Fragrance Reviews by wicozani

Farnesiana is an almond, fruity, floral scent that, like most of Caron's classic scents, must have been pushing the envelope when it was first marketed in 1947. The extrait parfum version, as expected, lasts a long time but oddly did not make much of an impression with me. In general, I'm not a fan of either almonds or fruity notes. Plus, it will be difficult for any other Caron urn scents to truly wow me, because both Tabac Blond and Poivre are truly ne plus ultra in my book. Nonetheless, Farnesiana, like all Caron urn scents, sports excellent
longevity if somewhat muted sillage (again, for a Caron urn scent).

Wicozani

Mattie, the SA, splashed the En Avion extrait all over her palm, like with a men's cologne splash, and literally drenched my right wrist with it, the precious extrait dripping onto the floor! As a result, I had a great opportunity to follow its development for the next five hours, until I fell asleep.

En Avion is a serious leather scent, and to my nose is a touch dated when compared to either Tabac Blond or Poivre. Yes, there is some carnation, rose, and cloves in En Avion, but nothing like the fireworks in Poivre. Yes, too, there is lots of leather in En Avion, but different from Tabac Blond. En Avion smells like plasticy, chemically-tanned leather, versus the vegetal-tanned, suede-like leather in Tabac Blond. They are undoubtedly related, but Tabac Blond is the more resplendent of the two. Please don't mistake me, En Avion is a classic fragrance in the best sense of the term. However, Tabac Blond and Poivre happen to both represent the ne plus ultra to me, thus tempering my appreciation for En Avion.

Wicozani

"Sir! What a fresh, sparkling Eau du Cologne you're wearing today, and is that a hint of tuberose that I'm smelling?"

So bloody perceptive my valet! I can't seem to pull anything over on him recently!

Tubereuse 40 is Le Labo's SoHO Boutique exclusive store scent. As explained to me, Le Labo will be establishing boutiques in other cities this year, and they are committed to produce a unique scent for each store that will be available for purchase only at that store; not at any other store and not through their website. Tubereuse 40 is the exclusive scent developed for the SoHo boutique. I have been on quite a tuberose kick as of late and Tubereuse 40, while said to have a 30% concentration of essential oils, amazingly smells like an Eau du Cologne. There are some very longlasting hesperidic topnotes (> 6 hours) blended with a subtle tuberose. It is a beautiful and enchanting scent. It stays pretty close to the skin, especially when compared with Vetiver 46. It is in the vein of Guerlain Eau du Cologne Imperiale, with tuberose, but it lasts so much longer than the beautiful Imperiale. Incidentally, the number in each name of Le Labo's scents signifies the number of different ingredients in that composition (i.e., scent).

Wicozani

Yes indeed, Naed_Nitram! A few minutes after sniffing Insensé for the first time the ghost of Nino Cerruti Pour Homme came to my mind as clear as day. I even told Mack, the cunning SA at the equally stunning perfume kiosk at the mall the same thing; I swear! This was just on a scent strip and not my own skin. I would be bowled over to learn that there is NOT any musk in this scent. I shall accord this a neutral, in lieu of one day actually wearing this.

Wicozani

"Sir, have been smoking while taking a bath in your beloved concentrated lemon juice again?", chirped my very able but sometimes annoying valet.

"Very funny, Holmes. Though I cannot and will not deny my eccentricities, I have opted to wear the inestimable citrus elixir from the House of Balmain this day."

Simply put, for its price, Monsieur Balmain is a stunning scent! It opens with the most concentrated burst of bitter citrus you're likely to ever experience. On my skin, after an hour, the citrus recedes and an ash-like note appears; very dry and dirty, like an ashtray. However, after one more hour the citrus note returns to the fore, where it stays for hours fairly close to the skin. There is just enough dirtyness in Monsieur Balmain to make it appropriate for cooler weather, something that cannot be said about many citrus scents. I like this better than Blenheim Bouquet, imho its closest competitor. IMHO, there is too much piney character in BB.

Wicozani

"Sir, that is as unique a scent as I've ever appreciated on you," stammered my trusted valet! "There is a melange of notes that is harmonius, soothing, and very, very attractive!"

Un Cèdre by Serge Lutens in EDP Haute Concentration strength is a beautiful blend of cedar and tuberose, with significant spices, cloves, amber and musk. The topnotes are dominated by a spicy, floral opening. Cinnamon and/or nutmeg mix with cloves and tuberose, with cedar and amber blending in. As others have noted, cedar never assumes center stage here, and that's just as well since there are already some superb cedar-focused scents available. As the scent progresses the tuberose and spices recede, replaced by a woodsy, ambery, musky drydown. This drydown is longlasting and impressive! I like this one from beginning to end!

Wicozani

My assistant hadn't even seen me turn the corner yet, but my whereabouts apparently preceded me.

"Sir, donning the old smoking jacket so early in the morning?"

MCM Success is a powerhouse 80s fragrance, yet worn cautiously it remains quite pertinent even today, and I find it a real treat to wear! While there are some floral elements to the top- and mid-notes, the dominant notes to my nose are tobacco and leather. In this vein, it is similar to Creed's Tabarome, though not quite so dry as that classic scent. The earthiness of patchouli is also present in MCM Success, along with vetiver and moss. It is a very masculine scent, and I should definitely wear it more often.

Wicozani

"Sir, have you by chance layered your Mark Birley over the top of Caron's classic Eau de Toilette for men?", my trusted valet asked me, once again betraying his exceptional nose, perhaps better even than mine.

Impact opens softer than PuH with respect to the sour lavender note, but with an airy, ozone-like nature not unlike Mark Birley for Men. Ironically, however, Impact holds the lavender note longer into the evolution, until it is gradually replaced by vanilla and late entrees by both amber and musk. The airy, ozone-like character rapidly diminishes about 30 minutes after application. Impact is less complicated than PuH, with none of the citrus topnotes of the classic EDT, nor any sage or rose that I can perceive. While this is certainly unoffensive and likable, it stays very close to the body and does not have very good longevity for an EDP strength scent. For these reasons, I must assign this a rather rare neutral mark.

Wicozani

Eyebrows raised, quizzical look on face, my trusted assistant stammered..."Sir, did you by any chance dare to mix your sample of Burberry Brit with some saffron oil?"

