Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by Wordbird

Showing all 68 reviews

Incense Extrême by Tauer

Here's what the creator, Andy Tauer says about this fragrance:
"I wanted to create an incense that is intense and clear.
A minimalist, cubist interpretation of incense, a touch of spices, powdery orris, dry cedar wood and ambergris supporting the frankincense that is rich, crisp, red and intense."

He did it. Though I swear that when I spritzed, the first note that hit me was a really true and pure lavender. (I do love that classic lavender/incense combo. It just works somehow.) Anyway, that disappeared after ten minutes and now it's wearing in, the pure, clear incense is the whole thing. Beautiful.

I'm quite picky about my incense and this is superb. There's no rasp to it (my beef with Black Cashmere) and it's not too dry and ashy. But equally, there's no sweetness to it and no flowers. This is completely unisex. I like the comparison with CDG Avignon, though I haven't worn it in a while.

It's obviously related to L'Air du Desert Marocain, but it is slightly different. As if the melody was played with a key change. This is a little bit quieter, I think. (I also haven't worn L'Air for a while.) It is certainly beautiful and very mellow and I think enormously wearable. I may need a bottle.
20 November 2009

L'Instant de Guerlain by Guerlain

Gentle, easy-going and pretty. Not at all taxing.
None of those attributes are negative.
This is a great perfume to choose for a gift for a non-perfumista. And the Guerlain name is a nice little glam-bam on top.

But for 'one of us'? Hmm.
I prefer L'Instant Magie, the slightly woodier flanker.
16 November 2009

No. 23 by Ava Luxe

A fabulous scent with an unusual scented-geranium-leaf note that lasts well and is fabulous in hot weather. I have worn this so regularly since I bought it early in the summer that it has almost become a signature scent. And I have no scientific evidence for this, but I swear I have been bitten by fewer mosquitos this year.
Yet more wonderful quality perfume from a fabulously inventive perfumer.
15 November 2009

Purple Fantasy by Guerlain

Perfectly nice, very polite, but like Brielle, I was left uninspired.
I like a rose and sandalwood blend well enough but... I want more than this from Guerlain. If I smelled this blind I would think it was lovely and gentle and a jolly good creation from a massmarket perfumer like Coty. I mean - this is what a celebuscent really ought to smell like, as opposed to the ghastly fruity hairspray things some of them put out.

So to sum up: not terrible, but not good enough for Guerlain.
02 October 2009

Arpège pour Homme by Lanvin

Yes it's sweet. But that should just encourage us ladies to give this one a try. I think it's a very nice woody fragrance with a bright and sweet top that isn't too much (this is not L de Lolita Lempicka or Aquolina Pink Sugar). There is a watery accord in the top notes that some might find offputting, but this sees to pass off completely to let the woods shine out. And there's none of that 'aftershave accord' that haunts so many masculine frags and puts me off wearing them in public.

I think this is a very nice woody feminine. I like it better on me than the women's version of Arpege.
06 September 2009

Vamp by Ava Luxe

You may think of sandalwood as a serene, contemplative, even spiritual fragrance, but that's not the way Serena plays it in this perfume. Here it's animalic, lusty and luxurious. A powerful oriental, with all that implies (apply lightly at first, reserve for evening wear etc etc) this is a testament to the extraordinary talent of this young woman. Frankly, it's filthy; but in the most classical and refined way. Wear to the opera, not to church.

01 July 2009

Prada Tendre by Prada

So light it's not really there. I love the list of notes and hoped this would be a real corker, but it's as if the perfumer has taken too much inspiration from Jean-Claude Ellena and diluted everything down to homeopathic levels.

Very polite, perfectly nice. Utterly wearable for any polite occasion: office, church etc.

Thinking about it, this might very well be a good choice for younger women as an alternative to the sugary/fruity things they seem to get served up nowadays as 'what all the cool kids are wearing'. I think an ideal 'starter' scent, especially for girls who are not keen on flowers, fruit or sweeties and want to smell good but not overpowering or citrusfresh. Buy this for your daughter and start her on the path.
26 June 2009

Miranda by Fragonard

I adore this. It smells of summer and sunshine, but you can quite happily wear it in cold weather.

