Perfume Reviews

Reviews by ubuandibeme

Total Reviews: 776

Punono by Saffron James Parfums

If you enjoy the pikake flower, this frag is sure to please. I agree with SirSlarty about the over ripe banana in the top notes, kind of pungent and fermented. Punono is strong, and somewhat exotic. I personally don't care for pikake, as it reminds me of a bad public restroom freshener. Difficult to wear. As for the Saffron James offerings, Nani and L'ea are much more to my liking and equally unique.
03rd January, 2009 (last edited: 17th June, 2009)

Powder Flowers by Montale

Keiko Mecheri's LOUKHOUM meets Chanel's NO.5! Aldehydic almond powder with a sheer floral backround, that's about the best description I can give! I have also tried Sweet Oriental Dream from Montale and find Powder Flowers more wearable, not overly sweet.
02nd January, 2009

Notorious by Ralph Lauren

As Zibeline has so aptly noted, this Notorious is retro in feel (and presentation - the bottle is the cat's pajamas!) as a lovely cool and woody floral. What I love most about this elixir is it's wearability. While there are plenty of scents with distinct notes and bold characters, Notorious is one that begs to be recognized up close. It's beauty draws you closer...I find it compelling!
31st December, 2008
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Gendarme by Gendarme

Undoubtedly the most "soapy clean" male fragrance I've smelled to date. It is true what others have said, about it being weak and lacking longevity. A point to consider: I have a friend whose wife hates fragrance on men, and this one doesn't bother her at all! I guess every product has it's place. Anyway, it reminds me instantly of Philosophy's Amazing Grace. Gentlemen, if you are going to visit a friend and hold their newborn baby in your arms...or perhaps comfort someone with closeness and hugs...this fragrance will not offend! I also find it to be unisex. Citrus + verbena = freshness in a bottle. (BTW, I get no leather here - even though it's listed.)
14th December, 2008

Vanille by L'Aromarine

When I sniff my wrist I imagine marshmallows being toasted over a slow burning campfire ~ comforting and yummy! I'm really into the burning wood aspect of this fragrance. Simple, and I'm lovin' it!
08th December, 2008

Geranium Bourbon by Miller Harris

Opens with strong green geranium, a touch of booze, and then becomes a cloying rose. The kind of rose grandma wears because her sense of smell is so very weak...yuk.
06th December, 2008

L'Invisible by Strange Invisible Perfumes

I get a very sweet, overly indolic ylang-ylang. This is not for me. Also fades quickly.
06th December, 2008

Route Mandarine by Manuel Canovas

There is only one word to describe this perfume...COCO (and the Chanel IS superior).
05th December, 2008

Aomassaï 10 by Parfumerie Generale

Toasted hazelnuts, caramel and licorice open this stunning gourmand with flair! Not too sweet either. Enticing and amazing, just can't help but snorfle my wrist! Soon after these sweets have tickled my palate, the warmth and smokiness of incense & spice slowly come forth. Underlying is a constant wafting of balsam, keeping balance with vetiver and 'dried grass' accord. If ever there was a scent offering "tidings of comfort and joy" - this is it! Clever, well crafted, bottle-worthy!
02nd December, 2008

Central Park by Bond No. 9

Many years back, when I was a young girl, my father used a product called Skin Bracer by Mennen (at least I think that's what it was!). Anyway, this aftershave was marketed with a slogan something like, "...a cold slap in the face...". When I first smelled Central Park, all I could think of was watching my dad slapping that lime scented green juice onto his face and neck after his morning shave! Cool, refreshing too, lime and bergamot for sure! 'Bracing' is the only suitable adjective for the bright citrusy green topnotes! Although not listed, the middle portion of this tonic clearly contains rose. Not heavy or spicy, more like rosewater - serving to soften the sharper edges as Central Park transitions into it's base. The drydown is oh so smooth, and soft too. Cedarwood in the base preserves the cool character of this frag and nicely compliments the rest of the composition. The patchouli is clean, like in Bond's Nuits de Noho. I would suggest if you are a fan of Eau d Hadrien by Goutal, Central Park might be right up your alley. Also, if you enjoy a bright and refreshing fragrance - this Bond is more than worthy of a sampling!
29th November, 2008

