Reviews by purplebird7

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    purplebird7
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    rating

    Alien by Thierry Mugler

    I wanted to be blown away by this. With a name like Alien and a bottle like Star Wars Clone Wars, it ought to be over-the-top-weird, right? Otherworldly? Artificial? As it turns out, I had to settle for only the last of those three adjectives.

    At first, I got excited by what promised to be a vinyl note, but it failed to develop. After that, something screechy and metallic wound its way through the entire fragrance, but it never fully distinguished itself as a note, per se. The "jasmine" certainly smelled artificial, but it fell far short of the impressively odd, green, powdery, plastic flowers of Kenzo Flower. Now, those truly were alien. They smelled like flowers straight out of a toy box.

    In the middle of this fragrance, I smelled the not-so-weird scent of... a root beer float and a pitcher of berry Kool-aid. Certainly those don't smell strange to anyone raised as a kid in America.

    Disappointed I was. Take the bottle, I will. And may the farce be with you.

    28th January, 2012.

    rating

    Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain

    This is a fine perfume, but it doesn't stand out enough in any single direction. It's a pretty, citrus-fruit rose on vanilla with some woodiness--but Tocade did that better. And it also has good dollop of powder. See what I mean? It tries to be everything at once. It aims to please many people. And it probably will turn more women into devotees of the Shalimar range.

    One thing is for certain, Shalimar Parfum Initial succeeds in using today's aroma materials to create a flanker that is respectful to the original, gorgeous creation. Herein lies the problem: Where is that original, gorgeous Shalimar? It is nowhere to be found in department store testers. What has happened to the EDT? It is now super-smoky up top with wimpy vanilla on the bottom. That deep, lemon custard that used to persist for hours on the skin is now nonexistent. The new, obnoxious smoke note is unlike the old bitter, woody, resinous note it used to be. By the time the smoke wears off, the lemon has already disappeared. And when the vanilla finally peeks through, it is already starting to fade. The timing of the orchestration has gone wrong. Where is the old, extravagant vanilla that used to meld with the lemon and exude a creamy citrus sweetness for hours? The EDT (which is what most people new to Shalimar will smell) is a huge disappointment.

    For that reason, I have to say that Shalimar Parfum Initial is better than Shalimar EDT at the present time. The additional rose and iris notes mask the thinness of the "ghost of its former self" that the EDT has become. Pure parfum is the only concentration of original Shalimar that I would buy. For any lesser concentration, I would default to the new Shalimar Parfum Initial. At least it is currently manufactured in a way that is true to its intent.


    28th January, 2012.

    rating

    Armani Code for Women by Giorgio Armani

    Bubblegum. I like it. It's childish in a fun way. It makes me hungry to chew a wad of sweet, dripping Bazooka bubblegum. Armani Code is juicy with flavor, tasty with sugar and vanilla. I was looking for a vanilla fragrance when I tried this, but it doesn't quite fit the bill due to its abundance of citrus fruit. Initially, the top notes impressed me as grapefruit, but later the fragrance seemed to be dominated by orange and lemon softened by vanilla. Someone here described it as "Cream-sicle," and I do agree with that assessment. I couldn't wear it daily even though I find it amazingly attractive. My appetite poses a problem for me wearing fragrances that smell like sweets; I can't take my mind off of eating. If I were out, driving around at night, this one would cause me to stop at the nearest gas station convenience store buy a big handful of gum.

    28th January, 2012.

    rating

    Arpège by Lanvin

    I got a whiff of a vintage bottle of Arpege, which gave me an intense case of dèjà vu. On the bottle resides the iconic image of a robed figure hanging onto the bowed figure of a pulling child that looks, from a distance, like the billowing, triangular sails of a ship. Inside the bottle is an aldehydic floral with a great, big, breathtaking jasmine note that floats me back into the past. I smell all of the women I have ever known who wore cocktail dresses and spiked heels and red lipstick and beehive hairdos while accompanying their husbands who wore suits and ties to parties because it was de rigueur to do so. Somehow, I always remember them as “grown-ups” in my skewed perspective, although they were younger, then, than I am now. Iin my jeans and t-shirts, I remain childlike in comparison to those serious-minded ladies who not only looked the part but played the part of ADULTS, and smelled like them, too.

