Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Andrewthecologneguy

Total Reviews: 971

Rive d'Ambre by Tom Ford

Rive d'Ambre is gorgeous.

It takes time to appreciate all the nuance and complexities in this rather simple orange and amber fragrance.

Simple yet complex? Yes indeed. All the complexities serve to maintain the simplicity of the fragrance throughout it's life. Genius from TF.

What it smells like: if you can imagine Mugler Cologne in a Parfum Concentree strength, this would be it.
04th December, 2018

UDV for Men (new) by Ulric de Varens

I don't think there is a detectable difference between the 2004 and the 1993 versions.
the notes are the same ...

A patchouli that is simply lovely. Light hearted yet throws a decisive punch. I often use this as a booster to other fragrances or as a post shave smell-good.

At the current prices EVERY collection should have one.
01st December, 2018

UDV Star by Ulric de Varens

Takes the original UDV for Men and adds an equal measure of the aromachem in Bleu de Chanel, Dylan Blue and Sauvage.
A very nice combo that just radiates beautifully.
The strength is true EdT so more than a few sprays is required.
A ridiculous bargain at European drugstore prices (under 5 euros for 50ml)
01st December, 2018
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Kokorico by Night by Jean Paul Gaultier

Lovely chocolate gourmand that does well to draw you in.

As a flanker, it upstages the original in the easier to wear department, which also means it is less niche-y which is a shame? Dunno.

The original is more artsy, daring and creative. No pandering to the ephemeral aspects of fragrance but rather to the appreciation of unique notes in perfumery, for the sheer pleasure of it.

By Night takes that idea and puts it in the background and drops a dollop of a detergent musk on top. Surprisingly it works.

The effect is similar to taking off your dress shirt and tie and replacing with a casual sport/golf shirt while retaining the suit jacket and dress shoes. Add sunglasses. Surprisingly it works :)
16th September, 2018

Alien Man by Thierry Mugler

I did not like it.

Tries to hard to be relevant, combining hints of A Men, Alien and a ubiquitous laundry musk.

No confidence, no direction.
15th September, 2018

Coach Platinum by Coach

Thumbs up? Really?


I was going to slam this for lack of creativity, but then I got to thinking: if you want to stand out in the current sea of same jus, different bottle releases of the last decade, you could create one jus that touches all the current popular juses (Eros, 1 Million, Sauvage, Bleu de Chanel, Aventus, etc...) and that, is what Coach Platinum does.

Now this isn't a full blown visit to each, but rather a mix tape or better, a new song that incorporates all the top hits and manages to blend them well.

So, skip the rest buy this one, unless you really like one particular one.
15th September, 2018

L'Eau Super Majeure d'Issey by Issey Miyake

Thicker and fuller, more of everything.
This is what the original should have been like.
I can see why this is marketed as masculine, however I think it is unisex.

Whereas the regular Majeure features a very woody cedary not, Super is almost gourmand like with its bold notes.

I like.
15th September, 2018

Bulgari Man Wood Essence by Bulgari

Just no.

I was attracted by the bottle only to find it plasticky and deplorable. A true indication of what is inside: mediocre beyond belief and NOTHING to do with wood essences.

Very disappointed and almost upset.
15th September, 2018

Terre d'Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver by Hermès

This is genius.
You are hit with a familiar but novel sense of the original.
What accompanies is a manly yet fresh hit that stays the course.
Initial a tad overwhelming, one quickly realizes this IS what the fragrance is about: a masculinity that is a cleaned up musky man, which is what the original presented back a dozen years ago.

Not as ground breaking a TdH was, but a solid flanker, even so a stand alone offering that is sure to be a hit with the ladies.
15th September, 2018

Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford

Sparkling crystal patchouli.
This is one of the cleanest yet strongest patch I have ever tried. I really like a dirty patchouli but this presents in a way that is very attractive. Sensual, brilliant, beautiful.

Must try...full bottle worthy as a reference patch
09th September, 2018

L'Homme Idéal L'Intense by Guerlain

This should have been the original release. Full of character, each note presents very well, almost like a performance where all the notes are doing there own thing but somehow in harmony.

The tonka bean replaces the almond here, well flanked by the spicy notes. What's pleasing is that this fragrance is not shy.

I like the fact that there is an obvious connection to the EdT and EdP but now we understand what the perfumers had in mind.

09th September, 2018

Boy Chanel by Chanel

A surprising fougere.
My initial comprehension was Paco Rabanne Pour Homme in the green bottle but far more restrained and beautifully composed.

Geranium and lavandin seem to play central roles in the overall.

Expensive, but this is pure-er simpler perfumery and might be worth the ask for some.
09th September, 2018

The One Grey by Dolce & Gabbana

I did not know what to expect.
Many were bashing this based on the notes alone and perhaps it appearing to be an uninspired flanker.

First sniff: Tom Ford something. Could easily passed for a TF fragrance that exist in the lighter strengths.

