Perfume Reviews

Reviews by ubuandibeme

Total Reviews: 776

Dama by Laura Tonatto

Where have these lovely Laura Tonatto fragrances been hiding? Several different people have recently 'gifted' me with generous samplings of LT creations, and I have to say; they're knocking my socks off! This Dama for instance, is a well crafted blend of notes arranged in a not so usual manner. At the top of the pyramid - SUPRISE! - amber and vanilla! Smells kind of like the opening of Anna Pliska. The middle of the pyramid houses a combination of powdery iris and soapy violet. This pairing lends an aire of femininity and light. These flowers give bouyancy to the heavier topnotes, so the amber/vanilla duo floats on a cloud. Listed too, is opoponax in the base. Giving a good grounding to the entire mix. There's not much evolution happening here, but that's just fine, because the entire composition is incredibly interesting. Dama is a fabulous 'amber' scent to wear anytime of year! Thumbs up!
17th February, 2009

Benghal by Lancôme

First blast is lots of ginger, which is great for me! Refreshing and tea-like. Soon after that mildly spicy ginger settles there is a distinct and sweet juicy peach note that lasts and lasts. The jasmine is in there, mixing with that excellent combo of ginger/peach...I really like this fresh and very fruity floral, comes across bright, it will be great in the heat of summer!
13th February, 2009

Thé Pour un Été by L'Artisan Parfumeur

There seems to be a general concensus here, and I have to jump on the bandwagon and agree. The Pour un Ete shares a distinct similarity with Bulgari's Au The Vert, that is until the jasmine kicks in. At first, the jasmine note is subtle and grassy fresh, then gently builds, transforming into a very indolic nightblooming variety of the flower. I'd have to classify this one as a jasmine soliflore, with only droplets of green tea remaining in the end. Refreshing!
09th February, 2009
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Index Patchouli Pure by Fresh

Patchouli Pure is a very dry interpretation. The first spritz is clearly bergamot - which seems to be the trademark of this house. Suprised to see orange listed in the notes, as I did not detect it at all. The ginger and cinnamon add to the 'herbaceousness'. Nice combination. This is so remarkably dry in character, it gives a sage like impression. An excellent masculine. Finishes clean and slightly soapy.
04th February, 2009

Rain by TerraNova

Clover that's been rained on and powdered! What a fun fragrance, it reminds me of summertime and making flower chains from wild patches of clover that grow in parks and fields throughout the Midwest. As a young girl, I would tie them head to stem and make necklaces, crowns, long chains...they have a very faint, clean, grassy green aroma which is what I get from Terranova's Rain. This scent seems like it belongs in the Demeter line of frags ~ more of a fragrant memory than a wearable perfume. I still like it though.
02nd February, 2009

Chant d'Arômes by Guerlain

This bright and refreshing chypre one of the most wearable you'll find! True enough, it is soft, pale, delicate, gentle, etc. Precisely the characteristic that makes this chypre a stand-out in its' class. I personally have trouble wearing Mitsouko, and also a few other classic, heavier chypres. Chant d'Aromes joins the ranks of "modern chypre" (alongside Chanel 31 Rue Cambon) in spite of the fact it was launched in 1962! Ayala has superbly deconstructed this fragrance in her commentary, I cannot think of any better words to Cd'A. Thumbs up.
31st January, 2009 (last edited: 15th March, 2010)

Nani by Saffron James Parfums

Tovah speaks the truth! Nani is a vibrant, magical jasmine fragrance. Pushing the indoles to the max, it is one of those scents that compels you to keep on sneaking a whiff. Truth be told, I still hold A La Nuit as the top jasmine for me, mostly because it doesn't possess a wooded or musky drydown, but this Nani is a tropical wonder all it's own, wooded musk and all! If you are a lover of white florals, tropical flowers, or jasmine, you MUST experience this one for yourself. I would also describe it as elegant and sophisticated, which for a tropical bloom is amazing! It lasts an eternity. Thumbs up.
26th January, 2009

No. 5 Eau Première by Chanel

Initially, I was very leary of a "new #5". I mean, how do you re-invent the wheel? Much to my suprise, this #5 Eau Premiere is a great fragrance. Retaining the basic genetics of it's mother, EP is born unto a new generation - sans aldehydes and tweaked on the fresh/citrus topnotes. Yet it remains, clearly and undoubtedly #5. Worthy of a full bottle, no question!
23rd January, 2009

Fleur Oriental by Miller Harris

Lilybelle's got Fleur Oriental pegged - Amber * Vanilla * Heliotrope - comforting, powdery sweetness. I don't get much spice either, and frankly I'm shocked to read anyone has found this to be strong or even slightly overpowering at all! These notes perform with restraint. From my perception, I would consider this to be an oriental/gourmand - if there is such a thing, and it comes across decidedly feminine. I'm lovin' this one!
23rd January, 2009

