Reviews by Buzzlepuff

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    Armani Privé Rose d'Arabie by Giorgio Armani

    The saffron at the opening of Rose d'Arabie gives a sharp spice edge to a full scented damask rose that is so sweet I wonder if there isn't berry added. The rose is made mystical with the deep metallic vibe of oud while the amber in the base tilts the entire tone to a masculine warm comfy scent. The total of the notes makes a great fragrance, especially if sprayed in light coverage. Those notes: saffron, rose, oud/patchouli, amber make up this spiced rose oud fragrance. Of the rose oud fragrances I've tried I believe this one to be the most masculine of the group because of the golden amber base, while the saffron rose oud combination give it a spicey Arabic tone.

    Oud Silk Mood by MFK is similar but is a more high toned rose with no saffron and papyrus instead of patchouli to augment the oud. Ex Idolo 33 varies from Rose d'Arabie by the absence of saffron and the warmth of heliotrope added to the rose. Rose d'Arbie is one of several from Armani that I consider to be very worthy artistic examples modern perfumery. Along with Bois d'Encens, Myrrhe Imperial, Oud Royal Rose d'Arabie is a great fragrance. I would rate all of them in the 7-8 out of 10. Very good things to smell and all quite unusual.

    10th May, 2014


    HYLNDS - Pale Grey Mountain, Black Lake by D.S. & Durga

    'Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake' is the name of this D.S. Durga fragrance in their Hylnds series that sets to recreate the atmosphere and tone of the Northern European Celtic people and the north country environment. They do indeed remind me of the landscapes around the Baltic and also Scotland. Ingredients such as Fog-on-Stone, Water Pepper, Chilled Water, Coastal Air along with more grounded things like Bramble, Marsh Violet, purslane, Lichen are the reasons that this perfume smells remarkably like a morning fog in the air at the campsite when you first poke your head out of your sleeping bag. This fragrance takes me right back to my outdoor camping trips. The notes smell cool, wet but full of vitality and sparkling air in shaded dew. I like the alive naturalness and uncertain misty damp air quality. This series (Hylnds) is kind of pricey but I am thrilled with the other two I've tried (Ilse Ryder, Bitter Rose/Broken Spear) and with Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake - all are very bottle worthy.

    07 May, 2014


    Sahara Noir by Tom Ford

    Sahar Noir is black amber anchoring a potion with lots of character. The amber is influenced with doses of frankincense, leather, tobacco, agarwood and beeswax for an experienced darkness that lasts and doesn't back down quickly or easily. Framed by some citrus and slight florals, but these background modifiers can not be identified easily and it is just fine for them to disappear into the atmosphere of Sahara Noir. I like the combination of darkness and light revealed in this Tom Ford beauty. Despite the marketing push towards women, Sahara Noir is a masculine, but with enough charisma and charm to smell great on either sex willing to brave the Sahara in the dark.

    05 May, 2014


    Musc by Bruno Acampora

    There is a strange attraction to musk and the title Musk denotes somewhat of a mystery. What is musk, really? Originally musk was taken from the Musk Deer which unfortunately was obtained from the testes of the animal and then diluted considerably to get to a pleasant fixative perfume ingredient. Today synthetic musks have replaced the animalic musks but they still have that undefinable alluring fuzzy sweaty skin scented, sexiness to them that elicites such an allure and hard to understand attraction.

    The musk part of Bruno's Musk smells to me like a babies skin. The other notes added to this Musk are: Rose, Violet, Vanilla, Cloves, Amber, Sandalwood. All of these are used very sparingly and the subtlety of this musk represents astounding restraint in use of defining elements allowing the musk to stay in the center stage. At times I smell some slight rose and I can notice where violet might fit in but really don't smell those notes at all most of the time. The whole is its own subtle but magnetic attraction musk and I find it very nice to wear.

    The only other musk that I think has some similarity is By Killian Musk Oud. However, Musk Oud is stronger by a large margin in the use of oud and rose but the musk part has some similarities to Bruno Acampora Musk. Mixing very well with personal chemistry, this musk is neutral, natural and Nice!