    29th December, 2011.

    rating

    Zibeline by Weil

    What a treat. I never thought I would smell this amazing, rare perfume which was designed to be applied to fur. I carefully researched the notes, I applied it to my hand, I prepared to identify those which stepped to the forefront as most representative, and I inhaled. Imagine my surprise when I smelled… cherry almond. What is the matter with me? It’s similar to almond extract albeit fainter, richer, and more complex, maybe like heliotrope or scented tobacco. But I won’t lie; I don’t smell what I’m supposed to be smelling in here. If it’s any consolation to you Zibeline aficionados, I love this. I keep continually smashing my face into my hand for hours as it dies down to a delicious, sweet, but cryptic combination of notes. My nose totally flunked this test.

    29th December, 2011.

    rating

    Weil de Weil by Weil

    Weil de Weil
    This is primarily a vetiver fragrance for me, and a fascinating one at that. It is a wild meadow with spring flowers of hyacinth or daffodil. Don’t look for a floral, though. The overall aroma is that of a woven basket. There must be oakmoss in this because, for me, that ingredient consistently comes across as buttered popcorn. A faint note of celery firmly guides Weil de Weil into the category of grassy fragrances. Maybe this review is not one of the most poetic commendations I’ve ever written, but I can say that I recommend it as a carefree, untamed, pleasant and unique aroma.

    29th December, 2011.

    rating

    Moment Suprême by Jean Patou

    Oh, I’m going to add a review. * giggle* YOU ARE NOT ALONE. I do appreciate Jean Patou prior to Proctor & Gamble. I cursed in frustration when they announced that 1000 would henceforth be available in a “limited range” because we all know what that means: end of production. Then I lavishly applied the rest of my last bottle in defiance, rage, rage against the dying of the light. Member: Over-reactors Anonymous.

    I was happy to try Moment Supreme because lavender perfume hasn’t occupied much space in my wardrobe over the years, and I’m always glad to find one that I like. Silly me, Yardley English Lavender remains my benchmark—that and a small, straw basket full of dried lavender buds that I loved to open, stick my face into, and inhale deeply. Lavender isn’t a note that needs to be “fancied-up.” It doesn’t request the full menu, only a few á la cart items. Clean and spare works better than over-burdened with contrasting notes. Moment Supreme accomplishes just that. It makes use of lavender that is herbal to the point of smelling evergreen. To accentuate the dry, woodiness, it adds a little black pepper, but subtly, I’m glad to say, because too much of that note tips the scales into the repulsive zone for me. At the bottom of this gin-like concoction is a nice amber that steps forth and pushes the final phase into a sweet soapiness. Moment Supreme’s airy nature causes it to waft away sooner than I would like. Yet it left my skin smelling like it had been washed with fine hand soap.

    29th December, 2011.

    rating

    Balmain de Balmain by Pierre Balmain

    I always had a soft spot in my heart for Balmain ever since I first smelled the original L’Eau de Monsieur Balmain, and, let me tell you, back in the day, it was absolutely gorgeous. That lemon and verbena fragrance with wild grass and herbs on a real sandalwood base diffused with power-musk was…FWOOSH! Marvelous. Balmain’s retro fragrances are the shiznitz. Jolie Madame is such fun. It once elicited a full-faced blush from the husband of a friend of mine when I unthinkingly thrust my wrist under his nose—yeah, right in front of her. (I felt so embarrassed for him. My bad.)

    Balmain de Balmain is hearkens back to the day when a woman and her perfume weren’t afraid of saying, “I’m wearing perfume.” It is a woody, rose-jasmine Chypre on a honeyed amber base that never becomes too sweet. It reminds me a little bit of Estee Lauder Knowing. A friend remarked that Balmain de Balmain smelled like “suburban, bridge-playing ladies,” which captures the ambience nicely. Then again, she’s not a fan of Knowing like I am. The Balmain is more polite than that former, muscular, truncheon-wielding scent of the 80s. It can be applied in more copious quantities than Knowing—a little spritz of which grows in loudness like an approaching train, emanating clouds of sweet powder eight hours later. Balmain de Balmain avoids the obnoxious powder, but then, it lacks the deep plum and patchouli notes of Knowing, opting for a retro, aldehydic opening with green notes and then passing through it’s well-balanced florals to a dry oakmoss on warm amber. It announces itself as a perfume in the classic, French style. I doubt that it does well on today’s market, even though Knowing sells for Estee Lauder, but, hey, some of us like to smell like perfume, not fresh flowers.