Well-composed and intricate, it isn't a simple 'suntan lotion' scent, so don't let the coconut fool you. It's a beautiful perfume from a fragrance house that is often overlooked.

I definitely recommend this, but if you're new to Fragonard, I suggest visiting their website and ordering a set of samples - excellent value for money and a great way to try a very good range of scents.
21 May 2009

Secret Obsession by Calvin Klein

I have a little theory about Secret Obsession. I think it is a Feminite du Bois knock-off.

For the first few minutes of "plums and woods" it's a dead ringer for FdB, I swear. But I am not overkeen on FdB anymore - I find it too big, too radiant and too loud - I actually prefer Bourdon's reworking in Dolce Vita and think it works better as a baseline. Here though, it's been used as a melody with woody musks as a base and some of that strange salty note shared by Eau des Merveilles, Lolita Lempicka and Gres Cabaret, to cut the sweetness of the fruit.

I find it immensely wearable. Just when I am starting to tire of the big fruit and wood opening, the salt cuts in and saves it, plus it wears close to the skin and doesn't do that FdB massively radiant thing which I struggle with. And it's a damn sight cheaper. A good result all round as far as I'm concerned.

This is a modern feminine oriental that isn't tarty or tacky and is aimed at women over 25. Hoorah! No, the longevity isn't huge, but that's not actually a bad thing. You can wear this to the office knowing you won't make the classic 80s gaffe of gassing everyone in the room with your fragrance. And if you want to make more of an impression after lunch, you can always reapply.
21 May 2009

Libertine by Vivienne Westwood

Gentle and soft without being sweet, Libertine feels like a spring day.

It's not what I'd usually buy, but I think this is a great daytime scent. Perfect for office wear, it's gentle and inoffensive and stays close enough to the skin not to interfere with colleagues.

24 April 2009

Dior Addict by Christian Dior

A gigantic sweet vanilla bomb. I absolutely love it and think it's a wonderful vanilla. (And I've tried a lot of them, including the niche stuff.) Don't let the fact that it's widely available put you off trying it.
10 April 2009

Dolce Vita by Christian Dior

Pierre Bourdon's reworking of Feminite du Bois (which he co-created with Christopher Sheldrake). Every ounce of Bourdon's classical training under Edmond Roudnitska shows through here. He takes the fruit and wood (cedar and plums) of FdB and uses it as a bassline, adding a pretty melody of fruit and flowers to give it a more goodnatured and sunny character.

If like me you find FdB a bit too big for you, try Dolce Vita. It's a lovely perfume at home at any time of the year and well worth seeking out. Something of an underrated gem, I think.
10 April 2009

Yatagan by Caron

Hubba hubba!

Bathroom cleaner, creosote, wood, more wood, pine needles and butchness. This smells like a forest. And possibly also a lumberjack. It really is good.

I'll be wearing it and to hell with the consequences, but I do wish I could bump into a chap sporting this cologne. I'd probably follow him down the street. And into a bar. :)
25 March 2009

Tocade by Rochas

I expected something 'pretty pretty' from all the rave reviews of Tocade, but it's much more interesting than that. There's a salty quality to it that reminds me of Eau des Merveilles and the Lolita Lempickas, and more particularly of Gres' Cabaret, with which it also shares a rosy heart and a woody, ambery twist. It's great, it's interesting and yes, it smells really good.

I bought a bottle and my (very picky) Mum immediately swiped it. Is that enough of a recommendation for you?
20 March 2009

Nu Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

For me, this is the ultimate incense scent. It is the prettier sister of Donna Karan's Black Cashmere, with the slight floral element smoothing out the harsh rasp of BC's aggressive attitude. It is beautiful on a cold winter's day and equally at home in jeans and t-shirt or a little black dress and heels.
Such a shame it has been discontinued.
19 March 2009

Madeline by Ava Luxe

This sweet elixir is as comforting as any of Ava Luxe's milky vanillas, but the addition of spices brings it to another plane. To my admittedly blunt nose it has a heart of soft leather. Remarkable. Utterly cozy and delicious, I hope Serena will eventually make this part of her regular line.
01 February 2009