    05 May, 2014


    Nero by Bruno Acampora

    Nero from Bruno Acampora is a Tuscan themed interwoven blend of ambered woods and other traditional masculine essential oil essences. Nero, being an oil based fragrance needs a good swipe of the oil in order to activate the aroma which projects less but has more intensity due to its oil base which slows the explosion of aroma into a smolder. The well balanced harmonics of the ingredients yields a warm glow, almost a pearlescent dome of honed translucent but radiant spice, amber, patchouli, saffron, musk and cedar.

    Named for darkness, Nero, isn't really that dark in smell. When I think of black for a fragrance, especially an oil I expect to find coffee, cocoa, birch tar, maybe anise any of which in combination with patchouli or an animalic woudl give a very dark effect. But none of that here. The notes as listed are pretty close to what I smell as the scent unfolds which are: Citrus, saffron, cedar, patchouli, sandalwood, amber, light musk. The musk is slightly powdery at first sniff, which reminds me of tonka or benzoin mixed with a light musk. The saffron, cedar and patchouli is noticeable also and throughout the development. This is followed by the ambered musk and soft sandalwood which is almost invisible and more for back up. This is a very pleasant smelling 4 or 5 part chord of odors made of saffron / cedar / patchouli / amber / musk. At times I think I smell hints of lavender, anise or other uplifting herbs but its a slight subtlety if there at all. The parts merge into a melange accord that is very warm and nice to smell. There is an illusion of leather from the scintillating polish of the notes, without leather being really a part of it.

    I can think of no other fragrances that are similar to this. However, this scent is very similar to the dry down or base notes of the two Aramis fragrances from the 80's Devin and Tuscany. The base notes of these would end with beautiful combination of cedar, amber, musk, patchouli and this combination is noticeable here. Nero is a simpler blend, and not as dense as these blends from yesterday, but there are similarities in style.

    Nero is pleasant, not striking or bold, but is a solid medium toned masculine oil blend fragrance. If I were rating it I would give it a 7 of 10 - personal preferences. The fragrance is overpriced in my opinion, at $200 for 10ml. but what price is appropriate if it's the perfect match for you?

    04 May, 2014


    Iridium by Tom Daxon

    Cool crisp and dry. I really get the influence of carrot seed oil here with its earthy, cool dirt aroma. All of the notes have a cool side to them and this is reinforced and amplified off of each other to positive effect. I notice the cedarwood and iso e super definitely. A slight bit of greenness is there too. This is a very useful fragrance. It is not a masterpiece, but very enjoyable to wear, and is cleansing in a quiet way. 6 / 10

    27 April, 2014


    Cologne Absolute by Tom Daxon

    This fragrance is well named. Many of the notes are traditional eau de cologne participants, but the intensity of this highly concentrated cologne absolute allows the segments of the harmony to really stand out. Sort of like a jazz combo with all players straining at full tilt. I notice particularly the scent of tarragon, violet leaf, light patchouli which are underwritten by the green smoothe Givescone. Initially I didn't like this fragrance because it was so obviously a traditional cologne take off. However, I enjoy it more every time I wear it and like the biting herbal greens that work every bit as well as Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet, for instance.

    Thumbs up for Cologne Absolute. I would rate it 6.5 / 10.

    27 April, 2014


    Sand Aoud by Mancera

    The opening and middle notes of Sand Aoud radiates with pleasure. This is one of the most wonderful fragrances, especially during the opening phases, that I've had the pleasure of wearing. The black currant first whiff is the intro to a chord of scent that includes some nicely blended spices with rose, saffron, and patchouli that balances about equally with the house agarwood scent. The oud aroma is noticeable from the the first spray, but it is blended with all the things that blend well with agarwood to lighten and make it very charming civilized. The oud smell is so civilized that some might not think its there, but this perfume illustrates why generations of perfumers always created their attars in a base of sandalwood. Yes sandalwood is the underlying scent that I smell here. I have no doubt that there is probably no sandalwood here, but all of the scents that blend to make Sand Aoud recreate aspects of thick deep sandalwood smell mixed that becomes a base for a woody oud. I am guessing the name Sand Aoud was inspired by the similarity to oud sandalwood attars of days gone by when rich sandalwood oils were always used for the receptive base oil for all of the other outgoing notes. The illusion of sandalwood is made here with the spices+patchouli+rose+vanilla+white musk.

