Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by tvlampboy

Showing all 584 reviews

Gale Hayman Man by Gale Hayman

If you want an inexpensive coniferous frag, reach for Pino Silvestre and leave this stuff on the shelf.

Offensive? No.
Thumbs down? No -- I'll give it a solid "neutral" rating.
Interesting, though, or worth seeking out? Not really.
01 July 2008

Colours for Men by Alexander Julian

Powdery beyond powdery -- the quintessence of powdery, in fact.
(n.b.: The underlying sweetness here is of the "perfume-y" type, not the gourmand type.)

A definite try-before-you-buy kind of frag, esp. in light of its high "discontinued, hard-to-find" price tag.
01 July 2008

Xeryus by Givenchy

A grand "sweater weather" fragrance. I really love this Eighties classic, but it -- by its very nature -- is (at least for me!) one of those frags that can seldom be worn after spring/before autumn.

I don't find it linear at all -- on the contrary, I contend that it's rich, complex and beautifully blended. Not as formal as Rouge, either -- Xeryus is versatile enough for casual and/or office wear.

I wish that Givenchy had kept the original "Eighties Neo-Art Deco" bottle, but perhaps the house's marketing department thought differently.
01 July 2008

Royal Copenhagen by Royal Copenhagen

Powdery, masculine and musky classic. A smidgen dated? Perhaps, but no more so than another powdery favorite, Jockey Club. In fact, JC reminds me a great deal of RC -- just imagine Jockey Club with dryer notes, more powder and less carnation. Same barbershop appeal. Pinaud, too, is in the same family, as is Canoe.

A big thumbs up, especially given the price tag and wide availability.
30 June 2008

Truth Calvin Klein Men by Calvin Klein

I fully expected to hate this one, and to dub it the evil stepchild of Eternity. To be honest, though, I have to admit that I was pleasantly surprised. A little melon-y for my tastes, true, but far more pleasant than I expected. I kept smelling white musk after about 30 minutes or so.

Would I go out of my way to get a bottle? No, almost certainly not. But would I wear it if given this as a gift? Probably, if only occasionally. Still NOT my favorite KIND of scent, but all in all better than the vast, vast majority of other crappy offerings that CK has put out (CKOne and CKBe the exceptions) since after Obsession.

Thumbs up.
24 June 2008

Rosamor by Oscar de la Renta

Soapy and artificial smelling. Not really bad, no, but Taolady nailed it with the adjective "forgettable."

Want a pure, simple rose for a young lady, or perhaps a good quality rose frag that would be both affordable and inexpensive? Try Gres' Cabaret pour Femme, or pick up Tea Rose by TPW. I won't say "avoid Rosamor", no, but I won't be steering you toward it, either.
24 June 2008

Fracas for Men by Robert Piguet

Licorice scented, soap -- CHEAP licorice-scented floral soap. Probably first discovered in a toxic waste site, no less.

Cheap, tacky bottle and horrible plastic lid, to boot.
24 June 2008

Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent

A definite must-try for lovers of bright aldehydes. RG (the original) is all about lightness and brightness and all things Parisian. It may well be a tad dated, yes, butby no means so much that it's unapproachable. A true classic here, and one that's especially good in summer months.
04 June 2008

Angel by Thierry Mugler

It's odd that I so love Angel yet so abhor A*men, as many of the same notes are there. But what I get from Angel is patchouli and chocolate and sweet burnt sugar, while all I get from A*men is rancid cocoa and burnt tar (and lots of the latter).

Angel, for me, is as rich, sensual and vanilla-laden as A*men is harsh, bitter and migraine-inducing.
04 June 2008

Little Italy by Bond No. 9

Hmmmm -- orange marmalade with a spritzer. How very droll.
24 May 2008

Maxims pour Homme by Maxims

Think Francesco Smalto pour Homme married to Montana Parfum d'Homme and you pretty much have all the olfactory info you need to peg this one.

Sadly, discontinued.
14 May 2008

Nicolaï pour Homme by Parfums de Nicolaï

Gris Clair's warmer, friendlier cousin. (Not really close enough to be a sibling, but definitely in the same formal lavender clan.)

I'm not usually a huge fan of mint (witness my general indifference to Live Jazz, Pasha and others), but the mint really, really works here.

The frag itself does warm up a bit as the wearing goes on, true, but this neverthelss a formal, almost aloof kind of frag from beginning to end. (Great for the office, but probably not a romantic dinner kind of frag, let alone casual Friday.)

Thumbs up, granted, but only with the provisos above firmly in place.
12 May 2008

Comme des Garçons 3 by Comme des Garçons

CdG #3 is green and citrus-laden at first, granted, even to the point of fruitiness, but that soon dies down and is replaced by a cedary brute that is (at least to my nose) a half-sibling to Terre d'Hermes. (I can't believe no one else has picked up on this so far!)

Still, there is that trademark CdG synthetic "twang" to this one, and that distinguishes it (and not for the better) from TdH, at least in my humble opinion. Neutral on this one, as it's almost like a TdH wannabe that doesn't quite make it.
07 May 2008

Quattro by Mary Kay

A bone dry men's chypre from MK, with hints of spices below.
Very good longevity.

For some reason, MK has either discontinued this one. Can't imagine why. It was, along with Tamerisk, MK's very best men's frag.
05 May 2008

Crystal Noir by Versace

I'm not a fan of fig notes (isn't that fig I detect in it?), but I do like the florals in this one. Nice woodsy dry-down that makes the fruity floral (read: slightly harsh) opening worth it all.

All that aside, I won't be scrambling to buy this one for a gift anytime soon.

Thumbs up, but only marginally so.
19 April 2008

Baby Rose Jeans by Versace

Awfully sweet for my taste -- I'm going to have to give this one a neutral.

I don't mind bold roses (e.g., Black Aoud), nor dry roses (e.g., Cabaret pour Femme), nor green roses (e.g., Tea Rose). All that said, I don't often care for sweet roses such as this one.

