Fragrance Reviews by Trebor

EDP review:

Oh, how I've come a long way from owning a bottle of this...

For someone who's relatively new to fragrances, Pi may greatly appeal. However, the truth is that it's not really a vanilla scent in the slightest – it’s more a synthetic mess, containing a very large quantity of benzoin. It smells horribly waxy, with coconut and caramel accords struggling to cover-up the fact that the whole composition smells absolutely dreadful. Ultimately, Pi is a fake vanilla scent for the uninitiated, with reasonable sillage and longevity.

‘But, if Pi is really awful, what else is there available that I can investigate?’ I hear you ask. Well, the problem is, if you really want a decent vanilla fragrance you’ll have to pay a bit more extra for it. How much extra is entirely up to you. The following are vanilla dominant fragrances I feel everyone should test at least once – there are many other great alternatives available but these are the ones that immediately spring to mind:

Guerlain – Heritage EDP (vintage formulation)
Guerlain – Spiritueuse Double Vanille
Montale – Vanille Absolu
Montale – Boise Vanille
Profumum Roma – Vanitas
Serge Lutens – Un Bois Vanille

I can guarantee you that, once you’ve smelt these, your perception of Pi will never be the same again – the time to remove your blindfold has finally come.

Now, go forth and sniff…

After trying the excellent Santal de Mysore, I was expecting great things from this one. However, the sandalwood note isn’t at all prominent in Santal Blanc. Instead, this is more of a floral scent with sandalwood deep in the background. The overall composition is okay but there is a strange chemical note in there that annoys me.

It's definitely one of the least interesting releases by Serge Lutens and its longevity is above average.

[Original submission date: 30 October 2006]

Very Irrésistible for Men is a coffee, citrus and mint concoction that smells absolutely terrible.

What the hell was Givenchy thinking?!

[Original submission date: 30 October 2006]

A pleasant vanilla and almond scent that comes across as more feminine than unisex. Its longevity is also quite poor.

[Original submission date: 14 October 2006]

One of the few Creeds that really stands out, as well as being the blueprint for Kouros...

Although I wouldn't consider it bottle worthy, Orange Spice is a classy, dense and spicy citrus that's great for the warmer months. Its longevity is pretty good and is much better than I originally expected.

[Original submission date: 14 October 2006]

Bigarade Concentrée is sweet but lacks the clarity, zest and freshness one would expect from this type of fragrance. Also, its longevity is abysmal.

There are much better niche alternatives available on the market.

[Original submission date: 14 October 2006]

The petroleum oil note in Fahrenheit makes it intolerable for me to wear. It’s a shame because it's, apparently, a compliment getter.

[Original submission date: 30 October 2006]

Every Joe Bloggs was wearing Jazz in the late ‘80s but I always thought it smelt like discarded fish and chip wrapping paper (with oil, salt and vinegar notes fighting amongst each other to get noticed). Although it smelt strangely intriguing, during my childhood years, it would probably irritate the hell out of me now.

[Original submission date: 30 October 2006]

Tendre Poison is a decent fresh green scent but its longevity is disappointingly poor – something you wouldn’t expect from the Poison line.

I seriously think an Elixir version is in order...

[Original submission date: 30 October 2006]

I’m not really a big fan of musk scents and By Man is no exception. Its longevity is okay but it tends to stay quite close to the skin. Also, the bottle is absolutely tacky – even if I loved this scent, there’s no way I would add a bottle like that to my fragrance collection.

[Original submission date: 30 October 2006]

Roma Uomo is nothing but a watered down, synthetic, citrus-oriental (even the bottle looks excruciatingly cheap). Also, its longevity is abysmal.

[Original submission date: 30 October 2006]

212 Men is a reasonable fresh scent but unbelievably synthetic and generic. I like my fragrances to be more distinctive and of a higher quality, thank you very much.

[Original submission date: 31 October 2006]

If you love iris scents, this is definitely worth a try. Alas, iris dominant scents are not really for me and this one failed to make me do a complete u-turn.

Orris is a decent fragrance but its sillage and longevity could have been a lot better.

[Original submission date: 21 December 2006]

I'm sorry but wearing Spezie makes me feel like I've been generously seasoned by a group of hungry cannibals.

As much as I like to smell irresistible, this is taking things a little too far...

[Original submission date: 23 December 2006]

Oh dear! Vetiver is just too raw and harsh for me.

If you're still unsure as to whether or not you like vetiver fragrances, please DO NOT consider testing this one first – it may put you off vetiver for life...

[Original submission date: 23 December 2006]

Aziyade starts out very reminiscent to the smell of Coca-Cola, with a hint of boozy fruit, and is anchored by sandalwood-musk base notes. It’s not as opulently rich as Serge Lutens’ Arabie (and it’s already been dubbed, by some, as ‘Arabie-lite’) nor, based on the comparison, ground-breaking. At the beginning, it did smell quite similar to this Lutens creation but, eventually, it ended up smelling very similar to Andy Tauer’s Incense Rose (too similar, in fact).

Personally, I’d much rather stick with my bottle of Arabie. Now, that’s the real thing…

Le Mâle was the first designer fragrance that I sensed a profound olfactory connection with and had been wearing it, almost exclusively, for approximately nine years. It was only when I acquired my third 125ml bottle that I started thinking about obtaining a second scent, merely as a complimentary alternative.

Then I discovered Basenotes…

For the past year, I had not really worn Le Mâle (and I hadn't even touched that newly purchased bottle) – I just felt the need to take a break from it, while exploring other fragrances. Several bottle purchases later, however, it reached a point where, every time I mused over which fragrance to wear for the day, my bottle of Le Mâle was constantly ignored. After several weeks of this happening, this newly-formed habit compelled me to wonder why I was always overlooking it. However, for some unknown reason, I could never reach a firm conclusion – I simply assumed that I was too busy enjoying and exploring new (and unfamiliar) fragrances.

Then, a few days ago, I decided to finally spray some Le Mâle on my arm (more for the sake of nostalgia than anything else). It then became very clear why I never reached for it...

Maybe it’s an age thing, maybe my tastes have drastically changed, or maybe my nose has become more sophisticated (thus prompting the inevitable prospect of fragrance snobbery). Whatever the reason, it suddenly dawned on me how uncomfortable and self-conscious I would feel if I was to ever wear it out in public again.

Like everyone else, I want to feel proud of whatever I’m wearing and, sadly, Le Mâle has now fallen heavily from grace – I had long moved on, without even knowing it. In addition, the notes smell more synthetic now than when I last remembered. I still admire it for its longevity and sillage but now find it to be too brash, unsophisticated, clichéd and somewhat embarrassing to even consider applying to my skin.

Although that third bottle is now with a new owner, catching whiffs of Le Mâle (from time to time) will always conjure up many happy memories. Well, as long as I’m not the one wearing it…

R.I.P. Le Mâle.

[Original submission date: 26 February 2007]

OMG! For the first few minutes, this stuff reeks to high heaven in an extremely bad way! However, it eventually develops into an impressive high-quality leather scent.

This is one of the few Montale aouds that I really admire but its moderate sillage and longevity (roughly 4 hours) has left me doubting if this stuff is bottle-worthy. Still, it’s definitely one of the best leather scents I’ve ever had the pleasure of wearing (well, after the top notes subside, that is).

However, I urge you to repeat this mantra:

Try before you buy,
try before you buy,
try before you buy…

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

http://www.basenotes.net/specials/montale.html

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I’ve now tried both the EDT and perfume extrait concentrations, and I still can’t make my mind up about Habanita.

Granted, this is a very rich and opulent oriental (consisting of vanilla, amber, leather, tobacco, light florals, vetiver and oakmoss), with the EDT being as potent as any respectable EDP. Unfortunately, its leans too much towards smelling old-fashioned and tends to spoil my enjoyment of it. I really do think you have to be in the right frame of mind to appreciate its qualities but (for such situations) it’s usually difficult to determine this until it’s too late.

Unlike other reviewers, I don’t have an issue with its powdery nature or with the EDT’s harsh opening nature (which I think is due to the lavender top notes). However, while there are times when I can appreciate it for what it is, there are also moments when I simply can’t – it’s just one of those Jekyll and Hyde fragrances that demands an acquired taste.

Habanita is most certainly a sophisticated and sensual scent but it often fails to completely (and consistently) captivate me to an acceptable degree – so much that I’ve long lost count of the number of times I’ve considered purchasing a bottle, only to later change my mind. There are very few fragrances that have the ability to both allure and dissuade me, in equal measure, and I’m afraid this is one of them.

It’s definitely a classic creation but its age is far too evident and, as much as I have wrestled with unconditionally admiring it, I have finally conceded defeat. However, regardless of my disappointment, I think anyone with an interest in perfumery should give Habanita a try at least once.

I have to agree that there are similarities between this and Balle de Match. Personally, I feel that Balle de Match is the better of the two, with more depth and complexity. Besides this observation, Citrus Paradisi is still quite a nice offering. However, there is something in the composition that isn’t quite right, although it’s probably the civet in the base notes.

Not bad at all!

Well, well, well! What do we have here?

Personally, Ambre 114 is everything Ambre Sultan should have been. They are very much alike but there’s a richer amber presence that is both mouth-wateringly delicious and warm. Also, the herbal properties of Ambre Sultan are toned down in Ambre 114, making it much easier to enjoy when first encountered.

The top notes of thyme and nutmeg in no way challenge the nose – in fact, I found the presence of the thyme to be more harmonious with the rest of the composition than in Ambre Sultan. As others have mentioned, this is extremely well-blended and the sweetness of the amber recedes after a while. After this stage, it reveals more of its resinous nature but in a very polite way. Also, the base notes of ambergris, musk and a combination of vanilla, tonka bean and benzoin create a very soft, and yet satisfying, powdery drydown.

With very good longevity and moderate sillage, Ambre 114 is not the most tenacious or nuclear of amber fragrances available. However, it’s such a beautifully crafted scent that this more than compensates for its shortcomings. Although it’s not particularly challenging to the nose, it’s certainly not a boring scent either. Where this will appeal to those who don’t care for amber scents, it also offers a rich prospect of enjoyment for certified amber lovers.

I really wasn’t expecting to be bowled over by yet another amber fragrance but there’s no denying Ambre 114’s appeal – this is now one of my top five favourite ambers. Unfortunately, as I’ve already found my perfect amber scent, there’s very little point in owning a bottle of this. However, this hasn’t stopped me from trying to talk myself into buying a bottle just for the heck of…

The opening of Jean Marie Farina is an invitingly fresh citrus and floral eau de cologne. Unfortunately, the drydown is very musty and old-fashioned, and it ends up being quite unpleasant to wear. Maybe it's my skin chemistry, or possibly the clove and carnation in the mid notes, but this alone prevents it from getting a thumbs-up.

Escentric 02 is, simply, Molecule 02 (or ambroxan) with vetiver, muscone, orris and elderflower thrown into the mix.

It'd be much cheaper to purchase some ambroxan, from a perfume supplier, and then layer it with a vetiver fragrance of your choice.

All the offerings from this house are a joke...

Escentric 01 is, simply, Molecule 01 (or Iso E Super) with pink pepper, lime and incense thrown into the mix. The overall effect is a citrus and pepper opening (that smells like gin and tonic) with a cedar-incense drydown.

It'd be much cheaper to purchase some Iso E Super, from a perfume supplier, and then layer it with a woody fragrance of your choice.

The whole concept's a complete rip-off...

Surely purchasing 100ml of ambroxan, from a perfume supplier, would be a lot cheaper than obtaining a bottle of Molecule 02?

The price mark-up is scandalous...

Surely purchasing half-a-litre of ISO E Super, from a perfume supplier, would be a lot cheaper than obtaining a bottle of Molecule 01?

The price mark-up is simply ridiculous...

EDP review:

I've tried both the original and newer formulation of Samsara and, while I admire them, I couldn't really bring myself to owning a bottle.

The newer formulation is more synthetic to my nose, while the original formulation starts off with an unimpressive alcohol top note – it took much longer for the original formulation to really blossom, while the newer formulation immediately raced out of the gate. But it's the sandalwood drydown that's quite special. Personally, I found the sandalwood more prominent in the original formulation. Also, where the original formulation is quieter and performs closer to the skin, the newer formulation (initially) comes across as loud and quite brash.

Samsara does have an element of charm but there's also something hollow about it that fails to fully capture my imagination. It could be considered unisex but only just.

1) Initial impressions:

At first, my nose was met with a very sharp combo of oud and, what I can best describe as, a rich red plum note. Initially, I didn’t know what to make of it – it was so astringent that my nose desperately tried to make sense of it all. Once the opening blast calmed down, I could detect some faint floral notes. It was only when the vanilla later emerged that the composition came into its own.

It quickly developed into a gourmand scent, with vanilla, oud and the remnants of the plum note (now somewhat boozy) quite prominent. To my nose, there was a sexy gourmand vibe occurring – this stage persisted for almost an hour before the vanilla subsided and the oud took centre stage again. The other notes had now settled down at this point and all I was left with was this slightly fruity (not floral) oud drydown. I gently breathed onto my arm, to generate some heat, and noticed that the vanilla and boozy plum notes suddenly reappeared (but not as prominently as before).

Although it's still early days, Red Aoud impressed in spades. By incorporating notes that would normally be confined to their regular line, Montale has breathed new life into their aoud line.


2) Final conclusion:

After a few weeks wearing this, my opinion of Red Aoud has drastically changed for the worse. It seems my love affair with this is now well and truly over, for the following reasons:

a) The more I wear it, the more it comes across as muddy and unnecessarily cluttered – there's just too many incompatible notes fighting for attention and it begins to grate after a while. It's a composition that's in dire need of better construction and more opportunities for the notes to really breathe.

b) It now reminds me of the air freshener used in the toilets of a couple of restaurants I've been to. I made this unfortunate association within days of first testing it and have never been able to shake it off.

c) From the mid notes to the drydown, the iris becomes very prominent (and I'm not a big fan of this note). At times, it feels like I'm wearing a better blended version of Dior Homme Intense.

d) Due to its pungent nature, I really can't see myself reaching for it very often.

Based on all the above points, it's most certainly not for me. However, I'll give it a neutral rating for being so unique.

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

http://www.basenotes.net/specials/montale.html

[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

Customer: So, this is the ‘intense’ version of Tom Ford for Men?

SA: Oh, yes!

Customer: Is it EDP concentration? After all, this is the extreme version.

SA: Ermmm… no.

Customer: So, it’s still the same strength as Tom Ford for Men?!

SA: Ahem... yes, that's right...

Customer: Okay… but it does have better longevity and sillage, right?

SA: Well, the difference is quite marginal, to be honest – the emphasis here is actually in the composition of the notes and...

Customer: But isn’t it double the price?

SA: Ermmm, yes...

Customer: So, essentially, this fragrance is for mugs and people who have money to burn?

(The SA stares blankly at the customer, wishing to be somewhere else...)


[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

For those expecting a highly potent incense scent in Norma Kamali Incense, let me warn you now that you’ll be sorely disappointed. If anything, this is more of an ambery-type scent with spices.

During the opening, the first thing I noticed was an almost menthol note, in the same vein as Montale’s Patchouli Leaves. Maybe it’s eucalyptus? At first, I wasn’t quite sure but trizydlux’s review has certainly hit the nail on the head – it’s labdanum that I was smelling (which is also listed as one of the official notes in Patchouli leaves).

Throughout its development, I am unable to detect much incense or copal, and there is definitely no burning accord (much to my disappointment) – it merely comes across as a distant relation to Patchouli Leaves, with spices and subtle incense notes playing supporting roles.

As for longevity, this seems to be another myth – I roughly get about six hours from this perfume extrait (albeit with reasonable sillage). In addition, it doesn’t smell old-fashioned, as originally feared, and comes across as quite contemporary. Based on this, one is left wondering if this was re-formulated at some point (and the chances of that are reasonably high).

Norma Kamali Incense is, ultimately, quite an exotic scent to wear but it miserably fails to deliver upon its promises (and what promises they are). However, if I had to rename it, I would simply call it Spicy Labdanum.

Well, I’m afraid there’s not much I can say about this one. Yes, it’s slightly masculine (in an Italian way) but one can’t deny how faint and generic this smells. I also get the tobacco and leather, in the composition, but it’s so underwhelming and uneventful that I’m at a loss as to what Gucci was thinking when they created this.

The downward spiral continues, while also insulting the intelligence of consumers in the process…

Although it's not an unadulterated patchouli scent, Patchouli Noir is not all that dark either...

Instead, this is a delicious and very wearable patchouli (pretty much in the same manner as it's amber counterpart, Ambre 114). It's quite a complex composition, with subtle floral accords, but my main reservation is its lack of presence. While its longevity and sillage are slightly above average, I was hoping for more aggression and drama (especially going by its name). Alas, as a result, its general performance was very polite and demure.

Still, this is a lovely patchouli fragrance that's worth investigating but, somehow, I didn't find it quite as compelling as Ambre 114.

Escada Homme is a boozy-woody fragrance that, at first, smells very boozy. There’s also a fruity accord in the composition, with something spicy (cinnamon?) lurking in the background. It’s an okay scent, albeit slightly dated, but too inoffensive and safe for my liking.

After trying all the perfume extrait samples by Farmacia SS. Annunziata, I was left quite bewildered rather than amazed (and it was the latter I was dearly hoping for). It’s not so much that only one out of the three releases has any noticeable longevity on my skin (i.e. this one) but more to do with an acute sense of been there done that – but solely with other Italian niche houses.

Maybe I’m getting a bit paranoid but, at this point in my exploration of Italian niche perfumery, I’m getting the distinct impression that most of these houses are… well, plagiarising each other. And even if this wasn’t completely the case, they definitely seem to be copying each other from a similar conceptual angle.

So, you still don’t believe me? Okay, well answer this question:

Name three notes (or note themes), which Italian niche perfumery seems currently obsessed with?

Okay, so are your answers similar to the dominant notes used in the Farmacia SS. Annunziata perfume extraits (i.e. amber, vanilla and patchouli)? I’m pretty sure you guessed at least two of them correctly…

As for Vaniglia del Madagascar, this smells at least 99% identical to Profumum Roma’s Vanitas. Now, I’m not accusing Farmacia SS. Annunziata of copying Profumum Roma, since I have no idea which one came out first, but you’d have to be either suffering from OCD or a complete vanilla freak to own both of these.

Looking at the note pyramids of both (which isn’t really saying much) the main difference between them is more in the drydown – Vaniglia del Madagascar employs amber (which I honestly couldn’t detect) while Vanitas utilises myrrh and sandalwood (noticeable but very subtle). The drydown of Vanitas also possesses a slightly dark and brooding undertone (possibly due to the myrrh) but, apart from that, they pretty much smell the same.

Overall, I could only detect two significant differences between them – price and sillage. Vaniglia del Madagascar does possess sufficient (albeit moderate) sillage but, while being a perfume extrait, it’s unable to match the nuclear EDP sillage of Vanitas. As for price, Vaniglia del Madagascar is, interestingly, much cheaper than Vanitas but that’s not to say the quality of the ingredients and blending are inferior – they’re pretty much of a similar high standard.

Personally, I much prefer the intense opulence of Vanitas (it’s definitely the more tenacious of the two). However, if you wish for a softer version of Vanitas or would simply like a cheaper alternative (once you’ve managed to accept the fact that sillage and longevity will be slightly less), Vaniglia del Madagascar would make an excellent choice.

I have to admit that when I first smelt Vaniglia del Madagascar my heart sank – the realisation that I could have acquired something very similar to Vanitas, for much less, was too much to bear thinking about (and £50 is a huge difference). However, after testing them side-by-side, I can confidently state that I’m still very happy with my Profumum Roma purchase.

Therefore, based on my personal tastes, Vaniglia del Madagascar is very good but Vanitas is much better. Still, Vaniglia del Madagascar is highly recommended and can easily be considered as one of the best vanilla scents currently available.

Ichnusa is a scent that would certainly give the highly revered Philosykos a run for its money, especially as it’s an EDP concentration. As lizzie_j already mentioned, this is a wonderfully green aromatic, with a juicy fig accord that's not as creamy as Diptyque’s offering (which, in some ways, is a good thing). Unfortunately, the base notes become sweeter with a dominant vanilla accord emerging – much to the point that I’m often reminded of Montale’s Red Vetyver by this stage.

However, I think I’ll need to test this one again, especially when summer arrives, in order to decide if it's truly bottle-worthy. But, for now, I’ll give it a thumbs-up for providing a high quality, and longer lasting, alternative to the very short-lived Philosykos.

[Original submission date: 01 March 2009]

Gift Femme is probably my favourite from this house but it’s still not full bottle-worthy by mile. It’s simply another fruity-floral with base notes of patchouli, sandalwood, amber and musk. Regardless of the luxurious image this house attempts to project, it still smells synthetic and verges dangerously close to developing into something very generic.

No gold flakes in this one, though…

[Original submission date: 25 December 2008]

After the deceptive disappointment of Isfarkand pour Homme (i.e. a great opening but a generic and weak cedar drydown), I wasn’t really expecting much from Zizan (and if the listed notes were anything to go by, it sounded more like a hybrid of Ormonde Man and Isfarkand pour Homme). However, trying to be as open-minded as possible, I decided to give Zizan a chance.

Upon the first application, I was met with the usual citrus, pepper and juniper top notes that I’ve come to expect from most Ormonde Jayne offerings for men. Yes, it certainly smelt sophisticated but there was also a noticeable degree of déjà vu about it. Undeterred, I remained patient for the next stage of violet and jasmine, which (to be honest) completely escaped me. Instead, Zizan quickly moved to the base notes with strong whiffs of an almost creamy vetiver greeting my nose.

Within less than a minute of applying Zizan, the fragrance had morphed from a typical Ormonde Jayne offering to something I had smelt before. The scent was unmistakeable but it took me several moments before reaching the conclusion that it smelt very similar to Montale’s Red Vetyver. Although its longevity and sillage were very admirable (easily six hours) the association with Red Vetyver was impossible to dispel (even after the clichéd cedar accord became more evident). After several hours, the vetiver and cedar were faintly present with traces of amber and musk, working hard to sustain the fragrance during its final moments on my skin.

Although it smelt of quality, Zizan still came across as unnecessarily synthetic and lacking the degree of originality I was hoping to discover. If I had to describe more accurately what Zizan smells like, I would say this: where Terre d'Hermes is transparent and Red Vetyver is opaque, Zizan is translucent.

Unfortunately, for me, Zizan has proven to be the final nail in the coffin, with regards to my interest in this house.

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

I’ve heard comparisons between this and Lutens’ Un Cèdre and I can understand where some Basenoters are coming from. Both have an emphasis on cedar but, while Un Cèdre incorporates tuberose and amber, Feminitè du Bois utilises plum and vanilla notes instead.

After a while, the plum accord surrenders its dominance to the cedar base notes with a hint of vanilla lurking in the background. It’s also at this point that I start losing interest in Feminitè du Bois, as it was the sultry and juicy plum note that held my attention in the first place.

Still it’s a smooth, sensual and subtle cedar scent that is worth investigating, although I felt its longevity could have been slightly better. I also think that it’s more unisex than Un Cèdre which, paradoxically, comes across as more feminine.

If you found Un Cèdre disappointing, give this a try.

