Perfume Reviews

Reviews by mademoiselle_nicole


Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas

a beautiful fragrance, a conservative idea put into practice with a modern feel. classy, well balanced, Schwieger´s pièce de résistance are the iris based powdery scents. I love lipstick rose and expected much from iris nazarena.I have not been disappointed. He does special or nothing. here he did special again
02nd March, 2015

Oeillet Bengale by Aedes de Venustas

Great, much more significant than artisan´s new pale new edition of oeillet sauvage. understated, elegant. not loud, not into the eye, just velvety and classic.
This might not be a signature scent or something overly complex, it is linear, simple and powdery. Whoe loved the old oeillet sauvage will love this
01st March, 2015 (last edited: 02nd March, 2015)

Péché Cardinal by MDCI

This fragrace was playing with my nerves. I liked it from the first time I got a whiff of it. ... Yet this is absolutely nothing I would normally go for. I like classy, spicy, elegant. This is lush, fruity,sweet. The name is perfect for it because first of all I felt like doing sth forbidden when I bought it in the end.... due to the mentioned fact that it seems not to be in my line normally. If You feel obliged to wear fragrances which are noble, elegant and demure, then this big tubereuse, coconut,peach concoction makes you feel a tad ashamed. Like a chic lady that You catch accidently during a holiday wearing hotpants... this stuff is sexy, lush, lovely, delicious and yet well done so you kind of cant get around it. It is that little sexy thing that you need in your wardrobe. addictive.
23rd July, 2014
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Rose de Siwa / FK2 by MDCI

I am with NIB here. This rose opens delicate, classy and victorian. It is a child´s dream grown up. I pink rose garden, fresh, lovely, classic yet not boring. Next to une rose di malle one of my favorite roses. Not overly bursting of fantasy, but really good mannerly done.I think I will buy one at this point
23rd July, 2014

Hanbury by Maria Candida Gentile

The botanical garden of Hanbury is based in Ventimiglia which lingers on the italian side of the costa azzurra.
Explosions of flowers wait behind high walls which protect the gardens from the curious eyes of the outsider. The flowers lift up under the strikingly blue morning sky like the song of a single flute. During the day they warm up getting fuller, adding up to a heavier and opulent chant , yet never losing their elegance and tone of white.
They linger along when the dawn resolves them from the torture of the heat donating a bit of rest in a cool wind from the sea. A symphony swelling on and off during the day. This beauty plays with you .Once catapulting you right into the middle of a flower bush, once letting you rest under it.
And sometimes, in the moments of greatest desire, it allows you only to perceive its beauty as a whisper from afar while you are waiting impatiently to be let into the palace and a soft breeze carries the promise of eternal beauty over the thick walls...

painfully beautiful... I cant get around a bottle
18th June, 2014

Exultat by Maria Candida Gentile

Exultat, the name says it. It exceeds my expectations. A very well balanced fragrance made with passion. Round and edgy at the same time. I tried this on recommendation of a friend and fell in love. The oranges give just a nearly undetectable wiff of sourness and freshness to the depart which is yet essential for the balance of the fragrance. Then you immediately perceive the dry elegant cedar, the earthy vetiver and by this point you should already be in love. The incense is balsamic, eccelsiastic, yet not too tamed. It curls through the whole construction like a clean grey smoke directed to heaven but clearly coming from earth. Exultat has depth, is resoundingly spiritual and creates a bridge between you and your reflecting inner self. A cloud of soft ethereal violets embrace the feminine side of this beauty. Wearabel for both genders a real discovery. Worth every penny. I adour
I will soon head off to get a bottle
18th June, 2014

La Haie Fleurie du Hameau by L'Artisan Parfumeur

this is young ornella muti in a white fur coat. a gorgeous 1950s inspired jasmine accord. lovely
27th December, 2013

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

just as the woollen capes of the monarchs in the mountains of nepal are scratchy as you put them on, so is this fragrance at first wiff. harsh and scratchy to the nose. the green unripe note of litchi gives us an uncomfortable start. But as the wool gets softer while warming up, so does dzongkha. notes of spiced milky tea, wood, metallic incense and an embrace of old leather wind up into a chant of dark and deep voices calling inner peace. an enigmatic fragrance. Quiet and mysterious as the temples of butan this is inspired to.
dark and vibrant colours. Like a belle del Nuit..... worth waiting for to open up
27th December, 2013

Fam by So Oud

nice. VERY nice. It has been a long time I was looking for an oud rose with a twist.
We all know the combination works. But- some just like black oud by montale , which i like, are too pungent or harsh. Some are too dirty, some too sweet. I wanted an oud rose combination that has that aquiline beauty of the fragrances you smell when the saudis walk by. I wanted natural and lush, but i also wanted saffron and softness without it being overly sugary. This is just the right balance of it all. A beautiful, warm embracing rose saffron oud to make you feel cozy and luxurious.
27th December, 2013

