Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Fiorello

Total Reviews: 40

Aventus by Creed

I was mesmerized by the top notes, pleasantly surprised and transported by the mid notes, especially the birch but was completely underwhelmed by the base. The oakmoss, which is the predominant note is just OK and the vanilla completely wrecks whatever uniqueness it had initially. Another potentially great men's fragrance ruined by vanilla.
16th October, 2010

Eau d'Italie by Eau d'Italie

EdI is very unique. It's like a green-silver aura of earthy serenity with dancing, sunny yellow rays that follows you quietly and patiently all day. It needs humidity to blossom. Although the earthy middle notes may be similar to TdH there's no sign of that treasonous flint. While the sillage is not large, EdI remains tenacious and continually effusive. Moderno Italiano.
16th October, 2010

Zeste Mandarine Pamplemousse by Creed

ZMP is on of my favorite summer fragrances. I've tried it in the dead of (arid) winter and it appeared quite different. It seems to really shine in the humidity like another of my fave summer frags, L'Eau de L'Artisan (although nothing like it). It's very difficult to find quality, citrus/floral frags that aren't overtly feminine. This is one of the best. It is more basic than MI, GIT or Erolfa but not necessarily any less interesting in the long run. If you find Creed's signature ambergris basenote appealing then this is one worth sampling. Don't expect to be bowled over but consistently floating on a sunny, happy, natural citrus/floral/ambergris plane.
16th October, 2010
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Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by Guerlain

Pamplelune is deceptively simple, persistent and wonderfully naughty. I was all over its grapefruit and slight floral accord until the vanilla evinced itself about three hours into the drydown. Vanilla is a deal killer for me. Too bad, I really, really loved the opening and heart notes.
13th July, 2008

Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

I too appreciate this vetiver more than Guerlain's or Creed's. The splendid, dry balance between the citrus and vetiver is, as others have stated, the strong and very appealing focal point of Racine. I also agree that other vetiver-dominant, MPG frags are more dimensional like Centaure, Parfum d'Habit and of course Route de Vetiver. None of these are as dry as Racine though. 7/10
04th June, 2008

Baïmé by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

I own several MPGs and have tried Baime several times. Ultimately it is too sweet to be an option as an aromatic for me. I love basil and thyme but prefer them in a dryer milieu. I give it a neutral because of its uniqueness. It's just not for me. 5/10
04th June, 2008

Oltre by Laura Tonatto

Oltre ranks up there with Profumum's Acqua di Sale and Erolfa as one of the highest quality, marine fragrances I have tried. I concur with Foetidus that it is not a cheaply made, synthetic marine. That is my prime directive in choosing one from this category. It has to actually smell like being by the sea, not like being at a mall.

Oltre is beautifully crafted and super salty like Acqua di Sale. I did detect a discordance but found myself reacting to it positively and playfully--much like walking along the beach in the sun and then passing through a shaded area near a tide pool where the darker elements have had time to meld in the on-again, off-again, salty, wet environment--and then walking in the sun again where the negative ions from the waves collide with a humid breeze of pine/myrtle greenness combined with optimistic, serene muguet. I can sympathize with Scentsitivity on the level of the of the muguet, as probably most guys would. Although floral-sweet scents tend to stay true on my skin and I am a floral-loving guy, this came across as being a bit too feminine for me as well. Unlike Erolfa there is no ambergris (or sandalwood) in the base which keeps it cool as others have noted.

In the end I chose Acqua di Sale (I had already owned Erolfa) over Oltre, at more than twice the price, because it had the longest duration and it's the saltiest. True saltiness is what I yearn for most in a marine fragrance. I found Oltre to have average duration and sillage.

If you are at all interested in marine fragrances you should most definitely give Oltre a try--and all the Laura Tonattos.

btw Oltre means Beyond in Italiano.

30th May, 2008

Eau de Hongrie by Fragonard

Eau de Hongrie is one of my top ten. I love natural jasmine as a bona fide, starring note in men's/unisex frags and there aren't too many with such panache. The jasmine here is very natural, fresh and more high-pitched than that of average, indolic, African--especially Egyptian--types. The accord formed with the bergamot is the "grapey" type--an accord I can never get enough of. I have detected this synergistic nuance in many frags, especially Italian ones. Some people relate it in part to classic "barber shop" frags. It can be rendered like bug spray in cheap, synthetic blends or be glorious, mesmerizing and transcendental like it is here. EdH is warm without being sweet, fresh without being ozonic, very sensual while remaining dynamic, unfailing and eternal. Sometimes simplicity is more fascinating than a complex chypre--and when it's done with quality ingredients it will put a smile on your face all day. The price/quality ratio is quite agreeable.
EdH is in a similar class to MPG's Jardin du Nil, L'Artisan's Mure et Musc, Lalique Pour Homme, Byblos Uomo, CdG Rose, etc.
27th May, 2008

No. 89 by Floris

I can appreciate its English sensibilities overall but the nutmeg note is too off-putting for me to wear. Its strongest asset is the unfortunately, short-lived but wonderful, citrus/floral melange. The nutmeg/orris/sandalwood connection is prominent throughout the entire course.