[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

What sounded like an interesting concept turned out to be somewhat of a disappointment. The opening showcases both the vanilla and chypre notes, working in perfect harmony – with a sharpness that’s at the same time very pleasant. However, the mid notes are a complete mess and the composition suddenly went crude on my skin. After at least an hour, of tolerating what can be best described as rotting vanilla, the vanilla note becomes more prominent and remains that way.

It's definitely not for me.

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

http://www.basenotes.net/specials/montale.html

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

At first, I found 1740 to be a very promising composition. With its well-composed mixture of bergamot, leather, patchouli and vanilla, it convincingly masquerades itself as a Luten-esque woody leather scent. Unfortunately, as always with my skin chemistry, the immortelle eventually dominated and never backed down. In the end, the drydown was very similar to a more tolerable version of Annick Goutal’s Sables.

If you love immortelle / everlasting flower / fungeek, this would be a great fragrance to investigate. However, if like me, such notes tend to overwhelm and outstay their welcome (thus ensuring acute olfactory irritation) give this one a miss. It’s a real pity because, if the base notes were as appealing as the top and mid notes, I would probably have given this a thumbs-up.

The opening blast was just too harsh but, within a couple of hours, it did settle into something almost wearable. I easily noticed the tar notes throughout its development, while the drydown was slightly creamy.

Unfortunately, my overall impression (especially when compared to L’Air) was that it came across as somewhat unfinished. I also found the drydown in need of a slight kick (but not as over the top as the top notes).

It’s pretty good (after a little patience) but not really for me.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Hmmm… I was expecting great things from this one (even if the bottle looks like a suntan lotion product). At first, the top notes seem promising but it quickly descends into a synthetic mess that’s hard for me to appreciate. There are definitely associations with salty seas and coconuts, but that wasn’t enough to maintain my dwindling fascination with it. It’s just one of those scents that quickly irritates.

Strangely enough, this seems to be very popular among Eastern European men – it’s the only time I encounter this scent in London (it’s impossible to obtain in the UK but I’ve been informed that it’s quite easy to find in countries such as Poland). I’m very curious as to why this is the case…

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

The initial top notes smelt slightly medicinal with a sharp bitterness. Although I wasn't too sure if it was really to my tastes, I found it intriguing. I did get a fleeting impression that its uniqueness could eventually win me over (in the same way Chergui did) and, as it dried down, it developed into something more feminine than unisex. Once again, this wasn’t too much of a problem for me.

Unfortunately, I came to the realisation that the dry down (hours later) was very similar to Bois d’Argent. Personally, I prefer Bois d’Argent to the harsh aldehydic nature of La Myrrhe.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

A very green scent with citrus top notes and lots of moss and pine. Personally, I can't stand pine notes – it just comes across as so dated (circa ‘70s and early-‘80s). Obviously, this one just isn’t for me.

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

I completely agree with zztopp’s wonderful assessment of Balle de Match and there’s not much more I can add.

Balle de Match is one of the best citrus scents I’ve come across so far. The aspect I love most about the composition is the way the juniper berry and peppery accords work so well with the zesty citrus top notes. The drydown is quite subtle but the clarity and richness of the lemon and grapefruit are still there for quite some time.

It’s a refined and classy scent with pretty good longevity, especially for something of this ilk. I’ve been holding back, for some time, from getting a bottle of this but I may soon cave in, with the summer heat rapidly approaching.

Although I quite enjoyed wearing this, one can’t help denying that most (if not all) of the Ormonde Jayne fragrances adhere too much to a particular olfactory style – the bright and bold citrus opening, the floral / spicy / floral-spicy mid notes (intermingling with remnants of the top notes) and the inevitable domineering amber or cedar drydown. This house verges considerably close to being a two-trick pony (one for the male offerings and the other for the female scents) and, sadly, Osmanthus doesn’t serve to discredit such an accusation.

Now, I have to be honest here and confess that I do not recall ever having smelt real osmanthus but, as Merbert pointed out, this is more of a fruit salad composition than a die-hard floral affair. That in itself shouldn’t be seen as a huge negative, especially when other houses are releasing fragrances with equally misleading names and descriptions (Montale and Martine Micallef, anyone?). However, when the floral notes are subdued by a dominant pomelo and peppery development, one does begin to wonder if Osmanthus really deserves the excuses such compassion demands.

It’s not a terrible scent but it’s nothing remarkable either and, for the price this house is charging, one would expect something much more satisfying.

Essentially, Le Mâle with dominant florals in the top notes.

The James Blunt of perfumery…

[Original submission date: 29 October 2007]

Although it’s not a completely generic fresh scent, Guerlain Homme still remains a complete and utter disappointment from this classic house. I’m so disappointed by this wishy-washy offering that I can’t even be bothered to write a proper review. So, below are some of my thoughts:

1) There's hardly a mojito accord to my nose – the mint and citrus are too subtle.
2) It smells more like an updated version of Vetiver, with a dominant 'clean' vetiver accord.
3) Its sillage is minimal with a longevity of about 3-5 hours.
4) It smells more synthetic than I would normally expect from a Guerlain.
5) After the top notes disappear (whatever you can detect of them) the drydown is generic and very faint.
6) It reminds me more of a Bulgari than an actual Guerlain in more ways than one.

Obviously, Guerlain Homme is an attempt to create a mainstream release for men and, to a certain degree, they have probably succeeded (because it's an extremely boring and cheap-smelling creation). Unfortunately, the consequence of such an achievement is that the reputation of Guerlain has been further stained by yet another below par release.

This is something Jean-Paul Guerlain could have quickly rustled up in his sleep.

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

I mistakenly obtained a sample of Lipstick Rose, thinking this house only had one rose scent, when what I really wanted was Une Rose! Ah, well…

The best part about Lipstick Rose is the sharp and sweet fruity opening – an almost sparkingly raspberry accord. The top notes, at first, smell very juicy and true to the real thing. However, within minutes, that sparkling sweetness grows rapidly dull as the violet note emerges. As the sweetness decreases a notch or two, it’s from this point onwards that Lipstick rose evolves into something very one-dimensional.

Although I have no idea what Lancôme lipstick smells like, I can also detect a subtle lipstick accord becoming ever present. What started off as bright and natural now smells mute and slightly synthetic. The main problem I have is how it promised so much at the beginning only to disappoint, literally, minutes later.

I completely agree with Nukapai about this being more playful than sensual but I can only relate to this point during the opening, as the drydown is simply cold and clinical. By the drydown stage, when the violets have surrendered to the amber and slightly metallic rose accords, I’ve completely lost interest in wearing this.

Although it’s a tad feminine, I think most men are able to pull off wearing this due to its more unisex drydown. It has good longevity and stays closer to the skin as it evolves. If Lipstick Rose had a few more tricks up its sleeve, I might have given it a few more wearings. But, alas, this is not the case and there are far more interesting fragrances (both designer and niche) that can be worn in place of this.

[Original submission date: 24 October 2008]

L'Ombre dans L'Eau is very different from most of Diptyques offerings, in that it isn’t strictly a linear scent – not that linearity is a bad thing but it was a very pleasant surprise:

Top notes: Starts off with a very sharp (and masculine) citrus-green opening – it’s one of the best and most unique openings I’ve experienced in quite a while. The presence of the blackcurrant leaves create a dark, pungent and slightly sour accord. This stage lingers for at least 10 minutes.

Mid notes: This is the most challenging stage. At first, I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but (based on other reviews) realised a tomato leaf / plant accord shinning through [for those who loved this stage the best, and wished it lasted longer, the closest scent that comes to mind is Sisley’s Eau de Campagne]. The gradual emergence of the rose can be clearly detected half-way through.

Base notes: Although the green notes remain, albeit more subdued, the rose note becomes more prominent. Unfortunately, some disappointment sets in as I’m heavily reminded of both Lutens’ Sa Majesté la Rose and Montale’s Ta’if Rose. However, based on the sudden relisation that the other two were released at least 15 years later, all respect for this composition remains unscathed.

L'Ombre dans L'Eau still smells timeless and is a wonderful creation. Its lasting power is also one of the best I've experienced by Diptyque. Although I'm not sure if it's full bottle-worthy for me, it's most certainly an amazing creation that was ahead of its time.

[Original submission date: 24 October 2008]

Roadster is, indeed, not terribly original but it does smell great. It's just a pity that the drydown isn't as well-composed as the deliciously minty top notes – it just comes across as somewhat muddled.

As for the bottle, although I hate the design (I can't drive and have never been interested in cars), I do love the heavy glass used for the bottle. Also, the swivel cap is a wonderful touch.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

This has similarities to CdG’s Avignon but smells 'cleaner' with an almost cold metallic accord running through it. There's also a very pleasant menthol note, in the top notes, which gradually fades in the drydown – I very much like this stage. Unfortunately, for a Tauer, its longevity and sillage are disappointingly below average.

Maybe this one needs the summer heat to really blossom (like Serge Lutens’ Gris Clair) but, if this is the case, I’m at a loss as to why it was released in January. Also, even though it uses a very high percentage of natural frankincense essential oil, the use of the word 'Extreme' is still somewhat misleading because this is not a loud fragrance in the slightest.

In a nutshell, I'm largely disappointed because I was expecting something stronger (and possibly more sensual) than anything from the CdG Incense line. Although the longevity of incense is not necessarily the most tenacious of fragrance notes, I was still expecting Andy to turn the concept on its head.

Incense Extrême is just too timid for my liking.

[Original submission date: 11 July 2008]

After all the hype, I was expecting something really special. Instead all I got was something along the lines of a smoky Tea for Two, with oily petrol top notes (and a dash of pineapple thrown in for good measure).

It was definitely not up my alley but I can see the appeal.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

An amazing opening but the drydown was very generic and disappointing.

If you don’t agree with me about the drydown, but could do without the top notes, try Scent Intense or Nu instead. Your bank balance will certainly thank you for it.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Initially, this one bowled me over – citrusy top notes that took longer than usual to subside, with herbal undertones fleetingly introducing themselves before the emergence of the drydown.

And that’s where it all went wrong for me...

The herbal drydown is okay but, in comparison to the opening, disappointing and not as long-lasting as I was expecting.

This was one big anti-climax.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

A pleasant and very light cologne that reminds me of Caron’s Le 3me Homme but with more of an emphasis on an ‘apple-pie' accord rather than florals.

Although not full bottle-worthy (poor longevity), it’s still a pleasure to smell the wonderful top notes.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Louban is definitely a case of Montale going through the motions. It’s sorely a case of been there, done that (even if some incense has been thrown into the, now tired, rose and oud combo).

It’s not as tenacious or potent as Montale’s earlier oud efforts but some may prefer it this way. As for me, I much prefer their classic releases such as Black Aoud and Aoud Lime. This may well be a case of Montale attempting to attract more sales but, based on their unique positioning within the Western fragrance market, it’s very disappointing to see Montale compromise their integrity for the sake of an increase in turnover (and it’s not as if they desperately need to achieve this).

One also has to remember that, due to their potency, their older releases are not perfumes most of us will finish as quickly as those from other fragrance houses. So, where does it leave the veteran / die-hard fans of this house, who already own multiple Montales and are still eagerly awaiting another amazing release (like myself)? Probably out in the cold, it seems…

Please make a swift comeback, the Montale of old.

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I’m actually quite surprised that iris isn’t one of the notes listed in the pyramid, as it largely comes across as a better blended version of Dior Homme. I suppose it’s the lavender and star anise creating this illusion but it’s an intriguing (albeit brief) illusion nevertheless.

But I’m afraid that’s where my fascination with 1725 ends. Personally, I do not find it sexy in the ubiquitous sense and can only just about comprehend the use of the name ‘Casanova’ for this composition.

With medium longevity and very low sillage, I suppose I was expecting something with more richness and oomph. A stereotypical Casanova is renowned for having a highly noticeable presence and charisma, while overwhelming his ‘victims’ with irresistible and manipulative qualities (while making other men pale in comparison). Based on this, 1725 falls completely on its face because, unlike the Casanova it aspires to, it is too modest and unconvincing in its nature.

Overall, it’s desperately in need of more gumption and excitement.

Based on what the name implies, I found this to be almost devoid of these accords. It’s largely a fleeting soapy affair with only faint traces of incense and myrrh.

To be awfully frank, my dear boy, if you’re looking for something more substantial, it’d be a jolly good idea to look elsewhere…

For those who find the Montale rose aouds a bit too full on, Dark Rose would be the perfect alternative. There’s also an underlying fruitiness in the composition, which adds an extra dimension.

After the initial opening, it’s far too demure for my liking. However, this still deserves a thumbs-up.

This is a pleasing and old-fashioned rose scent, which would appeal to anyone after a more Victorian take on such an olfactory theme. Like other creations from this house, it has moderate longevity and sillage.

Mimosa stays true to Czech & Speake’s old-fashioned identity but smells soapy and musty in a very bad way. It’s probably my least favourite offering from this house but its longevity and sillage are above average.

Up until recently, most of the chocolate / anise scents tested so far had failed to fully satisfy in one way or another – too synthetic, disappointing longevity, an unpleasant accord, too sweet, etc. However, Guerlain's Gourmand Coquin is the closest one to being full-bottle worthy. It's not terribly ground-breaking, and the bottle design comes across as uninspired, but it seems to have almost touched all the bases that many have failed to.

The chocolate is slightly dark but, coupled with the vanilla, very creamy. I also detect a slight rum note but this is very subtle. It's not too feminine or cloying but rather well-balanced, while possessing a slight sophistication about it. Essentially, it takes certain key elements from both Rochas Man and Douce Amere, and revs up the volume to a more acceptable level.

Gourmand Coquin possesses a gentle and yet lovely sillage, with very good longevity. It also smells very natural and the interplay of vanilla and chocolate would make many vanilla lovers swoon. However, while this is a glorious scent, it’s not quite as amazing as Spiritueuse Double Vanille (in terms of its composition, distinctiveness and tenacity). This is not necessarily a bad thing but its over-inflated price tag only serves to magnify such shortcomings.

Maybe one day I’ll go crazy and buy myself a bottle but, until then, its qualities certainly deserve some praise.

Fresh, generic, watery, light blue... Not much more to say, I’m afraid.

Sorry but Allure Homme Sport smells like some cheap deodorant spray for men…

Patchouli starts off with a lot of promise – it’s alluring, contemporary-smelling and very potent. However, like most of the fragrances I tested from this house, it turned on my skin within an hour, and smelt pretty rancid and unbecoming.

On this occasion, I’ll blame my skin chemistry but I still think this is one of the best offerings from Parfums M. Micallef.

Vanille Aoud is a creamy vanilla and oud composition that failed to capture my imagination. It’s a soft creation that also smells very thin. In addition, the oud lacks any presence throughout its development.

If you’ve been spoilt by any of the Montale aoud releases, you’ll be sorely disappointed with this one.

EDP review:

I’ve never been a great admirer of Chanel No.5 (regardless of the concentration) and this variation on such a theme will not change my opinion. Dia for Women is a heavy and powdery floral-aldehyde that just reeks of a decadent lifestyle I honestly have no interest in aspiring to.

I admire elegance but this is just too much.

Lyric Woman is a marvellous spicy floral-incense fragrance, with sweet fruity undertones cascading throughout. The overall sweetness of the composition is further enhanced by a rich oriental base of the vanilla, woods and incense. With such masterful blending, the overall result is simply divine.

This is a deep and opulent scent, which I much prefer over the anaemic Lyric Man – there’s more oomph and complexity, and (as a result) is more satisfying to wear. Its longevity is above average but, for the price Amouage is charging, it could have been somewhat better. Lyric Woman also has decent sillage and, although it’s not necessarily a sillage monster, will certainly please more than it will disappoint.

Overall, I think Amouage have really outdone themselves on this one and see it as a superior compositon to the recently re-released Ubar. For me, there was a certain ‘hollowness’ to Ubar that prevented me from enjoying it as much as I would have liked. No matter, as they are both worthy creations.

This is most certainly Amouage’s best creation to date.

Although it’s the most adventurous of the three eau de colognes, it’s also my least favourite. The citrus notes (bergamot, mandarin, grapefruit and lemon) dissipate within a matter of seconds and, although the red ginger makes a cameo appearance from time to time, it’s really the osmanthus (at this point) that’s the star of the show.

Towards the drydown, the red ginger re-emerges to overwhelm (and eventually dominate) the osmanthus note. The transition from the red ginger to the patchouli, vetiver and vanilla drydown is well executed but one gets the impression that the grand finale is one big anti-climax. After a while, only whispers of vanilla, patchouli and musk remain.

Personally, I didn’t really enjoy the coupling of the red ginger and osmanthus, and felt that it was more floral than spicy at times. Also, I really wouldn’t know when to wear this (let alone reach for it). It’s an admirable effort, though.

Yes, the fruity-mint opening is briefly promising but (as others have mentioned) it’s completely generic and synthetic. There’s hardly anything redeeming about it and the name is just a pathetic example of desperation by the marketing department.

Nuit de Cellophane is a generic fruity-floral offering, which smells like many feminine designer scents based on the same theme. Oh dear…

As I stated over a year ago, this house has long run out of ideas (or enthusiasm) and is simply rehashing former glories.

Oh, how the mighty have fallen…

The cold, metallic and vegetal nature of Hiris just reminds me why I have such a difficult time appreciating iris dominant fragrances in general…

Now, I’m really getting sick and tired of these designer flankers, branding the word ‘intense’ or ‘extreme’ (let alone ‘sport’ – don’t get me started on that one) when the concentration is pretty much the same as the original (i.e. another weak EDT instead of a decent EDP). Okay, so some of the notes are revved up a few notches but, come on, such marketing strategies are nothing more than another exercise in pulling the wool over the consumer’s eyes. And what’s most concerning is that the masses will largely lap it up...

Punti zero.

Bulgari Aqua pour Homme is, admittedly, a surprisingly good aquatic. Although I’ve long moved on from such fragrances, one can’t help acknowledge how better composed (and less synthetic) it is to the myriad of aquatic scents currently available.

Yes, it may have been a somewhat lazy option for Bulgari (as most of their male and unisex fragrances tend to be geared towards smelling fresh) but it deserves a thumbs-up for showing that, with some tender loving care, decent aquatic scents are actually possible.

Crisp, clean and sophisticated it most certainly is but, with regards to longevity, even a dying mayfly can outlive a generous application of this…

Crisp, clean and sophisticated it most definitely is (and with much better longevity than the original) but, to be honest, it’s not that extreme – it still lacks sufficient substance.

For optimal results, apply your shirt / top with Bulgari pour Homme Extreme (in addition to your skin).

I’m afraid that Asha’s disappointment with Frapin 1270 is just as grave as mine. This had massive potential to be full-bottle worthy but didn’t really perform as well as expected. The notes are all there, sure, but its development is muddled and confusing, and the tart candy note never completely goes away – the whole gourmand theme overwhelms when, instead, it should have been just a facet.

Originally, I could sense great potential in this (particularly as a boozy version of Arabie with different twists and turns) but its execution and moderate longevity prevents it from scaling such heights.

I will certainly give Frapin 1270 another try in a few months but, while not wanting to completely dispute those who have posted positive reviews, I feel its fate may have simply fallen victim to that dirty word or taboo: ‘reformulation’.

Sandalo smells more like a synthetic aquatic than a sandalwood fragrance. Where’s the sandalwood?

This is a somewhat muddled and powdery rendition of vetiver that I didn’t really find appealing. I sensed more neroli than vetiver, thus giving it more of a floral presence as opposed to something earthy or woody. Sillage and longevity are below average.

Ambar is quite an enjoyable amber scent, along the lines of Ambre Sultan but without the herbal notes (or complexity). Sillage is below average and its longevity is so-so (about three hours or so) but, for the price, this makes an excellent to-go fragrance. It’s also ideal for those who either are on a tight budget or aren’t seriously into perfumes.

Great value for money!

A metallic-green scent with a very light woody-ambery base. Overall, Azzaro Now Men is an unoriginal green aquatic, with very poor longevity and sillage. There’s also a presence of something fig-like – leading me to deem this as a Marc Jacobs clone.

Pathetic.

EDP review:

I’m very disappointed with this one, not because it smells bad (and I can’t really detect the rubbery accord that others have mentioned) but because it’s so soft and faint. Alamut is a powdery floral-woody affair, which comes across (based on its performance) as a musk-dominant scent. It’s also very well blended, as detecting the individual notes is not that easy – so don’t be fooled by the simplistic nature of the way it smells.

To me, there’s nothing particularly awful about it – I just found it very nondescript and lacking in presence. As a result, I’m giving this a neutral.

Although the bottle design is amazing, I’m still unsure if there was any point in releasing this.

Escale à Portofino is a reasonable citrus-based eau de cologne but I found it too sharp for my tastes. Maybe it’s the combination of juniper berries and cypress that made it come across as discordant but, combined with a powdery drydown and its fleeting nature, I’ll have to pass on this one.

While I like Sacrebleu, I’m finding it very difficult to love. Granted, it’s a well composed fruity-floral, with a rich powdery vanilla and incense base, but its longevity and sillage leaves very little to be desired. Although it’s very sweet and consists of tuberose and jasmine, a confident man can easily wear this with panache.

As it stands, there’s nothing detrimentally wrong with this Guerlain-esque composition (although, unlike me, some may have reservations about its sweetness) but it’s certainly lacking some oomph, in order for me to unreservedly award this a thumbs-up.

Magazine Street is a glorious eucalyptus, vetiver, patchouli and vanilla composition that is indeed ground-breaking. It is fresh, deep and earthy all at the same time, and never becomes too sweet or cloying. It’s a stunning creation that’s also very easy to wear.

Unfortunately, for a 100% natural perfume such as this, sillage and longevity are not that stellar (thus not being full bottle-worthy for me). But this is such a marvellous scent in itself that awarding anything less than a thumbs-up would be utterly criminal.

Philtre d'Amour is a very fresh and beautiful floral-chypre, I must admit. However, there are too many similarities between this and Sisley’s Eau du Soir. Based on the fact that Sisley’s creation was released roughly a decade before (and also possesses superior longevity and sillage) I know which one will receive my unconditional allegiance.

I have to agree with The-odor – it does smell VERY similar to Coriolan / L'Âme d'un Héros. For most, distinguishing between these two Guerlain creations would be the olfactory equivalent of splitting hairs…

Derby is a very wearable minty leather scent. However, while I can respect it for what it is, it reeks too much of the ‘80s for comfort. Average sillage and longevity but its charms are simply lost on me.

This is truly a very successful rendition of papiers d'Arménie – so much that it actually brings back childhood memories. It’s a rich resinous mixture of woods, benzoin, incense, subtle florals and vanilla.

My main complaint is that it doesn’t really project that much and its longevity could have been a lot better. For the high price tag, a faint skin scent is not really worth my hard earned cash – especially for an exclusive EDP.

If it weren’t for these main flaws, I would have awarded Bois d'Arménie a thumbs-up.

This is my second favourite from the Les Elixirs Charnels collection. However, such vanilla scents have been done so much better, by Guerlain, many times over (Shalimar and Spiritueuse Double Vanille being very obvious examples). Based on this, Oriental Brulant's certainly not worth the high price tag.

Moderate lasting power and sillage.

I’m really not too sure what to make of this one...

With notes such as pink pepper, vetiver, laurel, coriander and musk, Victrix is a crisp, green and somewhat dry fragrance. It starts off with a sharp freshness but calms down on the skin within a matter of minutes. However, its longevity and sillage are very deceptive...