    The notes listed are: black currant, spices, rose, saffron, incense, patchouli, patchouli, agarwood, vanilla, white musk. My guess is the spices are a blending of cinnamon, cumin, bay, ginger but nicely disguised into a pleasant warmth. For the first 4 hours or so I really only smell the spice/wood combination + agarwood. It does smell light, slightly warm, but not really sweet. After 5 or 6 hours the vanilla starts to take over and this smells more like an amber fragrance. The black currant serves to give the opening spices a balsamic roundness, but neither the black currant nor the rose stand out as a dominant characterl. They all blend in to the Sand Aoud personality.

    My only complaint I have about this beautiful fragrance is that long after application it ends up as a sweet vanilla amber woods - someone mentioned Halston Man Amber and I get that comparison. It ends up too sweet at the end. This doesn't happen until all the opening charm and subtlety of oud and saffron wears completely out which does take a long time. But, at the end its run the smell is kind of sweet and shallow. But that is a minor complaint considering how great it smells during its mature phase. One of the best from Mancera, in my opinion.

    11th March, 2014


    Luce by Meo Fusciuni

    The leather, cedar, birch and tobacco of Luce all blend together into a softness that smells mostly of mild tobacco to me. The dry leaves and leather scent is quickly overtaken by the warm and persistently sweet amber, benzoin and vanilla aspect. These top notes are so receptive and shy dry that I hesitate to call them top notes at all as the boldness of the amber tones presents first with the leather/tobacco following close behind becoming the base. There are no topnotes in this one. This is an absolutely beautiful masculine fragrance. When I think of the term "warm fuzzies" this fragrance is what I would imagine. I always try to find comparable fumes when I smell a fragrance to put them into some context of what I already am familiar with, and Luce is very close to, but not quite as complex as Pohadka by Ys Uzac. After the dust settles with Luce it is a very tobacco/leather amber perfume. I am not a big fan of sweet oriental fragrances, but this is how I like my amber - modulated by woods and leaves. Its not too sweet and oozes warmth and comfort. I would recommend to anyone. It has a quiet uplifting strength to it.

    09 March, 2014 (Last Edited: 10th March, 2014)


    Notturno by Meo Fusciuni

    What an unusual fragrance this is. First of all it doesn't smell dark or of blackness or bold tarry masculine notes, or leather or incense of some sort which is what I thought by the name. Notturno does smell like the damp, quickly declining cool night air smells you might encounter as you walk through a moonlit garden that is retiring quickly away from the warmth of the daylight. This is the smell of night air, that comes alive in the shadows of moon and starlight after most reasonable people are asleep.

    The notes as listed by the company are: Rum accord, Pineapple, Ink, Leather accord, Clove, Birch leaves, Amber, Musk, Incense, Cedarwood. The opening is well described as rum, pinneapple and ink because if I hadn't read this I would have thought it was some incredibly mixed up chemical cleanrer of some type. In a way the opening has similar contrasts to the Byredo fragrance M/Mink which I am very familiar with. A very sharp dark ink scent that lays upon a pleasant cool verdant woods is a quick summary of it.

    The cool birch cedar base reminds me of Fueguia 1833's Pulperia fragrance. In fact this scent smells similar to that one except for the inky opening, which I am appreciating now very much. The rum aspect of the opening disappears quickly and leaves the honesty of this black ink scent drawn upon glossy clay coated pure white paper. Expensive paper that smells cool and chalky, if you held it up to your nose. The combination of birch, incense and cedar is a very clean base note against the dry cleanliness of the inky top nootes. This combination is very relaxing and with a little prompting from the name Notturno, I am relaxed as a midnight stroll under the stars.

