Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Buzzlepuff

Total Reviews: 555

Musc Encensé by Aedes de Venustas

Musk Encense presents itself as the essence of softness built around the heart note of tonka powder. Cashmeran, amber and incense yield a soft warmth with woods that retains a bit of animal musk growl that feels like the musk from an old leather cloak. There is not quite as much animal as in Parfum d'Empire Musc Tonkin, but Musk Encense is much smoother and more wearable than Ulrich Lang's Aperture - while calling to mind a similarity with these two warm musk scents. This fragrance wears best when lightly applied so it shimmers deep in the background as a hidden mystery, woven into the quantum subtlety of the softest perception.
27th January, 2019

Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange by Hermès

This leather fragrance is very soft, subtle and sensational. So many of these soft suede like leathers fall flat on one note of ambrette or saffron suede, but not this one. Cuir d'Ange is very real with living breathing qualities of warmth and cold darkness that move back and forth within the framework of a soft livable suede leather. Darkness of violet with clear soft iris and sueded ambrette with slight warmth from heliotrope and mild animalic musk. Without question this is one of the finest leather fragrances I've tried in a long time. The elements work together and change throughout the progression for a very high quality leather scent. Close to perfection for JC Ellena and a great addition to the Hernessence series.
14th January, 2019

Hermèssence Brin de Réglisse by Hermès

The opening of Brin de Reglisse is medicinal and very intriguing combination of herbal lavender and black licorice or anise. The combination of these two cooling medicinal aromas is fascinating and has a very clean cooling effect. But "not cool" soon arrives with a waft of orange blossom which corrupts the herbal green lavender into a quaint lavender flower which smells dated and dowdy. Fortunately the fragrance is so short lived that this floral lavender doesn't last long. The opening licorice and lavender is so fresh and original that this is still a thumbs up for me, but the ending is a bit of a disappointment.
14th January, 2019 (last edited: 13th January, 2019)
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Hermèssence Cèdre Sambac by Hermès

Cedre Sambac by Christine Nagel for Hermessence by Hermes is a perfume that arrives with intrigue by exposing an uncommon pairing indolic naphthalene jasmine sambac with a powdery sandalwood / cedar. There is a feral wild elegance from this unlikely combining. Almost otherworldly. This is a daring blend of oriental florals and woods that immediately is a feminine statement, but the audacity and wild blending is intriguing for anyone to wear. Cedre Sambac is a very non Hermessence character from the nose for Hermes, Christine Nagel. I am not sure about this one.
09th January, 2019 (last edited: 14th January, 2019)

Hermèssence Agar Ebène by Hermès

A soft, warm, polite incensey woods. Warm and gentle with no bold exclamations or quick moves. A subtle and quiet powdered incense stick slowly smolders in the background . . . while I sit on the cushion. That's all I get, but sometimes that is all I need. Is this Hermes or is this Unum?
09th January, 2019

Emeraude Agar by Atelier Cologne

Emeraude Agar is one of my favorites from Atelier Cologne. There is a deep masculine "almost leather" at the heart of this fragrance - agar oud followed by cooling guaiac wood. An interesting prelim to the depth of the oud rich leather part is eucalyptus which definitely plays up a green leafy aspect. The black pepper with geranium as well as eucalyptus gives it a peppery dry leafy mint tone. This is a very unusual combination but it works here nicely without getting heavy or muddled. Bergamot and rose are not noticeable but add expansiveness to the mid notes. A side observation is the compatibility of Emeraude Agar with another Atelier perfume - Camelia Intrepide - which was introduced at the same time as Emeraude Agar. Camelia Intrepide is a nutmeg spiced iris and violet toned leather scent that when applied on top of Emeraude Agar creates a very compatible and much more complicated leather masculine which gathers the most interesting parts of both. I happened to have both of these and discovered this happy accident. Anyway, I give Emeraude Agar 8 of 10 stars and am enjoying it in the howl of winter much more than in the simmering summer heat. A very nice scent with solid masculine character - no doubt of that.
03rd January, 2019

