Reviews by zztopp

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    zztopp
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    A*Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler

    Top notes: fruity notes
    Heart notes: wood notes, malt
    Base notes: oriental accords, smoky accords, peat.

    A Basenotes classic of sorts (for all the wrong or right reasons depending on your point of view), Pure Malt is yet another good Angel/A*Men flanker from Mugler. This is a two tier construction, with the unique distinguishing notes fitted on top of a toned down but still perceptible, familiar and winning base of A*Men. If you haven't tried A*Men, the base is an intoxicating and addictive concoction of chocolate, mint, woods and patchouli. Not as ravishing as in the original, the presentation here is muted and more streamlined as in Ice*Men. What you get on top is what you are paying the bucks for - a clean, cherry accented whisky/malt note with a caramel undercurrent which alludes to Canadian whisky. It is well done and finely integrated with the A*Men base. If you aren't partial to Angel/AMen, Pure Malt might not be enough of a twist to convince you. But for everyone else this is well worth a (whisky) shot.

    Rating: 8.25/10.0

    12nd December, 2011.

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    Angel Garden Of Stars - Violet Angel by Thierry Mugler

    Notes:
    Top: Violet Green, Crystallized Sugar
    Middle: Violet, Woody Notes
    Base: Patchouli, Vanilla Notes

    Part of the Garden of Stars collection by Mugler, which are floral renditions of the classic Angel, Violet Angel manages to retain the alluring gourmand character of the classic while inserting a facade of violets.

    Violet opens with a sweet slightly sugary violet flower note. Violet flower can be a temperamental note with many a bad and overpowering renditions on the market. The perfumer F. Caron was obviously aware of this as Violet Angel's sugar-violet note, while imbued with sweet sugar and floral tones, is output at half the wattage as most other violet dominant fragrances. You get the violet sweetness dusted by sugar crystals but due to the lower sillage it somehow isn't as bothersome as the description would have you believe. There is little to none of any violet leaf's green character...sweet sugar dipped violets is what the top notes are about. The rest of the fragrance is Angel/A*Men patchouli-woods-vanilla gourmand framework without the chocolate-mint fireworks.

    I would say that Violet Angel, surprisingly, succeeds. It presents a somewhat interesting and less annoying sweet violet note overlaid on a bed of gourmand basenotes. Its far less intense and loud than its big sister Angel, and consequently might be easier to wear for some. Interms of complexity and impact its nowhere near the classic that is Angel, but it may find its audience amongst people who are too scared to dip directly into the vast intimidating pool of Angels original brew.

    Rating: 7.5/10.0

    2nd May, 2011.

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    Amber & Lavender by Jo Malone


    Notes:
    Top: Mint, Bergamot, Lavender
    Middle: Clove, Cinnamon, Lily-of-the-valley
    Base: Myrrh, Patchouli, Amber

    Formerly a bespoke fragrance for Malone's husband, Amber & Lavender is a dry soapy fougere which used to be one of my favorite clean fragrances five or so years ago but now, either due to evolving tastes or a possible reformulation, smells somewhat imbalanced and not very lavendery or ambery. It smells like Cartier's Roadster run over by a truck.

    The opening is bright, minty, airy and somewhat astringent. I suspect this is mostly due to a high dose of mint intermingling with an airy effervescent clove note with the french lavender providing only the camphoric and slightly smoky aspects of its less fragrant characteristics. In a formula boasting sharp bright notes such as clove and mint, I would have preferred the denser more fragrant english lavender to provide balance and some lavender persistence. Instead the clove and mint combo further overpower any tinny floral echoes from the lily of the valley note, and drill down further into the basenotes where a bitter myrrh note does the same squashing act on the amber. I was hoping for a warm lavish amber base...instead I get the three stooges shouting at the top of their voices: clove, mint, and myrrh.

    A&L is a clean soapy herbal Gendarme-like fragrance. If you are looking for a top notch lavender fragrance, this isn't it. If you are looking for a sensual amber fragrance, this isn't is. Even in the spartan simple-formula Jo Malone catalog A&L struggles to stand out. I would like to know what Malone's husband wears now. I suspect he has moved on for a reason.

    Rating: 6.5/10.0

    11th April, 2011.

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    Kenzo Power by Kenzo

    Top notes: Bergamot, coriander, cardamom.
    Middle notes (an abstract floral heart): Rose, jasmine, freesia.
    Base notes: Tolu balsam, cedar wood, labdanum.

    Composed by Olivier Polge, he of the Dior Homme fame, Kenzo Power is a floral-woods fragrance which is more conventional than Dior Homme but still succeeds due to its great balance and mix of standard 'masculine' accords.

    The opening is a much maligned "spice and citrus" combo, but composed with better materials than the trite used in many a 'sports' cologne on the market today. Featuring an overdose of bergamot which brings about flashes of Earl Grey tea and a velvety cardamom note, this is a spicy-citrus combo a step or two above the likes seen in dire stuff such as Dior Homme Sport or Bleu de Chanel. The heart notes feature an 'abstract' rendition of floral notes...mainly what I smell is a cool rose note with a sweet jasmine and freesia combo. The cardamom and coriander from the top note ensure that Kenzo Power does not turn into a 'flower power' monster. Also at times I get a dusty iris note ala Dior Homme, but to be sure this is no iris or floral power house. I suspect Olivier Polge mixed in an iris synthetic just to impart a signature and a latent link to his greatest hit yet. The base is a rich tolu balsum vanilla-woods type accord which extends the longevity of Kenzo Power to over 7 hours.

    Kenzo Power lacks the daring pizzaz of the iris-overdosed Dior Homme (Polge's best fragrance composition ever), but does an admirable job of jolting a tired spicy-citrus floral-woods genre to life with its quality presentation and balance. It won't set the world on fire but is a good, somewhat safe choice for Mr. Reliable. Consider it Polge's Insomniac.

    Rating: 7.75/10.0

    26th February, 2011.

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    Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain

    Notes: Vanilla, spices, benzoin, frankincense, cedar, pink pepper, bergamot, Bulgarian rose and ylang ylang.

    Guerlain's S. Double Vanille (SDV) might be an "exclusive" Guerlain vanilla but its also a strange, somewhat disappointing creation. I suspect there is very little, if any, actually quality bourbon or tahiti vanilla extract in SDV. Its a double vanilla in spirit only...a double crosser..