A fine frag for kids, maybe, but probably not for anyone over 16.
19 April 2008

Basala / Basara by Shiseido

Gorgeous frag I love to wear in cold weather. (That said, I'm not sure I can even imagine putting this one on in spring or summer.) Deep and complex and oh-so-spicy -- not at all like the other (read: bland, boring) Shiseido frags for men that I've tried.

The coriander can be a bit strong at first, as can both the cedar and lavender. Basala/Basara is definitely one of those frags, though, that you really need to give at least a few hours' time to, if not multiple wearings.

A must-try if not a must-have.
18 April 2008

L'Eau Homme by ST Dupont

Herrera Aqua? Not even that memorable.

In a word? Meh.
Two words? Aquatic meh.
18 April 2008

Signature pour Femme by ST Dupont

Very akin to Dupont's Signature for men, with bright florals and fruits over a woody base. This is one of the few frags I can think of in which the gardenia and rose don't overpower the other floral notes.

Pretty old school in its construction, though, and not for young women in search of a light and breezy type of frag. Also, this one's probably better suited for romantic and formal events in the evening -- I can certainly see how it might come across as overbearing and/or cloying in confined business spaces.
18 April 2008

Jack Black Signature Silver Mark by Jack Black

Dry, patchouli-laden fougère that really stands out among the JB products I've sampled. If you're a fan of Heritage and/or Cacharel pour Homme, you'll want to give this one a fair shake.

JB Signature almost has an Eighties powerhouse feel about it -- very bold and masculine and not at all what you'd expect from a frag created less than a decade ago.
17 April 2008

Jack Black Signature Black Mark by Jack Black

First off, neither Black Mark nor Gucci PH have been able to offer me in the way of cedar-based frags what Lalique Equus edt has been able to. Still, I like Black Mark better than PH -- it's creamier and softer and lacks that hard, cedar-y edge that PH possesses.

Like foetidus, I'm not a huge fan of saffron (hence my indifference toward L'Homme Sage as well). Still, I can't help but like Black Mark and appreciate its quality ingredients and clever blending. All in all, a must-try frag for cedar fans who've not yet sampled it.
17 April 2008

Jovan Ginseng NRG by Jovan

Not my cup of tea (I'm no fan of fig notes in general), but remarkably good stuff for the moolah. It's definitely a product of the late Nineties, what with its "clean and fresh" herbal thaaaang going on, but all in all not bad at all for something from Jōvan.
13 April 2008

Jovan White Musk for Men by Jovan

Pleasant and clean and remarkably affordable. If you like Gendarme, CK1 and/or Issey Miyake, you'll likely flip for this little puppy (especially once you see the VERY modest cost).

Decent longevity and good sillage -- a damn good bang for very little coin.
13 April 2008

DKNY Red Delicious Men by Donna Karan

This is what happens when you leave your Carlos Santana for Men next to your Liz Claiborne Spark -- the two mate at night and create this odd little baby.

Put another way, it's Spark without the cheap synthetic rumminess and Santana minus the distinctive (and very pleasant) musky notes.

If you like fruity, fairly sweet men's frags, you can't go wrong (esp. for the low price tag). If this type of frag is NOT your bailiwick, though, I'd run screaming in the opposite direction.

I'm giving this one a thumbs up, but only with the proviso above.
13 April 2008

Fleur du Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

This is what Le Mâle SHOULD have been -- COULD have been, even. Glorious use of neroli, and proof positive that white florals for men can and do work.

I've no doubt that Fleur du Mâle is chock-a-block full of synthetics, and frankly I don't give a crap -- it WORKS. I especially like the sexy use of vanilla here, and (again) can't stop thinking about the clever way in which neroli is used in it, either.

I get tons of compliments when I don this one, and also feel very sexy and confident after having put it on. At the very least, I have to say that everyone should at least try this one once.
11 April 2008

Quelques Fleurs L'Original by Houbigant

Dense describes it perfectly -- a dense multi-floral from another era altogether. Don't think for a moment, though, that "dense" here implies sodden or heavy. No, this is dense complexity -- the French perfumer's art at its best.

What starts out as tuberose overdose with lily and jasmine galore soon dries down into a green floral delight and then onward into a warm and inviting muskiness.

Very, VERY old school opulence -- not for the faint of heart, nor for the die-hard fan of Tommy Girl and other relentless, watery clone frags. Appropriate for any age if worn with confidence. A must-try for any frag aficionado, too.
11 April 2008

Aoud Damascus by Montale

Magnificent rendering of the rose note, I'll agree. Still, what makes it so is the unusual use of gurgum (thanks for the info there, zztopp) and what I can only describe as a deliciously high quality sandalwood note -- very dry, very expensive. (I hope I have this pegged -- that's certainly what I'm picking up here.)

This is by far the most subtle of the aoud offerings from Montale that I've sampled to date, but it's no blushing violet. The aoud note is clear and consistent and long lasting on me, and in no danger of being overwhelmed by the rose (as is almost the case insofar as Black Aoud goes).

Definitively unisex comfort frag -- very powdery, very dry but not dessicated. HUGE thumbs up!
10 April 2008

Herrera for Men by Carolina Herrera

Herrera for Men is just a tad too sweet for me -- is it a clove note that makes it so? No, I don't think so -- it seems to be an anise note, or something along those lines (but not listed).

It's a classic, though -- just a classic I'd rather give out for gifts than keep for myself. I can definitely see this one still being around twenty years from now and -- in a world of ephemeral market "blips" -- that's saying a lot.
09 April 2008

Herrera Aqua by Carolina Herrera

One of the few aquatics I can really say I like. Very fresh, very crisp bergamot here, with a fruity heart and a light musky base. Decent longevity; average sillage.

I won't be going out of my way to snag a bottle, no, but I certainly have to give this frag a thumbs up.
09 April 2008

Sand & Sable by Coty

Soapy, powdery gardenia. Goes on with a sharp edge, but dries down beautifully for a drugstore type frag.