Lumière Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Lumière Noire pour Home is bright floral with a burnt spice edge to open up the top notes. The combination of key ingredients yields an all new something unique that quietly distills the bright opening into a cool soft rose patchouli. The floral is hardly recognizable as rose but nonetheless provides a radiant presence that keeps a wide open attitude for the first few hours that is not soft and never sultry. I would not compare this to other rose scents as it doesn't really declare a rose essence until the spice - mugwort? - begins to wear off and a light pure rose essence with a touch of patchouli drifts outward and becomes the central character. What an extravagant and superlative blend by Mr. Francis Kurkdjian. The perfume after an hour or so is distinctive, well mannered, persistently positive with a touch of mystery and private uniqueness - Lumiere Noire.
15th December, 2018

Rodeo by Byredo

Rodeo is a very dry suede leather perfume that has a violet leather tone and a slight grassy base note. The scent is very subtle and far in the background I sometimes smell a bit of animal barnyard scent, this could be a touch of jasmine absolute. It is very dry and austere and fades in and out with no real bold character notes to pin a memory to. This is a cool silent type of horse saddle leather that is a quality leather fragrance all around. I would give it 7.5 of 10 stars. I had to have my own bottle of this.
28th October, 2018

Tyrannosaurus Rex by Zoologist Perfumes

Tyrannosaurus Rex opens with a face slap of hot dry smokey leather. The initial scent is so bold that one spray is probably enough for most people. It settles down, eventually, but my first test spritz lasted all day with strong projection and a very masculine tone. Black Pepper, nutmeg, cade smoke, with patchouli gives the leather of T Rex a prickly abruptness that while bold and very much an outdoorsman in character also brings soft inner depth from sueded osmanthus, expanding rose, quiet of champaca, mellow ylang, and sparkling sandalwood. The leather here reminds me of Mona di Orio's Cuir but not quite as bold and much easier to wear. Built into this prehistoric big fella is a huge personality but also a soft inner depth that makes it very enjoyable to wear.
07th October, 2018

Rose of No Man's Land by Byredo

Fancy name for such a simple but pure rose scent. Rose is such a clean radiating and uplifting aroma and I appreciate this simple presentation of turkish rose. The opening is pushed a bit with a touch of raspberry and pink pepper and the base is a simple dry paper papyrus wood with invisible support from amber. This is a simple but clean rose fragrance that reads very close and similar to the also excellent Rose de Taif by Perris Monte Carlo. Rose of No Mans Land has its own piece of slight perfection.
25th September, 2018

Gris Dior / Gris Montaigne by Christian Dior

A jammy rose coated with a dry sandalwood powder wood base. This is my impression of the smell of Gris Montaigne. The jammy quality of the rose derives from bergamot blended for a tart fruit character of rose blend which is revved up with swirls of patchouli and jasmine. This opening note is quite a lively swoosh of paisley attitude, a brisk wake up burst with roses at the heart and sandalwood/cedar as a backdrop base. The base has the feel and scent of fine kaolin powder used in makeup powder or porcelain clay only with a sandalwood softness. A smooth transition of notes keeps this scent on the minimal side of possibilities within the Rose and Patchouli genre of fragrances. Well done, and nicely buttoned up!

25th September, 2018

Oro 1920 by Bois 1920

The long story of Oro 1920 fragrance is cool dry woods and deep suede leather. The early snippets at the party include ginger, osmanthus, raspberry, beeswax and tobacco that recalls a holiday pipe tobacco blend that is fun and merry. As time wears on the suede leather lasts through all these early spice, berries and tobacco tones and settles into a partnership with guaiac wood (+ suede) for a cool deep woods leather. A very nice lighter suede fragrance.

Although the opening has some uniqueness, the last 2/3 of this fragrance is similar to many other suede fragrances. The question must be asked, why would I buy Oro 1920, if I have - Tuscan Leather, La Yuqawam, Godolphin, Suede de Suede, Colonia Leather, BtV Mayfair, Suedois or Atelier Oud Saphir? Good question! Probably don't need it unless I am a leather fragrance obsessive.
13th September, 2018

Holi Water by Heretic Parfums

Holi Water is a very soft scent that has lofty ambitions of exposing the higher levels of sensory lightness. To employ the softness of champaca flower, resting upon a tonka + vanilla absolute base grounded with soft sandalwood gives to this scent a softness and innocence that almost escapes the ability to detect. The perfume might be missing a contrast with enough presence to yield relevance to all these soft notes. At opening I sniff a slight hint of limes but the softness of champaca and vanilla and the smoothness of a sandalwood base creates an invisibility cloak around this scent. It is heavenly soft, but the Holi Water etherality is almost impossible to smell here in the physical world, for lack of contrasts.
30th August, 2018
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Poltergeist by Heretic Parfums