Jitterbug by Opus Oils

Jasmine and honeysuckle introduce Jitterbug. They are of the green grassy variety, like the jasmine found in Keiko Mecheri's brand. No detection of lemon essence whatsoever. Orange blossom distinctively enters after the 5 minute intro is complete. It is fresh, light, a bit unremarkable. The listed basenotes have my mind wandering as I wait for their appearance...which ends up a bit 'un-finished'. My overall opinion of Jitterbug is un-finished as well. Neutral. Just can't be budged one way or the other.
21st January, 2009

Sweet Lime and Cedar by Jo Malone

The combination of ylang-ylang, orange, coconut, jasmine, lime, cedar, pepper, & mint literally turn my stomach. I'd much prefer JM's French Lime Blossom - the one that smells like the 70's Bain de Soleil orange tanning gelee.
21st January, 2009

L'Inspiratrice by Divine

I'm already a fan of the 'rose - vanilla - patchouli' trio, and it is very nicely presented here. It has the same feel as some Rosine's I've sampled. Well blended, the rose is not cloying at all. Almost comes across a little fruity/boozy ~ very rich. Thumbs up.
21st January, 2009

DKNY Red Delicious by Donna Karan

As with real apples, I prefer the green! This 'red' version lives on my skin like any run of the mill cheap fruity floral.
21st January, 2009
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Idole de Lubin by Lubin

WHAT? Olivia Giacobetti? No way. If I had to guess, I would have pinned this one on Serge Lutens/Christopher Sheldrake! There are plenty of apt reviews of Idole. For my nose, it comes across as a love child of Feminite du Bois and Serge Noire. Idole also bends the gender, it's completely unisex IMO. It also smells hot. The spices give it that kick. I love it on myself, and can't wait to drizzle some onto my husband! Thumbs up.
21st January, 2009

L'Homme Sage by Divine

Moltening, Asha & Jenson have said everything I could want to say about this one. It's really a fabulous scent, well crafted IMO.
21st January, 2009

Luctor et Emergo by People of the Labyrinths

I'm with lookinglass on this one. A single puff of delicate sweet incense, delectable vanilla, powdery almond, and even a whisper of pipe tobacco. The edt is what I'm sampling, I find it to be a comforting gourmand. My nose is enjoying the banquet! Dries down to a soft powder which is mild and pleasing. For some reason, in the drydown it brings to mind L'Artisans' Ambre Extreme. Interesting and creative! Nope, no play-doh here.
21st January, 2009

E by Princess Jelisaveta Karadjordjevic

Oh to be a princess! Not of the Disney variety, a real life princess, as in HRH. She has the opportunity to create fragrance, and obtain the guidance and advice of Sophia Grojsman - now THAT's royalty! Upon first whiff, "E" is bright and fresh, slightly flowery. As the day wears on, this perfume remains fresh as a daisy! Clean, soapy florals here folks, not a drop of sweat, spice, or any off color accords. E holds it's regal form throughout it's lifespan, which is long and beautifully lived! Iris in this bouquet lends a powdery softness, to round any sharper edges that might be lurking. This is the kind of scent I had in mind when I sampled Vera Wang's Princess - which BTW was a disappointment. E smells like a princess should smell;
like the freshest, cleanest, prettiest flower in the kindgom!
21st January, 2009

Indu Kush / Hindu Kush by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

Quarry has written an absolutely fabulous commentary on Hindu Kush! For me, I get the initial blast of green - almost camphorous - which disappears almost as mysteriously as it came...yet somehow, it leaves a residual green that combines with dry woods and incense. Maybe because I'm sampling it during a 18 degree blustery winters' snow, it feels like the dry & cozy warmth of a small cabin whose only source of heat is a woodburner! I find this association quite charming. It's character reminds me somewhat of Juozas Statkevicius' fragrance, sans flowers. My personal preferences don't usually run in the direction of incense based fragrances, but I find myself intrigued and impressed!
20th January, 2009

Scent by Theo Fennell

Rose and cumin. These are the only two detectable notes, as they overpower the others. Especially the rose. Ends up smelling like "sweaty rose". Sorry.
20th January, 2009

Firefly by Demeter Fragrance Library

A gentle breeze in the fresh night air, sweet green grass, moist earth, aaahhh one of the best smelling memories I have!
20th January, 2009

Teatro Alla Scala by Krizia

This commentary is written based upon a side by side wearing of Teatro Alla Scala and Coco edp - to which it has been compared.

Before spritzing, I took a preliminary whiff of each perfume's sprayer. The similarities are immediate, although not identical.
One squirt of each, and we're off! TAS instantly comes across with a bold rose note. A much stronger rose than is in the Coco. It also seems to possess a considerably less spicy character overall. I would say the floral blend of TAS is resonating at a slightly lower pitch. As I switch back to smell the Coco, I'm struck by a clearer, crisp floral blend, and there is orange blossom quite evident. Lactonic and 'bright'. The Coco is also noteably spicier. TAS loses it's assortment of flowers, except the rose. It is predominant, and lovely. The major difference between the two is TAS's inclusion of civet. I own, and adore, the civet rich vintage formulation of Shocking. There is plenty of civet in TAS, and I would say it is even more comparable to vintage Shocking than the Coco - overall!

