Perfume Reviews

Reviews by alfarom

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Total Reviews: 1209

Dot by Comme des Garçons

What is this?

Ok, at Commes Des Garçons they're not just responsible for daring and artsy stuff, they also provided us with a plethora of easy to like / pop fragrances that have often set the bar for other mainstream brands to follow. Well, Dot doesn't belong in either of these cathegories. Nothing to do with the avant facets of, say, EDP 2011 (the one in the same melted bottle as Dot) or the plush florals of Luxe Champaca. Nothing to do with the abstractness of the original Stephen Jones. Nothing to do with the daring approach of Guerrilla 1. Dot is a complete failure. A disappointment.

A totally uninspired fruity floral with just a tinge of that metallic-incense base that's typical of several CDGs. Not enough character to stand out amongst the most daring deliveries from the house, not good enough to become one of those minor CDGs that while not shining for originality, they still can do the trick as safe-but-solid fragrances.

Too bad because the bottle is cute.


25th October, 2016

Curium [96Cm] by One of Those

I've to admit Curium left me a bit cold the first time around. As often happens with this brand, it's so easy to overlook their fragrances. Their restrained style and the fact they generally opt for a "everyday-wear" kind of approach to perfumery, doesn't help their fragrances to stand-out at first sniff but I've found that a more in-depth experience usually unveils their subtle twists and charm.

As a matter of fact, after I had tried Curium for the first time, dismissing it as "Not My Thing", I realized I remembered exactly how it smelt like. There's something almost subliminal to it, something apparently irrelevant but that, instead, get stuck in your mind. I decided to give it another chance because something that get stuck in your mind like Curium did, surely deserves further exploration so I grabbed a couple more samples and I'm now discovering I'm growing very fond of it.

How it smells like? Smells like the bone-structure of a modern floral musc that have been devoided of any frill. It's a super-dusty, kind of ambrette-seed-ish / iris-y / non-animalic musc. It's a subtle veil that keeps radiating all around you for a whole day. Smells like a tribute to Marie Curie from, say, Ryoji Ikeda. Something that would probably make perfume purists / classicists recoil in horror. I like it.
21st September, 2016

Eau de Gaga by Lady Gaga

If you're up for a cheap thrill, this is it. A zesty / sparkling and aromatic lime opening joined by a kind of watery accord that smells more leafy-violety than actually watery. Everything sharpened by a woody-leather bone-structure. Totally synth and surely not groundbreaking but considering you can find 30ml bottles for 7 euros in discount stores here and there around the globe, you might want to give this a chance as it's actually pretty enjoyable in a hypothetical Azuree Lime ---> woody citrus axis. Completely genderless.

Nice presentation a-la Kilian (ah, the irony). Cheap is good sometime.



18th July, 2016
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Cadavre Exquis by Bruno Fazzolari


I've to say I've been a huge fan of this project since day #1. I've been patiently awaiting for the final result for quite some time now and I can only confirm that the first aspect that's clear when smelling Cadavre Exquis is that it exudes passion. Passion for perfume, passion for art, passion for sharing. The passion of people collaborating on something they love. You may either like or not what you smell but, to me, it's clear enough that the approach to perfumery that both Gardoni and Fazzolari are showing, comes directly from the way they process art in their minds as opposed to dealing with it as a mere "product".

The perfumers are both pretty well known to the most devoted perfumisti for releasing some of the most attention-grabber fragrances of the last five years or so. Gardoni, the man behind italian Bogue Profumo, enriched the perfume world with gems that now need very little introduction such as MAAI, Cologne Reloaded and, lately, the widely acclaimed Aeon 001 while Fazzolari's Lampblack and Room 237 have immediately jumped up there amongst my all-time favorites in contemporary perfumery. They gathered together to give birth to this trans-atlantic project that is Cadavre Exquis.