    When I first sniffed the scent I didn't like the bitter contrasts, but as it wears on it is a very pleasant and relaxing fragrance. The contrasts start to disappear and only cool pleasantness remains. It is certainly unusual and I like this uniqueness which might be a perfect spring natural fragrance, if it weren't so costly!

    09 March, 2014


    1# Nota di Viaggio - Rites de Passage by Meo Fusciuni

    Rites d' Passage is a very pleasant scent that reminds me of a barbershop, but located in a part of the old world. There is a medicinal, clean, eye opening traditional and soapy kind of smell a wet brush soap cake might have. The influence of pepper is very noticeable from opening through to the end, as it blends with the the green woody aromatic notes to follow. This pepper over a respectable soap scent of geranium/vetiver/sandalwood/patchouli is very reminiscent of Lorenzo Villoresi's ground breaking traditional men's scent Piper Nigrum. Nota di Viaggio is not as bold a pepper note as in the opening of Piper Nigrum and the base is not quite as sweet due to the presence of some frankincense. But the structure and theme of the two have similarities of sentiment. This fragrance is very nice to smell although it is traditional and uplifting but it doesn't plow new ground so to speak. I would enjoy wearing it, but its hard to give it a hearty endorsement.

    09 March, 2014


    3# Nota Di Viaggio - Ciavuru d'Amuri by Meo Fusciuni

    I can not add to the very accurate description of the unfolding of the notes of this fragrance by Darvant. The fragrances smells of green fig, which is quickly blended with a lyrically swirling jasmine fragrance. Its a floral jasmine with no indoles to speak of and the fig gives the floral elevating notes a green cast. I like this combination of fig and jasmine as it removes the fig odor quickly which can become an irritating note. The fig and jasmine combination becomes dusty and classical smelling by the influence of frankincense. It is a nice fragrance, but there are so many good fig fragrances out there, and while this one is nice to smell, it is not better nor is it an improvement on the vast theme of fig fragrances available, in my opinion. It is OK , not much more and then . . . it goes away. Thumbs down from me.

    09 March, 2014


    2# Nota di Viaggio - Shukran... by Meo Fusciuni

    If you are lover of mint in fragrances this mint note is very bold and kind of refreshing. When I put it on I immediately thought of Heely's Menthe Fraiche for just a bit. What follows is a green lemony very common spring scent backed up by what smells to me like light Virginia tobacco leaf. This is a fairly simple combination of mint, verbena and tobacco and it delivers on its promises with these notes. There is not too much to get excited about with this fragrance but it does smell very nice, even if its not that incredibly special of a fragrance. For anyone who is a heavy smoker, like someone in my family regrettably is, and you want to subordinate and ameliorate the strong odor of tobacco on yourself, this might be a great choice.

    09 March, 2014


    Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

    The notes, listed for "Like This" are: mandarin, ginger, pumpkin, Immortelle, neroli, rose, vetiver, heliotrope, musks. The fragrance smells just like all these warm and skin friendly aromas, but it takes a little walk down a pathway to develop from one thing and then to the next. At first I am put off by the the warm smell of cosmetics although I don't see iris in the notes list I thought I smelled a lipstick iris scent at first. Then some spices of ginger pumpkin waft forward. Quickly though these spices and transparent warm florals seem to blend into the skin with a warm skin smell that reminds me of osmanthus flower - don't see that one either. At the end of it all is a warm very civilized clean skin smell that if I don't enjoy wearing myself I would love to smell on the lady in my life. Its nice Like This.