    From a house which has such an intimate association with vanilla, JP-Guerlain decided to go the fantasy recreation way - i.e., to recreate the aroma of of freshly cut open vanilla pods. The extract obtained from vanilla pods have a distinct rich aroma (quite a bit superior to the overly sugary sweet synthy ethyl-vanillin), which for technical reasons is much different from the tobacco-ish, rich, intense, somewhat medicinal sweetish aroma of fresh vanilla pods. Instead of creating a unique new vanilla fragrance based on the best essences, Guerlain opted to re-create the vanilla pod aroma using various notes...an admirable challenge, but I am not sure it was worth it. First, the vanilla pod aroma isn't the most attractive smell. Second, the recreation found in SDV lacks the bombastic impact of the actual thing, whether due to material quality or perfumer skill. SDV opens with a strong boozy note, with hints of bergamot, and before unfolding into a collage of woody notes dusted with light spices and a cool rose note. The "woody" note has a strong cedar character, and in concert with the booze and florals forms a very persistent and linear accord. There's a harsh element to this cedar/wood note, and to me it and the booze note overpower SDV way too much. Some woody incense in the base is, wait for it, finally joined by some typical Guerlinadish vanilla and thats about the full show here.

    From the house that gave us great vanilla dominated Guerlinade and the classic Shalimar (parfum), SDV seems like Guerlain were trying to hard. I have issues with the perfume brief, as well as the composition and some of the notes. It has its fans, but if those fans have worn some of the Guerlain classics over the years, I can't imagine why they would go gaga over something which smells like the concept of Shalimar wafting through the "liberal-with-synthetics recreation" brain cells of Francis Kurdjian..

    10th October, 2010.

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    Bleu de Chanel by Chanel


    I have been wearing Bleu on and off for about 2 weeks now..and everytime I wear it I say: Wow!
    Wow as in...is this how low Chanel can sink? Bleu is a new low for the Chanel mainstream line, especially for a fragrance supposed to spearhead the men's line.

    From the ad copy: "..for the man who defies convention, and resists the ordinary every day, finding satisfaction in the unexpected." Oh the irony...Bleu has one of the most conventional current accords running through its blue veins, i.e., the mundane and tired 'sport' cologne citrus-ginger-woody amber mix. Ignore the somewhat attracting looking notes list, Bleu starts with a half-decent citrus mix (light years from some of the attractive citrus notes of the very best fragrances), which within a few minutes morphs into a standard sports accord...the generic and drab spicy-citrus woods mix, with a bit of ginger and nutmeg and some cheap cedar. Infact, this is very much like Dior Homme Sport...go on, I challenge you, spray the two side by side and compare. If you have tried Dior Homme Sport, you would know its as banal as a sports fragrance can be ...but atleast its a flanker to the rather fantastic Dior Homme. No, Chanel is actually willing to pass off a flanker-caliber juice as a line spearhead. The nerve!

    Can things get worse for Bleu? Yes they can. It ends on one of the most overused and woody-amberish bases around. I mean really, Mr. Polge, where was that budget used? Its certainly not evident in the materials, which might be one of the lowest quality in a Chanel frag yet. Its definitely not in any innovative formula invention....Bleu is a sports cologne formula done a gazillion times before. I thought Guerlain Homme was poor, but Bleu takes the cake...I can see Guerlain pointing and smirking at this concoction of banality. Its not like the designers can't conjure quality juices..Cartier's Roadster, Dior Homme, Terre d'Hermes are all quality offerings. And its not like Chanel spearheads have been crappy...even after reformulations, the powerhouse Antaeus stands tall, the groundbreaking woody-oriental Egoiste attracts, the smoky green lavender of Plat. Egoiste impresses and the milky-woody base of Allure homme seduces. Also, Bleu is clearly a woody-aromatic, not an aquatic...even if a forced connection/comparison needs to be made, comparing it to top notch aquatics such as Kenzo pour homme, Erolfa, Millesime Imperial, or Bulgari Aqua is an insult to those fragrances. The only connection Bleu will have with the ocean is when I throw my bottle into the sea..

    Rating: 4.5/10.0

    6th September, 2010.

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    Eau Duelle by Diptyque

    Notes:
    Top: Cardamom, Asian cypress, Elemi, Juniper, Peppercorn
    Middle: Saffron, Calamus, Black tea
    Base: Olibanum, amber, Firnat Vanilla, Bourbon Vanilla, white musk

    The first thing that hits me about Eau Duelle (ED) are the spices...cold, aromatic, quality cardamom jumping off my skin with green herbal cypress made refreshing by a good infusion of refreshing black tea. This is a lively, invigorating citrusy spice smorgasbord which avoids all the typical eye- and nostril-burning cliches. But it gets even better due to a great use of calamus, its greenish cinnamon-like aroma imparting a grassfields effect to the composition. Not quite as high fidelity as the green leaves extract in Xerjoffs Nio, buts it does its job well.

    So where's the vanilla ?

    Its there in the base, but Eau Duelle is hardly a vanilla dominated fragrance. The marketing promos have been making a forced connection. This is an oriental-spicy fragrance which by category definition has to contain vanilla in the base. What vanilla is there, is not super impressive. The promo materials talk about a blend of the Firnat vanilla molecule and bourbon vanilla blend. What I get is a little bit of sweet-hay like character of bourbon, then a whole lot of ethyl vanillin type sweet vanilla with white musk. And all this happens mostly in the base, where the faint remnant of the far more attractive spicy top can be felt. For a clear feel of how prominent and quality orchid flower and bourbon vanilla should smell, just one sniff of Creeds Sublime Vanille should do the trick. ED's 'vanilla' just can't compare. Infact, in the base I get a lot more incense (the good citrusy variety) than vanilla.

    Eau Duelle is going to disappoint if you want a top notch vanilla fragrance. Its not. Its a quality spicy oriental which for some weird reason is being marketed as a 'vanilla' fragrance. I guess a (very) tenuous connection can be made to the rich fruity, spicy, sweet coffee aroma of vanilla beans, but even then ED would be an extremely weak rendition of it. Like people who obsess about being Italians when they clearly are not (and don't have the cojones), this marketing angle is annoying. Let ED stand for what it is.

    Rating: 7.75/10.0

    5th September, 2010.

