Beautiful rose without any tea that I can smell. That's it. It lasts a long time on me and I love layering it over Chene. I haven't tried the water perfume, maybe that is weaker, but I would love to have a big bottle of this so I could spray with abandon (I only have a 2ml sample of the perfume absolute).
I get barbershop for days....sweet and powdery....I don't get the citrus everyone talks about. Maybe just a little hint of citrus. But yeah....barbershop. I like it.
I've tried lots and lots of aquatics of all kinds. I already own At The Beach 1966, and I really like it. Eternal Return is probably the most minimal or stripped down aquatic scent that I've tried.
Eternal Return is a clean, somewhat salty aquatic, very ocean-like (from what I remember, many years ago). I think I like this and At The Beach equally, but they are suited to different moods. Eternal Return is more like standing on a beach in cooler weather, in solitude. There are definitely times when I would choose this over At The Beach. I love both! Who wants to smell like this? I do!
I really don't smell much if any wood in this, mostly just aquatic/salty and slightly sweet/fruity (and I mean just slightly). I'm wearing the absolute, and it actually sticks around longer than I would expect. What to say? It smells like the ocean to me. I want to always have this available.
You could probably wear Salt Air from Demeter instead of this, but it does fade a lot faster (in my experience). And I think Eternal Return has more depth.
From a 2ml sample of the absolute perfume....
I smell wood, flowers, and some light incense. I'd call the wood "blonde", kind of light cedar-y.
The flowers are slightly banana-esque. Unless that's coming from the sandalwood. This is different from other jasmine perfumes I've tried, and I'm not sure I would have known it had jasmine if I hadn't read the list of notes.
Over time the ripe sweetness fades, and it's more like sandalwood-ish incense, very light. Overall it's a peaceful, sort of cool scent.
I put this on about 6 hours ago, and I still smell it in the air around me. It's not strong, and that's perfectly fine for me. I usually don't want a strong scent in a cloud around me all day long.
More than a 'hint' of frozen earth for me - I smell a lot of soil at first, with some icy or frosty element. It's weird that earth would be a top note but that's what happens when I wear this, the soil backs off a lot after a few minute. What's left is....I don't know, something cold that is sort of mineral with something a tiny bit sweet, I wouldn't say floral like some other reviewers but I'm not sure. I also have some of his 'Snow' accord and I think I can pick that out here, plus soil and something I thought was a very clean, light mint. I could be wrong about the mint, that might just be an illusion.
I would enjoy having a big bottle of the water perfume to spritz liberally on a hot day, like someone else mentioned, I think this would be very refreshing. In fact I would rather wear this in hot weather than cold weather.
I ended up putting on quite a bit because my 2ml vial leaked on me. This is a subtle scent but on me it does last a long time, even though after a few hours it is basically a skin scent of something cold and earthy.
08th January, 2016 (last edited: 11th January, 2016)
Not much to add - this smells really good, with just the right level of strength or 'power', in my opinion. I mostly smell frankincense which I guess is olibanum or close to the same thing. Smells like it is made from high quality ingredients.
I give it a thumbs up but I already own CdG 2 Man, which is somewhat like this but better in my opinion, more complex with a little variety within the fragrance. They both have that clean incense vibe, like a light burning incense. Which I do like but I don't need both. From Heeley I would rather wear Spirit of the Tiger.
It's a little too strong. But I enjoy the ambery sweetness and to me almost like bubblegum and cinnamon, which some people would hate but I really like. I love cinnamon in fragrances and it does stand out here a little bit. I can't wear too much of it because it can be overpowering. Two sprays, that's it. Yes there is a 'synthetic' quality but for me, the warmth and sweetness are appealing.
I understand why so many people dislike it - but I just like how it smells. *shrugs* no big whoop. I received it as a gift, otherwise I probably wouldn't own it.
After working my way through a 1ml sample, I am neutral on this. It is fresh and very light, an aloe and floral scent, a little bit sweet, but as far as cool stone or incense or anything mystical - I'm not getting that at all. I wanted to love it and wanted to smell the things that are in the description and other people's reviews - but I smell something like a cleaning product. It's not terrible, and I could comfortably wear it to work knowing I wouldn't offend anyone.
