Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Buzzlepuff

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Total Reviews: 535

Camélia Intrépide by Atelier Cologne

The opening is a buttery lemon cookie of bergamot, rose, iris and soft camelia sprinkled with a touch of nutmeg. This warm soft opening bite is layered over a dry suede leather and amber base. The overall effect here is a soft leather scent that gets drier and more comfortable as it wears on. This is a purely unisex neutral dry leathery suede with a slight warm floral surface note. The scent is in the same general range of leathers such as Hermes Cuir d'Ange and Parfumerie Generale Suede Osmanthus. I give it medium high marks for fragrance artistry - Jerome Epinettte seldom disappoints! My primary complaint is the marketing image disguise as floral - It's a leather scent. Nice one at that.
05th August, 2018

2022 Generation Homme by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

This is one of the few fragrances I've tried that I just don't comprehend. I don't understand the aesthetic here - I am trying. I have heard others champion this scent as a bold creative representation of new Arabic taste. But for me, it is too intense and maybe too sublime. Possibly I just don't understand this expression. Is it too new? It has the tone of a high pitched chant or mantra heard from a distance as it is spiraling ever inward on its mystic journey. A mandala of scent vibrating in an ever increasing focus on yuzu, blackcurrant, saffron, anchored by soft amber - this combination creates an acidic dry tartness which begins high ptched and slowly descends on a spiral path leading to more of the same experience. Very one pointed.

All of the SHL fragrances have elements of cultural depth, excellent ingredients and unique combinations which create sublime and mystical wonder. I have missed the sublime and mystical aspect of 2022 Generation Home. I have five SHL scents in my collection now - I am a big fan this work - but this one misses the mark for me.
24th July, 2018 (last edited: 28th July, 2018)

Nankun Kodō by Sultan Pasha

The overall impression reminds of japanese incense with an addition of dense spice for a spice woods scent to my nose. Cypress woods enhanced by patchouli and slightest oud are the grounding base. Sueded texture from Ambrette and Musk (Ambretolide) rest on top of the woods, while the spice blend adds a raw, grainy spice bin aroma that floats on top of the wood base and never fully merges with the woods. Spices of fenugreek, cumin, star anise, cardamom, clove, allspice mingle in the mixed blend. A characteristic of viscosity of oil as a carrier is the unwillingness to blend and merge all parts easily. So, when the nose leans in to smell Nankun Kodo, I smell the spices as if they were sprinkled on top of the wood resin oils. Lacks seamless absorption of the parts, but like japanese incense this has that sharp resinous pitch that is very nice. The longevity is a few hours if applied thinly with one swipe, longer if applied with two swipes. Rated - 7/10.
21st July, 2018
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Pure Incense by Sultan Pasha

This incense is similar to Norma Kamali Incense is the opinion of the maker. My Impression: A mild well balanced incense, that is milder and lighter than Norma Kamali, but as good maybe better. incense. Slight resinous wooded peaks rise up over a mellow mild toned frankincense and labdanum core. The copal lightens the incense flavor a bit here. A very pleasant incense scent rated - 7/10.
21st July, 2018

Incense Royale by Sultan Pasha

This is a wonderfully complete incense aroma. Well blended and smoothe with few inconsistencies. The Cambodian oud is warm, noticeable and delicately enhanced by cedar wood, copaibha, spikenard resins and warmed andnsolified with opoponax, vanilla, and labdanum an appropriate amber base to this warm incense blend. Overall the feel of Incense Royale is warm medium toned incense with surprising depth and presence. Very nice. As incense goes I rate this one 8/10. The only weakness is it does not last long - put on more I think.
21st July, 2018

Âme Sombre G1 by Sultan Pasha

The opening rose otto with jagged peaks of saffron takes off and soars. The radiance and lightness of rose otto with the sharp edge that saffron imparts is a striking opening. A light undercurrent of frankincense adds thickness to the rose scent, jasmin adds to the lyrical lightness in the heart. All of this dancing song of rose and saffron is underwritten by very dry negative space of woods with labdanum, hyrax, tobacco and vanilla that is very soft and dry as to almost escape notice during the first hours, but later this soft mellow base takes center stage and becomes the scent with the rose saffron still in background as a distant memory. This is a very fine, composed evolving perfume with a nice balance of opposing directions that begins sharply with soaring rose and soon becomes a comfortable nest of dry musky leaf and woods. Rating: 7.5/10.
21st July, 2018

