Reviews

Reviews by machula

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Yvresse / Champagne by Yves Saint Laurent

don't be fooled - despite the peach and apricot opening combo, this is a full-fledged chypre. the opening is clearly peachy; the peach is rather jamy (though not sweet), nicely supported by cumin in the background. the cumin in yvresse is not as animalic and 'sweaty' as in mcqueen's kingdom, it rounds up the peach and gives it a nice, deep aspect. the fruitiness then steps back a little (but never fully disappears, followed by a hint of rose) and the classic chypre notes become more prominent, claiming the territory to make sure nobody confuses this nice little thing with a fruity floral (according to the notes, there is also carnation and cinnamon, but I didn't really get these two). the scent doesn't really change that much, its development is rather subdued.
as a whole, it reminds me of a good white white, a bit bubbly but not really dry like champagne should be. to my nose, this is a very optimistic and cheerful scent. if you love traditional chypres and unusual twists, try this. one of my favourites.
27th October, 2009

Trophée Lancôme by Lancôme

although marketed as masculine, speaking for myself, trophee can be easily worn by a woman, too. it is a potent green chypre with balls (pun intended) along the lines of best of chypre tradition. it has strong presence, but is not offensive and the lasting power is a dream. it starts out as crisp and lemony, followed by a hint of basil and the freshness is subdued into more sensual territory by jasmine, to settle later into a (still) fresh woody and green drydown. a perfect scent for spring and summer. thumbs up and thanks lancome for reintroducing it!
29th May, 2009

Aomassaï 10 by Parfumerie Generale

absolutely lovely, thought not for everyone. suitable for colder months (i've already worn it during summer and it's fine, but the colder months and wool scarves and pullovers let the scent stand out more). imagine gourmand caramel paired with burning leaves and maybe a hint of dark bitter chocolate and woods.
27th August, 2008
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Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

lately, i've taken to masculine marketed scents, this is one of them. smells like a wet road, spicy, fresh with oranges, black pepper and vetiver. edgy, definitely unisex
27th August, 2008

Almond Blossom Dew by L'Occitane

very comforting, smooth, and warm, not to sweet, almondy through and through and delicious, stays close to skin (it is in fact a fluid to be applied like body milk). love it. my autumn staple, would be nice if l'occitane made a "real" scent of this
27th August, 2008

Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo

a nice salty marine scent, with a hint of sweetness in the drydown, i originally give it to my brother but later took it back because i like it so much. spicy but not in an overpowering way. lovely for the summer, close your eyes and smell the ocean breeze...
27th August, 2008

Je Reviens by Worth

this is in fact clean and crisp, and well done, but to me, it reminds me of furniture polish (in fact it is a bot woody, but not in a dark way, plus some powder and flowers). I understand it is a classic but i can't wear it, no matter what.
27th August, 2008

Antilope by Weil

i tested the EdC version, bought off ebay for a few bucks literally - it's dry as the dried out grass in a savanah, the dry land soaken with harsh sun, conjures meryl streep in out of africa somehow. it's aldehydic (as calchic mentiones above, chamomile! rarely seen in perfumes, gives it again a ceratin dryness and warmth), and never sweet. to sum it up, elegant, dry and sunny, never overpowering (given the tested concentration, stays close to skin)
27th August, 2008

Balmain de Balmain by Pierre Balmain

for me, this fragrance was an instant love relationship. i can understand jale saying it's too masculine and not liking it. it is not for everybody. acting wisely and not draining my wallet, i first ordered a mini of balmain. upon the very first sniff it was clear, this is a fragrance thought for a chic and independent french lady in a casual yet sophisticated white shirt. at least that's what came to my mind. the fragrance is daring, miles away from being ordinary, a wonderful chypre for all those that like to make a subtle yet powerful statement about what they like. it does in deed, smell a tiny bit like a man's fragrance at first, but that gives way to subtler florals, and to my nose, the drydown reminded me a tad of chanel's cristalle. it opens with galbanum, making it green, and bergamot, black pepper (which is probably making it smell 'manly' to me although i'm new to the world of fragrances and still don't master all the nuances...). the heart is more to the feminine liking with its subtle jasmine, heart, violetts and iris. with its floral heart gently lingering, the fragrance takes on its woody aspects thanks to moss, santal, patchouli and vetiver (lovely btw). to wrap it up, it is classy and very fresh. a hidden treasure ;)
10th July, 2007

L'Oranger Neroli by L'Occitane

after a while i revisited our local l'occitane shop and decided to sample all the neroli/orange fragrances they had. lately, i've been a sucker for all stuff neroli/orange, although some people hate neroli (say it makes them nauseated) and oranges too (who wants to smell like damn oranges?), i love it; it's positive, uplifting, light yet seductive and deep. my first spriz was their latest addition - ruban d'orange, smells happy, sunny, just like oranges. the second one i sampled was l'eau d'oranger (although the shop assistant told me last fall that this was is discontinued, they still have a considerable number of bottles here in europe, so who knows), this was something in between, neroli and orange, definitely the most 'masculine' of the three. while ruban settled into sweet amber, oranger still retained a somewhat sharp, crisp edge that would not go away, somehow salty and a tad bitter to me (no wonder, it's an 'oranger'). a strictly linear affair, but still, i like it. the third one was the neroli edp, dark, resinuous liquid, immediately after application, it was a blast. i thought, oh boy, is this strong, almost overpowering. but then, it settled and evolved into a very smooth, seductive fragrance, the neroli flower mingled with something sweet (vanilla? tonka bean?), which made it perfect. as previously said, applied judiciously, it's heavenly. the lasting power of all three is good, and as a matter of course, all three are different. i think i'm going to buy all of them ;)
25th March, 2007

Sunflowers by Elizabeth Arden

i loved it when i was a teenager, as calchic wrote, it is exactly the smell of the colour yeallow has in my imagination. i liked that it conveys an unmistakeable feeling of happines, sunrays, and i adored the cantaloup component in it. hm, having said that, i think i should revisit it...
05th December, 2006