Poltergeist opens with a medicinal blast of mentholated burnt wood smoke. This is a heavy thick tar aroma that draws from the bitterness of wormwood, birch tar and myrrh. The smoke is cooling and bitter, but also has a warmth from the contrasting notes that is pleasant but hard to reconcile or make sense of so it leaves a spooky other worldly memory of a centuries old barbershop fern aroma that has been burned to a toasted crunchy tar and only ashe remains. The odd pairing and astringency of wormwood-tar-myrrh with the soft fougere of neroli -geranium is indeed a little ghostly. The name Poltergeist is a bit of stretch for me to accept. The net impression is dark smoke of tar that drifts in mid air for quite awhile. There is a similarity with other smokey fragrances such as Arte Profumi Fumoir, Goodsir Bois de Ascese and D.S.& Durga Burning Barbershop - Poltergeist manages to live within the mentholated smoke aura which leads me to a contemplation upon the impermanence of life, the suffering which connects things and the bitter smokey residue that remains for but a few moments after.

I give Poltergeist a reluctant "thumbs up" because I enjoy the concept. However, the scent will be very hard for most people to enjoy because of its dark demeanor.
30th August, 2018

Eaux Delà : Sancti : L'Eau Bénite by Les Liquides Imaginaires

If you combine an oceanic airy eau de cologne with a deep woods resinous amber incense fragrance you would get Sancti: L'Eau Benite. A fragrance contradiction of light freshness and deep wood resins. Weaving top, heart and base notes for an ombre plaid of citrusy musks of eau de cologne merged and layered with conifer woods, frankincense and amber resins. Cool and warm, young and old for wonderfully light and refreshing golden and light green hued incense.
27th August, 2018

Archetipo by Mendittorosa

Archetipo is a medicinal green balsam fir incense. There are notes listed such as moonstone accord, burning flame accord and black amber which apparently add to the depth, background and smoothness of this forest scent, but these blended notes are very difficult to pick out individually. Fir wood absolute along with vetiver and frankincense are dominating aspects. This is green and long standing balsam wood top and heart note with a slowly dwindling labdanum finish. Similar smells to this are Artek Standard from Comme des Garcons and Fir Absolute from Aftelier Perfumes. A terrific naturally tuned fragrance.
27th August, 2018

Irrévérent by Histoires de Parfums

Overall, PdH Irreverent has a taste and feel of a creamy comforting cafe latte drink during the opening hours. A bit of soft creamy sweetness from benzoin and a hint of patchouli for a gourmand nut flavor adds to the coffee which blends nicely with amber and oud wood base. This is a very pleasant fragrance overall - not especially irreverent, but very wearable and all the aromas involved here have good memories attached to them. I really enjoy the fact that the coffee aroma is only the opening and slowly cedes control to the oud and amber base which gets darker and woodier as it wears on. Irreverent is very nice. . . possibly a great fragrance. Recommended!
22nd August, 2018 (last edited: 10th September, 2018)

Outrecuidant by Histoires de Parfums

Outrecuidant which translated roughly means to think beyond. The fragrance is somewhat of a contradiction of contrasting parts and it is really difficult for me to describe the overall character of this fragrance. The opening ginger and cardamom has a slight gourmand feel which is warmed by rose and olibanum in the heart. This leads into patchouli, tobacco and oud which is a dark hay barn, tobacco leaf with oud base that has all of its oud character blended out by these complimentary notes. The scent is a warm complex blend with slight influences from ginger, rose, patchouli, tobacco, oud, and cardamom. I really enjoy all of these notes, but to my nose, this one doesn't come together into a completed unique fragrance. It is a nice blend with little happening to object to but also not much to get excited about either. I would rate Outrecuidant 6 of 10 stars.
22nd August, 2018