Hiris by Hermès

I appreciate the artistry and intelligence of this perfume.
The cold, metallic top is remarkable and unlike anything else I've smelled; it then opens out into a warmer, more traditional iris fragrance.
Sadly though, it just wasn't me and I swapped my bottle away.
12 January 2009

First by Van Cleef & Arpels

I have to be honest, this was a scrubber on me. I am a massive fan of Jean Claude Ellenna, but this is totally unlike his more famous creations, like L'Eau d' Hiver. I found it physically nauseating, it was so completely over-the-top with a rotten fruit note that repelled me completely. I was astonished by the strength of my reaction to it. I would rather smell Paris Hilton's CanCan than this.

I would suggest that if you want to try it, do so on a day when you won't be going anywhere afterwards and don't get any on your coat as it has remarkable persistence.
31 December 2008

Loukhoum by Keiko Mecheri

What a treat!

I would put this into the same general bracket as Kenzo Amour in terms of audience and appropriateness. I would say it was suitable for all ages, including young girls, and it's perfectly acceptable for work or any kind of setting where you want to keep your perfume inoffensive, such as the theatre, dinner and work, especially in caring professions.

My first impression was of sweetness, exactly like sugar hitting your tongue. Because I'm used to rose-flavoured Turkish Delight, I expected a distinct rose, but this has none. The initial sweetness wasn't cloying and soon calmed down into a soft, sweet, almondy, slightly woody gentleness. It lasted all day long and was very pleasing even after more than a dozen hours. Indeed, it was still subtly lingering the following morning.
07 December 2008

Chinatown by Bond No. 9

I can see what the appeal is. To me there was a rounded sweet opening that then unfolded into a smooth peach, I would guess it's the same aromachemical as is used in Guerlain's Mitsouko, Attrape Coeur and Vol de Nuit Evasion (please note it's Evasion, the travel exclusive that is nothing like the regular Vol.)

This peach note is often paired with rich golden notes by Guerlain, to create something that I sometimes find too much to stand, or in Mitsouko, balanced out with bitter oakmoss, which I still find somehow indigestible. In Chinatown it has been delicately balanced to keep it in check, but it has avoided bitterness. I would call it a 'white peach'. The base is gently woody and musky and it has decent longevity. All in all, I am impressed by the handling of a chemical I know I struggle with, but I doubt I'd buy a full bottle.
07 December 2008

Paris Hilton by Paris Hilton

Cheap hairspray. No, really. Not even Elnette. And no progression.
Yuk.
29 November 2008

Can Can Paris Hilton by Paris Hilton

Vile. Sweet fruit in synthetic syrup. A scrubber.
One good thing to say about it: it's not as bad as the original Paris Hilton perfume.
29 November 2008

Sexy Darling by Kylie Minogue

This is better than you might expect for a scent with a celebrity's name on it. I was impressed; I may even buy a bottle.
I found the topnotes quite sweet, but it settled well and moved smoothly from the initial sweetness through a balanced heart to a lovely woody musk base. It taps into the current trend for woody scents and does a nice job. Worth a try.
29 November 2008

Cabriole by Elizabeth Arden

This was my very first 'proper' perfume, given to me by a journalist aunt when I was twelve. I felt very ladylike when I wore it. I remember it as a sweet floral.
28 October 2008

Courtesan by Worth

I agree with Mocachoc's review. I have been very impressed by this perfume, finding it complex but not muddled, elegant but not snooty and I very much like the slight salty note that leavens it. The notes listed sound like they should create a cacophony, but they don't. It's smooth and interesting and develops well over a number of hours, lingering pleasantly on the skin.

Looking at Twolf's comment, I think I would save it for cooler and less humid weather. I am reviewing it in autumn and it's perfect at this time of year.

I have a suspicion that this perfume may be another Tocade - one that becomes a popular hit purely because it smells very good. I hope so.
12 October 2008

Datura Noir by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Not as sweet as I'd expect from something with coconut notes, but it's better for that. There's a very definite bitter almond note to start with, among the slightly tropical, slightly fruity, slightly white floral composition. That makes it sound a mish mash and it's not. It's very good and rather unusual. I understand the bitter almond - as well as cutting any sweetness it gives a suspicion of something poisonous. Clever. I like that in a perfume.

