Reviews by evinick

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    evinick
    Greece Greece

    Showing 31 to 59 of 59.
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    Benetroessere Raving by Etro

    Ambiguous Etro. Impressive fresh opening with a mix of exotic fruits and a touch of cinnamon that leads to a rather disappointing warm floral-spicy heart. Too much vanilla and no woods for the base. Overall not bad but quite common and boring.

    27th October, 2009

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    Patchouly by Etro

    Interesting interpretation of a classic oriental scent component from Etro. For the one’s who dislike patchouli, this is a good reason to change their minds. For the fans, maybe a way to find out more about its multidimensional character. Unlike other patchouli scents this one is soft, refined and quite light. After a brief hesperidic opening you discover an earthy, dirty and mysterious heart with the note of semi dried tobacco leaves being more underlined which along with subtle spices and woods create a beautiful yet unusual leather accord. While sweetness is kept at minimum the woody character is more projected especially at the base. Sensual but not complex, oriental but not so rich, an overall well balanced choice for all year round.

    27th October, 2009

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    Nostalgia by Santa Maria Novella

    On one hand it’s a completely synthetic, car equipment oriented scent which manages to impress thanks to an unusual composition. On the other hand, a successful attempt to fit in a 100 ml bottle, a whole bunch of memories, images, feelings and dreams. No matter which hand you pick, no matter how industrial or artificial you find it, you have to admit that Nostalgia is ingenious. Mislead by the romantic and quite feminine title that brought to my mind white flower baskets and light green and citrus notes, I got a huge smoky leather blast at the very first sniff, almost like a black vinyl boot kick in the face. And while recovering from the kick, I realized I had left the room, and I was seated on the front of a 1972 E-type Jaguar, caressing the all new tan leather seats and the handmade steering wheel. Half an hour later, back to reality, I was left with a sweet vanilla and woods heart that fainted rather quickly to a pleasant powdery base. More than a smell it’s a feeling and as that it is magnificent!

    23rd October, 2009 (Last Edited: 12th November, 2009)

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    Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    If you think seriously of beginning a collection of niche perfumes, but you have still not found THE one, that will inspire you in order to continue, I suggest you try Iris Silver Mist. Moreover if you like Iris root note and seek the genuine smell of it, I believe you will have the chance to find it in this magnificent juice. No “make up” applied, no other notes predominating at the background, just pure Iris that goes from rooty, earthy and maybe a little dirty, to deep, musky and powdery. Although it is not a mainstream, from the middle notes and on, it becomes so calm and close to the skin that it is difficult to completely dislike it. Undoubtedly unisex, unoffensive and easy to wear anytime of the day. Just great!

    22nd October, 2009

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    Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile by Acqua di Parma

    I could easily call it «Fiori Nobili”. On one hand, it is so disappointing to expect an Iris based scent, (especially when you have in mind scents like Iris Silver Mist and Dior Homme) and get a sweet, flower oriented instead. On the other hand, when these florals have quality and are beautifully blended with a minimum of spice and vanilla you get a nice fresh daywear feminine scent. Anise and white flower notes are easily detected at the top and the heart with the latter being more underlined. Subtle wood notes are added to compose a soft but not powdery base. No Iris in there but still nice.

    21st October, 2009

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    L'Homme de Coeur by Divine

    It’s so simple. If you like iris note in masculine scents you will love L’homme de Coeur. Otherwise don’t even bother to try it. Clean, sweet, ethereal, powdery iris along with juniper and musk create a noble, non offensive scent that stays really close to the skin. You will never get the feeling that your scent “is wearing you” with this one. I only wish it had a little more longevity, but I am willing to compromise as this is a general Iris defect. Really nice bottle and clever refill system.

    19th October, 2009

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    Sienne L'Hiver by Eau d'Italie

    Unconventional and complex, constantly transforming scent that succeeds more to evoke than to charm in a game of senses and memories. Once you come across the odd but brief (10 min.maximum) opening which is a blend of earthy and edible notes (reminds me of a minestrone soup mix) you get a nice heart of iris and musk. However the best is yet to come. The base is paved with moist soil and wood notes brought directly from the rainy Italian countryside. Not for everyone but still very nice.