I was finally getting a chance to try this new release. I was quite excited to do so, based on the olfactory pyramid that I had taken notice of. I was very impressed at first application; my assistant should have smelled it then! Quite surprising was the extant of citrus I could appreciate, along with pleasing floral, musk, and myrrh notes. This goodness lasted all of about 20 minutes, and thus began the quick slide into middle-of-the-road, amorphous sweetness. I could not appreciate very much amber accord, nor much woods, nor any vetiver. Perhaps all these notes are there, and just seamlessly blended. At any rate, the drydown strikes me as moderately sweet and fruity, though I fail to see any fruits mentioned in the notes. It's not that sweet, but the combination with the fruity accord renders it similar to Burberry Brit, or D&G By Man (minus the spices), or many other sweetish, fruity scents. While many will like this a lot, I'm sorry to say that I do not.

Wicozani

"Sir, I am quite gladdened that you're staying in tonight, for that is quite the grotesque, schizophrenic cologne that you're wearing!"

I couldn't blame my assistant, for I fear that I have gotten him hooked on smooth, deftly spiced orientals, and the masterpiece that is Mémoire d'Homme will never look good in such a straightup comparison. Indeed, after I uncurled my own nose after first smelling this scent, and set about to concentrate more deeply, I was also very unsure. However, Mémoire d'Homme rewards the patient examiner, and it is rewarded itself by comparison to the new kid on the block making waves, Terre d’Hermès. Mémoire d'Homme has grapefruit, that fickle citrus with the sulfurous tendencies. However, this doesn't prevent Guerlain's Pamplelune from being a beautiful, bright scent. No, Nina Ricci, through Christine Nagel (Quest), does the unthinkable and smashes the note straight away into liquorice leaf, which sours it even more! A healthy dose of ginger soon appears, spiced with nutmeg, which are then joined by dark and brooding woods and vetiver sap. What the !@#$? It is shocking, and utterly unique, or so I used to think.

That is, until I compared it to my recently acquired Terre d’Hermès. Suddenly, Mémoire d'Homme makes all the sense in the world! While overall a bit darker than Terre, Mémoire is actually rendered beautiful in the comparison, it's juxtaposition of notes clarified, and rendered interpretable. Both scents are enriched with this comparison, and I urge everyone to try to compare them straight up.

Wicozani

Ah, Terre d'Hermès, that brash new kid on the block! Holding up pretty well under the glare of the bright lights, I should say. Though he is of gangly legs and puffs up his chest a little too much, he is suitably humble and built out of strong stock.

I consider Terre d'Hermès a very good, if not great, new release. The simultaneously bright and sour grapefruit citrus note is tempered or blunted just a touch with a sharp metallic, or flinty note. For comparison, the grapefruit here is not as bright and clear as in Guerlain's excellent Pamplelune. A faint hint of pepper leads into a nice, discrete drydown, which introduces soft woods and vetiver. Overall, I think this is very well done, and will stand the test of time. For a while I didn't think that I'd smelled anything quite like Terre d'Hermès before. That was before I compared it with Nina Ricci's Memoire D'Homme! Both scents are enriched by the comparison, and I urge you to compare them also.

Wicozani

"Sir, have you taken to layering your Santal Noble with something else?" I thought that Terre de Bois might just confuse my assistant, for it is very hard to pigeonhole!

After an initial sharp, alcoholic opening, Terre de Bois settles down beautifully with vetiver, galbanum, juniper, and sage most apparent, supported by a deft touch of spices, ambergris, and patchouli. It is not unlike Santal Noble, though with no sandalwood to speak of and without what I perceive as Santal Noble's refreshing minty topnote. If the Terre de Bois EDT is this good, I've got to imagine the parfum might just be 'da bomb!

Wicozani

"Why in the world am I not wearing Nicole Miller for Men more often?" This is an amazing, unique scent that I just have to get another bottle of to serve as a backup. This fruity (presents me with an "orangy" effect), boozy, leathery, slightly sweet, sandalwood, oakmoss, and musk elixir is incredibly comforting to wear, perfectly balancing opposites as has already been noted. Nicole Miller for Men strikes me as a cross between Michael for Men (or D'Orsay Le Dandy) and Trussardi Uomo, all other scents I really like as well. However, Nicole Miller for Men is unique enough not to be duplicitous with these. Really, really nice! Get it while it's still available!

Wicozani

It was some time since I'd been around such a changeling! My valet was simply besides himself, "Sir! Have you REALLY changed your cologne three times today already? It isn't even past noon." I was quite amused myself, never having quite appreciated Caron's Third Man in this way before.

Sir Yvan and I seem to have very similar reactions to this fragrance, for I was bowled over by the sweet, fruity topnotes. Had I really been sleeping all the previous times I wore this? Not two hours later, most of the fruitiness leaves, replaced by an evolving powdery phase with a touch of spice and florals. After several hours this phase then changes to a woodsy, incensy, musky drydown, always staying distinguished and fairly discrete. I agree that this could double for office wear very easily, but it could also work in all manner of situations. Funny thing, but the packaging for my clear bottle reads "Le 3e Homme de Caron." Whatever, go out and try this fascinating scent!

Wicozani

I must say that I was expecting more out of Imperial Jade Emperor. We were promised a scent unlike anything else, but this turns out to simply be marketing-speak. Imperial Jade Emperor is basically a sweet, fruity, floral scent underscored by subtle woods, and evocative of quite a few other scents; namely Gucci Envy (IJE is sweeter than Envy), Laguna Homme (has an aquatic note that IJE doesn't have), Jaipur Homme, and Burberry London. Don't get me wrong, this is very nice and of excellent quality and lasting power, but it is hardly as unique as we are told.

Jeff

I'd been toying with my valet for some time now, wearing all manner of obscure and discontinued scents for several weeks. He's a real bugger, though, and was rarely put off the correct trail. This would be no different, for as soon as I turned the corner out of my dressing room he burst forth; "Fabulous choice, Sir! What with the warm sun, your special mint and Earl Grey tea a brewing, and the sandalwood sachet on your dressing room counter! To have you wearing Jazz Prestige again truly warms this curmudgeon's heart."

Jazz Prestige is an obscure gem, sparkling with an effervescent mintiness amidst the bergamot, tobacco and sandalwood! This is quite different from the excellent "standard" Jazz in a very complementary way. Jazz Prestige "feels" closest in character to L'Artisan's Tea for Two, especially at the outset. There is also a touch of rose, and while not listed I believe there to be some patchouli in this one, too. This is an overall excellent scent, and one that I should wear more often.