The fragrance is the result of a four-hands collaboration based on moulds, samples, paintings / drawings exchanges with only one theme framing the whole project: gourmand. As stated on the Fazzolari's website, The term cadavre exquis refers to the game originated by the surrealist artists of the 1920s. In the game, players collectively assemble words or images to create a poem or drawing, with each player making a contribution of his own while totally unaware of the others’. The result is unpredictable and always surprising. The name itself comes from one of the first assembled sentences as reported by surrealist André Breton: “Le cadavre exquis boira le vin nouveau.” (“The exquisite corpse shall drink the new wine.”)

So, the fragrance is supposedly a gourmand but, with much of my joy, there's really not much edible stuff about it. It reads mainly like a cocoa-patch with a camphorous quality up-top and a dark, woody-spicy base with smooth animalic facets. Vanilla does its part too though but without driving the fragrance towards overly sweet territories. In fact, I would describe CE as quite dry in the end. I also get distant florals providing nice refinements. Given the composition process, it's also supposedly a monster, kind of a frankensiein type of composition in which isolated parts were added to the main body almost randomly but, again, the final result feels incredibly coherent and consistent that the chemistry between these two guys seems to have worked pretty darned well.

Don't get me wrong now, Cadavre Exquis is not exactly what I would describe as an "easy" fragrance but it's also far from representing the monster one would expect from the descriptions seen around. Yes, it's bold (but without being overpowering), dark, sometimes even grotesque but in the best possible ways. It has the typical roughness of most indie / artisanal products but it's also very clear that this roughness is something inherent to the style of the perfumers involved. Something completely unrelated to the skills of either. Something that's part of a treasured personal aesthetic that belongs to style and self-expression. Something I would probably compare to the artistic choice of a band to express via a rougher sound as opposed to the super-polished / auto-tuned production of mainstream pop. In other words, a visceral roughness that comes directly from passion.

I could go on and on with a more detailed description of the fragrance itself but I strongly believe any serious perfume lover should at least experience this little jewel that transcends perfumery to bring us back the love for the things we do.

Long live to two of the most interesting and kindest people to populate the current fragrance game.

Rating: no need to rate this. Maximum Support.

15th July, 2016

Hermèssence Muguet Porcelain by Hermès

I made the mistake to dismiss this new Muguet Porcelaine a bit too easily at first but then a couple of friends whose perceptions and tastes I keep in good regard suggested me to give it a second chance and I did. I've to say I partially changed my mind but I'm still not completely sold on this new Hermessence. Probably because, when it comes to fragrance, muguet is not exactly one of my main focuses.

Anyway, Muguet Porcelaine opens with a bizarre muguet and melon combo that while sounding as intriguing as the pleague and cholera at once, it actually works. From one side there's the bitter green floral facets of muguet but they're juxtaposed to a fresh and slightly sweet melon note that makes of this opening something novel enough to hold my attention while still not resulting overly bizarre or exactly weird. In fact, it's very likable. As usual with Hermessence, the fragrance fades pretty soon to evolve into a more conventional "pretty muguet" where the white floral facets are enhanced together with the general *inoffensiveness* of these light concoctions. Something I believe it would be very easy to wear for anyone into light modern florals done with enough class and taste to not fall into overly predictable territories.

Now, even though I'm a fan of Ellena and more generally of Hermes, I'm still not particularly fond of this new launch. I'm not bothered at all by its transparent / waterecolory character but I probably would have appreciated it more if it was launched as part of the Les Jardins series in which, in my opinion, it would have been more properly contextualized. Anyway, despite being far from the genius of other Hermessences such as Cuir D'Ange or, say, Osmanthe Yunnan, Muguet Porcelaine is still worth exploring for representing a nice twist on a genre I'm personally not particularly interested into.

15th July, 2016

Lotus Dust Red by Henrik Vibskov

It's getting very easy to review the majority of new releases because the level is getting so low that there's really not much to say or rant about.

Lotus Dust Red really smells like a whatever floral-tea fragrance that could very easily be a minor release amongst those countless tea-flankers from Bvlgari. As entertaining and interesting as a bus-ride to work.