Lots of bang for the buck here -- a definite must-try for fans of White Shoulders, Jungle Gardenia and White Diamonds alike.
09 April 2008

Bogart by Jacques Bogart

Seventies Era powerhouse chypre. Very green and herbal, but also leathery and tough -- imagine Equipage without its polite veneer and rounded corners. A definite classic, yes, but one which would likely not sell well today -- not at all. This is a very masculine, very French affair whose composition would today be a bit of a dinosaur. (And more's the pity.)
07 April 2008

Adolfo for Men by Frances Denney

Big oily eighties monster -- very green at first, but dry and woodsy later on.

I can't say that I remember it terribly fondly, no, but I certainly can't say that it was crap, either. My dad used to wear this one from time to time, and I remember it as one of many loud, brash Eighties frags, some of which were fabu, some of which were just OK (like Adolfo) and some of which were, well, you get the picture.
05 April 2008

Mignonette by Voluspa

Gorgeous concoction -- easily my favorite of the Voluspa line thus far. Longevity doesn't seem to be as much of an issue with this one as it is with other Voluspa edt's, no, but I still find Mignonette lacking in the longevity department.

Wonderful use of fruit notes here, btw. Mignonette is really too feminine for me to wear out in public, so I think I'll just stick to the candle versions to appreciate this frag. I wish that Voluspa would create a men's frag (for home and body alike), or at least one that had some real "teeth" to it (and longevity). I see a lot of potential here, though.
03 April 2008

Linden Blond Tabac by Voluspa

Clever affair with crisp citrus top notes and a powdery, slightly floral dry-down. Still, the longevity issue rears its ugly head here -- as it does with all of Voluspa's edt offerings. I find that this one lasts no longer than one hour on my flesh.

I think I'll just keep buying the candles in this one. Still, I have to do the right thing and give the fragrance itself a thumbs up.
03 April 2008

Antidote by Viktor & Rolf

Gorgeous frag -- really what Prada for Men wanted to be and/or should have been. Sweet amber lovers, beware though -- this is seriously sweet territory here.

Balanced, complex dry-down that's vaguely reminiscent of Egoiste and Prada alike, but with a powdery note (the iris, perhaps?) that makes me keep smelling my wrist all evening, long after the spicy heart notes have died down.

I've read that this is Rufus Wainwright's signature scent, and that makes me like this little puppy all the more.
03 April 2008

Vera Wang for Men by Vera Wang

For some odd reason, VW for Men "feels" like a frag that might have been blended three decades ago rather than one (or less than one) -- very elegant use of sandalwood and leather in this juice, but a bit formal and stuffy.

VW is great for office wear and even formal occasions, but, IMHO, is probably NOT the best choice for "jeans and t-shirts" sorts of days. All in all, an elegantly blended affair that's well worth the money.
03 April 2008

Olive Leaf by Thymes

Warm and dry fragrance for fans of olive notes, with just a touch of pepper in there to break up the monotony. Great (albeit fairly linear) frag for the office or classroom.

Nice range of home scenting products available in this frag, too -- I like that about The Thymes and its full range of mdse.
03 April 2008

Goldleaf by Thymes

Warm, soft and powdery -- literally "feels" golden in the nose. Goldleaf is The Thymes' best seller, and I can't believe that this ultra-feminine classic doesn't get more play here on Basenotes.

Btw, guys, it's not just for the gals -- you can enjoy a full range of Goldleaf home scenting products (e.g., candles, sprays etc.) without spritzing on the juice itself.
03 April 2008

Tiffany by Tiffany

This gem would be staid at best (and downright prim at worst) were it not for the gorgeous fruit notes that lift it up and away from many other traditional, woody florals of the same type.

Polge did a wonderful job here balancing the fruity and the floral, and, in doing so, managed to create a lovely frag. That said, it pales in comparison to Tiffany for Men which, IMHO, ranks as one of his greatest creations ever.
03 April 2008

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

Bizarre but beautiful concoction that puts me very much in mind of Thierry Mugler's Angel. A deep, chocolate-drizzled floral gourmand that is way too feminine on my skin, but definitely a creation to be admired from afar -- I can certainly see why this one has its ardent devotees.
03 April 2008

Cuir d'Oranger by Miller Harris

I agree with pluran -- this sexy leather frag is easily related to Tabac Blond, but considerably more masculine. The oakmoss moves it into the realm of the bad boy, granted, but there's still a formality here in spite of the leathery/orange-y sexiness. (I would feel just as comfortable putting this on for the board room as for the boudoir.)

I haven't yet sprung for a bottle, no, but am making my decant last as long as humanly possible. Along with Noir Epices (one of my all time favorites), Cuir d'Oranger is one of the very best orange-heavy frags ever made, IMHO.
03 April 2008

Or des Indes by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Bal a Versailles' rich older sister, with opoponax added and more sandalwood for sheer exoticism and more complexity. Also a distant cousin of Shalimar.

Truly one of the most beautiful leathery, powdery dry-downs in the fragrance world. Easily unisex -- I have no earthly idea why MPG ever labeled it as a "women's" frag in the first place.
03 April 2008

Bijan Black for Men by Bijan

A boring little floral for men -- nothing particularly "black" about it. Sweet vanilla is sort of synthetic. Snore.
19 January 2008

Riverside Drive by Bond No. 9

GIT and MI here, with no hint (that I can see) of SMW.

Not my favorite among the Bond No. 9 frags, no, but that's really because of personal "frag type" preferences and not because of the frag itself.

Vibert's right, btw, about the longevity -- it does outlast others in this family, and features a more interesting dry-down as well.
19 January 2008

Spezie de Medici by I Profumi di Firenze

Hmmm -- I think we used to make pomanders like this in Sister Elizabeth's first grade class. We stuck cloves in oranges and then let the oranges dry. We then gave these clove-studded oranges to our mothers. The smell was marvelous, you bet, but for FAR less moolah.
18 January 2008

Amarige by Givenchy

An explosive flower bomb that came around long before the Viktor & Rolf frag of that same name. As has been amply noted below, this is potent stuff, so do apply with caution. (The edp is easily the equivalent of most perfumes -- a double spritz or daub should suffice.)

Very green and fruity in its opening, with a luscious tuberose and jasmine filled heart that soon gives way to soft musk and sweet spices.