Sadly, it doesn't last very long on me. After just a couple of hours I'm now down to a very faint slightly doughy, slightly coconutty, still not sweet skin scent. Not full bottle worthy for me, but I'll enjoy using up the sample and might get a decant one day.
11 August 2008

Amour de Cacao by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

Nope. Sadly, this fails to convince. Perhaps I should just accept that chocolate is not a note for me and move on.

If you're considering buying a bottle blind, I strongly suggest you restrain yourself and try a sample or decant first. It's not a bad fragrance, far from it, but it's not necessarily what you expect. It isn't rich or voluptuous and doesn't last very long on the skin. If that's what you're after, head towards the vanilla department instead.
18 July 2008

Ambre by L'Occitane

Powerful - a small spray goes a long way and lasts very well. It does have that slightly strange L'Occitaine base note that I'm not sure if I like.

However, this is rich and simple amber; an uncluttered classic and very affordable.

06 June 2008

Midnight Poison by Christian Dior

On me this smells of liniment.
I'm giving it a 'neutral' because I rather like the smell of liniment. But Ralgex is cheaper.
02 June 2008

Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker

It's lovely. Not as soft and fluffy as the name and advertising implies - it does have some backbone and impressive sillage. It also lasts phenomenally well on the skin and is often still there the following morning. There's a definite crispness and sparkle to the head and heart notes and it clips along like Carrie in her Manolos. There's a sass to it.

I think that's the image to hold when considering this fragrance - don't think of SJP the dancer, fashionista, Broadway actress, Mrs Matthew Broderick... think of Carrie clipping smartly down a sunny New York street in a little bitty dress and high heels, going to meet her girlfriends. It's warm, sparkling, charming and urban; it doesn't put a foot wrong.

Makes a great gift too.
27 May 2008

Jovan Musk by Jovan

I think there's something wrong with my nose: all I get is a mild smell of perming lotion. Not dreadful though. (Oh dear - I've been smelling too many CDGs if I think perming lotion is an ok perfume.)
20 May 2008

Pure Poison by Christian Dior

Subtle, light, gently floral but with a backbeat to it that raises it above the ordinary. This is eminently wearable.

Interestingly, the opening notes remind me of a ski wax I used to use in the 1980s; lovely!
19 May 2008

Sun by Jil Sander

And interesting sunshine/summertime fragrance that I initially wrote off as just another tropical Azuree Soleil/Bronze Goddess/Miami Glow 'posh suntan oil' kind of scent. But I was too hasty. This is actually a very well put-together fragrance that has a good progression and a very nice base that lasts well. Yes, it has that kind of 'beach skin accord' and a tropical feel, but it doesn't have the synthetic tones I get from the others. And the base is indeed beautiful and very wearable.
I may buy a little bottle.
17 May 2008

Secret Intention by Guerlain

This is the Guerlain that's allegedly based on tea, but I don't get any.
I think I caught jasmine as it opened, now I have a nice, smooth, rich floral. Quite powerful for an edt.
It's OK but it doesn't make me jump up and down.

12 May 2008

Kelly Calèche by Hermès

Fizzy leather!

This is a leather for a summer's day. It is an exercise in transparency and modernity. I don't have any idea how he has managed to achieve it, but Ellena has stayed true to form and created a sheer, light and effervescent leather that is mesmerisingly beautiful.

If you want full-bodied, animalic, weird, rich or boozy leather, you're better off reaching for something else - there are plenty of fantastic leather fragrances out there. Kelly Caleche has a floral softness that makes it very appealing and wearable, even for non-leatherheads. Well worth a try and a good choice for a gift.

07 May 2008

Blu Notte by Bulgari

I really wanted to try this fragrance after reading the notes - how delicious they sound! In fact, it's all handled with such admirable restraint that this is not the extraordinary confection I had wondered about.

This is a very well-mannered fragrance that has a lovely sheerness to it and a very pleasant rounded warmth. It's dignified and quietly sensual - I get slight hints of the dark chocolate base note but overall would have thought the base was more ambery and slightly woody.