Wicozani
Jeff

Puzzling over what to wear, my hand instinctively reached for Lauder for Men, despite not having worn this in many moons. What seemed normal to me absolutely shocked my noble assistant. "Sir, I'd nearly forgotten what a remarkable scent this is! Truly the Santal Noble of its' time and, I should say, every bit its equal and then some!"

This classic 1985 scent opens with an harmonius lead of citrus, green notes, florals, woods and spice, with musk also present; artful. As this progresses, the woods and musk, with a little spice, assert themselves and turn this scent in an even more masculine direction with excellent duration! Truly should be tried by everyone.

Wicozani

Kicking off my holiday trilogy with Hermes Rocabar. This has been a favorite of mine ever since its release (1998), especially during the colder months. Heavy in fir (cypress, balsam and juniper), cedar, nutmeg, and cinnamon, it balances these elements beautifully without ever becoming too sweet or cloying. I find it somewhat similar to Cartier's Declaration Pour Homme, especially the Essence version. Rocabar will bring in some vanilla toward the end, which will extend the fir and spice notes while adding a little depth. It lasts very long, especially on clothes.

Jeff

Krizia Uomo is a classic Italian men's scent from 1984, and is a powdery herbal containing marjoram, lavender, coriander and is accented with jasmine, leather and musk. There is little to no citrus in this one, which is a bit surprising. As RCavs points out, it is quite strong in the Bogart One Man Show tradition, but imho is better than OMS. Aztec was also right when he said that this is the antithesis to Acqua di Gio and related scents. And that's a good thing. Krizia Uomo has a very good duration and feels at home at the office as in more casual situations. Definitely should be sought out and tried by lovers of Italian "Uomo" scents.

Jeff

Molinard Vetiver EDC is quite nice. It has the focus on the vetiver, which is slightly earthy and smoky, with touches of tobacco and patchouli. It is fairly subtle, and not sharp and raw like either Route du Vetiver, or “shaggy” like Lorenzo Villoresi. There is also a slight hint of a maple syrup-like smell (amber?). The Demeter Vetiver also has this maple syrup-like accord, but is downright sickly when compared directly with the Molinard. Like the Etro, this compares most favorably with the L’Artisan version, only being slightly smokier and with the aforementioned maple syrup smell.

Wicozani

Fragonard Vetyver EDT is a very different vetiver, and is a smoother, woodsy vetiver scent, not unlike Carlo Corinto Vetyver, but without ever reaching the powerful soapy stage that the CC does. There is a potent lemon note that runs through the top and middle of the Fragonard, and then the pine needles pick up the slack and propel the fragrance forward both powerfully and smoothly. On direct comparison with the CC Vetyver, the Fragonard is surprisingly similar, with slightly less woods than the CC and, as noted, without the surprisingly strong soapy phase that the CC evolves through. Overall, very nice.

Wicozani

My trusted valet was stunned. "I never thought I'd smell anything that even faintly resembles Route du Vetiver!", to which I replied "Me, either, but darned if they aren't similar, eh?"

[b]Vetiver by Floris EDT[/b] is a most surprising vetiver scent! I did not think I would ever experience another vetiver like Route du Vetiver, but these are in fact in the same neighborhood. Vetiver by Floris opens with the second most sharp vetiver note of all of these vetiver versions, only behind Route du Vetiver. It is braced by cedar and sandalwood and a faint hint of spice. It stays quite sharp through its evolution. The principal difference that this reviewer finds between Vetiver by Floris and Route du Vetiver is that the latter has a black current note that is lacking in the Floris, and overall it (the Floris) is a tad softer than RdV. Definitely very nice, and like the Etro in the upper crust of those I have experienced.

Wicozani

"Sir, you obviously like the L'Artisan Vetiver, for you are wearing it again!"
I couldn't blame my trusted attendant, for they are very close, but today I was wearing my Etro Vetiver EDT for the first time, and an enjoyable experience it was!

[b]Etro Vetiver EDT[/b] is a very nice vetiver scent. It opens with a strong, earthy, true vetiver note that is dry. It then evolves fairly straight, always staying pleasant and true to its vetiver roots. It lasts a good long while. This is not a “shaggy”, overpowering vetiver like Lorenzo Villoresi’s, but is quite close in character to L’Artisan’s Vetiver. Indeed, I compared the two straight up and they are very close, the primary difference being that the L’Artisan does have some citrus in the topnotes that the Etro does not. Overall, definitely a very nice vetiver scent, and in the upper crust of these versions.

Wicozani

"That's a bit different from your typical Eau d'Cologne, eh Sir? What is it?"
I hadn't stumped my humble assistant with a scent in some time. Indeed, I just received a bottle of this and was wearing it for the first time.

Uomo? Moschino opens with a slightly sweet, moderate herbal/floral/citrus accord with hints of spice and woods. The citrus notes disappear after about 30-60 minutes, the floral/herbal notes extending the scent into the spice and woods. It is very harmonius and should serve well and uniquely amidst the raft of other typical office scents (Bulgari PH, Lanvin L'Homme, any Kenzo, etc.). I guess it is quite typical of Italian scents, like Krizia Uomo and Biagiotti Uomo.

Wicozani

"Ah, Sir, you are transporting me back to those days near the Rue St. Germain with your scent today! What on earth is it?"
Though he has worn nothing but Acqua di Selva for the past several decades, my valet stuns me often with his uncanny propensity to properly ascribe provenance on the various scents in my collection, even new ones like this Feuilles de Tabac.

This is simply quite a scent. Unabashedly masculine, yet perfectly appropriate for the fairer sex. There is no tobacco, per se, at lest not like D&G PH, Cuba, or even Guerlain Vetiver. Rather there is use of cascarilla oil, which is steam distilled from the bark of Croton Eluteria, which grows in the West Indies. The oil's color is a pale yellow to greenish yellow or dark amber. It has a strong, spicy, aromatic, warm woody, peppery, nutmeg, myrtle type odor (the preceding information from the Good Scents Co.). This scent is masculine in the same vein as Le Dandy from D'Orsay, though the two are nothing alike. In other words, this isn't masculine like Paco Rabanne, Sung, Aramis, or any of the otehr "typical" masculine scents; and I consider that a good thing. According to Lucky Scent, this scent has Cuban cascarilla oil, pimento berries, pine needles, sage, tobacco, tonka bean, and Malay patchouli. Seek out and experience for yourself. Enjoy.

