Perfume Reviews

Reviews by spirit966

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New Haarlem by Bond No. 9

A tad disappointed with this fragrance. I agree that the opening is very much coffee with hints of lavender and a cacao note.

But that's all the opening. 3-4 hours in, the mid and base notes is more about tonka, amber and vanilla than coffee, which is what the reviews here rave about. Longevity is decent at 6-8 hours, not the beast that people talk about here.

Looking to sell this, used 10-12 sprays, if anyone is interested and is a fan.

Its good, just not great.

PS: people smell coffee beans after sniffing numerous fragrances. No surprise that olfactory fatigue may kick in really quickly for this fragrance.

PPS: the best coffee frag I've smelt so far is Eau Noire from Dior. But that has other notes like immortelle that put me off. Anyone have recommendations?
01st December, 2014

Habit Rouge by Guerlain

EDP

If it wasn't for the crappy projection, you can't smell it after 3 hours (unless you put your nose right at it and even then its only musks) this really could be an all season signature scent.

It ticks the boxes for freshness, gourmand, leather incense and resins.

Orange blossom with rose wood and marshmallowy vanilla and woods with a little bit of powder and slight herbal aromatic greenness. Dries down to dry woods that reminds me of leather. Walks the line of being sensual (opening and mid), feminine (powder), and masculine and oriental (leather and resins nutty pachouli and oud).

Too bad... Projection is sooo sooo poor. Longevity for an EDP at 6-8 hours with only around 4 hours of actual drydown (not musks) is also another downer....
01st May, 2014

Ambre Nuit Cologne by Christian Dior

This is great!
It's not a powerhouse oriental. Rather a very refined, sensual scent.

Opens with a pink/red rose that dissipates within 30 minutes. The opening is quite feminine. Dark roses like Montale or Portrait of a Lady have more masculine openings because of the woody notes and incense underneath the rose.

You are then left with a grapefruit, hints of pink pepper, and earthy patchouli. The rose is still there, so still a little feminine.

The smell after one hour mark is beautiful, hints of citrus and a leathery second skin amber. Lovely, just lovely. Very wearable for men too. Its not a dark amber, no longer a floral amber, but a fresh and waxy amber with hints of citrus which makes it wearable for all seasons.

This could seriously be an all season scent and is signature scent worthy for all sensual types that don't need huge projection and sillage to prove their point!
I'm scratching my head between whether I prefer this or Lumiere Noire Pour Homme.
Musk or Amber?!
16th April, 2014
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Eau Noire Cologne by Christian Dior

Unique, masculine, complex, fresh and warm at the same time, but not my cup of tea.

Opens with a very soapy fern and lavender note with spices such as thyme and sage. Thyme should be a sweet note (check MFK's own line of Pour le Matin) but this one has a heavy hand which makes it earthy. If anyone ever put too much dried thyme in their stews, you'll know what I am talking about... Sage gives it a anisey tinge to the smell.
The licorice note is VERY prominent and along with the sage makes this fragrance even more sour and anisey. Herb de Provence with winter spices like star anise, fennel, sage!

I don't like this combo because it reminds me of cough medicine and/or disinfectant, or chlorine in the swimming pool; no such note here, but does give me this feeling.

The coffee note peeks through around the 30 minute mark and this smells like dark coffee beans with no dairy; unlike the typical gourmands. Unfortunately the sour notes at the top makes this coffee smelt burnt, rather than enveloping. If only the top was less sour and herbal...

Immortelle is here also,and gives a hint of body to the scent and towards the 1 hour mark this and the coffee and some woods creates an enveloping scent which is actually quite good. I get a hint of coriander or tumeric here too; perhaps the infamous curry note? Its not as pronounced as what most make it out to be though and I think it complements the coffee note just fine..

This is one of the best coffee notes I have ever smelt so far, but the sour top really spoils it for me...

I understand that the spices are here for the "Noire" in this fragrance, but I would have preferred more woods and coffee and immortelle, and tone down on the anisey, licorice notes.

Perhaps a lavender, clove and bergamot opening, with similar mid and basenotes?

Could be an all year fragrance.. Probably best for fall I would say
Thumbs down for me, but thumbs up for complexity. So net-net, a neutral.
16th April, 2014

Absolue Pour Le Matin by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

reminds me of Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche
White, pure, powdery, fresh, lemony. A good and tame attar boy.

Also may remind some of white almond frangrances like L'eau D'Hiver
06th April, 2014

Interlude Man by Amouage

I give this a thumbs up for quality but a neutral for personal preference.
Interlude actually ticks all the boxes for quality, longevity and projection. Unfortunately 2 things comes to mind for me
1) it's an oriental, but isn't arabesque like Jubilation or Epic, it feels a little bit like a western take of an oriental
2) the sweetness of the fragrance overlaps with other vanillic fragrances I already have. If I own "x"now I may buy Interlude, but only when I finish x. Then again, price may be a mitigating factor.

