Perfume Reviews

Reviews by calnadur

Total Reviews: 60

Noontide Petals by Tauer

Maybe it's also because I overapplied this on my skin, but the opening is just unbearable. Not sure if it's the aldehydes or something else, but the first few minutes of this scent smell like something very very synthetic, almost medicinal.

When the fragrance transitions into its heart and base notes, I cant help thinking that this smells pretty much like Incense Rose, which I like, but then I'm just left wondering: what's the point of creating a new fragrance, when all it does is mimick a previous one, to actually end up being quite worse?

I would avoid this one.
05th May, 2013

Lonestar Memories by Tauer

The geranium at the opening lasts really a matter of seconds, after which this fragrance settles in a leather accord that I find surprisingly pleasant, not being a fan of leather myself. I couldnt help but think of Fahrenheit when I first tried Lonestar Memories. And what I like about this Tauer fragrance is precisely the core of this scent, dominated by the smoky element of the leather accord. Towards the end however, this smokiness fades or rather mellows into a much sweeter leather, almost milky (thankfully not oily though) in its quality.

All considered, a pretty interesting fragrance, not to be discarded.
30th April, 2013

Incense Rosé by Tauer

I was so so close to giving at last a fully positive review of a Tauer fragrance...

The opening is surprisingly strong, almost boozy, for some reason it even reminded me of Ambre Russe. As that clouds dissipates, it makes way for a wonderfully velvet like, ammaliating incense. Definitely one of the best incenses I've ever tried.

The only problem seems to be at the very end, when a light spicy/ambery mixture (similar to what you can smell in Orange Star or Eau d'Epices for that matter) is the very last trail left by the scent on the skin. Not necessarily unpleasant, this ending seems however slightly at odds with the smoother and softer core of this scent, which is what I like the most.
29th April, 2013 (last edited: 01st May, 2013)
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Incense Extrême by Tauer

I like incense and this is for sure a very genuine incense scent. What's extreme about this is its simplicity, rather than its power and projection, which are just about average. Very still, to be perfect this would need that little something to make it a bit more vibrant.

But by all means, a good and easy to wear fragrance.
24th April, 2013

Nuit de Tubéreuse by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The note pyramid shown here looks pretty crowded but to me this smells, very simply, surprise tuberose!

And it is not that obvious for a fragrance to deliver exactly what its name announces!

Whether one likes tuberose or not is another matter, but I guess one has to respect that this is a pretty genuine scent.

Now tuberose is not necessarily my favorite note, but by no means do I despise it. Fair.
22nd April, 2013

Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur


No need to add to the tens of positive reviews already posted here..

This is simply one of the best, if not the best woodsy scent I've ever come across..

Truly fascinating.
16th April, 2013

L'Eau d'Ambre by L'Artisan Parfumeur

As others have already pointed out, this amber does not have much in common with the more powerful likes of Ambre Sultan, Ambre Russe, etc.. Not nearly as aggressive and flaring, this is a very soft amber, smoothened by abundant, if not overriding, doses of vanilla and tempered by something cooler, which based on the noted listed here I guess is geranium, though to me it almost smells minty at the outset.

A gentle and appeasing interpretation of amber. Not revolutionary, but hey, not everyone's born to be a superstar.
16th April, 2013

Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I hate to have to give this one a thumbs down, but one cannot call themselves Al Oudh and then smell like something else entirely.

What I get out of it is cumin all the way..not just the first whiffs, this allegedly 'oud' scent is dominated by cumin for hours and hours, until the very end when this fades into a very very bland sweetness.

Now, I personally dont find cumin unpleasant nor I think that it evokes anything offensive, however the extent to which it is used, or rather abused, in this fragrance is questionable to say the least.

13th April, 2013

Mûre et Musc Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I dont see it mentioned here but the first and strongest note i get out of this is very simple and straight citrus, which I'm admittedly never a big fan of. When that fades, which it does only after awhile (..when you want that note to vanish quickly, it actually disappoints by staying noticeable for quite some time..) what stays on my skin is only some very very generic soapy sweetish girlish something, which is just not very pleasant...

Sorry but this is really not for me, nor would i like to smell it on anybody else around me..
08th April, 2013

Carillon Pour Un Ange by Tauer

I tend not to like florals too much, but I like this lily of the valley scent, in particular its simplicity, which I'm sure was not easily attained by the way.

