.

I never thought I would love Attar but I most certainly do. This is sophisticated, romantic and delicious all at once.

Absolutely marvellous!

******

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Fougères Marines is a very pleasant scent that smells like a high-quality aquatic. The comparisons to Creed’s fresher offerings are very true, especially Green Irish Tweed, and I much prefer its use of lavender to Greyland’s morbid take.

However, since I’ve long moved on from aquatics, I really can’t see any point in owning this. Its longevity could have been better as well.

******

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Sandalsilver is not a great Montale release but nor is it a bad one - it’s simply a confused underachiever. There have been times when even I've not been sure about what this scent wants to develop into but, when it’s sure, I usually get this soft and creamy sandalwood shinning through. Other than that, this scent is a bit of a mess with all kinds of random citrus, floral, woody and green notes making cameo appearances for no significant reason. Longevity is okay but it pretty much stays close to the skin for most of the duration.

Personally, I consider Sandalsilver to be the sandalwood equivalent of Serge Lutens' muddled (floral) take on cedar (Cèdre) – they both had potential but the execution let them down. Alas, the creamy sandalwood note is quite delicious so, solely due to this fact, I will not be awarding Sandalsilver a thumbs down.

******

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Aromatic Lime is an interesting citrus-woody-aromatic-green that fails to contribute anything new or interesting. In fact, it smells like something that Sisley would have released, coming across as a hybrid of Eau de Campagne and Eau du Soir. Sillage is about average but its lasting powder is not as impressive as other Montale releases, nor does it smell as natural and sophisticated as the Sisley creations.

Personally, I’d rather pay a little extra and obtain the originals.

******

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Powder Flowers starts off a tad sharp but eventually softens into a very pleasant floral / talcum powder scent, with the rose being the main floral accord (supported by iris, amber and vanilla among other notes). There are a lot of scents like this currently available that just never connected with me but Powder Flowers is the first one that has. It’s very similar to Lorenzo Villoresi's Teint de Neige but this contained an unbecoming sharp (and somewhat synthetic) note that became more evident the more I wore it. With Powder Flowers, however, it manages not to fall into the same trap.

This is a soft, sweet and ethereal scent, with very good lasting power. I wouldn’t go as far to say that it’s beautiful but it’s definitely a very attractive creation. It’s not as sickeningly sweet as most of the non-aoud Montales (much to my relief) and doesn’t come across as synthetic or cheap-smelling. However, the main complaint I have with Powder Flowers is the fact that, once the more interesting notes subside, the talcum powder drydown is too clean and uneventful for my liking. Also, I find this to be more of a comfort scent than something I’d like to wear out in public, due to its almost subdued nature.

Based on this, it’s not a Montale that I would consider full-bottle worthy but I can imagine Powder Flowers having many admirers.

******

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Woods and Spices this is not – it's more a syrupy sweetness with anise, cinnamon and not much else. It’s not as synthetic as some have made out but, at the same time, it’s not that spectacular either (even though I still appreciate its simplicity). This is obviously one Montale creation that needs to be renamed…

******

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I agree with foetidus’ comparison to L’Artisan’s Mûre et Musc, although I wouldn’t say that Fruits of the Musk is awful. I, too, can only detect berries in this (hence Mere et Musc springing to mind) and not much else besides the musk. Overall, it’s more of a strawberry musk with a berry accord playing a supporting role. If this tickles your fancy, give it a try. However, if you expected a better representation of what the name implies, look elsewhere.

******

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Sandflowers is supposedly a marine scent that conjures up memories of idyllic days on the beach and the accompanying fresh salty air. It almost succeeds in achieving this, if it wasn’t for an oily accord lurking in the background. Maybe this is supposed to represent suntan lotion?

******

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Jasmin Full is a very pungent and intense jasmine fragrance that’s pretty much 'in your face' at the beginning. Although it dries down to something more tolerable, I can’t help but finding this a rather boring scent. I would have preferred more complexity in its composition but, then again, any jasmine-dominant fragrance is too feminine for me to wear.

******

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Essentially, this is woods and aldehydes - there’s hardly any vanilla detectable, to my nose. In addition, the overall composition smells both old-fashioned (circa ‘70s and ‘80s) and contemporary at the same time. I’d also say it’s much more masculine than unisex.