In all honesty though this fragrance as a bit of everything, the greeness of Memoir, the incense, the myrrh which makes it unique, the vanillic sweetness, a hint of turkish delight accord and some leather and oud in the end. It fills a gap between Jubilation because its less opulent, a gap between Epic because it is less animalic despite having a similar base, fills the gap between Memoir because of the greeness in the opening.
Some will like this, others may find it lacking a bit of edge from an Amouage.
09th December, 2012 (last edited: 19th December, 2012)

Amyris Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This is a very well blended scent and quite natural at that too.
It does smell common place though, the I have smelt this before sort of vibe.
It has the booziness of YSL L'homme, the lemony citrus notes of Dior Homme Sport, and the herbal rosemary notes are similar to the Le Matin of his also.

I would have thought the the fragrance would be more gourmady, but this is not really the case. Its more of a fresh citrus floral with some woods at the background.

Nicely blended, though I won't buy this because it feels like I smelt this before somewhere else.
28th September, 2012 (last edited: 06th April, 2014)

Prada Amber pour Homme Intense by Prada

Great fragrance . To me, its a grown up La Nuit De L'homme. Both are signature scent worthy for the winter.
The midnotes of myrrh and patch reminds me ever so slightly of a touch of chocolate which is very nice indeed. I like YSL's opening more but this has a much deeper and interesting drydown and last ages, although projection is moderate in fall weather and weak for super very cold freezing weather.

Opens with green soapy bergamont and then quickly goes into the chocolate vanilla drydown which is quite beautiful.

I prefer this to the EDT version as this is a deeper fragrance.

Sadly though, I have too many fragrances now and as such willing to part with it.
I guess I prefer Tobacco Vanille and Musc Ravageur over these 2 although Amber pour Homme is a more office appropriate scent to be honest.
22nd March, 2012

Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Its a nice piney, slightly boozy scent. I don't actually find it as spicey as mentioned but it this scent does smell, fresh, modern, slightly boozy and alchoholic, herbal, slightly balmy and classy.

Its a great work and everyday scent if it wasn't for the fact that I have other stuff in my collection that serves this purpose.

I won't call this unique, but it is a well done scent.

As such looking to part with it despite not using it.
19th March, 2012

Coromandel by Chanel

Super long lasting juice, then again, anything with a strong patchouli note does also.

Not really fond of the opening, its a bit of a cherry, almond smell which I find a bit off putting. The amber here is very nice and reminds me of Eau Lente from Diptyque (just texture not smell), may be its the incense and benzoin/opoponax doing tricks.

Dries down to a creamy, almondy, white chocolate sensation,and yes, this is like Amen white chocolate edition you can say, but less sweet.

Interesting fragrance, its a like but not a love as I don't find it compelling or challenging enough and the opening wasn't that appealing to me. Its an oriental that its warming or caressing and comforting enough for me and a bit too much patchouli.
12th March, 2012

L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Diptyque

Regret the purchase.

Its too green, too juicy, too tomato-ey. I know why people will like the refreshing and soothing nature of the fragrance, but I feel like being suffocated in vegetable and vines! (think of the water and vegetable juice after washing lettuce when making a salad!)

There is a rose note there, a dark, truffly, earthy one. But yes, it is engulfed by the greeness of this fragrance.

Good for Spring / Summer but I just can't stand the salad and vegetable connations!
05th March, 2012 (last edited: 17th April, 2014)

Iris Poudre by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Very nice Iris fragrance. This is the first fragrance on in the FM lineup. I find it very feminine and prefer L'eau D'Hiver for an Iris scent in this collection.

It opens very floral and fresh, but as it dries down, the woods, vanilla and musks does make it more unisex.

I don't really find this to be very powdery either. Nevertheless, this is a very good take on a more literal translation of iris I have come across. The supporting flowers such as jasmine pushes this on the fem side. Very sexy.
27th February, 2012

Voleur de Roses by L'Artisan Parfumeur

On a guy I give this a neutral, on a woman a thumbs up.

The opening is quite masculine and Middle Eastern, am I the only one that gets the incense note? After the opening fades, I get some citrus and a fresh, calming pink rose.
This rose reminds me of the one in Lumiere Noire, which is green tending to pink, so obviously I perceive Voleur as a more feminine rose scent.

I would'nt call this a dirty rose like many of you do, it is slightly dusty because of the patchouli bit that's as far as I will go in labelling it goth (Portrait of a Lady, C&S). I also find this a calming frag something like a tea rose, along the veins of Lumiere Noire.

The rose nose disappears around 2hours later and what is left is a skin scent.

