| | Basic Instinct by Victoria's SecretThis is so 80s, so big-hair, so sequins and stilettos. Sharing the same name as the Sharon Stone film, you should get an idea about what this juice is about. It screams sex. Not sexy sex...more like porn-star sex or fake boob sex or Kardashian sex. It is not subtle AT ALL. The sillage is monstrous, and the frag literally SCREAMS its orchid/wine/wood /plum composition at anyone within range. 11th November, 2011. |
| | Palas Atena by Ayala MorielAn understatedly gorgeous scent, Palas Atena's cinnamon note is what makes this perfume so intriguing and interesting. If I could compare this cinnamon note to anatomy, it is the psoas muscle, connecting heaven and earth (the upper body to the lower body). The cinnamon pulls the sweet top notes earthward while lifting the earthy patchouli, sandal and amber heavenward. Palas Atena constantly shifts between these realms...heaven and earth...with the cinnamon constantly adjusting to shifts in body chemistry (just as the psoas constantly adjusts to shifts in posture and locomotion). This is also a lasting scent of exceptionally high quality. A "natural perfumer" who makes everything in small batches using natural botanical essences, Ayala Moriel's skill (at crafting perfumes and sourcing ingredients) is on full display with this warm, rich, intriguing floral-oriental. I agree with Purplebird7 that this is almost a chypre: I believe it's the cinnamon that gives it that shimmering, shifting, mysterious quality. 10th May, 2010. |
| | Alien by Thierry MuglerAmbivalence. Depending on weather, body chemistry, and amount sprayed, Alien can be either delightfully floral, warm, and woody or overpoweringly vanillic, sweet and synthetic. Today it was the latter, and when it manifests like this on me, I really don't like it. On gentler days, Alien has a synthetic, metallic quality which can appear as gasoline, lighter fluid, or acetone. This adds an intriguing edge. 28th April, 2010. |
| | Gold by Donna KaranEDP: rich, very spicy, and round. This is walking through a spice market with a bundle of lilies in your arms, on a temperate day, where large rugs woven of raw silk hang in the breeze. I don't detect any cucumber notes on dry down, perhaps because I tested the EDP instead of the EDT. The fragrance has monster sillage and is very loud in the first hour, but on my skin, settles down and becomes a skin scent after the very brash opening. The 2nd half of the frag is not as interesting as the opening. The lilies settle down and amber and spice remain, with just a floral whisper remaining. 5th April, 2010. |
| | B*Men by Thierry MuglerBizarre. Magnetic, but not sure if in a good way. Makes you lean in and smell, not because it's so alluring but because you wonder "what on God's green earth IS that?!" Extremely masculine. In this respect, I prefer it over all those wimpy aquatics and ozone scents, but I can't say B*Men actually smells good. I get spice and BO. I think the fruit and rhubarb plays like sour, slightly decomposed fruit. It's sharp, it's acrid, it makes you wrinkle your nose. This stuff is powerful. Outlasts scrubs, time, and possibly nuclear holocaust. A cool weather fragrance, I respect the noses for their outlandish composition and their defiance in the face of the aquatic army, but I am not sure I would want to snuggle up to B*Men. I am truly ambivalent. My nose does not like this, but my mind appreciates B*Men's in-your-face manliness and refusal to follow the aquatic/ozonic aesthetic. 2nd April, 2010. |
| | Manifesto by Isabella RosselliniI love Isabella Rossellini but I don't love her "Manifesto," despite the heart-felt copy that went along with my sample. Her manifesto is that the small, daily things are true luxuries: meals cooked at home with loved ones, fresh herbs in the garden outdoors. Despite this nice back-story, her scent wore very literally on me, and after application I felt like I had just spent an hour in the kitchen cooking. The basil and black pepper were powerful, and the base notes only seemed to elevate this kitchen scent into full-on funk. I was perplexed by this composition and rather glad when it was over. Lasting power was a few hours, but the opening and middle scenes really did smell like the after-effects of cooking a meal. 2nd April, 2010. |