    20th February, 2014


    Kumkat Wood by Mancera

    I like this fragrance. It is a soft woods that never feels heavy and dances with light lively tones - it is refreshing woods scent. Imagine kumquat, a tart citrus, blended with a light sandalwood spice and you get the idea of this one. Opens with a tart green citrus wrapped in a light white floral. However; the light dry spices coupled with mellow light woods smoothes out all the sharp edges. Within an hour the "kumkat" tart part of the scent is totally subdued and merged into the soft spice woods. Nice one.

    19 February, 2014


    1996 : Inez & Vinoodh by Byredo

    Another in a series of mysterious fragrances from Byredo that smells of warm leather but fades in and out of a black amber fog made dense with cold violet and fuzzy iris. "This is what someone in the uber-hip Swedish fashion/art world must smell like", I say to myself. It's a Lisbeth Salander type - Girl with Dragon Tattoo dressed for the red carpet - just left her BMW bike with the valet. Though it doesn't smell like Black Saffron or Accord Oud, this Byredo has some similar deceptive qualities that combine harsh natural elements with very civil warmth. The inspiration is a candy sweet innocent doll faced photo artwork by Inez & Vinoodh that is the starting point for the perfumers inspiration. This is an intriguing scent, that I like but will probably never wear as it doesn't really match any of my images of myself.

    The opening notes are a slight breeze of juniper berry and black pepper but all I get is fresh mountain air that rushes in with the amber scented slightly raspy leather. In fact, to me the first few hours of the scent is all scratchy, black amber warmth that is throttled by vanilla. The rough textured aspects to the warm base are from influence of violet and patchouli. The the first hour or two it smells a little too sweet for me as I normally dislike strong amber with even more vanilla. But as the sweetness slowly winds down I get the leather aspect which has a wildness and sharpness about it as a balance to the sweet notes. The longer it goes, the more the sweetness dies down into a warm softness that is easily masculine and feminine at the same time. Smells best sprayed lightly as a skin scent so the vanilla doesn't shout.

    I give this fragrance a thumbs up for its artistic beauty and originality - it is pushing the boundaries. However, on a personal level it gets a neutral rating since the style of this scent is a little too sophisticated for me.

    15 January, 2014


    Thirty-three by Ex Idolo

    At first I smell oud and an orange rose warmth. This is rose warmed with a touch of orange as is found in the early blendings of Amouage Hommage. Nice! I thought what a beautiful amber scent, at first, but it is heliotrope that adds a caramel warmth. I guess Thirty Three is predominantly a rose scent and it does smell fresh, clean, slightly oudish and natural rose. It is interesting the twists and turns that perfumers go through to capture the incredible lift and healing essence of rose oil and still keeping it masculine and rugged enough for everyday wear. The oud gives it a hollow wood aspect noticeable throughout, but it never looses its rose warm essence. Next to Silk Mood Oud this is the finest rose masculine fragrance I've tried in a long time.

    15 January, 2014


    Explosions d'Emotions : Déliria by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Deleria smells like cotton candy while it!s being made and apples slightly tart, this is the initial impression. And then I notice a complete dryness with a hint of metallic vaporous quality. Unflavored sweetness - cotton candy - balanced by extreme dry tanginess. These opposites destroy the flourishes first smelled and leave a vacuum in the scented space, a hollow. This is a very attractive fragrance! Must be laws of chemical physics at work for the opposites to reflect against each other and cancelling their excesses in the creation of a thick neutral presence - a delirium.

    04 January, 2014 (Last Edited: 29 January, 2014)


    Bespoke : Tangeri by Keiko Mecheri

    Every listed note of Tangeri is sueded and soft. There is cooling balsam, dry iris, rigidity of cardamom, deepness of oud, softness of suede, and dryness of moss. The result is a very unique complex mixture of dryness and quiet quality. 20 shades of grey soft suede leather. I wish it had more defining character but it is a great background of context. Unfortunately the scent never comes together to be more than the sum of its mixed parts. 6 of 10 on the buzz sniff meter.