Prolixe by Histoires de Parfums

Prolixe derived from Latin - "that which is widely diffused." This Historie de Perfums fragrance is built to a similar structure as Creed Aventus with an opening of grapefruit and pineapple that leads to a soft patchouli and leather base. Prolixe is unlike Aventus by having much more subtlety and softness in the dry down with more character in the opening notes. Cassis adds an interesting leverage point between the tart grapefruit and soft pineapple in the opening. Saffron, cardamom, patchouli and leather yields a suede, cool and soft dry down. The overall tone is mysterious and soft suede. The only note I can pick out that stands on its own is patchouli in the cool base. I like this scent quite a bit. Similar fragrances in character and feel to Prolixe are Aventus, which is greener and Boadicea the Victorious Imperial which is a little heavier and more complex but has a similar opening as well as patchouli leather base. I like Prolixe as a fragrance quite a bit. It is a nice one that I would rate 8 of 10 stars for fragrance.
22nd August, 2018

Erawan by Parfums Dusita

This scent is a very natural and simple but inviting green and soft floral aroma - very pleasant - so I give it a thumbs up. Warm hay, bolstered with sharp but natural greens that hang onto a cloud of muguet. I can understand the hesitant reviewers for Erawan because it may be the least outstanding fragrance that Dusita has launched to date. The lightly narcotic buoyant sweetness from muguet is reinforced by dry hay notes also warmed up with vanilla in the base. A little too much sweetness and light for my taste, but if you like subtle and warming lily of the valley scent that ultimately merges with natural green vetiver, clary sage and cedar then you will enjoy Erawan. It is not brilliant, but also not ever bad.
22nd August, 2018

Camélia Intrépide by Atelier Cologne

The opening is a buttery lemon cookie of bergamot, rose, iris and soft camelia sprinkled with a touch of nutmeg. This warm soft opening bite is layered over a dry suede leather and amber base. The overall effect here is a soft leather scent that gets drier and more comfortable as it wears on. This is a purely unisex neutral dry leathery suede with a slight warm floral surface note. The scent is in the same general range of leathers such as Hermes Cuir d'Ange and Parfumerie Generale Suede Osmanthus. I give it medium high marks for fragrance artistry - Jerome Epinettte seldom disappoints! My primary complaint is the marketing image disguise as floral - It's a leather scent. Nice one at that.
05th August, 2018

2022 Generation Homme by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

This is one of the few fragrances I've tried that I just don't comprehend. I don't understand the aesthetic here - I am trying. I have heard others champion this scent as a bold creative representation of new Arabic taste. But for me, it is too intense and maybe too sublime. Possibly I just don't understand this expression. Is it too new? It has the tone of a high pitched chant or mantra heard from a distance as it is spiraling ever inward on its mystic journey. A mandala of scent vibrating in an ever increasing focus on yuzu, blackcurrant, saffron, anchored by soft amber - this combination creates an acidic dry tartness which begins high ptched and slowly descends on a spiral path leading to more of the same experience. Very one pointed.

All of the SHL fragrances have elements of cultural depth, excellent ingredients and unique combinations which create sublime and mystical wonder. I have missed the sublime and mystical aspect of 2022 Generation Home. I have five SHL scents in my collection now - I am a big fan this work - but this one misses the mark for me.
24th July, 2018 (last edited: 28th July, 2018)

Incense Royale by Sultan Pasha

This is a wonderfully complete incense aroma. Well blended and smoothe with few inconsistencies. The Cambodian oud is warm, noticeable and delicately enhanced by cedar wood, copaibha, spikenard resins and warmed andnsolified with opoponax, vanilla, and labdanum an appropriate amber base to this warm incense blend. Overall the feel of Incense Royale is warm incense with surprising depth and presence. Very nice. As incense goes I rate this one 7/10.
21st July, 2018 (last edited: 11th September, 2018)

Pure Incense by Sultan Pasha

This incense is similar to Norma Kamali Incense is the opinion of the maker. My Impression: A mild well balanced incense, that is milder and lighter than Norma Kamali, but as good maybe better. incense. Slight resinous wooded peaks rise up over a mellow mild toned frankincense and labdanum core. The copal lightens the incense aroma a bit here. A pleasant incense that has a raw resinous slightly smokiness. Like most oils this fragrance is very light in projection. Although this is a good incense it does not show the artistry and creative use of materials that some of the other Sultan Pasha blends display. I would rate it 5 / 10 stars as this a pretty average fragrance.
21st July, 2018 (last edited: 11th September, 2018)

