Perfume Reviews

Reviews by evinick

Total Reviews: 61

Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne by Helmut Lang

Powdery, floral, musky with a rather synthetic lavender glow. Not really close to the classic eau de cologne backbone (no citrus or herb notes besides the lavender), however it is very well blended and has good projection. A genderless, classy and most of all inoffensive morning/office scent.
09th February, 2015

Sticky Leather Sky by Pell Wall Perfumes

I feel like driving my brand new all leather XKR convertible Jaguar under the early morning Athens sky while the cold dawn fills my nostrils with fresh air.
Dry, fresh, almost sparkling leather for serious leather fans. Excellent!
13th January, 2015

Pardon by Nasomatto

Well made, quality stuff but unoriginal. Tightly structured, lends elements both from Guerlain's L' Instant (gourmet cocoa-chocolate note and hints of patchouli) and M7 (the oud note is almost identical ) Interesting but quite abstract florals and a nice amber-caramel-patchouli base (similar to Reminiscence's Ambre) sum up to a nice evening gourmand, with good longevity but average projection. Definitely not worth the 100+ Euros of its price.
06th September, 2012
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Eau de Protection / Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange

One of my best ELdO's. Very impressive openning (pepper,ginger, mandarin and blood orange tickle my nose) that creates a rather tart surrounding for the beatiful rose that comes next. A rose that starts young, bright and green and ends up warm, rich and sensual. Absolutely recomended only if you are a lady, over 35 and you love rose centered scents.
11th April, 2011

Eloge du Traitre by Etat Libre d'Orange

EdT is dirty enough to be distinctive and sufficiently polite to be wearable. It is a departure from the safe and boring stereotype of the classic green scents and the beginning of a new era that tries to transform familiar green fresh accords such as this pine and herbs one, into something deeper and darker by setting them over dry earthy, resinous and balsamic backgrounds.
Besides that distant similarity with Yatagan, tiny bits of Paco Rabanne pour homme (oakmoss), Polo Modern Reserve(patchouli and herbs) and even Nobile 1942's Colonia maxima (dry, smoky drydown) can be found here and there in EdT just to give an idea of what to expect and put you in the mood for this. Wonderful.
08th April, 2011

Rien by Etat Libre d'Orange

Civet is one of the most wayward components of a so called "leather accord". Unlike castoreum that is sweet and milder, civet is completely urinous, overpowering, almost impossible to be used undiluted. In Rien I can see the civet behave within a general floral incense background and eventually contribute its treasured animalic properties to the whole composition. A lady's vintage leather jacket still wrapped in its torn nylon bag hanging in the basement's closet, full of dust and the smell of naphthalene all around. To my nose this is nothing but a twisted approach to the Knize ten or even Gomma theme, a nice leather scent minus the powder and the sweetness of those two. Not "easy" to understand it, but I like it.
07th April, 2011

Putain des Palaces by Etat Libre d'Orange

What a lovely violet scent. Spicy floral opening with violet, rose and just a touch of ginger, turmeric and curry notes that soon settle to leave the florals stand alone at the heart and lead at a wonderful powdery base, very close to the skin. The only slutty about it is the "lipstick effect", which to my opinion is much better presented here than in F Malle's Lipstick Rose.
06th April, 2011

Ambre de Cabochard by Grès

To begin, the name is misleading. Although the amber note is widely used (we all know why) and to be more precise, abused in perfumery, the big majority of us, the fragrance fans, have more or less a general idea of how the right amber note smells, evolves and projects. Well, with AdC, we have the case of an amber wannabe scent : a glowing citrus fruity (ginger and pink grapefruit perhaps) and sweet (vanilla, musk), plus a light floral accord, that all together struggle to support a false amber note. To be honest, the first blast is nice (so dont try it on fabric), but 30 minutes later it becomes very synthetic and cheap. Unisex? Dont even think about it! I can barely imagine it on a lady at her 50's. Thumbs down for unappropriate use of the word "amber".
05th April, 2011

Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

Complex, creative and uisex, a proud addition to the ELdO line. Unfortunately (for me) I get the immortelle note from the very beginning to the base, and ever since an overdose I had with Dior's Eau Noire, I kind of hate it, while I'm not sure it marries well with ginger... Not bad but think I'll pass.
04th April, 2011