At first, it appears to have no staying power at all (especially after the first 30 minutes) – even sniffing the area of application gives this impression. However, throughout the day, traces of Victrix can be detected emitting from the skin completely unannounced. In some ways, I find this beguiling but, at the same time, very frustrating. It never really leaps off the skin but, instead, teases the wearer at irregular intervals.

Personally, the performance of Victrix is too coy and flirtatious, with no firm reassurance of offering something more substantial or worthwhile during its lifespan. Granted, it’s yet another high-quality offering by Profumum Roma but its performance is certainly not as consistent (or tenacious) as I was expecting.

Olibanum is a gorgeous incense and myrrh creation that certainly trumps Tauer’s Incense Extreme. While is it isn’t strictly a smoky (or burnt) woody-incense scent, it certainly is devoid of the metallic cleanness that hampered Incense Extreme. Its longevity is not the best from Profumum Roma but it is reasonably long-lasting (at least six hours) with moderate sillage. I do detect a tobacco accord but this could be due to the presence of orange blossom, which I don’t consider to be unbecoming in any way.

It’s a rich and genuine take on the incense theme, which should be investigated by those interested in incense dominant fragrances. Personally, I prefer incense more as a supporting note and, thus, am quite content with wearing Aoud Flowers and L'Air du Desert Marocain instead. However, if I was to change my mind (and if it possessed better sillage), Olibanum would be a prime candidate.

Once again, Profumum Roma has impressed and I look forward to seeing what else they come up with next.

Acqua Viva smells VERY similar to Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien but, at the same time, is more tolerable to wear. The same Beecham’s Honey and Lemon accord runs through this as in Eau d'Hadrien (which is something that fails to appeal to me – saccharine lemon and crushed paracetamol). Although it’s not too sweet, I found the lemon too dense, with a dirtiness becoming more evident during the drydown. Longevity is pretty good (six hours easily) but it tends to develop close to the skin as the hours pass.

If you’re looking for a refreshing lemon or citrus fragrance, this is most certainly not it. However, if the parallels drawn to Eau d'Hadrien appeals, this may be worth investigating.

Neroli is one of the better offerings by Czech & Speake and is a lovely rendition of the star note. Light (but with adequate substance), fresh and not too sweet.

Cuba is probably my favourite release by Czech & Speake and, as others have mentioned, is a better substitute to Aramis’ Havana (which I later found to be too harsh and synthetic). Now, I’ve never tried the vintage formulation, so I am unable to comment on how good this once was. However, based on the current formulation, I’m still pleasantly impressed with the refreshing mojito accord, married to the bay rum and tobacco notes.

I wouldn’t say it’s bottle-worthy (well, unless I had the chance of obtaining the vintage formulation) but it still deserves a thumbs-up.

Oxford & Cambridge is very a pleasant mint and lavender creation, although it’s a bit too sharp during the first few seconds. I would recommend this to anyone seeking a good old-fashioned eau de cologne but, alas, it’s too polite and Eton-esque for my tastes.

Kapsule Woody is terribly uninspired and synthetic scent with loads of cedar.

One gets the impression that Karl Lagerfeld couldn’t be bothered to put even an ounce of effort into this collection...

Kapsule Light is a bland and faint citrus offering, which lasts as long as it took to apply it to your body. I also found the bottle design cumbersome, cheap and tacky.

Kapsule Floriental is the best of the three Kapsules but only marginally. The dominant violet accord is its main strength but that’s as good as it gets.

Personally, there are far better designer fragrances to spend your money on.

Yuzu Fou is a completely putrid take on the whole grapefruit / yuzu theme. It certainly doesn't smell fresh, balanced or even alluring.

For a better interpretation of Yuzu, try Diptyque's Oyédo.

Pure Gold is an unremarkable, boring and very tame floral scent with no twists or turns…

******

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Where’s the oud?! The leather’s in there somewhere but it’s overwhelmed by a putrid iodine-like note. This also reminded me of L'Eau Bleue D'Issey pour Homme (yes, rotting vegetables / disposal waste territory here we come…). However, its ‘off’ smell isn’t reminiscent of Aoud Cuir d'Arabie’s initial stench (and at least Aoud Cuir d'Arabie developed into something more enjoyable).

Aoud Leather just remains static, boring and quite unpleasant to wear.

******

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The gradual decline in quality Montale releases continue with this very bland offering. There are certainly spices but not much amber here. At the end of the day, Amber & Spices comes across as thin and sorely lacking.

I’m still pinching myself in disbelief…

******

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Boring, slightly feminine, powdery and with disappointing longevity.

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

Acqua di Colonia is so generic and predictable that it's almost painful...

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

Extreme?! Hmmm, I really don't think so...

For the first couple of hours, Mûre et Musc Extrême was pretty prominent on my skin. However, after that, what remained wasn’t what I would call a skin scent. No matter, as I was a bit concerned about walking around in public smelling like a blackberry pie...

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

A (severely) watered down Gucci PH. Is this house some sort of in-joke or what?

[Original submission date: 04 January 2007]

Another pleasant, green and clean scent from Comme des Garçons, which (like all their other scents of this ilk) smells somewhat synthetic and lacks any real presence.

I’m still looking for a Comme des Garçons scent that I can truly fall in love with…

[Original submission date: 04 January 2007]

This is a slightly minty, aquatic fragrance with very little vetiver. It really failed to overwhelm me in any way, even though it smelt quite pleasant. I was hoping to get more vetiver out of this but it never happened.

I’m quite surprised that no-one has mentioned how similar the drydown is to Geir.

******

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[Original submission date: 12 January 2007]

The best LesNez scent, so far.

The main thing that grabs me about this one is the dominant violet note and its interaction with the sharp green notes – I find this aspect refreshing and quite intriguing. Although slightly feminine, I could easily see a man wearing this. However, once again, it’s too weak to even be considered bottle worthy.

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

I really don't know why so many Basenoters knock this one.

Although it's a woodier version of the original, it has better longevity and smells just as great (even though some of the freshness has been lost). I still wish it lasted longer on me, though.

Unfortunately, after a while, it turns on my skin – hence the neutral rating.

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

My favourite from the Blu Mediterraneo line. A very gentle and warm skin scent with vanilla and almonds. Although intentionally subtle, I do wish it made more of a statement.

A great comfort scent.

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

Another favourite from the best CdG series.

This is essentially a sharp citrus (grapefruit?) fragrance with something metallic thrown in for good measure. Decent lasting power too.

It’s not something I would wear, personally, but for those looking for something more conventional try Diptyque’s Oyédo instead.

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

My second favourite from the Blu Mediterraneo line. A sweet and fresh orange scent that compliments the original Acqua di Parma.

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

My favourite Knize so far. A great mossy scent with brilliant longevity. Unfortunately, it's a little too conservative (or possibly mature) for me.

Definitely worth a try!

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

An intense and pungent woody fragrance that made me jerk back my head in initial disgust. However, it does settle down to something warm and spicy. Although this would have been nice to wear in the ‘80s, I definitely can’t see myself wearing it now (and this is its main downfall).

I still love the re-vamped bottle, though.

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

For months I was unsure about Chergui – I found it to be a very moody scent. However, with the 50ml limited edition bottles quickly dwindling in supply, I decided to take the plunge and have no regrets.

Its nuances really emerge when worn on bitterly cold days, hence the difficulty I had in initially ‘getting it’. After reaching this moment of enlightenment, enjoying it during the autumn and winter months (regardless of the weather) has become second nature.

Warm, complex and utterly sensual – this is the ultimate oriental.

[Original submission date: 02 February 2007]

Another ‘predictable’ and ‘clean’ Hermès fragrance, which lacks decent longevity. This one also turned on my skin.

I wouldn’t even purchase it for a quarter of its retail price.

[Original submission date: 02 February 2007]

I totally agree with MonkeyManMatt – within minutes, it smells like a 1st series reject. It smells quite disgusting too.

[Original submission date: 11 February 2007]

Wow, this is a truly wonderful cologne!

I’ve always been an admirer of both Acqua di Parma original and Assoluta but never became a big fan of either (the original was a tad too sharp and very short-lived, while the Assoluta version always turned on my skin). Personally, I prefer Acqua di Genova so much more. The floral notes really help to soften the sharp citrus notes, making it a better balanced scent than Acqua di Parma (albeit slightly sweeter).

It’s been mentioned that Acqua di Genova’s softer than Acqua di Parma and I would wholeheartedly agree. However, I think its longevity is much better than its Italian counterpart. Although the drydown is a very subtle and musky skin scent, this can still be detected hours later.

In addition, I don’t agree about it smelling feminine at all. Personally, this is a beautiful creation that can (and should) be enjoyed by both genders.

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

EDP review:

A dark coffee scent that starts off with a strong blast and then dies down, with some woody notes, during the drydown. There’s hardly any creaminess here, so don’t go expecting a creamy gourmand. Lasting power is not great, though.

It’s an okay creation but its rich coffee darkness is too harsh for me.

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

EDP review:

The Ava Luxe scent I’ve received the most compliments on!

Crème Brûlée is a wonderfully thick and heady gourmand scent that smells exactly like it says on the label. Longevity is pretty good (4-5 hours) but could have lasted longer. Sillage is above average.

Unfortunately, its intense vanilla and caramel sweetness is far too much for me to even consider investing in a full-sized bottle (and I love vanilla-based scents).

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

EDP review:

Is this really meant to be a musk scent?! I couldn’t smell a thing!

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

What in the blazes is this?! This is unadulterated cumin hell!

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

A fleeting (and synthetic) rubber and vanilla scent, which is something I certainly do not care for.

Great bottle concept, though...

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

An elegant lavender and vanilla scent, which starts out full of promise but wimps out on my skin. If it had better lasting power, I wouldn’t hesitate in buying a bottle.

Such a pity.

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

I agree with the other reviewers – what made the original so special has been lost somewhere along the way. Its longevity is also very disappointing for an EDP.

And I really had high hopes for this one.

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

This is totally unwearable!

There’s no bloody way I’m going to smell like a curry-eating lout, who suddenly had the urge to buy an ice-cream and 99p flake for dessert.

Compelling, in its own special way, but utterly gross!

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

They’ve certainly screwed over Geir Ness with this one. The power of Norway will soon be no more…

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

I’m in total agreement with the other negative reviews – this smells nothing like the original. Its only positive point (which, to be honest, isn't much) is slightly better longevity.

A pungent mess.

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

An okay (although quite synthetic) citrus eau de cologne. There’s not much longevity here and I’m sure there are far better alternatives on the market for pretty much the same thing.

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

Although this is essentially a very masculine patchouli / rose combo, this is a niche scent that disappoints far more than it actually satisfies. Instead of being a bold, dominant and long-lasting rose fragrance for men, it simply dies down to almost nothing within half-an-hour.

‘Hey, but isn’t this an EDP?’ I hear you ask. Yes, well that’s what I thought too…

[Original submission date: 20 May 2008]

The pink bottle says it all – a girlie fruity-floral with a hint of woods. Not only is the bottle patronising but the scent itself is generic beyond belief. It also smells like something that Costume National would have released.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

This is a real complex beast with great longevity. It also seems to embody certain qualities of many Guerlain vanilla-based classics (so much so that one is forced to conclude that Enslaved aspires to be a Guerlain).

One of its funny characteristics is how it briefly goes awry on my skin only to refrain itself, at some point, from going any further (much to my relief). When it eventually gets itself back on track, it continues to develop wonderfully. The fact that this happens at least twice during its development (and never completely turns on my skin) says a lot about how multi-faceted Enslaved really is.

I can’t make out the notes but, in addition to vanilla, I do sense some peach, spices, opoponax and myrrh during its development. Its composition is far more dense and interwoven than most fragrances I’ve had the pleasure of testing but this is something to be truly admired.

Unfortunately, I really can’t see myself buying a bottle of this. Why not? Well, for £95 I'd prefer it to have much more projection than it currently emits from my skin (which isn’t much). However, there are very few fragrances that I would class as runner-ups, in terms of becoming part of my wardrobe, but Enslaved is certainly one of them.

UPDATE:

I've changed my rating from a thumbs-up to a neutral, since experiencing Habanita – Enslaved is almost a carbon copy of this.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Boise Vanille is a very dry vanilla scent, with woods and spices, that heavily reminds me of a slightly modernised Habanita. I also find it a very moody scent and have to be in the right frame of mind to wear it. The drydown is quite sensual but it's not as compelling or versatile as one would wish.

******

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[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

Eau de Campagne took me a few attempts to appreciate but now I do. This is a straightforward green scent that smells as green as freshly cut grass in a meadow (with a dominant tomato leaf accord, which may not be to everyone's tastes). When summer next comes around, I may re-visit it again to see if it's full bottle-worthy.

So far, the only green scent that I truly admire.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

It still smells a little too synthetic for my liking but it's probably one of the better chocolate scents currently available on the market. Luckily, the tar notes do subside to reveal a smooth and rich combination of woods, patchouli and coffee.

Not bad!

[Original submission date: 28 May 2008]

Serge Luten’s Rahät Loukoum doesn’t last long enough, Montale’s Oriental Dream is absolutely perfect but, alas, Keiko Mecheri’s effort is simply too powdery for my tastes.

[Original submission date: 06 August 2008]

Sweet Oriental Dream is probably the most satisfying and alluring loukoum scent I’ve come across so far! This gourmand is simply a delicious and intoxicating creation – I just can’t stop smelling my wrists!

The honey, vanilla, almonds, rose and cherries are so well blended that I can't really detect any rose. Yes, the opening is extremely sweet but this eventually settles down (and the drydown is very sexy).

The jury’s still out as to whether or not I would be able to get away with wearing this (as it smells more feminine than unisex), but a decant is at least in order. Personally, this is a major improvement on Serge Lutens’ interpretation of loukoum (i.e. less powdery and with greater longevity).

Utterly superb!

******

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[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

“Relaxed avant-garde. Very sophisticated, very casual, very mmm.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

I find violet scents very tricky to wear and this one’s no exception. The green woody notes provide a masculine edge to the overall composition but, once again, its understated and translucent nature (pretty much like every other offering from this house) leaves me feeling underwhelmed. Still, Mark Buxton’s creations for this house are still worth investigating.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

Black Goldskin opens with a citrus burst (possibly mandarin) but dries down to a buttery-balsam accord (or, to be blunt, body cream). Like most creations from this house, it stays pretty close to the skin. It’s probably one of the more unisex fragrances from the Goldskin line and is more subdued than, say, Goldskin.

By the way, gold flakes reside in the juice. So, beware!

[Original submission date: 25 December 2008]

For those who are new to Montale, it would be very easy (and understandable) to confuse this creation with Aoud Flowers. Personally, although they are both floral ouds, they are completely different beasts.

Aoud Red Flowers is far more floral, subtle and feminine than Aoud Flowers. It also lacks a certain edge and, like most of the recent Montale aoud releases, doesn’t contain as much oud as earlier aoud releases from this house.

Very feminine and slightly boring.

******

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

Vanille Gourmande is a rich, but not foody, vanilla with a degree of sophistication. Its notes include vanilla orchid, vanilla liqueur, vanilla musk, heliotrope, daylily, bourbon vanilla, sandalwood and amber. Personally, it smells very similar to Serge Lutens’ Un Bois Vanille but with the woods being replaced by florals. As a result, the overall composition is softer rather than feminine. It’s not ground breaking nor unique but it’s definitely one of the better creations from this house.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

I've yet to come across a scent, from this house, that blows me away and this one's no exception. Although Yerbamate mainly consists of baby powder and green (or herbal) notes, there's also a sharp wax accord that compels me to scrub it off my wrist as quickly as possible.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

When I first ordered a small sample of Arabie, a couple of years ago, I originally disliked it. It was extremely strong, with the composition coming across as both overwhelming and very over the top. However, these qualities soon compelled me to revisit it by dabbing more onto my wrist every so often.

Once I half-finished the sample vial, I ended up giving the rest away – I still wasn’t completely convinced by it. However, I couldn't completely forget about Arabie as time went by. It was only several months later that, while sampling other fragrances in department stores, I suddenly felt the need to give it another try. And then another. And then another…

Arabie is a real tough cookie and, even by Serge Lutens’ standards, also very ‘off the wall’ (but in a wonderful way). Put simply, it requires more perseverance and patience than most of the challenging niche scents currently on the market. As I already mentioned, it wasn’t easy falling in love with it – in fact it was almost a constant struggle. But now that perseverance has fully paid off, I am finally able to appreciate it for what it is – an extremely potent, tenacious and complex fruity gourmand.

Although some would claim Arabie to be unwearable, I consider it to be just as versatile as any other revered scent once that moment of revelation arrives (if it ever does). Its resinous nature also enables Arabie to be worn effectively well during the warmer months. It may be very sweet but don’t let that fool you into thinking it’s strictly a cold weather scent.

Yes, it does smell like a spicy fruitcake and, yes, its pungent and dark fruitiness does remind me somewhat of Christmas. However, if nothing else, its aroma certainly does conjure up images of North Africa and the Middle East (quite a remarkable feat since there is no oud, whatsoever, in the composition).

Arabie is brash, blatantly unapologetic and totally unconventional. It’s definitely one of the best creations from this house.

[Original submission date: 21 July 2008]

“Captivating clarity. Depth. Exhaling. The power of silence.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

The creations by both Mark Buxton and Geza Schoen are the best ones from this house. This is a very pleasant fuity floral scent that possesses a dewy freshness. Unfortunately, this one is just as subtle and translucent as the others.

[Original submission date: 11 July 2008]

Ginger Musk is far too sweet, almost devoid of any ginger and smells more fruity than spicy. Frankly, this should have been called Berry Musk instead – I'm certain it would be a more popular offering as a result.

******

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[Original submission date: 05 August 2008]

Although I'm not a big fan of L'Artisan, this has to be the best tea scent I've come across so far. While other tea scents smell either unappealing or too synthetic, Tea for Two is a beautifully balanced composition. As others have already mentioned, it's a spicy, cosy and smoky tea scent that is probably best worn on mild days.

The only gripe I have with it (and with other L'Artisans) is its lack of complexity and depth – if Tea for Two was richer and stronger, it would be in my wardrobe immediately.

It's still worthy of a thumbs-up, though.

[Original submission date: 15 April 2008]

Have you ever read those reviews on perfume blogs, where the reviewer paints a very graphic (and often exotic) picture of what a perfume smells like but, no matter how impressive their literary / descriptive skills are, you’re still pretty much clueless as to what the bloody juice smells like (well, unless you are one of the lucky ones who remember being either a dandy or sultan in your previous life)? With all due respect, as much as I’m all for artistic license, sometimes it’s best to keep things simple (especially when your hard-earned cash is involved).

Noir de Noir is, allegedly, the most popular of the initial 12 private collection scents released by Tom Ford. Although such praise is encouraging, not everyone will be in agreement. So, is it any good? Well, yes… but, then again, not really…

When I first tried Noir de Noir, I was oblivious to such praise or the so-called innovative use of truffles. However, I did decide to cast off all negative feelings I have for this house, and just let both my skin chemistry and nose judge the scent for what it is. Initially, I was quite impressed after a spritz on a test strip and waited a couple of days before re-visiting it again (that is, when my arms were perfume-free).

Upon second testing, I was met with a sharp agarwood (along the lines of Aoud Lime) before it quickly settled down, with the truffle note slowly becoming more intense. I remembered reading, somewhere on the forum, that this was very similar to Black Aoud but I wasn’t completely convinced. The truffle accord managed to succeed in taming the sharp agarwood to a certain extent, while the rose smelt more like a floral bouquet than a dark rose accord. And then about 25 minutes later, it suddenly hit me…

Noir de Noir does smell very Montale-like but it’s not as distinctive as it tries to make out. With regards to the Black Aoud comparison, the intense agarwood is too sharp and the florals too pungent to draw such a comparison. However, it’s dark nature reminds me heavily of Aoud Flowers. Yes, Noir de Noir is simply Aoud Flowers with some truffles thrown in for good measure! Unfortunately, that’s where the resemblance ends – for where Aoud Flowers possesses amazing sillage and longevity, Noir de Noir’s sillage is almost minimal with average longevity. It actually took quite a while before I could detect Noir de Noir on my skin but when it finally blossomed, I had pretty much lost interest in acquiring it. By the end of the afternoon, I could hardly detect it at all (and I spritzed myself at least half a dozen times).

Doing the maths, Aoud Flowers costs £35-£40 for 50ml (from Paris) while a 50ml bottle of Noir de Noir retails at £95. Now, okay, the Tom Ford exclusive bottles are very nice (I especially love the plastic lining of the caps, which prevent the nozzle from being continuously scratched) but do you really want to pay an extra £60 for the addition of a truffle accord?

If the answer is yes, here’s my advice: buy a 50ml bottle of Aoud Flowers, from Paris, and layer it with something like Yves Rocher’s Néonatura – Cocoon (which you can buy dirt cheap). I’m sure you’ll get something extremely close to Noir de Noir for less money, and with better longevity and sillage.

[Original submission date: 05 January 2009]

Moss Breches, initially, comes across as an old-fashioned smelling chypre – with herbal spicy accords that slap you around the face, like an irate father sporting a string vest, golden medallion and an unkempt moustache. The drydown, however, is almost a world away – with patchouli and vanilla being the main players by this stage.

I can certainly understand why some would appreciate this but it's not something I would bother investing in.

[Original submission date: 05 January 2009]

Love is probably my favourite from this house but that's not saying much. It’s a light but pleasant floral-gourmand, with a slight metallic accord running through it (probably due to the iris). Alas, this is something that has been done so many times before, usually much better and for a lot less.

If you’re really thinking of getting a bottle of this, I'd advise you to wait a little longer and test other similar gourmands before making an investment. Yes, the bottle is absolutely lovely but it's not worth £140 – after all, it should all be about the juice.

[Original submission date: 18 December 2008]

Écume de Thé is probably the best tea scent I’ve smelt so far (with the exception of Tea for Two, of course). Although the initial sharp citrusy blast was concerning, it soon developed into a lovely smokey tea scent with subtle floral and spicy notes making it all the more compelling.

Unlike most tea scents, this one has plenty of body and sillage (unlike those by Bulgari), and doesn’t smell synthetic and unbecoming (like Yang). The composition also smells very refined and smooth – something many tea fragrances, in my experience, sorely lack. However, tea scents aren’t really my cup of tea [sorry!] but, even if they were, I’d prefer to try the discontinued EDP version before making an investment (if that's at all possible).

Regardless of my personal tastes, this still deserves an unreserved thumbs up.

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

After all the comparisons to A*Men, Borneo 1834 didn’t really seem like an attractive option to me. Even though my opinion has since changed, I still feel underwhelmed and unsatisfied when it’s on my skin. Yes, the combination of dark chocolate and patchouli is both inviting and sensual but it lacks the complexity and depth I would normally expect from Serge Lutens. A straightforward patchouli scent is definitely something that I was not expecting and its longevity is rather disappointing (roughly four hours).

In some ways, it reminds me of my disappointment with Montale’s Patchouli Leaves – too much amber and not enough patchouli (in other words, I found the name misleading). With Borneo 1834, the patchouli’s most definitely there but, during the drydown, there’s very little else to hold my interest. It also lacks the richness I would usually expect from this house.