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    Aventus by Creed

    Aventus is the latest Millesime/EDP from Creed and I will start off by first commenting on the bottle. I am not a bottle person, but I own a 2.5Oz flacon and this is the first time I have felt attracted to a bottle...despite initial impressions of unevenness in pics, the bottle looks and feels extremely solid and bad ass. The leather is quality and tightly wrapped around the flacon, and the 'black' theme is pronounced. Imagine a cross of Johnny Depp from 21 Jump Street and Brandon Lee from The Crow...its the GIT black matte flacon for the year 2500.

    Now onto the fragrance...despite some comments flying around on boards, this is not a 'fresh' or 'aquatic' fragrance. I believe at this point in time I am about the only one spraying this straight from the bottle onto my wrists, and can with abandon. Built on the fruity-chypre genre established by Mitsouko, Aventus is a fruity-chypre "for men"...and by "for men" I mean toned down in its overall intensity so as not to pump out massive sillage. The fruity part comes first...and its a burst of one of the finest pineapple notes on the market (only L'Artisans Ananas Fizz comes close) accented by tart apples and a bit of bergamot. Smells great, caught my attention, lets move on! The progression is smooth as butter to the next component which is a modicum of blackcurrant and patchouli...neither of the components are intense or fleshed out (Creed aren't big on patchouli or anything earthy), but their job here is to induce a weird medicinal-fruity aroma...and in this case weird is good. A drop or jasmine and rose sparkle in the background, mostly to soften the composition. And this brings to close the first half of the show. Pineapple/tart apples, some medicinal currant and patchouli combo, and a bit of floral show. Thats the fruity part of the fruity-chypre taken care of and with very subtle balance no less.

    Then begins the more intriguing transformation...dry smoky birch, with some remnants of the patchouli-currant from the top, and ofcourse the oak moss...the 2nd half of Aventus is smoky, dry, parched and mossy. Its excellently constructed but also very low key...like a subtle layer of mystery chypre goodness. Our good Creed friend ambergris also makes and appearance in cahoots with a little vanilla and musk. Longevity is good at around 6 hours, with some components such as the currant, patchouli or smoky birch becoming more prominent in hot weather.

    Aventus is one of the best fruity-chypres to come out in recent years, made with good ingredients and tightly constructed. Some may complain about the fruit notes, some may say the patchouli isn't strong enough, and some may complain about the low key basenotes. My personal opinion is that this is about the only fruity-chypre that I can wear on a daily basis, with the only other one that I like (Mitsouko EDP) reserved for night wear because of its special intensity. I actually prefer Aventus's pineapple/apple to Mitsouko's peach top notes. Also, I would have preferred a more intense smoky-mossy base ala Mitsouko. But what Aventus does deserves credit...one of the best fruity-chypre's in recent years, good enough for everyday wear, and a unique entry in the Creed catalog. Napoleon would be proud.

    Rating: 8.5/10.0

    4th September, 2010.

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    Café Noir by Ava Luxe

    Notes:
    Top: Black coffee bean, Allspice Berries, Cardamom, French Lavender
    Middle: Attar of Roses, Cedar, Patchouli, Vanilla, Mocha
    Base: Sandalwood, Siam Benzoin, Ambrette seeds.

    Ava Luxe's Cafes Noir (CN) is not only one of the best coffee scents on the market, its also a top notch gourmand. CN is Serge Lutens doing a coffee scent..and doing it right. Not only is it better than most Lutens orientals, never descending into an overwhelming sugary-spicy oriental, its also as good or better in the quality of materials used.

    CN is cleverly bookended by two coffee materials in the top and basenotes. You get a full coffee experience with this one, not just a deceptive blink-and-you-miss top notes "ghost note". CN opens with a bracing lavender (no citrus) immediately followed by a top notch roasted coffee aroma. This opening accord is lent more complexity by a hint of sweet berries, and then CN really blooms...the fragrance expands into that oh-so-characteristic wide panoramic and somewhat intimidating Lutens oriental landscape. A dense, vanilla-spicy-floral oriental showcase with light hints of the roasted coffee blast from the top notes. But before it starts to get overbearing, yet another transformation takes place...the intensity gradually (and thankfully) starts to recede, giving way to yet another coffee note variant, this time a lactones-infused milky mocha aroma, mixed with a top notch sumatra benzoin note possessing that typical smoky-vanilla quality expected of good grade benzoin. CN never gets overwhelming yet has a strong presence ..it lasts a good 7-8 hours.

    CN shares some similarities with Bond no.9s New Haarlem in that both feature a lavender and roasted coffee note in the top. But CN outdoes both of Maurice Roucels offerings (New Haarlem and Rochas Man) interms of its overall complexity. Compared to CN, Jo Malone's Black Vetyver Cafe is a different beast...its a cologne-splash on type of fragrance which CN is a full on oriental coffee beast. I still prefer New Haarlem because it provides a nice compromise between Vetyver Cafe's lightness and CN's oriental forcefulness, but I can understand coffee/gourmand lovers if they are snared by Ava Luxe's best-in-class composition.

    Rating: 9.0/10.0

    31st August, 2010.

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    Black Vetyver Café by Jo Malone

    Notes:
    Top: Black roasted coffee, cistus oil
    Heart: Nutmeg, green pepper, coriander
    Base: Vetiver, sandalwood, sequoia wood, lichen, temple incense, vanilla

    Black Vetyver Cafe (BVC) gives a typical Jo Malone fragrance performance - that of a light, streamlined, somewhat linear fragrance made with clear, unobstrusive materials that reflect the name on the bottle. BVC is a coffee fragrance light enough for tea people, a gourmand for the sporty, non-sweet tooth crowd, the smell of downtown Seattle in heat.

    BVC renders the coffee note without the cream (New Haarlem) or the intense coffee bean innards aroma (Eau des iles) - imagine walking into a neighborhood coffee shop, glancing at the beans in their glowing canisters and inhaling the diluted aroma wafting about. Its a coffee aroma from the surroundings, not a forced dip-thy-nose-into-the-bean-bag experience. Coffee is usually rendered using Furfyl Mercaptan molecules, but the rendition in BVC seems to be primarily "prenoid" mercaptans, i.e. more focused on the 'fresh roast' aroma. A little dry herbal labdanum joins in the top notes; its a linear light coffee aroma, lightly spiced with nutmeg, with shades of green vetiver, and sweetened with a drop of vanilla. There are no citrus or florals in the formula to round out or soften the composition, but I guess thats why the sillage is toned down so as not to impart a bone dry feel..

