Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Andrewthecologneguy

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Total Reviews: 950

1981 Indigo for Men by Guess

Not sure what 'Indigo' is all about here.
A step back from the original launched barely a year ago.

This is a mess of synthetics. Has been jus with mediocre sillage and performance. A pass for me.

Is indigo the new trend? Quick search shows it has been used as a flanker descriptor as far back as 2009 with Kenzo. A resurgence in 2018 perhaps with at least 3 other launches (Joseph Aboud, Burberry, etc...)

14th August, 2018

Polo Ultra Blue by Ralph Lauren

I love Polo Blue, and I love the EdP version as well.
Ultra Blue is simply another take, one that has a mineral oily quality without the full effect of the melon in the original.

Ultra is quite clever as well, versus the ubiquitous adjectives being used today. However, I don' know what ultra means in this context, since it is NOT an extreme version of Polo Blue.

This is the version to get if you don't want to be in your face about your fragrance. I prefer the original though...first love type of thing.
14th August, 2018

Polo Red Rush by Ralph Lauren

Breaking with its every 2 years release a Polo Red flanker tradition, Red Rush arrives a year early in 2018 instead of 2019.
Red=2013 Red Intense = 2015 Red Extreme = 2017

Red Rush is is a test of a new adjective: Rush; ditto Ultra for the Polo Blue line. First use as a flanker descriptor in fragrance history I believe; question is, will other brands follow?

On to the jus: yes, there is a clear connection to Polo Red. But I couldn't help but think, is this flanker necessary? Intense is just that, an intense version of Red. Extreme is quite bold, presenting as an EdP with bombastic sillage and projection. Juicy and delicious too.

Rush is a tamer version not unlike the way Polo Ultra Blue is a more transparent yet 'oily' version of the original.

Red Rush may work for those who did not like the original, and that's the point: here's another version so we can take your money. A pass for me. Polo Red Extreme is the one to get.
14th August, 2018
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Jimmy Choo Man Blue by Jimmy Choo

3rd flanker and 4th release by J Choo for men.
Blue follows in the footsteps of the previous flanker (Ice) by presenting a citrus (bergamot) in the opening; but it is not as aclean and fresh or intense as the trio you get with Ice.

Instead, sage and pepper subdue the citrus, creating a pencil shavings vibe as it settles. It seems promising until the CK Obsession-like sandalwood and vetiver combo that ruins it in my opinion.

I don't find it 'blue' at all; I would have used the adjective 'Night' as it is more sensual than sporty (assuming blue is sporty).

Overall a decent flanker that does not stray too much from the bunch. Ice is still my favorite for its bright sunny character, that has nothing to do with Ice, go figure.
I am starting to think the adjectives are all wrong for Jimmy Choo so far...
14th August, 2018

Calvin Klein Women by Calvin Klein

Tried this today and I love it.
Very much the avant garde experiemntal modernist/futuristic abstract style as presented in CK One, Be, and most of the rest of that line.

It is synthetic, no bones about it, but in a tongue-in-cheek trying to imitate nature kind of way.

At first sniff, there is an attractive iso super molecule type of vibe that immediately draws you in. This is layered with basic household detergent and bitter citrus.

The jus transforms as it wears, finally revealing a sexy clean minty cedary goodness, a bang-on copy of DKNY Energy for women in the trapezoidal prism bottle.

I hope this becomes a hit. Smells so different and much better than most of today's offerings.

Easily a signature scent.
14th August, 2018

360 Degrees Blue for Men by Perry Ellis

Drakkar Noir but with a twist. It is not weak as some have said. The twist in this case seems like an attempt tp freshen it up some, maybe to modernize the classic Drakkar? Either way, there are better alternatives but this isn't totally bad, just pointless.
06th June, 2018

Perry Ellis 18 Intense by Perry Ellis

Easily a flanker of L'Eau D'Issey its so close to the real thing. The icy frosty notes in the Miyake is noticeably absent here so you almost go straight to the dry down with 18 Intnese.
06th June, 2018

Compass by Tommy Bahama

This is a mess to my nose.
I just can't get with it.
I tested in hot weather, maybe that's the issue.
It can't make up its mind..sweet spicy but not cohesively so. Worn several times and no love for me.
06th June, 2018

360 Degrees Green for Men by Perry Ellis

This is lovely. Fahrenheit vetiver tincture in eau de cologne strength

Granted I have been prepped from yesteryear because this smells like something my dad wore 30 years ago except now it is refined and smooth.
It is a green fragrance truly, with 'moss' and 'vetiver' doing a good job of relating with the 'cardamom' very well.
But this is what most people wont be able to get over...yet it is what makes it sexy to my nose. It has a flannel fuzzy feel punctuated by plastic and metal notes that are just as soft. Warm inviting manly masculine with round edges.
06th June, 2018

Classic Gold by Jaguar

This I really like.
Black XS by Paco Rabanne presented slightly differently but 100% love-able.
Frosty berry like sweetness. Glows icy and is very noticeable. Sillage good, longevity not so much.
Worth a sniff, and full bottle worthy at the current prices.
06th June, 2018

L'Insoumis by Lalique

Why does the bottle resemble that of Ferragamo Uomo's?