To me this is a sheer lightly gourmand oriental. It would be a pretty safe gift.
28 April 2008

Bulgari Black by Bulgari

I've just taken possession of my very own bottle of Black, having lusted after it for a couple of years. When I first came to the perfumista world, I tried Black expecting to be shocked and repelled as it's touted as a 'wierd and wonderful' scent, yet I found it very comforting and familiar. The rubber note doesn't spring out too much on my skin (though I like rubbery, tarry smells anyway) and sadly, I don't get any baby powder, or black tea. Instead, I get a nice lingering saddle leather followed by a deep, comforting vanilla. Since I adore both notes, this makes me very happy.

I'd certainly recommend anyone of either sex to try this fragrance - it crops up frequently as a reference and it's an interesting and unique composition. Also, it's widely enough available that you should be able to get to smell it. It's often put in the Men's section of perfumeries, but is very much unisex.
26 April 2008

Rochas Femme (new) by Rochas

It is with a heavy heart that I report this classic fragrance turns to a powerful and repellent hairspray smell on my skin. It had to be scrubbed off.
I must add the caveat that oakmoss is a note that I just can't get to work for me and that is the culprit here.
17 January 2008

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

On my skin this opened with whisky. A good single malt whisky. I checked with my husband and he agreed. Then I got the wood of the cask. Finally I was left with a smooth lemon.

It was very nice, very unisex and very unusual without being outre or unwearable.
It's not for me, but I wouldn't be unhappy if a sales assistant sprayed me with this as I walked through a department store.
09 December 2007

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Ah, a fragrance that lives up to the hype.
I didn't get any candyfloss (cotton candy) but I got the animals - the tigers, the horses, the dung, the fur and sweet hay. Fantastic. Not a perfume to wear to church, but all the more wonderful for that.
I wish Santa would bring me a large bottle.
02 December 2007

Tabu by Dana

Being British, this fragrance wasn't anywhere on my radar when I was young. I've only ever heard of it here on Basenotes but had to try it from all these reviews.

It is indeed as cheap as chips and very easy to get hold of. But that's where the jokes end. This is lovely stuff. If it had a name like Armani or Prada on it, was in a glitzy bottle and backed by luxe ads with sulky supermodels pouting in black and white it would be called a classic and have a luxe price tag.

It's spicy and ambery, smoky and insencey, warm and woody with a little sliver of floral something in there to sweeten it. It's smooth and very very wearable and reminds me slightly of Opium.

If you're going to take a punt on a blind buy, this is so cheap you can afford to go for it. If you're an oriental lover, you won't be sorry.
25 November 2007

Après L'ondée by Guerlain

This smells exactly like the skin on the back of my little girl's neck. Gentle, soft, warm, a little sweet, innocent and beautiful.
15 October 2007

Eau Ressourçante / Eau Tranquility by Clarins

Gentle, serene and rosy; I love to wear this fragrance when travelling as it calms me down. It's lovely in summer as well - it has enough complexity to count as a 'real' perfume, but feels simple.

I get roses and perhaps other flowers, not too sweet, with a background murmur of woods to support and give some longevity. Definitely feminine.

A really beautiful fragrance that makes a good gift.
15 October 2007

Virgin Island Water by Creed

This is not a 'serious' scent. And that, I am discovering, is no bad thing.

You know that effortlessly cool, laid-back Jack Johnson (musician) surfy kind of guy? This is him in a bottle. It's about sunshine and picnics and letting your hair blow in the wind. It's happy and it smells of holidays and good things. You might like to wear it to the office if you need to remind yourself to be a little less uptight, but you'd probably prefer it on the weekend.

I like it very much, despite initially being concerned about the idea of a coconut note (memories of sickly teenage perfume oils). The lime in the opening balances the coconut and keeps it mouthwatering rather than sweet or cloying. It dries down into an elegant warm blend that doesn't scream 'tanning oil'. It's very much unisex, though faint-hearted chaps might be scared by the coconut. Don't let it put you off. Courage mes braves!
14 July 2007

Un Jardin en Méditerranée by Hermès

I can well imagine a man wearing this. Not all men; judging from the reviews here, it seems to be a touch too sweet or light for some, but that might be down to skin chemistry as much as personal preference. I'd certainly like to smell this on a chap.