I really should give this one a thumbs down, for failing to deliver what its name implies, but I actually have a soft spot for it…

******

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Musk to musk is a clean and inoffensive musk – minimal, boring and utterly forgettable…

******

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This is probably the softest creation from this 'house' that I have yet to try. It takes a while for Clean Fresh Laundry to develop into something more noticeable. Also, there are faint floral accords that present themselves during the drydown but the whole affair is as synthetic as anything else released by Clean.

If you want to smell like fabric softener, be my guest...

There's a sharp synthetic soapiness to this that I find very unsettling. It's pretty strong stuff but it's also quite dire.

A real scrubber!

A complete rip-off of Gendarme. I mean, what's the point?

An (initially) overbearing and pungent herbal-lavender combo that smells like something my dad would have gladly worn during the '80s.

Synthetic, unpleasant and horribly outdated.

If I wanted to smell like a dirty pervert, who continuously jerks off, I'm sure that achieving this effect by the method so graciously provided by Mother Nature would be much more satisfying.

Now, where did I put that tub of Vaseline…

A synthetic and generic citrus fragrance with a faint woody base. I also found the elemi note (mainly responsible for the spicy-peppery accord) too overwhelming for the majority of its duration.

Pass.

Ooooh, I wasn't too keen on this one! There's an astringent accord lurking in the composition that simply ruins it for me. Maybe it's the verbena itself but it needs a touch more vanilla or amber to smooth out the rough edges.

It doesn't last long either.

I’ve often maintained that Aoud Flowers is a darker version of Black Aoud and, although many have disagreed, I still remain defiant about this viewpoint.

Black Aoud encompasses a romantic perspective of the gothic aesthetic, with colour associations including light and pastel hues (apart from its name and the term ‘gothic’, I fail to find any further associations of the colour black with Black Aoud). It’s best described as being stuck in an empty well with the glimmering light reassuring you of being discovered, and only the swaying of the towering trees to keep you company. There’s an element of light in Black Aoud that provides hope, with the ability to awaken you from the nightmares should they become unbearable.

On the other hand, Aoud Flowers represents the pure gothic nature – the facets of darkness and evil that most humans are unable (or unwillingly) to imagine. The rush of adrenalin, lust, fear and narcotics through the blood stream; the colour of congealed blood and dark murky browns are some associations that spring to mind, whenever I smell Aoud Flowers. Where Black Aoud is akin to being trapped in a well, Aoud Flowers is best described as being buried alive six-feet under, in a steel coffin. Yes, there’s definitely a strong metallic accord in this baby…

I love Aoud Flowers for being so distinct from most of the other Montale aouds. It’s sillage and longevity are simply amazing. It’s also the best Montale aoud in quite a while and has yet to be equalled or surpassed.

Excellent!

For those who are new to Montale, it would be very easy (and understandable) to confuse this creation with Aoud Flowers. Personally, although they are both floral ouds, they are completely different beasts.

Aoud Red Flowers is far more floral, subtle and feminine than Aoud Flowers. It also lacks a certain edge and, like most of the recent Montale aoud releases, doesn’t contain as much oud as earlier aoud releases by this house.

Very feminine and slightly boring.

1) Initial impressions:

At first, my nose was met with a very sharp combo of oud and, what I can best describe as, a rich red plum note. Initially, I didn’t know what to make of it – it was so astringent that my nose desperately tried to make sense of it all. Once the opening blast calmed down, I could detect some faint floral notes. It was only when the vanilla later emerged that the composition came into its own.

It quickly developed into a gourmand scent, with vanilla, oud and the remnants of the plum note (now somewhat boozy) quite prominent. To my nose, there was a sexy gourmand vibe occurring - this stage persisted for almost an hour before the vanilla subsided and the oud took centre stage again. The other notes had now settled down at this point and all I was left with was this slightly fruity (not floral) oud drydown. I gently breathed onto my arm, to generate some heat, and noticed that the vanilla and boozy plum notes suddenly reappeared (but not as prominently as before).

Although it's still early days, Red Aoud impressed in spades. By incorporating notes that would normally be confined to their regular line, Montale has breathed new life into the aoud line.