    29th December, 2011.

    rating

    L'Oranger Neroli by L'Occitane

    I hope I'm writing this for the correct perfume. This is for the bottle with the beautiful Art Deco lettering and drawing of orange flowers. L'Occitane's original Neroli perfume is described online as a "treasured and rarely offered fragrance." In order for a new box to re-sell at around $400 for a 1.7 oz bottle, it helps to be rare and in high demand. For such an expensive neroli perfume, the first question is: Is it good? Short answer: Yes. Straight out of the bottle, it smells organic and botanical with a high percentage of natural ingredients, chiefly neroli and orange blossom. The base is nice, too--a rich, creamy amber that glows for hours. The color of the perfume is alarming--dark pink-orange--and probably leaves stains. The color reminds me of Anne Pliska, and the aroma has a bit of that same vibe, too. ( I have never smelled any of the new L'Occitane Neroli, but it would be hard for me to believe that it would be as nice as this first version.) Second question: Is it worth the price? Long answer: If you wear this type of head-turning fragrance enough to warrant the cost, if that amount of money is no big deal to you, if you don't mind falling for a discontinued fragrance, and if you're not expecting high art as much as a swooning, sweet, realistic orange flower perfume, then yes.






    28th December, 2011. (Last Edited: 8th January, 2012.)

    rating

    Burberry for Women by Burberry

    The note pyramid doesn't hit the target for me, except maybe for tonka and an amber that is decidedly vanilla. This perfume smells gourmand to me, like a creamy, vanilla, coconut, praline pudding underneath some tart top notes that were ambiguoulsy citrus--even though only bergamot is listed--along with lavender and mint, which are rather incongruous with vanilla. I can't say that I like it much. I do like the flanker, Burberry Brit. That one greatly pleases me for no easily explainable reason.

    1st November, 2011.

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    Couture Couture by Juicy Couture

    I avoided this perfume for years because so many people were raving about it--people who wouldn't give the time of day to classic fragrances. It wasn't fair of me, I'll admit. Plus, the name "Juicy" made me think of Wrigley's Juicy Fruit Chewing Gum, and my opinion of this perfume suffered as a result of that connotation. Indeed, it is a fruity floral, a genre that used to make me run in terror, as if possessed of demons shouting, "You're too old! Go wear Old Lady Perfume!" (which, by the way, I like). So, today, I sprayed myself with both Juicy Couture and Viva La Juicy. I didn't like the flanker, and the original struck me as just another fruity floral until a few minutes in, when the honeysuckle stepped to the forefront, and it became more floral. Juicy Couture is a tangerine honeysuckle flower shop. And that's not bad--it's just not my particular style. I no longer disparage this fragrance. It's good for its genre.

    1st November, 2011.

    rating

    F for Fascinating Night by Salvatore Ferragamo

    Smells like bubblegum in a good way. I hesitate to rate it any higher because it is too sweet for me to wear regularly, but I like the combination of notes. Mandarin is dominant, and I'm surprised to discover the presence of pepper--I suppose it helps make the fragrance more woody. A comfortable floral combination of rose and jasmine adorn the heart. And another comfortable base of amber, musk, and patchouli form the base. This perfume strives to be agreeable rather than to break new ground, and it succeeds at that goal. In a way, it reminds me of Coco Mademoiselle in its appeal. The same mandarin-patchouli combo works to create a fruity-woody-Chypre accord, although Fascinating Night is far less complex in its development. I do like the fact that new Chypres are being developed to replace the formulas nerfed by oakmoss restrictions. Yet this one teeters on the edge of not being a Chypre due to it candylike presentation. Good thing I like bubblegum.

    21st October, 2011.

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    Amazing Grace by Philosophy

    I smelled this on numerous other women, stopped them in their tracks, and asked them what it was. "Amazing Grace," was the frequent reply. I could tell it was a musk, and a good one at that. The first time I tried it, by myself, was on paper, and the rose stood out for hours. On my skin, however, this perfume rapidly receeded into an exceedingly clean musk that quickly apologized befor slinking off into soapiness. Disappointing. My other favorite musk, one which makes me stop strangers and inquire, is Egyptian Goddess perfume oil by Auric Blends, which is less complex and wears better, without changing, on me.

    17th October, 2011.

    rating

    Brit by Burberry

    This review is for the EDP. I can't justfy why I love this. It's not the type of perfume I usually seek; I'm not a Burberry fan. I don't like fruity perfumes or gourmands. Nor do I care for decidedly synthetic fragrances. I love old-syle Chypres, and perfumes with high percentages of natural ingredients. Yet, there you have it, I really like Burberry Brit. There's no rational explanation. This is a surprising stand-out of a perfume for me.

    It smells of fruit-twist bubblegum, maybe strawberry-orange Trident, plus creamy vanilla and...PLASTIC. It's that same surreal aroma that attracted me to Kenzo Flower. Slick, spicy, almondy, heliotropish. Creamy-peachy-waxy-warm, like a melted toy. Girlish but weird. Compelling like new-car smell. But strong, and chemical.