| | L - L.A.M.B by Gwen StefaniFirst received a sample of this in Sephora shortly after launch. It was May and I wore it to several parties and garnered a slew of compliments, from "wow, sexy!" to "hmmm what's that interesting scent?" L.A.M.B is rather unusual. It's synthetic, but not sneeze-inducing or plastic-y. Imagine a bowl of plastic fruit covered with a layer of dust, sitting in the window of some cute, kitschy, L.A. girl's apartment. She burns lots of musk and jasmine incense and probably has some macrame in her apartment but when she goes out at night, it's all sleekness and modernity. This scent is very modern, but thankfully goes against the grain of all the white florals and pink chypres by adding a little heft: the fruit is almost like spoiled fruit, just a bit beyond ripe, and that sour edge adds some interest. I like this juice for its unexpected quality: it certainly doesn't smell like anything else even though it is accessible. It's quite like Gwen Stefani herself, a woman who made a name for herself being that cute, alt-rocker LA girl who later became a sexy LA woman but kept that alt-rocker vibe about her and let other alt girls know it was ok to be yourself. I like this double-sidedness to the scent, and find it appropriate for daytime, weekends, after-work and even night if it is warm out. Spring/summer only though. I like the bottle design but agree the large bottle (which I own) is a bit of a paperweight. 25th March, 2010. |
| | Only The Brave by DieselSynthetic, cloying, and wholly uninteresting, I'd heard about "the new Diesel that looks like a fist." I find the whole concept poorly executed, from package design (silly block fonts...looks like something a high schooler would make) to this rediculous fist to the scent therein, this is a mass market fragrance designed to appeal to meatheads and frat-boys and the girls who love them. I'm so disappointed my current favorite male wanted this; perhaps he hadn't had a chance to smell the watery, synthetic lemon and cedarwood blend before making that claim. The lemon and leather smell horribly synethetic and don't do each other any justice. Add in the amber base and you have a long-lasting plasticy scent with medium throw in an ugly bottle that should not be worn by anyone over 23. Horrid. 23rd July, 2009. |
| | Habanita by MolinardI think Habanita all comes down to the body chemistry. I do get the baby powder note, quite intensely for a rather long time, but when the drydown finally comes, Habanita turns into a complex little burner on me: smoky, tabacco-y, dark and sexy. The powdery note keeps this scent from becoming too dark, but this is one you have to be able to carry off, lest it carry you off. 23rd July, 2009. |
| | Jolie Madame by Pierre BalmainJolie Madame smells so retro. That makes it even more modern because it doesn't smell like it's "trying" to be retro. This is just an older formula that is as relevant as ever today (especially as we drown in white florals and "pink chypres"). 26th April, 2007. |
| | Cuba by Czech & SpeakeAbsolutely fabulous, and smells like nothing else out there! Cuba starts and stays a rich tobacco scent. The first hour or two, Cuba is fresh, moist tobacco, fontal leaf to be exact, with the smell of damp cool earth and rain clinging to the leaves. As the scent wears on, something bizarre happens: it tranforms completely, leaving behind the amazingly realistic live tobacco leaf scent for something far more complex and interesting. 13rd April, 2007. |
| | Marc Jacobs by Marc JacobsRather linear, this potent gardenia/honeysuckle scent is very feminine and incredibly long-lasting. Vaguely reminiscent of Guerlain Mahora's treatment of fragipani + tuberose, Marc Jacobs has a similarly heady quality, best for summer evenings or, alternatively, cold winter nights wearing a sexy black cashmere sweater. 13rd April, 2007. |
| | Princess by Vera WangMy BF gave me this frag for Christmas and I try to wear it because I love him so, but I just...can't. I really hate this fragrance, from the juvenile purple juice to the girly heart-shaped bottle to the absolutely vile crown top (that doubles as, oh dear!, a ring). I hate everything this fragrance stands for: the dumbing down of fragrance; the cult of celebrity (this fragrance is the olfactory equivalent of Paris Hilton); obsession with youth; focus group-created product. 11th April, 2007. |
| | Spiced Green Tea by Elizabeth ArdenImagine my surprise when I discovered this was created by Francis Kurkdijan, the nose behind my (almost HG) beloved Gaultier 2! 10th April, 2007. |
| | Comme des Garçons 2 Man by Comme des GarçonsI'm a big CdG fan, but this one falls flat for me. I'm willing to try again, but I found it rather derivative, both of other CdG scents, and other lines' creations as well. I got a very synthetic opening, which wouldn't surprise me from the house that made "Tar," "Garage," and a line inspired by sherbert. 9th April, 2007. |
| | Green Irish Tweed by CreedI have little experience with Creeds so I'm willing to accept that my nose hasn't acclimated to this house's perculiarities. That said, however, I was nonplussed by GIT. It came across as so polite, so safe, so...boring. I had almost no reaction to it other than to find it completely and utterly inoffensive. 9th April, 2007. |
| | Greyland by MontaleOne of the manliest scents I've ever smelled, Greyland starts with a strong opening of cumin, cedar, and leather. The cumin is very pronounced in the first phase of this scent, and at times is so pungent it reminds me of a Pakistani cab stand at shift change: full of hairy, sweaty men eating hot, spicy food. 5th April, 2007. |