    18th October, 2009

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    Gomma by Etro

    Subtle burnt rubber notes mix up beautifully with leather and florals to create a pleasant all day scent. Mid notes very close to Knize Ten (especially the leather ones), but less dry, and more flower oriented (violet). At some point you have the feeling it will evolve into something different and more interesting but it doesn’t. The base is powdery and retains the nice light rubber note to the end. Average longevity. Overall nice but not exciting.

    18th October, 2009

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    Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Blame it on the numerous positive comments ranging from supportive to enthusiastic, I heard and read about Musc Ravageur, but I was so disappointed from the very beginning. I was expecting something more musky and exquisite and I just got a nice sweet scent instead. Perfumers sometimes, in their effort to create scents that stand out and actually make the difference, come up with interesting but strange and misleading blends, and I think this is the case for MR. Strange opening (sorry, no bergamot for me, just a sweet and oily lavender note) that leads to a loud cinnamon spice heart that gets better with time. Not great though. I can see the use of cinnamon as a way to innovate, give power and some longevity to the blend, only I am not sure it will please the majority of Musc lovers (they will have to search a lot in order to find a note that resembles to musc, at least at its usual form). The base is quite pleasant but fails to project its woody character. More feminine and definitely not sexy for me.

    18th October, 2009

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    Black Walnut by Banana Republic

    Great idea, intriguing name, excellent packaging but average content. Really close to John Varvatos, but so weak… Pleasant fresh opening gives soon its place to a blend of light woods and tobacco leaf heart. But it’s the heart of an ill man, weak and malfunctioning. The cedar is so well hidden (I totally agree with purplebird7) and the tobacco is neither smoky nor sweet. You desperately want to discover more but there’s just nothing else to discover. Simply pleasant…

    15th October, 2009

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    Polo Modern Reserve by Ralph Lauren

    No one should doubt about the project’s intentions. We don’t talk about an improvement of the classic but of a modern approach on to the same theme, I suspect with only one and only reason. To attract a new and younger group of fans that love the classic Polo , but cannot imagine themselves smell like their father. And it’s definitely a success regarding the creation of an interesting scent, althought I am not sure it is different enough to call it “NEW”. A new fresher opening with green herbal notes and the pine still present but more polite. The heart incorporates wood, light floral and leather notes always on a patchouli background and altogether drydown into a beautiful light base. Less formal but still classy. A worthy successor of an American classic.

    09th October, 2009

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    Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi

    In general, intense peppery scents have either fanatic friends or fanatic enemies (I always try to be neutral in this war…). The untamed and non compatible nor with the summer weather neither with the daywear use, character of this note usually creates problems to many from us. Moreover the spicy and acid smell of pepper can, depending on the background, become tedious or even repellent. Being prepared for a heavy peppery-spicy scent, I was surprised by the light, bitter and herbal opening that was really pleasant and fresh. It was also great that I could accurately recognize each one of the notes that compose the top. The acidity of peppermint prepares you for the entry of black pepper, which along with the oregano dominate the spicy heart. The more you wait, the more pleasant and warm it gets, yet still bitter. For a spicy oriental, I would expect better longevity, but its mild quality make it vulnerable to time. Not my kind of scent but a must for the pepper lovers.

    07th October, 2009

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    Daim Blond by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    A joy for the senses. A rhapsody written on one and only theme approached successfully or not by so many composers in the past . However, I believe this version is written by Mozart. The theme is leather. But not any leather. The perfumer tried to define exactly the kind of leather he wanted and I think he succeeds in that. Instead of the usual old leather note, he presents one of a soft, artfully processed and luxurious . The blending is so perfect, it is almost impossible to accurately define the alternation of the notes and while the leather is so obvious from the opening the result is not linear at all. Top notes are ethereal, you instantly believe they will fade out in seconds, but instead they develop into a more powerful and long floral heart. So pleasant, so calm, so easy to combine with every outfit, casual or formal any time of the day. Simply Great!

    06th October, 2009

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    Gris Clair by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Definitely not the kind of lavender I expected to smell. Smoky, almost completely sun dried grey summer lavender, along with a really nice quality amber note create an interesting, yet linear blend. Unlike most SL creations, this one doesn’t evolve much on my skin, however the more you smell it the more familiar and comforting it becomes. A truly inspired formal winter scent, everyone should at least try.

