Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Andrewthecologneguy

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Total Reviews: 821

Wave 2 for Him by Hollister

California air. What is that??? Must be that melony accord that dominated in the late 2000s...think Kenneth Cole Reaction, Nautica Voyage and others. It is presented here on steroids. Sillage monster for the first hour then it settles down. Works in warmer climes and suits the target demographic quite well (18 - 24 surfer/beachy types).
10th November, 2017

Oud 24 Hours by Ard Al Zafraan

Yes, it is TF Black Orchid.
No oud, so I don't know what's up with the name.
That said, I don't know why anyone would buy the TF when this exists, especially at the cost difference.
Very strong, so be careful especially in the summer time. I prefer it in the winter.

One note: there are nuanced differences between this and Black Orchid, but very hard to tell.
09th November, 2017

Strictly Jil Sander by Jil Sander

What a gem this is!
Takes ordinary and ubiquitous notes and presents them in a way that is irresistible. The notes listing is nothing new, has been done many times especially by Italian houses. The difference here is the restraint applied to the notes so no one note is overpowering. That is until you get to the dry down where most fragrances fall flat or disappear into a whisper. Here the cedarwood presents well, flanked nicely by more than traces of the opening a heart notes.
Seek this one out. Highly recommended.

(Sampled in the winter over 6 days; average temp was 7.5 degrees Celsius)
08th November, 2017
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This is Him! by Zadig & Voltaire

This is one of those fragrances that rely on dissonance. It smells like WD40 with a hint of diesel having a raucous with vanilla.
Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille immediately comes to mind because of the same dissonance. It is almost not like-able but the more you smell the more you want to smell it and then you're in. Hoooked.

It is not for the wearer, but rather for those who will be around the wearer. The aura is beautiful indeed...intriguing and charming. Sexy.

Worth a sniff, requires full wear test.
07th November, 2017

Trussardi Uomo The Red by Trussardi

It is unmistakably Trussardi Uomo, but it is not great. Nothing special about it, and not as red as the name and bottle would have you believe. It's strength is simultaneously its weakness: the connection to Trussardi Uomo. The concept might work for the original version versus the new launched version. Overall for me, no thank you.
07th November, 2017

Oriental Essence Collection : Bleu Byzantin by Rituals

I wanted to love this, but I can only like it. Not as bold and in your face as the other Oriental Essence Collection offerings, it comes across a bit generic.
Mint/juniper/pine combo would have been nice with a woody base to anchor it all. Instead it is a little too fresh and dare I say juvenile? Still worth a sniff if not full bottle worthy.
07th November, 2017

Oriental Essence Collection : Maharaja d'Or by Rituals

My favorite from this house.
So simple, yet so wow.
You are immediately transported to the far east, with a blast of cardamom accentuated by pine. The patchouli holds it all together and the effect delivers a one two punch.
Name to jus is perfect, just like the other offerings for this house.
Would command far more money were it launched by the likes of Montale or Tom Ford.
Thumbs enthusiastically up!
07th November, 2017

Oriental Essence Collection : Sultan de Muscat by Rituals

I was fortunate to come across this house at K in Lautern.
I sampled a few of the offerings and I am quite impressed.
Niche-y with an attractive home-made edge, all the scents I sampled made me want to purchase a bottle at first sniff.

SdM is a big, spicy, deep, layered jus. And it is luxurious, which for the price point is quite remarkable. Name to jus is very much on point, with nutmeg being the center but well dressed in other fragrant notes and perched on a patch/leather combo that is simply creative.

Seek this out and try it. Thumbs up!
07th November, 2017

Twilly d'Hermès by Hermès

I sampled this because I was drawn to the whimsy of the bottle. Big and chunky with bright playful colors, the almost caricature bottle (compared to other Hermes bottles of the like) foretells of a not so serious fragrance, and the jus does not disappoint in that aspect.
Simple, straight forward without being so serious...again compared to the Hermes standard. Perfect for a younger demographic, including those young at heart.
Mildly spicy opening with a candy heart and a woody base makes it a perfect intro fragrance or a summer fling.
07th November, 2017

A*Men Kryptomint by Thierry Mugler

I don't like it.