As it settles, all I kept getting was Tom Ford.

Then it hit me...

The One Grey = Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous a EdC strength.
I happen to LOVE TFFF, so this is a win to me. Spray liberally and enjoy.

Crystal mineral quality vetiver boosted by lavandin (french vanilla) and the contrasted by cardamom.
The base is all TF with the notorious amber-tobacco combo.

Lovely, full bottle worthy.
09th September, 2018
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Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather by Acqua di Parma

Like many have noted, this is much like Tuscan Leather.

But while Tom Ford's offering is harsh and downright punishing, AdP's variation is smoother, gentler and more well behaved, all without loosing an ounce of masculinity.

I would pick this over Tuscan Leather any day.
05th September, 2018

Acqua di Parma Colonia Ebano by Acqua di Parma

I love love this. Perhaps the deepest darkest aromatic barbershop available today.

Imagine Azzaro Pour Homme but super super dark, like a flanker names Nero Intensa, this would be it!

The contrasting bergamot and petitgrain alongside ebony is a combo that is just lovely.

Easy to dismiss this if you are not patient with it. Give it time, let it develop and envelope.

This along with several others from AdP (oud, ambra, leather...) are worth a full wearing and are full bottle worthy.
05th September, 2018

Patou Pour Homme (new) by Jean Patou

Forget about the name.
I believe the new owners of Patou should have called it something different.
It echoes the original yes, but it is all subject to interpretation, much like a retro modern interpretation of a classic car (VW Beetle et al).
It can easily become a caricature, depending on the perfumer. In this case, the end result is a fragrance that stands all its own and would have made a 'new' name for the Jean Patou brand. But... in the current atmosphere it would need a severe ad campaign.

Patou Man is the right name.
Bright peppery yet dark lemony opening. Immediately recalls late 70s and 80s but only as a cameo appearance.
The rest i a journey in true perfume artistry.

Worth a pensive sniff and a full bottle.
01st September, 2018

JV x NJ by John Varvatos

Nick Jonas must have provided a list of fragrances he likes to John Varvatos who then proceeds to blend them all together while dialing back the strength to about 75% and adding an interesting opening.

So what was blended? Givenchy Gentlemen Only and Paco Rabanne Invictus.

How does it smell? Like today's guy in his 20s.

The opening is attractive: fresh lush sweetened fruits. Promising even, but then you realize it was just to draw you in.
01st September, 2018

Ombré Leather by Tom Ford

Ombre Leather is Tuscan Leather redone.

Difference to my nose is that OL is better presented, without the grab you by the 'sac' and never let go vibe of TL. OL is far more wearable; does not beat up its wearer like TL does.

I suspect it is TL at 50% strength with Tobacco Oud dialed in a bit to tone it down and masculinize it some.

As with TL, this will be love at first sniff for many.
Another hit for Tom Ford.
21st August, 2018

Fucking Fabulous by Tom Ford

F'ing Fabulous = Italian Cypress + Tobacco Oud.

That is all you need to know.

Oh, and there is a persistent lemon pound cake note with vanilla, not unlike Lolita Lempicka L.
In fact, FF could be the Eau Intense or Absolute version of that juice.

I h*ate Tom Ford because he somehow reaches into your soul with some of his releases. For all the negative reviews, you need to just wear it a second time and voila! instant love. If you still don't like it then it's just one of those TF fragrances that doesn't connect with you. I have a few that do that for me.

Worth 2 tries ...
21st August, 2018

cK One Gold by Calvin Klein

Ok I confess: I bought this for the bottle!

I think it is genius. Unfortunately the jus doesn't match and I do not like it.

It's a bit of a mess in the opening and heart: synthetic, spicy but no teeth, floral, citrusy but barely. It's like it does not know what it wants to be.

Sure there is art, but not the obvious wow perfume artistry but that rather abstract not for the masses kinda art, which for a 'for the masses' jus does not work.

This is probably due to the 'must be unisex' requirement and I think it falls flat for this. It is light but ever-present. It leans too feminine to be unisex for me. Perhaps it wears better on others.

It reminds ever so lightly of Comme des Garcons 8 88, itself a 'gold' fragrance(!?)

If it was an EdP it would do better. As is, it is best a skin scent for snuggling ... if you and your partner happen to like it.
21st August, 2018

CK One Platinum by Calvin Klein

Yet another Ck One flanker.
A totally new juice, following the nomenclature of the 2016 Ck One Gold release.

Bottle is chrome and does not say Platinum on it which is strange, though the Gold bottle does not gold on it either.
Both boxes do say Platinum Edition and Gold respectively.

Other notes is the fact that Calvin Klein is capitalized on the bottle and box. Interesting.

On to the juice. If you liked Gold you should like platinum. Leans far more feminine than unisex until the dry down which features a pretty prominent woody vetiver.