Thebes G1 by Sultan Pasha

This finely blended oil is the scent of wisdom and time. Dry wood, dust and mixed grasses, old leather and human skin are details of Thebes G1. I would summarize the scent as a dusty dry leather musk. The dryness has tones of old hay and earthy vetiver. The leather smells of old skin, well worn hides, then the vetiver and hay scent in the background for a reminiscence of Muscs Koublai Khan only lighter, drier. The heart notes reveal the musk that is one of the best smelling musks I have worn. Lighter than MKK while rose adds a slight radiance to the decaying dryness of old leather - uplifting from the rare rose oil. For me, this is easily one of the best musk fragrances I’ve smelled. Rated: 8.5/10.
21st July, 2018

First Instinct by Abercrombie & Fitch

First Instinct is a summer appropriate, fresh fragrance that opens with a contrasting synthetic accord of tart citrus against a sweet powder musk accord. The sweetness reveals a slight watermelon aroma and the tart citrus connects to a bitter "violet" accord which gets buried in a base of soft musk and ambroxan. There are no natural aromas here in First Instinct - nothing in this scent has the ease and life giving aroma of an extract from any natural source, but the synthetic elements are nicely blended into an innocent and happy young scented fragrance. First Instinct smells really good from several feet away and is a more or less perfect summertime fragrance. Up close the synthetic nature has a sharpness that is not very pleasant. The projection and strength of the fragrance dies down quickly and loses all of the brashness of its opening flurry. The scent is a nice, easy to enjoy, fun fragrance that smells like a heavily sugared tart citrus and melon carbonated beverage that was converted to perfume. Not bad. I would rate it 6 of 10 stars.
13th June, 2018 (last edited: 14th June, 2018)

CH Men Privé by Carolina Herrera

This scent projects nicely with a smooth, soft lavender based traditional aroma. There is a pure sweetness and spice that reminds me of cinnamon sugar cookies at the opening. This sweet spiced accord has some slight whiskey leather complexity on its way to an herbal lavender and thyme toned tonka soft powder base. CH Men Prive is a well put together fragrance that will pair nicely with a suit and tie. Rated 7.5 of 10 stars.
13th June, 2018

Ultra Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

My sales girl showed me this scent and described it as "Very Raspberry". The dry cinnamon plus a bit of rose or geranium layered into the sweet powdery musky Kurkdjian base note results in a light raspberry floral spice to this scent. The smell is sunny, uplifting, with some powerful soft sweet powder at its core. Ultra Male is anything but a masculine scent to my nose. A teenage girl crush, maybe but is this "ultra male"? I don't think so. It is a nice perfume, but definitely not one for me.
31st May, 2018

Invictus Aqua by Paco Rabanne

This is a very bold high seas typhoon force aquatic scent. The bitter green citrus opening washes into an off centered violet dark green then sprays outward into turquoise and lightning charged ozonic air. One of the aquatic characteristics of this scent derives from how expansive the fragrance is. It projects like an electrified burst into crisp ocean storm vapor. While clearly aquatic, Invictus Aqua holds hints of past great violet fragrances, but seen through an aquatic oceanic aesthetic. I like the work on this scent and prefer it over the other versions of Invictus, but it is a little too bold and assertive for me to pull off. It is nice bold statement.
23rd May, 2018

Sauvage Very Cool Spray by Christian Dior

Same dry down scent as Sauvage but the top notes have a tart citrus that some describe as grapefruit. Dior says they developed a new variety of bergamot that is unique and distinctive - smells like a grapefruit version of bergamot at the opening. The Very Cool Spray bottle is powered by compressed oxygen in a newly developed spray mechanism - works great. This scent does smell fresher and more spring and summer appropriate and I think it is much easier version for me to pull off. Sauvage Very Cool loses that chemically heavy dihydromyrcenol and basil heaviness and goes more with a grapefruit basil and ambroxan structure that smells a little thinner but more expansive. Much better for me. I like to spray this on back of neck and shoulders so the aroma doesn't billow up into my face but surrounds and follows with a cloud of silage. Thumbs way up!
22nd May, 2018