    BVC may disappoint people looking for a powerhouse gourmand or coffee fragrance but we already have many such screaming powerhouses on the market. BVC is light and dry enough for me to classify it as a Eau d'Coffee Cologne... its not remarkably complex or unique, but thats why it fits perfectly in the Jo Malone Parfum catalog. New Haarlem is still King, but BVC could be a crowd favorite..


    Rating: 7.75/10.0

    19th August, 2010.

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    212 Men on Ice (2009) by Carolina Herrera

    Notes:
    Top: Lemon Tree Leaf, Grass
    Middle: Ginger, Gardenia, Green Pepper
    Base: White Musk, Sandalwood, Lignum Vitae, Incense.

    212 Men On Ice (MIC) is a fresh citrus fragrance with an internal frame that is similar to so many 'sports' fragrances that have invaded the perfume counters all over the world...and by that I mean a generic citrus top, then spices (read: ginger) followed by a uber generic woody drydown.

    With such generic and uninspiring preconditions, and the fact that the most interesting thing about MICs notes listing was 'Lignum Vitae' (which in this case translates to a standard woods note), things dont look promising...unless you are someone who actually likes these 'sports' fragrances. MIC injects somewhat unique notes in each of the phases...the top is a decent lemon citrus with a subdued use of a 'mown grass' note lending a grassy effect to the citrus top. The ginger note is thankfully subdued in the hearts note, with 'gardenia' providing a sweet floral contrast to the citrus-spice accord. The base is standard woods but with a very light bitter incense note. And voila! you have a generic sports fragrance which actually manages to distinguishes itself by the slimmest of margins. MICs structure reminds of that joke where two guys were being chased by a tiger and one says to the other: I just need to outrun you to save myself! Muhahahaha...

    Rating: 6.5/10.00

    9th August, 2010.

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    Jardin Clos by Diptyque

    Jardin Clos is Diptyque's rendition of an english garden. Void of any forced recreations of tea, biscuits, snootiness and proper mannerisms, Jardin Clos focuses on recreating the spring time aromas wafting through the air..more specifically something green and floral like hyacinths.

    Jardin Clos is a Floral Green which composition based on a successful rendering of a prominent hyacinth note. The top is a burst of clear unobtrusive watermelon which rapidly gives way to a huge hyacinth heart with a very secondary sweetish floral lilac note. Make no mistake this is all about the hyacinth though, and a very good hyacinth it is. Its a dense green accord with tiny floral accents..the hyacinth is good enough to make me believe that maybe just maybe Diptyque were able to source some (very rare!) hyacinth absolute, but most likely it is a great reconstruction of hyacinth using quality materials including benzyl acetate, lyral, terpineol and others. Like most diptyque's, the core accord materializes like a monolithic block, and after about 6-7 hours the base makes an appearance, its cedary-balsamic tone, while pleasant, nothing but an after thought.

    Jadin Clos is a quality hyacinth fragrance, green enough to be unisex, not overly floral, and typically Diptyque in its focus on a main accord and little else. Some may want more dynamism and complexity in the heart notes, and a clearer 3-tier presentation. But like the Saw movies if you know Diptyque you pretty much know what and how you will be getting what you seek..

    Rating: 8.25/10.0

    29th July, 2010.

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    Quercus by Penhaligon's

    Notes:
    Top: Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Bergamot, Basil
    Heart: Jasmine, Lily of the valley, Cardamom
    Base: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Galbanum, Musk, Amber

    I sat down with a bunch of new samples to review, and Quercus was the first one out of the batch. I tried it a couple of times, ran an errand while wearing it, and then thought to myself...should I spend my time and effort reviewing such a super-generic by the numbers fragrance such as Quercus (british oak) when this fragrance smells nothing like the astringent british bark or their sweetish flowers. I mean really why should I spend my precious time describing its decent but workmanlike lime-mandarin opening, a most-common lily of the valley floral heart with a dusting of light cardamom, and an overwhelmingly white musk base with a drop of green in the form of galbanum and little to no moss? Quercus is so light, distant and generic that many will think that Penhaligons has sold out...but the truth is they sold out quite some time ago. I don't demand mind-bending, industry shattering formulas from every new fragrance I try ...thats just impossible. I do however like standard accords if they are well done with some twist ...but Quercus is just standard. Next !!

    Rating: 5.5/10.0

    24th July, 2010.

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    Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon's

    Notes: Lemon, Lime and Lavender, Pine, Musk and Black pepper

    The flagship fragrance of the english house Penhaligons, Blenheim Bouquet (BB) is a stoic, angular and very British composition. An ofcourse by "very British" that it would imply that it uses a mixture of natural smelling citrus notes and eugenol-powered notes such as eucalyptus, pine or menthol. In the case of BB, the proper, uptight images of royalty are painted through a clear, tart, lime-dominated citrus blast subtly supported by a workmanlike lavender note before the star twist emerges..considering that in circa early 1900s most EDC-type fragrances were extremely ephemeral liquids of splash-on pleasure lasting barely 15mins, BB distinguishes itself by eschewing a typical floral and/or herbs laden heart and inserting a cool, foresty pine note in the middle of its transition which when married to a spicy-pepper note conjures a distinctive peppery-pine-foresty aroma which to this day conjures an element of British Raj plundering through the Himalayas. Despite a simple structure with an almost barren heart notes phase and only musk to support the pine-pepper accord, BB somehow manager to showcase more muscle than the typical EDC of the 1900s.

    Distinctive, aloof, randy, a simpleton but learned though Prince Charles might be, these are all the words I can also use to describe BB. Oriental/Chypre/heavy-frag pigs may dismiss BB as yet another simple "citrus frag", but everyone else should atleast give this conservative yet somewhat edgy juice a spritz...

    Rating: 8.25/10.0

    18th July, 2010.

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    Cologne Sologne by Parfums de Nicolaï

    Notes: Bergamot, Lemon verbena, Grapefruit, Tunisian neroli, Rosemary, Myrtle, Sandalwood

    Cologne Sologne (CS) is another traditional but successful stop on my EDC/Cologne style tour. The Parfums de Nicolai site promotes CS as the most expensive fragrance in the PdN line. No doubt that is probably mostly due to the Tunisian neroli in the formula and not the bottle (looking at you here, Guerlain ...).