[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

Sandalsilver is not a great Montale release but nor is it a bad one – it’s simply a confused underachiever. There have been times when I've not been sure what this scent wants to develop into but, when it’s sure, I usually get this soft and creamy sandalwood shinning through. Other than that, this scent is a bit of a mess with all kinds of random citrus, floral, woody and green notes making cameo appearances for no significant reason. Longevity is okay but it pretty much stays close to the skin for most of the duration.

Personally, I consider Sandalsilver to be the sandalwood equivalent of Serge Lutens' muddled (floral) take on cedar (Cèdre) – they both had potential but the execution let them down. Alas, the creamy sandalwood note is quite delicious so, solely due to this fact, I will not be awarding Sandalsilver a thumbs down.

******

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[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

I agree with HDS1963 – I don't understand all the recent negative reviews. Pasha is my current favourite Cartier scent – it's fresh, classy and quite substantial. I'm not really a big fan of green scents but this one is very well composed, while possessing an aura of mystique and sensuality.

Pasha is more suitable for mature men and I'm not sure if I'd be able to pull it off at my current tender age but, one day soon, I may decide to take the plunge.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

I agree with JaimeB – Eau de Lierre is a significant improvement on Virgilio. It’s a very pleasant peppery-green affair that doesn’t possess so many sharp edges (nor smells dated). Although it does contain a mild floral accord, it does come across as more masculine than unisex. Unfortunately, the drydown (which I do enjoy) reminds me of one of the many fresh (and green) Creeds currently available.

A thumbs-up, regardless.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

Contrary to expectations, Serge Noire is definitely no strict variation on either Gris Clair or Encens et Lavande.

It's a very dry, woody and ashy composition with almost no sweetness whatsoever – the scent certainly does conjure up shades of black and greyish brown. If I had to choose another Lutens creation that could be paired with Serge Noire, it would probably be Chene – both of them are quite unorthodox and uncompromising woody scents.

However, although it's probably one of his most challenging releases for quite some time, there is still some déjà vu about Serge Noire. At first it wasn’t obvious but now it most certainly is – Serge Noire is a darker, richer and moodier version of Gucci pour Homme. Also, the pencil shavings association is still there but far more subtle, with the incense brought more to the fore.

Why it’s taken ten years to create this is still beyond me, but I’ll award it a thumbs up just because it’s their best release within the last two or three years.

[Original submission date: 26 September 2008]

Promoted as a fresh-floral, Ma Dame is anything but this. Yes, it’s largely a floral affair but it’s certainly not fresh (although I will admit that it’s also not as heavy as Gaultier’s previous high-profile releases).

The opening is a fizzy (but slightly muted) acidic orange accord but this disappears within a matter of seconds – personally, the fleeting opening was the only evidence of freshness here. The emergence of the sweet floral notes (listed as rose and grenadine but I could hardly detect any rose) come across as unashamedly synthetic, while the cedar gradually emerges and blends with the florals during its development. Even though the cedar becomes more prominent during the drydown, by this point, I couldn’t escape the feeling that it had transformed into an even bigger mess than at the beginning.

Ma Dame is far less ‘innovative’ and provocative than previous releases, and actually reminds me of a toned down Gaultier2. It also lacks the androgyny of its predecessors, smelling more girlie and plasticky than originally expected. Ma Dame is nothing earth shattering and I’m sure there are dozens of similar floral scents (regardless of how synthetic they are) capable of providing a more satisfactory result.

[Original submission date: 26 September 2008]

For the last couple of years, I found it very difficult to understand Daim Blond. Looking back now, I was probably expecting something typically Luten-esque, while hoping for a leather fragrance that worked exceedingly well with my skin chemistry. Unfortunately, it wasn’t as heavy as many of the previous Serge Lutens creations, and nor was it the leather scent that I was looking for (but since then, I’ve now concluded that prominent leather scents rarely work on my skin). Also, the reviews on various websites didn’t help matters either – they largely confirmed what I, at the time, considered to be a disappointing release.

For quite a while, Daim Blond remained one of the ‘also-rans’ from this house but I, occasionally, found myself compelled to test it from time to time. Indeed the apricot kernel, iris and leather notes were no less inviting but still not quite full bottle-worthy. And then something happened without any warning – its enigma suddenly dissipated and, after a long struggle trying to understanding it, its true nature finally revealed itself to me…

The problem is that Daim Blond is widely misunderstood and, as a result, has received too many lukewarm reviews over the years. Perceiving this creation as a dominant leather scent will only court disappointment. It isn’t really a take on leather but actually a take on suede and this is an important fact that should be acknowledged. In addition, based on the notes, I will go out on a limb here and proclaim that it is not a dominant suede scent either. Although its softness is partly due to the suede note, many tend to overlook the fact that musk is one of its main notes. Based on how it performs out of the bottle, I would say that it is, essentially, a fruity-musk scent with a hint of suede. I believe that if the wearer approaches Daim Blond in this way, they will fully appreciate it for what it is.

I still consider it too soft to wear in public and find its sillage to be too subtle for such occasions (but, then again, I’ve never been terribly enthusiastic about musk scents). However, after further musings, I’ve come to the conclusion that it would be an excellent fragrance to wear either during intimate moments or as a bedtime scent. Many have sung the praises of Musc Ravageur and consider it to be very much appropriate for the aforementioned situations – I consider Daim Blond to be a superior alternative (and with far better longevity). While Musc Ravageur half-convincingly hints at naughty quickies in a nearby cul-de-sac, Daim Blond conjures up vivid images of tender (and yet profound) love-making between freshly laid silk sheets. For me, it’s sexy but in a completely different way. But, then again, this all comes down to personal taste.

So, with this in mind, I urge you to approach Daim Blond once again – both from a completely different perspective and without the prejudice formed by previous reviews.

[Original submission date: 30 July 2008]

Initially, Pulp was my favourite scent from this house but now it’s probably my least.

The opening was utterly superb – a succulent, rich and juicy fruit opening that smelt very natural and fresh. The sweetness was just right, and the bergamot and blackcurrant notes were full-bodied, dense and delicious. Although it smelt somewhat feminine, I still felt it could be worn (and enjoyed) by men who are very comfortable with their sexuality.

With such a promising opening, one would have expected the drydown to be amazing. But it wasn’t…

Now, maybe the opening was cleverly deceptive (a deliberate ploy?) but the drydown smelt extremely synthetic and was very unpleasant to wear – the complete opposite of the opening. At times, I was hoping that its development would get back on track but it never did – it just stagnated, leaving nothing but a cheap smelling pot-porri scent lingering on my skin. Maybe it just didn’t agree with my skin chemistry or possibly it was the peach flower note that ruined it – I’m still not too sure even now. Regardless of this, I have to admit that this is the first time I’ve been so ‘seduced’ by a fragrance only to be so utterly repelled by it within a matter of hours.

Byredo has, unfortunately, failed to live up to my expectations and Pulp is most certainly not an exception to their other releases. In addition to its main flaw, it also lacks sufficient staying power (4-6 hours) – for both for its retail price and EDP concentration, I would have expected more. This is one house I will definitely not be investigating again in future.

[Original submission date: 28 July 2008]

After all the waiting and anticipation for this one, I was bitterly disappointed.

I still get the 'make-up bag' accord but less so, which I'm still finding hard to get past (but then again I was never a big iris fan). Also, I don’t get much longevity from this (sillage is okay but almost as subtle as the original version) – within an hour, I couldn't detect much on my wrist.

Apart from a woodier drydown, it's not that much different from the original – in other words, it could easily be mistaken for the original version. It's a slight improvement but it still wasn’t good enough for me.

[Original submission date: 22 July 2008]

I originally decided to visit the Guerlain boutique, in order to investigate this, based on the recommendation of a fellow Basenoter. My first impression was a faint vanilla and rum scent that underwhelmed me – I was expecting it to be much stronger. Undeterred, I proceeded to apply four spritzes to my body – one either side of my neck and another two to my chest (under my shirt). I then left the store and continued shopping elsewhere.

For the first hour, I wasn't really detecting that much but, when I did, I smelt some similarities to Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé. I continued testing other fragrances elsewhere and eventually went home. At this point, I had more or less written off Spiritueuse Double Vanille for being too subtle to my nose (much like Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé) and forgot about purchasing a bottle.

And then a funny thing happened: throughout the day, I could smell this heavenly aroma around me. At first, I thought it was another fragrance that I tested on my wrist but I eventually came to the conclusion that this wasn’t the case. I then forgot about it and had a siesta. During the periods when I was awake, I could still detect this enveloping aroma – much to the point where it was driving me crazy not knowing which scent it was. It was just so warm and extremely sexy!

After waking up, the aroma was still there. I then decided to have a shower and removed my shirt. As soon as I did this, I realised the scent was on my shirt as well and instantly knew that the heavenly scent had to be Spiritueuse Double Vanille. I was absolutely amazed! There was even a faint trace of it in the apartment for several hours. Out of curiosity, I decided to wear the same shirt again, when bumming around the apartment the following day. The scent was still evident and I knew then that I had to buy a bottle of this elixir at the next available opportunity.

A couple of days later, I returned to the Guerlain boutique, tested the juice again and, sure enough, the same scent that had captivated me for the last two days was in that very bottle. I swiftly located one of the SAs and told her I wanted to purchase a bottle, whipped out my debit card, paid and left with a big smile on my face.

However, soon after returning to London, I found myself in a conundrum – I now had two vanilla scents in a wardrobe where everything else was unique and distinctive. The other vanilla scent I owned was Givenchy's Pi EDP (also a limited edition and now very rare). After some deliberation, I decided to pit them against each other by spraying one on either arm before going to bed. Up until now, Pi EDP had been the best vanilla scent I had ever come across. However, when compared to Spiritueuse Double Vanille, it completely paled in comparison – it just came across as synthetic and flat.

When I woke up, Spiritueuse Double Vanille was still evident on my arm and stayed that way for a good 12 hours (it probably would have been more had I not been tossing and turning). As for Pi, it had more or less disappeared from my skin. As a result, it was pretty obvious my bottle of Pi had to go. My all-time favourite vanilla fragrance trumped with panache? I just couldn’t believe it!

Spiritueuse Double Vanille is a very Luten-esque scent that is worthy of the title of possibly the best Guerlain release for the last 80 years. This is certainly not an overstatement and I urge you to investigate this olfactory miracle at the soonest opportunity. $200 may be a lot of money for a 75ml vanilla scent but, believe me when I say that this is THE BEST vanilla scent ever made. It is sheer heaven and only gets better as it develops further on the skin.

It’s an amazing creation.

[Original submission date: 21 July 2008]

This one reminds me of Ava Luxe's Crème Brûlée but is more complex and better composed, with a perfectly balanced sweetness. It's also more superior (and more grown-up) than the other gourmands of this category (Lolita Empicka, A*Men, Rochas Man, etc.). However, while I love the composition of this over, say, Serge Lutens’ Douce Amère, its lasting power is disappointing to say the least.

Personally, this should have been released as an EDP. I'm very much hoping that Aomassai will, one day, be made part of the private collection (which consists only of EDPs) – a fate that was granted to Querelle.

[Original submission date: 11 July 2008]

I really can't stand the majority of Jean-Claude Ellena's creations – they're so ethereal and transparent that they're more appropriate for admiring, like a piece of abstract art, than actually wearing (let alone investing in). There’s also no sense of practicality to his ideas and I often get the feeling that both skin chemistry and the general performance of a perfume on the skin is never his main concern (well, unless he assumes that his clientele is highly affluent and live in air-conditioned environments 24/7… which is highly probable).

Eau Parfumée au Thé Verte is one of his better releases and, at the time, was a groundbreaking creation. It's a pleasantly fresh green tea scent, with some citrus notes lurking in the composition, but it never succeeds in winning me over. The longevity is quite abysmal as well.

Just like Eau d'Orange Verte, skip this one and go for the ‘intense’ version (Eau Parfumée au Thé Verte Extreme). Well, that's unless you have money to burn like his highly affluent clientele…

[Original submission date: 07 August 2008]

Oud Wood is really nothing special. What’s really interesting, though, is how both the concept and name are quite cunning – after all, oud is essentially... well, wood. Therefore, while the name gives the impression of a possible oud-fest, the reality is simply a woody fragrance with traces of oud present. Hmmm...

If you're after a decent oud fragrance (as opposed to a genuine oud oil) investigate the Montale aoud line instead – it's much better value for money too.

[Original submission date: 06 August 2008]

Reminiscent of a slew of gourmand coffee scents – not particularly original or long lasting. Also, the flacon design is probably one of the biggest marketing (and PC) cock-ups in recent history…

[Original submission date: 06 August 2008]

There doesn’t seem to be any notes listed for this one but there is definitely an ashy note, which would lead me to conclude that lavender may be one of the main notes in the composition. Some have stated that it smells too feminine but I tend to disagree – it’s very much a unisex scent.

The interesting thing about White China is that it smells greyer than the name (or even the colour of the juice) implies. It also reminds me, somewhat, of Patou pour Homme Privé. Unfortunately, it’s hard for me to compare the two (for obvious reasons) but it’d be interesting if someone was able to make a side-by-side comparison and report their findings. Anyway, for now, I wouldn't conclude they're exactly the same but I can detect some obvious parallels – to jump to such conclusions would be foolish in itself.

China White is very much in the same category as Silver Musk – a composition with clean and slightly metallic accords. Once again, longevity is disappointing for a parfum extrait. I have yet to come across a Nasomatto that is worthy of its expensive price tag.

[Original submission date: 06 July 2008]

There’s not much that I can add that hasn’t already been mentioned but Heritage is one of the best classy / formal fragrances currently on the market. It successfully merges the best of both the modern and traditional (or classic) worlds of perfumery – an amazing achievement.

It's far superior to Bois du Portugal (too dated) and Boucheron pour Homme (too sophisticated and not versatile enough). Just make sure you get the EDP version (if you can get it) – it’s deeper, richer and longer lasting than the EDT (but less 'bright' in the opening).

An absolute classic.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

Reading the reviews below, I can understand the enthusiasm for this very interesting creation. However, as another Basenoter previously mentioned, on the forum, it does have certain similarities to Kouros. I wouldn’t say they are exactly the same but I am finding myself drawing parallels between the two.

Where Kouros is honey sweet and in-your-face, Querelle is darker, dryer, and more subtle and sophisticated. Its darkness reminds me of Dior’s Eau Noire (but with the black caraway and vetiver replacing the immortelle, lavender and indian spices – in other words, not as ghastly) and, at a push, I would say that Querelle is almost a hybrid of these two.

Unfortunately, as I’m neither a big fan of Kouros or Eau Noire, I’ll have to pass.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

So, I took on board Vibert’s advice, about spraying liberally, and spritzed my arm at least a dozen times but Jubilation XXV hardly produced much sillage. Its longevity was admirable and most of the notes were detectable but I was still left underwhelmed. In addition, it occasionally reminded of something that I tested months ago but can no longer recall what it was.

Jubilation XXV is great for fans of Richard James EDT or any of the men’s offerings by Creed, Ormonde Jayne and Divine but, for me, it was too understated and unoriginal to pay almost £150 for a 100ml bottle. I have no reservations about the quality of the composition but, for the high price tag, I want to be blown away – literally...

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

My second favourite from this line but that’s not saying a lot.

The problem is that the composition fails to say anything that hasn’t already been said before. It smells like many other green niche scents currently on the market – the notes indicate that this may not be the case but this is contrary to reality. The violet notes do make brief appearances, every once in a while, but this is simply not enough to differentiate itself from similar offerings.

If you’re looking for a quality green scent, you’d be better off trying Sisley’s excellent Eau de Champagne, or one of the many green offerings from both MPG and Diptyque.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

Bois du Portugal is definitely a sophisticated power scent that is warm, extremely rich and very masculine. It has pretty good sillage and very good longevity (but maybe not as much as previous reviews have made out, although it could easily last 6-8 hours). However, there’s something distinctly ‘80s about it that has prevented me from completely falling in love with it. Some would argue that it’s a timeless classic but, to a certain extent, I disagree – it's just okay.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Personally, I prefer Vetiver Tonka by Hermès over Vetiver Oriental. I really don't like powdery frags and this one's no exception.

While Vetiver Tonka comes across as better balanced and fresher, Vetiver Oriental seems very unsure of its identity – for winter or summer? Fresh or powdery? Warm oriental or fresh green? Feminine or unisex? Also, Vetiver Tonka possesses the confidence and panache that Vetiver Oriental lacks, with its notes more elegantly refined.

Vetiver Tonka is the confident adult who has many admirers trailing closely behind in awe; while Vetiver Oriental is the cute but insecure teenager, who continues to sit alone in a dark corner, muttering incoherently...

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

At first I wasn't sure what to think about this one. On first application, it came across as quite faint. I also noticed some similarities with Lonestar Memories, and initially deemed L’Air as a lighter version of Lonestar – how wrong I was! After re-applying, the differences became a lot more noticeable. L’Air also reminded me of the amber drydown of Piper Nigrum. However, while Piper Nigrum was slightly irritating for me to wear, L’Air was simply sensual and intoxicating.

The sweetness balances perfectly with the spices and is never overwhelming. As for sillage, it isn't loud but is definitely present. There's also something almost 'effervescent' about the spicy sweetness of L’Air that I really love – it just simmers on the skin very nicely. After several hours, the drydown blends perfectly with my skin chemistry in the most natural way. Amazing.

Personally, this is everything that Richard James should have been but wasn't (and a sore disappointment in all the main departments). L’Air is truly magnificent and is definitely in my top five.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

I really don’t get all the praise for this one. As for being sexy… well, there are certainly sexier scents out there.

During the opening, all I get are cloves and spices. This persists for the first 2-3 hours on my skin. However, a lovely transformation soon takes place, where it evolves into this delicious vanilla and cinnamon scent. Unfortunately, that’s really as good as it gets.

Firstly, its sillage and longevity isn’t as great as others have stated. On my skin, its sillage dies down quite considerably (especially within the first couple of hours) leaving a lingering skin scent that can only be detected close-up. Personally, I would have liked a lot more ‘throw’.

Secondly, I strongly sensed some déjà vu about the drydown. At first, I couldn’t put my finger on it and then, suddenly, it came to me – Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé! Yes, the drydown of Musc Ravageur smells almost identical to this Hermès creation. Of course, this was released first but, if I already owned Ambre Narguilé, I would certainly not need to own Musc Ravageur as well.

As for which one is better, I really have no personal preference (simply for the fact that neither of them have much longevity or sillage). However, if you don’t like the smell of cloves and want to go straight to the drydown, get Ambre Narguilé instead.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

“It’s a proper, old-fashioned heavy scent, redolent of evenings of gorgeousness, luxury, decadence and naughtiness.” (Theo Fennell)

A new fragrance house, a very attractive bottle, an EDP that’s claimed to be reminiscent of the powerhouse days, an emphasis on saffron – this was enough to get me excited. Unfortunately, while the saffron and floral opening was promising, the drydown reminded me of the multitude of generic oriental fragrances for women currently on the market. Other notes include patchouli, tonka bean / benzoin and sandalwood. It’s not a terrible scent but I certainly expected a lot more, based on the above statement.

As for longevity and sillage, it wasn’t anywhere near as strong as I was hoping. Within a couple of hours, I was left with a very subtle skin scent. Taking into account I sprayed my arm 4 or 5 times, this fragrance in no way lives up to Fennell’s statement (surprise, surprise).

A neutral only for the attractive bottle design and promising opening.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

In general, I love vanilla scents but I'm still not sure about this one. Initially, a burnt sugar note absolutely ruined it for me but I've since managed to overcome this main obstacle. However, now I sense there being TOO MUCH vanilla in the composition – so much that it sometimes feels like the actual composition is straining to hold itself together.

It's also very important to note that Un Bois Vanille is a completely linear scent. This would make a perfect (albeit expensive) scent for layering but, beyond this, it could prove to become very boring and tedious to wear over time.

Sillage is great but its longevity is not as powerful as you'd expect from this type of scent. However, regardless of its flaws, it's still one of the best (and genuine) vanilla scents out there.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

There’s one thing I’ve noticed about most newbie Basenoters – they usually tend to latch onto the ‘holy trinity’ of designer scents that, automatically, creates the perfect foundation for any man’s fragrance wardrobe: Le Mâle (cold weather), Envy for Men (special occasions and dates) and L’eau D’Issey (warm weather). Although these may not be the first three scents that a newbie Basenoter will purchase, chances are they will definitely be among their first 5-10 full-bottle purchases. I, myself, have been a victim of this ‘beginner’s crutch’ and it, admittedly, took me some time to bring myself to remove all three from my wardrobe without feeling even the slightest bit of remorse.

L’eau D’Issey was actually the final one that I managed to weed out. A good indication of its ‘superior’ quality compared to the other two, no? Well, not exactly – they’re all just as synthetic and flawed as each other. The fact is summer scents, with decent longevity, are incredibly difficult to come across (especially for those not in the know). Therefore, any reservations I had about L’eau D’Issey were put on hold due to its stronghold on my arsenal for warmer weather (which wasn’t particularly impressive back then). It was only after a period of time (during which I encountered better quality and longer lasting scents for spring and summer) that L’eau D’Issey eventually lost its grip and fully revealed itself for what it is – a highly synthetic and artificial smelling yuzu (grapefruit) composition with average lasting power.

From the very start, I always overlooked the fact that (upon application) it always made me sneeze; for a person who rarely suffers from migraines, for quite a while, I never questioned whether it was the sillage from L’eau D’Issey that was responsible for my subtle headaches; and I always found myself refusing to accept that its longevity wasn’t as great as originally thought (skin chemistry or olfactory fatigue were usually held accountable). Yes, the fear of not having something appropriate to wear on warm days worried me, and L’eau D’Issey successfully tapped into this fear and preyed upon it for quite some time. Now, luckily, those days are long gone…

L’eau D’Issey is a great starting point for any newbie but please bear in mind the hazards mentioned in the above paragraph. If nothing else, it does serve as a decent ‘starting out’ fragrance. Just don’t expect anything more from its shallowness, as your nose becomes more sophisticated, or you may end up being sorely disappointed.

[Original submission date: 20 May 2008]

Like Scentsibility, I have to award Cuiron a neutral rating, although I completely agree with the majority that it’s an amazing modern leather scent. Usually, leather scents and my skin chemistry (or is it my nose?) tend not to get on very well – as a result, newly discovered leather scents fail to ignite my enthusiasm and curiosity. With Cuiron, this has been a very pleasant exception to the rule (thanks to the addition of the dark plum note) – but only just.

While its longevity is excellent (12 hours easily) not much can be said for its sillage. Within 20-30 minutes, the only way to detect it on your skin is to bring your nose extremely close to the applied area (not always physically possible or convenient but…). Personally, I found Cuiron too quiet, too subtle and slightly boring in its performance – I needed more oomph in its projection (which, let’s face it, is almost non-existent).

At the moment, this discontinued gem is becoming increasingly harder to find (even on ebay). When I bought my bottle, I could have easily purchased another half a dozen bottles from the same source (and believe me, I was briefly tempted). Unfortunately, its almost silent nature left me terribly underwhelmed. After testing it out over several months, I eventually gave up and sold my bottle for a very nice profit.

If it’s ever re-released, I would really like it to be available in a much stronger concentration (ideally EDP form) – maybe only then I would consider re-investigating it. But for now, Cuiron’s simplicity is not only its main strength but also its Achilles heel.