A tad too feminine on me and I prefer LM over this one for this type of rose.
27th February, 2012
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Lys Méditerranée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Simple scent.
Fresh breezy lilies with a camphor note.

But I prefer Carnal Flower which is more solar and deeper and has more camphor notes.
12th February, 2012

Touch GrigioPerla by La Perla

Reminds me of a less sweet and slightly spicer version of Boss Bottled.

Personally, YSL La Nuit/L'homme trumps both of them.
03rd February, 2012

Géranium pour Monsieur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Very long lasting fragrance (12+ hours) but is more of a close to the skin scent.

Starts with balmy mint, just like tiger balm and slowly progresses to a clean white musk. The incense, cloves etc is there, but is more or less muted.

I am not sure if this is a EDT or EDC, as on the bottle it only says PV is 5%, so perhaps the weakest Malle in terms of concentration?

This is a really good choice for a guy in suit and tie.
Just like Terre de Hermes in my wardrobe. Neither are my favourite but both has its purpose.
18th November, 2011

The One for Men by Dolce & Gabbana

Regret spending money on this one, gave it away.

Totally understand why people will like this. The sweet orange blends with ambered woods to make a warm and comforting scent which is discreet, classy and warming.

But because of such poor longevity and projection (this is the bigger issue), it doesn't fit in the winter (since no one can smell you) nor the summer (yes it will project but it isn't fresh enough).

For a comforting amber scent in the designer market, I prefer Chanel Allure pour Homme much more than this. Can't think of another scent with a similar opening though which to be fair, is quite attractive.
11th November, 2011 (last edited: 17th April, 2014)

Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

I get why people like this. It starts fresh and strong, and dries down to a sweet tonka/tobacco concoction which suggests class. Projection and longevity is also very good.

But I don't like this fragrance. Although it does suggest class I find the ingredients in this very harsh, almost industrial even. The lemon is too sour, the lavender is too much, the tobacco note smells cheap. For a fresh scent this smells slightly dated...

Versace's The Dreamer which also shares a tobacco note starts off harsh (not industrial though) and dries down sweet, comforting and mellow. The Dreamer is rustic, yet romantic at the same time. Yet I also parted with this as it felt too rustic. I preferred Dior Homme in the end for a flowery masculine.

Pour Homme just doesn't suit my taste, and the fact that my ex-boss (whom I despise) wears this, it really does't help either.

11th November, 2011

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

This is in relation to the Pure Parfum.

I don't deny that this is a great fragrance which exudes class. But somehow, I prefer my other classy fragrances such as Vetiver Extraordinaire, Geranium PM, Green Irish Tweed.

Perhaps it will get more wearings as the weather cools down, but then I fear that my Fahrenheit will get more wears during those times when going to work.

Starts with a tart grapefruit note, which quickly transitions and mixes with a very very strong cedar note and ISO E Super. I know girls really dig the woodiness here as its very masculine. The grapefruit note along with the benzoin gives you a minerally vibe and along with Ellena's typical transparent style, projects quite a bit, but is never overbearing (unlike in the EDT at tiimes).

Its a really well made scent, but given the other items I have on my wardrobe and the fact that I am more into sensual/dark scents I am willing to part with by 95% full 200ml bottle if there is anyone interested.

For the masculine scents, I prefer my VE.Though of course, as said before, girls really like the woody notes in this one so perhaps this is more of a compliment getter.
11th November, 2011

Gucci Pour Homme II by Gucci

Its a beautiful day scent which is good for late summer/early fall.

I don't know why I don't wear this as much as I should. Perhaps it is more of a comfort scent like L'eau d'Hiver (Frederic Malle) in my wardrobe and is not really masculine.

Chai Tea latte with dabs on condensed milk is what this reminds me of.

I go 4-5 sprays for this one and it does last quite a long time 8-10 hours, but yes, it does not project.

A true comfort scent, and I guess that why I don't wear it enough!

Would have been even nicer if they turned down the sweetness slightly and amped up the myrrh note.
11th November, 2011

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

Really like this scent as it is comforting, ambery and soothing.

It is a very sweet gourmand and I do agree that the vanilla here is not the best around.

But the cinnamon and tobacco + the vanilla really is a soothing masculine concoction.

I don't agree that this smells like Spiriteous Double Vanille. Yes they both do vanilla. But this is more about cinnamon, tobacco (pipe tobacco), and warm vanilla with a little bit of a raisin and eggnog (honey) note during the first few hours. Spiriteous Double Vanille starts very boozy and ends with a vanilla icecream accord.

08th November, 2011 (last edited: 26th January, 2012)

Lyric Man by Amouage

I really like this as a warm weather rose fragrance. I'm not too keen on the opening as it smells lacking in penetration and precision. But the mid and dry down, along with the incense + rose + vanilla is really beautiful.

Its a very very romantic scent.