Many detractors, yes, but many more fanatical followers. (Myself included.)
18 January 2008

Déclaration by Cartier

Fairly spartan pyramid, with a citrusy/woodsy opening and a woody/spicy dry-down.

Cumin haters and cardamom foes need not apply, btw -- just be forewarned. (As with Rive Gauche pour Homme, Kingdom and other frags, these two spices can have a "sweating Pakistani cabby after having eaten curry" effect on some wearers' skins.)

I think of Déclaration as TdH's predecessor. This is odd, esp. since Déclaration came out at a time (a decade ago) when the diluted little Tommy Boys ruled the roost.
18 January 2008

Ginger Essence by Origins

Imagine Happy with more ginger and less grapefruit, all on a bed of amber and light sandalwood. The ginger is strong and zesty, but not strong enough to keep the longevity where it needs to be. (Expect fairly frequent re-applications with this one.)

Beautifully blended, yes, but (again) the longevity sucks. Moderate sillage. Easily unisex, but leans just a hair toward the feminine.

Thumbs up, but with the things above duly noted.
18 January 2008

Sweet Absinthe by Ava Luxe

I've only smelled absinthe once, and I remember it having been far more licorice-y/anise-y than this. What I'm picking up here is more caraway-ish in nature, possibly with hints of some green herbal note -- lovage, perhaps, or maybe even tarragon? Would love to see the pyramid on this odd little beast. There's a definite streak of mint here, as well.

Don't know quite what to make of this one, really. It goes on smelling very medicinal and quite herbal (in a savory way -- think caraway) and soon dries down to a sweet minty smell with woody undertones.

Not unpleasant at all. In fact, I rather like it. Thumbs up? Yes, especially after having smelled another herbal concoction -- Skarb -- this past week and having found it much less pleasant. Still, this one is a definite "try it before ya buy it" frag, no question about that.
18 January 2008

Domenico Caraceni by Domenico Caraceni

In all candor, I had expected to fully hate this one. Simply put, it's because most rose-based frags for men don't work well on me (Black Aoud the obvious exception, with a few other Montales in the exception category.)

Iquitos I find wonderful but cloying (on my skin); L'Ombre Dans L'Eau is beautifully constructed but far too green for my taste. I could go on, but you get the general idea.

Caraceni, though, totally took my breath away. The remarkable use of frankincense and tobacco here was/is nothing short of genius, and the rose absolute used was/is anything but cloying. (I grew up in the funeral industry, so trust me when I say that I know how cloying the wrong rose scent can be. There's a vast gulf between embalming fluid rose/memorial wreath rose and Black Aoud rose.)

Stupendous stuff -- I finally understand what all the hooplah is about.
17 January 2008

Moustache by Rochas

This classic really takes a bad rap on this review board, friends.

Imagine, if you will, Dior's Eau Sauvage with lime added to the lemon. Throw in some tangy fruits (an odd but workable addition, trust me) and then a very masculine dry-down of vetiver, tobacco (very slight) and moss.

Moustache is bracing and tasteful. Very good in the longevity department, but not a sillage beast. (At least not on my hide.)

This is a handsome and tailored French fragrance, appropriate for office and casual wear alike.
17 January 2008

Charogne by Etat Libre d'Orange

Yummy!!! A nasty little ylang ylang and leather number that has a vanilla-laden opening with hints of rubber, an opening that's remarkably reminiscent of Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur.

This is a little sex bomb, truly -- one of the very few frags with heavy jasmine that I could ever find myself wearing. (Creed's Royal Delight falls into this camp as well.) The vanilla? It just PURRS on my skin!

A totally unexpected (albeit X rated) pleasure -- it's almost like a scandalous leather-and-latex boutique in Paris exploded and landed on top of a posh florist's shop.
17 January 2008

Fougères Marines by Montale

Stardust it is, with just a nod of the head in GIT's general direction.

Fan of Llewellyn but don't want to pay the price? Snag a bottle of Fougères Marines and spritz away!
16 January 2008

Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

I seldom do this (seldom if ever), but here's where I have to step in and say, "Basically what foetidus just said." Really.

The chocolate/patchouli mixture in Borneo 1834 is very handsome, granted, but the chocolate itself falls short and the patchouli just smells like good quality, uncut patchouli oil. I just kept expecting more from this fragrance, esp. since it's from Lutens' ultra-premium non-export line.

Those who know me know how much I am repulsed by A*men, and it's true that Borneo is a stripped down version thereof. But what's missing (obviously) is that vile burnt tar note that makes A*men so utterly unwearable for me. (Small doses I can take -- witness Black Jeans. Huge doses make me ill, esp. when coupled with tonka.)

The camphor doesn't bother me, but it's not even strong enough to notice -- at least not on my flesh. Same with the honey, and it's something that I usually love. Here (as opposed to Miel de Bois, obviously), it just barely factors into the equation.

I really, really want to love this Lutens frag -- it got me lots of compliments today! (And I AM a frag whore deluxe.) Still, though, I just find it lacking at the end of the day, especially for the exorbitant price it commands.
16 January 2008

Immortelle L'Amour by Ayala Moriel

An immortelle fragrance for those who hated Sables. Really. Very food-y take on the note without the "syrup" effect of Annick Goutal's much loved/much hated rendition on the same theme.

The tea note is prominent, and its tannic quality helps to mute (what would otherwise be) the cloying sweetness of the cinnamon and vanilla.

A comforting, sexy, intimate frag that Ayala should, by all rights, be marketing to men as well as women. GORGEOUS stuff!
16 January 2008

Moss Breches by Tom Ford

Mean green sexy machine! A classic chypre, with a blast of tarragon and sage to open your sinuses at first. From there, it's all about the labdanum, spices (can't quite put my finger on them, though), patchouli and benzoin.

What comes to mind first and foremost for me is the old Givenchy Gentleman -- I get much of that with the patchouli-heavy drydown. Still, this has no civet that I can detect (unlike Gentleman) and a slightly more unisex dry-down.