Wicozani

"Either you spilled some of that effervescent ginseng and lemon-lime spritzer on yourself, or you're wearing Green Irish Tweed today! So, which is it, Sir?"

Ah, Scent Synchronization Day, and Green Irish Tweed is being worn the world over. GIT opens to my nose with a potent citrus/fruit/green accord. This initial blast is good for about one hour and lots of sillage. This then settles down, the fruity note recedes, and the citrus and green notes blend into one another very harmoniously and aromatically. As it evolves further, a touch of ambergris, sandalwood, and vanilla round out this scent. I've had a full bottle for some time, but rarely reach for it, despite its excellence, and I wonder why. I do not have and really don't recall Curve or Cool Water, so I'm not sure what the buzz is regarding these two and GIT. Of scents I am familiar with, GIT is sort of like Guerlain's Coriolan and Goutal's Duel, both featuring lemony citrus with violet/iris notes. In all, a superb scent, and I must start wearing it more frequently to do it justice.

Wicozani

"Sir, donning the old baby powder today, are we?"

Yerbamate on my skin is pure Johnson's Baby Powder! Amazingly similar. And just like baby powder, what can you really say? It's pleasant enough, even a little nice to smell. But is certainly is not unique, or singular, or strong, or stunning, or any one of thousands of other adjectives. It just is.

Wicozani

"That's a clean, green scent, Sir! Are you wearing your Coriolan again?"

Vettiveru is a very nice vetiver scent. It is quite straightforward, with a clean, soft vetiver note throughout, accompanied initially by what seems like both green olive and soft floral notes. Now five hours later it is still noticeable, and the base remains predominantly vetiver with perhaps some cypress or cedar, and incense. The character of this vetiver scent is strongly "green", as opposed to "brown", and indeed the greenest vetiver scent I've experienced. This will be a good thing for lovers of "green" scents. Overall, an intriguing and arfully prepared vetiver.

Wicozani

The newer version of Carven vetiver, on its own terms, is simple and inoffensive. The vetiver is light, the citrus topnotes (which look strong fro the pyramid) weak and fleeting, and the remaining notes suitably blended into an amorphous, dull base. When cast against the pantheon of other vetiver scents, Carven vetiver quickly capitulates.

Wicozani

"You've got a winner there, Sir, if I may!", my faithful valet told me the other day, a quizzical look on his face.

Carlo Corinto Vetyver (NOTE: this review is of the earlier Vetyver, but there is no listing for it in the Directory) is an incredible surprise! It is full, rich, powerful, smooth, woodsy, and earthy. Thirty minutes in, and it generates a little soapy character, while after 2 hours it is both stronger and noticeably soapier. After 4 hours, Vetyver is stronger than when first applied, wow! After 8 hours, no sign of Vetyver letting up, and at 12+ hours Vetyver is still hanging on, with a very powerful patchouli and/or sandalwood base that just won’t quit! Carlo Corinto Vetyver is an amazing old-school fragrance that is a brute of a powerhouse!

Wicozani

"Don't tell me!", my faithful attendant instructed me, "Let's see, very spicy, holiday-like...it must be L'Eau de Navagateur from L'Artisan!"
"No, my good man, but an excellent guess! This is the very rare Bayrhum Vetiver from our good friends at the House of Creed."

I've never seen this discussed before. It opens with a real kick of spice, sans pepper - sort of like Chai. This is fairly short-lasting and then a nice, earthy vetiver note emerges, not unlike Goutal's Vetiver. I like this just fine, but the initial spiciness does little to accentuate the vetiver, which is my real attraction; definitely worthy of trying, however.

Wicozani

"Going old school today, eh Sir, with the old soap-beneath-the-armpits-for-deodorant-trick?", to which I replied "You'd think so, only this is a highly regarded recent frag from our dear old friends at Creed!"

OV on my skin is a soapy citrus frag with only a modest hint of vetiver. After the first 15-20 minutes the soapiness starts to recede and the vetiver steps forward, only to reverse course after another 20 minutes. The soapiness is intriguing, and on initial application I didn't think it would last very long. However, it acquitted itself very well, as it deepened and hung on nicely with excellent sillage; truly a well-crafted scent. Overall, however, there is not much vetiver. I do not like it as much as my dear Guerlain Vetiver, but any vetiver fan should search this out to try it, based on its depth and sillage alone.

Wicozani

My attendant scarcely knew what to say. "Um, that is certainly from left field! What on earth is it?"
"Why, it's Vétyver Haiti, and it certainly is different, I'll say that much."

This vetiver is unlike any I've tried before. It is both soft and creamy, but also somewhat dark, spicy, and earthy. It is quite strong when first applied, but not at all sharp like Route du Vetiver or Vétiver de Puig. There seems to be a maté-like note as well, and it has pretty longevity to boot. A very interesting take on vetyver and certainly worthy of a try.

Wicozani

"I'll assume you're still trying different vetiver scents, Sir, but this one is definitely NOT the one!"

Pure Vetiver from Azzaro is sadly misnamed, for there is precious little vetiver to be found. It is also very light. I applied a full 1/2 of my full sample vial and it is scarcely noticeable four hours later. This vetiver has a slightly fruity, though chemical accord, and in that is a bit like Vetyver L'Homme from Lanvin. Indeed, they are both equally unimpressive if vetiver is your passion.

Wicozani

"Sir, I must compliment you on your choice of a great toilet water from the past!"

Agua Lavanda is one of the finest, most refreshing colognes even today, though its heritage is over 60 years old! Citrus (principally limes, to my nose) and Lavender feature in this one, and they are artfully handled. They both sprint out evenly, and as the citrus recedes the lavender steps forward, accompanied by masculine though subtle boosts of sage and cedar. For an EDC, longevity is surprisingly good, and ultimately musk and tonka (vanilla) discretely provide a base. However, this scent is refreshing from start to finish, and I can give it my unequivocal recommendation!

Wicozani

"What IS that you're wearing, Sir?", my good man asked, continuing with "In the 90 minutes you've been getting ready it has changed character three times!"

New York is a chameleon scent on my skin. It opens with a large but very short-lived dose of citrus (think YSL PH Haute Concentration for initial impact, though not longevity). This is followed by entry into a surprising powdery phase that begins to subside after 90 minutes, but never disappears entirely. There is cloves and a touch of thyme, cinnamon, black pepper, and pimento in the midnotes, and amber and vetiver in the base. The amber is deftly handled, the scent never getting very sweet on my skin. Overall, it is artfully blended, and with the exception of the citrus opening no other feature stands out besides subtle, discrete harmony. This could be a good thing, or for some people a not so good thing. Definitely try to sample before purchasing.