In conclusion, I would classify Teatro Alla Scala as a civet rich floral built upon a chypre base. The Coco is clearly an oriental. Funny though that I love Coco & vintage Shocking. Now I'll add Krizia's TAS to my list of wonderful & wearable fragrances! Thumbs up.
19th January, 2009 (last edited: 17th June, 2009)

If by Apothia

A light citrus/musk with a flowery overtone. That's how I can describe IF. It completely reminds me of Keiko Mecheri's Sanguine. In choosing between the two, I'd most likely go with the Mecheri ~ sans flowers ~ a bit more wearable. If you are in the mood for a light and refreshing change of pace, IF would do nicely.
13th January, 2009

parfums*PARFUMS Series 2 Red: Carnation by Comme des Garçons

Hello, CLOVES! The clove note is so dominant in this fragrance, I really don't sense the rose and jasmine floral that foetidus writes of smelling. A bit sharp and slightly thin, reminds me of a (cheap) scent I smelled about 25 years ago called White Witch - from Jamaica. After about an hour or so, the cloves calm and become less assertive. I would say Comme des Garcons version of carnation is a realistic representation of the flower. I personally prefer a blend, with creamier depth, such as Caron's Bellodgia. Personal taste aside, I must give this flower a thumbs up ~ it's quite good.
13th January, 2009

Coromandel Eau de Toilette by Chanel

My first impression of Coromandel is of a soft and lovely powder. It reminds me of the vanilla powder essence in Kenzo Amour and even moreso of Guerlain's Angelique Noire ~ which is actually an almond/vanilla. In fact, my nose convinced me to check them side by side, and sure enough, the Angelique Noire and Coromandel are kissing cousins! Yes, almond/vanilla it is! There is a playfulness of fruited notes that prevent the composition from becoming dark or brooding. Amber comes across rich, and the entire blend is wrapped with a perfect patchouli. The partnership of Polge and Sheldrake is a dream team if ever there was one!
10th January, 2009

Black Amethyst by Bath and Body Works

This one has actually had some discussion on the fragrance boards...for one, it smells like a complete rip-off of Tom Ford's Black Orchid. Another point that's been discussed is the random 'cucumber' note, which I attribute to the 'waterfruits' and 'crisp melon' listed in the pyramid. All in all, not a horrible scent. But hey, it's just a cheaper version of a higher quality neutral is the best I can give.

I've been gifted with a bottle, and will re-evaluate soon! 10/28/2009
09th January, 2009 (last edited: 28th October, 2009)

Fleur du Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

JPG has given us the first male contraceptive. I swear, I wouldn't be able to stand within ten feet of any man wearing this fragrance, it's THAT bad. Nasty.
08th January, 2009

L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

Does anyone remember Flex Balsam & Protein hair shampoo and conditioner from the 70's? Strangely, this L'Air du Desert Marocain reminds me of Flex! From Tauer's lovely creation I smell incense, and balsam, and vanilla. Dry woods in the base. I can understand the wonder of this gem, but for my own taste ~ it is not particularly wearable. I do find it leans more toward the masculine. If it's incense I'm craving, I'm more likely to reach for Juozas Statkvicius that offers up some jasmine in the mix.
08th January, 2009

Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice by Guerlain

A seasonal wonder! This is one time the note pyramid can be trusted...if you imagine (in your olfactory memory) each of the listed notes you will practically know the smell of this fragrance! It is like mikeperez23 has said ~ ...feels like Christmas in a bottle!
07th January, 2009

31 rue Cambon Eau de Toilette by Chanel

Suprise and delight! A chypre, in the modern sense of the genre', that has completely blown me away. As bbBD, I too am captivated from start to finish. Part of the suprise here is 31rC's longevity...true enough, it is an EDT - wearing close with minimal yet ample sillage - but this stuff is tenacious! As far as the notes in this gorgeous blend are concerned, I'm at a loss of words to describe what I'm sniffing! This is one chypre that is completely wearable - which has delighted me to no end. Without the current use of oakmoss, the chypre genre' has suffered greatly. That being said, 31rC is a miraculous masterpiece. Even the most ardent lovers of oakmoss will be able to appreciate 31rC. It is decadent and luxurious - but remains ethereal. Lactonic and rich, an absolute dream. Honestly, I could almost drink this perfume...Jacques Polge + perfumery = genius!
06th January, 2009

Miss Dior Originale Eau de Toilette (previously Miss Dior) by Christian Dior

They just don't make 'em like this anymore, was my initial thought upon sniffing precious drops of vintage Miss Dior. I couldn't wait to get this stuff onto my skin. Cool chypre leather. A brilliant composition forever lost to unavailable real oakmoss and high quality labdanum. The opening is only slightly sharp, then a flood of mossy greens wash through, introducing a careful blend of carnation, iris, jasmine and rose. Leather too, and plenty of it! Not aggressive ~ but steady, deeply womanly. To my nose it smells aged and dry, very pleasant. This quiet treasure is among the greats like Mitsouko and Coty's Chypre. Dated? Maybe. I see it more as a timeless classic of monumental worthiness! (* djuna and purplebird7 have written excellent commentaries on Miss Dior)
06th January, 2009