The opening and mid notes are juicy cherry-berry, very much like something Escada would launch. Noticeably synthetic and sweet.

Calvin Klein Women is much better.
21st August, 2018

1981 Indigo for Men by Guess

Not sure what 'Indigo' is all about here.
A step back from the original launched barely a year ago.

This is a mess of synthetics. Has been jus with mediocre sillage and performance. A pass for me.

Is indigo the new trend? Quick search shows it has been used as a flanker descriptor as far back as 2009 with Kenzo. A resurgence in 2018 perhaps with at least 3 other launches (Joseph Aboud, Burberry, etc...)

14th August, 2018

Polo Ultra Blue by Ralph Lauren

I love Polo Blue, and I love the EdP version as well.
Ultra Blue is simply another take, one that has a mineral oily quality without the full effect of the melon in the original.

Ultra is quite clever as well, versus the ubiquitous adjectives being used today. However, I don' know what ultra means in this context, since it is NOT an extreme version of Polo Blue.

This is the version to get if you don't want to be in your face about your fragrance. I prefer the original though...first love type of thing.
14th August, 2018

Polo Red Rush by Ralph Lauren

Breaking with its every 2 years release a Polo Red flanker tradition, Red Rush arrives a year early in 2018 instead of 2019.
Red=2013 Red Intense = 2015 Red Extreme = 2017

Red Rush is is a test of a new adjective: Rush; ditto Ultra for the Polo Blue line. First use as a flanker descriptor in fragrance history I believe; question is, will other brands follow?

On to the jus: yes, there is a clear connection to Polo Red. But I couldn't help but think, is this flanker necessary? Intense is just that, an intense version of Red. Extreme is quite bold, presenting as an EdP with bombastic sillage and projection. Juicy and delicious too.

Rush is a tamer version not unlike the way Polo Ultra Blue is a more transparent yet 'oily' version of the original.

Red Rush may work for those who did not like the original, and that's the point: here's another version so we can take your money. A pass for me. Polo Red Extreme is the one to get.
14th August, 2018

Jimmy Choo Man Blue by Jimmy Choo

3rd flanker and 4th release by J Choo for men.
Blue follows in the footsteps of the previous flanker (Ice) by presenting a citrus (bergamot) in the opening; but it is not as aclean and fresh or intense as the trio you get with Ice.

Instead, sage and pepper subdue the citrus, creating a pencil shavings vibe as it settles. It seems promising until the CK Obsession-like sandalwood and vetiver combo that ruins it in my opinion.

I don't find it 'blue' at all; I would have used the adjective 'Night' as it is more sensual than sporty (assuming blue is sporty).

Overall a decent flanker that does not stray too much from the bunch. Ice is still my favorite for its bright sunny character, that has nothing to do with Ice, go figure.
I am starting to think the adjectives are all wrong for Jimmy Choo so far...
14th August, 2018

Calvin Klein Women by Calvin Klein

Tried this today and I love it.
Very much the avant garde experiemntal modernist/futuristic abstract style as presented in CK One, Be, and most of the rest of that line.

It is synthetic, no bones about it, but in a tongue-in-cheek trying to imitate nature kind of way.

At first sniff, there is an attractive iso super molecule type of vibe that immediately draws you in. This is layered with basic household detergent and bitter citrus.

The jus transforms as it wears, finally revealing a sexy clean minty cedary goodness, a bang-on copy of DKNY Energy for women in the trapezoidal prism bottle.

I hope this becomes a hit. Smells so different and much better than most of today's offerings.

Easily a signature scent.
14th August, 2018

360 Degrees Blue for Men by Perry Ellis

Drakkar Noir but with a twist. It is not weak as some have said. The twist in this case seems like an attempt tp freshen it up some, maybe to modernize the classic Drakkar? Either way, there are better alternatives but this isn't totally bad, just pointless.
06th June, 2018

Perry Ellis 18 Intense by Perry Ellis

Easily a flanker of L'Eau D'Issey its so close to the real thing. The icy frosty notes in the Miyake is noticeably absent here so you almost go straight to the dry down with 18 Intnese.
06th June, 2018

Compass by Tommy Bahama

This is a mess to my nose.
I just can't get with it.
I tested in hot weather, maybe that's the issue.
It can't make up its mind..sweet spicy but not cohesively so. Worn several times and no love for me.
06th June, 2018

360 Degrees Green for Men by Perry Ellis

This is lovely. Fahrenheit vetiver tincture in eau de cologne strength

Granted I have been prepped from yesteryear because this smells like something my dad wore 30 years ago except now it is refined and smooth.
It is a green fragrance truly, with 'moss' and 'vetiver' doing a good job of relating with the 'cardamom' very well.
But this is what most people wont be able to get over...yet it is what makes it sexy to my nose. It has a flannel fuzzy feel punctuated by plastic and metal notes that are just as soft. Warm inviting manly masculine with round edges.
06th June, 2018