Gorgeous "dark" green frag, but the price tag (as with the other Tom Fords in this line) is, for me, prohibitive. (A huge thumbs up, though!)
16 January 2008

Steam Aoud by Montale

A very pretty oud-based frag, albeit more subtle than Black Aoud, that powerhouse. Imagine Black Aoud with less rose and more sandalwood. The oud is equally medicinal, yes, but its incredible dry-down is equal to that of the other Montale ouds I've sampled (including BA). The cumin note is a tad off-putting at first (as in Rive Gauche pour Homme and Greyland), but you soon figure out why it was necessary in the first place (i.e., to help cut the sweetness/sharpness of the oud and roses in the opening).
16 January 2008

parfums*PARFUMS Luxe: Champaca by Comme des Garçons

Decadent and lush indeed! Massive amounts of tuberose here, so opponents of white florals had best beware.

To quote the inimitable Vibert, "while wearing Luxe Champaca I feel a bit like a debauched and aging drag queen who's trying just a bit too hard to channel Lauren Bacall." LOLOLOL -- I couldn't have said it better myself!

All that aside, suffice it to say that this one is a) far too feminine for me for everyday wear and b) too expensive for everyday wear, to boot. (But I'm sure going to enjoy the hell out of my sample!)
16 January 2008

Frapin 1270 by Frapin

Where's the French court painter when you need him? This is a decadently Bourbon banquet of brandy soaked fruit, nuts, honey and wine.

The table is groaning as this gorgeous gourmand weighs it down. Before too long, though, the fruit-laden opening slowly winds down and a gentle after dinner glow commences, with vanilla and honey and coffee for all.

The drydown separates this heavenly fragrance into two distinct parts: a) the ebullient gourmand laughing and eating having a good time and b) the sophisticated gastronome smiling shyly after what can only be described as one hell of a feast.

This is the first Frapin frag I've tried to date, and now I can't wait to sample the others.
14 January 2008

Cannabis Santal by Fresh

Bogart pour Homme and A*men, after a night of forbidden passion, produce a gorgeous child. The child is born without A*men's disgusting burnt tar notes -- fortunately, that gene wasn't passed on.

Because the couple had smoked some ganja and eaten some fruit during their first night of connubial bliss, the kid smelled ever so slightly of pot and plums. Roses adorned his cradle.

All was well in Stork Land.
14 January 2008

English Leather by Dana

Warm, woody and masculine stuff, but minus the "gasoline" notes of Knize's leather and the price tags of Tabac Blond and REL. Am I comparing it to those giants? Not really -- only marginally, maybe, as it IS a leather frag. But for the guy seeking a "man's man" frag with excellent sillage and very good longevity? I don't know why I'd hesitate to recommend English Leather.
13 January 2008

Toujours Moi by Dana

Who said there's no such thing as a free lunch? This inexpensive, complex little Oriental is damn close!

Re-bottle it and slap a niche label on it and few would hesitate to pay a much higher price for it.
13 January 2008

Lutèce by Dana

Gorgeous for a bargain frag. Perish the thought? I couldn't disagree more.

I find this one almost a dead ringer for Ombre Rose (another great bargain) -- warm and powdery floral that will never go out of style.
13 January 2008

Création by Ted Lapidus

I don't know if it's the peach or the ylang ylang (likely the former), but something in this brew is too sweet for my tastes.

I love Création's musky, animalic dry-down (must be the civet note), but the opening half-hour to hour can be and often is devastatingly sweet. A thumbs up, but with that proviso in place.
13 January 2008

Oscar de la Renta pour Lui by Oscar de la Renta

Spicy, masculine, sharp Eighties powerhouse -- be careful of this sillage monster.

Just as soon as you think it's "safe to leave the water" after the coniferous/bergamot-laden opening blast, along comes the spicy carnation shark on your tail. Cute little cinnamon sharks circle along, and pretty soon the really big fish (moss, vetiver and incense) devour all.

Potent stuff that makes for one helluva swim.

13 January 2008

Oscar by Oscar de la Renta

Soft powdery floral, slightly dated and unmistakably feminine. Definitely demure -- not a frag for the vamp.

A great buy, too -- this is what happens when old designer frags stick around 30 years. Ugly bottle, though.
13 January 2008

Private Collection - Bois de Copaiba by Parfumerie Generale

A lovely leather, very much along the lines of the much praised Tabac Blond (but for considerably less $, even at niche prices). There's a floral element here, too, that speaks more of Bellodgia than Tabac Blond, even -- is it carnation? I'd love to see the pyramid on this one.

Goes on very sharp and sweet (perhaps overly so) and soon turns a tad soapy, but then (OH!) it dries down to a gorgeous leather. This is one of those frags that's only marginally unisex, though -- it's like Tabac Blond in that a fellow can pull it off, yes, but only if he's got major globes. (And I do.)

Can't believe that there aren't more reviews of this one yet -- maybe I've pounced upon a real sleeper here.
13 January 2008

Navegar by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Foetidus really nailed it -- this is Bois Farine's older brother. I suppose one could add "seafaring" in that description, but the "aquatic" nature of Navegar is truly debatable. There is a green cucumber note here, yes, as well a pepper note for a little "punch." Still, it's all layered over that funny peanut note (what IS that?), with more greens and leather below. Either my nose is terribly unrefined and/or this one's a helluva chameleon.

A big thumbs up for complexity (enigma, even), but longevity COULD be better. Low sillage, IMHO -- this one sits very close to the skin. That's OK, though -- I think that this is a frag best enjoyed in solitude.
13 January 2008

Gucci No. 3 by Gucci

Gorgeous frag -- bone dry and ever so tailored. Can't believe that a) it turns out to have been discontinued and b) I'm the first to post any kind of review.

This is (or should I say was?) one of those frags that could easily cross the gender gap. Pity to hear about its discontinuation.
12 January 2008

Nobile by Gucci

Drakkar Noir and Loewe para Hombre after a night of passionate love-making, their glassy limbs and sprayers all entwined.