    CS opens with a bright citrus melange of lemon verbena and bergamot, before a plush, light yet ever present cloud of tangy, floral neroli comes forth. Some very light herbs in the form of sweet-herbal rosemary and a very tiny drop of camphorous/wintergreenish myrtle lend a teeny bit of contrast to the citrus-neroli accord. A couple of hours later a soft, slightly sweet sandalwood base materializes and cushions this pleasant splash-on experience.

    CS smells good, does nothing out of the ordinary, showcases a good neroli note, and is reasonably priced. I feel that its citrus top heavy notes lack the fireworks of something like Neroli Sauvage, and there are other fragrances to look at if you want a more forceful neroli/orange blossom accord. In structure I find it similar to Nina Ricci's Signoricci (new formulation) due to the lemon top although that fragrance is louder and woodier (due to copious amounts of petitgrain and woods). Nevertheless Cologne Sologne is a solid and safe offering if you want a cologne fragrance from the one Guerlain family member still active in the business..

    Rating: 8.0/10.0

    12nd July, 2010.

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    Neroli by Czech & Speake

    Notes: Bitter orange, orange flower, neroli, ylang ylang

    Czech & Speake's Neroli is an interesting one. I don't mean that it's an interesting or unique composition, just that its interesting compared to other neroli fragrances in that it relies mostly on the multi-layered and complex scent profile of the various orange flower/neroli oils to create a "perfume". "Deceptively complex" is the term I believe.

    For sure the ingredients are high quality - they have to be, in this case. The opening blast of bitter orange is tangy, bitter and orangey in all the right ways, the orange flower water with its light and distilled citrus floral goodness is present right afterwards before the fragrance opens to a moderately heady neroli absolute which is suitably spicy/floral/citrusy without being overbearing. Neroli is suitably refreshing to wear but the decision to end on a mediocre grade ylang ylang oil is puzzling. The ylang ylang used here has a very 'mass market' feel in that it has a sweetish floral character with a synthetic buzzy-woody note. Seeing that this weirdly cost cutting base material is what you will be smelling for the remaining 65% of the fragrance, I don't understand why the C&S perfumers didn't choose to just end matters after the neroli flashdance expired. I prefer no base to a bad base, and this pesky ylang ylang feels like an unwelcome distant relative at a close knit family reunion of the bitter orange tree.

    From a first half that smells great but feels like it required little engineering on the perfumers part, to the base which feels like a strange/bad engineering decision, Neroli leaves me ambivalent. There are many other fragrances on the market which provide a distinct twist on the neroli theme, so get Neroli only if you want a good quality neroli fragrance from high end market bathroom specialists from Ol' Blighty only.

    Rating: 7.5/10.0

    14th June, 2010.

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    Nina (new) by Nina Ricci

    Previously a supposedly great green-mossy classic, Nina (2006) is resurrected as a demure floral fruity/gourmand stripped off its greatness by Olivier Cresp and Jacques Cavallier. That it once again takes two great perfumers to pump out a decent but hardly unique girl juice for the young 'uns market is astounding ... Cavallier could have scribbled this formula in his sleep with Cresp laying on the couch making small talk.

    The lemon and lime top notes are pleasant enough, leading to the supposed distinctive character of Nina.. a gourmand slush of apple-infused vanilla and soft florals, with the basenotes bringing about a cedary more vanilla infused candy-floss fun. It smells decent if unspectacular...the apple note isn't as well done as in Creed's Spring Flower, and the whole apple-toffee-woods thing is more alluring in DKNY's Red Delicious Men. Plus this overload of vanilla in recent fruity-florals is now getting on my nerves (cue the recent Dior vanilla hacks). Somebody out there please limit the dose of vanilla in such fragrances before we all suffer death by vanilla. Other than all these gripes, Nina should make a decent gift for the high school crowd and the bottle is sure to be a crowd pleaser.

    Rating: 6.5/10.0

    26th May, 2010.

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    My Voyage by Nautica


    My Voyage is a floral-aquatic for women which does the tried-and-tested and never rises above mediocrity. An alcohol-laden blast of lime and bitter orange greets you when you splash it on - more bitter orange than sweet zesty lime, the citrus combo is far from photorealistic but does its job in linking up with an aquatic floral accord in the heart notes. The salty slightly screechy aquatic note is thankfully relegated to the background while a floral landscape of lots of light tea-floral like peony, a little muguet and little to no lotus persist till the base of amber and musk takeover and complete this generic performance.

    My Voyage knows its limits...it knows its displaying a worn out formula with generic if not ghastly materials, and consequently it keeps the volume low...the notes whisper instead of blasting out and the general light nature of the fragrance ensures that the fragrance may bore you but wont annoy you. There are too many quality aquatics and fruity-florals out there that are more worthy of your $$ but if you wind up with a bottle of this either spray it on when you have nothing else to do or just file it under the "Generic", "Been there done that", "Cash-in", "Don't care" or "Not going on MY voyage" labels..

    Rating: 5.5/10.0

    16th May, 2010.

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    Eau de Guerlain by Guerlain


    Eau de Guerlain (EdG) is the youngest of the Guerlain Eaux's, constructed in 1974 by JP-Guerlain. While the earlier Eauxs were simpler refreshing citrus formulae with little to no long tail, EdG while a competent citrus-aromatic/chypre has a distinctive 70s herb-laden vibe about it.

    The top notes have a clear dominant lemon note but almost immediately the "star" that makes EdG standout from various cologne formulas makes an appearance...its the herb known for cleaning the urinary system: the caraway. Here though its utilized for nasal pleasure, its characteristic sweet-spicy-herbal aroma made uplifting by good use of mint and a light infusion of jasmine and lavender to soften the herbal middle notes show. While EdG has a generally light feel, it can last for a good 6-7 hours...this is due to moss and musk in the base, with the tingly mossy aroma lasting long after the lemon shine and homeopathic carraway have faded away.

    EdG is made with quality materials, and while its the young un of the Eaux family, its the one with the most retro feel. A spicy-sweet herbal-lemon aroma that wouldn't be out of place amongst the staff of the Nixon administration or on the set of Grease. The newer generation may be turned off by the strong herbal-carraway component and I prefer the clearer focus on quality citrus notes of the Eauxs from the 1800s. What was old is now new again.