Some "darker" notes that I cannot distinguish also linger in the background, however this is a fragrance that retains a very clear identity throughout its life, and I appreciate that.
07th April, 2013

Orange Star by Tauer

I cant fully make up my mind about this one.

I like the fact that, after an initial and somewhat confused outburst of fruity/green flavors, in the body of this scent the orange and citrusy notes in general are smoothened by a softer layer of vanilla and the likes.. The sweetness that remains uncontrasted towards the end however tends to bear too faint a resemblance to the picture I had drawn in my mind, inspired by such a bold label as Orange Star.

Worth a try still.
06th April, 2013

Vetiver Dance by Tauer

I am not a huge vetiver lover, however I have to give credit to Tauer for creating one vetiver fragrance that I find quite interesting. Its salty first, then spicy and almost leathery character sets it apart from the vast majority of other cooler, more herbal vetiver based scents available on most shelves today. Only the very final stage of its drydown reminds me of a multitude of contemporary masculine mainstream colognes, but the warmth and complexity evoked by most of this creation's steps at least save this vetiver from anonymity.
03rd April, 2013

Rêverie au Jardin by Tauer


This is how my nose reacts when I try Reverie au Jardin.

I dont like the levander/laundry detergent opening at all, and what follows is quite simply a sweetish/floral mess...

The first Tauer I try, and I didnt expect much from this one to be honest, is a no no for shouldnt be difficult for the other fragrances from the house to be better than this..I hope so at least..
01st April, 2013
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Eau de Gentiane Blanche by Hermès

Uhm...I must say that expectations were not particularly high for this one, so maybe that's why I am somehow positively surprised. What's most admirable in my view about Eau de Gentiane Blanche is how it walks the very thin line of discretion without falling in the realm of impalpability..

Extremely simple yet somehow sophisticated, a white (as the name suggests) more than green herbal, astringent but not one bit citrusy. A rather linear, uncompromising, respectable fragrance, but I dont think its dignified profile would have been jeopardized by a little more projection and longevity.
26th March, 2013

Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Okay you cant deny Tea for Two a positive review, very simply put, it is a good fragrance.

Only a couple of remarks though:

1. I wish the initial smokey/tea notes would last a little longer before settling in the however beautiful and elegantly sweet drydown

2. What's in a name? When you read "Tea for Two" you naturally tend to focus on "Tea", and expect that to be the dominant character of the scent, to then possibly get disappointed if you dont find as much tea in the scent as you'd imagined. However the second part of the name here is just as important; what I guess "for Two" stands for in this case is an encouragement to share this intimate and delicate pleasure with a close partner; possibly also because the scent doesnt "radiate" hugely, so being closer than an arm's length does help appreciate this adorable little pearl.
24th March, 2013 (last edited: 03rd April, 2013)

Traversée du Bosphore by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I'm in love with this.

To be honest, other than vanilla, I dont recognize any of the notes listed here. To me, what this smells like is very simple: freshly baked amaretti, obviously i'm talking about the pastry, not the liquor. Unmistakably gourmand, romantic and poetic. Heart warming (and a loyal companion during cold and snowy winters). A rarity, and a real pleasure to wear.
22nd March, 2013

Batucada by L'Artisan Parfumeur

uhm..when I first tried this in one of L'Artisan's boutiques in Paris, just after it was released, I was positively impressed by the non boring freshness of its initial whiffs.

However after properly testing it on skin more recently, I winded up being largely disappointed. That interesting and slightly exotic initial puff fades away pretty quickly to make way for a middle stage of warmer, almost ambery notes. While the very last moments of this scent's life on my skin were only vaguely vanilla sweet.

Now, none of those single phases and components are offensive or unpleasant taken separately (quite the opposite, i was intrigued by the fruity freshness, i am a fan of amber and thoroughly enjoy vanilla) however none of them was convincing enough to make a lasting impression (the poor longevity of the fragrance doesnt help..).

So the feeling you're left with after all is that of a rather un-characterized, only tentative, experience. Not very compelling.
22nd March, 2013

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

This is a very very interesting scent.

The burst of peony at the opening is a strong one. But mind you, though this starts (and will finish) essentially as a floral, there's so much more to this fragrance.

