Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Andrewthecologneguy

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Total Reviews: 940

L'Insoumis by Lalique

Why does the bottle resemble that of Ferragamo Uomo's?

What a wonderful masculine eau.

The opening is unusual (kinda dark wet, dank maybe?) making you wonder, what is the inspiration behind this?
Like a live show about to begin, the lighting is set before the first scene...the lights might not make sense but as soon as the scene begins it all comes together.
So it is with L'Insoumis...the unruly one.

I was transported back to my childhood when the 'show' began. An opoponax like air, strong and firm, like the defiant negative camber stance of a German sport sedan.

I love this.

A must sniff.
03rd April, 2018

Brit Summer Edition for Men by Burberry

I like this.
If you are looking for summer in the sense of citrus heavy and no longevity, this not it.

It is true to the original but with a stronger spicy note that conveys a freshness that is well, 'refreshing' if not bold.

By today's standards wears like an EdP due to its thickness a la the original it is based on. The powdery notes are dialed back significantly here, much like the discontinued limited edition. The difference is the brightness of this juice.

So summer it is, but much of a British summer, where all the pomp and circumstance does not go away because the sun is shining.
19th March, 2018

Burberry Brit : Limited Edition for Men by Burberry

I had this gem for several years and after trying the newer flankers (Splash, Rhythm) I realized I much preferred this Lim Ed. That's when I realized it was discontinued and now quite hard to find.

It is a deeper, more in your face version; the soft musks swapped for pine-y goodness.

In today's speak it would have been labelled Brit Intense or "Extra"
Worth seeking out as it is very today, come to think of it.
19th March, 2018
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L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Noir Ambré by Issey Miyake

Probably what one of the three wise men must have smelled like.

I appreciate this because of the sheer perfumery that went into this. Ditto the Or Encens flanker also by Christophe Raynaud.

At first sniff, you can tell this isn't some lazy effort of aromachems. Instead, you are greeted with layered depth complete with individual nuance.

Very nichey this, a delight for the nose as the notes dance around and bounce off each other.

In the end, it all concludes somewhat quickly, again lending to a nich like quality. Does not stick around forever like aromachems would. Instead, it performs like there are natural oils and resins at work, including harsh unrounded tones here and there.


25th February, 2018

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Or Encens by Issey Miyake

First sniff: disorderly dark spicy woody oudy ambery; NOT for the faint of nose.

Like Noir Ambre, this is a niche quality fragrance available from a designer. I can see this never dipping below its current offer price; my advice is to buy it if you like it.

It takes a minute to settle on your skin, considering the one-two punch that is the head and mid notes (rose + labdanum to incense and pepper, yikes!).

Would not wear this in the summer: too spicy and dense.
25th February, 2018

Black Bold by Kenneth Cole

A newer, slightly fresher take on the original Bold, 14 years in the making.
Harry Fremont is alone on this one, free from any inputs from Sabine de Tscharner; so I guess you could call it Freemont's take.

The bold moniker is quite fitting as this does presents itself 'louder' than the original. The packaging is nicer to, with a somewhat niche nod.

I would wear this over the original, which I think is too much pencil shavings, at the time of launch was cool and interesting but quite trite by today's standards.

Excellent replacement for KC Black.
25th February, 2018

Obsessed for Men by Calvin Klein

This was a thumbs down for me initially: did not smell like a modern, updated Obsession and it had a lifeless thin quality to it with a weak, feminine floral bent.

Then...I oversprayed and really let it come alive. This is essentially a poor man's Creed Royal Mayfair.
They ar enot the same, but hear me out: they are both new age masculine florals that really are feminine but through the magic of aromachems (ambrox super in this case) deepens and finally starts leaning masculine as it dries.

So, for the new type of man, millenial perhaps, but one that is less concerned about being labelled as masculine or feminine, Obsessed is your jus.
25th February, 2018

Pasha Edition Noire by Cartier

I did not connect this to the original upon first sniff. For me I got the usual dark-woody synthetic drenched in green citrusy notes, and it was boring...until some very interesting incense and spice say hi.

They are so low and late in the sniff you might miss it.

And that is the saving grace for this. Could have been it's own thing, as original Pasha is so unique and different.
At least the Noire tag is not lost in translation, but it is NOT a black version of the original.
22nd February, 2018

Pasha Edition Noire Sport by Cartier

Love at first sniff for me.
Very different from the original and the Noire.

In fact this could have been a stand alone fragrance.

To my nose I get a rhubarb note that is just delicious. Must be the marine notes playing with the melon.

The longevity issue is fixed with overspray, so no real issue there. Is it sporty? Who knows. No one knows what sporty means, but we like it :)

Full bottle for me, worth a sniff for all. It might hook you!
22nd February, 2018

Déclaration Parfum by Cartier

It is a true Parfum of the original.

More of everything, fuller, denser, thicker, rounder.

That is why it is a thumbs up. For those who do not like the original, there is no way they will like this as well.

So, good but bad, not my cup of tea, a respectable jus.
22nd February, 2018

Hugo Urban Journey by Hugo Boss

The bottle is textured, like it is coated in sand.

The jus: nothing new, and not similar to the original.
It is so familiar, your mind will flip through the rolodex of scents you've encountered in the last decade. Reminds of Givenchy Very Irresistable Summer Cocktail with Invictus onboard for the ride.