    17th October, 2011.

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    Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf

    I smelled this on another woman and loved it. On myself, it is less impressive, but I don't know why. It's a well-balanced floral with sweetness, and creaminess, with no particular note standing out. And it must have patchouli, or I wouldn't give something in this genre a second thought. It's beautiful, but it's not outstanding enough for me to be sure that I would stay interested enough throughout the duration of a full bottle.

    17th October, 2011.

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    Opus I by Amouage

    I don't get it. All that expense and opulence, but it really doesn't make a clear statement to me. Amouage Opus I impresses me as a creamy, peppery, woody, white floral with hinds of plum. I think it tries to do too many things at once. It's pleasant, but I'd rather choose one aspect and stick to it.

    24th August, 2011.

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    Sélection Verte by Creed

    Creed Selection Vert was more of a sweet green than a leafy one. Featuring lime, lavender, and spearmint, it was not as "chewing gum" as Guerlain AA Mentafolia, and it was quite a bit more masculine.

    24th August, 2011.

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    Gin Fizz by Lubin

    I admit to a fondness for Tanqueray, Bombay, Old Tom, and Gordon's. I love that juniper aroma and taste. So, naturally, I was thrilled to find a perfume that captured that essence totally. With a citris and juniper top, it fizzed right out of the bottle. It was sparkly and dry, salty and fresh. Like other reviewers, I was disappointed with the short duration. I thought, maybe, I should just splash some of the real thing on myself. Then I went out and drank a Gin Fizz. This was tons of fun.

    24th August, 2011.

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    Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain

    A sweet and dirty fragrance. On top is citrus--orange and lemon. Next comes the fougere characteristic of lavender, which assists in making the rose more masculine. To sweeten things up, a good dose of vanilla is added. Most prominent and long-lasting of all, the base contains civit, musk and ambergris. This huge, animalic presence elevates Monsieur de Monsieur above the fray in terms of modern masculine fragrances. Wear it if you dare.

    24th August, 2011.

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    Nuit De Longchamp by Lubin

    A soapy, powdery, balsamic Chypre featuring orange blossom, balsam, oakmoss, and spices. There is some broom in this, which might account for its strangeness. Broom (or Genet) is not a usual note, and it tends to add haylike or tobacco nuances to a fragrance. Along with oakmoss, that would impart an old-fashioned character to this perfume that modern tastes would find challenging.

    24th August, 2011.

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    Bois de Violette by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    A pleasant, sweet yet dry violet fragrance. Violet candy is offset by a big, warm, diffusive cedar note with hints of salty spices resembling a tame version of cumin. The effect is like violet cotton candy, hot threads of spun sugar, and a blast of salty air--an incongruous blend that manages to succeed, forming something interesting that you have never smelled before and want to smell again (which pretty much sums up a major portion of the Serge Lutens line.)

    Whether or not you want to wear it will depend upon your affinity for the scent of violets. My own preference in violet fragrance veers off the path of tradtional florals. As a point of reference, my other two favorite violets perfumes are these: the stems-roots-and-all darkness of Ava Luxe Midnight Violet (no longer available) and the one perfume that I didn't even realize was violet until I the third time I tried it--the gorgeous Ormonde Woman by Ormonde Jayne.

    9th June, 2011.

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    Beautiful by Estée Lauder

    A soapy floral featuring rose, orange, and powder. This smells too clean for me. It has that "just stepped out of the shower" aroma of soaped skin. I don't find it offensive, but it is no rightt for me. I associate this aroma with some lipsticks, which I think smell nice as I put them on, but I wouldn't want to smell like that all day.

    2nd June, 2011.

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    Pleasures by Estée Lauder

    I never have gotten any pleasure out of pleasures. It is an unobtrusive blend of florals, none of them realistic, all of them with a cleanness that is too sharply focused. It goes on bright and plain and stays that way. The acidity is firmly affixed to the florals, not to any citrus. This type of fragrance is not my genre at all.

    2nd June, 2011.

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    Private Collection Amber Ylang-Ylang by Estée Lauder

    This is an amber fragrance, not a ylang-ylang perfume. It is not floral but gourmand. The amber here is of the vanilla bourbon variety--boozy and delicious, with strong notes of caramel. Maybe there's even a little toasted coconut here. A good dose of saltiness keeps it from going into gooey candy territory. Whether you like it will depend on what you wamt in the way of amber; it's not for people who seek labdanum, the resinous plant material that is ironically animalic. This amber refers to vanilla in all it's glory--sweet and dark. I would rate it higher if the salty note carried on longer.