    05th October, 2009

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    Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men by Giorgio Armani

    Don’t buy unless you try. Don’t buy unless you try. Don’t’ buy unless you try. (I should write it more than 3 times just to punish myself for ordering this, relying just on the Armani brandname). Aggressive and synthetic opening that clogs the nose. Just bearable mid notes, (still synthetic) and average base. Dysfunctional spray (at least mine). A complete disappointment.

    01st October, 2009

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    Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier

    Not for diabetics this one. Although I generally like sweet scents, this one just exceeds my limits. It is so unfair for the whole blend (which is not totally bad), to be ruined from the very beginning. Blame the huge doses of Amber and Vanilla for this rude oversweet opening. Give those two a few minutes to calm down and you ‘ll get the feminine version of Le Male. The powdery sweet musk notes at the base just finish you off. So uninspired and linear. Definitely not a commercial success for Gaultier.

    01st October, 2009

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    Armani Privé Cuir Améthyste by Giorgio Armani

    Cuir indeed. It’s not the harsh, vintage leather jacket of Cuiron, or that English Leather note of JC’s Old English but the refined and subtle suede note of an expensive pair of gloves. Amethyste of course. No other scent has ever described so accurately the color of this gem. Impressive floral (rose) and spicy (coriander) opening. Warm and sweet heart with purple violets and a soft leather note from the birch, smoky but not offensive. Rich powdery base that stays close to the skin for long. Warm, sensual and mysterious but if you don’t like the violet note , don’t even try this.

    30th September, 2009

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    L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Diptyque

    Unique opening. Red fruits marmalade still bubbling in the pot, with a touch of white rose petals and a hint of sweet citrus (similar to the one that opens OYEDO). Very sweet and intense feminine mid notes where the Bulgarian rose leads the way to the woods of the base. Great Longevity. Not a mainstream but worth at least a try.

    30th September, 2009

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    Oyédo by Diptyque

    One thing is sure. It’s not another boring hesperidic scent. Uplifting, opening, with a cocktail of citrus (lemon, orange, mandarin, grapefruit) but not the kind of citrus, scents usually start with. It’s sweet, tart and fruity but overall quite synthetic. Reminds me of lemon-orange candy drops, or lifesavers as others already said.Then comes the thyme note which is very clear, but not really herbal and green thanks to the citrus. The base is more on the exotic side, no woods , just thyme, orange and maybe some lemongrass but still soft and pleasant . Unisex but more feminine, definitely a daywear scent with good longevity. Fresh and joyful, however it fails to please all citrus scent lovers.

    28th September, 2009

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    Vivacité(s) de Bach by Les Fleurs de Bach

    I brought this, along with other artisanal or small firm (if you prefer) fragrance samples from a trip to Paris 2 years ago. When I noticed this was on the ‘’Recent Additions’’ list of Basenotes, I decided to open it and write a review. My knowledge about Dr Bach and his list of unusual flowers(at least for the perfumery industry) was basic, therefore my initial surprise on the first sniff of this juice was justified. The Pyramid provided by the maker puzzled me. Top notes: Gorse, Centaury, Middle Notes: Hornbeam, White Chestnut, Olive and Base Notes : Larch and Mustard. Even if you knew what Gorse, Centaury, Hornbeam or Larch smells like, I assure you, it would be impossible to separate any of those in that blend. The opening is very bitter, aromatic and herbal, very close to the smell of an Italian Amaro Aperitif (Campari). The herbal accord that dominates the composition becomes more fresh and earthy for the mid and base notes. I could see it only as a part of an aromatherapy treatment and not as an EDT. Actually the majority of the ingredients used, have some kind of healing properties (i.e. Centaury used to be prescribed by Saxon herbalists for snake bites and other poisons). Not for everyone.

    27th September, 2009

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    Saffron / Amber / Agar Wood / Cardamom by Korres

    Modern and elegant, but not luxurious. A great all day long masculine scent that works better in cold winter days. Powerful Spicy opening (cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg and a fresh note of bergamot) that calms down with a deeper, woody heart (sandalwood, cedarwood, saffron). The base is just perfect. More sweet than spicy incorporates notes of leather, amber and woods and stays really close to the body for quite a long time. The minimalistic package and the old pharmacy bottle as well as the detailed ingredient list used as the EDT’s name just complement the KORRES concept for natural ingredient products with a fresh attitude.