2) Final conclusion:

After a few weeks wearing this, my opinion of Red Aoud has drastically changed for the worse. It seems my love affair with this is now well and truly over, for the following reasons:

a) The more I wear it, the more it comes across as muddy and unnecessarily cluttered - there's just too many incompatible notes fighting for attention and it begins to grate after a while. It's a composition that's in dire need of better construction and more opportunities for the notes to breathe.

b) It now reminds me of the air freshener used in the toilets of a couple of restaurants I've been to. I made this unfortunate association within days of first testing it and have never been able to shake off this association.

c) Due to its pungent nature, I really can't see myself reaching for it very often.

Based on all the above points, it's most certainly not for me. However, I'll give it a neutral rating for being so unique.

If you like Attar, Aoud Shiny should appeal but I’m not really sure if there was any point in releasing this one, as they're too similar.

Daft name, too.

This is a sweeter version of Golden Aoud (and just as subtle). Although it’s not as sweet as White Aoud, with respect to the vanilla / tonka bean, its composition slots in nicely between these two.

Unfortunately, it’s too feminine for me…

Golden Aoud seems to be lighter than most Montale aouds and not as harsh. It’s very similar to the more genteel offerings from this line (Attar, Royal Aoud, White Aoud, etc.) – there’s no ‘in your face’ oud note present and that was something I sorely missed.

What I largely detected were dry woods (primarily cedar and sandalwood) with the oud being just about there. Unfortunately, I found this one to be too underwhelming for my tastes. Also, there’s a noticeable smoky or metallic accord during the drydown, which could be either irritating or addictive for some.

For those who love the more discreet Montales, this one should appeal to you.

I’m sorry but I really didn't like this one – it’s too synthetic, too dense, too sweet, too floral… it’s just too much. Although it did smell better during the drydown, I was too traumatised to even care...

Wild strawberries and sweet almonds? Well, I’m sorry but this smells horribly synthetic and medicinal. If anything, it reminds me of an empty bottle of strawberry-flavoured cough syrup.

This should never have been released, let alone created. Mukhallat is one of the worst Montale releases ever.

When I first read about Sunset Flowers, the listed notes came across as a refreshing change from the usual overdose of florals and / or sugary sweetness that most Montale non-aouds often fall prey to. Upon application, I could detect all of the listed notes (i.e. lemon tree blossom, green apples, blue chamomile, violets) but something just didn’t smell right about it.

The problem, I think, is the green apple accord – it smells quite synthetic and unnecessarily sharp. With the lemon tree blossom adding an additional sour note (thus supporting the green apple’s full-on offensive) the overall effect was overwhelming. However, by the time it reached the drydown, the florals (that had previously been in the background) emerged more to the fore, gradually becoming stronger as the initial dominant accord finally (and thankfully) died down.

It’s a nice composition that’s more feminine than unisex but, regardless of this, the synthetic opening was a bit of a real turn-off for me. Still, credit should be given for Montale offering something less run-of-the-mill.

Sliver Aoud mainly comprises of lemons, herbs and a dash of oud. It’s certainly uplifting and refreshing, especially for a Montale aoud. However, it greatly reminds me of the ‘classic’ citrus scents such as Christian Dior’s Eau Sauvage (too much, in fact). Also, its longevity and sillage are average with not much oud present.

It’s okay but definitely not for me.

From the very first sniff, I really loved this one.

Why? Because it smells like a cross between Ormonde Jayne’s Isfarkand pour Homme (in terms of the sharp citrus, pepper and vetiver combo) and Hermes' Vetiver Tonka (in terms of the richness and depth of the Haitian vetiver used). Its sillage and longevity are initially deceptive – the scent seems quite soft at first but is just as potent as, say, Black Aoud. However, I could easily smell traces of Red Vetyver on my coat days later.

Where Vetiver Tonka was too soft on my skin (before turning) and Isfarkand pour Homme’s (rather weak) drydown had too much emphasis on cedar, Red Vetyver combines their strengths while successfully satisfying to the core. It really is an impressive creation that I hope never to grow tired of. In addition, it’s slightly cheaper than the other two to acquire.

Red Vetyver is now among my top three favourite non-aoud releases by Montale (with Blue Amber and Sweet Oriental Dream being the other two). Also, due to the fullness of the Haitian vetiver, this can easily be worn all year round.