Wicozani

"Sir, though I've not known you since 1972, is that Pour Monsieur from Cardin that you're wearing?"
"Why, yes, apparently I've been napping all these years and just yesterday received my first bottle of this classic. Judging by the sparkle in your eye, I'd say that you like it!"

What a surprise indeed! Pour Monsieur is a very solid, discrete, masculine scent that hooks you with a brief citrus opening, before plunging immediately into the solid and harmonious middle notes. Chief among these, to my nose, are leather, carnation, and very soft sandalwood and patchouli. Another famous scent with leather and carnation (among many) is Habit Rouge, and PC PM is not terribly dissimilar, mainly lacking the orange note in addition to not being as sweet as Habit Rouge. Pour Monsieur is also more discrete than Habit Rouge, staying closer to the skin. I am very impressed, and more than a bit disappointed that I've waited so long to experience this one!

Wicozani

"Sir, did you reach to the far back for your Coriolan once more?", my trust attendant inquired.
"Why, no, though I can see the resemblance. This is my newly received Loewe Pour Homme; do you like it?"
"Indeed! Very classy that one is."

Wow, is this Spanish EDT ever nice! A crisp, refreshing citrus opening is followed by a floral/herbal middle, and then a subtle ambery musk follows! Very harmonious, this classic scent from 1978!

Wicozani

This is a wonderful niche scent filled with mystery and wonder! It starts out heavy and gourmand-like, with an oily character and scent quite similar to Terre de Bois from Miller Harris. Santal Noble goes through a very long evolution, eventually losing the oily character, but retaining a heavy, gourmand quality. This scent lasts and lasts, the sandalwood growing sharper just as the amber weighs in for support. This is very nice, especially for cooler fall temperatures.

Jeff

"Doctor, if I may, what is [i]THAT[/i]?", my valet asked me this morning, eyes wide open. I replied, "This, my good man, is a classic in the making, and we shall ensure a steady provision of this scent for a long time to come; for it is none other than sparkling sun rays from our quirky friend, Senor Dali, infused with aromatic citrus and fragrant woods. It is a long-lasting Guerlain Imperial crossed with Cartier's Declaration."

Wicozani

"That is a [i]fine[/i] way to step aside from all the vetiver you've been trying lately, Sir!", said my valet, obviously pleased in an olfactory sense with my selection for the day. And he should be, for Blu Pour Homme is a wonderful newer release.

[b]Blu Pour Homme[/b] has a lot to recommend it, from the ginger and cardamom opening, underlined by juniper, to the langorous evolution that features wood, tobacco, and musk, Blu Pour Homme is evocative, luxurious, self-assured, and appropriate for nearly any occasion. Another big hit from Alberto Morillas and our friends at Bulgari!

Wicozani

"That's an old classic, Sir! I'll presume you're still trying your vetiver samples. I've smelled it before but I can't quite place it. Certainly agreeable enough, though." Once again, my valet succinctly sums up my own thoughts on the matter. However, I didn't get to my position without a certain amount of compulsion, so I should say a little more.

[b]Vétiver de Puig EDT[/b] is a very interesting vetiver scent. It opens with a little citrus (less than Guerlain, for instance) tinged with a slightly sour green note that I perceive as celery. Indeed, this scent is reminiscent of Nina Ricci’s Phileas. I happen to have a vintage mini of Vétiver de Puig and this celery note is very magnified, set in a somewhat sweet base, like an overoxidized wine. The liquid of this vintage mini is also considerably darker than that in my recent decant. In all, there is a quiet authority in this old scent, which is long-lasting, and certainly should be tried by all lovers of vetiver.

Wicozani

Annick Goutal's [b]Vetiver EDT[/b] is nice enough, though quite simple and fleeting. It opens with a reasonably strong, smoky, salty character with a hint of spices; no citrus is apparent. Unfortunately, it disappears on my skin within 3 hours after a linear, unimpressive drydown. A brief description of the notes per Sephora.com: Java Vetiver, Rare Wood, Burmese Spices, and Sea Salt Aroma. I much prefer my Guerlain Vetiver, which lasts twice as long and presents a beautiful, evolving drydown.

Wicozani

"Hmm? Marinus oceanicus meets citrusy woods, eh, Doctor?" Unknowingly, I've come to realize that I've cultivated a pretty decent nose in my valet, only to have this value-added character work against me on those evenings when I try to work clandestinely without my valet's knowledge. But in this case, yet again, he was close to the mark. I couldn't fault him for not knowing the name of the scent I was wearing, for I was trying it for the first time myself. However, I've tried on several occasions now, and developed a pretty solid impression of it.

The word "classic" has been used to describe this fragrance since its release in 1996. I do not quite see this, however. This scent opens with an odd, airy, ozone-like lead, through which citrus eventually emerges. I'm coming to see that many of the scents that I perceive as having an ozone-like character (which I do not particularly care for) have some measure of carrots in the. Anyway, this scent stays very light and close to the skin; perhaps I should use more than 6 sprays? Through the lemony topnote a complicated set of smells emerges, which are hard to identify individually, though vetiver is somewhat apparent. Luckyscent.com describes the composition as thus: Sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, musk, vetiver, carrot seeds, leather, lemon, bergamot, mandarin, violet, incense. Unfortunately, it does not last long enough for me to appreciate the sandalwood, patchouli, incense, and musk basenotes - it only lasts about 3 hours on me. Definitely worth a try, and perhaps it projects and lasts much better on others' skin.

Wicozani

"Have you been cleaning up the ashes in your kiva fireplace again, Sir?", my trusted assistant inquired perceptively.

[b]Vetiver EDC[/b] from Santa Maria Novella, is a shocker for an EDC. It is strong, powerful, scorched-earth arid, dry, and earthy. Not even a hint of citrus. While it is not as “sharp” to the senses as Route Du Vetiver, it is nearly as shocking, and definitely more arid and dry; I would not have thought that possible. If you love vetiver and dry, arid colognes, this may be your ticket. In sum, this is surprisingly strong EDC vetiver scent, very powerful, and extremely dry, earthy, and arid.