[Original submission date: 20 May 2008]

A*Men Pure Coffee is definitely an improvement on the original A*Men – the birch tar note has all but disappeared, now replaced by a very agreeable coffee note. Unfortunately, during the drydown, the coffee note morphs from something pleasant and natural into something synthetic and slightly annoying.

This would probably be great for layering but, on its own, could become boring after a few wearings. Also, I don’t like the fact that it’s only available in 100ml rather than the two usual sizes (and what a huge flask it is). Sillage and longevity are pretty good.

[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

After all the hype, I was left feeling very disappointed. The opening notes are amazing but it all went quickly downhill from there. The composition has a classic barbershop feel to it but it lacks the longevity and sillage that everyone's been raving about. There's also something quintessentially English (or even old-fashioned) about it that simply doesn’t appeal to me. As a result, I found it impossible to find an emotional connection with No. 88 – maybe it’s the Victorian / colonial undertones that runs through the very heart of this creation but, then again, it could be because it’s too timid and apologetic for my tastes.

Personally, I prefer something stronger, more contemporary and with a greater sensual edge than No. 88, and I’ve managed to find all of these characteristics (and more) in Montale’s Black Aoud. They may not be exactly the same creations but they definitely work on a very similar premise.

[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

As others have already mentioned, skin chemistry plays a very important role here – wearing this could either be a pleasure or simply a nightmare. For me, there is something about 10 Corso Como that I just don't like. On my skin, it smells like cheap red wine (which is supposedly the plum note) – this sharp resinous accord takes ages to subside and irritates more than it intrigues. I did detect some oud but it wasn’t as evident as I had expected. As for the drydown, this was nothing more than a whisper of sandalwood with remnants of what went on before. Although its lasting power is okay, its sillage is below average.

10 Corso Como isn't a complete failure, though – more a sore disappointment. Definitely a case of try before you buy.

[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

Essentially a maple syrup and immortelle combo, Sables is a unique creation from the '80s that was way ahead of its time. I don't find sables as sweet as others have mentioned but, overlooking the degree of sweetness, the immortelle is the key ingredient here – it tones down the sweetness, provides Sables with its unique identity and enables the scent to last on the skin for a ridiculous number of hours.

Its longevity is amazing, period. However, its weak spot lies in the lack of projection as it stays very close to the skin. Maybe this was originally how Sables was intended to be worn. Comparisons have been made to Chergui and Eau Noire, to which I can see certain parallels (more so with Eau Noire’s use of immortelle, spices and vanilla) especially with regards to their exotic origins. However, out of the three, I much prefer Chergui.

[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

When I first wore Envy for Men, I thought it was a brilliant creation. However, since then, my tastes have developed and become more sophisticated.

Envy for Men now smells cheap, watered-down and unfinished – its longevity and sillage lasts less than an hour on my skin, which is pitiful. There have been rumours that Envy for Men has been reformulated, at least once since its launch, so I'd advise anyone to approach this lame spicy oriental with extreme caution.

[Original submission date: 11 April 2008]

This was a major discovery, during a recent trip to Paris. Apart from Eau de Campagne (which I was never completely sold on), I had no knowledge of any other Sisley fragrances. However, there was something about the bottle design that caught my eye – heavy, minimalistic and ever so tastefully formed. I grabbed the tester bottle and spritzed my arm. I was then met with this strong, sharp and dry citrus / juniper opening that completely enthralled me.

But it wasn’t only the opening that clicked with me – this fragrance also had a sense of sophistication, luxury and decadence. The drydown retained some of the citrus notes, becoming more herbal over time (with detectable traces of patchouli, moss and pepper). At first, this worried me as most greens normally don't work on my skin. However, Eau du Soir came up trumps, retaining its sparkling freshness as it developed more into a fresh chypre. I seriously couldn’t stop smelling my arm – it was that addictive!

Eau du Soir is a rich and complex fresh chypre, with floral notes that are quite subtle, and its longevity and sillage are excellent. It was only after falling in love with this gem that I discovered it is marketed for women. I would have to seriously disagree – it comes across as more unisex than feminine, especially with the floral notes so far in the background. Also, for a fragrance released in 1990, I’m amazed at how contemporary and modern it still smells. Initially, I assumed it had been released within the last five years, so you could imagine my surprise.

For those who love Creeds, some of the Ormonde Jayne offerings for men, or even Richard James will find Eau du Soir highly rewarding. As for negative points, the cap is an ugly piece of gold-sprayed plastic, imitating a sculpture – I immediately threw mine away.

It’s expensive stuff but definitely worth investigating. But don’t be afraid – it’s not as feminine as you might think.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

EDP review:

Great concept, beautiful bottle, and loved and worn by both men and women – I thought I couldn’t go wrong with this one. Unfortunately, it’s probably one of the most irritating fragrances I ever had the misfortune to wear. I really don’t know what it is (the saffron?) but, after a short period of time, I get a sour medicine-like note that completely ruins it for me.

A major disappointment.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

The first time I bought this was in Southern France with my (then) French girlfriend. I really wasn't too keen on it, but purchased it because she quite liked it. However, it never really grew on me. A few years later, I foolishly purchased another bottle of the stuff whilst in Madrid – I thought I'd give it another chance. Bad decision! How relieved I was when I finally managed to finish the bloody bottle...

The problem with this fragrance is that there's nothing special to make it stand out, among the myriad of fragrances currently on the market. To be honest, I preferred Eternity For Men than this. Oh, and the bottle design is so ugly!

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

This scent is utterly beautiful! I just love the opening citrus and mint blast so much. However, there is one slight problem – its longevity is rather pitiful.

And to think Sélection Verte had the potential to be one of my all-time favourites...

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I now know that I should avoid any frags consisting of kitchen herbs – I find they go weird on my skin within minutes (e.g. Little Italy). However, Virgilio makes things even worse by smelling pungent and extremely herbal (in a very '80s sort of way).

Yuck!

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Like Lux, this developed in a horrible way on my skin. However, unlike Lux, it remained pleasant for much longer.

I've never been one to state that fragrance X made me feel sick (or even gave me a headache) but, after applying Nuit Noire, it actually made me feel nauseous after a while (and eventually physically sick – quite literally).

I'll think I'll pass on this house.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

The only one from this house that I actually do like. However, I'm still undecided as to whether or not I can actually wear it – as much as I love vanilla, the baby powder accord may be too much for me to pull off. There's also a noticeable chemical note in the composition that I find unsettling.

Extremely potent stuff, though.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Smells like a combination of vinyl, burnt paper and rubber. I really can’t detect any leather in this but, then again, I never wore it long enough to fully appreciate the drydown.

It wasn’t because I hated it – I just preferred to concentrate on testing more conventional (and rewarding) scents.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

The only Divine fragrance that I absolutely love.

The fruity spiciness is bewitching, sophisticated and unique. The smoky incense in the drydown prevents it from verging too far into sweet territory. As for development, it’s one of the most interesting scents I’ve had the pleasure in following from the initial burst to the drydown – it constantly changed on the skin.

I’m still on the fence about its sillage and longevity, though – sometimes it feels like, for an EDP, there should be more presence but, then again, it could just be me. I also agree with foetidus that it could do with a little more drama or quirkiness to give it an extra edge.

However, regardless of its flaws, it truly is a wonderfully smooth and delicious creation.

[Original submission date: 29 December 2007]

Wow, you can’t get anymore accurate than this!

Engine oil, dust, concrete, paint fumes, metal and rubber can be detected. This is so avant-garde that there’s no way I can wear it myself but, conceptually, this is brilliant stuff.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Vettiveru is the best from this series but it's nowhere as good as my all-time favourite vetiver scent: Vétiver Extraordinaire.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

A short-lasting oriental with great sillage (at the beginning) but it lacks any distinction to make it rise above all the so-so fragrances of this ilk. In short, a cross between the boring oriental spiciness of Gucci’s Envy and the sickening sweetness of Joop! (but with far less longevity, of course).

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

This is probably the only ‘80s scent that I’ve seriously considered adding to my wardrobe.

The sweet floral-woody composition has aged far better than most of the men’s releases from the same decade. I find its sweetness quite alluring and never cloying, with the floral notes providing an almost berry-like presence during the drydown. Unfortunately, I haven’t really tested it enough to determine its longevity but its sillage is reasonably moderate. This is an extremely well-blended scent and more than deserves its classic status.

However, a part of me fears that I would easily get bored of this. Therefore, with the smallest bottle being 125ml, I’m still on the fence about purchasing it. However, I’m still giving it a thumbs up because it’s such a wonderful and unique ‘80s release.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

EDP review:

I’m not a great fan of Ava Luxe fragrances, in general, and this one is no exception. Like most of her other creations, the composition comes across as flat, muddy, synthetic and totally uninspiring.

This house, to me, is very much a ‘girlie’ house (a la Body Shop) and should, like other houses of this ilk, be approached with extreme caution. Also, there’s something very amateurish about most of her creations that prevents me from giving Ava Luxe the full respect that I usually award most niche houses.

The only good thing about this house is their prices. But, then again, you definitely get what you pay for here.

Want something playful but not too serious? Want something for layering? Then investigate Ava Luxe. However, if you’re really serious about fragrances and expect high-quality compositions, please investigate elsewhere.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

EDP review:

A terribly synthetic smelling woody-incense scent.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

One of the cheapest and tackiest designer fragrances I’ve ever come across (and even the packaging is just as bad). Cavalli Man lacks any distinction from the myriad of fresh wishy-washy fragrances out there and, most importantly of all, lacks decent longevity.

It’s not the worst fragrance I’ve ever tried but it definitely lacks any sense of originality or inspiration. The only positive point I can make is that the official sample is quite generous (7ml!). Apart from that, this one is best left on the retail shelves (or in bargain bins) to gather dust.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

If you don’t want to smell like rotting vegetables or disposal waste then stay well clear of this one. It's possibly one of the worse fragrances I have ever had the misfortune of smelling.

The bottle’s extremely dull and the scent is simply putrid – this is certainly one fragrance that deserves to be discontinued.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

The main problem with Antico Caruso is that there’s too much déjà vu about it. The opening notes reminded me of Douce Amere (or even Lolita Lempicka au Masculin), while the drydown kept on alternating between the aroma of Le Male and Body Kouros. Quite a lovely fragrance to wear but, based on its lack of uniqueness, I'll have to pass on this one.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I was really looking forward to trying this one, as I love sandalwood. Unfortunately, I only sensed this during the drydown (and it’s not as prominent as I was expecting). Hours before the sandalwood vaguely emerged, I had to endure these sharp and harsh medicinal notes (probably the myrrh). Just as previous reviews have mentioned, more sandalwood and spices would have been so much better.

The price tag is totally unjustifiable as well.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Wow, I really love this one!

I’ve tried many dominant amber scents, in the past, but have always found them to be too resinous and harsh (Ambre Sultan being the worse offender). However, Blue Amber isn’t like that at all (much to my relief). The opening blast is intoxicating and it only gets better. The drydown is creamy and extremely sexy, and it didn’t take me long to deem it as bottle worthy. Sillage and longevity is superb, and I’m now completely in awe with this house. This has to be one of the best releases in recent years.

Two thumbs up!

******

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[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

At first, it smells promising. However, there's something petroleum-like in the drydown that I simply can't stand. Also, its powderiness irritates me as well.

A completely over-hyped leather fragrance.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

It's certainly not the best loukoum fragrance out there, unfortunately. For a better alternative, try Keiko Mecheri's Loukhoum or Montale's Sweet Oriental Dream.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

A classic citrus scent for summer, with great sillage. My only complaint is that it's very short-lived.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

My least favourite from the Blu Mediterraneo line. But then again, herbal scents are not really my thing. However, it could have been a lot worse (think Virgilio).

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Urgggh! What the hell is this?! Where’s the almond? Where’s the vanilla? This just smells so synthetic and Play-Dohish, with very little sweetness. After a couple of hours, it does develop into something slightly promising but it’s still not enough to make me want to persevere.

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

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[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

After all the hype surrounding this series, I decided to give Kyoto a go (primarily due to it being the most popular of the Incense line and NOT because of Ricky Martin). On first application, I smelt almost nothing at all. However, based on advice from a fellow Basenoter, this was something I was expecting.

It wasn’t until the second application that I actually smelt something on my skin. However, all I could detect was something synthetically green – I could hardly pick out any incense in this at all. Its sillage was pretty good and its longevity better than I had originally expected but, at the end of the day, Kyoto came across as too soapy clean for me. It’s a very pleasant scent but it miserably failed to overwhelm me.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

One of my favourite Serge Lutens. A very unique, dry and smoky masterpiece that is indeed intoxicating. The initial blast is somewhat medicinal but, with just a little patience, its charm soon emerges from its complex notes. Ideal for cooler weather and one of the few SLs that is definitely bottle worthy.

UPDATE:

I'm changing my rating from a thumbs-up to a neutral as, for some strange reason, it fails to last on my skin for more than a couple of hours.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Unisex?! Yeah, right! This is too feminine and far too sweet, even for my tastes. As much as I love vanilla fragrances, I don’t want to smell like fruity bubblegum in the process.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

As much as I wanted to like Déclaration, it had a habit of going weird on my skin – there were unpleasant notes that suddenly reared their ugly heads. Not a pleasant experience at all.

In a nutshell, it smells like a Bvlgari but it doesn’t work well with my skin chemistry.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Yes, this one definitely smells like lipstick or a make-up bag…

Yes, based on the above association, it does smells very feminine…

Yes, the bottle is pretty cool…

Yes, Christian Dior was one of my favourite fragrance houses too…

No, I’m not too fond of this one either…

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

This is my favourite out of the three.

Its longevity is definitely on par with most quality EDT fragrances although, as some have already mentioned, it comes across as a little too soft for my liking. Its sweet and buttery combination of honey, myrrh, patchouli, iris, leather, incense and musk creates a scent that is both delicious and sensual (but never cloying).

However, there are a couple of reservations about these colognes that I need to ‘get off my chest’:

1) Like the Cuiron bottle, it would have been better if the label was laminated – after frequent use, the soiled label just ruins the bottle’s overall appearance.

2) The inside of the fabric bag (for the spray attachment) isn’t lined. Therefore fine strands of fabric have shed onto the spray attachment itself. This is an awful design flaw and I’d advise anyone, who purchases any of the Dior colognes, to thoroughly rinse their spray attachments before screwing it onto the bottle. You’ll get a nasty surprise if you don’t!

A more intense version would have been pure perfection.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I liked it at first but then grew tired of it pretty quickly. However, I do feel that the EdP is the way to go. It's a very synthetic floral scent but still noteworthy.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

What a great disappointment this one was! I've never been a big fan of Bond No. 9 fragrances but had hoped Chinatown would be the exception.

However, not only didn't it work well with my body chemistry (this is the only house where I’ve constantly experienced this) but it was a tad too feminine for my tastes. Also, sillage is way below average and its longevity is not as great as many have stated. As for the apricot note, it failed to add any real edge to what is already a mediocre fragrance.

Well, that’s one less fragrance house to worry about...

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Hmmm, I smell more fruity sweetness in this than actual leather...

Even though Cuir Mauresque makes a respectable nod towards Tabac Blond, it's still a disappointment.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

One of the best citrus scents I've come across but its longevity is almost non-existent.

Such a pity...

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I’m still not too sure when’s the best situation to wear this...

It was Bois Farine that originally drew me into the world of niche fragrances and, months later, I still love it for its uniqueness.

Probably best worn for intimate situations (or even as a comfort scent), its warm, woody and creamy nuttiness is sublime.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Another vetiver hater converted, thanks to Vétiver Extraordinaire. However, it did take me a while to appreciate it for what it is. Now, it’s one of the first things I reach for during the warmer months. Fresh, moderate sillage and great longevity.

This is the only Frederic Malle frag that I really love.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Yep, this is exactly what I’ve been looking for!

For those who are looking for a potent Montale oud that places less emphasis on the floral notes, this is the one to get. Personally, I get more oud than lime or citrus but that suits me fine. I find it less cluttered and fresher than most of the other Montale ouds, making this one a great candidate for hot weather (although I’m sure it’s great to wear during cooler months too).

This is definitely bottle-worthy and is now among my top three favourite Montale ouds.

******

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[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

One of the best from the aoud line.

As for all those comparisons to No. 88 by Czech & Speake, these two fragrances are completely different beasts. While No. 88 is an old-fashioned and gentlemanly rose scent, Black Aoud is a ‘take no prisoners’ rose and aoud combo that smells both contemporary and timeless at the same time. Black Aoud also possesses far better longevity and sillage than No. 88 (which disappointed me greatly in these departments). Both are scents of great quality but they are definitely not similar to each other.

However, for those who are not used to wearing oud may, initially, have a shock (and some may not even ‘get it’). For those who find themselves in this situation, it’d be best to test Black Aoud at least half a dozen times before coming to any firm conclusion. The difference between Western and Middle Eastern perfumery is immense and, therefore, one should allow adequate time for olfactory re-conditioning – the potential reward for such perseverance is definitely worthwhile.

Although Black Aoud is an oddity, among the Western perfumes in my wardrobe, I dearly cherish its unrivalled quality and uniqueness.

A classic.

******

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[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Smells exactly like Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue. Not a good thing...

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

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[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

For all the hype, this is a disappointing (and very short-lived) fragrance. It’s certainly masculine but in a run-of-the-mill sort of way. If you love subtle scents, which require constant re-application, this one may be for you.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

The only one from this house that I’ve failed to warm up to. It comes across as a lazy hybrid of Le Baiser du Dragon and Eau du Soir.

The bottle design is tacky and disappointing as well.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

A mellow, soft and warm cinnamon scent that is closer to Claude Ellena’s compositions more than any archetypal Serge Lutens offering. If the composition had more twists and turns (as well as a greater presence) I probably would have considered buying a bottle.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I was really hoping to love this one but, alas, this is not the case. I admire Hypnotic Poison but have problems detecting it on my skin after 30 minutes, so I considered this to be an ideal alternative. Unfortunately, after applying, all I smell is marzipan and that’s not what I want to smell like in public.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

My favourite lavender scent.

Its crisp and sharp accords make this perfectly suitable for the warmer months (if worn during cooler weather, it’ll fail to fully bloom). Gris Clair is fresh, unapologetically dense and possesses plenty of charisma – at no point does it ever develop into generic blandness.

It’s a superb summer staple for anyone’s wardrobe.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Wow! This stuff is simply amazing!

Santal de Mysore is possibly my number one favourite Lutens creation. It’s a sandalwood scent that satisfies more than any other sandalwood fragrance I’ve tried so far. Its notes of Mysore sandalwood, cumin, spices and caramelized benzoin contributes towards creating one hell of a heady, sensual and creamy elixir that never fails to enthrall with each wearing.

The sandalwood is always present, with hints of caramel and a coconut-like accord lurking in the background. It never drys down to something ambery or vanillic but keeps its sandalwood aura through to the very end. One of the main characteristics of pure sandalwood oil, when applied to the skin, is short-longevity. However, the fact that the sandalwood note lingers throughout its entire development is a testament to the sheer genius of Christopher Sheldrake. As always, sillage and longevity are excellent.

Santal de Mysore is a unique and highly complex scent. As for it being part of the exclusive line, I’d actually prefer it if Santal de Mysore remained there – it’s one scent that shouldn’t be taken for granted but, instead, remain highly revered and sought after.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

A dirty green rose scent that, as always, is composed to Serge Lutens’ usual high standards. Initially, I came to the conclusion that it was too green and dark for my tastes. However, my patience was rewarded in the drydown when the scent developed into a true rose scent that smells very much fresh and alive.

I’m still on the fence, regarding whether or not it’s something I care to own, but it’s a scent I definitely admire.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

A heady, thick and beautiful jasmine scent.

Out of all of the more feminine Lutens scents, this one is my favourite. On a man, this would smell both divine and very androgynous. However, I’m not too sure if I’d be able to pull it off myself.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Urgggh! This one’s too synthetic for my tastes. It attempts to smell like a fresh green but fails miserably.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Has Cacharel ever released a decent, high-quality fragrance? I’m sorry but this one smells awfully dated and pungent – maybe it’s the aldehydes but I most certainly dislike it. The bottle (or is it can?) is extremely tacky as well.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

It was probably reformulated years ago so, if it was, I can understand why I don’t like this (while others praise it). It’s far too soft and fleeting for me to appreciate, and the cinnamon barely registers. I’ve tried to discover the appeal but to no avail. It’s a lame and underwhelming fragrance that must have been watered down at some point by Cacharel. Taking into account that this was released in the ‘80s, there’s a very high possibility it was.

Zero points.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I was really expecting something deeper and richer than the original. Instead, all I got was the original Vetiver but with an even stronger soapy smell to it!

Pass.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

The comparisons to YSL’s Opium are pretty much true. However, this one just doesn’t work with my skin chemistry – it quickly turns into something very ‘off’ and unpleasant.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I have to agree with calchic – all the scents by Costume National have failed to live up to my expectations and this one’s no different. A very feminine floral fragrance, its main downfall is the same as the rest of the fragrances from this house: a dull drydown.

Nothing to get your knickers in a twist about.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

The opening’s too boozy for my tastes, with the amber drydown being far too subtle on my skin. Admittedly, it’s a high-quality creation but it's certainly not for me.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I may not be the biggest admirer of this house but this is one major cop-out!

It’s totally boring and generic, and goes against everything that this house once stood for (even though their other scents weren’t to my tastes).

If you like your scents challenging and distinctive, avoid!

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

A lovely gourmand that oozes sex appeal. I find the caramel creaminess of this easier to wear and admire than the harsh and unpleasant A*Men. Unfortunately, it very quickly stays too close to the skin and its longevity is not as good as it could (and should) be.

Rochas Man is still worth investigating, though.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

If given the choice, I’d choose Isfarkand over this any day. It’s a pleasant, although short-lived, scent that lacks the necessary qualities to sustain any personal interest. It’s well constructed but, for the hefty price, I expected much more than that.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

This one is so well blended that picking out the notes is quite difficult. Its quality and uniqueness is certainly worth all the praise here. However, I didn’t find it as modern or timeless as others have pointed out. There’s definitely an ‘80s vibe going on in the composition that’s very obvious to my nose – for a fragrance released in 1994, this was something I really wasn’t expecting. That’s not to say it’s a bad thing, though.

Due to its rarity, this review is based solely on a sample I was given by a generous Basenoter, so please take this review with a pinch of salt. If I owned a bottle, I’m sure a couple of spritzes of this on my skin would reveal more facets to me that, for the time being, continue to elude me.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

After trying various Montales and pure oud oils, I can confidently say that this is in no way a decent oud fragrance – it’s just too synthetic and rancid beyond belief.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

At first, this smelt promising before the associations with Dior’s Addict sprang to mind (along with Angel, Scent Intense, etc.). For such an expensive (and exclusive) fragrance, you’d expect a lot more originality than that. The bottle’s the only great thing about this scent and not even that’s worth the high price tag.

Dior’s Addict may smell somewhat synthetic, in comparison, but at least it’s better value for money.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Whenever I decide to go out in public, I always ensure that I have a shower before leaving the house (as everyone should). I don’t need to remind myself that I’m soapy clean, thank you very much (not that it lasts long on my skin, anyway).

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

This rose, suede and herbal composition is truly amazing – it smells both classic and contemporary at the same time. A very formal and classy fragrance that I would have dearly loved to add to my wardrobe.