Poivre Piquant by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Poivre Piquant is a unisex scent featuring white pepper. Notes of milk & honey add a mild sweetness, but for the most part, it's all about the pepper! Dry, which I love on my husband! I can't help but draw comparisons with Hermes Poivre Samarcande - which is superior in my opinion. (But the Hermes is also more than double the price!) Somehow Jean Claude Ellena's light-handed genius is showcased beautifully in the Hermessence line - sheer, transparent lasting beauty. It's almost impossible to beat THAT! L'Artisan's Poivre Piquant is a bit more 'dense' than the Hermes. Worth a test though, especially if you enjoy a good solid note of pepper!
29th November, 2008

Kashâya by Kenzo

Kashaya suspiciously smells like a twin sister of Lagerfeld's Sun Moon Stars. Did a little search and found out they were both created by perfumer Sophia Grosjman. Guess what else, they were each created in 1994 - or at least launched in '94. Another coincidence is the list of fragrance notes for each:


Bergamot, Clementine, Apricot, Hyacinth, Wild Rose
Jasmine, YlangYlang, Muguet, Cattleya, Coriander, Plum
Incense, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Amber, Musk

Sun Moon Stars-

Peach, Mandarin, Freesia, Waterlily, White Cloud Rose
Heliotrope, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Narcisse
Sandalwood, Amber, Musk

Hmmmmm, Fruity/Green floral/Rose variation/Indolic whites/Sandalwood-Amber-Musk. Sort of leaves me scratching my head. From reading these fragrance notes my mind would probably never have put them together (as being essentially the same)...but my nose does not lie! They are twins ~ even if fraternal, this discovery is actually disappointing. I do like this fragrance, as well as the Lagerfeld, but will give it a neutral to reflect my attitude about fragrance cloning. I just feel duped.
25th November, 2008

Jasmin Noir by Bulgari

Glad to smell Bulgari putting forth a fragrance outside the Fresh or Tea genres! Jasmin, mmmmmmmmm, definitely indolic. A bit dirty and fleshy here in this juice. Sexy. I'm not getting any licorice or almond here, but that's okay. Along with this fine sexy jasmin is tonka. Rich, full, and grounded. The tonka contributes another dimension to this scent, and it's really a nice pairing! Overall, Jasmin Noir reminds me of the indolic orange blossom/night queen flower/tonka combo of Dior's Addict - only simplified. This is the perfect winter jasmin, love the bottle too!
24th November, 2008
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Nanadebary Green by Nanadebary

GREEN is the perfect name for Nanadebary's spritely fresh fragrance! When it comes to green notes, they seem to run in a very wide range from higher pitched citrus type brights to the lower, deep and resonating bass tones of galbanum & moss. Nanadebary's Green is of the upper register. Opening with a breath of freshness, this one holds onto that high note the whole way through. Gotta love that! It also has a tea like quality, although there aren't any tea notes listed. Upon first whiff I'm instantly reminded of Bulgari's Au The Vert. They have a similar feeling, feature bergamot in their opening phase, and strangely, they also share the note of cardamom! NG ultimately is brighter and more lemony in character than the Bulgari, and overall a bit less complex. If free wheeling freshness is what you're craving, Nanadebary Green just might satisfy.
23rd November, 2008

Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Violet by Marc Jacobs

Ahhhh, the quirky sweet and powdery note of violet...I adore this version, and it is very appropriate for the cooler midwestern Autumn weather! Decidedly feminine, smelling reminiscent of Carons' champagne bath fragrance. You know, these "splash" series frags from MJ are meant to be light. Refreshing. Not like a perfume or extrait. They softly impart a hint of fragrance, and I for one am glad to own a few! Thumbs up, for achieving what it was created to achieve.
19th November, 2008