I don't know if its just me, but I don't find this fragrance to have strong projection and sillage and given that it only spritzes very little, I usually spray myself 6-8 times (1 spritz here is like half of a Creed or Frederic Malle or Le Male).

The other 2 rose scents I have are Une Rose and Portrait of a Lady. Une Rose is a earthy sinister one and Portrait is a goth oriental.

Of the 3, I think Lyric Man is the most romantic of the bunch.
08th November, 2011 (last edited: 11th November, 2011)

Noir de Noir by Tom Ford

ts quite nice, winey, plasticy (truffle accord?), and slightly sweet; definitely a darker rose when compared to Lyric Man. I heard that it is an amped up version of Bond's Westside. I really like it, although it does feel a little bit like a less rosy and more restrained Une Rose from FM if that makes any sense.

If you want to go for something even more over the top, check out Une Rose from Frederic Malle. It is boozier, earthier, more chewy but more winey at the same time (some will find it acetoney).
08th November, 2011

Amber Absolute by Tom Ford

Its very thick and amberish indeed. But not really sweet or cloying. Its more syrupy than vanillic if that makes any sense.

Somehow it feels a bit like petrol in terms of how clean/dirty it is (Fahrenheit) and a mix of Musc Ravageur's animalic notes.


Very unique indeed but I'm not sure I put this ahead of TV and seems like it is very suitable for layering.
08th November, 2011

Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Very realistic bitter orange (or in Asia preserved and salted orange/kum kwats).

It only projects 2 hours on me a;though it will last more than 8 hours (when I shower I can easily smell it). [4 spray]

As such this probably will only be smelt in hot weather, only a summer fragrance....

PV of 12.5% makes this and EDP. If this is the case, it is one of the weakest EDP I have come across.

I like this more than Terre d'Hermes because it is more distinctive in what it does. (Terre is quite weather neural, all season). Some put this head to head with Millesime Imperial for summer but I prefer this because of its uniqueness.

A very good summer casual scent.
30th March, 2011

Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

This is not a "Sport" fragrance at all.

Good for Spring/Summer, along with fragrances such as YSL L'Homme, GIT, so AHS not the freshest thing around.. Nothing unique really but it is well done, although top notes are slightly synthetic.

I like this more than Allure Homme, not because AHS is better, but because there are too many better alternatives under the oriental spicy fragrance category that Allure Homme has to compete against.

AHS smells quite different to Allure Homme . The cedarwood is more prominent and powdery in AHS. AHS is aquatic orange + powdery cedar + creamy musk

Allure Homme = warm slightly bitter orange + dabs of pepper + sweet tonka and sticky amber (labdanum?)

Its actually very sexy.
Aquatic and synthetic mandarin opening transitions to a bit of spices from the pepper and merges with a sweet white musk with a lot of sandalwood.

Definitely a complement getting.

Issue:
Cool Water epitomized the generation above me
Aqua di Gio, Issey Miyake and Le Male epitomized my generation
Now the orange citrus, woods and musk combo epitomizes the current college crowd.

If you want an upgrade and slightly more mature version of this, check out Creeds' Aventus. Its a different fragrance, but the composition is along the same vein.


29th March, 2011 (last edited: 06th April, 2014)

Armani Mania by Giorgio Armani

Rubbish... no projection, no longevity.

if you like the musky drydown of this, opt for 212 Men instead.

From Francis Kurkdjian, creator of Le Male, did not expect that he created something so underwhelming.
29th March, 2011

Burberry London for Men by Burberry

Nice smell indeed.

But with such weak projection and longevity I really don't know when is the best time to use this scent...

Summer, and you smell like a Xmas tree. Winter and no one can really smell you!
29th March, 2011

Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma

Very nice smelling and VERY strong during the first 3-4 hours. This will do very well for a suit and tie gentlemen or during the summer. I find this even more assertive than say, GIT.

But does this remind you of some body deo or Old Spice that one splash on after the shower? Very barbershop, very 'out of the shower and splash' feel.

Very clean, very bright. But for the price point, I am not so keen. Also, parts of it do smell synthetic.

Is this a EDC? Because if it is, its very long lasting indeed, 6-8 hours for me.
26th March, 2011 (last edited: 29th March, 2011)

Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Quite a multi-faceted fragrance, reminds me a little bit of Chanel Allure but much more interesting.

Starts with slightly orange zest and rose. At different times of the day, I will only get woods, cinnamon, nutmeg, or just cloves. So you get a bit of everything from the get go. Very 3 dimensional fragrance; this is what Chanel Allure markets itself to be. Noir Epice is spicier and less sweet or creamy of course.

Surprisingly, I do find this slightly sweet (not tonka or vanilla sweet though), so its not as rough as some people suggest, although I do agree that the spices does not seem to be processed or mixed together for one unified smell.
16th March, 2011