An old school Eighties power frag whose cult has plenty of adherents across the board (and in the larger world) for plenty of good reasons. I won't be paying the eBay premium for it anytime soon, no, but can certainly understand why Nobile fans would/do.
12 January 2008

Oceanus by Body Shop

Another one of the very few aquatics I can abide, but still nothing I'll ever clamor for. I smell a lot of bergamot here, so much so that I can certainly understand the "soapy" conclusion drawn by 891.

Really a pretty good frag for the price and (to the best of my knowledge) one of The Body Shop's best sellers for years. (And this time for good reason.)
12 January 2008

David Beckham Instinct by Beckham

Aside from the brief piquancy of the pimiento and the almost as brief sharpness of the star anise, there's nothing here to distinguish this one from so many other "fresh" fougeres on the market.

Beckham should stick to bending it on the ball field. Then again, perhaps this latest perfumery deal of his -- the one that came out in '07 -- will work out better. (Or not.)
12 January 2008

Castile by Penhaligon's

A rose heavy (but not rose dominant) frag for those who generally hate rose heavy frags. No, the emphasis here is a clean and fresh neroli that bursts out of the bottle and puts a smile on your face. This is sunny Spain, soft and warm and romantic -- don't go in expecting Catholic gloom and doom in the Escorial.

n.b.: This one wears very close to the skin and produces relatively low sillage; furthermore, its longevity is lower than that of other Penhaligons frags. Still, a big thumbs up for classic, balanced composition.
11 January 2008

Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon's

Austere? Exactly the adjective I was going to use! Along with Yatagan, Barbier des Isles and Greyland, this is one of those sweet-free, spice-heavy frags that epitomizes masculinity. (No Lutens-esque sugar cones and treacles here!)

Citrusy, dry, coniferous . . . pure stiff upper lip stuff here. Little or no warmth, though -- this frag remains as cool and reserved on the skin as almost anything I can imagine.

Big thumbs up for an English classic.
11 January 2008

Ambre Canelle by Creed

Ambergris and cinnamon together -- yum! This is a rich and old fashioned frag that -- more than any other Creed I can think of -- is definitively a "love it or hate it" number. (And I love it.)

The ambergris is so strong (think Youth Dew) and the whole effect so animalic yet ancient that I really can't effectively describe either in a few words.

The amber, btw, doesn't come in until considerably later in the frag's progression. The cinnamon (canelle) you smell throughout, but more so later on.

Try before you buy. Try before you buy. Try before you buy.
11 January 2008

Cyprès-Musc by Creed

Green and musky and slightly medicinal all at once, with a strong sillage that isn't to be believed from a non-Millesime Creed.

I'm very fond of cypress-heavy frags, but know that not everyone will be as enamored of them. Do yourself a favor and order a sample of this one first.
11 January 2008

"Vintage" Tabaróme by Creed

Not a tobacco lover? Steer clear then, my friend, steer clear.

This is some masculine, tobacco-laden, commanding juice here, and far better than its modern Millesime namesake -- far better.

Definitely a try-before-you-buy kind of frag, though. I can't see but maybe one in ten liking this frag, especially in this age of aquatic hermaphrodites on the frag market.
11 January 2008

Royal Scottish Lavender by Creed

A far better blend of vanilla and lavender than Caron pour un Homme, IMHO. Where Caron's rendition can easily become cloying, RSL remains beautiful and complex throughout its dry-down.

The clove adds just the right amount of spice to balance things out, and the amber and sandalwood in the base notes ensure a warm finish.

Damn near perfect.
11 January 2008

Royal English Leather by Creed

If Knize Ten is all gasoline, Teutonic sweat and raw leather, then REL is all gorgeous tanned leather (saddle quality) and beautiful English florals. Creamy and snobbish and luxurious stuff -- I can easily see how it's weathered two centuries plus.
11 January 2008

Tabaróme Millésime by Creed

Good? Yes. Great? No. I really can't help but like this take on tobacco and ginger, but the original Tabarome is simply so much better. The folks at Creed oughtn't have tried to tame Tabarome -- they should have just made this new one and called it something else.

It's a good frag, yes, but it pales in comparison to the manly British original.
11 January 2008

Impérial Opoponax by Les Néréides

Vibert's posted a top drawer review of this baby below -- I especially like his description of the "sandalwood and vanilla pillow" on which the opoponax rests.

Rich, Byzantine stuff -- the kind of warm and sweet fragrance you can curl up with on a cold winter night. It has a real Eastern incense vibe going on, and also something vaguely gourmand (must be the vanilla).

I for one can't imagine wearing this stuff in warm weather -- it's the olfactory equivalent of winter comfort food.
11 January 2008

New Haarlem by Bond No. 9

I have to agree with Randolph314 on this one, folks. As much as I like New Haarlem, I like Rochas Man much better, esp. for the vast price difference.

Stow the snob appeal and grab for Rochas Man.

I'm going to give this puppy a thumbs up rating, but only out of deference to its almost identical fraternal twin, Rochas Man.
11 January 2008

Ginger Milk by Thymes

A handsome scent in both the frag version and the candle/air freshener versions. Ginger without the sharp edges -- just bright and sparkling and sweet. Unisex? Yes, IMHO. Some guys might have a hard time pulling it off, but only if they're the hardcore, Yatagan/Aramis only types.
11 January 2008

Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Very old fashioned but straightforward take on citrus and vetiver, and (blessedly) free of that MPG "green" house note that so dominates and often ruins many other MPG frags for me.

Very clean, very pure, very unisex, very refreshing.

Not a frag I'll be pining for, no, but one I'll gladly enjoy when I encounter it.
11 January 2008

Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash Ivy by Marc Jacobs

Papery and green, indeed. A really pretty, definitively unisex eau de cologne that makes up in beauty what it lacks in longevity and sillage.

I think that benbenrn has the right idea -- why limit this stuff to flesh wear only? At $40 for 10 oz. bottles at Marshalls, you can certainly afford to use this as linen spray, air freshener, eau de cologne -- whatever you like.

11 January 2008

Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne

A handsome Continental fragrance with top quality ingredients and possibly addictive qualities. (Perhaps the aoud/oudh in the heartnotes?) Whatever it is, I've not been able to stop sniffing my hand all day!