    2nd June, 2011.

    rating

    Private Collection Jasmine White Moss by Estée Lauder

    I give this high marks for an original jasmine fragrance becuase it starts out drier than any other jasmine frangrance I have ever smelled. I would rate it higher if the dryness stayed throughout the fragrance. It starts with a strong grassy, salty accord that offers a counterpoint to any floral sweetness. The grassy note is my favorite part of this fragrance. It is an extremely clean vetiver that smells like dried grass, which is beautiful. As for oakmoss, it may use a certain percentage of the real ingredient (which I always think smells a bit like salted popcorn) but most of the moss note consists of a technologically-rafted accord that is stronger and drier than the real thing. As this part fades away, a more traditional jasmine fragrance emerges, one that is creamy and fuity, almost cool and aquatic because it involves a
    lovely melon aroma. By itself, this part of the development offers a sweet, pleasant, abstract jasmine. I would like to see the dry part hang onto the wet part longer because that trick elevated this fragrance to a unique take on jasmine.

    2nd June, 2011.

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    Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estée Lauder

    One of the rare few floral perfumes I have ever owned. This smells like a live gardenia flower--heady, sweet, and head-turning. Not much should be worn at a time, but it can be reapplied repeatedly without building up into an offensive level. Most florals don't last long on me, and this one doesn't either. Yet, it avoids the harsh notes that manage to ruin synthetic gardenia fragrances for me. It is realistic and deep but clear, without a lot of creaminess that says "perfume of a flower" instead of "a flower." Amazing headspace technology. Estee Lauder got it right. No wonder this juice is flying off the shelves in some department stores. I bought a bottle to wear at my daugher's wedding this summer, and it's perfect--clean enough for the hot, August, outdoor photo shoot and classy enough for the cool, indoor reception. Nothing says "wedding" like white florals. This one invited me over from the dark side of Chypre bases where I usually dwell. And that's saying a lot.

    2nd June, 2011.

    rating

    Hermèssence Osmanthe Yunnan by Hermès

    This is my favorite JCE perfume. I usually like basenote-heavy fragrances, and his compsitions are too airy for me, but, in this one, simple is appropriate. Osmanthe Yunnan has a rich, complex apricot note that smells like apricot skin, only sweet to the nose, not to the (imagined) taste. It is firmly affixed to a big, dry, woody note--the famed "tea" aroma. Overall, this perfume smells like a big jar of apricot-flavored tea leaves, a gorgeous scent. It is amazing to find this captured in a perfume--albeit one that is a skin scent. It has heft and presence, but negligible sillage. Now, to justify the $235 price for such a delicate perfume enjoyed at close range, that is my conundrum.

    20th May, 2011.

    rating

    Dior Addict by Christian Dior

    On the skin, it is fabulous. For years, I refused to try it because it had a repulsive synthetic note on paper. Today I sprayed my hand, and it bloomed into a powdery vanilla with a sharp sweetness. After awhile, underlying caramel and creme notes emerge. At its drydown, it smells like a big bowl of warm tapioca. Addict has a live, fleshy quality, like the scent of fresh milk. I don't get any dangerous, drug or sex addiction vibes from this perfume. It's pure comfort.

    8th February, 2011.

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    FlowerbyKenzo by Kenzo

    After years, I finally tried this for the first time. I used to pass it up, saying, "I don't like florals." Ha ha. The joke is on me. This is PLASTIC FLOWERS. It is totally weird. I give it high marks for originality. I probably won't buy it and wear it, but it sure is fun. This smells like a bouquet of children's toy flowers scented with powder. The entire scent is sweet plastic and powder. This is amazing. I keep smelling it, through the air, for hours and hours. There's a bit of ivy or some strange greenness. The rest is pure fantasy. Wow.

    8th February, 2011.

    rating

    Guilty by Gucci

    I keep looking for an amazing perfume by Gucci, and I keep getting disappointed. I liked 2002's cumin, amber and musk monster Gucci Eau de Parfum. Their subsequent attempt at a Chypre (Gucci) flopped IMO. After that I lost faith. It took some courage for me to try another Gucci, and I had hoped for more heft, choosing the scent with the boldest name--Guilty. Alas, I was underwhelmed again. With a name like that, one would hope for something either sexy and animalic or decadent and gourmand. Guilty delivered neither. I can't say I dislike it, nor do I like it. It's pleasant but not groundbreaking.

    8th February, 2011.

    Showing 1 to 30 of 483.

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