La Belle Hélène by MDCI

so.... I really wanted this bottle.... and couldn´t find any fragrance of this house that I really liked. Until they released la belle hélène. When i read Ducheaufour made it, I wanted to give it a try. It is a gourmand Chypre. Even though the Chypre notes are not all present, this is the effect of it. Elegant, rich, gorumand but not overly sweet. Candied pear in a bed of gourmand and oriental notes. Nice and warm. Definitely worth a try for who dislikes the sweetnes of crushed fruit salad in perfume. nicely done
27th December, 2013

Un Balcón Sobre el Paseo del Prado by Loewe

this is a lovely one. it is nothing overly new or spectacular, but it is a nice, clean oud rose accord that is crystalline and wearable even in warmer days. It is elegant and pretty, nothing animalic here. a really well done oud that you could easily wear to the office. tamed and well done
27th December, 2013

Une Fleur de Cassie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

They say you have to take time to understand this. true .I worked for years in the niche perfumery but with this I have trouble finding words. when I smelled it first I could hardly tell what it smelled like. But it smelled deliciously French, rich and chic..... yet it smelled antique and like a wiff from the old world.... without being dusty or old fashioned. it was as if you look at a painting of Lempicka.... and suddenly are standing in it. It felt as if your grandma shows you a photograph of herself as a young girl in the 1940s.... and then suddenly you are in the photograph with her. Antique and new at the same time. Like a seal never broken. This fragrance is sth so original , I cant compare it to any other fragrance I know or own. It is as if You found out what an apple tasted hundred years ago, what a new hat in the twenties felt like wearing. Fleur de Cassie feels like sth that comes out of a time when things still createdemotions in people.....
out of the world yet part of it. wonderful!!
27th December, 2013

Bottega Veneta by Bottega Veneta

milky elegance

I got to know this fragrance because a collegue wore it. It is a warm and soft fragrance. Yet as so many soft scents, it does not lack personality. A classy chypre with a modern edge to it. This scent is sturdy, head up high and the woman who wears it should be both: a lady and knowing where she wants to arrive in life. The frangrance is present, yet not opppressive, warm but not overwhelming, strong yet not intimidating. Apart but not vulgar. a Lady but a strong character. You cant miss it when she comes into the room. breathtaking but not breath-cutting. Very well done Almairac

Pros: warm and elegant
Cons: too much for summer"

04th August, 2013
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Bois d'Iris by Van Cleef & Arpels

I was surprised by this one. usually iris fragrances struggle with the fact that they dont smell of iris due to the high price of the real thing. this one does not only smell of iris nobile but also has a nice smokey, woody, powdery warmth to it which makes it subtle but sexy. it has a good lasting power and remains elegant during the day.
very well done
07th April, 2012 (last edited: 29th June, 2012)

Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande by Hermès

please picture a country house somewhere in the hamptons, full of the rich ,young and beautiful. Large leather sofas you sink in when sitting down, finest cigars and old whisky.
poivre samarcande catapults you into the old world. the fragrance has the souverain sexyness of a man who was just born with it all. the understatement of the selfconfident. smokey peppery with a touch of soft wood. a very well balanced fragrance that makes me think of a man who knows to waer his white tie.
07th April, 2012 (last edited: 29th June, 2012)

Carillon Pour Un Ange by Tauer

I am sorry again, I wear florals very well- usually. this was not only a dense, sweet cloying desaster on my skin, it did not even come off. I did not smell any of the flowers: lily of the valley is better be found in muguet blanc by van cleef, lilac in en passant . this fragrance disappointed me a lot. I really felt it smelled bad . no thank you
07th April, 2012 (last edited: 29th June, 2012)

Rêverie au Jardin by Tauer

I am sorry to say this, but this fragrance is flat useless and nothing the name promises. no for me
07th April, 2012

Muguet Blanc by Van Cleef & Arpels

I tried lots of lily of the valleys before this one, including: penhaligon's lily of the valley which comes down too lemony and dry, gouttal which smells like dying lily of the valley, floris which is a nice and faithful but slightly old lady lily of the valley, crabtree and evelyn which doesn't last the lily it seems in the beginning and bronnley which doesn't smell like lily at all.
so, now after this running after a nice lily of the valley which doesn't smell neither like dead flowers, nor like housecleaning products, this muguet blanc was a surprise. I hardly search for good fragrances in fashion or jewelry houses. But all fragrances of this collection are nicely done. This lily of the valley is fresh, yet slightly powdery, educated, clean and elegant. In certain moments it reminds me of en passant by frederic malle.But with the difference that muguet blanc is a tad more grown up.