14th July, 2016

Cedar Root Black by Henrik Vibskov

I had good expectations from the new Vibskov's Cedar Root Black but I've just realized I was probably being tricked by the cutest bottle design I've seen in a while. In fact, the fragrance is a total disappointment.

A thin and extremely derivative woody-peppery thing that you won't be able to tell apart from the plethora of other similarly themed fragrances that invaded the market during the past 15 years or so. From woody-peppery to nothing at all in a matter of minutes.

Completely irrelevant.

14th July, 2016

The Night by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

What's the point with The Night? I mean, why buying oud from Estee Lauder?

Yes, it surely smells more truly oudy than anything else offered by a westerner brand but, trust me, for the same price you can get quite a dollop of the real thing.

Good but ultimately pointless.

14th July, 2016

L'Incendiaire by Serge Lutens

I honestly don't get it. What's so special about L'Incendiaire?

If you like amber + incense, it surely smells good but I don't find anything about L'Incendiaire to be so *sumptuous* or *exclusive* to warrant the vulgar price-tag it goes for. Luxury is one thing, vulgarity is another altogether. In the end, let's face it, this is really just another amber incense in the same mould as Sahara Noir.

B#*ch please!


14th July, 2016

Boy Chanel by Chanel

Boy aka how to modernize an aromatic fougere while keeping it solidly linked to classicism. This is what I get from Boy and I like it.

A lavender-driven aromatic / herbal concoction with some delicate floral hues here and there. It gets a tad too sweet during the middle-phase but the overall sweetness tames down pretty soon to disclosure the most lovely drydown. A fantastic exercise on how to turn a typical testosterone-driven theme (which way too often smells obsolete) into an androgynous fragrance that feels classic without relying on nostalgia and modern without trying so hard to be original.

A good perfume. As simple as that.

Bravo.

14th July, 2016

Divine Attraction by Initio

I've to say that nothing about Initio Parfums catches my interest. Their whole aesthetic and the style of their fragrances remind me too much of a whatever arabic-inspired insta-niche brand. A sort of early-Kilian wannabe but with less focus on marketing.

Divine Attraction makes an exception though. I was honestly expecting a bold animalic leather but with much of my surprise what I got was a simple and yet very striking leathery-vetiver with industrial facets. Think about an hypothetical love-child between Comme Des Garcons Tar and Garage with a bit of Knize Sec thrown in and you get the picture. So, nothing really animalic or *human* here. This is all about rubbery vetiver and smoky leather turning soon into a clean (almost aseptic) woody-incensey base. The fragrance opens quite brutally with an arresting leather note akin at a motor-oil type of accord. In this phase Divine Attraction feels very industrial and daring but it tames down pretty soon unveiling a smooth and somewhat less interesting drydown based on the cleanest vetiver and other smartly dosed woody notes. Again, very simple and surely overpriced but, at least, not as clicheted as I would have expected.

Very nice, after all, even though I find its life-span a bit too short. It starts very promising but it dies down way too soon.

With that said, if you're drown to modern industrial fragrances, Divine Attraction is worth a sniff.

14th July, 2016

Grace by Grace Coddington by Comme des Garçons

I generally dislike rose notes in perfumery. Especially when they lean towards the watery side of the spectrum (eg Amouage Lyric Man which is possibly my biggest fragrance nemesis ever) so I really didn't expect to like the new collaboration bewteen the iconic Grace Coddinngton and Comme Des Garçons. Well, as a matter of fact, Grace surprised me.

An extremely easy to like and very well refined modern rose with a fragile character. Pale, almost whispered but with enough personality to avoid falling into the "fragrance for people who actually don't like fragrances" cathegory. Agrees with white linens, torrid summer nights and walking barefoot but with that certain crystal / plastic quality to keep it urban. There's really not much else to say about Grace smell-wise as the frangrance feels really simple while completely avoiding feeling simplistic. I guess in this specific context we could easily refer to it as a succesful example of true minimalism.

It won't probably make the best starting option for those who are not familiar with this seminal brand yet, but if you're looking for something effortlessly elegant, Grace could really fit your bill.