    24 November, 2013 (Last Edited: 25 November, 2013)


    Cuir Tabac by David Jourquin

    Cuir Tabac is a serious leather fragrance. The bold patchouli nature of the scent lets you know right up front, "Hey dude - were not fooling around in here." This is leather burned in with patchouli darkness. The patchouli adds a dark licorice bite, that is an uncompromising crack of the whip with dark resin and tar. You know this is not going to go away soon, Cuir Tabac will tattoo your scent memory so you won't forget it. I like that strong pop in a leather scent - but not too strong. This is a fragrance that will wear onto and into your natural body smell, blending with each the individual aroma as a necessary step for the scent to work.

    At first sniff the most immediately similar perfume is LeLabo's Patchouli 24 which is a very dark tar patchouli that never emerges from its darkness. Cuir Tabac is more civilized with (1) a hint of leather and, (2) a touch of tobacco, and in the background (3) a waft of lavender. Patchouli is so central to this "leather" perfume that it might have been called Patchouli rather than leather and I would have no objection to a name change as I am a Patchouli fan. I like this fragrance a lot. In time it evolves some sweetness and patina. 8 of 10 on the BuzzleMeter index.

    24 November, 2013


    Les Zazous by Keiko Mecheri

    Les Zazous fragrance is spice, woods, tobacco, warm and friendly in nature. "Les Zazous" were the original - live for today and the night - subculture of 1940's Europe who were devoted to partying, dance, loose clothing etc. They put it all out there. The fragrance is well named because it is a fun loving party in a bottle. The jazzy, lively mix of spices, flowers, tobacco and incense are fueled by lavender from the outset. The tone is low, warm, mellow and baritone pleasantness. Has a warm sweetness in the drydown, which wouldn't have been my first choice, but works well here. This is one of those big masculine scents that is great for women to highlight the contrast and very attractive on any man who might need encouragement to live a little.

    24 November, 2013


    Bespoke : Cuir Fauve by Keiko Mecheri

    Leather fragrances must be a challenge to create, because so many are attempted and there are so very few excellent ones. They can be too raw, too dry, too smokey, or too strong. This is one of the good ones here.

    I think of dark nicely polished smooth leather when I smell Cuir Fauve. There is a dryness to this leather that approaches but doesn't go all the way to smoke. Just enough sweet mellow amber and a touch of tobacco for character. I like the fact that there are no odd spices, no animalics or no muskiness, no petrochemical smells - just a very finely made straight forward leather fragrance that is easy to wear. Cuir Fauve is my favorite of the Bespoke series from Keiko Mecheri. 9 of 10 stars on the Buzzlemeter.

    24 November, 2013


    Bespoke : Canyon Dreams by Keiko Mecheri

    The bergamot and madarine explode like canyon land sunsets against the rusty rock formations . . . This is what I was hoping for and is what Canyon Dreams smells like when it is applied, more or less. The woods ( Synthetic Agarwood, patchouli, sandalwood) add a honed finish to the surface of this canyon of scent that reminds me of a pleasant incense powder blend or a fine natural wood product of some sort. The bright fruity opening stays as a warm counterpoint to the cool woods for a sunny disposition to an otherwise mysterious and deep thinking wood mood. I like this fragrance enough to just barely grant it a thumbs up! Just not way up. I would score it with marks of 7 out of 10 on the buzzle perfect scent index.

    24 November, 2013


    Bespoke : Ambre Mirabilis by Keiko Mecheri

    At first sprtiz I smell very resinous cedar. It is the green sticky cedar sap smell that reminds me of Christmas. This coniferous opening is reinforced with a mellow thick resinous labdanum scent that makes up the body of the scent. There are some other slight influences that might be other woods such as patchouli or agarwood, however I don't smell a pure tone of either. The combination of notes smells something like an oil painters studio thick with smells of linseed oil, pigment and turpentine. There is a light powdery aspect - that might be tobacco - that hovers around the resinous Ambre Mirabilis like a slight floral veil that projects off the denser woods hiding their strength and charms. The parts when deconstructed smell very nice, but all together they don't make a thrilling amber scent or any kind of incense scent at all. But, after wearing it for a few hours it does merge into a nice amber, slightly smokey pleasant scent. I have a prejudice against amber fragrances generally and this one is not better than most others, but it might work wonderfully for the majority of people who seem to love amber fragrances. I would rate it 6.5 of 10.