Interesting use of pepper here -- I almost mistook its slight piquancy for cedar at first. As it dries down, though, it mingles with the vetiver, the oudh and the balsam in wonderful harmony. Grassy, spicy, woody all at once.

A definite keeper.

11 January 2008

Ruffles by Oscar de la Renta

Playful without being silly - a bouncy little floral that I'd love to smell again after lo these many years.

I agree with the candy comparison, but it shouldn't be thought of as a gourmand -- just a very bright, very feminine floral. I'd love to know the pyramid on this one.
10 January 2008

Volupté by Oscar de la Renta

Voluptuousness indeed. Again, I'm not usually a heliotrope fan, but it works here -- it's blended in so artfully that it gives a powdery softness to this floral extravagance without doing it what it often does and stealing center stage.

Amazingly good buy, this one.
10 January 2008

Scent Intense by Costume National

Sickeningly sweet hibiscus and jasmine throttling poor amber with all their might.

I've tried desperately to love this frag but cannot, at least not on my own flesh.

I like the amber and am crazy about the tea notes, but they're so obscured by the over-abundance of tropical flowers that it's hardly worth the bother.

Dark? Nay. Cloying? Aye. I'll give this one a thumbs up (believe it or not) just because it IS very cleverly blended and it DOES work so beautifully on others. On Yours Truly, though? I'll pass.
10 January 2008

Globe by Rochas

A bright, fresh floral offering that opens with brilliant greens and dries down to a luscious musky base. This is a kissing cousin to Givenchy's Insense, really, and even more distantly related to Paul Sebastian's Brownstone.

Why Rochas discontinued this I'll never know. I assume it was an interim fragrance -- somewhere between the "big power frags" of the Eighties and the watery wimps of the Nineties.

A pity.
10 January 2008

Givenchy pour Homme Blue Label by Givenchy

Those who are familiar with my tastes in frags will know that I usually deride almost anything labelled an "aquatic." Along with Erolfa, though, this is an aquatic I could love.

I've yet to buy a bottle (or even swap for one); however, I have to admit that I nursed my decant as long as I could. Fresh and clear and almost metallic top notes that (in feeling, if not in composition) put me in mind of Perry Ellis Reserve and also Egoiste Platinum.

An aquatic that (to quote another review, however casually) doesn't suck.
10 January 2008

Monsieur de Givenchy by Givenchy

Crisp, classy, Parisian and formal take on citrus. But OH how deceiving the top notes are! Just below the polished surface lies a sexy creature ready to pounce. If you like YSL pour Homme and Chanel pour Monsieur, you'll love Givenchy Monsieur. If you don't, rest assured that you'll most likely despise it. (I for one am firmly in the former camp.)
10 January 2008

Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy

Hairy chested, grunting testosterone monster all dressed up in patchouli and a $500 cravat. A must have gem for any patchouli lover, yes, but try if you can to get the vintage juice (silver label, cheap looking bottle with silver lid). The new stuff has been tamed down and diluted for the hoi polloi, and (while nice enough) is a pale reflection of the hairy beast its predecessor was. Lots of civet in the old, so civet foes be forewarned.

Easily one of the best juices of the past centuries.
10 January 2008

Armand Basi Homme by Armand Basi

Pleasant vanilla frag along the lines of Le Male and 360 White, with just a nod to Black Code along the way. Cuba Gold also comes to mind.

I bought a bottle (very reasonably) from Thrax and can't say that I regret it one bit. Probably wouldn't go out of my way to get another bottle, no, but fans of Le Male and 360 White really ought to look into this affordable vanilla/tonka frag.
10 January 2008

Duc de Vervins by Houbigant

Drakkar Noir? Perhaps a little, but far more along the lines of Loewe para Hombre and Lacoste -- very crisp, green fragrance with magnificent sillage and great lasting power. Not really a frag for jeans and tennis shoes, perhaps, but a fine choice for suits and ties and even black tie.

I just sampled the new Extreme version -- many thanks to Jock_With_Scents. It's a softer, more complex and slightly more powdery version of the original. It veers even more in the direction of Lacoste pour Homme than does the original, IMHO. It also wears a little closer to the skin and doesn't resemble Drakkar Noir half as much. Am debating a purchase of it, but haven't yet decided at $135.00 a bottle.
10 January 2008

Essential by Lacoste

White bread indeed. Why spend the extra $ for this one when so many good drugstore frags still abound?

Granted, there's nothing offensive here. Come to think of it, there is no here here. Just some pseudo-scientific drivel about "time release technology."
I've got your "time release technology" right here, Lacoste.
10 January 2008

YSL pour Homme Haute Concentration by Yves Saint Laurent

"A sweaty man sucking lemons." How utterly uncharitable! (But how very true.) That said, what's the problem here? I find that succinct statement to be an homage, actually, not an insult.

There ARE dirty herbs here. There IS a slight BO vibe going on. There ARE tons of citrus notes to be had.

And the funny thing? It all works together beautifully to create a real Eighties power frag masterpiece.
10 January 2008

Opus 1870 by Penhaligon's

The only cedar-heavy frag I've ever encountered that can best be described as opulent. This is a rich Oriental, but without the usual heavy florals and sweet vanillas so commonly encountered in that family. Appropriate for both office and formal wear, with very good sillage and marvelous longevity. Probably not the best casual frag in the world; however, that may be just my own judgment that doesn't work for you.

This frag has many detractors; however, I am not among them. While I won't be rushing out to buy a bottle anytime soon, I certainly have to sing its praises.
10 January 2008

Douro / Lords by Penhaligon's

A clean and staid British frag that would be as at home in a Victorian barbershop as in a 21st century boardroom.

Don't go into this one expecting sex appeal, and don't go seeking revolution here, either. This is a classic bergamot and sandalwood concoction -- very old school. If you like most Penhaligons and most Caswell Massey frags (the reformulated Greenbriar being a clear exception), then you'll likely go ga-ga for the stiff upper lippishness of Douro.
10 January 2008

Endymion by Penhaligon's

Creamy, sweet and spicy all at once, very much along the lines of Gucci's Envy and Ricci's Ricci Club. A frag better suited for romance than business, though. Excellent sillage; average longevity.