Promise by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

At first you think this is a spicy rose scent. But the whirl of of its contrasts all eventually seem to revolve around the amber base. Many amber scents are built around rose which is such a natural opening to an amber warmth. Dominique Ropion creates a unique odor of contrasts that is impossible to describe yet is totally unforgettable. Promise. Prickly cloves coat the sharp edges of a tart green apple cloak that covers a huge floating, suspended in time and space, heart of rose which hovers over the mystical, almost invisible depths of patchouli + nagarmatha/cypriol amber base. This cold incense woods base pulls the warm light of the rose and clove heart deeper into its irresistible gravitational depths. Promise is a clove and very lively floral amber that is drawn slowly into the wisdom of its cooling incense base. The primary character of Promise is spicy and warm rose. But, the unforgettable quality is the depth of the incense as it lounges into the smooth amber which ties it all together. To me this creation is close to masterpiece territory from M. Ropion.
14th May, 2018
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Faqat Lil Rijal by Rasasi

Faquat Lil Rijal is a light but satisfying blend of warm geranium/rose with very dry saffron and cardamom spice over a dry woods and suede leather base. The rose and saffron gives it a classic arabic rose quality warmth while the light woods base keeps the scent airy and light compared to the heavier rose saffron oud scents that populate the market today. The darkness and depth of oud is notably absent in this formula.

The fragrant notes listed are Top notes of Saffron, Bergamot; Middle notes of Geranium, Cardamom, Jasmine, Rice; Base notes of Patchouli, Leather, Sandalwood and Musk.

This fragrance has a warm saffron and cardamom tint to the rose woods without actually having any oud presence. Instead of oud Rasasi uses their light dry leather - made famous in La Yuqawam - blended with musk and patchouli. This base adds a light dry but mysterious quality that lacks the great depth that an oud would have given; however the dry leather and woods + warm fuzzy musk gives a lighter but nicely finished quality to this scent. I think of this as a lighter but very wearable Arabic saffron and rose masculine. Rated 7 of 10.
09th May, 2018

Dhanal Oudh Nazaha by Rasasi

Dhanal Oudh Nazaha is a mixed warm floral saffron + oud scent that has a distinctive arabian style and is an easy wear masculine type character due to its bold use of a standard masculine patchouli/musk/cedarwood grounding base. This is my favorite Rasasi oud based scent I have tried. They make over 170 perfumes so I can not objectively say it's the best one - just my favorite of the dozen or so Rasasi I have. I can not recall smelling another exactly like this one - so it is not a commonly composed theme here, but there is an everyday commonality about it that wears well. The product is nicely presented with bottle and box surrounded by natural woods and woven rattan matte. Retail prices range $85 - $150 and this is an excellent value for a fragrance of this quality.

The opening bergamot is bold and lemony, but just for a moment then turns juicy and warm as it blends with the floral heart of rose, jasmine and orange flower, spiced with dry saffron. Saffron adds a sharp bite of tartness that along with the florals and bergamot adds to the citric warmth aspect that reminds me of a cherry limeade juicy tartness. The oud that emerges, rounds out the expansive opening while not over doing oud in any way. This Rasasi is very well blended in the opening and heart notes that are kept grounded with dry wood and patchouli finish. The citric floral oud scent develops evenly and lasts all day. At times I smell the citrus floral oud and at other times, when closer in, I smell the saffron dry spice spread over the wood base. I rate Dhanal Oudh Nazaha 7.5 out of 10.
09th May, 2018

Cacao Aztèque Extrait de Parfum by Perris Monte Carlo

Cacao Azteque is a fine cozy comfort fragrance with peppery spice and cardamom opening a soft dark chocolate + tuberose and leathery musk soft finish. With cacao in the name you expect a chocolate flavor, however chocolate is not a stand alone note in the world of scent and this cocoa is comfortably absorbed into a melange of pepper, cardamom, rum, chocolate, tuberose, sandalwood, and leather. The leather provides a dry soft finish but the character of the scent is cozy and warm fuzzies all around. A camphorous and mentholated tuberose floral adds depth to the spiced chocolate before the finish turns dry and slightly prickly before the sandalwood, leather and soft musk base. The blending is so complimentary that it is difficult to pick out any one note as dominant but they all take turns getting noticed while cocoa lays underneath. The long lasting base is a warm darkly spiced Mexican cocoa drink of ancient origins. Cocoa Azteque puts a smile on the face and is one of Perris Monte Carlo's best fragrances - maybe the best one.
14th March, 2018