Absolutely stunning!

I agree with HDS1963 - I don't understand all the recent negative reviews. Pasha is my current favourite Cartier scent - it's fresh, classy and quite substantial. I'm not really a big fan of green scents but this one is very well composed, while possessing an aura of mystique and sensuality.

Pasha is more for suitable for mature men and I'm not sure if I'd be able to pull it off at my current tender age but, one day soon, I may decide to take the plunge.

Roadster is, indeed, not terribly original but it does smell great. It's just a pity that the drydown isn't as well-composed as the deliciously fresh topnotes - it just comes across as somewhat muddled.

As for the bottle, although I hate the design (I can't drive and have never been interested in cars), I do love the heavy glass used for the bottle. Also, the swivel cap is a wonderful touch.

Ermm... Haven't we been here before?

Anglomania is probably the best Vivienne Westwood release so far. But there are also far better (and more natural smelling) rose scents out there.

Vivienne Westwood's perfume releases have all been nothing less than brutal disappointments. Let It Rock is Vivienne stooping to new lows. Not only is the bottle ugly, the fragrance itself is utterly uninspired and lacks any redeeming qualities.

Boudoir is a tuberose and amber assault on the senses. After loosing some teeth, my dentist advised me to refrain from wearing this again...

It doesn't smell awful just horribly dated. I mean, I'm sure I'm not the only one who has mental images of Burt Reynolds immediately after application...

I agree with JaimeB - Eau de Lierre is a significant improvement on Virgilio. It’s a very pleasant peppery-green affair that doesn’t possess so many sharp edges (nor smells somewhat dated). Although it does contain a mild floral accord, it does come across as more masculine than unisex. Unfortunately, the drydown (which I do enjoy) reminds me of one of the many fresh (and green) Creeds currently available. Yes, it’s certainly cheaper than a Creed but I have no desire to be reminded of Creed whilst wearing something else by a different house.

L'Eau de Neroli is, currently, the most popular out of the L'Eau series but this is possibly because it is also the most original out of the three (L'Eau de Hesperides is based on Oyédo, while L'Eau de L'Eau is a cologne version of L'Eau). The opening is a fresh burst of citrus (though not too sharp) with the orange blossom gradually emerging and eventually taking hold. It's a nice uplifting fragrance but nothing particularly special.

Personally, I would have preferred Diptyque releasing a new EDT instead of these colognes.

L'Eau de L'Eau is essentially a cologne (or watered down) version of L'Eau. If you found L'Eau a bit heavy with the cloves, give this one a try.

Nope, too much clove for me as well. I much prefer Eau Lente, where the clove is more restrained and works better with the rest of the composition.

Olène is a pretty white floral scent but it’s too feminine for me too pull off, especially during the drydown.

Oh, my God! This stuff is utterly vile! Even Virgilio is more tolerable to wear than this. And, yes, it does smell of vinegar...

The pink bottle says it all - a girlie fruity-floral with a hint of woods. Not only is the bottle patronising but the scent itself is generic beyond belief. It also smells like something that Costume National would have released.

Narciso Rodriguez for Him smells like an updated version of Grey Flannel, to me. It's okay but definitely not full bottle-worthy.

Hmmm... It smells very similar to the discontinued Burnt Sugar by Comme des Garçons.

Gold is a nice peppery-floral with a lovely twist of cucumber in the drydown. Unfortunately, it's nothing original.

Smells like a rip-off of Unforgivable (which was, in turn, a rip-off of Creed).

Pathetic.

1 Million smells very generic and synthetic, and the plastic bottle is as tacky as hell. But I’m giving this a neutral, instead of a thumbs down, because the juice actually has some strength and is not watered down like all the other wishy-washy designer scents currently being released. Hopefully, this is an indication that there is some light at the end of the tunnel.

Even though I don’t like it, you have to give credit where credit’s due...

Smells very much like Dior Cherie. Enough said.

Probably the best from the Pleasures line, Pleasures Delight is an uplifting and fresh fruity-floral. It’s sweet, long lasting and has sufficient depth. Unfortunately, it does come across as more girlie rather than sophisticated. If it smelt a tad less synthetic and came across as more unique / sophisticated than it actually does, I definitely would have given it a thumbs up.