Wicozani

"It's still a bit warm to be wearing your Pour Monsieur Concentrée isn't it, Sir?", inquired my valet. "With all respect, my good man, it is evening, isn't it? And anyway, I'm trying out an older fragrance for the first time, and from Paloma Picasso, no less!"

[b]Minotaure[/b] is a warm, sweet, citrus/fruity scent that provides me with the visual analogy of a unicorn. For in the middle of this warm citrusy sweetness protrudes an awkward herbal note, which is probably the lavender and/or geranium. This note juts out and lends a subtle sourness to the topnotes of the scent that may be appealing to many. Overall, the scent is very similar to both Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée and Caron Pour un Homme. Not bad company to keep! I have to test it in cooler weather, for it might strike me differently.

Wicozani

"Retreating to the comfort of your trusty Imperial this morning, Sir?", my equally trusty assistant inquired. "You'd think so, wouldn't you?," I replied, having thought the same only moments before.

[b]Vetyver EDC[/b] from Roger & Gallet, bursts forth from the bottle with citrus, citrus, and more citrus, with very little perceptible vetiver. It's nice and fresh and clean, to be sure, it's just not much of a vetiver scent. Indeed, after 15 minutes it smells just like a slightly weaker Guerlain Imperial EDC. Between the two, I'd take the Guerlain for it lasts longer, but what you can smell of the R&G is certainly pleasant enough. In sum, this is pleasant citrus fragrance of short duration with little perceptible vetiver.

Wicozani

"Nipping at the 151 again, Sir?", my valet asked, inquiring whether I'd been recently taking a nip at the 'ol 151-proof grain alcohol again. "Why, it's been years since I've done that, and you should know that!", I replied.

[b]Route du Vetiver[/b] bursts forth from the bottle unapologetically strong and surgical-blade sharp. There is a very raw sharpness to the Bourbon Vetiver root note (not unlike grain alcohol), which is buoyed by blackcurrant and a woodsy accord; the scent itself is zen-like in its simplicity. The jasmine, sandalwood, and musk all wait about 90 minutes to begin their appearance, and when they do this scent magically balances out and sets itself up for a protracted, impressive drydown! Route du Vetiver is stronger than Guerlain's Vetiver, but with literally no citrus. With respect to the LV Vetiver, an analogy would be appropriate. If Lorenzo Villoresi Vetiver is a big, strong, frisky, shaggy-haired Wolfhound, then Route du Vetiver is an equally large, sleek-fur, strong, aggressive Doberman pinscher. In all, I must admit I'm beginning to understand and admire this scent, after being absolutely turned off with my first exposure to it. Every lover of vetiver should be sure to try this. In sum, this is great and possibly a real contender for the Grand Prize.

Olfactory pyramid per Lusciouscargo.com:

Top Notes: Black currant, leafy green accords
Heart Notes: Bourbon vetiver, precious woods, jasmine
Base Notes: Sandalwood, musk

Wicozani

"Are you wearing that Route du something-or-another again, good Doctor?", my assistant asked spiritedly. He is a good one for powerful, no-nonsense fragrances, particularly on me for some reason, while he, on the other hand, revels in fruity, floral kinds.
"Very keen this morning, Holmes, but you're off just a little, for I'm trying Vetiver from our friend Lorenzo Villoresi for the first time."

LV Vetiver bursts forth from the bottle unapologetically strong, smoky, and masculine. There is a raw sharpness to the vetiver root note, which is buoyed by bergamot. The sandalwood and pepper start to make their appearance known in the mid-notes, and lend an appealing smoky character to this scent. It is roughly as strong as Guerlain's Vetiver, but without nearly the citrus, and is not as harsh and raw as Route du Vetiver. In all, an excellent scent worthy of an extended try.

Wicozani

"Good night, Doctor, and [ahem] good luck, for you're a cheetah on the prowl I should say!"

Funny my valet should have spoke this to me the other night, for I was certainly feeling the same. That is, until [b]Musc Ravaguer[/b] stalled out in the mid-notes and became cloying with its ambery sweetness. My kitten didn't seem to mind, indeed not one bit, but I truthfully grew somewhat tired. The musky, ambery, vanilla, tonka'ish mix also had a faint artificiality to it. I'll try it again, and though the response was everything I could have hoped for, I didn't enjoy the scent itself as much as I thought I would.

Wicozani

"Gone without today, good Doctor?", my valet asked me at the noon hour. [sigh] "You'd think so," I replied, "Except that I was trying to wear something, and it's turned into the vanishing act!"

[b]Vetyver[/b] from L'Occitane, has a moderatly strong, earthy vetiver note out of the bottle, not unlike L'Artisan's Vetiver. While there is also the hint of some spices and other woods to this scent, alas, it's duration on my skin was so brief that I sneezed and missed the show! Many of the great reviews in the Directory speak highly of this scent, including its duration, but it has been...[red][i]poof[/i][/red]...gone on my skin after 2 hours.

Wicozani

"Now that's the old spirit, Doctor!", my valet enthusiastically burst forth. "That's more like it!", he added. Yes, there have been some scoundrels and disappointments among the many vetiver scents I've tried recently, but he really seemed to connect with this one.

Vetiver from L’Artisan Parfumeurs is great straight out of the bottle, with a strong, earthy vetiver note; very pure, though not as sharp as Route du Vetiver (which is a good thing in my book). The bourbon vetiver, derived from the roots, is joined by oakmoss and patchouli. In other words, there is no citrus here to speak of. The liquid is also quite dark compared to other vetiver scents. I would compare it most similarly to Vétyver Haiti from Comptoir Sud Pacifique or Carlo Corinto Vetyver. L’Artisan Vetiver also has a good, though not great duration. In sum, this is one of the better vetiver-based scents I've tried, and more extensive wearing is warranted.

"Continuing your uncharted traipse through vetiver-land, Sir, or did you forget to apply any fragrance this morning? You're absent your usual scented vapor trail."

There are rate times when I think my valet is just a bit too smart and cheeky for his own good. But, more often than not, when I think a little more, I realize he is correct far more often than not. The Lanvin website, with a surprising amount of detailed information, notes that François Robert from Synarome was asked to update this scent for modern times (it was first made in 1964 and discontinued), and that 10 of 14 raw ingredients are all-natural, including the alcohol. While an update has certainly happened, I would be pleased to experience the original in order to know if this was an improvement or not, for Vetyver L'Homme, in addition to being soft and understated, is somewhat fruity and slightly sweet; not nearly as evocative as its pyramid would suggest. Indeed, Vetyver L'Homme is downright uninspiring IMHO and, hence, probably just right for many office settings!