10 January 2008

Trophée Lancôme by Lancôme

A citrus frag with balls -- period. If you like Eau Sauvage but consider it neutered, try Trophée Lancôme. If you are somewhat fond of Bigarade Concentrée but find it lacking, give TL a shot.

This is bracing, crisp and daring stuff, with sillage for days and massive longevity.

Kudos to Lancôme for having had the common sense to re-introduce this gem onto the market.
10 January 2008

Live Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent

I had expected a carnival blast of lively notes, something very like Jazz on acid. What I got instead was a curious melange of mint and citrus, with more mint thrown in for good measure. And then some more.

All in all, not a good match for me at all, as I'm NOT a fan of mint in most frags. (The "mentholated bay rum" notes I've noted in SMN's Pot Pourri are about as close as I come to liking strong, minty notes in my frags.)

I'm going to give this one a thumbs up, but only with the proviso that it stay away from me. It's lovely on others, I'm sure -- just too much mint for Yours Truly.
10 January 2008

Must de Cartier by Cartier

Enticing. Voluptuous. Decadent. Truly one of Cartier's best (right up there with Baiser, anyway). Not for the timid, though, nor for the woman seeking a pallid little Tommy Girl.

No, this beauty is a full figured French gal who takes lovers and smokes Gauloises in her boudoir after -- this stuff is Catherine Deneuve meets Anais Nin.
10 January 2008

Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

Elegant, spicy Oriental with a bright herbal edge. Still, the L'Essence version (edp, if you will) is better in terms of both longevity and sillage. Be careful, though, with L'Essence if you're not a fan of sweet anise.
10 January 2008

Intimately Beckham Night Men by Beckham

I agree with Vawallpa -- this is remarkably similar to Obsession Night. As he pointed out, though, the longevity's better. Also, the tonka bean is deeper and the longevity better.

To be honest, this one surprised me a little bit with its lush romanticism and its sexy use of tonka. I had expected pure mass market crap and instead ended up sampling something much, much nicer.
10 January 2008

Oyédo by Diptyque

Bizarre take on grapefruit. I really like its crispness, its odd soapy/fruity qualities and its herbal/citrus-y dry-down, really I do. Still, I just can't imagine wearing it. Not many men could pull this one off -- I give kudos to those who can. (And I wear Shalimar.)

09 January 2008

L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Diptyque

A green, fairly bright rose frag that any man can pull off. I don't see it as being at all dark, though, unlike Vibert. No, this is the rose antithesis of #88 and Black Aoud -- it's as clear and fresh and bright as those two are dark and mysterious and somewhat Gothic.

A fascinating frag -- may have to go out and get myself a bottle!
09 January 2008

Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A dirtier, more orange-y cousin of Givenchy's Eau Torride. A handsome frag, and more easily unisex than Eau Torride. Not so much of a "celery" note, either -- that part made me a tad nuts with ET.

Longevity should be better for the price, though.
09 January 2008

Elisabethan Rose by Penhaligon's

In many respects, the English cousin of our American Tea Rose (Perfumer's Workshop).

Elegant, understated, soft and sweet. Somewhat powdery in the dry-down, just as I had expected. Never overpowering or soapy, though.

A superb gift for a young lady.
09 January 2008

Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's

Heady, wonderful stuff -- the stuff that 19th century Orientalist dreams are made of. Warm rose in the middle of all that glorious sandalwood, then a crescendo of amber to tie it all up at the end.

Classic stuff, and (in many ways) the antithesis of Blenheim Bouquet.
09 January 2008

Racquets Formula by Penhaligon's

The_good_life has it pegged -- this is a lovely and expensive English soap. I'm surprised as hell that this fine, soapy chypre came out in only 1989, as it has a distinctly Edwardian feel to it.

Distinctive, crisp, pure class.

Easily the longest lasting (along with Hammam Bouquet) of the Penhaligons frags for men.
09 January 2008

YSL pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

A fine French take on woody notes and citrus. One of the best vetiver-heavy dry-downs out there, to boot.

Very, very old school, yes -- really perfect for those who want a good men's frag sans the "hesperidic accords" and "watery notes" and "ozonic accords" so commonplace among today's weak and synthetic brews.
09 January 2008

Paradise for Men by Alfred Sung

In the same boat as Kenneth Cole Reaction -- bright, fresh, fruity and relatively short-lived. Paradise is sweeter than Reaction, though, and has considerably less sillage.

All in all, not vile stuff -- just nothing earth shattering, either. There's a good reason this stuff is less than $15.00 per lg. bottle at the nearest Burlington Coat Factory.
09 January 2008

Chevignon by Chevignon

What atrac said below -- period.
09 January 2008

Polo Crest by Ralph Lauren

Smoother and dryer than the original "green" Polo, but with the same coniferous notes and unmistakable masculinity. Why RL discontinued this will go down as one of the greatest mysteries in olfactory history, as it's easily one of the house's best.

And yes, everything you've heard about Jacques Bogart's Chevignon is true -- it's a dead ringer for Polo Crest, or at least really damn close.
09 January 2008

Gendarme by Gendarme

Clean, fresh and unbelievably close to the skin. Another well blended, bright and clean office frag that makes a perfect gift for the man who might otherwise eschew frags.

Very good sillage, but don't expect to smell it on yourself -- it's funny that way.
09 January 2008

Mackie (new) by Bob Mackie

I don't know how RuffDawg gets away with wearing this one, as I find it the quintessence of femininity.

Rich and sensual and extremely complex, with overly sweet fruity top notes that quickly die down and open up into a lush floral. Unlike many florals of its type, though, one finds that the tuberose doesn't overpower. Warm and sexy ambery dry-down that's almost powdery.

Far better than Mackie for Men, which (while pretty darned good itself) had a bit too much basil for my tastes.
09 January 2008

Armani Code / Black Code by Giorgio Armani

Peppery opening with anise following -- not usually a