It evolves in a most intriguing fashion, evoking the maroquinerie and the incences you can smell in a souk in Marrakech (I havent been to Bhutan yet so do not dare comment on that), amidst a blend of spicy whiffs. Then the leather and spices leave the stage discreetly, to let a rather smoky/sweet incense subtly seduce you. Finally, and here's the only facet of this fragrance that I'm not as keen on, it dries down taking back on a rather floral character, again with peony and now apparently some iris too. A tad too sweet a finale for a fragrance that still takes you through a fascinating journey.
13th March, 2013 (last edited: 26th March, 2013)

Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Strong fresh masculine green scent.

This type of combination doesnt normally bode well for a fragrance in my mind. In this case though, the way these attributes are blended in Fou D'Absinthe exudes an interesting type of character, confident yet not arrogant, unswerving but still charming.

Not bad after all.
12th March, 2013

Patchouli Patch by L'Artisan Parfumeur

All the good things about Patchouli Patch have already been said, and I agree with most: this is a somewhat unusual patchouli, much fresher (almost minty at drydown) and more aerial than this warm, dirtish and earthy oil is supposed to be.

It is for sure an elegant fragrance, gentle and soft by design, but I found myself at times wanting a little more from it, more life, something more daring. Still, a very classy and totally enjoyable scent.
11th March, 2013

Méchant Loup by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I didnt apply, I literally poured this on my skin to be able to smell something, to only regret it a little later. Not that this is an overwhelming fragrance, quite the opposite, I could only smell it by sticking my wrist right under my nose..but what I could smell then was some anise, licorice and somewhat leathery mix sticking to my skin like something oily - a feeling that I get from some leathery scents, and not one that I like.
10th March, 2013 (last edited: 22nd March, 2013)

Premier Figuier by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Interesting that this fragrance is flagged as feminine here while it's actually included in the male sample selection offered by the house. And I know we always say that gender for a fragrance is not that relevant really.. but guys, it takes a woman with quite a thick skin to wear this for the first couple of hours when this fig exerts its most intoxicating power..not that a man would be necessarily able to pull this off any better, by the way...After that, I could see how the softer drydown suits a woman better than a man..

Gender discussions aside though, I'm not fully convinced..the opening is just too strong to be worn by anyone in my view..while the finale leaves you wanting more..a better balance, that's what I guess this fragrance is lacking.

Still, the many facets of fig it explores make it an interesting scent, worth giving it a try at least.
28th January, 2013

Equistrius by Parfum d'Empire

For a start, I'm not sure I would define this as unisex, I'd say it is much more feminine..

But that isnt the point..the problem is the quality of the scent itself..

Smells like the iris here just melts down into a rather generic, weak and boring floral..

09th July, 2011

Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire

Leather and incense is what I get out of it.

Personally I like the latter better than the former.

Interesting scent though, and yes, definitely suitable for guys as well as ladies
26th June, 2011

Iskander by Parfum d'Empire

I guess I have a problem with citrusy scents..and Iskander is no exception..

I just find it so common, obvious, uninteresting..

Rather forgettable
24th June, 2011

Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire


This almost leaves me speechless..

Extraordinarily rich and intense

Just gorgeous!
24th June, 2011

Eau de Gloire by Parfum d'Empire

I found the opening quite interesting and promising, so much so that it instantly created in me great expectations for its further evolution and development on my skin: somehow before I even realised it, I found myself waiting and waiting for an explosion, a burst, a surprise that actually never came..

This is one of the problems I have with this fragrance (the other being that at times it made me smell like a rosemary cracker and smelling that edible is not always something I enjoy): it seems somehow unfinished, incomplete..

In other words, interesting but not convincing..
20th June, 2011

Fougère Bengale by Parfum d'Empire

I'm afraid I dont get any of the exciting notes promised by the house..

I can clearly and distinctively smell something else here, though, that is licorice.

Whch, after a little while, becomes quite nauseating.. I cant really say I enjoyed this..
19th June, 2011

Aziyadé by Parfum d'Empire

Carob is by far the dominant note here, and it's not one for the faint-hearted.

Not necessarily my scene but I appreciate its rather distinctive and powerful character.
17th June, 2011

Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum d'Empire

Pretty weak fruity/floral, quite disappointing actually as I was really looking forward to trying this osmanthus..

Way too faint for me, with very poor projection, sillage and longevity..

Unremarkable, unfortunately..
16th June, 2011