Wicozani

"Doctor, have you been preparing celery sticks again for your diet?", my noble assistant asked me. "My good man, what at first sniff smells like celery, is in fact the most noble and sadly discontinued fragrance, Phileas, from our dear Nina Ricci."

[b]Phileas[/b] is an outstanding fragrances and I, too, am very happy to have this among my flock. As has been noted, this scent is solemnly herbaceous, with a prominent, masterful celery note leading the way. I imagine this could have been a scent that would have been easy to go astray with during formulation, but whomever perfumer did a masterful job! Beneath the celery and herbs are delightful woods and subtle spices, that never quite eclipse the celery, which is quite astonishing. Definitely a must-try for the serious fragrance aficionado.

Wicozani

"Ah, wearing your beloved Nino Cerruti Pour Homme again, Sir?", my valet inquired of me, to which I repied, "Not quite, but I can see why you would think so. I'm tangling with quite the beast here, aren't I?"

[b]Ébène (1983)[/b], from Pierre Balmain, is one amazing scent, very masculine, and long-lasting. There are quite a few different notes, that together are not unlike Nino Cerruti Pour Homme. However, Ébène is even more difficult to find than Cerruti PH. The dominant tones are leather, musk, and amber, but bolstered on top and in the middle by the herbs, flowers, and spices. This classic is dense and "oily" in character, like many Serge Lutens fragrances. Despite the amber, labdanum, and olibanum, Ébène is not really sweet. What a chameleon of a scent! [smiley=shocked.gif]

Wicozani

"You've gone Old School today, um, Sir. Boy, does that bring back some wild and wooly memories, eh?"

I always enjoy my valet's candor, a quality that is sadly on the decline. More often than not, however, he's on the mark, including the present case. The original [b]Calvin[/b] EDT from Calvin Klein is unabashedly masculine, very dry, and bordering on powdery. The neroli is most prominent straight away, and then the herbs, spices, and musk take over. Not as musky as Eau d'Hermes or Nino Cerruti Pour Homme, mind you, but plenty musky nonetheless. Vetiver comes through on the drydown, and it is rather sharp. A classic 80s-era frag that imho should be on everyone's "to try" list.

Wicozani

"Sir, that is a sparkly little number you're wearing today! What is it?", my valet enthusiastically asked me.
"My good man, that is Vetyver from Jo Malone, and I'm trying it for the first time. It is quite bubbly, isn't it?"

This scent is great straight out of the bottle, with sparkling citrus leading the way over the top of a very subtle vetiver. The Jo Malone website notes that vetiver “is blended with sweet orange, nutmeg, and tarragon to create this powerful, mysterious fragrance.” True enough, I can appreciate the spices, though they too are quite subtle. Unfortunately, as has been my experience with other Jo Malone scents, Vetyver quickly tapers off and after just 120 minutes I can barely appreciate it. However, all in all I like it quite a bit and, given the chance to reapply a couple of times each day when worn I think this could be a winner!

Wicozani

"Doctor, are you developing a cold?", my able assistant asked me last night. "I ask because you smell like you might have applied some linement to your chest."
"No, my good man, I'm testing yet another fragrance this evening, Elite from Floris and, yes, I can see where you might think it medicinal."

This scent cannnot quite figure out what it wants to be. It is quite vile when first applied, like stale champagne the morning after. It soon settles down, though this is of only very modest benefit. Containing fresh grapefruit, bergamot, lavender, tuberose, oakmoss, and woods (Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vetiver), Elite is indeed quite sour, and aromatic to boot. There is a minty, or menthol-like note that is given off, thus evocative of liniment. I suspect this is due to the combination of the tuberose and grapefruit. In any event, I don't see what all the hub-bub is about, and am happy I only acquired a decant to try.

Wicozani

"Sir, what's happened to your Habit Rouge? It smells [i]different[/i]."
"Yes, indeed, my friend, for I am not wearing Habit Rouge, but instead I am trying Fracas for Men. For years women have been up in arms over their Fracas, and I decided to see what all the fuss was about with their men's scent."

Fracas for Men is an eau de cologne, and a strong one at that! The notes include mandarin, lavender, sandalwood, vetiver, orange flower, basil, and musk. It is a very difficult fragrance to characterize. The best analogy I can use is that it smells "sleek and silky." It is very aromatic after first applied, but tones down quickly and settles into to a long duration for an EDC. I wondered if there might be some tuberose in it, but apparently not. The lavender and sandalwood are perhaps most evident, with the other notes subordinate. It almost comes off sort of medicinal and/or soapy; this is what I infer when I use "sleek/silky" to characterize it. This is not like anything I have experienced before, and Habit Rouge is probably the best, though mediocre, approximation.

Wicozani

"Sir, it would seem you've, um, toned it down a bit? Is that rose that I perceive?" My valet was sharp and on the money, as usual. After recent samplings of such polarizing scents as Bulgari Black and Gucci Pour Homme, I am trying a rather more conservative and subdued scent from Carthusia. The history of this perfumer is certainly romantic, and the fragrances they produce are high quality. The notes in [b]Carthusia Uomo[/b] are described as wild raspberry, rosewood, and kelp. All are believable, yet this scent is not fruity or sweet in the least. More than anything it is a bit salty, herbal, and flowery, and I can also detect some musk. It is quite solemn, this scent, but somehow solid and quite evocative. The real star here is the rosewood, so if you love this note this may be your perfect scent. It strikes me that similar scents in general character that could be worn in similar situations include Lanvin L'Homme, Bulgari Pour Homme, and Kenzo Pour Homme. Enjoy!

Wicozani

"Sir, have you been burning mesquite wood in your bedroom's Kiva fireplace again?", my trusted Lieutenant inquired of me. "Why, no, venerable assistant," I replied, "I can scarcely believe the scent generated by my new fragrance, Gucci Pour Homme, for it does smell just like mesquite wood burning in a Kiva fireplace in northern New Mexico. Ah, how I long to experience the wonders of northern New Mexico again!"

Only Gucci Rush, from the same stable, smells anything like Gucci Pour Homme, and that's a good thing. This is often referred to as cedar in character, but I don't appreciate any cedar, rather mesquite, and then the pyramid states "papyrus." Yes, there is also pepper and cumin, donned with a light touch of vanilla. Overall, a strong, polarizing scent, that I reserve for fall/winter.