Eau d'Italie by Eau d'Italie is a similar idea that is much more interesting, and more to my liking. From this line I will stick with Dzongkha, Timbuktu, and I also love Cote d'Amour.
Tested from a sample vial....
For the first 2 or 3 hours this is a nearly perfect office fragrance, calm and confident, smooth silver grey like the bottle, quiet and comfortable. Very easy to wear. But after about 3 hours, grrr......something cheap and sweet comes out and tips the whole thing over, I'm actually blaming the musk more than the vanilla but who knows, could be both. It ends up smelling kind of cheap, disappointing. The scent never quite recovers from this even though I can detect the earlier good parts trying to come back out. Sad.
For the first couple hours I was thinking this was like Dior Homme's quieter brother, but then it turns into cotton candy. Neutral rating, nearly a thumbs up, probably worth trying again because maybe today was a fluke? I don't remember that happening the other times I tried it.
Man, it hurts me to write this. The older formula of New York was in my top 2 or 3 fragrances. It was my favorite versatile cologne, I wore it for just about any occasion and setting. It was rich, orange and amber, spicy-sweet, powdery, and a little mossy, just great, and lasted all day long. One of the most comfortable colognes I've ever worn.
I recently (Nov. 2012) got a new bottle, 100ml, and I feel cheated and disappointed. As others have already noted, this has been reformulated and weakened. It does smell almost the same, but it is weaker and only lasts about 3 hours. Big, big difference in longevity. Ouch. If you've never worn the older New York, you might enjoy this. But if you loved the old one, prepare to be possibly disappointed. : (
Edit: after a few more tries, I'm changing my rating to thumbs up. It's not as bad as my first impressions. You just have to apply a little more heavily and it kind of works, but still not as good as it used to be.
20th November, 2012 (last edited: 09th January, 2013)
From the year I was born! Wait, wasn't this made in '71? Was it re-released or something?
Anyway, I don't have much to add. It smells like something high quality but made a long time ago. I get the shaving cream references but that's not how I think of it. There are some long phases, this lasts for hours. I kind of want some but at the same time, I have grown tired of traditional masculine scents for the most part. This would be one of the definitive ones to get. I love herbs, and star anise is one of my favorites, but really none of the notes stand out in particular here.
I love spices, and I love how this smells, but it's so light. It did last all day at work but I dumped a mostly full 1ml sample on myself and it was still really light, I'm not sure if anyone else could smell it. I could imagine times when I'd want something like that, but other better fragrances have higher priority. Great medicinal quality, though.....warm and a little bracing at the same time. Similar to real tiger balm but like someone else said, more refined.
This smells good and I would wear it if it were easier to get and/or not so expensive. There is something a little medicinal going on which appeals to me (maybe that 'hemlock' note). It's a little on the ponderous side for me but made with high quality, I believe. And anything woodsy is already a likely win for me, for the most part. I think this is somewhat similar to Declaration but heavier and darker.
Ormonde Woman, on the other hand, is beautiful and worth seeking out. That's the one I would choose over the two.
I think this is a thumb's up as far as execution but it's something I personally wouldn't wear. I like most of the notes listed, I like the weirdness, and the fresh and clean vibe, but I just don't like the lily or lilac, whatever floral note is going on here reminds me of scented toilet paper, throughout the whole life of the scent.
There is an extended middle phase where some kind of aldehydes come forward, or at least that's what it smelled like to me. I kept thinking of Chanel No. 5. This lasted for about 3 hours then mostly drifted off. I thought aldehydes were more of a top note? Anyway I really liked that part.
I think some people will love this and either gender could wear it comfortably if you're into this kind of thing.
04th November, 2012 (last edited: 08th November, 2012)
Overall I like this. At first I thought it was too light, but it does have some staying power, and it's very appealing. I wasn't expecting so much citrus....I was trying it more for the suede and wood.....but, it's not a bad thing. Sweet and fresh, and somehow the citrus freshness lasts for a long time.
