Fragrance Reviews by lilinah

The nose behind "Piment Brulant" was inspired by the Aztec drink "cacahuatl" and a recipe published in Spain in 1631 that blends New World cocoa, chillies, vanilla and annatto with Old World anise, cinnamon, almonds, hazelnuts, and white sugar. Plus it is now fashionable to make chocolate bars and chocolate ice creams with chilis, vanilla, and spices, which i enjoy.

Still, i was surprised by the richness, complexity, and sophistication of this perfume. The combination of aromas is astonishing, perhaps counter-intuitive, but it works beautifully!

At first spray i smelled citrus ( or perhaps the raspberry listed on some fragrance blogs), vanilla, red bell pepper, and capsicum (chili). As the scent develops more fragrances emerge, none standing out individually: non-specific, non-girly floral, intriguing spices; a hint of chocolate; and a slight warm animal undertone.

It is absolutely NOT gourmand, thank goodness. And it isn't overpowering, remaining light and gentle. I love hot spicy food and i *love* "Piment Brûlant".

Oh! I adore this perfume! It is so unusual. I bought it scent unsmelled and i am thrilled!

It comes, as one can see, in a pink "hand grenade". You have to "pull the pin" (remove the black ribbon) to spray it. And it begins with a blast!

It hit me with an intensity of woods and spices - very NOT sweet, very NOT floral. Modern and edgy, complex and sophisticated, adult and confident. Definitely not for the timid or conventional, not for little old ladies or mall rats. A strong and unexpected blend of saffron, coriander, cedar, and vetiver. There was also something salty there, and i swear i could also smell jatamansi / spikenard.

Very gradually the flowers began to emerge, peeking around the woods and spices. No one floral scent stood out clearly. As they got stronger, they remained a general rich floral tone beneath the woods and spices, softening them, but not taking their place, joined by an undercurrent of animal scent. Many contemporary perfumes use far too much musk, but this has exactly the right amount.

Even after dry-down, the scent remained as it had been once the florals and musk joined in. "Agent Provocateur" also has good staying power.

It is a relief to get a very contemporary perfume that doesn't smell like little girl candy, fruit salad, and vanilla. I want to smell special, not like a dessert table. Agent Provocateur definitely doesn't smell like any other perfume i've tried and i am so glad!

I haven't felt this excited about a perfume in a long time. If i could, i would give it MORE than 5 stars and MORE than one thumb up.

This is Christopher Brosius's re-invention of the classic men's eau de cologne, back when that term represented a very specific blend of aromatics. They tend to be citrusy, herbal, and light.

CB's has a strong base lacking from the classics. It surprised me with its intensity and its deep heaviness. But i like that. Mmm-mmm-mmm.

I recently bought the little sample pack of Caswell-Massey's men's colognes for my friend, since he wants a scent to go along with his new fashion style. It's a good deal, since it contains 5 classics.

Tricorn is his favorite. It has an aroma of sandalwood with spices and a hint of florals. It is *very* sweet, probably too much vanilla. It's not particularly sophisticated, but not unpleasant.

I'm happy he likes it It's too sweet and simple for my taste, but, hey, i'm not wearing it. And it isn't bad, just not outstanding or as complex as i prefer. I think i'd like it more if the sandalwood was stronger and the overall scent was woodier and less vanilla or whatever is giving it its sweetness.

"Wild Hunt" is described on the CD I Hate Perfume website as:
"the scent of an ancient forest in the heat of a summer afternoon. It is a blend of Torn Leaves, Crushed Twigs, Flowing Sap, Fallen Branches, Old Leaves, Green Moss, Fir, Pine and Tiny Mushrooms."

The opening fragrance is indeed earthy and woody. It is followed by the scent of fir and pine. Next i get hints of spices, although i can't identify which. After this come rich seductive flowers, not strong, but somewhat heady, while the spice and woods remain. I hoped for something earthier, but i like the blend of flowers and woods.

On me "Just Breathe" opens green and leafy, as i hoped. But within seconds it shifted to rich floral; i get hits of gardenia and jasmine. Now i love gardenia, and jasmine is good too, but i had hoped for something green and woody with just a hint of floral sweetness.

One-half hour after applying, it is still richly floral - it reminds me of "Fracas", which i wear, but not quite as heavy or complex. I'm sure it will change again...

An hour later it dried down to a gentle green plus floral incense.

Two hours later, it is still green and floral, but now i can smell the woods, which are subtle but grounding.

This is an intimate fragrance, and, on me, quite feminine.

I'll certainly wear this, it is quite lovely. But not as i had expected, something green and woody with a hint of floral. Rather it was seductively floral with only a hint of green and woody.

Violet "Empire" is described on the CB I Hate Perfume website as:
"Blended from CB Violet Empress [Christopher Brosius's own accord], Elemi, Violet Leaf Absolute, Rosewood, Mahogany, and Russian Leather. Violet Empire is an unusual yet very elegant perfume. The violet scent perpetually peeps out from behind a shining green veil."

At first it disappointed me. It was darker and earthier than i had expected. I like dark and earthy scents, but i was hoping for a bit more Violet. As i wore it, however, it changed, as layer after layer of scent was revealed, and in the end i was captivated by it, dark, leather, wood, hiding a shy hint of sweet violet. I'm sure it will smell very different on everyone who wears it.