The clearly evident, earthy-dry, floral orris note definitely conjures up images of some kind of institutional stuffiness. No. 89 seems more likely a purchase for a mature person.
21st May, 2008

Lemon Eau de Toilette by Art of Shaving

Lemon is a lemon masterpiece. It supplants my lemon throne from Monsieur Balmain albeit more expensively. Instead of a blast of lemon and middle note herbs, it's a very healthy dose of lemon plus florals on a subtle, deep green base. The base notes are present enough to ground the blend effectively but are by no means a major component of the pyramid. The vetiver note is greener/grassier than the traditional, root (heavier) version. The oakmoss is very restrained as well. The tenacity is quite formidable for a lemon dominant fragrance. Lemon exudes all the class of Acqua di Parma but is cleaner and ultimately more joy-bringing. A caveat, as with all lemon (citrus) dominant frags, overall duration is somewhat limited. If you are a lemon fan it should be the first one you try.
20th May, 2008

L'Eau de Jatamansi by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I find it interestingly natural in a carnation-like manner but way too spicy for my taste. Average tenacity and sillage. The persistent heart accord of cardamom and rose is the main feature on my skin. I wear a lot of florals and find this to be verging on the feminine side of unisex (mixte). The organic quality is definitely evident and appreciable but not enough for me to consider a purchase due to the high spice content.
24th October, 2007

Aventure by Il Profumo

This juice is aptly titled. It is truly an adventure albeit a very short lived one. Musically, I would compare it to Shoegaze; cinematically like Antonioni. It needs time and space to envelop you with large, shifting vibrations. I think those who expect overtly dynamic fragrances will find Aventure too subtle. Those who appreciate less posture will enjoy the solful adventure. Aventure is very natural, slightly sweet, citrus-y, spicy, floral, incens-y, and a warm/cool leather fragrance. My only caveat is that it was not as tenacious as I would have hoped. I have not compared it to the G 11. Definitely sample first.
Aventure dries down, very quickly, to a soft amber/musk accord. I would definitely buy this if it had more tenacious heart and base notes. Too bad, because it is quite unique and spacious.
24th October, 2007

Hei by Alfred Sung

Hei comes across as a standard bergamot/jasmine/cistus with tea. As most have stated, the citrus/floral (nice) aspect dried down way too fast and as a few have stated, the cistus was tenacious as hell. I occasionally get whiffs of the mint/fennel components but on my skin they are nothing compared to the cistus.
Altogether it lacks depth and development. Big yawn.
Concerto by Fragonard is quite similar and much, much more interesting.
24th October, 2007
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Lagerfeld Classic by Lagerfeld

One of the best values available. Warm, amber-y, powdery and classy. Although there's a bit of vanilla, it isn't a cloying vanilla bomb like the ubiquitous amber/vanilla drones of the '00s. I prefer this in colder months. It is strong in character but it's definitely not for the overtly macho. Use sparingly.
06th August, 2007

Clubman by Truefitt & Hill

The notes list sounded like it was right up my alley. And initially it was. Unfortunately it just doesn't hold up well. The citrus is extremely fleeting. The mint is a little too powerful. The floral notes are too weak. The oceanic note is too synthetic, like zztop mentioned. And finally the woody base is overtaken by the kind of soapy-synthetic musk I don't like. Clubman is a great concept that was executed in a weak and cheap-smelling way. If I were to compare it to any other juice, it would be Erolfa, but by no means is it anywhere near Erolfa in quality, blend complexity and tenacity/sillage.
14th June, 2007

Jardin du Nil by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

My holy grail of all time, really. Sexy, earthy/ethereal, masculine floral of the highest order. It's not for everyone, yes. But even if you consider yourself quite masculine, you might find yourself liking this floral. I feel the stinky feet comments are valid, but fortunately it doesn't evolve like that for me. One important caveat, not for the geranium shy.
12th June, 2007

Centaure by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

If you like "substantial" and "meaty", go away now. If you like surreal, mesmerizing, ethereal and intoxicating, read on.
This juice gets me "high". That's my main criterion for scents. This juice does not contain vanilla, nor is it sweet (thank some deity). It is not heavy (even with oak moss), although I find the tenacity to be quite acceptable. Uniqueness for those who live on the fringe of "real" world.
12th June, 2007

Jasmal by Creed

Jasmal is not too sweet or cloying. It's one of the most natural jasmine-centric fragrances I know of. Exotic, sultry,
heady, yes--cheap air freshener? absolutely not. Its strength lies in its ability to raise jasmine to the highest level of beauty. I wish there were a version au masculin!
06th June, 2007