It transforms the innocent youth of en passant into a grown up, self-confident elegance of a real lady who never forgets where she comes from. Clean, soft and un-alluring it breathes class all over. Nicely done with a good lasting power of several hours and a nice echo it leaves on my clothes. its beauty is unassuming and makes me think of audrey hepburn's understated charm. worth a bottle
06th April, 2012 (last edited: 07th April, 2012)

L'Ete en Douce / Extrait de Songes by L'Artisan Parfumeur

happy, this is a happy fragrance without edges. not what you would call a signature fragrance in any way ,but sth that immediately makes you smile. it smells a bit like fresh washed laundry...mixed with an open summer meadow.
remember that first school trip you did not want to go to???? and the pullover your granny had washed and that smelled so homely when you snuggled your nose in?and did it comfort you? été en douce is that pullover. cosy, comforting and soft. or the summer meadow you have been lying on as a kid watching the shapes of the clouds go by?
this is what you find here. clean,cosy,comforting, charming, happy. entirely happy. this may not be a fragrance you will try to seduce someone with...but you do not wear a tight red vamp dress for summer picnic either do you?I love this fragrance because it is genuine and pure.
and why should that nt be sexy?
08th February, 2011

Pur Désir de Lilas by Yves Rocher

Soft and lovely. I use en passant by frederic malle and it shows to be a little volatile at times. This lilac by yves rocher offers an excellent line of shower gel, bodylotion and eau de toilette. Au contraire di en passant it is a little less water-fairily and somewhat more vanillic soft in the basis.
A true, sweet, headturning garden lilac with a hint of vanilla cookies. It smells young, fresh, gorgeous... a beauty bonne-mine. A fragrance being gentle and romantic, feminine and kind without missing character.
It reminds me of monet's garden.
I do mix it with en passant in order to give a bit more corps to en passant. This fragrance is entirely pretty also worn by itself. It is glowing like a soft rosy cheek.
it carries the priviledge of pureness - true unmanipulated lovelyness
the best thing - it does not cost much and if it was all i could afford on a low budget, this would be a lifetime fragrance because it does not smell cheap at all.
04th February, 2011

Lipstick Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

This is Doris Day bottled. Blond, ironic, seemingly naive yet conscious.
One of those playful fragrances that You can wear with a circle skirt and a sharp mind. It definitely has sense of humour. It is more funky and sugary respect the more bon-ton drole de rose. Violetty-sugary-fun-but-ladylike.
You need the right person to pull this off.
20th January, 2010

Beyond Love by By Kilian

I have never been a grand fan of tubereuse fragrances. I usually find them too loud and little elegant. My grandmother always used to say that most of times less is more.
This is what happens here. Calice really concentrated on the real thing, the flower by itself and put in some of the best indian tubereuse absolue.a smooth touch to the top with fresh coconut water and some green tone to it with the green tubereuse accord, just a touch of soft tonka bean in the dry down and tadaaaaaaaaaa: the first ladylike tubereuse is born. Fresh green, soft, feminine without overdoing it. sensual but not vulgar. Soft but not butttery, sweet but not toothwrecking.
A cool sophisticated tubereuse greenery that even une vraie dame would wear.
18th January, 2010

Homage Attar by Amouage

I almost burst with curiosity when I finally received my attar.
The bottle was so tiny, I was almost afraid to open it.
Also I had ordered it blindly and was full of expectation.
So I bent down carfully and lifted up the minuscule glass ball that clothes the bottle.
I stepped back and prepared for bending over the bottle in order to take the first sniff when it already hit me.
That tiny little thing in a distance of about 60cm was emanating a fragranced aura - so proud, strong and fierce that I stood back amazed.It was like the dschinn coming out of aladdins lamp.
Such a small thing and so much glorious power in it.
It was as if a cristal clear steal blue sky unfolded in front of my eye.And it was just us wide as the open sky.
What makes this breathtaking is actually the overwhelming strength it generates.Nothing for someone who wants to pass unobserved.
It is a king/queen fragrance. I agree with what some said- its beauty is gender-passing. But it is not one of those horrid unisex nose-insults. It is just a gem, a jewel incarnated in fragrance.

The citrus notes are uplifting the whole construction without making a sad toilet water out of it.
The rose is dewy ,yet strong.
The francinsense lies as balsam under the crisp roseleaves and the oud gives it the radiance a king would wish for his arrival.
It is a fragrance which makes me think of an open desert sky, and it also is a fragrance I cannot imagine on a person with an anxious heart or shut thinking horizon.
It is as free and fierce as the tuareg.Son's of desert, courageous, proud, beautiful minds. Noble and uncompromising.
No double tongued, vague thing.
Though it is composed with just a few exquisit ingredients, it is everything else but simple.
Its depth derives from the faceted beauty natural ingredients usually posses. This is also why they tend to overwhelm us.
If this was a person, not a fragrance, it would be one of those rare people possessing inborn grace,charisma and authority.
So there I was standing in front of my royal little treasure.
I tried a teeny drop on each side of my neck and found myself wrapped into an olfacitve coat, one side icy light blue silk of sky, the other side the darkest blue velvet of desert night, over and over covered with stars....
I am grateful for such a beauty, it is very rare we can still get in touch with such genuine fragrance crowns
29th January, 2009

Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé by Hermès

Autumn dance has begun.
When red and golden leaves start falling I always get particolarly homesick. I miss walking through the woods collecting leaves in all colours, baking apples in the oven and sitting by the fire telling stories.