    26th September, 2009

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    Rose Wood / Blackcurrant / Cyclamen by Korres

    The strictly female scent from KORRES trio, confused me a bit. Having reviewed the two other EDT’s first ( both of them could easily be considered as unisex), I was expecting something else. Used to the warm oriental-woody character of those I was initially disappointed with this one. A blast of freshly cut roses and grass over a hazy fruity background opens the composition. The middle is more pleasant yet still floral (Rose note persists but it’s sweeter) with all kinds of flowers and blossoms : rose, lily,cyclamen, violet and freesia according to KORRES (It’s OK if you can smell only roses). The best is kept for last . The base is powdery floral with white musk nuances at the end. Innocence and purity. I can imagine it (in a different bottle of course) on Queen Elizabeth's the 1st boudoir. Rather classic than contemporary. If you like YSL’s ‘’Paris’’ , L’Occitane’s ‘’ Eau de 4 Reines’’ or Jean Charles Brosseau's ''Ombre Rose'', this is your next ‘’coup de coeur ‘’.

    26th September, 2009

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    Pepper / Jasmine / Gaiac Wood / Passion Fruit by Korres

    GROUP. Oriental -Spicy. GENDER. Unisex CREATIVITY. It’s modern, different and part of the first decent attempt for a ‘’made in Greece’’ fragrance. Congradulations. DAYorNIGHT? All day long. LONGEVITY. Not bad but could be better COMMENTS. Notes of bergamot, orange peel ,vanilla and spices create an interesting yet sharp opening. Progressively citrus notes faint to a sweeter heart where woods (cedar,sandalwood and gaiac) dominate over florals (jasmine) making it warmer and comforting. Creamy base blends soft pepper notes, woods and tobacco (and why not white chocolate as part of a sweet and creamy accord but don’t be afraid there is nowhere a ‘’green hop’’ note –by the way what a green hop smells like?) . It is my first choice from KORRES trio (no1 in sales among the three as retailers tell me) and I am sure you will love it and you ‘ll get a lot of compliments from people around you.

    25th September, 2009

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    Zanzibar by Van Cleef & Arpels

    GROUP. Citrus – Woody. GENDER. Unisex CREATIVITY. Absolutely nothing special. DAYorNIGHT? Strictly a daywear scent. LONGEVITY. Average. COMMENTS. Top note citrus, mid note citrus, base note citrus. So linear, so monotonous. You have the feeling that this nice fresh citrus opening will never leave your skin. Very few spices (coriander, pepper ) and some herbs try to take this a step further but its not enough. A soft woody note just comes too late. Good though as a car air freshener or a linen spray.

    25th September, 2009

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    Black Cashmere by Donna Karan

    GROUP. Oriental-Woody. GENDER. Unisex. CREATIVITY. Yes, it is a distinctive scent, created for women but can perfectly balance all those female notes in order to catch male fans too. DAYorNIGHT? Night, if you are a man, Winter Days and Night if you are a woman. LONGEVITY. Good. COMMENTS. Very very spicy and resinous opening with an exotic combination of oriental notes (clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, white pepper) mellows into a softer, warmer blend of florals (rose), incense, woods (cedar, sandalwood) and patchouli. The powdery base is more sweet and less spicy . A Mysterious, sensual, and sexy fragrance indeed.

    24th September, 2009

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    Cuiron by Helmut Lang

    GROUP.Woody-Chypre.GENDER.Strictly for Men .CREATIVITY. Just open your closet (or your dad’s) and bring to your nose your old tan leather jacket (yes, the one you have from your college days). What do you smell? Definitely Cuiron. So close to its name, describes the smell of leather in a perfect way. Not many fragrances ever did that so successfully. DAY or NIGHT? Although you can wear it day or night it is not a good choice for a sport/casual outfit. Give it a 3-piece suit and it can do miracles for you. LONGEVITY. Just great. COMMENTS. Orange blossom and bergamot top notes soon give their place to the velvety leather accord (pepper, cinnamon , cedar, oak). Mid notes simply fade to unveil a smoother interpretation of the same accord (woods –sandalwood and cedar- and subtle leather). Except the opening, the rest appears a bit linear to me but that’s fine, anyway, It is obvious that the main concern of the creator from the beginning to the end was to stay close to the name of the creation. Just leather. My only reason to review a discontinued fragrance is the hope of a re-launch. Until then, if you like Cuiron you may try Banana Republic’s Cordovan and Dirty English.