Thebes G1 by Sultan Pasha

This finely blended oil is the scent of wisdom and time. Dry wood, dust and mixed grasses, old leather and human skin are details of Thebes G1. I would summarize the scent as a dusty dry leather musk. The dryness has tones of old hay and earthy vetiver. The leather smells of old skin, well worn hides, then the vetiver and hay scent in the background for a reminiscence of Muscs Koublai Khan only lighter, drier. The heart notes reveal the musk that is one of the best smelling musks I have worn. Lighter than MKK while rose adds a slight radiance to the decaying dryness of old leather - uplifting from the rare rose oil. For me, this is easily one of the best leather / musk fragrances ever. Rated: 9/10.
21st July, 2018 (last edited: 11th September, 2018)

Âme Sombre G1 by Sultan Pasha

The opening rose otto with jagged peaks of saffron takes off and soars. The radiance and lightness of rose otto with the sharp edge that saffron imparts is a striking opening. A light undercurrent of frankincense adds thickness to the rose scent, jasmin adds to the lyrical lightness in the heart. All of this dancing song of rose and saffron is underwritten by very dry negative space of woods with labdanum, hyrax, tobacco and vanilla that is very soft and dry as to almost escape notice during the first hours, but later this soft mellow base takes center stage and becomes the scent with the rose saffron still in background as a distant memory. This is a very fine, composed evolving perfume with a nice balance of opposing directions that begins sharply with soaring rose and soon becomes a comfortable nest of dry musky leaf and woods. Rating: 8.5/10.
21st July, 2018 (last edited: 11th September, 2018)

Nankun Kodō by Sultan Pasha

The overall impression reminds of japanese incense with an addition of dense spice for a spice woods scent to my nose. Cypress woods enhanced by patchouli and slightest oud are the grounding base. Sueded texture from Ambrette and Musk (Ambretolide) rest on top of the woods, while the spice blend adds a raw, grainy spice bin aroma that floats on top of the wood base and never fully merges with the woods. Spices of fenugreek, cumin, star anise, cardamom, clove, allspice mingle in the mixed blend. A characteristic of viscosity of oil as a carrier is the unwillingness to blend and merge all parts easily. So, when the nose leans in to smell Nankun Kodo, I smell the spices as if they were sprinkled on top of the wood resin oils. Lacks seamless absorption of the parts, but like japanese incense this has that sharp resinous pitch that is very nice. The longevity is a few hours if applied thinly with one swipe, longer if applied with two swipes. Rated - 7/10.
21st July, 2018

First Instinct by Abercrombie & Fitch

First Instinct is a summer appropriate, fresh fragrance that opens with a contrasting synthetic accord of tart citrus against a sweet powder musk accord. The sweetness reveals a slight watermelon aroma and the tart citrus connects to a bitter "violet" accord which gets buried in a base of soft musk and ambroxan. There are no natural aromas here in First Instinct - nothing in this scent has the ease and life giving aroma of an extract from any natural source, but the synthetic elements are nicely blended into an innocent and happy young scented fragrance. First Instinct smells really good from several feet away and is a more or less perfect summertime fragrance. Up close the synthetic nature has a sharpness that is not very pleasant. The projection and strength of the fragrance dies down quickly and loses all of the brashness of its opening flurry. The scent is a nice, easy to enjoy, fun fragrance that smells like a heavily sugared tart citrus and melon carbonated beverage that was converted to perfume. Not bad. I would rate it 6 of 10 stars.
13th June, 2018 (last edited: 14th June, 2018)

CH Men Privé by Carolina Herrera

This scent projects nicely with a smooth, soft lavender based traditional aroma. There is a pure sweetness and spice that reminds me of cinnamon sugar cookies at the opening. This sweet spiced accord has some slight whiskey leather complexity on its way to an herbal lavender and thyme toned tonka soft powder base. CH Men Prive is a well put together fragrance that will pair nicely with a suit and tie. Rated 7.5 of 10 stars.
13th June, 2018

Ultra Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

My sales girl showed me this scent and described it as "Very Raspberry". The dry cinnamon plus a bit of rose or geranium layered into the sweet powdery musky Kurkdjian base note results in a light raspberry floral spice to this scent. The smell is sunny, uplifting, with some powerful soft sweet powder at its core. Ultra Male is anything but a masculine scent to my nose. A teenage girl crush, maybe but is this "ultra male"? I don't think so. It is a nice perfume, but definitely not one for me.
31st May, 2018