What a wonderful masculine eau.

The opening is unusual (kinda dark wet, dank maybe?) making you wonder, what is the inspiration behind this?
Like a live show about to begin, the lighting is set before the first scene...the lights might not make sense but as soon as the scene begins it all comes together.
So it is with L'Insoumis...the unruly one.

I was transported back to my childhood when the 'show' began. An opoponax like air, strong and firm, like the defiant negative camber stance of a German sport sedan.

I love this.

A must sniff.
03rd April, 2018

Brit Summer Edition for Men by Burberry

I like this.
If you are looking for summer in the sense of citrus heavy and no longevity, this not it.

It is true to the original but with a stronger spicy note that conveys a freshness that is well, 'refreshing' if not bold.

By today's standards wears like an EdP due to its thickness a la the original it is based on. The powdery notes are dialed back significantly here, much like the discontinued limited edition. The difference is the brightness of this juice.

So summer it is, but much of a British summer, where all the pomp and circumstance does not go away because the sun is shining.
19th March, 2018

Burberry Brit : Limited Edition for Men by Burberry

I had this gem for several years and after trying the newer flankers (Splash, Rhythm) I realized I much preferred this Lim Ed. That's when I realized it was discontinued and now quite hard to find.

It is a deeper, more in your face version; the soft musks swapped for pine-y goodness.

In today's speak it would have been labelled Brit Intense or "Extra"
Worth seeking out as it is very today, come to think of it.
19th March, 2018
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L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Noir Ambré by Issey Miyake

Probably what one of the three wise men must have smelled like.

I appreciate this because of the sheer perfumery that went into this. Ditto the Or Encens flanker also by Christophe Raynaud.

At first sniff, you can tell this isn't some lazy effort of aromachems. Instead, you are greeted with layered depth complete with individual nuance.

Very nichey this, a delight for the nose as the notes dance around and bounce off each other.

In the end, it all concludes somewhat quickly, again lending to a nich like quality. Does not stick around forever like aromachems would. Instead, it performs like there are natural oils and resins at work, including harsh unrounded tones here and there.


25th February, 2018

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Or Encens by Issey Miyake

First sniff: disorderly dark spicy woody oudy ambery; NOT for the faint of nose.

Like Noir Ambre, this is a niche quality fragrance available from a designer. I can see this never dipping below its current offer price; my advice is to buy it if you like it.

It takes a minute to settle on your skin, considering the one-two punch that is the head and mid notes (rose + labdanum to incense and pepper, yikes!).

Would not wear this in the summer: too spicy and dense.
25th February, 2018

Black Bold by Kenneth Cole

A newer, slightly fresher take on the original Bold, 14 years in the making.
Harry Fremont is alone on this one, free from any inputs from Sabine de Tscharner; so I guess you could call it Freemont's take.

The bold moniker is quite fitting as this does presents itself 'louder' than the original. The packaging is nicer to, with a somewhat niche nod.

I would wear this over the original, which I think is too much pencil shavings, at the time of launch was cool and interesting but quite trite by today's standards.

Excellent replacement for KC Black.
25th February, 2018

Obsessed for Men by Calvin Klein

This was a thumbs down for me initially: did not smell like a modern, updated Obsession and it had a lifeless thin quality to it with a weak, feminine floral bent.

Then...I oversprayed and really let it come alive. This is essentially a poor man's Creed Royal Mayfair.
They ar enot the same, but hear me out: they are both new age masculine florals that really are feminine but through the magic of aromachems (ambrox super in this case) deepens and finally starts leaning masculine as it dries.

So, for the new type of man, millenial perhaps, but one that is less concerned about being labelled as masculine or feminine, Obsessed is your jus.
25th February, 2018

Pasha Edition Noire by Cartier

I did not connect this to the original upon first sniff. For me I got the usual dark-woody synthetic drenched in green citrusy notes, and it was boring...until some very interesting incense and spice say hi.

They are so low and late in the sniff you might miss it.

And that is the saving grace for this. Could have been it's own thing, as original Pasha is so unique and different.
At least the Noire tag is not lost in translation, but it is NOT a black version of the original.
22nd February, 2018

Pasha Edition Noire Sport by Cartier

Love at first sniff for me.
Very different from the original and the Noire.

In fact this could have been a stand alone fragrance.

To my nose I get a rhubarb note that is just delicious. Must be the marine notes playing with the melon.

The longevity issue is fixed with overspray, so no real issue there. Is it sporty? Who knows. No one knows what sporty means, but we like it :)

Full bottle for me, worth a sniff for all. It might hook you!
22nd February, 2018

Déclaration Parfum by Cartier

It is a true Parfum of the original.