Incense Gold by Ermenegildo Zegna

Incense Gold opens with a lemon and saffron note that is wonderfully exotic and deep for saffron and is an aggressive incense opening. This saffron is the leading edge of a cold steely cardamom, incense, juniper, peppery leather body of dryness that has a dark incense feel. The character of Incense Gold is dark and rough but clothed in a rugged elegance - you don't take your eyes off this presence if you pass it on the street. A bold statement. A rating of 7.5 of 10.
11th March, 2018

Persian Saffron by Ermenegildo Zegna

I am cautiously thumbs up because I really like this scent because it is pleasant and evocative, and offers all the mysteries of saffron up front; but, I am frustrated that the story starts and ends with saffron and seems incomplete in a way. The personality of saffron begs for other notes to show contrast against and it is great for that purpose. The notes list I have seen says Zegna Persian Saffron is composed of bergamot, citruses, saffron and exotic spices. It smells exactly like this too with exotic, threateningly raw saffron which flows continuously out into the world through a lemony citrus doorway and more or less ends its story when it passes through. The spices, mentioned as the closing notes are very dry, peppery and hard but leave tiny elegant swirling paisley trails of exotic saffron aroma that close and quickly disperse. This is a brief but very complete story in a fragrance. If you love saffron and persian orientalism in design, you will enjoy this fragrance.

Zegna has a nearly identical opening and mid notes of bergamot + saffron in another release, Zegna Incense Gold, which emerged a year earlier, 2016 and contains the same saffron opening scent which is paired with frankincense and leather which makes a very complimentary blend and a great fragrance. Somebody at Zegna was sniffing this wonderful Incense Gold, saffron opening and might have said - "this smells wonderful without all this incense and leather, put that in a bottle and add a slight spice trail to it!". They did and it works. Persian Spice gets 8 of 10 stars.
11th March, 2018

El Cosmico by D.S. & Durga

El Cosmico is D.S.& Durga's interpretation of the atmosphere and evening air at the namesake Marfa Texas hotel and campsite that resides on the wild edge between civilization and the high plains desert. This same aroma is found in many of the desert southwest communities when the sun goes down as piñon and dried mesquite smoke fills the cool night air with cleansing smokey resin drifting from campfire and kiva with a smudge of shamanic essence. El Cosmico smells smokey and dusty with resinous bold notes from piñon, khella and creosote. The appeal of a fragrance like this is not its beauty, but that it transports you to a specific time and place that has a not so familiar and wild adventurous spirit. Many of D.S. Durga fragrances have this same outdoor spirit, but most are easier to wear than this one. El Cosmico is a wild gnarly aroma of piñon pine and burnt creosote. I like the imagery and creativity of this fragrance but I won't wear it because its abrasive character is just slightly off the mark for me.
18th February, 2018

Soleil de Jeddeh by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

Soleil de Jeddeh is a sandstorm of subtle softness of osmanthus, iris and suede powder. There is a slight lemon fruit opening to an otherwise very dry powdery scent. The notes combine for a very smoothe slightly iridescent sheen to the dry down that takes it out of cozy comfort powder territory and into a dry windswept desert sands realm. The fragrance is a warm elegantly cared for suede osmanthus very light incense. Soleil is related to and possibly is a precursor to the more recent Taklamakan, but still is warmer. These notes are also similar to PG Suede Osmanthe but the lemon in the opening makes quite a difference. Unisex and I rate it 7/10.
10th February, 2018 (last edited: 11th February, 2018)

Amber Gold by Ermenegildo Zegna

I feel obligated to echo the opinions NickZee has enumerated about Zegna Amber Gold. This may be Zegna's best fragrance to date and is well worth seeking it out especially if you like amber incense types of fragrance. I do. This Zegna is way up on a pedestal in quality and character with Atelier des Ors Larmes du Desert and Tauer L'Air du Desert Maroccain. The initial rose only opens the door to a rich and dark amber note which is co presented with a healing lavender note. I smell the lavender + amber and I'm thinking Bois du Portugal? or Nicolai New York? which is quite nice, but it continues to get better. The patchouli quickly takes over the lavender, the rose melts into the amber darkness and a dangerous bit of incense slithers its way into the mix turning this to a deep amber incense scent loaded with character and long lasting as well. Zegna has used similar notes in their Elements of Man series for Passion, which is almost as good as this one. Rated 9/10.
10th February, 2018