I absolutely love this perfume and am fascinated by it. I find it has an envigorating herbal opening and then opens up on the skin with a resinous green warmth that very much reminds me of plants in a hot, sunny and rocky garden. I don't know how JC Ellena does it.

I lusted after this fragrance for its fig note, as I've become a fig fiend this summer. But this fragrance brings the fig in as a character actor, not the ham that steals the show. I do find it sheer and therefore not as long-lasting as something ambery or oriental. But that's the nature of perfumery isn't it? And it means you can enjoy another spritz a few hours later and go back to the beginning of the garden. Lovely!
09 July 2007

Ô Oui! by Lancôme

I have an unpleasant in-law who I plan to give this to just so that at family gatherings when she looks down her nose at me I will be able to think "but you smell of WEE!"
I know I am not mature.

Very poor name though. And not a particularly inspiring fragrance, but not actively unpleasant.
06 July 2007

Eau Dynamisante by Clarins

I picked up small bottles of this and the Eau Ressourcante in Duty Free while traveling on business and they seem to have lived in my handbag ever since.

This is a great clean, fresh, fairly simple citrus fragrance with a woody base that does indeed seem to help wake me up and keep me going.

It's also lovely in hot weather, when citrus perfumes are really put to the test. This one retains its poise: the woods stop the citrus from being over-sharp without adding any sweetness and the composition stays smelling 'natural' and never cloys.

It makes a great gift, especially for hard-to-buy for ladies, from business-like supermums to tomboy sisters-in-law!
05 July 2007

Cabochard by Grès

I so want to like Cabochard, I so want to be the kind of woman who can wear Cabochard. But on me it packs a reeking wallop of (I'm sorry, I'm sorry!) old lady.

But I love Bandit and Tabac Blonde, so I'm hoping that I've got a dicky bottle. I'll try it again sometime at a perfume counter just to be absolutely sure.
04 July 2007

Firewood / Feu de Bois by Ava Luxe

As the other reviewers have mentioned, a very faithful woodsmoke smell. On a par with the Miller Harris roomspray for realism, if not better. As suggested by some other reviewers, I'd be interested to see her extend into room sprays, candles etc.

I got definite whiffs of cedar and tobacco; lots of smoke, drying down into ashes. In fact, I must admit to getting a touch of ashtrays, but that might just be the ex-smoker in me.

I found this very dry, too dry perhaps. In the end I sweetened it with a dab of Ava Luxe's 'Milk', which worked nicely.

11 June 2007

Milk by Ava Luxe

I concur with all the other reviews: condensed milk and comfort.

Not to be splashed on all over, but rather nice to put a spot of on your wrist before bed in flannel PJs with a hot water bottle and a good book. I tried it in summer, perhaps it would be better in the winter. I think it might wear well with a big woolly jumper or a cashmere scarf.

The thing that would put me off buying a bottle is that I found it very sweet. I think it might well be appreciated by young girls - and I'd certainly be much happier buying this for my daughter or goddaughters than something from a 'sleb' famous only for going bonkers, exposing themselves or being named after a hotel.

10 June 2007

Ysatis Iris by Givenchy

See, on me this is a sillage monster and it has more than a twang of Davidoff's Cool Water (woman) to it. I got melons as the top note. And it has a powerful tenacity.
Not my cup of lapsang souchong at all.
23 May 2007

Jicky by Guerlain

Oh lord I love this stuff! I spent most of last summer practically bathing in the EDT ( it was an unusually hot, Mediterranean summer). Since its now May again, I've just splashed out on a bottle of EDP and I'm not regretting it.

I can understand wearing this at any time of year, but for me, the strong, clean opening blast of lavender and lemon means summertime to me. I think it would be great on a man as the lavender is herbal and fresh rather than floral or sweet. As other reviewers have commented, it dries down into a warm skin scent. I can't smell the civet but I can only assume I like it because there's nothing about this fragrance that I can even vaguely fault.

From the story of its association with Shalimar, I didn't know if I'd like Jicky because I find Shalimar doesn't quite chime for me (I'm a Vol de Nuit person if that explains anything). But I find this perfume simply addictive. Even though I have an embarassingly large wardrobe, this is one I reach for when in doubt - in fact in summer it often takes a real effort for me to choose something else to wear.