    Rating: 8.25/10.0

    15th May, 2010.

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    Eau du Coq by Guerlain

    Notes:
    Top: Orange, Bergamot, Neroli, Lemon
    Middle: Patchouli, Lavender, Jasmine
    Base: Oakmoss, Sandalwood

    Part of the very fine Guerlain Eaux line, Eau de Coq is Aime Guerlains homage to the EDC type of refreshing/light fragrances. Classified as a citrus aromatic, its notes structure is a classic chypre formula, albeit rendered through an EDC prism. Imagine all the typical chypre ingredients screened through a a heavy EDC filter - lighter and faint, refreshing enough to bath in. Opening with a quality citrus smorgasboard which features a sharp neroli, tart lemon and a full bodied bergamot, Coq delights and then ushers the senses to a watered down yet sweet-floral jasmin heart with a muted lavender background. At this point the impression is of a pleasant citrus-floral accord, sharp-tart citrus softened with a floral note. I don't detect anything animalic throughout the duration of Coq...there is a very tinny earthy note of sorts which I assume is the patchouli, but this sheer citrus-floral accord persists for a couple of hours before finishing to an ephemeral oakmoss/woods drydown. If may take some effort to discern the coherent 3-tier chypre structure of this fragrance, but it is there. Refreshing and high quality, I understand the royalty of the past used to bath in it - unfortunately Guerlain has decided to maintain that false sense of exclusivity by keeping this out of the common mans reach by artificially restricting its distribution. Oh ye common soldier, ye can have my Shalimar but don't dare touch my Coq..

    Rating: 8.75/10.0

    8th May, 2010.

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    Five O'Clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Notes: bergamot, candied ginger, honey, lapsoung tea accord, pepper, dark cocoa, meltingly soft cookie, gingerbread, patchouli, vetiver.

    Luten's 5Oclock Au Gingembre is a warm oriental gourmand inspired by the Old World five o'clock tea ritural in Ol' Blighty. Not only does it succeed in presenting an amalgam of notes reminiscent of ingredients used in afternoon tea, its also one of the best balanced Lutens orientals, void of unabashed, loud sickeningly sweet oriental basenotes.

    5Oclock opens with a clear bergamot and lemon combo, followed by 'candied' ginger i.e., a spicy ginger note rounded by smooth sweetness. The heart notes bring about one of the most controlled rendering of a lapsong black tea note in perfect harmony with a honey note. At this point its apt to compare it to L'Artisans groundbreaking Tea for Two. T42 is strange in that it features an overly rich and powerful black tea note shrouded by that typical watery L'artisan sea of notes..its one of the few l'artisans which feels rich yet watery at the same times. By comparison, 5Oclock's black tea note is more cohesive, solid and overall just more in tune with its complementary notes. Back to 5Oclock...the familiar Lutens rich oriental smorgasbord of sweet and spicy base makes and appearance in the basenotes, but here its in its most well behaved guise. Restrained by a touch of cocoa and earthy patchouli, this is a Lutens syrup presentation I can enjoy without having my senses shattered ala Arabie or Daim Blond.

    5OClock is well balanced, made with good materials, and highlights the black tea note better than most competing niche frags. Tea for Two may have made the most waves as it was the progenitor of the black tea note, and some oriental maniacs may find the Lutens base a bit too restrained, but to me 5Oclock is one of the most wearable and expertly put together Lutens oriental juices in quite a while. Its comforting and rich, and this is an oriental composition I can wear (and it doesn't wear me) at 5 oclock or at midnight in bed.

    Rating:8.25/10.0

    17th April, 2010.

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    Blu by Bulgari

    Notes:
    Top: Bergamot, Ginger
    Middle: Wisteria, Acacia
    Base: Vanilla, Flax flower, Musk

    A floral woody musk, Blu is one of the few instances where the feminine original is less forceful and rich than its masculine counterpart. Sure, perfumer Morillas still makes use of a decent ginger note to give it bite...but the ginger is less brash than in Blu homme, and is surrounded by more delicate cohorts such as petite acacia and wisteria notes, creating a light powdery floral accord with a two-toothed bite of raspy ginger to make it distinctive. The base is vanilla and musk rendered the Bulgari way, i.e. L.I.T.E. light.

    Blu is basically a ginger fragrance surrounded by a floral landscape..a ginger study by Morillas, a feminine portrait of this aggressive note, and a success because it is easy to wear. Me? I prefer the no-holds-barred rich tobacco-ginger-doughbread aroma of Blu homme, but I can understand why it could be too much for some. Blu will be less divisive and more wearable for men and women alike. But me likes some Raaawrrr.

    Rating: 7.25/10.0

    14th March, 2010.

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    Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford

    Notes:
    Top: Orange flower, grapefruit, aromatic sage
    Middle: Orris, nutmeg, and pimiento
    Base: Oakmoss, golden amber woods

    Recovering from the inane mediocrity of Tom Ford for men, I was pleasantly surprised to find Grey Vetiver to be a more than competent rendition of a common perfume note: that most primal of ingredient from Mother Earth, El Vetivero!

    A masculine-woods fragrance, Grey Vetiver's promo material claims that its vetiver note is the result of a revolutionary extraction method (shades of Frederic Malle hype anyone?) but the end result doesn't exhibit any sort of masterful revolutionary magic. No matter, its still good enough. The pairing of a sharp grapefruit, juicy orange flower and herbal aromatic sage notes results in a juicy-citrus burst and sets the stage for a spicy-sharp yet fuzzy woody green-ish vetiver accord which thankfully avoids any Swamp Thing armpits overtones. The vetiver note exhibits that characteristic green and earthy aroma, yet is awashed in spices such as pimento and nutmeg and some generic woods (iso E Super?) to give it a more full bodied feel. The fake oakmoss at the end doesn't do much, but this buff vetiver accord does fine to end the show on a high note by itself.

    GV fits nicely between Malle' Vetiver Extraordinaire and Creed's Original Vetiver. The spiced-woods vetiver note is somewhat similar to whats found in VE but is less concentrated and clear in its quality. Compared to green green green OV, the vetiver note in GV is more earthy and less green/sweet. Compared to the generic Tom Ford for men, GV is an altogether superior fragrance and deserves to be the face of the Tom Ford mainstream line. Mr. Tom Ford, don't let this "...precious, pale juice.." disintegrate under bright Sephora display lights stacked all the way back in the corner..