Wicozani

Looking quite puzzled, my assistant uttered "Sir, I didn't think you had any more powdery scents." I went on to explain that I had recently received a decant of this long-discontinued scent from Nino Cerruti, and was trying it for the first time. Thus, he was very proper to have made the observation he did. Fair Play goes on as a fairly sharp citrus-herbal scent, and then magically morphs over the next 20-30 minutes into a powdery herbal/woodsy scent, featuring the basil, lavender, bergamot, and pine. It's still going strong after two hours and has yet to reach its basenotes. Overall, this is a very intriguing scent with few peers in my experience.

Wicozani

"Monsieur, have you been grinding your own coffee beans in the middle of the night again?", my valet asked me this morning.

"No, my good man," I replied, "I just put on this new vetiver scent from Jo Malone called Black Vetyver Café. Do you like it?"

"While I don't drink coffee, I can smell this aspect of the scent and it is charming. However, it seems to be fading fast, Sir, and in no time there will scarcely be anything to smell!"

I couldn't argue with him, for yet again he was spot on, this scent, while beguilingly charming straight away, lacks the lasting power that would really distinguish it and turn it into a contender. As it is, Black Vetyver Café pales against my cherished Guerlain Vetiver, which vanquishes it with stunning power, bravado, and persistence.

Wicozani

"Sir, either you're wearing your rubber latex underwear again, or you've spilled a considerable amount of Russian Caravan tea on your person." As usual, my valet had a point, for these were my thoughts as well, but the truth was that I was trying a new fragrance again for the hundredth time, [b]Bulgari Black[/b]. I was prepared to be startled, but it wasn't as bad as I thought, certainly more tolerable than that headache-inducing CDG2 Man. The resemblance to black rubber latex mixed with vanilla is unmistakable, but after a while you also begin to appreciate the smoky tea note. At this point, if you're a tea lover like my valet or I, Russian Caravan will spring to mind, as opposed to Lapsang Souchong. The Lady of the house is traveling presently, and this is a scent that I shall need her approval to wear anything other than very discretely. For this reason it must deal with a neutral rating for the time being.

Wicozani

"Sir, if I may, that is as aggressive and odorous a scent as I've known you to wear." So spoke my valet to me today. I replied, "Well, you've a point, for I just received a big bottle and am trying it out, and the exceedingly sharp opening note, replete with incense, is certainly assaulting my our noses." One Man Show is aptly named, for there is probably exactly ONE man who is madly in love with this scent. The very forward bergamot and incense is, unfortunately, also joined by one of the strongest soapy characteristics imaginable. It's not exactly cloying, for it basically knocks you out straight out of the bottle. Even if on first trying you actually like this, I would recommend a very spare application.

Wicozani

"Sir, have you been eating the pimentos out of the center of your California olives again?", my valet asked me the other afternoon, eliciting some surprise on my part. "No," I told him, "I'm wearing Kenzo Pour Homme today, and there are no pimentos to be found anywhere." Kenzo Pour Homme is quite a warm, herbally, spicy scent, reminiscent of seaweed, the ocean, and pimentos. Very powdery and evocative of salt. Ozone leads the topnotes in the pyramid but, thankfully, I do not appreciate nearly as much ozone as L'Eau par Kenzo, for instance. Also, I'm surprised by the resemblance of this to Rive Gauche Pour Homme! I thought Rive Gauche to be singularly unique, but this Kenzo Pour Homme is VERY similar. In all, a fine scent, and damn fine if he was trying to construct a scent to mirror the ocean, with seaweed and salt. However, it is a bit askew from favorite types of scents.

Wicozani

"Doctor, if I may, that is one severe scent," uttered my valet the other morning, "sort of like the smell of the finely engraved barrel of your custom shotgun right after being polished." I shouldn't have been startled, for he has long known that it is alright with me if he speaks his mind; after all, he had a point. Noir Epices is sharp, cool, and calculating, in the same way that Iris Silver Mist from Sheldrake/Lutens is. Very dry, yet deep, ebony woods and crisp, dry spices. There is said to be a hesperidian note in this scent somewhere, but it just isn't clear to my nose. Apparently not to my valet's, either. In any event, this is a richly made fragrance perfect for a sober and/or solemn occasion.

Wicozani

"That's some serious citrus accord, Sir!" my valet noted as I stepped out of my changing room. "Yes, my good man, I'm ready for the day!", I replied, confident in my scent selection for the day.

[b]Tangerine Vert EDP[/b] from Miller Harris is a wonderful scent that, despite its tangerine moniker, would be great year-round. The scent opens with a tangerine-laced citrus accord, that quickly incorporates a fine herbal mix, and that is solidly underscored by cedar and musk. Though the topnotes calm down quickly, this is an EDP, and so there is a subtle but weighty feel to it, despite the fact it is not really sweet at all.

One fragrance website describes the notes as thus: Sicilian green tangerines, grapefruit, citron, marjoram, geranium, orange flower, cedar, moss, musk.

This is a wonderful scent and suddenly on my radar for a full bottle. There is really little overlap with anything else I have, including Colonia Assoluta, Eau de Rochas Pour Homme, and Monsieur de Givenchy. These are all excellent scents, too, just different.

Jeff

"You smell, um, interesting," was how my valet put it after my first try of this powerhouse parfum; and that was the next morning, mind you! CdG EDP is not for the faint of heart, that is for sure, but you will be treated with a very high quality, powerhouse of a scent, certain not to smell like those around you. There is an initial spicy profusion of a blast! Apparently cardamon leads, but the other spices in the mix make it evocative of cloves to my nose. These spicy headnotes last and last, finally allowing the labdanum, olibanum, cinnamon, cedar, and black pepper to emerge. In other words, yet more spice! I personally like the effect a lot. Two shots low on my thorax and I still get lots of sillage. This would probably be best for fall/winter days, but like Tigrushka says, if you've got a cold use it anytime, for I imagine it really does have medicinal properties.

It's fall and you are slowly traipsing through your gardens, the day overcast with mist in the air. The last of the plums from the overhanging tree are ready to fall to the ground. The old rose bushes, their woody roots exposed and aromatic, have yielded the final petals of the season. The petals, in turn, have fallen to the freshly overturned, slightly damp soil. You close your eyes and take a deep breath, and are enchanted by the fragrant milieu.