I was happy to sample but I probably won't go for a whole bottle, because it wouldn't really add anything to my collection that's not already there (I'm thinking mainly of Dior Homme and New York, but it's lighter than either of those). Still gets a thumbs up from me.
Well, I like this, but it's a near thing. It comes very close to being too sour or scratchy and dry for me to enjoy. I'm not completely sure what saves it.
It goes on kind of harsh, almost like a chemical smell. But it softens and warms up, and the spices come out a bit. There is something almost salty about it. Most of the fragrances I really enjoy have some kind of sweetness in them, but there is nothing sweet about this. It makes me think of rye bread, or is that just the power of suggestion of the caraway listed in the notes?
After a while it lightens up a lot, and becomes this dry, grassy, somewhat airy scent that I enjoy. I wouldn't call it soapy or even clean, really. Maybe a little metallic, though? I don't even know how to describe this. It's like someone took a traditional men's fragrance and made it sort of abstract. It could almost pass for normal until you pay closer attention.
Well I think this smells good, but it fades away to nothing pretty quickly. At first it's really nice and subtle. There's something papery about it, sometimes amber does that on me so maybe it's the amber. But I dumped an entire 1ml sample on myself and halfway through the day it was barely there. I just wouldn't spend money on something that disappears so quickly, so the lasting power (or lack thereof) makes this a neutral for me.
Well, I'm on board, I think this is pretty fantastic. I finished my little sample vial today and I am pretty sure I'm going to need more.
I like a lot of woods and spices, especially in cooler weather, so this was kind of a no-brainer for me, although they don't always work as I want them to.
I don't really get the 'challenging' aspect that others are writing about. For me this is very easy and comfortable, a little on the formal side, and probably will be worn more often in cooler weather as I mentioned. Although it is warm and rich, I also think it has an light/airy quality that I really enjoy. The wood part is a little dry but there's a little sweetness too.....I don't know. I just know it smells good and I want a big bottle for the fall/winter.
About the list of notes....I read it and it just looks like a bunch of stuff, I can't really relate it to what Memoir Woman actually smells like.
This fragrance smells rich and powerful, strong, almost overwhelming. It smells like burning incense to me, but that's not doing it justice....it's super deluxe burning incense with flowers, a little earthy or gritty something going on, but overall just hard to describe. Resins, flowers, and earthy spices. It's a BIG scent and was almost too much for me.
I wore this to the Dead Can Dance concert in Chicago's Millenium Park. It was almost too much even for an outdoor event, especially since I usually apply really lightly with all my fragrances. I decided it was a special occasion and I wanted to step outside my comfort zone, and I really put on a lot (for me). So I love the way Memoir Woman smelled on me, but I can't imagine many other situations in life where this would be appropriate. Way too strong to wear indoors unless it's a large open space.
So, yeah....maybe I could get a large decant but there wouldn't be much point in getting a whole bottle. I love this scent but I don't really wear it as much as it wears me. I think anyone who's really into fragrance should try this or something like it, something so rich and over the top, but such high quality.
Instantly forgettable. Generic cookie-cutter modern mens' fragrance, with zero originality. I'd rather wear nothing than this.
21st June, 2012 (last edited: 23rd June, 2012)
I'm really fond of Black. It's pretty sweet but balanced by the darker, stranger notes of rubber and/or lapsang souchang. There is powdery vanilla and amber. I can't always wear vanilla but again, the balance here is what makes this scent something special. Love it.
Powdery, slightly raspy woods with not much backbone. The powdery is strong in the top notes but backs off after a while. This is pleasant, but not something I'd wear. There's something a little strange in here, maybe the hazel wood mentioned in the notes, only noticeable up close. Positive rating because I think the quality is there, it's just not my kind of scent.
I tried to like this. My problem is immortelle, when it's used liberally it has a 'spilled then dried maple syrup' effect to me, just a little less sweet than actual maple syrup. Dusty and dry. That's what I get in 1740, unfortunately. It's not horrible but the immortelle just stomps on all the other good stuff in there.