    23 November, 2013 (Last Edited: 24 November, 2013)


    Bespoke : Vetiver Velours by Keiko Mecheri

    Vetiver Velours is a cool green, indecisive musk centered fragrance. It is soft, pleasant to smell and is built around the generally fuzzy musk warmth that is the heart of many Keiko Mecheri's Bespoke collection. It smells nice, but it doesn't have that bold vetiver statement that so many other great vetiver scents have. What does it stand for? I'ts not a green or verdant, and is not a rooty, damp earth or woods scent. Vetiver Vilours is pleasant almost powdery musk with a slight green woods tone. This fragrance certainly is not worth the premium price put on the Bespoke collection. I am left wondering why they think it is so special?

    23 November, 2013


    Interlude Man by Amouage

    Alpha scintillating leather

    Amouage Interlude Man is a fragrance that I have a personal preference for because I am such an easy target for well adjusted patchouli especially when some leather is added and the essence of this fragrance formulation is the cooling but dominant patchouli leather over incense base. The fragrance never relaxes into a mellow interlude that I can find - but it keeps a smooth sharp cutting edge of scintillating spice honed incense woods and leather. The intensity is definitely on all the time - don't have to read between the lines with this one. One spritz will do, trust me. Interlude Man is a thoroughly enjoyable expressionistic fragrance. Those who are looking for warmth and comfort may not like this one, but I like the bold character of it.

    Pros: distinctive, clean, penetrating, cooling, dominant
    Cons: very bold with tendency to intrude on others space"

    12 October, 2013

    rating by Bond No. 9

    Chartreuse Nectar is a very potent green fragrance that dries from a screecher to a very pleasant to wear leafy green scent. Is it an Aventus clone? No, definitely not. Should it be a flanker to Chez Bond? No, it starts out similarly but ends up very different from Chez Bond too. HTTPBno9 may have been inspired by the success of these two pineapple green fragrances but the differences are clear and this fragrance takes a different path towards its eventual redemption.

    The opening is very green and also very fruity pineapple yellow. I don't know what new synthetic has this pinneapple freshness seen in Aventus, Chez Bond too but this odor is well deployed in this fragrance as well. I think of this opening phase as the bright green chartreuse segment which goes for awhile depending on strength of application. I recomend a light spray for best effect. The harshness of the opening bright yellow green wears down a bit and reveals heart notes that remind me of freshly cut wild brush or weeds. If you've ever followed a big brush cutter that is clearing wild weeds off the side of a country road you will recognize the scent. It is very green, liquid and alive smelling. It smells of country grasslands in the middle of summer. As this wears down the green scent becomes drier and smells a little like the freshness is tempered with a little patchouli or moss notes of some type.

    There is an overall synthetic aspect to the scent here that just doesn't want to go away. But, I think I like the green smell of it. If there were not the high mark set by Aventus this fragrance would probably have many fans. I continue to enjoy it whenever I catch a whiff.

    Opening: pineapple green and harsh - best to not encourage this part

    Middle: green saplings and fresh cut greens

    Base: dry green leaves turning to hay

    From Bond's website this is how they describe the notes: "The starter notes are a high-energy mix of bright yellow bergamot, pineapple oozing with flavor, and juniper berry—evoking the outdoors. Then come the heart notes: not a traditional floral bouquet, but rather apple and blackcurrant, which usually appear as top-notes, along with fresh, clean cedarwood, which combine to underscore HTTP://’s lightness, and which also suggest a new approach to fragrance architecture. By contrast, the base notes—a blend of forest-y patchouli and moss with warm and sensual musk and amber—add seduction, durability, and depth."