Pleasures is a pleasant floral fragrance but it comes across as too clean, generic and somewhat synthetic. It's also missing that special 'something'.

Yes, it does smell like rotting flowers but it's also far too pungent at the beginning. The drydown smells like cheap air freshener.

It smells very feminine and VERY old-fashioned. I didn't get much pleasure from wearing this at all...

Recent reviewers taliaseki, Nukapai and JennieJenJamz have all said exactly what I wanted to say about Youth Dew. It's a hideously old and musty relic that should have long been discontinued and confined to Osmotheque and the Musée International de la Parfumerie.

Cinnabar is too pungent and musty, with the carnation overwhelming the cinnamon. There’s a lack of clarity in the composition and the end result is simply a mess of notes. It also smells very old-fashioned – more than I would personally like or could even tolerate.

Put simply, Cinnabar is not the timeless classic that it likes to think it is.

A heavy, rich and sophisticated green floral that would probably smell very nice on the right woman. I found it a bit too pungent and vegetal for its own good, and an underlying wax accord (which became more prominent during the drydown) made me realise what may have inspired Mona di Orio’s house note (which is my main gripe with this relatively new niche house).

Private Collection is okay but it's definitely not for me.

A spicy-floral that, at first, smells lovely but its linearity quickly encourages boredom to set in.

Vanille Gourmande is a rich, but not foody, vanilla with a degree of sophistication. Its notes include vanilla orchid, vanilla liqueur, vanilla musk, heliotrope, daylily, bourbon vanilla, sandalwood and amber. Personally, it smells very similar to Serge Lutens’ Un Bois Vanille but with the woods being replaced by florals. As a result, the overall composition is softer rather than feminine. It’s not ground breaking nor unique but it’s definitely one of the better creations from this house.

It smells like a well-composed fragrance but this soft floral lacks any real distinction. It’s boring, generic and quite unremarkable

Soon after applying, I really loved Crème Brûlée – it certainly smelt like the real thing. But after a few minutes, it turned rancid on my skin. I can’t explain it but it just reeked in a bad way. At some point, the composition managed to pull itself together but the final straw came when a buttery egg accord unexpectedly emerged. Crème Brûlée now smelt raw (in a foody way) rather than delicious. Also, the drydown eventually smelt of butter, with a hint of caramelized sugar lurking in the background.

Oh, did I happen to mention that I wasn’t impressed?

Yuk! This is really bloody awful!

I’ve never been a fan of coconut scents but I’m always willing to give new and unacquainted releases a try. Unfortunately, this has to be one of the worse coconut scents I’ve ever smelt. The artificial, plasticky and sharp metallic coconut accord is vile, resulting in the whole composition being nothing more than a crude chemical assault on the nose. It’s a complete and utter mess and smells more like burning rubber, which was smeared with coconut oil or butter before being set alight.

Avoid at all costs!

A rather sweet cherry brandy scent that eventually descends into bland generic territory.

This is how Le Maroc pour Elle should have smelt (even though it came out a few years later)! I'm still not sure if Aqaba is for me but it's a lovely fruity rose-incense fragrance. It does walk a thin line between smelling modern and old-fashioned but that doesn't stop me from admiring it for what it is.

Nice!

Ooooh, I wasn't too keen on this one! There's an astringent accord lurking in the composition that simply ruins it for me. Maybe it's the vetiver itself but it needs a touch of vanilla or amber to smooth out the rough edges.

A pleasant patchouli scent that remains linear throughout, without smelling dated. Like foetidus, I also detected a faint citrus-floral accord. However, there are far better patchouli scents out there.

A very sweet citrus-woody affair that simply fails to appeal. The presence of the juniper is both brief and slightly crude, with a dull powdery drydown.

Promoted as a fresh-floral, Ma Dame is anything but this. Yes, it’s largely a floral affair but it’s certainly not fresh (although I will admit that it’s also not as heavy as Gaultier’s previous high-profile releases).