    23rd September, 2009

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    Artisan by John Varvatos

    GROUP. Citrus-Aromatic. GENDER. I suppose a woman could wear it too but it is mostly for men. CREATIVITY. Well…what can you expect from a citrus/hesperidic scent in this field? Not much. DAYorNIGHT? A hot sunny day in the open, a picnic basket open on the grass, 2-3 kids play around the happy couple. Perhaps an ‘’intense’’ version could work in the evening. LONGEVITY. Good enough for a fresh scent like this. COMMENTS. Interesting opening with citrus notes (orange and mandarin mostly) make it fresh and pleasant. The heart is floral. Orange blossom, Jasmine and a hint of Neroli (I am still searching for the ginger root) may sound great as a combination but the result is still average. Great blend for a fabric softener though, I d love to smell it on my clean shirt. Despite the impressive names of the base note components (Kephalis, Georgywood, Belambre, Serenolide) all of them being synthetic, the drydown is more or less expected. Ambery and woody, perhaps more soapy that it should be. Nice try from JV having in mind how different this one is from his previous scents. A few words for this unbelievable bottle. A great idea, based perhaps on the weaven big bottles used for wine or olive oil in the Greek province (don’t forget Varvatos family comes originally from Greece). Truly a masterpiece.

    22nd September, 2009

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    Les Nuits d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal

    GROUP. Citrus-Aromatic.GENDER. Safe choice for both male & female.CREATIVITY. Another citrus scent but very wisely blended. You certainly won’t impress wearing this one, but that is not always the point. DAYorNIGHT? For a scent with the word ‘’Nuits’’ in its name you would expect something bolder, long lasting and impressive. On the contrary it is light, quiet and fades relatively quickly (at least on me). The majority of the citrus fragrances are intended for daywear and I am afraid this one goes with the majority as well, despite the patchouli-sandalwood base. LONGEVITY. A disadvantage, for this very refined scent. COMMENTS. The finely balanced hesperidic opening (lemon zest, mandarin, bergamot and a touch of star anise) is the best part of it. The citrus notes are mild and not pungent at all. Very soon (unfortunately) come the basil and the cypress notes which are excellent, last longer but are a little boring. Base notes, patchouli, sandalwood and musk (sorry, I don’t get the vanilla) are well combined but don’t last for long.Overalll, a fine daywear scent. I wish it could last longer.


    22nd September, 2009

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    Eau Noire Cologne by Christian Dior

    GROUP. Oriental-fougere. GENDER. Ladies you can try it (please dont forget to put the bottle back into his closet). CREATIVITY. Walks in the path of Caron's 1934 hit ''Pour Un Homme'' but finally it has its own character. Certainly the most memorable fragrance from the trio range (Bois d' Argent, Cologne Blance, Eau Noire) created under the guidance of Hedi Slimane (the talented, skinny trousers former designer of Dior Homme). DAY OR NIGHT? I was tempted several times to try it at daytime but naahhh. It is definitely an evening one. Just dont waste it with a jeans & t-shirt outfit. LONGEVITY. Amazing longevity (at least on me) so be cautious and spray only twice. COMMENTS. The powerfull and complex sweet opening where Spices come first : immortelle and ouzo (greek aperitif) with a touch of curry and cedar notes, might discourage you but please wait...the party just began. Herbals (dried sage), florals (lavender) more spices (vanilla) a little smoke and gourmand notes (burnt caramel and vanilla creme brulee) take over to drive you to a more safe path. The middle notes are more calm and relaxed and have an amazing longevity. As base notes I can detect just lavender and vanilla pod, but in a much more powdery and refined way than the middle ones. It is definitely an ingenious fragrance but its neither for everyone nor for everywhere. It is heavy, deep, black in a sweet way, and if you are not in a mood to dig hard you wont find the treasure.

    21st September, 2009 (Last Edited: 22nd September, 2009)

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