    I agree with this selection and description of notes and Bond has done a good job of fragrance crafting here. Following a proven pathway, yes, but the fragrance design and results have substance.

    Pros: Green, potent, unique
    Cons: too potent?"

    20th August, 2013


    Mister Marvelous by Byredo

    Mister Marvelous good and bad

    Mister Marvelous is one of those fragrances that creates an atmosphere or "air" around a person that immerses your space with the clean, original aura of Byredo Mister Marvelous. The smell of the "Mr. Marvelous Air" is crisp, clean, slightly green, a bit of pineapple and very dry - almost sanitized in a way. Mr. Marvelous smells like a marshmallow and pineapple summer salad that is a popular dish here, served at picnics and gatherings during the summer, with ingredients of pineapple, marshmallows, celery, lime jello, cherries, cream cheese/ or cream, pistachios or pecans - all mixed up. This is a refreshing salad when weather is hot and so is Mister Marvelous refreshing to smell. Smells like the salad tastes - refreshing, creamy sweet and tart pineapple. This is what is good about Mr. Marvelous.

    The bad part of Mr. Marvelous is that to get to all those sanitized cool pineapple green pleasantries you have to endure a very harsh and bitter chemical initial smell. This harsh unpleasant smell is especially noticeable if you sniff the scent up close - wrist to nose - and it stays like this for the first half hour or so. I am sure many sniff this off a tester, experience disgust, then scrub it off. But it changes after a while into a better fragrance. Once the bitterness starts to fade then you have a very unique fresh clean scent that has quite powerful silage and that creates a pleasant air all around - it is Marvelous.

    Pros: clean, radiating, refreshing
    Cons: noxious, harshly synthetic for the first 30 minutes

    22 June, 2013


    Sienne d'Orange by Different Company

    Sienne D' Orange

    Orange subtle leather smoothness is the essence of this fragrance. Almost nothing more need be said because Sienne d' Orange is all about - Smootheness - Subtle leather - Soft orange.

    The warm orange opening aroma is enhanced by cardamom for a bit of pithiness and carrot oil for some mineral earthiness. The warmth of orange seems to absorb everything in its path as rolls through the translucency of iris and on to the white leather and apricot wood base. The illusion presented by this fragrance is exquisite simplicity = orange + leather.

    The leather is very subtle, smooth and light while the orange is dreamy and narcotic.

    Pros: addictive oranges, smooth subtle leather
    Cons: is +/- 4 hrs longevity enough?

    15 June, 2013


    Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d'Empire

    Azemour les Orangers

    Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d' Empire is a beautfully composed, austere but radiant orange chypre fragrance. The notes include a wide variety for a fragrance that calls itself "orange" and the variety of ingredients provides mystery and reward for this dry, slightly sueded, orange and green fragrance.

    The opening is true to its name and begins with orange, grapefruit and citron for a very clean bright orange aroma. There is an ever-present green back note from galbanum which gives a natural lift for the citrus and florals of orange blossom, neroli, rose and geranium. These notes alone would make a wonderful and fulfilling orange fragrance with natural green that would be enough to rival any of the summery orange scents on the market. But, not so fast!

    The orange floral innocence has another chapter to play out which arrives abruptly with a dry, natural, chalky base chord. As the orange top notes drift innocently along, the terrain changes to impose an outcropping of mineral notes and dry grasses that is fronted by black pepper, pink pepper and then moves on to hay, moss, henna and iodine for a dry sueded but chyprish base. The effect of this very dry base is quite an interruption to the orange floral pleasantness of the opening. The innocence is lost. There is a refreshing juxtaposition of opposites in this combination of warm citrus, hay, henna and iodine base notes that results in interesting personality, some complication, that is a strengthening feature.

    I like the mystery and aloofness of this fragrance. This is a nice combination of dryness to support all the aspects of orange in here. It seems to work well all year round.

    Pros: warm, orange, dry base
    Cons: The dry and prickly base will limit its appeal for some

    15 June, 2013

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