| | Animale by Animale ParfumsAnimale just suits me, and I am complimented everytime I wear it (probably more so than with any other scent). This is a multi-faceted, interesting, arresting scent that is absolutely sexy and very hard to ignore. The oakmoss base anchors this chypre and gives it a powerful elegance that lifts it out of the typical heady oriental category and helps it stand on its own eccentric feet. 5th April, 2007. |
| | Sugar Lychee by FreshI plan on getting this for the springtime. It's a lovely, sparkling scent that, to me, is a dead ringer for a mojito. The citrus top notes are fresh and effervescent without being too sweet. The mid notes off lotus flower and freesia settle the soprano of the top notes down ever so slightly and the tonka/sandalwood base (I do not detect much amber) give this refreshing scent rather unexpected longevity. I expect in warmer weather the longevity and projection to be even better than it was in winter, when I tested it. A great vacation scent! 12nd February, 2007. |
| | Pure Cédrat by AzzaroPerhaps never have I experienced a scent that has a drydown so incredibly different from the topnotes. The top is all warm yellow citrus, lovely, sparkly, and bright. Within about 20 minutes, the drydown takes over leaving almost nothing of the citris top (citrus notes are notoriously volatile). Too bad, as I would LOVE to have this scent last for longer, especially for spring/summer months. It's a nice scent, but I think the drydown is a bit too masculine for my taste. Granted, it's a men's scent, so I'd imagine for a guy it's just right. 8th February, 2007. |
| | Pure Lavande by AzzaroThis opens with a very sharp lavender, which gives way quickly to a synthetic-smelling middle and base of powdery vanilla and musk. Powerful sillage and not of the good kind either. 8th February, 2007. |
| | Talisman by BalenciagaPerhaps it's the beeswax absolute that makes this scent so marvelously creamy. Talisman has the perfect balance of sweetness: it's got a melt-on-your-skin quality thatn is so attractive, I feel feminine and tender when wearing this. 7th February, 2007. |
| | Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'EmpireInteresting. My experience was totally unlike robyogi's. On me, Cuir Ottoman is redolent smoky styrax (I thought castoreum at first), gasoline, and leather. It smells like hot asphalt being laid down by hot sweaty workmen in leather coveralls. Not to say this is a bad scent ;) 5th February, 2007. |
| | L'Insolent by Charles JourdanCreated by Max Gavarry, the same nose who created Prada, D&G Pour Femme and Pour Homme and several others, I don't understand why this lovely perfume was ever discontinued. 31st January, 2007. |
| | Rosewood by Banana RepublicInteresting that this frag would be called Rosewood as the official notes (according to bananarepublic.com) are champagne bergamot, white amber, and white tea. 16th January, 2007. |
| | Patchouly by ProfumumThis is the dirtiest patchouli I've ever smelled. Patchouli's not exactly the cleanest scent, but this is like patchouli encrusted in wet dirt. There's some smokiness here that's present right from first application, and to me the sandalwood smells more "woody" than "sandalwood" to me. Although I'm not a huge fan of patchouli, this one scores points for being different than most. This potent scent clings to the skin. Nuetral because it's not for me, but I can respect it standing apart from a typical patchouli. Longevity is outstanding. I woke up with this still going rather strong on my wrists. 28th December, 2006. |
| | Ta'If by Ormonde JayneThis is the second Ormonde Jayne fragrance I've tested and they both have very poor longevity on me. Ta'if sounds great on paper, but worn it smells exactly like Cacharel's Amor Amor. It's a very "red" scent: the roses are honeyed up with the addition of dates; the spicy pink pepper and saffron top notes hint at something mysterious, lasting, and complex. Too bad that doesn't pan out. 18th December, 2006. |
| | Lucifer No. 3 by Damien BashThe ylang-ylang top note is strong in this one. This scent plays out mostly floral on me, without the dark or spicy 14th December, 2006. |
| | Frankincense by Demeter Fragrance LibraryThis singular note Frankincense lasted all of 30 minutes on me with practically zero sillage. I suppose it is best qualified as a skin scent, as you'd have to practically have your nose in my neck to get any hint of this very lightweight frag. 12nd December, 2006. |
| | Néblina by Yves RocherIt seems YR is re-releasing or re-marketing this fragrance. Its nearly lime green color makes one think of an green scent, but the florals in this one are very strong. I would have preferred a bit more roundedness in this scent, as it is quite overwhelmingly floral, and very angular at that. There is little subtlety to this one. 8th December, 2006. |
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