So, what’s the problem? Well, after 30 minutes or so, I could hardly smell a thing. After a couple of hours, I couldn't smell anything at all! Forum posts have stated that this may be due to olfactory fatigue but, personally, I severely doubt it.

If it wasn’t for sillage and longevity issues, this would have been a sure addition to my wardrobe.

Please, please bring out an EDP version!

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

A rather sweet amber scent that strongly reminds me of Ambre Sultan but without the (sometimes annoying) herbal resinous undertones. It has pretty good longevity but fails to tackle the amber scent concept from a totally unique angle (which is, after all, what you’d expect for its hefty price tag).

There are currently many good amber scents on the market and I’m sure that one can be had for less than half the price of this.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

It started off promising enough, with a very spicy opening and no indication of which direction the composition would go. This was something I really liked and was eagerly expecting to be impressed. Unfortunately, it evolved into a boring (and almost clean) scent, with faint traces of pepper, woods and patchouli still being detectable.

All those references to perfumed soap were spot on…

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

I’ve never been a fan of fragrances by Hugo Boss but this one’s okay. It’s sweet and spicy but still nothing special to my nose. Also, it doesn’t smell as synthetic as other offerings from this house but, to a certain degree, it’s still apparent.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

As others have mentioned, there’s something unoriginal about this composition – it reminds me of various fragrances all at once. Still, it would have been a pleasant vanilla based scent if the frangipani note wasn’t so dominant – so much that I found the entire composition quite off-putting.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

A vile, severely out-dated ‘80s fragrance that has no redeeming qualities whatsoever. No wonder Boots is desperately trying to shift this stuff for £9.99.

Me, I’ve got better things to spend a tenner on...

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

In comparison to L'Oranger Neroli, I have to say that it's definitely not the same composition. I found it sweeter but not as dark and dense as the original EDP. Longevity and sillage was okay but not as strong. However, the extra notes (including plum and sandalwood) made it more compelling to my nose, albeit a tad more feminine.

In terms of which one is superior, I think it all comes down to individual tastes.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Carnation is, for me, the best offering from the Mona di Orio line. This is a dirty and yet delicate floral that I’m sure would smell gorgeous on the right person. Unfortunately, this is one feminine scent I can’t honestly see myself pulling off.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Another pointless creation from this over-rated house.

At first it smelt like Play-Doh, which initially put me off. However, into the drydown, the creamy amber eventually emerged (with the unpleasant opening smell almost a faded memory) and flourished. But, once again, it just smelt anemic like most of their other creations.

There are better, richer and more complex amber scents to choose from.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Yes, I found this one to be a dull floral as well. Like L’Artisan, Penhaligon's stated concentrations should be taken with a pinch of salt…

[Original submission date: 01 March 2009]

Geir is a fragrance that’s been hyped so much it’s inevitable some will be sorely disappointed with it. I was, initially, but it didn’t take me long to appreciate it on my own terms. It's invigoratingly fresh and extremely pleasant to wear, and it’s also very versatile. All those references to meadows and mountain air are, to some extent true, but there’s also a vanillic sweetness that one should be prepared for.

Even though Geir isn't a groundbreaking scent, it doesn't go out of its way to proclaim that it is. Its longevity is impressive and it’s almost impossible to over-apply. Also, although it’s ideal for wearing all year round, it’ll probably reveal its charms more during spring and autumn.

Geir's main flaw, however, is that it can smell too synthetic and clean at times, but it's still a pleasant (albeit safe) creation.

[Original submission date: 11 April 2008]

EDP review:

For some reason, Jaipur just doesn't work well on my skin. At first it smells too classy for regular use but then it goes a bit 'off' on me.

Definitely not my cup of tea...

[Original submission date: 11 April 2008]

It’s a very pleasant carnation fragrance but I fail to get much oud out of it. However, those who found Guerlain's Metallica / Metalys in need of a stronger carnation note should try this.

Even though Montale’s description claims that it’s spicy rather than floral, I still found it a tad too feminine.

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

http://www.basenotes.net/specials/montale.html

[Original submission date: 11 April 2008]

Ermmm… Where’s the wood?! All I’m getting here is a very watered down Gucci pour Homme with ozonic notes…

[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

EDT review:

I would agree with other reviewers that this is a quality scent that oozes class and sophistication. Unfortunately, the Lemon Pledge opening failed to impress me and the worse was yet to come. After several minutes, the lemon accord unapologetically turned on my skin. It took at least an hour for the fragrance to get back on track, at which point a sour sharpness began to emerge (reminding me of some cheap saccharine-infused citrus soft drink).

I have no idea if the EDP is any better (apart from having better longevity) but this is certainly one scent that I can very well do without.

[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

At first I really loved it and was amazed that I found a YSL fragrance I adored. However, after a couple of wears, I realised that it didn’t agree with my skin chemistry – it smelt a bit 'off' during the drydown.

Opium PH EDP shares some qualities with a typical Lutens scent (i.e. a rich, heavy and complex) but without the substantial sillage or longevity. Personally, I much prefer Arabie than this.

Also, I really do think that the bottle itself is in need of a serious revamp.

[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

Once the band-aid accord has all but gone, all that met my nose was a sharp nutty accord (somewhat reminiscent of Bois Farine but without the creaminess).

It doesn’t really develop that much. However, I’m still disappointed that a straightforward Cambodian oud scent could smell so soft and tame – I was expecting something as pungent and challenging as Aoud Cuir d’Arabie.

It’s nice to sniff every now and again but, for something closer to pure oud (and also with better longevity and sillage) Aoud Lime would be a much better alternative.

******

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[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

The tamest oud-rose combo in Montale's oud line. Personally, I would have preferred more presence and distinction. It's not even a patch on Black Aoud...

******

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[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

As much as I’ve found this line to be a revelation in itself (as well as the main reason for my recent interest in ouds) the differences between most of them are just too subtle. For example, is it really worth owning both Aoud Roses Petals and Black Aoud? If you’re expecting each fragrance in your wardrobe to be distinctive from the others then the answer will be ‘no’.

For me, Black Aoud contains more aoud (and is thus edgier) while Aoud Roses Petals has more… well, roses. It’s as simple as that! I’m sure many readers will strongly disagree and accuse me of being too simplistic here. However, at the end of the day, after the intense analysis of complex notes and waxing lyrical pretensions, the practicalities of life are impossible to avoid.

Fragrances serve a function – not only for the wearer (i.e. to smell good) but also for the people that the wearer comes into contact with. For the man or woman on the street, these two Montales come across as almost identical and that’s something that I’m not really prepared to waste my money on. No, I don’t wear fragrances to please (or attract) others but I would like people to immediately know that I’m wearing something very different from the last time they met me.

However, that’s not to say that either of these creations are bad – quite the contrary (I actually own, and much prefer, Black Aoud). The point I’m trying to make is that many fragrances from the aoud line simply remind me of the Serge Lutens Bois series – pretty much the same fragrance but with each one putting more emphasis on one particular note (or even with the odd extra note added or eliminated). I need more distinction from this line but, even though there are fine examples such as Aoud Cuir d’Arabie, this is not enough for me.

Anyway, I still look forward to future releases from this line with the hope that, one day, the differences between them will become much more distinctive.

******

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[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

A soft and subtle vanilla-based oud that, unfortunately, failed to impress. Personally, it’s too timid and sweet to be taken seriously.

A Montale aoud specifically designed for the Western palette…

******

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[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

Probably the worst Montale I've tried so far. No wonder these were being given away, as freebies, during the Montale sale...

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

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[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

The 'green' one from this line. There's really not much sillage or longevity, and it fails to offer anything unique for the hefty price tag. Honestly, the money would be much better spent on a bunch of high-quality (but reasonably priced) niche scents.

[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

The 'spicy' one from this line. There's really not much sillage or longevity, and it fails to offer anything unique for the hefty price tag. Honestly, the money would be much better spent on a Lorenzo Villoresi (and I'm not even a fan of this Italian house).

[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

The 'floriental' one from this line. I actually prefer this to the other two but it's still impossible to justify the high price tag. Its sillage and longevity remain underwhelming...

[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

One of the more subtle releases from Montale’s aoud line. As previous reviewers have stated, after applying to the skin, it takes a while for it to kick into action. Royal Aoud is a more understated and gentlemanly scent, as opposed to Black Aoud’s full-on offensive. It’s nice but too apologetic for me. Average sillage and longevity.

******

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[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

Its sillage and longevity is really impressive but that’s where all the praise stops, I’m afraid. I have to admit that the drydown can be at times lovely but, essentially, I have no desire to smell like a recently cleaned public toilet.

Oh, how this house despaired when those little pink urinal cakes blossomed and thrived in popularity…

[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

I’m not even going to waste my time writing a full review – it’s just cheap, synthetic, watered-down crap.

[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

This new Montale offering is very disappointing, as I was expecting something truly special from the name (as well as being a big vanilla fan). The vanilla here smells very thin, containing some irritating chemical note that I couldn't stand (possibly the tea note?).

It's really nothing special...

******

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[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

I completely agree with those who have accused this scent of being pretentious. This ‘minimalistic’ peppery scent really isn’t worth the retail price.

For a cheaper alternative, which is just as good (and with better sillage and longevity), try Gigli Man by Romeo Gigli – a 100ml bottle can be had for about £25 on ebay.

[Original submission date: 14 April 2008]

I really love the opening citrus and rose notes in this one. The only downside (and this is a serious one) is that it lacks any longevity.

[Original submission date: 15 April 2008]

The bottle is amazingly designed – the glossy chrome cover, which swivels away from the main body of the bottle (with the aid of a nifty hinge), is pretty ingenious. Also, the ergonomically contoured shape of the bottle (which often reminds me of a baton) with its dark-grey rubber cover is also very well-conceived. Unfortunately, that’s as good as it gets…

While it’s worth buying for the bottle alone, the juice is absolutely terrible – it’s simply an unnecessarily sweet, synthetic and short-lasting tea scent that irritates more with consecutive wears. Many have praised this one to high heaven (please see the reviews below). Personally, I’m still trying to figure out why this is the case.

This is simply another example of the bottle design being far better than its actual contents.

[Original submission date: 20 May 2008]

For all the praise that has been heaped upon this L’Occitane release, I really thought I couldn’t go wrong. Well, next time, I’ll know better because Neroli just didn’t work for me at all. After several attempts at wearing it, I failed to get the longevity that everyone else reported. In addition, the overall composition smelt musty and very old-fashioned on my skin.

I tried to love this stuff but to no avail – it just simply doesn't appeal to me and somehow feels both incomplete and 'hollow'. However, it’s definitely worth investigating this now discontinued release.

[Original submission date: 20 May 2008]

This is essentially a patchouli fragrance, with a dominant and slighty creamy barbersol accord. Personally, this really didn’t do much for me – it just reminded me of something that either my father or grandfather would have possibly been interested in.

But then again, I’ve never had much of an interest in the whole barbershop thing anyway…

[Original submission date: 20 May 2008]

Very much the same as the original but with tons more patchouli (and, therefore, better longevity). Once again, this didn’t tickle my fancy but I can certainly understand its appeal.

It's easily available in Paris.

[Original submission date: 20 May 2008]

At first, I really didn’t think much of this – a very soft vetiver, citrus and tobacco scent with a soapy drydown. However, I’m finding that I’m appreciating it more as I get older (or is it more to do with my sense of smell becoming more sophisticated?). Its longevity was, initially, disappointing but I’ve found it to improve both with consecutive wears and in warmer weather.

I still wouldn’t consider this to be the best vetiver scent on the market (for me, the title belongs to Malle’s Vétiver Extraordinaire). However, the fact that it’s transcended time without ever being considered outdated, makes Guerlain’s Vetiver a true perfume classic.

An excellent office scent for the warmer months.

[Original submission date: 21 May 2008]

Even though there’s more projection and longevity in Mazzolari Patchouly than the other fragrances I’ve tried from this house, I still could have done with a lot more oomph.

It most certainly is a great patchouli scent, with a sweet boozy amber accord to balance things out nicely. However, I’m left wondering if I’d be much better off with Montale’s Patchouli Leaves instead of this – the fact that Montale’s creation is easier to obtain, in EDP form and retails at a significantly lower price (in Paris, that is) doesn’t help matters.

It’s quite rare for me to appreciate Italian perfumery but this creation certainly deserves it. I just wish it had more strength and distinction.

[Original submission date: 20 May 2008]

This is most certainly an uplifting and floral vetiver, with a very pleasant creaminess. However, it’s far too soft for me and lacks the projection that I’m usually used to. Personally, I consider Montale’s Red Vetyver far superior – it’s least 20 times stronger (both in terms of longevity and projection) and with a tartness replacing the floral notes. Therefore, as lovely as this creation is, Red Vetyver makes it pretty much redundant in my book.

[Original submission date: 20 May 2008]

This is a fragrance that was of its time. Eternity for Men was the first ‘adult’ fragrance that I wore with pride, during my belt-tightening university years. From the first spray to the last few drops of the bottle, I absolutely loved the stuff and wore it with pride.

Even though it’s a fragrance I’ve long grown out of, whenever I smell it, memories of that period in my life never fail to spring to mind.

Ahhh, to be 19 again….

[Original submission date: 21 May 2008]

I really don't get the fascination with Terre d'Hermès. Granted, it's a unique composition but definitely nothing to get overly excited about. The whole rotten oranges and mineral combo is far too anemic for my tastes, and just leaves me wanting something more substantial.

This is yet another minimalist creation by Jean-Claude Ellena – a release that's deliberately aimed at tapping into the psyche of those who are gradually being brainwashed, by the mass media, into believing that smelling faintly like fabric softener is the way to go.

A neutral rating only due to its groundbreaking composition.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

EDP review:

This has to be one of the worst synthetic creations I've ever tried! There are no redeeming factors about this creation whatsoever.

His weakest release in the men's line.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Pencil shavings, pencil shavings, pencil shavings… Hmmmm…

Personally, Gucci pour Homme reminds me of the smell of those classrooms in my old Roman Catholic secondary school (but minus the bad smells, generated by pubescent schoolboys). Do you remember the smell of inside one of those old wooden school desks (the ones with the hinged tops which, when raised, revealed a storage area for all your exercise books)? Well, that’s what immediately springs to mind whenever I smell this.

For something more sensual and longer lasting, go for Rochas Lui instead.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

They should have simply called this one Hermèssence Rose Ikebana Intense / Extreme...

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Pretty much the same as the original but with more vanilla thrown into the mix. Apart from that, I don’t really detect much difference between this and the original (especially in the sillage and longevity department). For an EDP, I expected at least much more.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

I remember first discovering this at exactly the same time as Oyédo. The extremely attractive Parisian SA raved on about how it was her favourite scent and how she was wearing that day. Personally, I thought it was a herbal mess (and nowhere as wonderful as Oyédo).

I’m pretty sure that wearing me would have been far more interesting than her wearing this horrible orange concoction…

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Once again, Vibert is right on the money with his review.

I found Le Dandy to be a terribly anemic and boozy fruit cocktail, which failed to leave any lasting impression (well, during the extremely brief period that it was present on my skin). I have no idea what the original formulation smelt like but, based on its reputation, it must have been far better than this.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

The biggest disappointment from Montale’s aoud line.

Aoud Ambre is flat, boring and hardly detectable on the skin. I was hoping that something would happen during the drydown but, nope, I could only detect a faint ambery sweetness (with some tobacco) and not much oud. Its presence is so lame that, if you don’t remind yourself, you’ll eventually forget you’re actually wearing it!

Fornication in a can my arse!

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

http://www.basenotes.net/specials/montale.html

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Wow! The opening blast is truly amazing!

Comparisons to Chinatown were completely spot on – the peach blossom, ylang-ylang and tiare all present themselves almost at once (along with a strong but not too harsh oud note). It stays this way for several minutes before the vanilla rears its head. At this point, Velvet Aoud is extremely intoxicating and creamy, and a definite contender.

And then it all goes horribly wrong…

This once e sexy scent mutates into something very powdery and old-fashioned. It smells somewhat Dior-ish at this point but it’s also at this point when my heart sinks and I give up on it. By the time I’ve decided to sniff it again, faint traces of the previous notes linger against a sandalwood drydown. But the sandalwood is more of the dry variety than the creamy sandalwood I usually adore.

What was very promising, at the beginning, has now become somewhat of a disappointment.

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

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[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

I’ve long given up on finding a chocolate scent for my wardrobe and Chocolate Greedy’s not going to change that.

It starts off with a blast of dry, dark cocoa plus a wafer-like accord. After a few moments, a cake or biscuit dough mix emerges with some vanilla underlying the whole development. Credit should be given to Montale for anchoring the vanilla firmly in the background, while the cocoa notes continue to dominate (something that greatly hinders other chocolate scents). The dough mix accord, however, never completely disappears and this is its main dowwnfall. Some have said there’s a cardboard note during the drydown and I’m sure this originates from that very accord. At times it’s pleasant but other times it’s just downright irritating.

It’s not a sillage monster but seems to have very good longevity. There’s also a creaminess that occasionally presents itself but never sticks around long enough – I probably would have liked this more if it did. Too bad…

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

http://www.basenotes.net/specials/montale.html

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

EDT review:

I received a sample of this and wasn’t too enthusiastic about wearing it at first. After all, my previous experiences were not too pleasant. However, after testing it again, I ended up making a complete u-turn. While it’s still not one of my favourite vanilla fragrances, it certainly deserves some respect for what it is – a powdery citrus-vanilla-spice combo.

For an EDT, the indications of a quality composed scent are quite evident. The opening notes have the tendency to remind me of Beechams Lemon and Honey but, with some patience, this quickly subsides to allow the spices and vanilla to bloom. All the way through its development, the citrus note can still be faintly detected but even less as time passes. If worn on the wrong person (or even on the wrong day) this scent would probably be quite unpleasant to wear. However, the drydown is sublime with sillage that gently lingers for many hours. There’s also a resinous (some would say harsh) quality about it that gives Habit Rouge some edge.

When compared to other vanilla scents, from the last 20 years, Habit Rouge can easily be perceived as somewhat dated or old-school. To a certain extent, I would agree. However, while it may not possess the contemporary feel that many of its contemporaries have, its real strength lies in both its unique sophistication and gentlemanly appeal.

Habit Rouge may not be for me (although my opinion may change in a few years) but I’m sure there are many out there who love it (and justifiably so).

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

I have to wholeheartedly agree with Vibert’s review below. I’d also like to add that I found it a little too harsh and synthetic for my tastes, hence my unsympathetic rating.

But hey, it’s one less fragrance to worry about…

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Incredibly expensive ($280) for such a short-lived fragrance but it still remains my favourite incense scent. While there are similarities with Avignon, I prefer this one more – it possesses a warm and seductive aura that Avignon seriously lacks. If the longevity of this one was at least 6 hours, I would have seriously considered purchasing a bottle.

Unfortunately, I do have one other gripe with Privé Bois d'Encens: the wooden container. Of course, the presentation is unique and quite wonderful but, after inspecting the testers in department stores, it appears that any fragrance oil residue eventually eats away at the black coating. Maybe an oversight on overall presentation but still not something you’d expect for something so expensive. Personally, I would have preferred it without the wooden container. However, the pebble-like cap is a very nice touch.

A thumbs up, regardless.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

A very short-lived citrusy opening, followed by a peppery green-woody accord, with a drydown that is very much cedar-based (with some vetiver still persisting). Overall, a modern and sophisticated fragrance that is probably best worn during the warmer months.

Personally, I decided not to purchase this because the price didn’t justify the average longevity I was getting from this. However, it is a classy creation that I certainly have some admiration for.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

A pleasant floriental that, unfortunately, lacks any staying power for an EDP. It's quite wearable for a man, though.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

There’s way too much déjà vu going on here for me to even consider buying a bottle!

It starts off smelling very similar to Dior's Eau Noir but not so sharp and pungent (also minus the lavender). There's also an agreeable burnt note in the opening. However, during the drydown, it develops into something very similar to Serge Lutens’ Arabie.

While it’s far more pleasant to wear than Eau Noir, it lacks the strength and uniqueness of Arabie to even warrant further consideration.

I’ve still yet to come across a truly unique (and long-lasting) fragrance from this house.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

A better offering, for women, by Cacharel but it’s still not good enough (and the bottle design is hideous – the smaller bottle looks more like a Kinder Surprise vibrator). The sweet floral opening is heady and attractive but it soon fails to go anywhere interesting.

In a nutshell, LouLou is like a Ferrari with a flat tyre.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

A synthetic, and somewhat anemic, clone of Philosykos (with even worse staying power). Philosykos is far superior...

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Even rain water has a stronger presence than this obnoxious piece of bourgeois crap (do you really think some pretentious poem is going to help me ‘understand’ or even appreciate this pathetic creation of nothingness?). If you really need something ‘super clean’, buy Gendarme instead (or just go outside and collect some rain water).

What a complete rip-off!

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Personally, I can detect more amber than patchouli in this!

The opening notes of amber and mint smell like a cross between Piper Nigrum (but with the mintiness lasting a lot longer) and Ambre Sultan (but less harsh and medicinal). Since I wasn't too keen on these two, this seemed like a good compromise. However, the déjà vu continued into the drydown.

Although this is a deep, resinous and warm scent (which was surprisingly enjoyable to wear) it soon developed into a rawer, slightly sharper and intense version of Tauer’s L'Air du Desert Marocain. As I already own this Tauer creation, I really can’t see this as bottle-worthy (and nor would I consider it to be superior). However, amber lovers may find something very appealing in this.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Raw, dark, pungent and utterly disgusting patchouli. Yuck!

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

After all the hype surrounding Balenciaga pour Homme, I just had to try this stuff and ended up getting a mini.

I’m not going to mince my words here, but this stuff smells VERY SIMILAR to Kouros (but with the urinal cake / detergent smell toned down significantly). It’s just as masculine and sophisticated, but the honey, caramel and incense notes make it a lot smoother to wear. However, for what Balenciaga pour Homme makes up for in the drydown, it loses in terms of longevity – it’s still strong stuff (with great sillage) but I wouldn’t say it’s as ‘nuclear’ as Kouros.

Other reviewers have been wondering why this one was discontinued and I think the answer is pretty obvious. Balenciaga pour Homme was never in the same league as YSL (in terms of fashion influence and sales) and this offering was probably seen as a blatant Kouros rip-off (no matter how much of an improvement it was). I’m sure that, at the time, most consumers would have preferred purchasing the ‘original’ rather than some ‘high quality imitation’ (I mean, even the bottles are very similar!).

Although this should never have been discontinued, the writing seemed to be on the wall at the time (and the executives at Balenciaga acted accordingly). Personally, I prefer this to Kouros and, here's hoping Balenciaga will someday have the good sense to re-release this in its original formulation.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

ALL THIS PRAISE HAS GOT TO STOP NOW!!!

Look, I've tried both versions of this and here is my summary:

Beechams Hot Lemon and Honey!

Now, do you really want to smell like that during spring and summer? I thought not…

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

1) EDP sample review:

On first impressions, it definitely smelt more unisex than Mure et Musc Extreme. It started off with this nice (and slightly sharp) citrus blast, with the blackberry in the background. After a short period of time, the blackberry became stronger on my skin but the citrus notes still remained present, albeit less intensely. Personally, I found the citrus notes (which smelt more mandarin-like than lemony) to be a nice touch and felt that this gave the overall composition a bit more edge.