Cartier de Lune by Cartier

I really dont understand the reasons of CdL's existence... Creativity and innovation are definitely not included in those. Although not stated at the top notes I smell citrus blossoms and a touch of neroli at the opening, and maybe some faint hints of tea at the totally boring floral heart. The soft woody musky base although more soapy than it should be, is probably the best part of CdL. Pointless...
15th March, 2011

Cittá di Kyoto by Santa Maria Novella

Interesting floral iris opening, that dries down quite rapidly into a thin fruity floral with a light touch of powdery woods. Elegant but quite fragile overall, great though as an unoffensive morning scent of a remarkable quality. To me it's rather unfair to compare it with Daim Blond, as this Lutens marvel has so much more of everything that is included in CdK and a whole lot of other things too.
10th March, 2011

Bleu de Chanel Eau de Toilette by Chanel

This is not Bleu but Joke de Chanel. I am trying to find the causes of this ''disaster'' but I can't. Is it lack of inspiration? Is it just an experiment, to find out if the Chanel logo can attract buyers, no matter what the product is? Or maybe is it because they hired the marketing manager of Davidoff or Hugo Boss, and they haven't announced it yet?
Seriously now, Bleu is just another fresh/aquatic with good longevity and extra low projection. The question is what kind of a man is looking for a new aquatic beside my 65 years old uncle. Labdanum, Incense and Jasmine (that are stated at the notes list) at the appropriate dose could probably save the project but they probably decided to totally ommit them. I 'll wait for the Bleu Extreme, or Bleu Epice.
18th September, 2010

Boss Bottled Night by Hugo Boss

Dear perfumer, below I give you a list of characteristics of the scent I want you to make for us. Ahhh! I almost forgot to tell you about its name. It will be something between "Bottled office", "Blue-Black bottle", "Bottled day", "Bottled afternoon" or even "Bottled night". Don't bother anyway...
1. Age Target group 18-98 yrs
2. Unoffensive
3. Clean Woody aromatic, whatever...
4. To be worn from 6.00 AM up to 12.00 PM
5. and last but not least Please DONT be too creative...

Boss Headquarters
16th September, 2010
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31 rue Cambon Eau de Toilette by Chanel

Sitted on the beautiful stools of the exclusive Chanel perfumery boutique at Selfridge's, I began to try all the Exclusifs starting (if I remember well) from the amazing Eau de Cologne. Every single sniff, a different emotion. Joy, purity, charm, warmth, seduction, luxury. And then I smelled 31 RC.Which included almost all the above, in a single sniff. I bought it instantly. I rarely wear it. Only those times I am running out of emotions.
16th September, 2010

Fleur Poudrée de Musc by Les Néréides

Innocent like an angel, light as a feather. Beautiful name for a scent that unfortunately failed to impress me. Quite soapy and more polite than it should seems to faint so rapidly on my skin. Misleading opening with a general and indistinct floral accord that eventually leads to a dull animalic musk. Perhaps a more concentrated version could let me appreciate it in full depth. More on the feminine side and with an upper age limit of 20 years.
29th January, 2010

Brioni by Brioni

I am quite confused with Brioni. I certainly expected much more than an “eau sauvage” type of scent. However if you take into consideration the type of a Brioni customer you have to admit this one goes the right way. Totally unoffensive and brightly fresh from top to base, I can see it only as an elegant morning scent with good longevity but low projection. Starts with a nice and crisp citrus-green accord with a dominating verbena note (Brioni’s best part) to unwrap a more aromatic but still fresh heart with a touch of lavender. Add some clean patchouli and vetiver and you have a pleasant yet unnoticeable base. Beautiful and bold bottle with a wenge wood cap, presented in a leather case is the exact opposite to the original sample I got, which is totally unworthy of the Brioni brand name (just 0,3ml to spray out of a cheap looking paper card). Overall nice but for that price (250 pounds/100ml) I’ ll stick to Eau Sauvage.
28th January, 2010

La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens

La Myrrhe is one of those SL scents, that justify and enforce the idea behind the ‘’Bel Jar’’ marketing policy of the house. Actually it’s the only way to discourage you from wasting precious molecules of the “jus” in the air. Wearable or not (who cares anyway), this is a reference scent made for those few romantics, that can afford to put this wonderful bottle in a glass display and treat it like a museum item. The word “inspired” finds its true meaning in La Myrrhe. A complex and “thick” scent, built around a main note idea, but with a much more interesting and captivating surrounding. Overtaking the top note resemblance to parts of Chanel’s No5 or No22 due to the use of aldehydes, you find a most alluring and warm heart balancing skillfully between bitter, resinous, sweet and floral. A marvelous feast for the mind and the senses. The anise note comes for me much later along with amber and musk for a soft and sensual base. If I had to give it a gender, I would say feminine, but I would be unfair. This gem belongs to everybody. I wouldn’t buy it, but I feel so lucky I had the chance to smell it.
26th January, 2010