I highly recommend trying a decant, if only for the historic significance.
14 May 2007

Parure by Guerlain

Oh dear. There's something in this that just doesn't work on me. Ah well, we can't have everything.
14 May 2007

Lime, Mandarin and Vetiver by Tesco

I was dreading smelling this one of the Tesco Finest fragrances because I expected it to be a straightforward, blah citrus scent. There are so many variants of the orange/lemon/lime/bergamot cologne that I thought it would be a cheap version of something like Eau Dynamisante. How wrong I was! It's actually a very nice, fresh but warm citrus that lasts well.

Like the other scents in the range, there is a certain synthetic edge, but I don't find it off-putting. It fades with the top notes, leaving an impressively warm vetiver drydown that is more complex than I expected.

All in all a great summer fragrance to splash on all over - and one that men should certainly try as it's absolutely unisex.
12 May 2007

Red Rose and Jasmine by Tesco

A straightforward attempt to copy Jo Malone's Red Roses that's not half bad. I've never smelled the JM original but considering this as a fragrance in its own right I find it very pleasant. It's not cloying - the great fear with rose scents - and it's pleasantly fresh. I get a slightly synthetic edge, but didn't expect to be transported to Grasse's May Rose beds for a fiver.

It's eminently suitable for teenagers or maiden aunts - nothing scary or musky here - and I should think it perfect for office wear or as a summertime fragrance to spalsh on with abandon. I'm certainly going to get myself the candle to see how it performs, as it smells very nice in the jar.

I would say this is great value for money and well worth a try. It would make a great gift.
12 May 2007

Ginger, Vanilla and Pink Pepper by Tesco

Being a saddo I bought all 4 of the Tesco frags and this is my least favourite of them. Having said that, for a fiver it's much more complex than you'd expect. And to be fair, a swanky room fragrance costs more than a fiver, so even if you don't like this on your skin it's not a complete loss.

It's a nicely put-together warm oriental, that lasts well and does what you'd expect it to. It's not earth-shattering, let's be honest. But if you're on a limited budget it's worth trying. I think the accompanying bath and body products might be well worth a try and the candle smells very good.
12 May 2007

L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I understand why the descriptions on the Malle website call this delicate delight an 'Eau Chaud' - a warm water. It's a light fragrance - as light as a snowflake and as white as a winter sky - but it is soft, warm and sweet as a baby's skin.

It would suit a young woman or teenager; if you have enough money to splash out on a Malle as a gift for a daughter or niece they would be very lucky to get this.

It's sweet and soft but not cloying and not overtly floral or gourmand - there's no vanilla or other edible notes.

I find it much warmer and less synthetic smelling than Demeter's Snow (not a comment on the chemical composition, just trying to decribe Snow) and less overtly floral than Philosophy's Baby Grace. It has rather more in common with Pure Grace, I would say, though again it feels less synthetic than Pure Grace. It's an absolutely lovely perfume that lasts well, lying close to the skin and gently radiating class.

A huge thumbs up from someone who is usually a stick-in-the-mud oriental or citrus gal. (Though I've also been swept off my feet by Malle's Iris Poudre.)
12 May 2007

Fig, Almond and Cassis by Tesco

Let's be honest here; this is a blatant wannabe Jo Malone Wild Fig and Cassis. And you know what? I don't care. I bought a bottle because I love that fig note and didn't have any in my wardrobe. I can't tell you how it compares to the Malone version, but I like this one very much. It's figgy and has a nice richness and a bit of complexity to it, which I assume is the cassis and almond. It lasts well and holds its figginess.
Ticks all the boxes for me and cost a fiver. Can't say fairer than that for something to splash on heartily in the summer.
19 April 2007

Angel by Thierry Mugler

Vile!
Like so many others, I expected something extrordinary and delicious from this fragrance, especially after Luca Turin raved about it as a new classic. But oh my word, was I surprised.

On me it split into two distinct and simultaneous halves; a sweet, super-girly top with an undertone of hairy-chested seventies super-butch aftershave. Remarkable, for sure, but not in the way I'd anticipated. Boy did I regret spraying it on my wrist. It certainly has staying power.