I find Ice Men and Summer Flash much better for a minty A Men. Granted, these don't have mint, but they are both hesperidic, which I think works with the choco gourmand theme better than mint.
But then again I have never enjoyed mint and chocolate or coffee, so...
07th November, 2017

Chrome Pure by Azzaro

Perhaps my expectation was higher than it should have been...I like Chrome and I love Chrome Intense, ditto Sport and the summer varieties.
This opens vague. I get some anise-like quality and nothingness. Very much like Kenzo Air.
Then some woody and musky properties show up.
In cold weather it is underwhelming. In warm weather I think it would shine. But it pales in comparison to Chrome and Chrome Intense.
07th November, 2017

Legend Night by Montblanc

I was hesitant to try this, being that designers have been flanker happy these days.

Pleasant surprise to find a better than expected execution!

The apple, vanilla and cardamom make for a gourmand overtone on the regular Legend, making the jus more dynamic and better. Just like the Intense and Limited Edition versions are an improvement, this Night version is yet another improvement.

This is my favorite of the line.
06th November, 2017

Missoni Parfum pour Homme by Missoni

I have been let down by most of the releases in the last 5 years.
MPPH seems to take all of the recent releases, sports flankers and all, and roll it into one cohesive, definitive just of the 20-teens.

You could replace about a dozen colognes with this awesomeness from Missioni.
I intend to do just that.

Cheers!
02nd November, 2017
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Y by Yves Saint Laurent

Finally got a chance to play with Y.

***This is the jus of an in-tune and mature millennial***

Same goes for Mr. Burberry.

I would have given it a Neutral or Thumbs down like everyone else so far if I had not first encountered Mr. Burberry last year.

Like millennials, this type of fragrance requires time...and you might have to overspray to get into it.
Millennials have an understanding that seem completely different than the previous generations.

In character and demeanor, millennials are slightly woody, sweet, feminine (the white aldehydes) and spicy (ginger); traits that would irritate most sensibilities because it is hard to tell what they are all about at first sniff.

This, is the *new* masculine.


02nd November, 2017

JetLag by Azzaro

A rare one this, but the jus is not so rare. The pepper and citrus opening comes across as guava and leaf to me. It quickly settles to a green scent with matte finish blockiness. The patchouli is hard to find, I think it would have added even more depth. Tea shows up later to spare you from boredom.

Office scent for a confident but not flamboyant man.
01st November, 2017

Uomo by Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore decides to offer a Thierry Mugler A Men flanker and call it his own.
This composition is quite familiar: sweet woody vanillaic. Add a salty spiciness for Ferragamo weirdness or Italian charm, your choice.
Not a bad fragrance in and of itself, since it does stand out in that tonka bean based gourmand-for-men genre of masculine fragrances.
01st November, 2017

Voyager by Aramis

Body Kouros and Bulgari Blu Notte re-released for profit sake. Does not smell bad, but begs the question, why?

Baby powdery soft edges that is very generic and not worth a full bottle. Hardly the Aramis of yore.
01st November, 2017

Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa by Acqua di Parma

It takes time to love this one.
It is a more intense and in your face version of the original, but a very interesting thing happens: it appears to be almost a knock off of an old school barbershop power house, ir at least a shell of such a fragrance.
That will put some people off, especially if you already have a few bottles that nicely occupy that slot without being shy.
The price point of the AdP offering then makes it harder to love. There is a dunhill (Dunhill For Men, 1934) that does this jus fantastically well, but I find it too much sometimes. The AdP CI jus is restrained in comparison and wears better. But I might as well just apply less jus of the dunhill no?
29th October, 2017

Colonia Intensa Oud Concentrée / Colonia Oud Concentrée by Acqua di Parma

Oud in and of itself can be off-putting. Taming oud is art. AdP has done that and done it exceptionally well. While it is obviously a 'managed' oud, you get a very accurate oud that has been cleaned up to be appealing. And it is VERY appealing, garnering nothing but compliments. A contender for the perfect westernized oud for sure.
29th October, 2017

Bottega Veneta pour Homme Parfum by Bottega Profumiera

Listed under Bottega Profumiera versus Bottega Veneta, I wonder if there has been a change at the helm at Veneta.