Scent 79 for Men by Jil Sander

Perfumery industry nowadays produces masterpieces so sparingly that it’s actually forbidden for someone to have great expectations for a scent just by hearing the name of the perfumer or even the house that puts it in the market. You expect something great and you get a good one instead. Scent79 could have been a pleasant surprise if it was released by Aramis, for example. Buxton and Sander means for me much more than a nice and pleasant smell such as this one, so I ‘m afraid I have to agree with Trebor, I too find it quite uninspired. I have smelled more than thirty of good woody-florals and Scent79 is just another one. Balanced and rounded in a quite boring way, lacks the presence of the element of surprise, an accord or even a note that can make the difference. After two or three days you almost forget you smelled it. Just nice.
25th January, 2010

Cuir Venenum 03 by Parfumerie Generale

I instantly distinguished it (along with Cuir d’Iris and Cadjmere) from the whole PG line, as a very distinctive fragrance. I have the feeling that for the majority of the reviewers the word “Cuir” in it’s name seems to be the greatest problem or even a point of confusion, since it is definitely not a leather oriented scent. I can also add that it is neither poisonous as the latin word “vevenum” implicates. Nevertheless it is wonderful and extremely well made. I would describe it as a composition where hints of dry and slightly bitter leather are cleverly hidden beneath a dominating front row of burnt caramel, abstract fruity notes and musk. I also get this weird black beer note (detectable only up to the middle) which is very nice either you are a beer fan or not. Good lasting power and even better evolution on the skin. Highly recommended and suitable for both genders but I’m afraid not for the leather addicted ones.
21st January, 2010

17/17 Irisss by Xerjoff

Up to the time I tried Irisss, I was 100% sure, there is no possibility for another scent, aside the wonderful Iris Silver Mist, to come closer to the original Iris note. Once again I was wrong. In this business you can never be 100% sure. Having smelled the original raw pure Iris extract, I can now tell that at last Iris SM found an equal rival. Irisss is almost a soliflore. Just add the purest, most rooty and earthy iris smell you can imagine to a perfectly balanced floral, woody and powdery background and you have, along with ISM probably the best Iris scents in the world. Extra bonus comes from the unbelievable for an Iris scent, power and longevity (no wonder that the 3 s’s at the end of it’s name represent the purity and the intensity of the key note as I was told from the SA). However, as with everything truly great in this world, this one as well has a flaw. A really incredible price! My advice : Don’t miss the opportunity to smell it once you find it, but for your wardrobe go for ISM.
20th January, 2010

Comme des Garçons 2 by Comme des Garçons

I can accept that the big majority of the reviewers can't go wrong.
Undoubtedly it is nice, creative, with solid and well bonded stages (floral, spicy, woody), but somehow can't work on me. The cumin note seems to destroy what the florals build at the opening, while I am not really familiar with the ink note, everybody likes. There are times it is too sweet, or too peppery and times that I really like the warm and powdery florals in it. Although I don't favor the feminine or masculine discrimination in the perfume world, I strongly believe this is not for the Garcons. I have tried quite a few fragrances by CdG but I am still looking forward to actually love one. Maybe it's this "shrive to be different" philosophy that makes me suspicious. This is one of their best, though.

20th January, 2010

Rose Muskissime by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Charming and youthful rose scent, loaded with juicy exotic fruit notes, over a powdery musk base. A brilliant example of what a wise and thoughtful use of rose can add to a composition and how the clever addition of fruits can project the light side of the florals and bring an air of freshness. Daywear oriented, perfect for those days you just have to be optimistic. Go for it.
20th January, 2010

Dia Man by Amouage

I just don’t agree with the “value for money” reviewers. A product either is good or bad for me, no matter what its price. And this is a good product. Yes, you can find a cheaper alternative to this but that is not a question for a review to answer. I like this one. Especially the orris root of the heart that merely reminds me of L’ Homme de Coeur. Unlike Gold, this one was created to please both Middle-Eastern and Western men and while Gold is offensive and quite feminine, Dia, is subtle, almost powdery and describes better a male’s priviledge to luxury. Bitter, aromatic opening that leads to a wonderful orris root and pale floral heart. The base is very pleasant, powdery with light leather and patchouli notes, so close to the skin. A gentleman's scent indeed.
07th December, 2009