As the Grace Coddington fragrance, I rank it very high. I believe it completely reflects her personality and style (they really nailed the brief here). As a Comme Des Garçons, I find it a minor release but surely one of their bests amongst their "easiest" launches. Definitely worth a shot. A few words of reference: Hermessence Rose Ikebana, Charenton Macerations Asphalt Rose, Comme Des Garçons 2.
13th July, 2016

Brisas by Acqua Flor

A verbena driven super classic Eau De Cologne. In other words, a Guerlain's Eau wannabe.

Seriously, 120 euros for this? Not even Jo Malone.



24th June, 2016
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Flamboyant by Acqua Flor

I'm afraid this is anything but Flamboyant. Instead this is a very generic transparent citrusy thing with that undefined, faux sandalwoody / mall-oriented woody base. Smells like one of the latest Yves Rochas. Anyone.

24th June, 2016

Aoud by Acqua Flor

Aqua Flor Aoud reminded me of a cheaper version of Kilian's Pure Oud. A stark smoky woody thing that while avoiding smelling like straight up woodyamber it still feels like a wannabe composition that isn't able to stand out in a overly crowded territory.

Meh

24th June, 2016

Hussar by Acqua Flor

Again, my main gripe with this line is the lack of imagination and creativity. Some of their fragrance are actually pretty decent but they all feel like been there done that type of stuff.

Hussar is a tarry industrial leather a-la Nostalgia and Map Of The Heart Black but sweeter than either. So, smoky leather, dark spices and woods on a sweetish / vanillic base. Nice and competently done but ultimately derivative.

24th June, 2016

Zagaria by Acqua Flor

Aqua Flor is a relatively new brand from Florence that offers a huge range of fragrances with an aesthetic that's not so distant from other, more popular, florentine farmacias such as Farmacia SS Annunziata or Santa Maria Novella. I approached a bunch of their fragrances knowing nothing about the brand and, overall, they all strikes as more or less successful replicas of other more popular compositions.

Zagaria is a versatile, masculine citrusy cologne that shares similarities with both Bel Ami Vetiver and Etat Libre D'Orange Je Suis Un Homme. A pretty decent woody citrus with leathery nuances. Probably one of my favorite in their whole range but given the price I don't see many reasons to pick this over the aforementioned fragrances. Tends to become a bit generic during the late dry down.

24th June, 2016

L'Attesa by Masque

Today's fragrance market seems splitted between brands creating new trends and others following them with way too often terrible results. Between blingy and vulgar luxury versus pretentious artsy characters with little substance. Between the so called insta-lines (brands launching 15, completely irrelevant, new fragrances at the same time) and mysterious people resurrecting mysterious brands from another era with *ancient* formulas found in lost apothecary shops around the globe. In this sad and pretty pathetic scenario, Masque is doing its own thing by simply delivering pieces of outstanding perfumery as opposed to ephemeral fashion items and shallowly consumerist luxury products.

I've been a huge fan of Masque since day #1 (make it actually day #2 because I've never had the chance to smell their original two launches from 2012 Dolceacqua and Petra) and I've to say they have never let me down.

This time it's the turn of L'Attesa. An iris-centered composition that despite sounding a bit trendy because of its main player (iris seems to get all the rage from quite some years now), it strikes as a timeless piece of classic perfumery. Whereas most iris fragrances feel either too thin by relying on a temporary green / carroty / leathery / rooty effect to then basically turn into cardboard or go totally lipstick / cosmetic, L'Attesa starts with a unique and yet familiar accord of rooty iris and something I would classify as green and kind of sour (the champagne accord?). The iris becomes more classically powdery while the introduction of an extra floral component preserves the fragrance from falling into the usual *woody* whisper we generally get from modern iris perfumes. it's a full bodied iris that keeps all of its iris-y aspects all the way through its evolution. It's powdery but also leathery, rooty and yet floral, buttery and decadent. A grown-up kind of approach to the main theme or something you would expect from the most classical french perfume brands such as Chanel or the likes. Something that won't make any pants drop or won't make you feel any cooler while wearing it. Something only people who actually like fragrances will probably appreciate in its complex sophistication.