The opening is a fizzy (and slightly muted) acidic orange accord but this disappears within a matter of seconds - personally, the fleeting opening was the only evidence of freshness here. The emergence of the sweet floral notes (listed as rose and grenadine but I could hardly detect any rose) come across as unashamedly synthetic, while the cedar gradually emerges and blends with the florals during its development. Even though the cedar becomes more prominent during the drydown, by this point, I couldn’t escape the feeling that it had transformed into an even bigger mess than at the beginning.

Ma Dame is far less ‘innovative’ and provocative than previous releases, and actually reminds me of a toned down Gaultier2. It also lacks the androgyny of its predecessors, smelling more girlie and plasticky than originally expected. Ma Dame is nothing earth shattering and I’m sure there are dozens of similar floral scents (regardless of how synthetic they are) that are capable of providing a more satisfactory result.

Oud Queen Roses slots somewhere inbetween Black Aoud and Aoud Roses Petals. It’s almost as dark and rich as Black Aoud but, like Aoud Roses Petals, its main emphasis is on the roses. I actually prefer this more than Aoud Roses Petals, as it’s more substantial and satisfying. Also, although the oud is toned down, it’s much more detectable throughout its development than Aoud Roses Petals.

However, once again, is it really worth owning? Well, if you already own Aoud Roses Petals, probably not. And if you own Black Aoud? Hmmm… maybe but just about…

Regardless of its subtle differences, I actually do like it.

Hoos’ review is pretty spot on and I do agree that the celery (salt) note is the main thing about the composition that spoilt my enjoyment of it, as the drydown was quite unbecoming on my skin. On first impressions, however, L'Eau de Hesperides smelt like a cologne version of Oyédo, with the celery (salt) note replacing the thyme and florals notes instead of a woody accord. Yes, it’s a very pleasant fresh fragrance but, like Hoos, I also wished that the celery (salt) note was toned down significantly.

For those who felt that Oyédo was a bit too much, this may be a very good substitute (well, that’s if you don’t mind the celery (salt) note...).

Contrary to expectations, Serge Noire is definitely no strict variation on either Gris Clair or Encens et Lavande…

It's a very dry, woody and ashy composition with almost no sweetness whatsoever - the scent certainly does conjure up shades of black and greyish brown. If I had to choose another Lutens creation that could be paired with Serge Noire, it would probably be Chene – both of them are quite unorthodox, heavy and uncompromising woody scents.

However, although it's probably one of his most challenging releases for quite some time, there is still some déjà vu about Serge Noire. At first it wasn’t obvious but now it most certainly is – Serge Noire is a darker, richer and moodier version of Gucci pour Homme. Also, the pencil shavings association is still there but far more subtle, with the incense brought more to the fore.

Why it’s taken ten years to create this is still beyond me, but I’ll award it a thumbs up just because it’s their best release within the last two or three years.

Should I be wearing this or should I be glue-sniffing instead? Hmmm...

I'm afraid this one wasn't to my liking and the experience wasn't a very pleasant one. All I got was this overpowering cornstarch accord. No thanks!

For the last couple of years, I found it very difficult to understand Daim Blond. Looking back now, I was probably expecting something typically Luten-esque, while hoping for a leather fragrance that worked exceedingly well with my skin chemistry. Unfortunately, it wasn’t as heavy as many of the previous Serge Lutens creations, and nor was it the leather scent that I was looking for (but since then, I’ve now concluded that prominent leather scents rarely work on my skin). Also, the reviews on various websites didn’t help matters either – they largely confirmed what I, at the time, considered to be a disappointing release.

Daim Blond remained one of the ‘also-rans’ from this house for quite a while but I, occasionally, found myself compelled to test it from time to time. Indeed the apricot kernel, iris and leather notes were no less inviting but still not quite full bottle-worthy. And then something happened without any warning – its enigma suddenly dissipated and, after a long struggle trying to understanding it, its true nature finally revealed itself to me…

The problem is that Daim Blond is widely misunderstood and, as a result, has received too many lukewarm reviews over the years. Perceiving this creation as a dominant leather scent will only court disappointment. It isn’t really a take on leather but actually a take on suede and this is an important fact that should be acknowledged. In addition, based on the notes, I will go out on a limb here and proclaim that it is not a dominant suede scent either. Although its softness is partly due to the suede note, many tend to overlook the fact that musk is one of its main notes. Based on how it performs out of the bottle, I would say that it is, essentially, a fruity-musk scent with a hint of suede. I believe that if the wearer approaches Daim Blond in this way, they will fully appreciate it for what it is.