    Rating: 8.25/10.0

    11th February, 2010.

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    Oxford & Cambridge by Czech & Speake

    Designed to be evocative of the English countryside, Oxford & Cambridge (OC) is a definite success. Having tried nearly all the big name and obscure lavender dominant fragrance, I find OC to be among the very best - a fleshed out and expansive lavender fragrance, with a rich lavender heart surrounded by a cast of concrete notes. No simplistic lavender water cop out here folks, this is a proper lavender fragrance.

    There's a smell and feel of density in the OC and it permeates from the very beginning. Minty peppermint and bergamot provide an inviting opening, with the mint devoid of any screeching menthol sharp edges. A few minutes later OC blossoms into a rich heart of one of the finest lavender oils on the planet...the star here is English lavender, with its low camphor content and distinctive sweet/herbal aroma providing a distinct sweet and herbal lavender accord which has a unique 'damp' feel sort of like the english countryside after scattered showers. Rosemary accentuates the herbal aspects of the accord but none of the starring notes feels out of place or proportion - the blending is superb and the fragrance moves slowly but assuredly towards the drydown. The kicker comes in the base .. the damp, full-bodied lavender accord lands on a base of (real) earthy and woody oakmoss providing a fitting end to a superbly realized experience of the english countryside in a bottle.

    If you are looking for a complex lavender fragrance, the OC needs to be at the top your list. Its one of the very few lavender dominant fragrance which features a large quantity of top grade english lavender absolute. The materials used are top notch, the fragrance is coherently put together and alongside Creeds Royal Scottish Lavender, its the only one I use on a regular basis. This is no 'put-good-quality-lavender-oil-in-a-bottle-and-sell' 5 star simplistic effort - in OC the perfumer J. Stephens has concocted a lavender experience of real joy.

    Rating: 9.25/10.0

    14th December, 2009.

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    Tom Ford for Men by Tom Ford

    Notes:
    Top: Mediterranean Hesperidic Notes, Lemon Leaf Oil, Basil, Mandarin Zest
    Middle: Violet Leaves, Ginger, Grapefruit Flower Morocco, Tobacco Leaves
    Base: Oakmoss, Vetiver Mist, Golden Amber, Leatherwood, Cypriol

    Tom Ford Men (TFM) is a Classical Woods fragrance...and Tom Ford's cash-cow preying on the unsuspecting casual crowd. Displaying none of the unique, daring streak that Mr. Ford brought to YSL and Gucci in the late 1990s and 2000s, or with his recent releases such as Black Orchid and others, TFM is really for men...men who don't usually wear fragrances.

    You could see the blueprint for TFM a mile away ... top load the fragrance with an attractive citrus accord composed of good quality lemon leaf oil which displays the tangy aspects quite nicely, and wrap it in juicy mandarin oil with a zesty zest. Let this attractive citrus burst dissipate over time into a light green 'generic man' violet leaf note, and then insert a 'generic woods' frame on which to hang this (money) sucker. Yes, ignore all the fancy schmancy notes listing such as Oakmoss, Cypriol(nagarmutha...I have used this oil and there isn't any of its distinctive earthy odour in TFM), or Leatherwood...you aren't going to get any of that here, its all going to be one 'generic woods' accord which you have probably smelled before in your forced trips to Macy's by your significant other.

    The most interesting thing about TFM are the phallic references in the ad. You may notice that the least interesting Tom Ford has the most catchy ad copy. Commercialism at its best.

    Rating: 5.25/10.0

    11th December, 2009.

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    D&G Le Bateleur 1 by Dolce & Gabbana

    Notes:
    Top: Cardamom, Juniper berry, Alcohol
    Middle: Coriander, Aquatic accord
    Base: Olibanum, Vetiver, Cedarwood

    1 Le Bateleur is for "an accomplished mediterranean Seducer". I like the specific ethnic reference in the promo material, as if that is the reason why spicy notes were added to this woody-aquatic **roll eyes**. The last of the D&G Anthology fragrances in my stash, the finale is anti-climatic... 1 is a by the numbers spicy-woods fragrance with an aquatic heart, a theme made popular 5-7 years ago. Although the execution is smoother than in other designer trash, its disappointing that the aquatic theme wasn't explored in a more daring manner.

    1 bursts forth with a whole lot of alcohol with extremely watered down warmth of cardamom and a juniper berry molecule (yes, I added "alcohol" in the pyramid). A smooth and spicy coriander note with a well complemented aquatic accord blossoms in the heart notes .. more coriander than aquatic, a positive for people not big fans of aquatics in general. A couple of hours later, its time to touch base...there's barely any incense, with light vetiver and generic woods the only elements present to show you the door.

    1 is extremely uninspiring and watery....but its also one of the few fragrances that does the spicy-aquatic theme well. Some cheaper alternatives such as Escada Moon Sparkle For Men exist on the market, but 1 might be a "classier" more discreet alternative. With the plethora of this type of fragrances on the market, don't expect a lot of seduction ....most women will have a "been there, done him" syndrome if you try to score some points being the 1.

    Rating: 5.75/10.0

    22nd November, 2009.

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    D&G L'Imperatrice 3 by Dolce & Gabbana

    Notes:
    Top: Rhubarb, Kiwi accord, Red currant
    Middle: Pink cyclamen, Watermelon, Jasmine
    Base: Musk, Sandalwood, Grapefruit

    Le Imperatrice 3 is for a heroine, a movie star.....a Disney channel star more like it, considering the flowing-to-the-brim fruitiness stuffed in the bottle.

    3 opens with rich fruity kiwis whose sweetness amps up considerably within seconds of application. The kiwi note, while not overly synthetic and is pleasant at times, is like an uncontrolled madman..the sweetness scream over any potentially interesting angle brought to the opening by the tart rhubarb and red currant. Light melon notes in the heart are flattened by sweet synthetic jasmine which creates a linear block-style fragrance structure...and again a sweet musky basenote continues the rigid structure with some respite thankfully at the very end where an unusually placed grapefruit note goes against the grain and holds back the tide of sweet fruity nectar.