L'Attesa is the proof that perfumery is still alive and that it can be something completely unrelated from fashion. Something that lasts over a single season until the next buzz is build around the next *product*. L'Attesa is perfumery. One of those fragrances that has all the characteristics to become a pillar and jump up there with the monsters of yore of this genre.


02nd June, 2016

Romanza by Masque

The guys at Masque don't miss the chance to deliver yet another piece of great perfumery. Romanza is an incredibly complex fragrance that avoids trends and unnecessary gimmick to focus on what, to me, is a cultured style of perfumery that is sadly getting rarer and rarer.

So, don't expect something easy to like or easy to wear because Romanza is quite an imponent and ambitious composition that takes the best of two worlds and pair them together. On on side there's a somewhat canonic style of perfumery. A certain classicism that's generally inherent to officially trained perfumers while, on the other side, there's an overall artisianal vibe and (more or less) calibrated roughness that's definitely more typical of indie lines and self-taught noses. These two aspects paired together give birth to a decadent and humongous green floral which, either you'll like it or not, won't leave you indifferent.

The fragrance opens extremely green and bitter with a mix of angelica, absinth and florals such as jasmine, narcissus and hyacinth. The florals are so vivid and in your face as in the most classic compositions of the past while a rough edge and a healthy dose of "ugliness" provided by a massive amount of civet preserve the fragrance from feeling pathetically nostalgic and driving it instead towards more artisanal / indie territories. What stylistically comes to mind are some florals by Abdes Salaam as well as Papillon and Bogue but also certain post-Dior-esque florals made in Roudnitska. In this phase Romanza feels incredibly striking, adventurous and creative by continually crossing the boundaries between official perfumery and a more typically-indie style.

A classical, somewhat kind of mainstream base starts lurking in the back introducing a woody vetiver / amber combo to round everything up while paradoxically providing even more decadence. As the base takes over with time, the florals merge perfectly with the rest to turn the composition into an endless and humongous floral of immense beauty.

Now, if you're not after something that's easy to like, if you prefer to seek for beauty instead of having it slammed in your face, if you like complexity as opposed to pop, check this out. Top quality stuff all around.


25th April, 2016

Halfeti by Penhaligon's

Hollywood invaded the market with a massive quantity of franchises that, after the more or less original idea of their respective pilots, they turned into the most shallow and cynical movie projects ever. X-Men 75, Batman 44, Ice Age 36, Toy Story 98 and so on and on and on…

Well, perfumery is following this example and Penhaligon's Halfeti could be re-named Saffron + Faux Oud 5936. We've seen this movie way too many times. Smells decent but It absolutely adds nothing new to the table while potentially subtracting (silly) money from your pockets.

A pretty average and characterless arabian themed composition with saffron, rose, faux oud, patchouli, other woods, other spices. Yawn. In very few words, oriental boredom.








25th April, 2016

Blasted Heath by Penhaligon's

An insanely long lasting and powerful as well as insanely bad, mall-oriented woody-herbal aquatic that you can't tell apart from a plethora of other similarly themed super-mainstream fragrances.

So cheap and uninspired to make even an Avon fan horrifying.

It gets slightly better after a dozen hours but boy it's painful to get there.

25th April, 2016

Ennui Noir by Unum

Ennui Noir is slowly winning me over as a solid, modern oriental fougere. I've to admit I initially struggled with its almost gourmand facets but the composition is balanced by healthy doses of patchouli and vetiver that keep the overall sweetness in check. Yes, it's by all means sweet and vanillic but it also offers nice juxtapositions that prevent the wearer from smelling like a lavender cupcake.