I still consider it too soft to wear in public and find its sillage to be too subtle for such occasions (but, then again, I’ve never been terribly enthusiastic about musk scents). However, after further musings, I’ve come to the conclusion that it would be an excellent fragrance to wear either during intimate moments or before going to bed. Many have sung the praises of Musc Ravageur and consider it to be very much appropriate for the aforementioned situations - I consider Daim Blond to be a superior alternative (and with far better longevity). While Musc Ravageur half-convincingly hints at naughty quickies in a nearby cul-de-sac, Daim Blond conjures up vivid images of tender (and yet profound) love-making between freshly laid silk sheets. For me, it’s sexy but in a completely different way. But, then again, this all comes down to personal taste.

So, with this in mind, I urge you to approach Daim Blond once again – both from a completely different perspective and without the prejudice formed by previous reviews.

Initially, Pulp was my favourite scent from this house but now it’s probably my least.

The opening was utterly superb – a succulent, rich and juicy fruit opening that smelt very natural and fresh. The sweetness was just right, and the bergamot and blackcurrant notes were full-bodied, dense and delicious. Although it smelt somewhat feminine, I still felt it could be worn (and enjoyed) by men who are very comfortable with their sexuality.

With such a promising opening, one would have expected the drydown to be amazing. But it wasn’t…

Now, maybe the opening was cleverly deceptive (deliberate?) but the drydown smelt extremely synthetic and was very unpleasant to wear – the complete opposite of the opening. At times, I was hoping that its development would get back on track but it never did – it just stagnated, leaving nothing but a cheap smelling pot-porri scent lingering on my skin. Maybe it just didn’t agree with my skin chemistry or possibly it was the peach flower note that ruined it - I’m still not too sure even now.

Whichever aspect is to blame (if any), I have to admit that this is the first time I’ve been so ‘seduced’ by a fragrance only to be so utterly repelled by it within a matter of hours. Whilst wearing Pulp at work, one of my female work colleagues bluntly stated that the drydown smelt like “air freshener AFTER someone’s been to the toilet”. Now, even I have to admit that her description was absolutely spot-on…

Byredo has, unfortunately, failed to live up to my expectations and Pulp is most certainly not an exception to their other releases. In addition to its main flaw, it also lacks sufficient staying power (4-6 hours) – for both for its retail price and EDP concentration, I would have expected more. This is one house I will definitely not be investigating again in future.

Berberiades Extreme review:

This is a very poor attempt at emulating something akin to Tauer’s L'Air du Desert Marocain (based on the description of this creation).

I can hardly detect most of the notes in the composition (such as patchouli, incense and amber) but I do get a hint of vanilla, cinnamon and ginger in the background. Unfortunately, all I can smell is a muddied woody scent with the cedar dominating. It also lacks any complexity and has average longevity (but decent sillage). In the end, all I’m left with is an inferior version of Feminitè du Bois.

As a side note, I’m also very confused about its concentration – Luckyscent advertises it as an EDP but my official sample states that it’s an EDT. Hmmm, very strange…

As this is the only Stephanie de Saint-Aignan creation that truly interested me, I’ll have to pass on this house.

Although this is a combination of fresh notes with cocoa bean, tonka and amber, it smelt like a high quality acquatic to me. This would appeal to those who love the fresh modern releases by Creed but, for me, it was nothing spectacular. My female companion considered this to be one of the best that I tested from this house. But then again, in her defence, her perfume knowledge is painfully limited to designer fragrances.

A pleasant woody-spicy fragrance, which suffers from smelling quite soapy once the notes have settled down. I also found it far too soft and ‘polite’ for my liking.

WARNING! Don’t be fooled by the name – this is not an amber-dominant fragrance!

Note Ambre is more of a feminine floral creation with amber only playing a small part in the composition. Personally, I found this one to be underwhelming. Also, the fact that I was unfairly misled by the name didn’t help matters at all.

The female version of Aoud (which is marketed for men) is a floral oud affair that smells very promising in the opening but develops into something unspectacular during the drydown.

Its longevity is also severely lacking.