Green Irish Tweed by Creed

If you are obsessed with the highest quality and consider yourself conservative, by all means try it. If you wear Brooks Brothers and go to a club, you must own it. If you have an inkling to widen your olfactory world even just a bit, skip it. There are more interesting Creeds (and other high quality niche houses to explore). Try Imperial, Bois du Portugal, Erolfa, Chevrefeuille Original (my personal favorite Creed underdog plug) or Vintage Tabaróme.
04th June, 2007

Cuir de Russie by Creed

I find the birch note to be absolutely stunning here. I agree that it is unusually paired with the citrus and prone to derision. I am unaware of it being used like this in any other (masculine) fragrance. To some this is the odd, rubber/gasoline accord. Although I can detect this for a short time, it is not a detriment. I find that to be an integral part of its bold character--and it's not created synthetically. CdR is unique among all of the Creeds and other brands. It is not soft, clean or well behaved. It is dynamic, sweeping and not for everyone. The ambergris base tends to fade more rapidly below 50 degrees F / 10 C and above 90 F / 32 C. It is not the most tenacious composition but that is not an issue for such a blast of the country life.
02nd May, 2007

Himalaya by Creed

I really appreciate fragrances that "sparkle"--an effervescent like accord of citrus and a heart note--but this one didn't sparkle for me. I find Imperial, Chevrefeuille Original, Bois de Cedrat, Erolfa and Verveine Narcisse to be much more soulful.
02nd May, 2007

Fleur de Narcisse by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I'm a guy who wears almost exclusively florals. This one didn't work for me. I found it too feminine. Where oh where is my Verveine Narcisse? Although as Quixotiq stated, it would work well as a (expensive) layering option.
06th April, 2007

Soleil de Capri by Montale

Montale's take on the fresh/masculine-floral is interesting to me but none the less benign and dim. The spice notes add to the fullness but seem more like an afterthought than an integral part of the composition.
There are many other fragrances in this category that I find much more appealing, such as any Carthusia, particularly Numero Uno, Imperial by Creed, Eau d'Italie, Eau de Hongrie by Fragonard, Jardin du Nil and Eau pour le Jeune Homme by MPG or Byblos Uomo (original).
26th March, 2007

Concerto by Fragonard

This is a very potent tea fragrance. It's quite a bit like Early Grey Special (Earl Grey with jasmine). I find it to be much more natural than other black tea-focused scents. The Amber base is like a very special down pillow. Great tenacity. Earthy and simultaneously ethereal. Fragonard is an amazing value for natural-centric fragrances.
19th March, 2007

Déclaration Essence by Cartier

I find L'Essence to be a softer, kinder version of Déclaration. The tester at the store listed Ciste as an ingredient which is not listed above. I feel this cistus is what makes the mellowing difference. I appreciate cistus greatly, especially in Eau de Hongrie by Fragonard, but I still prefer the more in-your-space joviality of Déclaration (original).
19th March, 2007

Déclaration by Cartier

This is definitely a try before you buy endeavor. If you like cardamom and artemesia, you will love it. If you like birch and bitter orange you will love it more. These are the accords that make it so wonderful and obviously polarizing. The bergamot and cedar support with sparkling freshness. Unique, elegant, joyful, sexy, radiance with an edge. I prefer this to L'Essence Déclaration which I find to be softer and less enticing though no less exquisite.
19th March, 2007

Verveine Narcisse by Creed

PLEASE bring back Verveine Narcisse! There is now a huge void in my green/floral realm. Pure joie de vivre in a bottle.
19th March, 2007

Fleur du Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

Fleur du Male is all about neroli and I love it. I am particularly keen on florals (and Baudelaire). It was different than what I was expecting. It is not a "white" floral, like jasmine or carnation. There is an earthy, mossy, base accord that is very grounding and expertly extends the potent ethereal/earthy, dualistic character of the neroli. If jasmine sambac is the masculine version of jasmine, then FDM is the masculine version of neroli. The juice is very linear but not problematically so, due to its expansive uniqueness. There is a slightly synthetic note that is somewhat distracting but it seems to make the neroli more tenacious, which in the end is what it's all about. It definitely leans toward the sweet side of the spectrum but not near the vanilla/benzoin end (thank goodness). The sillage is adequate. The overall tenacity is somewhat limited, but not enough to steer me away from this super-sexy, esoteric, modern fragrance marvel. Like a hands-all-over-the-place romp in a flowering orange grove. oh la la!
11th March, 2007

Etra by Etro

This one came off as a smoky/spicy, vanilla mess on me. It was not floral in the least. Not my cup of synthetic tea.
01st March, 2007

Boucheron pour Homme Edition Bleue by Boucheron

The pyramid looks absolutely fantastic. Has anyone seen/tried this jus? It is not listed on the Boucheron site.
07th February, 2007