So, a modern oriental fougere with its blast of lavender, a shaprish woody bone structure that, call me names call me whatever you want but to me shares some similarity with current Azzaro Pour Homme, and a patch / heliotrope / anisic / vanilla combo that is not so distant from L'Instant De Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme. Probably not the most innovative fragrance around but if you're into powerhouses that approach late 70s / 80s perfumery with a modern attitude, Ennui Noir is a solid candidate to become a favorite.

Powerful and extremely long lasting.
25th April, 2016

Symphonie-Passion by Unum



Symphonie Passion is basically a riff on the Encre Noire / Sycomore theme. Less sharp and synthetic than the former but also less plush than the latter. It's like if Sycomore was released as part of the Hermessence line. It's a diaphanous, kind of watercolor-y take on a modern woody-vetiver with distant watery floral facets. It's neither groundbreaking nor novel but I'm admittedly a big sucker for airy and fresh woody vetivers so I admit I like this one as well. Scent-wise there's really not much else to describe or say but there are a couple more aspects of this fragrance I'd like to point out.

1) With a name such as Symphonie Passion I honestly expected a big floral and as much as I generally struggle with big florals, my mind still refuses to connect the scent-profile of this composition to its name / concept.

2) This is a light and airy / transparent vetiver which is something that clashes with the fact it's marketed as an Extrait De Parfum. Nothing about Symphonie Passion is even vaguely classifiable as an extrait.

Downline: I like Symphonie Passion, I really do but it's conceptually not coherent so, in the end, I'll probably pull the trigger only if I'll ever stumble on a serious deal because even though I like it, let's face it, the market offers loads of extremely similar fragrances at a fraction of its price.
25th April, 2016

Not a Perfume by Juliette Has a Gun

There's not much to write about *Not A Perfume* because the name says all we need to now about the *fragrance*. Basically a concentrate of all I don't like about mainstream perfumery and modern *faux* niche. Escentric Molecules did something extremely similar a bunch of years before but, at least, they put some effort on the marketing…

Not A Perfume. I couldn't agree more.

26th January, 2016 (last edited: 14th July, 2016)

Fresh Couture by Moschino

I so wanted to like Fresh Couture but I'm afraid I really couldn't. The whole packaging and concept could have given birth to something really interesting. Something that with just a bit of imagination and courage could have turned into the *next-level* of *anti-luxury* products started more than a decade back by Comme Des Garcons with the *Odeurs* duo and later by Lush with Dirty.
A statement against modern, inoffensive and characterless perfumery. A statement against pretentiousness trapped in fancy bottles. Yes, this is what Fresh Couture could have been but I'm afraid this is the most vile and hilariously cheap smelling fruity floral I've smelled to date. It basically smells like Windex with a girly twist. Terrifying. Stay well away.

A sadly missed opportunity.
26th January, 2016

Floriental by Comme des Garçons

I approached Floriental with very low expectations because while I'm surely amongst the biggest fans of Comme Des Garcons, their Puig-owned branch (responsible for all the fragrances in the oval-shaped flacons) it's not the best example of the house's creative vein. Floriental is definitely not a creative fragrance and despite it's all about very familiar oriental accords, it's also so easy to pull off that it makes a perfect daily wear for anyone who's up for something reasonably priced the doesn't feel cheap or too derivative.

We talk about a balmy oriental with the typical CDGs woody-incense base, hints of sandalwood and vetiver, some smooth florals and a pale fruity vibe. It feels completely genderless, with a velvety texture that never falls into overly screechy synth territories. Ok, it's probably not the most original blend around but, as usual with Ccomme Des Garcons, it feels incredibly honest, never cheap and widely wearable by anyone.

Put this juice in a whatever high-end niche bottle and you will have to pay at least 200 bucks for 50mls. From Amouage to Tom Ford via the plethora of *new niche* brands.


04th November, 2015

Sauvage by Christian Dior

I don't know where to start with Sauvage.

For unknown reasons, I really wanted to like it. There's something about most Dior's mainstream masculines that's never *too banal* or *too cheap* and, on top of that, the association between the words Dior and Sauvage must have played some mental tricks on me and made me think about Roudnitska's classic Eau Sauvage. Ok, we all know this is not an Eau Sauvage flanker and as a new, massively advertised, delivery from Dior, I thought I couldn't have skipped it.