Sanguine by Keiko Mecheri

Venturing outside my flowery 'comfort zone', I've found that Sanguine is quite pleasant. Citrus and musk are not at the top of my wish list, but in this blend they are delicate and refreshing. Applied to the skin, musk dominates and the citrus fades too quickly. When applied to clothing, Sanguine's soapy fresh blood orange citrus lasts and lasts! I did say soapy. The citrus here is extremely clean, and bright, yet it remains subdued and lives in harmony with the musky base. Well balanced and user friendly, I'd recommend trying this for an easygoing change of pace.
17th November, 2008

Damascena by Keiko Mecheri

Damascena is a pretty and extremely feminine rose scent. It is fruited and tinged with spice. What I really like about the Keiko Mecheri range of fragrances is they are not sugary sweet, yet they are sweeter than say Annick Goutal's creations. For some odd reason, the roses in Damascena remind me of the mild rose notes within Rive Gauche by YSL. This perfume exudes an aire of class, but youthfulness too. Not your grandmother's rose ~ very wearable!
17th November, 2008

Patchoulissime by Keiko Mecheri

Foetidus is exactly correct; Mecheri's is a softer, gentler patchouli. Which is precisely why I love it! I'm ecstatic to have found a patchouli that leans more to the feminine. A bit less raw, yet still dry and earthy - slightly sweet. Thankfully, there were no florals added to this elixir, now Patchoulissime can play together with a slough of floral fragrances! If you are a 'patchouli devotee', this one may disappoint. For some men, this one may be too mild. For me, this patchouli is just right! Full bottle on it's way ~ two thumbs up!
17th November, 2008

Macadam by Il Profumo

Notes from Luckyscent website: Jasmine, Peony, Pitaya, White Rose, Amber, Myrrh, Patchouli & Sandalwood.

Though not listed, the opening of Marcadam comes off as a blast of licorice! I adore anise/licorice notes in my fragrance and this one not only suprises, but satisfies! My only complaint is the topnotes fade much too quickly. After that attention getter, the flowers burst forth in a creamy bouquet, drying down to an ambery sandalwood base. This fragrance ends up on my skin almost exactly like Casmir by Chopard. Rich, cozy & classy.
16th November, 2008

White Jasmine & Mint by Jo Malone

Mint, mint and more mint. Then a bit of minted jasmine. Then, a little more mint.

This was my JM White Jasmine & Mint experience. As a fragrance note, I don't personally enjoy mint. I think this is why many Creed's have been off putting for me, as many of them seem to contain that blasted herb. Bulgari's Au The' Verte also seems to possess the dreaded mint - but for some reason the Bulgari is likeable. Well, at least the jasmine here is beautiful. It is dry, which is to say "not sweet", and very fresh smelling. All prejudices aside, this is a unique and lovely combination. Close wearing with decent staying power. Easily unisex, I actually might prefer this one on a man.
13th November, 2008

Fleur de Liane by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Fleur de Liane is a vibrant green patchouli, fern-like and verdant! I detect a floral heart, bright in character and somewhat similar to lily of the valley yet non-descript. Slightly acquatic as well. Patchouli in the base for sure! In fact, the patchouli outlives the green essence of this edt by a mile. At first I thought it boring, but after wearing it for the day it leaves me feeling refreshed as I catch a whiff every now and again. Thumbs up, but still not completely certain if it's full bottle worthy.
09th November, 2008

Andy Warhol Lexington Avenue by Bond No. 9

Bond No.9 has completely copied:

Christian Dior's Dolce Vita
Shiseido's Feminite du Bois
Serge Luten's Bois de Violette

Mostly, Dolce Vita - as this Andy Warhol Lexington Ave. favors the sweet in the spectrum of sweet/fruity/woods.
It is nice, but I can only give it a neutral as it is a clone ~ several times over.
04th November, 2008

Olive Flowers by Madini

What an interesting creature! First impression: This must be a cross between Tabac Blond and Shalimar.
Well, if there's going to be any crossbreeding, those are two of the finest. Olive Flowers is an 'oriental perfume essence' that begins with a bit of an "off" note, for me at least. It comes across as cinnamon, but paired with oppoponox, very different. As it dries down, I'm enjoying it soooooo much better! It is deeply rich and leathery, like Ernest Daltroff's 1919 creation (Tabac Blond) yet it possess a smooth and ambery warmth akin to Jacques Guerlain's 1925 treasure (Shalimar). It's been so long since I've sniffed a "new" frag that has such substance, Olive Flowers is exciting, gutsy, dramatic & mysterious.
04th November, 2008