Gold Man by Amouage

One thing is sure. I don’t want to smell like this, neither to myself nor to the others. I prefer to say that a bold, over exaggerated and rather feminine bouquet of all kinds of flowers, dominates the whole composition with graduated intensity, than to try and separate it into notes and phases, which is quite difficult (at least for my nose). I just can’t imagine the type of man that can inspire a perfumer to create a scent like this...
07th December, 2009

Vetiver des Sables by Montale

A mostly accurate interpretation of the smell of dry aromatic bushes dancing relaxed from the wind and the salty sea breeze of a summer day. Extra dry vetiver surrounded by light metallic herbal notes, resulting into a clean and fresh scent, appropriate mostly for daywear. Maybe a great example of how modern aquatics should smell. Yes, there are some notes it shares with Terre d’ Hermes, but in a lighter version. Wonderful in its own way, but not an easy choice. Worth at least a try.
03rd December, 2009

Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens

Balancing skillfully between woody vetiver and sweet oriental proves to so many other vetiver scents that creativity, in certain circumstances, is a risk you must take. To compose with a dry ingredient such as vetiver, within the strictly oriental boundaries of Lutens house and produce a crowd pleaser, is a challenge indeed. Using a a sensual palette of notes , ranging from sweet and woody to herbal and earthy, this one practically can please almost anybody. I wish only it could maintain this beautiful vetiver note for a little longer before passing to the sweet ambery base. Just great.
01st December, 2009

Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford

I have the feeling that Tom Ford, faces each new perfume as a supplement of his fashion line and not as an independent creation, which is not necessarily bad. This time, I think, the goal was to match his elegant and well tailored morning office suits with a classic and noble, daywear scent. The problem begins with the selection of Vetiver to become the main attraction of the show. Very few Vetiver scents managed to get my attention in the past and this is not one of them. Some things simply can’t go much further and if you mess with them trying to be classic and innovative at the same time, you end up with just another clean and fresh, unoffensive masculine targeting the Eau Sauvage fans . Works fine, but it’s so predictable. I can recall at least a dozen of nice masculines with a sharp citrus opening and a milder woody aromatic heart with good longevity and low projection, just like Grey Vetiver. Tom Ford brand name is just not enough to make pay for it, though I am sure it is for many others.
27th November, 2009

L'Air de Rien by Miller Harris

I am pretty sure that “the air of nothing” can’t smell like that, unless this name was picked in order to shock at the first sniff. For an “air” it’s quite heavy and full of this sweet, vanilla-amber-musk blend, that can equally attract and knock you off. Up to the middle it seemed unable to work on my skin but the drydown is definitely worth the wait. I am not convinced that it can actually evolve into something great, but I have to admit, it rather faints into a pleasant sweet powder, comfortable and unoffensive. Nice on clothes too. Sadly, it never pleased me on sufficient levels to warrant a thumbs up.
11th November, 2009

Idole d'Armani by Giorgio Armani

Balance” is the key word for Idole. Balance between classic and modern, warm and fresh, sensual and playful, formal and casual. In a great art deco bottle, the perfumer managed to enclose the Armani philosophy of balance and create a scent that knows exactly where it’s going and which fan group to target. Artful blending of citrus notes, spices and florals, mixes the classic with the modern to create a sensual and elegant scent, that is warm without being very sweet and fresh enough to be pleasant for daywear. A beautiful jasmine note in the middle overlaps the saffron and gives that ultra feminine character, while clementine, orange and ginger freshen up the whole composition from top to middle notes. Sensual and warm patchouli and woods take over for the base. A future classic.
09th November, 2009

Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens

Sure, it does not belong in the category of mainstream scents, made to please the masses. Unexpectedly melancholic and earthy, interacts only with the bearer, transmitting waves of comfort and warmth. Basic notes of camphor and cocoa, are combined irreproachably from beginning to end, without however to evolve into something different. But is this always necessary? I prefer to get the camphor note as a variation of the classic pipe’s tobacco note, while the cocoa note reminds me of the smell that bitter chocolate leaves on its paper wrapping. The combination of those two elects an interesting and close to the skin patchouli. Unconventional and with his own character, I suppose it will not leave pleasant impressions in the air, it will please however the one that wears it. Pity that does not last a lot.
09th November, 2009