Neutral rating because I can tell this might be great on someone else. It's just not for me.
Smells like dirty broiled lemons. That's what I think of every time I put this on. I've been wearing it to bed for some reason. I like it a lot.
It does smell like something from the 70's. If Polo smells "green", then Z-14 smells like a "rusty orange" cousin from the same family.
I didn't like this at first, and in the end I still feel it's not for me, but I can appreciate its beauty.
When first applied I smell scorched sugar with an alarming plastic and/or chemical smell, with hints of magic marker. There are some vanilla notes that smell like plastic to me and that's almost what I'm getting here, but it doesn't stay long. It's the opening stage of this fragrance that I don't like.
After an hour or two the chemical feeling calms down a lot. I would call this heady and intoxicating, decadent, like a super-rich dessert that is almost too rich. Very smooth, and more than a little sexy.
Another hour later, the base notes come in and I like this even more. I think cedar is coming out or maybe patchouli. At this point I start thinking maybe I could wear this after all. But I think I would only put it on a couple hours before leaving to go out, not sooner. It's still somewhat of a scorched sugary scent, but now backed up by the grounding woodsy notes. Not bad but I'm not sure where I would wear this.
Last thought....I'm still not sure I know what oud smells like, so I can't comment on its presence in this scent.
I like this a lot, it's dark of course, and goes through some phases. At first I smell anise and powder with leathery notes and then the leather comes out more strongly, with also something rubbery like others mentioned. Then that fades too and it becomes more of a sultry, quiet scent, kind of incense-y. Overall it's very serious and kind of brooding, no sweetness at all, and a little on the quiet side. Is it really a chypre? Smells more of a fougere, if you ask me. But I have been known to confuse that issue.
It's like a distant relative of Drakkar Noir, quieter and more serious, less flashy, more handsome.
Simple, casual, inoffensive, fleeting. Fresh citrus with a sort of sea-spray feeling. I don't get much sandalwood unfortunately, and this fades a lot, pretty quickly. It's pleasant enough and I give it a thumbs-up, however, I wouldn't (and didn't) spend a lot of money on it. Neat bottle though.
I love this fragrance, love it. It took a few tries for me to fall for it, like a few other of my favorites. I think of smooth, light brown spices and soft leather, and other stuff, maybe a whisper of lavender. Very elegant, and sticks to my skin for hours. Once applied there is no turning back. There are some subtle facets in the scent, unlike the Intense which I find more linear and less interesting (but not bad). I believe I have the pre-reformulated Dior Homme, if that matters.
edit: After having smelled iris (the flower), I can say that note stands out in Dior Homme, not lipstick but iris - which is a very strange-smelling flower and makes me love DH even more. It blends seamlessly with the leather and spices. My one complaint is this is a very strong fragrance and I have to apply lightly.
20th May, 2012 (last edited: 18th November, 2015)
I think of this as seamless, although I can pick out the lavender, and cinnamon too. I get along well with all the notes listed so it's no surprise that I enjoy this fragrance. Solid and comfortable. Love the warm spices.
This smells familiar, like a part of the Nicolai family. I'm getting echoes of New York, Nicolai Pour Homme, and Maharanih Intense. I think New York is my favorite of these but Maharadjah is definitely no slouch. I wouldn't mind having a bottle of this.
Opening....very nice blend of sweet citrus, spices, herbs, woods? and just a little floral. Very balanced. I love citrus, very promising.
After an hour or two....uh-oh.....the floral aspect is turning too soapy. Oakmoss might be contributing, it turns on me sometimes. I smell geranium even though it's not listed (and I really dislike geranium).
Couple more hours.....there's the vanilla peeking out.....helping with some sweetness, but it's too little, too late. Still woody, a little sandalwood. The soapy floral did back off a bit. It has been over 4 hours and I'm still getting a fair amount of power from this one.
I'm giving this fragrance a positive rating because I think it is well balanced and constructed. The opening stage is very nice. It's unique, but just not for me.