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by Guerlain

This is a fairly unique take on citrus! I adore the grapefruit/floral blend here because the grapefruit remains the star, even as the rest of this bright, fruity composition reveals itself! As it wears on my skin, I'm reminded of Ralph Lauren's Pure Turquoise - I believe it's due to the patchouli mixed with brighter topnotes...mmm it's good. Funny too, how the grapefruit notes are described as 'acidulous', because there is a definite acidic tone, which adds to the realistic impression of the grapefruit. For a lighter fragrance, the lasting power of AAPamplelune is very good, and somewhat unexpected. I'm not sure if I'd buy the full sized bottle, but I do have a mini that suits my citrus needs just fine.
03rd November, 2008

Fairy Dust by Paris Hilton

Gave this one an obligatory sniff at the department store smells like Juicy Couture's original fragrance. My daughter immediately declared it "a complete Juicy rip-off", so there you have it.
30th October, 2008

Ma Dame by Jean Paul Gaultier

Odd. I do detect the smell of cold know, the old fashioned kind that smells of lanolin and rosewater. Plasticky and synthetic for sure. Sorry, I just cannot wrap my senses around this frag.
30th October, 2008

Loukhoum by Keiko Mecheri

KM's Loukhoum smells like almonds dipped in rosewater then rolled in confectioners sugar! There is a powdery sweetness that rests better on the skin than Montale's Sweet Oriental Dream - which like Trebor says, is toooooooo sweet! Mecheri's Loukhoum is more like Annick Goutal's Vanille Exquise to the 10th power, or at least to my nose! I love that this parfum possesses the warmth and closeness of a vanilla based fragrance without coming across as a traditional vanilla. Upon repeated sniffing & snorfling of my wrist, there is also an association in my memory of the original formulation of Heaven Sent. I think it's the powderiness and touch of rose. This is undoubtedly a winner, and one of the very best blind buys I've ever made!
29th October, 2008

With Love by Guerlain

Bought this blindly, due to Quarry's review, and I'm here to say ~ she's right on the money! I'm quite finicky about the scent of roses. Paris by YSL was a longtime favorite, but now seems a bit dated. Guerlain's With Love is easy to wear, especially nice too, that it is an eau de toilette. Extremely polite, not cloying whatsoever. Grab some now, while you still can!
27th October, 2008

Serge Noire by Serge Lutens

Mikeperez23 has written my thoughts on Serge Noire very accurately! I will add to his review, that SN reminds me of how the final crackling embers of a bonfire smell, and for all the notes of smoke, spices, and honeyed woods it possesses a remarkable balance! After giving this one some quality wear time, I can tell you it is extremely dry and the wood notes dominate. I would also suggest this particular fragrance be worn a minimum of 3 times before casting judgment.
25th October, 2008 (last edited: 17th June, 2009)

Secret Obsession by Calvin Klein

This smells familiar was the first thought in my mind after sampling Calvin Klein's newest offering. The opening of Secret Obsession is fruited with the scent of plums. Now, from my own personal olfactory experience, many times notes of plum, peach and apricot smell very much alike to me. In this case, SO's plummy top note smells like a twin to the note of apricot found in Daim Blond by Serge Lutens. After observing the fruit, some flowers burst forth. The floral heart of this blend is very pretty. It is gentle and well blended. In fact, I'd say it's a stunning cool weather blend of jasmine, orange flower and tuberose. Secret Obsession's base also suprises me. It is very much like Shiseido's Feminite du Bois, and also the rich woods in the 'bois series' of Serge Luten's range. I think it's alluring and memorable. Since I already own Daim Blond and Feminite du Bois, I will hold off on purchasing SO until my supply of those two dwindles. For those of you who enjoy the Lutens frags, but haven't yet purchased them, I'd say hold off on doing so until you try this perfume. It is not just a 'substitute' - it is completely comparable! Absolutely bottle worthy, two thumbs way up!
24th October, 2008