Natura Fabularis : 9 Arcana Rosa by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Arcana Rose is built around the simple but proven combination of rose and vetiver. The mixture of rose essential oil with vetiver essential oil has always been a magical blend. The cool earthiness of vetiver grounds the expansive and healing radiance of rose resulting in an ancient natural and healing mystical potion. This rose / vetiver is strengthened by addition of juniper, cedar and sandalwood as a base and the rose is given an amber edge with labdanum. A beautiful and very natural ambered rose that has green and light woods support. The result is more of an apothecary ancient rose formula rather than a floral perfume. I would categorize Arcana Rose as a healthy option in the rose wood perfume genre.
02nd February, 2018

Queen Street by Haeckels

I like this fragrance. Bought it blind hoping for more leather, but I am happy and surprised with the melony but lively green opening notes. I think I can smell what they describe as glue accord as well as a very dry base which is the leather. Queen Street is a truly unique and is an original combination of notes. It smells British for some hard to describe reason. I am reminded of Jack by Richard E. Grant which is also very British in character and has a similar combination of green notes on top of very dry leather - but different than this one. I know you might be thinking it so I will say this is not an Aventus clone, not even close. Something in the melon and green opening smells a little like a candy, but it is a good overall tone due to the changes and contrasts. Well done for a rare summer green and weathered but still fresh leather from Grenson.
01st February, 2018

Mortal Skin by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

The opening of Mortal skin smells like blackberry and rose with a dark attitude. Then a very bold salty and sweet ambergris follows through with inky dark berries with a sweet but bold amber base. These two don't really go well together for me. They are both heavy and dark and need more quiet or softness in there to prolong the mystery. There is a disconnect here somewhere at lest for my taste. I believe amber lovers might appreciate the unusualness of Mortal Skin, but it misses the mark for me. There is quality but it is trying to hard to be mysterious. Did you see the bottle? Nice!!
22nd January, 2018 (last edited: 28th July, 2018)

Reflection Man by Amouage

I can see why so many people love this scent. Reflection is an aromatic scent built from old fashioned fragrance combinations that are often found in toiletries, fine milled soaps and barbershops around the world. The opening is bitter orange leaf, pepper, rosemary and neroli that turns a bit powdery over a layer of orris that smoothes out the mid notes. The base is a classic masculine sharp edged cedar, sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli perfect finish. This same combination can be found in many other popular stalwart colognes such as: Villoresi Uomo, Aqua di Parma Essenza, Stetson Cologne and MFK Pluriel. This is a classic but soapy aroma that is done on a slightly more refined level to reflect the Amouage standard level of quality. Reflection risks making no enemies and is a steady and pleasantly upbeat friendly clean cut fragrance.
17th January, 2018

Oud Fleur by Tom Ford

Oud Fleur is a really well balanced rose fragrance. I almost want to call it an oud rose, but the oud is very light and is secondary so even though its in the title this fragrance is a rose scent supported by oud, sandalwood, leather and patchouli for a dry but warm background.
So on balance we have very well rounded rose with some spices, nice leather and woods supporting notes and a bit of incense oud before it retires. One of the better rose scents out on the market today. I wouldn't call it an oud scent because all these other notes are secondary to the big rose statement. Oud Fleur is in the same category of fine rose scents as fragrances such as Rose of No Man's Land, Gris Montaigne, Lumiere Noir pour Homme, and Rose Arcana. These are all similar but Oud Fleur is one of the best of that group.
14th January, 2018