    3 is a very linear fruity floral with a pleasant but poorly controlled kiwi note and little to no variety in evolution. It can act like a big boy bully in the teen-demographic fruity floral market mainly because the fruity florals making the rounds in that domain are so obviously synthetic and annoying, but anyone looking for a recent fruity-floral worthy of putting on their skin should either consider Creeds luscious woody greengage-plum based Acqua Fiorentina or even D&Gs own 18 La Lune with its delicious apple note nestled amongst lily and soft florals. 3!!....yerrrrrrrr out !!!

    Rating: 5.75/10.0


    19th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 20th November, 2009.)

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    D&G L'Amoureaux 6 by Dolce & Gabbana

    Notes:
    Top: Bergamot, Pink pepper, Juniper berry
    Middle: Cardamom, Birch leaf
    Base: Musks and Woods.

    6 L'Amoureaux is for 'The Charmer. ...this charmer is all about intensity'. Quite appropriate really because the person who wears 6 would have to rely on all of their charms to win over their object of affection because this placid, barely-there fragrance ain't gonna help anyone score any charm points.

    Disclaimer: I tested an entire 5ml decant of 6 for this review. And I still only have a smidgen of an idea of what the
    core accords of this juice are. It opens with the mostly fleeting top notes in history...a juniper berry spark with a
    thin citrus background before the spicy-woods heart comes forth. The middle accord is mainly warm cardamom and a peppery-leathery- birch leaf wood smell. The cardamom-birch leaf balance is well done, but extremely watered down. A few minutes later the pleasant but generic base of musk and woods materializes and goes on for the next 3 hours in silent fashion. Thats all folks.

    6's formula is so watered down that even the L'Artisan accountants would go "Oh COME ON!! Pour atleast half a teaspoon more of *that* ingredient". 6's formula is probably "Water + a drop of every ingredient listed in the pyramid". 6 makes Old Spice splash smell like a full blown EDP. 6 is the cologne version of the already watery Cartier Declaration. Ok, I will stop with the 6 puns now although I only did 4. There's no way I can recommend this 'concept' juice...it needs serious fleshing out and more $$$. Now I understand why D&G chose the dashing Noah Mills as the face of this juice...nice misdirection D&G folks..

    Rating: 4.00/10.00

    14th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 20th December, 2009.)

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    D&G La Roue de la Fortune 10 by Dolce & Gabbana


    Notes:
    Top: Pink pepper, Pineapple, Tuberose
    Middle: Gardenia, Jasmine, Vanilla
    Base: Orris, Benzoin, Patchouli

    La Roue de la Fortune 10 ("The Wheel of Fortune") is a chypre-floral from the D&G Anthology series with the tag-line "for the adventurous" type, or someone who takes risks (probably in the context of Tarot games in this case). Considering the latest D&G releases, Fortune by comparison certainly comes off as quite a bit more adventurous in its structure and overall feel.

    Fortune opens with a nice juicy pineapple note with floral accents. The opening lasts all but 30 seconds before Fortune expands into a grand vanilla-floral heart. Its mostly composed of two dominant notes of jasmine and vanilla and the balance can be a bit off depending on how it works on your skin. At times I smelled a bit too much vanilla, but in cooler temperatures the sweetish-floral accord was flying off my skin in perfect harmony. So far so good, but its still perhaps not too far from a yawn or a case of been there done that...but wait an hour and Fortune metamorphosizes into a custard-like aroma before settling on a light earthy base with an alluring smoky benzoin note. Smoky benzoin...gasp! could it be that D&G used a decent sized budget on a base containing good quality Sumatra benzoin?? I can't say for sure but its been a while since I have encountered a designer fragrance which featured a more impressive and coherently put together base instead of blowing the budget on fleeting yet attractive top notes.

    Fortune surprised me with its consistent performance throughout its duration. Juicy pineapple top, dense floral-vanilla heart, and a surprising smoky-patchouli-benzoin base. Sure, its not a patchouli dynamo like the slick Coromandel, or the grand Borneo, nor is it a classic chypre etched in fragrance history like Mitsouko. But it can act as a stepping stone towards those classics for Sephora shoppers looking for some quality this shopping season. D&G should get rewarded because they took a little chance with this one.

    Rating: 8.0/10.0

    13rd November, 2009.

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    D&G La Lune 18 by Dolce & Gabbana

    Notes:
    Top: Apple, Bergamot
    Middle: Rose, Tuberose
    Base: Orris, Sandalwood, Leather, Musk

    18 La Lune ("The Moon") is from the recently launched D&G Anthology collection, a me-too "niche" line from D&G in Chanel Les Exclusif like bottles. Recently nearly every perfume house has been infected with the niche H1N1 virus and its been hard to keep track of the number of launches but the Anthology is available from my local Sephora so I had a dib. German model Claudia Schiffer is the muse, and La Lune is for the "the Dreamer" - fresh, sensual, dazzling yet keeping her secrets with her ethereal beauty. La Lune doesn't have the impact of a Claudia Schiffer, but the end result is actually one of the better new fruity florals on the markets.

    Despite the presence of heavy hitting notes, La Lune is a sheer and light fragrance. It opens with a burst of one of the best rendered apple notes in the designer realm, expertly juxtaposed against a veil of sweet florals. This apple/citrus + florals melding act is La Lune's greatest success; the materials are good, and there are no crass, loud, synthetic accords burning nasal linings. Infact, this first half act reminds me a lot of Creeds Spring Flower which opens with a brilliant apple note that links up with a smorgasbord of florals except that La Lunes' materials aren't as rich or dense. After this inviting apple-floral display, an aquatic lily note makes its presence felt around the edges...its not quite at the forefront but you can smell aquatic spikes here and there. The base flatters to deceive...La Lune had the potential to finish off things with a grand leather and iris finish but instead takes a cheap accountants way out by throwing out a tiny musky-amber base with a barely there plastic leather note. To its credit, despite its ethereal nature La Lune lasts a good 7-8 hours.

    Despite an anti-climactic base, I would rate La Lune as one of the better recent fruity florals. Its apple-florals balancing act is good enough to entice me to further explore this line. La Lune is jovial, light-hearted, fun, a bit stoic, not terribly cerebral but a blast to have around for some short lived fun. Quite a bit like Claudia Schiffer actually.

    Rating: 7.25/10.0

    8th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 11th November, 2009.)

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