At times, all I could smell was a faint blackberry-scented musk but, occasionally, the blackberry note seemed to re-emerge with a vengeance. When I woke up the following morning, I could still detect traces of it on my skin (although the citrus notes had long disappeared by this stage).

Brilliant stuff!


2) Full-sized bottle (EDP) review:

So, I decided to buy a bottle, after being so impressed with the sample. However, it ended up smelling like urine on my skin! The way it performed on me was extremely different to the sample.

Was the sample in parfum concentration? Well, the label did state EDP. So, either the quality of the sample was totally different from the full-sized bottle I purchased (not a great indication of the consistency between batches) or the sample was indeed parfum concentration but with an EDP label (which would indicate possible deception).

Either way, I’m never going to purchase another Ava Luxe scent again.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Not only do I consider Vetiver Tonka to be the best from the Hermèssence line, but it's also better than Serge Lutens' Vetyver Oriental. Fresh, well blended and simply delightful. I've given it a neutral because of its disappointing longevity and sillage.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

I really don’t rate Chanel fragrances for men – they’ve all disappointed me to various degrees.

With Égoïste, all I get is a mild vanilla and sandalwood base topped with a somewhat sharp (and irritating) metallic rose note. Taking into account that this almost put me off rose scents for life, there’s no way I’m going to be forgiving in the slightest.

I’ve heard rumours that the Égoïste of the early ‘90s was richer, better blended and had greater longevity. Well, I wouldn’t in the least be surprised as the bottle I recently purchased (and promptly sold off) was extremely weak on my skin.

If I could go back in time, I would certainly snag a few bottles of Bois Noir (1987) before the name was changed to Égoïste (or even the concentrée version).

A pathetic shadow of its former self.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Parfum review:

I had great hopes for this one but, for a ‘70s scent, the disappointment came as no surprise. Unfortunately, Aromatics Elixir just doesn’t work on my skin. All I get is an extremely pungent chamomile and patchouli combination that reminds me of a horribly out-of-date perfume. There’s a vague hint of floral notes, in the composition, as well but this is overwhelmed by the two dominant notes.

I really wanted to like this one but my skin chemistry just wouldn’t allow it. Its only redeeming quality is its longevity and sillage, but that’s not even enough to prevent me from giving this one a thumbs down.

I absolutely love the simplicity of the bottle, though.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

During my teenage years, I spent a lot of my free time as a senior altar boy. I still don’t know why I bothered volunteering for such work, as I actually disliked attending church. However, if I had to be honest with myself, it was probably a better alternative to being bored rigid amongst the congregation.

Yes, I much preferred being active at mass than passive, and enjoyed serving at benedictions and high mass. Avignon strongly reminds me of this period in my life but, while I consider it to be the best from the Incense line, it’s certainly something I can’t see myself wearing on a regular basis.

Its conventional frankincense, myrrh and cedar composition works extremely well, and I have yet to come across anything else that surpasses it. Unfortunately, its longevity and sillage is not as strong as I would like it to be. It's also too synthetic for my tastes.

Apart from Goths, those who have some fascination (or perversion) regarding churches and the extremely avant-garde, Avignon will not provide the level of versatility that one is usually used to in fragrances. However, if your interests lie within its artistry, rather than in its potential accessibility, it’s definitely worth going for.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

For an EDP, I expected a more interesting drydown. Instead, all I got was a very sweet and generic amber-woody whisper on my skin. Longevity and sillage could have been a lot better.

A wasted opportunity...

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

One of the reviewers described this as scented water. I’d have to wholeheartedly agree but I think a better description would be SUGARED scented water. With this being Prada’s first fragrance release for men, you’d think they would pull out all the stops to create something that could be considered a ‘classic’ (even if not groundbreaking). Instead, what we have here is a watered down amber scent.

A lazy, mediocre and extremely disappointing release.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

I found Steam Aoud quite unremarkable, so much so that I really don’t have much to say about it. If you’re interested in trying one of Montale’s ouds, try Black Aoud, Attar or Aoud Lime instead. Truly forgettable... quite unremarkable, so much so that I really don’t have much to say about it. If you’re interested in trying one of Montale’s ouds, try Black Aoud, Attar or Aoud Lime instead.

Truly forgettable.

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

http://www.basenotes.net/specials/montale.html

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

This is my favourite from the series, and it doesn’t smell synthetic like the other CdG scents I’ve tried. It starts off as a mild caramel / gourmand type scent that gets stronger as it develops. As the caramel intensifies, the milky tea notes slowly emerge until it eventually dominates.

At first, I really loved it but the tea notes smelt like Coca-Cola on my skin (and I don’t want to smell like that!). However, even if this wasn’t the case, I’m not really sure if I need this – there’s only so many gourmand scents that one can possess.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Lux was a brutal disappointment, as I was really expecting to like it (well, based on other reviews). The opening citrus notes were lovely but, about 10-20 minutes later, all I got was this vile wax accord that rapidly dominated the scent.

Maybe it's just my skin chemistry...

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

At first I loved this honey scent (I really don’t know why so many people are disgusted by it). However, it’s so light and linear that I eventually found it quite boring. In addition, its sillage and longevity are below average.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

It took me a while to really appreciate the simplicity of this woody, peppery and slightly sweet fragrance.

Gigli Man is unique, fresh and extremely easy to wear. At first, its sillage and longevity come across as relatively poor but don’t let that fool you. With subsequent wearings this actually improves, until it lingers long enough on your skin to be noticed several hours later.

Best worn on warmer days, this rather enjoyable (and relatively unknown) fragrance encapsulates an Italian summer, in the freshest and most subtle way.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

I’ve always wanted a cucumber scent for summer and was expecting Cucumber Baie to be the perfect candidate. Oh, how wrong I was!

Yeah, it smells naturally of cucumber but it lacks the freshness one would expect. In addition, there’s a lingering note that gives the scent an ‘off’ smell. Longevity was also disappointing but its sillage was respectable.

Personally, smearing my face with freshly liquidized cucumbers would yield better results – and it’d also be a lot cheaper.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Rochas Man is practically everything that Gucci pour Homme wanted to be (but miserably failed). It’s quite woody, yes, but there’s no association with pencil shavings here – just a slightly dark, warm and sensual woody scent (with a generous measure of patchouli and vanilla thrown in, to balance things out). The bottle design is beautiful and simple (and I just love the way it rocks). Longevity is marvellous and its sillage is moderate.

This is an underrated gem that may be in danger of being discontinued – get it while you can!

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

This is an amazingly complex cologne, and there’s not really much more I can add that both Gerald and JamieB haven’t mentioned already.

I would definitely agree that there is an olfactory overload, especially during the first few moments after application, but this is a highly pleasant experience in itself. From that moment onwards, certain notes do eventually reveal themselves more than others but it takes several wears for the wearer to realise this. This in itself makes No. 68 such a compelling and cerebral fragrance – not strictly in terms of its composition but also in the way it almost demands the wearer to discover something new, as if its very existence can only be justified by such musings.

Personally, I love this cologne much more than Guerlain’s traditional eaux, purely because No. 68 is far more complex and yet less pretentious, longer lasting but just as refreshing, timeless and yet ultra-modern. It’s a rare cologne that manages to successfully escape the confines, as well as clichés, of what constitutes a great cologne.

My only reservation is its extortionately high price but, sometime in the near future, I can possibly see myself investing in a bottle of this…

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Xeryus Rouge is a horribly vile and synthetic fruity scent that is way too sweet for its own good. When I first smelt this (around the time I first became interested in perfumes) I absolutely hated it. In those days, my nose wasn’t even as sophisticated as it is now. I think that pretty much sums up how awful this stuff really is.

[Original submission date: 27 May 2008]

Royal Delight is quite a pleasant, albeit slightly feminine, fragrance to wear. However, not only did I manage to pick-up that ‘Scotch tape’ accord, I also didn’t find it as long lasting as others have claimed (longest lasting Creed?! Get out of here!). Combined with the fact that it failed to keep my interest with subsequent wearings, I found this one to be a bit of a let down (possibly due to a lack of comlexity and depth).

It’s a nicely composed creation but certainly not for me or my body chemistry.

[Original submission date: 28 May 2008]

It actually smells quite nice (and not too synthetic) but smelling like a Granny Smith is not my idea of fun…

[Original submission date: 01 July 2008]

It actually smells okay (and not too synthetic) but smelling like a Brae Burn is not my idea of fun…

[Original submission date: 01 July 2008]

A very floral composition with tons of tuberose evident. It’s so floral that it almost smells pink – in other words, it’s possibly way too feminine for most men to pull off. Longevity and sillage are both okay but you’d expect better for something in parfum extrait concentration. Also, the drydown is generic and disappointing.

Regardless of the concept, quality and execution, there’s nothing really groundbreaking or satisfying here (especially for the hefty retail price).

[Original submission date: 01 July 2008]

I’ve tried so hard to get this one but I simply can’t.

This is, essentially, a softer version of Patchouly with loads of musk thrown in. However, while it’s a very pleasant (and obviously well-blended) scent, there’s nothing about it that arouses my emotions. Also, I found it far too subtle on my skin (and I was constantly given the impression that this EDT is very much the same strength of an EDP).

Other Basenoters may be going ga-ga over this creation but it simply leaves me cold.

[Original submission date: 01 July 2008]

Urrrggh! This ‘80s creation is way too much for me. It belongs to a previous generation that I was never a part of and am, therefore, not able to appreciate its ‘qualities’. Don’t ask me about notes because I was more concerned about scrubbing this stuff off my skin. If you like and appreciate, say, Quorum then this may appeal to you. However, chances are, you were old enough to wear fragrances when both of these were at the peak of their popularity.

I’m probably just too young to understand…

[Original submission date: 01 July 2008]

This stuff is completely vile and horribly dated. It will always be remembered as my first disastrous blind buy (influenced by all the praise it once received around here).

One perfume experience I'd rather forget.

[Original submission date: 03 July 2008]

It smells too excruciatingly ‘girlie’ for any wearer of this to be taken seriously. Strictly for clubbing, where being taken seriously is not really that important (especially when everyone else is intoxicated in one way or another)…

[Original submission date: 01 July 2008]

The worse of the four Byredos that I tested (I decided to give Rose Noir a miss). It’s, at best, a faint citrus-musk with fleeting traces of the ginger, nutmeg and incense.

For those who love understated fragrances, this may appeal to you but it was painfully nondescript to me.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

Byredo fragrances heavily remind me of the creations by both Frédéric Malle and Biehl Parfumkunstwerke – modern, interesting, translucent but (largely) unsatisfying.

I had high hopes for Gypsy Water and was interested in how the juniper berries, pepper and pine needles would be incorporated. Unfortunately, all I smelt was a boring peppery cologne-type scent with the juniper ever present (although slightly muted).

Pleasant but definitely not what I was expecting.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

I've heard the women’s Jubilation was more interesting than the men’s but I really can’t understand why. This just smells like a vintage Guerlain, to me. At a push, I would say it has a striking resemblance to L’Heure Bleue (but slightly less melancholic).

For the high price tag, I expected something far more original and interesting.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

“Circus and cotton candy. Giggling butterflies in the belly. Maximum high spirit.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

A light, and understated, gourmand fragrance that smells very similar to Lolita Empicka.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

“Sun, finally. A breath of wind. The soul smiles.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

A light, and understated, fruity fragrance that fails to offering anything different to what’s currently on the market.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

“The dark side of power. Frivolous and worth every sin.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

One of the better releases from this house. Unfortunately, this is simply an extension of the CdG Incense series (which Mark Buxton was creatively involved in). If you didn’t appreciate those (like me), you won’t be able to fully appreciate this offering.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

“Cool eroticism. White, no trace of innocence.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

Out of the three Mark Buxton creations, this one is my favourite. However, there’s an accord in the composition I find somewhat unsettling (that I simply can’t put my finger on). It’s more alluring than sexy but juxtaposed with a prevailing sense of distance and coldness – it’s like encountering the woman of your dreams only to realise that she’s an aloof and impenetrable ice queen.

It’s probably one of the most intriguing offerings from this house, so far.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

“The power of elegance. Almost magical because you know exactly what you are doing...” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

Although this one was created by Henning Biehl (the father of the founder of Biehl Parfumkunstwerke) this is the offering that I care for the least. I find this one clinically and monumentally dull, and too transparent for my liking.

At least there’s another fragrance to keep LesNez’s L'Antimatiere company…

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

“High-class colonial style. Very sophisticated.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

I have to wholeheartedly agree with odysseusm on this one – it simply left me cold.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

“Subtle the-best-is-good-enough attitude. Extravagance in white.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

What’s with Biehl Parfumkunstwerke's fascination with white?!

This was too floral for my tastes but my main gripe is the subtlety of the fragrance.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

“Charisma. Determination. Arrogance can be erotic after all.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

I can’t find my written notes for this one but I do recall quite liking it. However, like all Biehl Parfumkunstwerke offerings, I couldn’t deem this one full bottle-worthy due to its ultra-modern, slightly clinical and translucent nature.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

EDP review:

The only half-decent men's release from Storer but it still fails to fully convince or inspire me. I don’t get much incense from this at all – more of a musty smell you associate with an old decrepit building. Like Ava Luxe, there’s something amateurish and muddy about his creations that I, unfortunately, am unable to appreciate.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

I find this one too dry, resinous and harsh for my liking.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

There seems to be a growing trend in re-releasing classic citrus scents with a leather note thrown in for good measure (think Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa).

It’s actually a decent release (unlike Acqua di Parma’s effort) and far better than Eau Sauvage Extrême. However, like its predecessors, it lacks the tenacity that I usually expect in bottle-worthy fragrances (but that's to be expected with this type of scent).

A thumbs-up, nevertheless, for successfully modernising it.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

I’m not a big fan of musk scents but this one is extremely well-done and quite addictive to wear.

Unlike other musks, Silver Musk is a very bright and clean interpretation of this note family. I can detect some florals in there and wouldn’t be surprised if rose was one of the dominant notes – there’s a soft metallic note that sufficiently compensates for the absence of ‘dirty’ notes.

The closest thing I can compare this to would be Body Shop’s White Musk but, where White Musk smells very feminine (and some would say too girly), Silver Musk comes across as more gender neutral. Perhaps this is because Silver Musk is devoid of the fruity notes (such as peach) that make White Musk smell the way it does.

Although this is currently my favourite from Nasomatto, I still wouldn’t consider it full bottle-worthy. This is not simply because I’m hesitant about adding a musk scent to my wardrobe but more based on the high price tag and its average longevity – it lasts about 5-6 hours on me. For a parfum extrait, I would have expected it to last almost twice as long.

[Original submission date: 06 July 2008]

A faint, woody floral that left me very unimpressed.

[Original submission date: 06 July 2008]

A lovely patchouli scent but, as there are plenty of cheaper niche alternatives currently on the market (and of a similar high quality), there’s very little edge that Hindu Grass can provide. Yes, it does comes in parfum extrait (quite a rare thing for a unisex patchouli scent) but its longevity doesn’t live up to expectations.

There are many patchouli scents, especially in EDP concentration, which satisfy far more than this Nasomatto offering.

[Original submission date: 06 July 2008]

Duro is my favourite scent from this relatively new house.

The opening to this woody-leather creation starts out slightly sweet and spicy (vaguely similar to SL’s Cèdre) but this is quite brief. Within seconds, the sweetness subsides to allow the leather notes to emerge. As it develops towards the drydown, the composition becomes a tad darker with the leather becoming even more apparent (but collaborating with the woody notes rather than overwhelming them). A slightly pungent, almost blunt, note does make an appearance shortly afterwards but I’m assuming this is just the leather kicking into gear. After a short while, all the notes meld together and continue to perform harmoniously.

All in all, it’s a very pleasant high-quality scent but (once again) its longevity doesn't justify the hefty price tag (nor its claim that's it's a parfum extrait).

[Original submission date: 01 August 2008]

This is probably my least favourite Nasomatto release (discounting Narcotic Venus, for obvious reasons).

The opening is slightly minty but the drydown is quite banal, with the absinthe not as strong as expected. The vetiver aids the rest of what’s left of the composition, during the drydown, but one can’t help feeling how lame its performance is. Also, its longevity is probably the worst out of all the offerings from this house.

[Original submission date: 01 August 2008]

An unnecessarily sharp and synthetic floral. I really can’t believe people think this smells nice...

[Original submission date: 01 August 2008]

A slight improvement on Emporio Armani She (i.e. not as sharp) but not that much better. The bottle design is also pretty ugly.

[Original submission date: 01 August 2008]

Velvet Flowers is very similar to Aoud Velvet but with less woods and vanilla / tonka bean, and more floral and fruity notes instead. The opening is brighter and slightly zesty, with juicy (but not dominant) citrus notes in the opening. However, once these subside, it all gets a bit too ‘been there, done that’ for my liking.

If you found Aoud Velvet too dense and overbearing to wear, and also preferred the opening to its awful drydown, give this one a try. Personally, for me, Velvet Flowers simply comes across as a lazy rehash (even though it's a reasonable improvement over Aoud Velvet).

******

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[Original submission date: 05 August 2008]

Hmmm... Chypre Fruite smells like a less waxy (and also less sugary) Ava Luxe creation. Not a good thing...

******

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[Original submission date: 05 August 2008]

The name is quite deceptive but its meaning becomes apparent once tested on the skin. Personally, I was expecting an amazing floral scent (especially after all the rave reviews). Instead, what I got was a light, inoffensive floral musk that could hardly be detected (once again, the masses go ga-ga for something ultra clean and ultra boring…). I may not like musk scents but I most certainly despise modern ‘clean’ scents.

A thumbs down for wasting my time…

******

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[Original submission date: 05 August 2008]

A very pleasant coconut fragrance with a hint of gardenia / tiare. Very feminine, a tad synthetic but long lasting. Unfortunately, it also reminds me of those coconut-scented bath oils and liquid hand soaps...

******

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[Original submission date: 06 August 2008]

An over-hyped and overpriced vanilla-tobacco scent that is not as unique or brilliant as it makes out to be. If you must really own an adult-vanilla scent like this, get Guerlain’s Spiritueuse Double Vanille – it’s cheaper (per ml) and more complex.

Don't believe the hype!

[Original submission date: 06 August 2008]

This is a very pleasant spicy-vanilla fragrance that, unfortunately, smells more synthetic with each consecutive wearing. It’s soft and alluring rather than aggressive, but its longevity could have been a lot better.

[Original submission date: 06 August 2008]

NO, NO, NO!!!

Once applied on my skin, it smells EXACTLY like fried seasoned chicken legs (of the West Indian variety)! I've tried being patient with it but it lacks any development (and it doesn't get much better).

Yuck!

[Original submission date: 11 July 2008]

“Warming balsam for the soul.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

It smells exactly like Organza Indecence to me. It wouldn't have been a bad thing if Givenchy never bothered re-releasing it.

[Original submission date: 11 July 2008]

After the disappointing Incense Extreme, I had great expectations for Incense Rose.

In some respects, this has satisfied some of my expectations (i.e. its sillage and longevity is up to the usual Tauer standard). The clementine opening is juicy, enticing and lasts throughout most of the scent’s development (which is just as pleasing as the menthol note in Incense Extreme). However, on the other hand, I got a lot of déjà vu (especially with YSL’s Opium PH EDP). There are also moments when it has an almost pot-pourri vibe from the rose – not a good thing, nor something you’d expect from the (now) experienced perfumer who also created the majestic L'Air du Desert Marocain.

Incense Rose lacks the degree of sensuality that I normally look for in fragrances, and I’m still not sure if it’s bottle-worthy. However, it’s definitely a significant improvement on Incense Extrême.

[Original submission date: 11 July 2008]

Another teenage Christmas, another pair of socks / gloves / underwear [please delete whichever option is not applicable] with yet another bloody bottle of Brut.

Mum and dad, I think it’s time you’ve found yourself some new friends…



No, seriously...

[Original submission date: 11 July 2008]

Very much like Rousse but with the emphasis on ginger rather than cinnamon (and they were released roughly a year apart!). It's also not up to the usual Lutens' standards, in terms of sillage and longevity. Its subtle quality is very uncharacteristic of this house but, then again, this sense of 'playing it safe' has been painfully evident in most of its creations for the past couple of years now.

A very disappointing release.

[Original submission date: 18 July 2008]

I totally agree with foetidus over this one. Sud Est smells too cologny and old-fashioned for me to fully appreciate. This herbal scent, in theory, should work but it failed to impress me during the few occasions I tested it. It’s by no means awful, just not to my liking.

Still, if Lorenzo Villoresi’s Spezie was too much for you, this one may appeal – they’re not exactly the same, although they do share a very similar conceptual take on herbal aromatics during the height of an Italian summer.

[Original submission date: 11 July 2008]

One of the biggest disappointments out of the several hundreds of fragrances I’ve tried so far. When I first read about Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé, I thought it had the potential to be my holy grail scent – its description and list of notes filled me with so much excitement that I was so certain I would eventually buy a bottle. You couldn’t imagine how much my heart sank when I finally had the opportunity to test it…

Vibert’s review (once again) is spot on – it’s essentially a VERY sweet gourmand, mainly consisting of honey, raisins and spices. I, too, hardly detected much amber in its composition, and although this never initially bothered me its excessive sweetness did. Coupled with the fact that its mild sillage and longevity failed to justify its inflated price tag, I was left wondering who (apart from those who love cinnamon scents) would be interested in buying this. Yes, maybe some would consider this to be an easy amber scent to wear but it’s anything but an amber scent.

If you’re looking for a more complex and resinous gourmand (while retaining that exotic vibe), try Arabie. If you love the aroma of Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé but dislike its sickly sweetness, or its weak and linear performance, try Spiritueuse Double Vanille (a bit more expensive, overall, but better value for money). However, if you’re looking for an excellent amber scent, try Ambre Precieux, Ambre Sultan or Blue Amber instead – not only are these GENUINE amber scents but they’re a lot cheaper too.

[Original submission date: 18 July 2008]

There are five main reasons why I wouldn’t buy a bottle of Rêverie au Jardin:

1) Too sweet
2) Poor sillage
3) Average longevity (which, by Tauer’s standards, is disappointing)
4) I already own Serge Lutens’ Gris Clair (a far more superior lavender scent)
5) Compared to L'Air du Desert Marocain, this is quite unremarkable

[Original submission date: 22 July 2008]

Created for those who believe that sweating equates to being filthy, forgetting that it’s simply a natural bodily function. And what's the point in smelling like you've just got out of the shower when, chances are, you probably already had a shower BEFORE applying this onto your body?!

Perfume releases like Clean Men concern me greatly. It’s nothing more than another exercise in brainwashing the public into feeling further ashamed of their natural bodily odors (or anything that doesn’t smell Alpine fresh). Since when have humans needed to be ‘sanitised’ like a kitchen work surface?! What’s even more concerning is how a large proportion of the general public seem to have fallen for all this marketing (or political?) bullshit, preferring to smell like generic washing powder (i.e. horribly synthetic) rather than anything else with even the slightest sense of distinction or character.

If you own a bottle of Clean Men, teach it some irony: flush it down the drain and into the sewers.

[Original submission date: 22 July 2008]

Floral starts out as a very potent woody-floral scent with a large dose of aldehydes. It’s also very reminiscent of the feminine powerhouse releases from the golden era of perfumery. I actually found this to be one of the most intriguing releases from this house. Unfortunately, for an EDP, its potency wasn’t as great as expected – within a couple of hours, it developed into nothing more than a faint skin scent.