More of everything, fuller, denser, thicker, rounder.

That is why it is a thumbs up. For those who do not like the original, there is no way they will like this as well.

So, good but bad, not my cup of tea, a respectable jus.
22nd February, 2018

Hugo Urban Journey by Hugo Boss

The bottle is textured, like it is coated in sand.

The jus: nothing new, and not similar to the original.
It is so familiar, your mind will flip through the rolodex of scents you've encountered in the last decade. Reminds of Givenchy Very Irresistable Summer Cocktail with Invictus onboard for the ride.

The good news is that it is not a clone of something launched in the last 3 years that are clones of each other (thinking 1 Million and Eros crowd).

Instead it is a soft, warm, agreeable scent that's youthful. Mildly sweet, vegetal (green) and creamy. Worth a sniff, doubt you will fall in love with it tho.
21st February, 2018 (last edited: 22nd February, 2018)

Artisan Pure by John Varvatos

Wow!

Instant sunshine burst of citrus in a bottle.
Comes across as grapefruit but must be more because that initial blast is so strong and complex.

A true flanker: smells like the original Artisan but engulfed in a bright citrusy mix.

Perfect for hot sunny activities, including beach and other water sports.

Quite nice this!
21st February, 2018

Royal Mayfair by Creed

One of the most daring masculine florals out there.

Problem is there is nothing natural about this, like previous Creeds. Instead it is aromachems, and quite a lazy effort.

You can tell this is mostly aromachems because the reviews are not consistent. Some love it, some hate it. Some smell eucalyptus, (I got none) all I get is tuberose (that lasts forever) after a nasty plasticky clean rubber not in the opening.

You end up liking this...kinda like how your first sniff of most Tom Fords are repulsive then you find yourself addicted.

So be careful. If at first it stinks, wait a few weeks then try it again.

Not for me...too much tuberose.
21st February, 2018

Bentley for Men by Bentley

This is nice. A slightly spicy vegetal leather jus. There was thought, but no imagination as you have seen this before. Thumbs up because it a a car company scent AND it is much better quality than you would expect from such.

Crisp white shirt and quality shoes...for a man who knows how to be.

If you do try it, don't try the intense because you will forget about this one. However, I do see someone liking this instead of the intense version.
21st February, 2018

Bentley for Men Azure by Bentley

For most people, you will love this at first sniff.
For perfume heads, you will bore quickly because you've seen this trick before.

It is all centered around abroxan (orcanox in this application) but nicely lifted in all areas using citrus and yummy fruity notes (pineapple). Then the base is well balanced with notes you love as well.

Overall a nice take on a fresh 'blue' masculine. I'd wear it but not fall in love with it.
21st February, 2018

Bentley for Men Intense by Bentley

The hype is real I suppose, because this is GOOD jus.

Now, on to the reality of it: much like Bentley cars, this is a modern interpretation of true perfumery, made available in abundance and presented buffet style. There is something slightly 'off; here, in that luxury, in and of itself includes exclusivity and rarity.

Can you fault luxury if it is ubiquitous? Should you discount its merits because it is readily available?
21st February, 2018

Encre Noire à l'Extrême by Lalique

This wears like a dark oud fragrance, perhaps due to the patch sandalwood and benzoin combo in the base, a combo some have labeled 'oud accord' for some ouds. The incense and elemi to some extent further this notion.

I really enjoyed wearing this because I am an oud lover, especially the woody and spicy variety. I would have loved for the vetiver to shine through but it only shows up briefly then it is gone.

Extreme is the right term then for this, versus intense. It is not a more voluminous version of the original, instead it is an exploration to the far reaches of black ink.
21st February, 2018

Polo Supreme Cashmere by Ralph Lauren

Soft and round, I get the feeling this is almost entirely made of cashmeran. The supporting notes do well to present a pleasant jus.
If you've ever wondered what cashmeran smells like, you will realize how many other fragrances over-use the aroma chem and how easy it is to 'play' with.

Not bad, but nothing supreme about it, much like the leather.
Supreme Oud is the winner of the trio to me.

I predict Supreme Vetiver, Supreme Tobacco and Supreme Iris coming up!
20th February, 2018

Emblem Absolu by Montblanc

I want to thumb this up, but...

I am a fan of violet leaf, and the original Emblem and Intense versions are both centered around that note.

I expected the Absolu version to be the same vein but presented magnificently. Instead you end up with a fragrance that pretty much has nothing to do with the original and first flanker.

So...good as a stand a lone, terrible as a flanker. Buy only if you must complete the trio or you like it.

Nice bottle.
20th February, 2018

Galop d'Hermès by Hermès

Such a beaut.

I tried the pure parfum and it is unisex to my nose.

The quince presents like grapefruit, The leather thick cut complex, some 'horse' left.

This is what a beautiful woman known for her power (political or in industry) should smell like.
20th February, 2018