For starters, this is not as bad as I expected. It's not even as bad as a rushed test might lead to think….but it's bad anyway in the end.

I won't go through a proper note breakdown because there's really not much to mention here. The opening it's the most generic peppery-citrus combo you could expect from a whatever modern woody-citrus fragrance. Slightly aromatic, zingy and metallic.The first hour in, I was really this close to dismiss it but then a smooth mineral amber base (ambroxan) broke in together with vetiver and things slightly changed. The fragrance plays in the same league as other *depersonalizing*, post-disinfectant fragrances such as Bleu de Chanel, Guerlain's L'Homme Ideal and before these, D&G Light Blue Pour Homme and L'Eau D'Issey but it takes the distance from the aforementioned perfumes by skipping that certain synth-y stickiness and / or loud volume that made all of them completely annoying to me. The Dior has a certain *raison d'être* provided by an elegant restraint and a class that is completely missing in most similar fragrances available on the market. It wears smooth and velvety with nice dark-ish facets in the base. It's extremely simple but, at least, they got right one of the two accords from which it is composed.

Do I like it? Let's put it this way: It doesn't completely suck. In the end, while I surely believe Sauvage is by far the best fragrance in this post Bleu De Chanel-phase, I still wonder if we really needed a post Bleu De Chanel phase. It feels deprived of any emotional aspect but not in a creative kind of way. It's unemotional without that certain sparkle that makes the difference between the words *aseptic* and *aloof*. It feels devoided. It's carb free, gluten free, peanut free, allergens free…it's too politically correct. Ok, it's well done but for me it's not enough and, in the end, I guess it's just another fragrance for people who actually don't like fragrances.

Last but not least, I'm not the biggest fan of the Dior Homme saga but compared to this, they're completely on another level. Like completely.

09th September, 2015

NO ± Suede by Uèr Mì

If, like me, you have a penchant for modern stuff, Suede by Uermi is anything but novel. It's basically a safraleine bomb with a thin woody balsamic base. It has been done, and with better results, by several other *modern / avant-garde* niche lines before.

Etat Libre D'Orange did something similar with their Tom Of Finland (by the same perfumer, BTW) which feels in comparison more complex, less rushed and more pleasantly *perfumey*. Comme Des Garcons, on the other hand, opted for a truly avant-garde iteration of the saffron-leather combo with their EDP 2011 (the one in the melted bottle) which, as for today, it's still one of the most creative use of this aromachemical.

In the end, Suede it's neither fish nor fowl and it falls in a gray area in which it doesn't accomplish a status either as an avant-garde composition or a safer one. It's just plain modern dullness.

A minor note on the packaging: The overall apothecary vibe of the label and box, makes it look like a cheaper version of LeLabo.


18th August, 2015

French Leather by Memo

A fruity, kind of metallic, transparent rose with woody-leathery facets laying on a super-synth musky base. It smells modernly anonymous, completely inoffensive and as exciting as doing the dishes at night. The overall feel is the same of when you hear a new song by some unknown emerging pop-star on the radio. You have that sense of deja-vu provided by the catchy melody inspired by a plethora of other previous similar songs. The production is overly polished, the singer has an anonymous voice most probably adjusted with some auto-tune kind of plug-in, you don't change station just because you're lazy but, ten minutes after you've heard the song, you completely forget both about it and about the *artist*.

French Leather is basically the same. A minor release in a overly-crowded market. A filler nobody needed. A release some will like and others won't. A release nobody will speak about in one year. The equivalent of a minor pop singer.

18th August, 2015

Omega by Mendittorosa

Omega opens like confetti. A sweet, powdery vanilla with jasmine facets. It soon falls into overly crowded synth dry-woody territories in which resins and faux oud mash up with iris-y kind of elements while the overly present vanilla still remarks its presence.

Meh.


17th August, 2015