[Original submission date: 22 July 2008]

The female version of Aoud (which is marketed for men) is a floral oud affair that smells very promising in the opening but develops into something unspectacular during the drydown.

Its longevity is also severely lacking.

[Original submission date: 22 July 2008]

WARNING! Don’t be fooled by the name – this is not an amber-dominant fragrance!

Note Ambre is more of a feminine floral creation with amber only playing a small part in the composition. Personally, I found this one to be underwhelming. Also, the fact that I was unfairly misled by the name didn’t help matters at all.

[Original submission date: 22 July 2008]

A pleasant woody-spicy fragrance, which suffers from smelling quite soapy once the notes have settled down. I also found it far too soft and ‘polite’ for my liking.

[Original submission date: 22 July 2008]

Berberiades Extreme review:

This is a very poor attempt at emulating something akin to Tauer’s L'Air du Desert Marocain (based on the description of this creation).

I can hardly detect most of the notes in the composition (such as patchouli, incense and amber) but I do get a hint of vanilla, cinnamon and ginger in the background. Unfortunately, all I can smell is a muddied woody scent with the cedar dominating. It also lacks any complexity and has average longevity (but decent sillage). In the end, all I’m left with is an inferior version of Feminitè du Bois.

As a side note, I’m also very confused about its concentration – Luckyscent advertises it as an EDP but my official sample claims it’s an EDT. Hmmm, very strange…

As this is the only Stephanie de Saint-Aignan creation that truly interested me, I’ll have to pass on this house.

[Original submission date: 22 July 2008]

Although this is a combination of fresh notes with cocoa bean, tonka and amber, it smelt like a high quality acquatic to me. This would appeal to those who love the fresh modern releases by Creed but, for me, it was nothing spectacular. My female companion considered this to be one of the best that I tested from this house. But then again, in her defence, her perfume knowledge is painfully limited to designer fragrances.

[Original submission date: 22 July 2008]

I'm afraid this one wasn't to my liking and the experience wasn't a very pleasant one. All I got was this overpowering cornstarch accord.

No thanks!

[Original submission date: 30 August 2008]

Should I be wearing this or should I be glue-sniffing instead? Hmmm...

[Original submission date: 26 September 2008]

Hoos’ review is pretty spot on and I do agree that the celery (salt) note is the main thing about the composition that spoilt my enjoyment of it, as the drydown was quite unbecoming on my skin. On first impressions, however, L'Eau de Hesperides smelt like a cologne version of Oyédo, with the celery (salt) note replacing the thyme and florals notes.

For those who felt that Oyédo was a bit too much, this may be a very good substitute. Well, that’s if you don’t mind the celery (salt) note...

[Original submission date: 26 September 2008]

Oud Queen Roses slots somewhere inbetween Black Aoud and Aoud Roses Petals. It’s almost as dark and rich as Black Aoud but, like Aoud Roses Petals, its main emphasis is on the roses. I actually prefer this more than Aoud Roses Petals, as it’s more substantial and satisfying. Also, although the oud is toned down, it’s much more detectable throughout its development than Aoud Roses Petals.

However, once again, is it really worth owning? Well, if you already own Aoud Roses Petals, probably not. And if you own Black Aoud? Hmmm… maybe but just about…

Regardless of its subtle differences, I actually do like it.

******

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[Original submission date: 26 September 2008]

A very sweet citrus-woody affair that simply fails to appeal. The presence of the juniper is both brief and slightly crude, with a dull powdery drydown.

[Original submission date: 26 September 2008]

A pleasant patchouli scent that remains linear throughout, without smelling dated. Like foetidus, I also detected a faint citrus-floral accord. However, there are far better patchouli scents out there.

[Original submission date: 26 September 2008]

Yuk! This is really bloody awful!

I’ve never been a fan of coconut scents but I’m always willing to give new and unacquainted releases a try. Unfortunately, this has to be one of the worse coconut scents I’ve ever smelt. The artificial, plasticky and sharp metallic coconut accord is vile, resulting in the whole composition being nothing more than a crude chemical assault on the nose. It’s a complete and utter mess and smells more like burning rubber, which was smeared with coconut oil before being set alight.

Avoid at all costs!

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

Soon after applying, I really loved Crème Brûlée – it certainly smelt like the real thing. But after a few minutes, it turned rancid on my skin. I can’t explain it but it just reeked in a bad way. At some point, the composition managed to pull itself together but the final straw came when a buttery egg accord unexpectedly emerged. Crème Brûlée now smelt raw (in a foody way) rather than delicious. Also, the drydown eventually smelt of butter, with a hint of caramelized sugar lurking in the background.

Oh, did I happen to mention that I wasn’t impressed?

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

It smells like a well-composed fragrance but this soft floral lacks any real distinction. It’s boring, generic and quite unremarkable.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

Cinnabar is too pungent and musty, with the carnation overwhelming the cinnamon. There’s a lack of clarity in the composition and the end result is simply a mess of notes. It also smells very old-fashioned – more than I would personally like or could even tolerate.

Put simply, Cinnabar is not the timeless classic that it likes to think it is.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

Recent reviewers taliaseki, Nukapai and JennieJenJamz have all said exactly what I wanted to say about Youth Dew. It's a hideously old and musty relic that should have long been discontinued, and confined to Osmotheque and Le Musée International de la Parfumerie.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

It smells very feminine and VERY old-fashioned. I didn't get much pleasure from wearing this at all.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

Pleasures is a floral fragrance that comes across as too clean, generic and somewhat synthetic. It's also missing that special 'something'.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

1 Million smells very generic and synthetic, and the bottle is as tacky as hell. But I’m giving this a neutral, instead of a thumbs down, because the juice actually has some strength and is not watered down like all the other wishy-washy designer scents currently being released. Hopefully, this is an indication that there is some light at the end of the tunnel.

Even though I don’t like it, you have to give credit where credit’s due...

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

Oh, my God! This stuff is utterly vile! Even Virgilio is more tolerable to wear than this. And, yes, it does smell like vinegar...

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

Boudoir is a tuberose and amber assault on the senses. After loosing some teeth, my dentist advised me to refrain from wearing this again.

[Original submission date: 27 September 2008]

From the very first sniff, I really loved this one.

Why? Because it smells like a cross between Ormonde Jayne’s Isfarkand pour Homme (in terms of the citrus, pepper and vetiver combo) and Hermes' Vetiver Tonka (in terms of the richness and depth of the Haitian vetiver and vanilla used). Its sillage and longevity are initially deceptive – the scent seems quite soft at first but is just as potent as, say, Black Aoud. However, I could easily smell traces of Red Vetyver on my coat days later.

Where Vetiver Tonka was too soft on my skin (before turning) and Isfarkand pour Homme’s (rather weak) drydown had too much emphasis on cedar, Red Vetyver combines their strengths while successfully satisfying to the core. It really is an impressive creation that I hope never to grow tired of. In addition, it’s slightly cheaper than the other two to acquire.

Red Vetyver is now among my top three favourite non-aoud releases by Montale (with Blue Amber and Sweet Oriental Dream being the other two). Also, due to the creamy fullness of the Haitian vetiver, this can easily be worn all year round.

Absolutely stunning!

******

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

Sliver Aoud mainly comprises of lemons, herbs and a dash of oud. It’s certainly uplifting and refreshing, especially for a Montale aoud. However, it greatly reminds me of the ‘classic’ citrus scents such as Christian Dior’s Eau Sauvage (too much, in fact). Also, its longevity and sillage are average with not much oud present.

It’s okay but definitely not for me.

******

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

When I first read about Sunset Flowers, the listed notes came across as a refreshing change from the usual overdose of florals or sugary sweetness that most Montale non-aouds often fall victim to. Upon application, I could detect all of the listed notes (i.e. lemon tree blossom, green apples, blue chamomile, violets) but something just didn’t smell right about it.

The problem, I think, is the green apple accord – it smells quite synthetic and unnecessarily sharp. With the lemon tree blossom adding an additional sour note (thus supporting the green apple’s full-on offensive) the overall effect was overwhelming. However, by the time it reached the drydown, the florals (that had previously been in the background) emerged more to the fore, gradually becoming stronger as the initial dominant accord finally (and thankfully) died down.

It’s a nice composition that’s more feminine than unisex but, regardless of this, the synthetic opening was a bit of a turn-off for me. Still, credit should be given for Montale offering something less run-of-the-mill.

******

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

Wild strawberries and sweet almonds? Well, I’m sorry but this smells horribly synthetic and medicinal. If anything, it reminds me of an empty bottle of strawberry-flavoured cough syrup.

This should never have been released, let alone created. Mukhallat is one of the worst Montale releases ever.

******

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

I’m sorry but I really didn't like this one – it’s too synthetic, too dense, too sweet, too floral… It’s just too much. Although it did smell better during the drydown, I was too traumatised to even care...

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

Golden Aoud seems to be lighter than most Montale aouds and not as harsh. It’s very similar to the more genteel offerings from this line (Royal Aoud, White Aoud, etc.) – there’s no ‘in your face’ oud note present and that was something I sorely missed.

What I largely detected were dry woods (primarily cedar and sandalwood) with the oud being just about there. Unfortunately, I found this one to be too underwhelming for my tastes. Also, there’s a noticeable smoky or metallic accord during the drydown, which could be either irritating or addictive for some.

For those who love the more discreet Montales, this one should appeal to you.

******

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

This is a sweeter version of Golden Aoud (and just as subtle). Although it’s not as sweet as White Aoud, with respect to the vanilla / tonka bean, its composition slots in nicely between these two.

Unfortunately, it’s too feminine for me…

******

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

If you like Royal Aoud, Aoud Shiny should appeal but I’m not really sure if there was any point in releasing this one, as they're too similar.

Daft name, too.

******

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

I’ve often maintained that Aoud Flowers is a darker version of Black Aoud and, although many have disagreed, I still remain defiant about this viewpoint.

Black Aoud encompasses a romantic perspective of the gothic aesthetic, with colour associations including light and pastel hues (apart from its name and the term ‘gothic’, I fail to find any further associations of the colour black with Black Aoud). It’s best described as being stuck in an empty well with the glimmering light reassuring you of being discovered, and only the swaying of the towering trees to keep you company. There’s an element of light in Black Aoud that provides hope, with the ability to awaken you from the nightmares should they become unbearable.

On the other hand, Aoud Flowers represents the pure gothic nature – the facets of darkness and evil that most humans are unable (or unwillingly) to imagine. The rush of adrenalin, lust, fear and narcotics through the blood stream; the colour of congealed blood; and dark murky browns are some associations that spring to mind whenever I smell Aoud Flowers. Where Black Aoud is akin to being trapped in a well, Aoud Flowers is best described as being buried alive six-feet under, in a steel coffin. Yes, there’s definitely a strong metallic accord in this baby…

I love Aoud Flowers for being so distinct from most of the other Montale aouds. It’s sillage and longevity are simply amazing (even more so than Black Aoud). It’s also the best Montale aoud in quite a while and has yet to be equalled or surpassed.

Excellent!

******

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[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

A synthetic and generic citrus fragrance with a faint woody base. I also found the elemi note (mainly responsible for the spicy-peppery accord) too overwhelming for the majority of its duration.

Pass.

[Original submission date: 28 September 2008]

This is probably the softest creation from this 'house' that I have yet to try. It takes a while for Clean Fresh Laundry to develop into something more noticeable. Also, there are faint floral accords that present themselves during the drydown but the whole affair is as synthetic as anything else released by Clean.

If you want to smell like fabric softener, be my guest...

[Original submission date: 15 October 2008]

I agree with foetidus’ comparison to L’Artisan’s Mûre et Musc, although I wouldn’t say that Fruits of the Musk is awful. I, too, can only detect berries in this (hence Mûre et Musc springing to mind) and not much else besides the musk. Overall, it’s more of a strawberry musk with a berry accord playing a supporting role. If this tickles your fancy, give it a try. However, if you expected a better representation of what the name implies, look elsewhere.

******

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[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

Woods and spices this is not – it's more a syrupy sweetness with anise, cinnamon and not much else. It’s not as synthetic as some have made out but, at the same time, it’s not that spectacular either (even though I still appreciate its simplicity). This is obviously one Montale creation that needs to be renamed…

******

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[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

Powder Flowers starts off a tad sharp but eventually softens into a very pleasant floral / talcum powder scent, with the rose being the main floral accord (supported by iris, amber and vanilla amongst other notes). There are a lot of scents like this that just never connected with me but Powder Flowers is the first one that has. It’s very similar to Lorenzo Villoresi's Teint de Neige but this contained an unbecoming sharp (and somewhat synthetic) note that became more evident the more I wore it. With Powder Flowers, however, it manages not to fall into the same trap.

This is a soft, sweet and ethereal scent, with very good lasting power. I wouldn’t go as far to say it’s beautiful but it’s definitely a very attractive creation. It’s not as sickeningly sweet as most of the non-aoud Montales (much to my relief) and doesn’t come across as synthetic or cheap-smelling. However, the main complaint I have with Powder Flowers is the fact that, once the more interesting notes subside, the talcum powder drydown is too clean and uneventful for my liking. Also, I find this to be more of a comfort scent than something I’d choose to wear out in public, due to its almost subdued nature.

Based on this, it’s not a Montale that I would consider full-bottle worthy but I can imagine Powder Flowers having many admirers.

******

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[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

Aromatic Lime is an interesting citrus-woody-aromatic-green that fails to contribute anything new or interesting. In fact, it smells like something Sisley would have released, coming across as a hybrid of Eau de Campagne and Eau du Soir. Sillage is about average but its lasting powder is not as impressive as other Montale releases, nor does it smell as natural and sophisticated as the Sisley creations.

Personally, I’d rather pay a little extra and obtain a Sisley...

******

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[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

Attar is a beautiful sandalwood and rose combo, which successfully manages to balance out the spicy earthiness of the rose and the creamy properties of the sandalwood. Like other reviewers, I’m not sure if there is oud in this either but if there is some it’s kept to a minimum.

I never thought I would love Attar but I most certainly do. This is sophisticated, romantic and delicious all at once.

Absolutely marvellous!

******

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[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

When I first tried this, a couple of years ago, I absolutely hated it and my perception of it certainly hasn't changed…

The first notes I’m met with are black pepper, spices and elemi, which overwhelm the composition for the first few minutes (there is also a citrus or cardamom accord in the opening but this is very fleeting). Once the initial notes subside, the woods (especially the cedar), incense and leather are allowed to emerge and bloom. Shortly afterwards, the incense and leather dominate the woods but, at some point, the tables are turned leaving nothing more than a faint woody musk.

Some reviews have mentioned sandalwood but I can hardly detect any during its development. As for the cumin, I can definitely smell this but it’s more of a supporting note to my nose (and therefore not too imposing or heavy). In addition, I can also sense a lavender accord that conjures shades of grey with each sniff (and also the possible source of inspiration for its name) – a Gris Clair light is a nice description of what Greyland could have been if it was done correctly. Its longevity is not one of its strongest points and its sillage is about average.

After more time spent with Greyland, it comes across as a scent that’s very masculine, dark and serious. However, it’s also quite morbid and flat. Everytime I smell it (especially during the drydown) it reminds me of all the things I don’t want to reminded of when living in a city – cloudy grey skies, pollution and urban decay, concrete landscapes, pylons and filthy underground / metro stations, emotional isolation and urban disenchantment… There’s a lack of warmth, colour and humanity in Greyland that would simply depress the heck out of me.

No, thanks!

******

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[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

Quel Amour! is a very sweet fruity-floral that is one of the better offerings from this house. Although I have no reservations about its loudness, like Caltha, I probably would have appreciated it more if there was another note incorporated into the composition, to anchor the sweetness down.

It’s very nice but a bit too feminine for my tastes.

[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

Carnal Flower is one hell of an intense, rich and creamy tuberose scent that really pushes the envelope, in terms of possessing the highest concentration of this natural oil on the market. I really admire the fact that Dominique Ropion has done the same thing for tuberose as he has done for vetiver (with Vétiver Extraordinaire) but, alas, it's too perfumery / feminine for me to pull off. However, its longevity is amazing (at least 12 hours).

Hopefully, I'll change my mind about this in the near future...

[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

French Lover is a woody-incense fragrance, which I swear has been done before. However, I do agree it's a high-quality creation that's worth considering.

[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

Smells like melting plastic and cold onion soup. Ughh!

[Original submission date: 24 October 2008]

Eau Lente is an amazing scent and is also one of Diptyque’s best fragrances.

It’s such as warm, mellow and cozy scent, consisting of notes I usually have a hard time appreciating. For example, I love the smell of opopanax but had yet to come across a scent that incorporated this note according to my tastes. With Eau Lente, the opopanax is beautifully utilised (without smelling musty or slightly off) and alluringly emits itself like a rich amber or vanilla. Combinated with cloves (another note I’m not a big fan of), nutmeg and cinnamon, it can sometimes be slightly reminiscent of potpourri. However, the creamy sweetness of the opopanax provides a sensual earthiness, saving the whole composition from any unwanted scrutiny. Although it’s quite linear, the lasting power is very good.

Overall, this is a fantastic spicy scent that’s well-balanced with plenty of depth. This isn’t something I could see myself wearing out in public but, during the autumn and winter months, I would definitely gain enormous pleasure from wearing this around the house.

[Original submission date: 24 October 2008]

Ubar was released to celebrate Oman’s Silver Jubilee year. The name, Ubar, is taken from a lost Omani city, long believed to be an important centre of the historical frankincense trade. The following review is for the EDP concentration:

Ubar is a beautiful rose, sandalwood and vanilla scent that stays close to the skin but lasts quite a while. Although discontinued years ago, many have claimed that Ubar is the best fragrance Amouage has released so far. Funnily enough, I can understand this claim since it’s the only Amouage release I've considered to be full bottle-worthy. Unfortunately, for me, it’s more feminine than unisex (even after the floral notes subside during the sandalwood drydown) and it also lacks sufficient sillage to satisfy my insatiable appetite for projection.

However, regardless of these reservations, Ubar is a high-quality and well composed scent that’s both sophisticated and sensual.

Notes: bergamot, lemon, lily of the valley, Damascena rose, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, sandalwood, synthetic civet and vanilla.

[Original submission date: 24 October 2008]

Man, this one’s just weird! I definitely agree that it has a mushroom accord lurking in the composition. But coupled with the synthetic accords of violets, musk and sweaty human flesh, there’s no way I can appreciate it for what it is.

Yes, Dans Tes Bras does push the envelope somewhat (hence the neutral rating) but that’s no consolation for something that I find pretty much unwearable.

[Original submission date: 24 October 2008]

A very peppery scent that smells like most run-of-the-mill peppery scents. The opening is very ‘in your face’ but that’s as interesting as it gets, with a generic and... ahem... peppery drydown.

Masculine? Why, of course!

[Original submission date: 24 November 2008]

An okay but, largely, faint and nondescript eau de cologne that comes across as one big sissy, when placed amongst so-called EDTs masquerading around as EDCs.

[Original submission date: 24 November 2008]

A lovely tea-rose scent that works far better for me than Hammam Bouquet and smells more contemporary. Personally, I find this more unisex than feminine.

[Original submission date: 24 November 2008]

I actually like this one but, for an EDP, the longevity is absolutely pitiful. This exotic woody-floral could have been a clear personal favourite from this house but, very much like L’Artisan, they had to spoil it by watering down the composition.

Oh, but aren't Penhaligon's and L'Artisan owned by the same company? Hmmm, it's all beginning to make sense now...

[Original submission date: 24 November 2008]

Siwa is a generic floral vanilla scent and nothing more. It doesn’t smell like a desert, let alone an Egyptian desert but that’s the gaul of marketing executives for you.

Notes: cinnamon, aldehydes, narcissus, whiskey, popcorn, musk and vanilla.

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

Sundance is a very feminine tuberose scent, which fails to offer anything new to the slew of tuberose scents currently on the market. Originally inspired by Sundance, Utah, it fails to take me anywhere beyond the confines of the four walls where I first smelt this.

Notes: bergamot, pear, lemon, tuberose, pimento, tiare, iris, sandalwood, musk and tonka bean.

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

I think this is my favourite from Etat Libre d'Orange – an, initially, tart raspberry and vetiver combo that impresses as well as intrigues. The violet note also helps to bridge these two seemingly incompatible notes quite well.

Being very sceptical of this house, I wasn’t expecting to be impressed by any of their offerings but this one certainly deserves a re-visit in the near future. Delicious Closet Queen is also one of the better names conjured up by their marketing department.

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

A very synthetic fruity bubblegum note with some incense...

Next!

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

Je Suis Un Homme is a fleeting citrus, woods, spices and leather eau de cologne, which smells acceptable during the opening but fails to stick around for you to finish your full assessment of it. Personally, there are far better alternatives out there, if you’re really looking for a citrus cologne (especially from superior houses such as Guerlain, Christian Dior, Roger et Gallet, Penhaligons and even The Different Company).

So, you're a man, are you?! More like you're hardly there…

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

Vierges & Toreros is another dry, harsh and mineralic leather scent by Etat Libre d'Orange. The tuberose does add a slight edge to the whole composition but only just. Personally, I’d recommend Aoud Cuir d'Arabie or Lonestar Memories over this.

This house is great for those who have a strong interest in leather scents but not for those looking for something else (especially with a significant degree of substance).

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

Vraie Blonde smells like waking up next to a woman you pulled the night before, while extremely drunk on expensive champagne. You can’t remember how you ended up in bed with her (not that you even fancied her in the first place) but the fact you couldn’t get it up, during the heat of the moment, only made the whole experience seem pretty pointless…

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

Rien is one of the better releases from Etat Libre d'Orange, which starts out with a very strong aldehyde opening but settles down into a woody leather scent. It certainly possesses a mineralic quality (probably due to an almost airy incense accord) with the black pepper being ever present in the background. I also get a slight powderiness throughout and agree with Vibert about the Tam Dao comparison in its later stages.

I’m not a big fan of leather scents but, although it’s a very weird scent, it is quite an original composition. As tigrushka mentioned, Rien certainly wouldn’t be out of place in Comme des Garcons’ Synthetic Series but its almost synthetic and clinical smell is the main problem I have with it. Also, most leather scents that I admire (with the exception of Montale’s Aoud Cuir d’Arabie) possess a certain degree of sweetness that Rien severely lacks, and it’s too dry and grey for me to remain in anyway compelled. I didn’t detect any amber at all but a certain degree of sweetness may have provided it with the sexy aura that is painfully lacks.

It’s much better than Tom of Finland but it’s also nothing that I’d care to smell again.

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

Chocolat Frais is not that much different from Chocolat, apart from smelling fresher...

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

Luctor et Emergo is nothing more than a horribly cheap synthetic take on the whole loukoum / gourmand theme. The cherry smells too sharp and the powderiness is, at times, irritating. Moreover, the Play-Doh accord, which has been mentioned by others, is very evident.

For those looking for a substantial take on this theme, try either Montale’s Sweet Oriental Dream, Keiko Mecher’s Loukhoum or Serge Lutens’ Rahät Loukoum – all three are far more representative of this type of gourmand and much better composed.

[Original submission date: 10 December 2008]

A beautiful bottle, an outrageous price but a very underwhelming juice. Stoned is sweet, powdery and doesn’t particular project much. This is simply a modern (but still poorly executed) Shalimar dupe, without any real edge.