Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Norstrøm

Total Reviews: 5

Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

...honey, oozing out of the jar, trickling down on warm skin...

This one is so much more than the sum of its parts.

...a thorned rose caressing the skin, does it cause pain or pleasure?...

It creates an illusion, a personal mirage.

...they burn some incense paper, trying to mask the scent of their carnal act. Sweet benzoin, paper, ashes...

Some will find its scent euphoric, others will find it shameful. Both will acknowledge its sensuality. My personal mirage is that of still warm and moist worn panties (sic!). I don’t know how Francis Kurkdjian created that effect, but kudos to him, for it is a very evocative and organic fragrance. It seems to breathe and have its own beating heart.
The illusion of the... dirty laundry... seems to come and go, and relies on specific materials, that cause olfactory fatigue, so I will only get the effect if I have not worn it for a while.

In a house that offers mostly safe and mainstreamish scents, this is truly a standout fragrance and I hope they never discontinue it, as this is some of the highest art in perfumery.

This one is a well of life and warmth, unfiltered and unwashed.
31st January, 2018

1725 Casanova by Histoires de Parfums

Soft whispers, almost below the threshold of hearing. You cannot pinpoint their source, but you are drawn to them instinctively, a pull facilitated by tugging on strings deep in your mind, the autonomous part over which you have no control.

Casanova does not need to announce its presence with noise and movement, instead you are spellbound, as it lures you in, utterly in the grasp of its arcane knowledge, now forgotten by the rest of the world.

So soft, yet absolutely overpowering, like being fettered and taken away in chains of vanilla pudding, spiced with liquorice and lavender, decorated with the tiniest slice of citrus. Eat up, if you find the almond in the pudding, you get a prize!


Oh, you found it! Have your prize: a wonderful drydown of creamy woods, vanilla and a touch of amber.

A drydown you could fall into, forgetting all around you, amnesia by bliss.

That is how this Casanova seduces you; by surprise, not by true and tangible force, it lights up what is already inside you, kindles it, altering the balance of your self, to alter your course.

A deceitful lighthouse, pulling you in, instead of warning you of the treacherous reef right beneath the surface of the water, fueled not by oil or electricity, but by siren song.

Come closer.
06th August, 2017

Bel Ami by Hermès

The Eighties... So many great things saw the world for the first time in that decade; Fahrenheit, Égoïste, me, and Bel Ami.

When I first fell in love with it, it was actually not really Bel Ami, it was Puredistance M. I got a decant of it, and I was instantly seduced by the rich leather, the alluring spices, the light but brilliant citrus dancing with the florals, and the warm and deep, woody base.
M was classy, but a bit over the top at times, as the intensity of the extrait concentration is immense.

After discovering that M (and another of Dove's "creations") was merely a facsimile, a clone, an hommage to Bel Ami, I decided to get my hands on this rare eighties icon.

Crazy thing is... It's true. The balance... The beauty... All of it. It's all true. Every single thing I heard and read about the original Bel Ami was never an exaggeration, but the unrefutable truth.

This fragrance is one the best leathers, if not THE best, I have EVER put my nose on. Cozy, charming, deep, warm and enveloping, yet toned down and with more citrus than Puredistance M, making it very easy to wear in the heat, without having to worry about the number of sprays. It has this inherent balance, that could only have been achieved by some arcane, dark and foul magic, because it is so unreal.

Perhaps that is why Sieuzac did not pen more fragrances? He might have sold his soul, so as he could burn as bright as a thousand suns to make only a few, yet immense, fragrances.

It is a funny thought, and if it has even a grain of truth in it, I and the rest of the fragrance community thank Mr. Sieuzac for his sacrifice.

This is one that touches the heart.
12th July, 2017
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Sauvage by Christian Dior

How could the man who penned Leather Oud and the house behind a modern classic like Dior Homme and a portfolio of legends commit such a crime against humanity?

Sauvage is the scourge of this age, tailored to fit the shallow and self-absorbed trend of the time. Grace, manners, style, respect, balance, wisdom, and art? Out with all that, now all that matters is who is the loudest for the longest time. And Sauvage is loud. I long thought, that Paco Rabanne's Evil Million was the ultimate olfactory WMD, but somehow Demachy and Dior trumped it by several lengths!

The ambrox overload puts everyone on the vicinity of the "wearer" in a death grip, that would make even Darth Julius Vader himself give a respectful tip of the helmet. Usually ambrox is a great material to work with, as it enhances everything with an organic, soft and exalting glow, but its beauty and purpose has been corrupted, transforming it into a piercing weapon from which there is no escape.

No escape.....
12th July, 2017

Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

Opium... Bel Ami... Fahrenheit!

Sieuzac was not prolific, but with icons like that on his CV, he could easily make many a nose green with envy.

Fahrenheit was a rebel when it was released, and it still is to this day. A true gamechanger. Not just in the world of fragrance, but probably also for many of the wearers. I know it changed a lot for me.

Fahrenheit was probably the scent, that made me realise, that fragrances are not just nice smells; they can be art and stir one's emotions.

How evocative it was! That almost chameleonic ability to morph between gentle florals and creamy woods, and into a leatherjacket wearing, lawn-mowing animal.

Many say it is more of a winter fragrance, but to me it has always screamed "SUMMER!" From the first spray years ago, it has always conjured up the image of fresh cut grass and a petrol-driven lawn mower. When I need to feel and smell the summer, this is what I reach for.

Ever since that first day, it has been a mainstay of my evergrowing collection, always hanging on to the top, as one of my true favourites.

They say first loves never truly die.

When it comes to Fahrenheit, the saying is most fitting; I will always love this one and have it in my collection.

PS: My mum thought it smelled like pickled cucumbers.
12th July, 2017