Indian Spice by Ermenegildo Zegna

Great name for a fragrance that is a very nice Indian Spice combination. The opening blend of cardamom, coriander and star anise is a potent but cooling spice that is reminiscent of a hot milky chai tea. This combination is uplifting, warm and peppery and dissolves into a cooling mint and pepper sensation which is a penetrating characteristic of these spices especially cardamom. As the fragrance dries down it blends with a wood base of oud, cedar and patchouli which brings out the deep incense that is a natural resinous incense wood. Patchouli strengthens the warm/cool mint sensation woods wile we are immersed in a traditional older world of comfort strokes. Indian Spice retains a mystical, adventurous aura that lingers into the night. This scent blends well with the other Zegna Gold scents of Amber Gold, Musk Gold and Incense Gold adding a spicy warmth sort of edible quality to these traditional incense aromas.
13th January, 2018 (last edited: 14th May, 2018)

Grimoire by Anatole Lebreton

Grimoire is magical mixture of various scent directions that assembles itself into a potion which radiates earthen mosses, healing minty lavender, and herbal tinged incense woods. There is a dark green direction to the mossiness that hovers close to the earth and crackles with aromatic healing qualities from cumin, basil and herbal lavender. The herbal content here gives the moss a feeling of a healing poultice with bold curative power. The varieties of lavender in this brew offers a green penetrating and medicinal aspect, but also a shimmering purple iridescent aroma that is lighter and floats above with an ethereal presence. Atlas Cedar also helps the penetrating nature of the scent with its pinene woodiness. The central body of the scent has a not altogether pleasant ashen dry and empty feeling. But the surrounding aromas are very engaging and make up for the contradictions. Grimoire offers a very interesting fragrance and a fairy tale of complexities in the fragrance blending. It is a unique experience which is getting hard to find in new fragrances.
12th January, 2018

Taklamakan by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

The Taklamakan desert is the largest desert in China and is the worlds second largest shifting sand desert. The namesake of this Stephane Humbert Lucas 777 fragrance is the arid dry sands and shifting winds of this desert desolation and by indirect association and similarity of ingredients, I detect a reference to Tauer's L'Air du Desert Moracain which I think is the inspirational category leader for this type of fragrance. Compared to LDDM Taklamakan is more - more of everything - including more ingredients to achieve the effect, more coordination and artistry to smooth all of these dry incense woods and spices into a stunning cozy but elegant composition. Takalamakan unfolds in a slightly more subtle way and because of this receptive natured softness it might be seen as more refined, possibly more feminine while still being very unisex.

The notes listed for Taklamakan: Bergamot, rose, patchouli coeur, black vanilla, tonka absolute, birch, cade, gaiac, cedar, myrrh, orris, tolu balsam, labdanum, ambreine, amber gris, benzoin, sandalwood, musk; and this list feels more accurate to me than the directory notes printed above. Amberine, ambergris, black vanilla, benzoin and sandalwood are an accurate amber woods description. While the cade, birch, myrrh, patchoui and gaiac brings a moody darkness noticeable earlier in the development that is not present in other desert inspired amber incense brands. These darker parts coupled with the very smooth amber melange creates a dark amber or black amber that is very attractive and has considerable depth. The prominence of benzoin, sandalwood and musk adds a cozy almost cuddly sheen to the mix that is very alluring. Taklamakan is an amber incense fragrance that uses desert references through its soft dry wood notes and then becomes even softer. This is an exceptional fragrance that is comparable to dozens of other fine and rare fragrances but, Taklamakan holds its own place of uniqueness. I think this is an excellent value of quality for the price of this bottle. This creation adds another superb jewel in the crown for Stephane Humbert Lucas.
07th January, 2018

Elements of Man : Strength by Ermenegildo Zegna

I am really liking this fragrance Strength from Zegna's Wisdom of Man series. The dry tobacco leaves stay dominant all through as apricot, deep echoing woods of oud and pine needles. The smoke quality only shows during the first couple hours then is gone. Comparable fragrances to me are Gucci Pour Homme II, Slumberhouse Baque and Burberry London. The tobacco character is stronger here than in London and the fragrance overall is bolder than GPH II, however I would give it a similar rating as with number 2 Gucci Pour Homme. The boldness here requires a warning to spray with caution. I honestly don't see much the similarity to Tobacco Vanille due to no vanilla in this scent at all. There is some sweetness from the apricot but the tobacco is the star player. The apricot gives it a similarity to Baque. Tobacco lovers take notice! One of the best of the Wisdom of Man by Zegna receiving 4 of 5 stars for its warmth and "strength".
06th January, 2018