This is the one I prefer of the 3 (EdT, Extreme being the other 2). If you consider a proper Italian fragrance to be bolder and brighter than the average, you will like this flanker better too. I like the apparent simplicity though not a linear jus. You get that fat dose of fir balsam chilling on raw hide leather mellowed out ever so slightly by tonka. Just nice.
29th October, 2017

Bottega Veneta Essence Aromatique pour Homme by Bottega Veneta

This is hard to love. It can smell like you applied Vicks for a sore back or muscles. Once it settles down then it shines but just a bit. Some might find it absolutely irresistible while others will hate it.
29th October, 2017

Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Extrême by Bottega Veneta

A truly 'more' version of the original. No one note is highlighted over the other or expressed excessively like other brands tend to do when the Extreme moniker is applied.
Some might not like it if the balance of the original is perfect to you. It is to me, but I also enjoy the 'fresh burst' aromatic nature of extreme version.
29th October, 2017

Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme by Gucci

If you've been looking forward to the day a designer brand will launch a truly unapologetic masculine jus, then you are in luck: GGA is it.

This is what Fahrenheit was back when it was launched. Crude, rude and in your face but oh so manly, Guilty Absolute is absolutely guilty of being rough around the edges yet desirable at the same time. You know, like that guy you love to hate but wish you had his aura? Yeah, him.

Love it.
29th October, 2017

Kenzo World by Kenzo

Bottle is creative.

The jus? Everything Darvant said.

On the right woman this is pure sexy.

It is not unique though, but the Kenzo style shines through which means longevity is decent, projection normal.

I dig it.
29th October, 2017

Pure XS by Paco Rabanne

Paco Rabanne's variation on the Dylan Blue, Chanel Bleu and Dior Sauvage theme. Not as bombastic as Bleu, not as magnetic as Sauvage and not as synthetic as the Versace, a jus that is all these combined and dialed back a bit for posterity sake.

I like it because it is simply more wearable. I don't like the vanilla in there but the ladies were gaga over that so...

Worth a sniff/buy/full bottle if you do not already have the aforementioned or if you do not like them.
28th October, 2017

L'Eau Majeure d'Issey by Issey Miyake

As Jasper mentioned, a throwback for some of the old hats in this hobby. I instantly got Givenchy Pour Homme from 2002 with the red plastic facade and it's Blue Label brother launched 2 years later.
Davidoff's Echo is in there as well.
The Eau D'Issey part does not come out until several hours later, leaving you with nothing but linear yet mineral sheer woody with a metallic edge. It does fit the Miyake style and I am not so sure it is unisex.
Either way, thumbs up because it is a delightful jus, would be perfect in the summer and it last quite well.
28th October, 2017

Insurrection II Wild by Reyane

An absolute bargain for an absolutely fantastic jus!

Just read what Darvant wrote. You know he is a strong critic and he recommends it, so...

Back-up bottle worth. A must for fall/winter! Both sexes will be drawn to you, so spray wisely :)
14th September, 2017

Tom Ford Noir Anthracite by Tom Ford

Finally!
A true and worthy successor to the mighty Macassar by Rochas! :)
TFNA has a slight reliance on sandalwood and patchouli but overall fantastic! Wahooo!
27th July, 2017

14 Rossetto by Prada

What a find!
I bought this for my layering and mixing. I have ventured into the feminine jus creation and I love this as a dash of modern (carefree sexy) femininity. It is playful and serious simultaneously. Almost like "if you want to hang with me, you have to accept all that comes with me". Which could mean trying on shoes and bras for hours.

As a stand alone I think it might be too much girly woman some circles, but gosh is it inventive and inspiring.
27th May, 2017

11 Cuir Styrax by Prada

I avoided the numbered Pradas much like some avoided the numbered D&G. I go back now and I am enamored by the line. Ditto for the D&G by the way.
So this is supposed to be a spicy leather and it is basically what you get, but well done. Prada was actually trying with this one :) Synthetic without a doubt but overall, I find it cuts through the ubiquity of the fake woody note in almost every masculine launch of recent.
If you can find it, get it and keep it. Wear it sparingly, to help reset your nose. Careful though, it is addictive.
27th May, 2017