Ambre Nargiulé gave me that welcoming feeling of home from the first time I smelled it.
It is as warm and protecting as the open arms of Your Mum when You come from outside in Winter and she is already at the door with a cosy cashmere plaid to wrap You up tightly.
I get the same soft gourmand fond as in Shalimar, the same tonkabean and amber-vanillic mix.Deliciously woven into this thick liquor I get raisins, dry plum, apple and candied apricot , all sugared and spiced up with a touch of cinnamon.

Sweet, yet not overly edible; dense yet lightweight.

One of the few comforting fragrances which dont lack character.

smooth as catpaws

29th October, 2008

L'Eau d'Ambre Extrême / Ambre Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur

A dense very versatile amber.
Nice and thick ,melting down on Your skin like butter on a hot pan.

Starting with a little harsh accord of spices which gives it just enough angular quality not to get boring, this amber is one of the most harmonious softest ambers I know.
Using natural amber it possesses the depth of structure most natural ingredients offer compared to their synthesis brothers.
Maybe this is why this "just" amber fragrance does not get flat even though its crown is monothematic.

Nicely wearable on its own but also with most other artisans in order to enrichen them.
It gives a nice body to the warm and sweet ones, rendering the flowers more "old-mannerly" ladylike.

In every case a go, with its infinite possibilities.

29th October, 2008

Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens

This fragrance is touching in the deepest , dirtiest way, comforting and disturbing all at once.

The first thing I get from it is unwashed intimate parts of a male.
The first impact is dry urine and other excrements, mixed with sweet tobacco of a chain smoker, dusty polyester trousers and an unwashed body warmed by the sun.
Smelling it makes me smile because my nose gets lavanda,civet, tobacco leaves, leather, castorum and labdanum, vanilla, and maybe also fava tonca... woven into a devlish masterpiece. Comforting because of its human scent.and at the same time terrorising... because of its human scent.
It is what we would smell like if we did not have showers and fresh clothes at hand every day.
It is comforting because it reminds us of our human roots and leck of perfection, it 's so real. But in a society where everything has to function perfectly and be anti-septical, this fragrance will scare all who try to cover all human smell.
I think it is like caron pour un homme who chain-smoked, drank and partied for a week without ever popping into a shower. I think I would wear this in combination with a stunning evening dress for a dinner with someone I have an open revenge with. It is so breathtakingly beastily terrible that it is already genial.
A fragrant insult and a masterpiece.
It does not smell good though.
Something that might leave You in doubt... did she or did she not... wash? It is freaky. I love it
25th September, 2008

Jubilation 25 by Amouage

I agree with vidabo. Jubilation is a very well blended fragrance which floats close to your skin softly while changing its face several times. just like a kaleidoskop it gives out several perspectives of its inner life.
spicy and powdery it is a classic that one could imagine on one of those intelligent timeless elegant ladies who never forgets who she is.
jubilation has this amazing contenance. this is why it is wearable in the day and also in a grand evening. it just never misbehaves,is always elegant and slowly smoothes into your skin without getting lost.
rich of facettes
well done
09th September, 2008

Silver Bond / Andy Warhol Silver Factory by Bond No. 9

When I was ten, I used to do bible lessons at church.
There was this little room where the incense of past services gathered , together with the sweet-dusty-foody almost vanilla like smell of the songbooks.
while silver factory starts with a harsh, tin-cup oily incense, it then opens up to get exactly what I described before and dies down to a silvery sweet soft vanilla incense.
though I am not sure if I really want to smell like that little studying room at church, it is nevertheless a very beautiful fragrance that I consider buying.
Even for the memories it evokes.
The only bond I would buy for its outstanding character
04th September, 2008

Black Aoud by Montale

a rich and oily rose, the opulence you usually percieve when a saudi lay walks in front of you in the street.
a warm rose, slow and intense. one of those fragrances that underline the arabic sense of patience... everyhing has its time, and some things are worth waiting for. if you can stand the first opening which is a litlle pungeant and severe, this rich scent of 1000 and 1 night will be worth waiting
04th September, 2008

L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

Well I agree with purplebird, this is an atmospheric scent.
It really recalls the mix of dust, cold stone, shady zouk, cologne and male skin that reminds me so vividly on my moroccan times... but for my dear who is homesick, it is exactly what I will buy to make him feel better
04th September, 2008