As with all fragrances, if you like it, and it works on you, fabulous. But unless you're an Angel lover, if the lady on the makeup counter is spraying it around, be very careful!
05 August 2006

L'Eau par Kenzo by Kenzo

A stunning scent on the paper strip - remarkably fresh and clean, with a note of new-mown grass, it's warm and natural enough not to smell like airfreshener or fabric softener, as so many 'clean' fragrances seem to.

Sadly, it didn't work on my skin, losing its unique freshness and becoming a nice but fairly ordinary aquatic floral fuzz. What a shame. Not a bad fragrance, indeed a very nice one if this type of scent is your style. but whatever your style this is well worth a sniff on a paper strip.
05 August 2006

Mahora by Guerlain

Oh this is huge! A great big, white, flouncy, bosomy, woman's scent that screams "tahiti". A knockout for women like me, who don't like traditional florals. The frangipani in it is absolutely delicious and yes, tropical.

I suspect it would be an excellent 'formal ball' perfume, as it's very warm and approachable without being as deliberately sexy as many 'evening' fragrances. Personally, I've alternated between this and Jicky all this summer, worn it everywhere to do everything and loved it.

Thankfully it seems to be showing up on ebay quite a lot, so I'm stockpiling it in case it isn't brought back by Guerlain.
A whopping great thumbs up.
04 August 2006

Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

To my inexperienced nose this is a classically hairy-chested masculine fragrance. The notes and movement of this fragrance are better described by other, more knowledgeable Basenotes members. I've worn it, but it smelt somehow 'wrong' on me. However, when I sprayed my frightfully butch, perfume-resistant hubby, suddenly it made sense. It's very sexy on a man in an old-fashioned, slightly seventies, way. If you're a woman, by all means try it, but also try the classics: Tabac Blond, Bandit and Poivre.
04 August 2006

Mont St Michel by Mont St Michel

I'm not sure if it's the same as your father's, but I am never without the soap, showergel and eau de cologne from Mont St Michel. I like the 'original amber' fragrance. I buy it in the supermarket in France when I visit - can't get it in the UK, but in France it's a cheap and cheerful chainstore brand from the Swartzkopf stable. I love it and find it smells fresh but still complex on me; great in the summer.
05 June 2006

Snow by Demeter Fragrance Library

I have no idea how those bods at Demeter do it, but they're terribly clever. To me this perfume smells of cold. Doesn't feel cold, just smells cold. As a life-long skier, I wouldn't necessarily say this smells EXACTLY like snow (though feel free to contradict me), but it does have a thunderstormy crackle that feels right. Interestingly, I find it's good to wear in the summer.
31 May 2006

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

Another fabulously good fragrance from Guerlain's 'back catalogue'. Full of character but easier to wear than L'Heure Bleue, this seems to lie close to the skin and radiate gently, rather than bashing bystanders over the head as more modern 'sexy' perfumes seem to. For me, this is sexy like the Hepburn girls (Kate and Audrey) were sexy; incidentally and as a by-product of personality. It certainly doesn't try too hard and I find it immensely satisfying and comforting to wear.
30 May 2006

L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

Strange, wonderful and very grown-up. This is a fabulous discovery. Get a decant or a sample and try it. It is utterly unlike the modern watery vanilla/ sweet things smells you get in all the department stores. It has character, which is no bad thing in a bland world.
30 May 2006

Iris Poudre by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

This is a very grown-up ladylike scent, that lasts well and is just utterly wonderful. It smells like an adult woman: not harsh, not weak, not flowery or blousy, not kick-ass, not mumsy, not girlish; womanly. This smells like you know how to walk in high heels, you wear red lipstick if you want to and aren't afraid to carry a £200 handbag, even if you're actually wearing jeans and flip flops. Being able to wear this perfume is one of the (few) benefits of reaching 40.
30 May 2006

Blu Mediterraneo Sicilian Almond / Mandorlo di Sicilia by Acqua di Parma

Beautifully gentle and soft, this fragrance seems to disappear into my skin and leave the faintest warm scent.
30 May 2006
 
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