The good news is that it is not a clone of something launched in the last 3 years that are clones of each other (thinking 1 Million and Eros crowd).

Instead it is a soft, warm, agreeable scent that's youthful. Mildly sweet, vegetal (green) and creamy. Worth a sniff, doubt you will fall in love with it tho.
21st February, 2018 (last edited: 22nd February, 2018)

Artisan Pure by John Varvatos

Wow!

Instant sunshine burst of citrus in a bottle.
Comes across as grapefruit but must be more because that initial blast is so strong and complex.

A true flanker: smells like the original Artisan but engulfed in a bright citrusy mix.

Perfect for hot sunny activities, including beach and other water sports.

Quite nice this!
21st February, 2018

Royal Mayfair by Creed

One of the most daring masculine florals out there.

Problem is there is nothing natural about this, like previous Creeds. Instead it is aromachems, and quite a lazy effort.

You can tell this is mostly aromachems because the reviews are not consistent. Some love it, some hate it. Some smell eucalyptus, (I got none) all I get is tuberose (that lasts forever) after a nasty plasticky clean rubber not in the opening.

You end up liking this...kinda like how your first sniff of most Tom Fords are repulsive then you find yourself addicted.

So be careful. If at first it stinks, wait a few weeks then try it again.

Not for me...too much tuberose.
21st February, 2018
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Bentley for Men by Bentley

This is nice. A slightly spicy vegetal leather jus. There was thought, but no imagination as you have seen this before. Thumbs up because it a a car company scent AND it is much better quality than you would expect from such.

Crisp white shirt and quality shoes...for a man who knows how to be.

If you do try it, don't try the intense because you will forget about this one. However, I do see someone liking this instead of the intense version.
21st February, 2018

Bentley for Men Azure by Bentley

For most people, you will love this at first sniff.
For perfume heads, you will bore quickly because you've seen this trick before.

It is all centered around abroxan (orcanox in this application) but nicely lifted in all areas using citrus and yummy fruity notes (pineapple). Then the base is well balanced with notes you love as well.

Overall a nice take on a fresh 'blue' masculine. I'd wear it but not fall in love with it.
21st February, 2018

Bentley for Men Intense by Bentley

The hype is real I suppose, because this is GOOD jus.

Now, on to the reality of it: much like Bentley cars, this is a modern interpretation of true perfumery, made available in abundance and presented buffet style. There is something slightly 'off; here, in that luxury, in and of itself includes exclusivity and rarity.

Can you fault luxury if it is ubiquitous? Should you discount its merits because it is readily available?
21st February, 2018

Encre Noire à l'Extrême by Lalique

This wears like a dark oud fragrance, perhaps due to the patch sandalwood and benzoin combo in the base, a combo some have labeled 'oud accord' for some ouds. The incense and elemi to some extent further this notion.

I really enjoyed wearing this because I am an oud lover, especially the woody and spicy variety. I would have loved for the vetiver to shine through but it only shows up briefly then it is gone.

Extreme is the right term then for this, versus intense. It is not a more voluminous version of the original, instead it is an exploration to the far reaches of black ink.
21st February, 2018

Polo Supreme Cashmere by Ralph Lauren

Soft and round, I get the feeling this is almost entirely made of cashmeran. The supporting notes do well to present a pleasant jus.
If you've ever wondered what cashmeran smells like, you will realize how many other fragrances over-use the aroma chem and how easy it is to 'play' with.

Not bad, but nothing supreme about it, much like the leather.
Supreme Oud is the winner of the trio to me.

I predict Supreme Vetiver, Supreme Tobacco and Supreme Iris coming up!
20th February, 2018

Emblem Absolu by Montblanc

I want to thumb this up, but...

I am a fan of violet leaf, and the original Emblem and Intense versions are both centered around that note.

I expected the Absolu version to be the same vein but presented magnificently. Instead you end up with a fragrance that pretty much has nothing to do with the original and first flanker.

So...good as a stand a lone, terrible as a flanker. Buy only if you must complete the trio or you like it.

Nice bottle.
20th February, 2018

Galop d'Hermès by Hermès

Such a beaut.

I tried the pure parfum and it is unisex to my nose.

The quince presents like grapefruit, The leather thick cut complex, some 'horse' left.

This is what a beautiful woman known for her power (political or in industry) should smell like.
20th February, 2018

1881 Signature by Cerruti

Alas, 1881 Oud is presented.

No oud in the notes, but there is no mistaken that this is an oud fragrance. Dark medicinal oud with nuances of subtle sweetness and mild woodiness.

Closest to the Bella Notte flanker but takes several notches darker. I was hoping for 1881 original with a new modern twist (look at Edition Blanche for that) instead this is really a flanker of a flanker: Bella Notte Eau Nuit or Oud Nuit.

Worth a sniff, can't tell if you will like it, but good jus nonetheless.
05th February, 2018

Joop! Homme Extreme by Joop!

Wow!
This flanker IS the 'dirty' Joop!

Cocoa and patch present as a dirty musk. If you are not into dirty frags don't bother.
Almost like Musc Ravegeur or Muscs Koublai Khan layered with Joop.
I love it!
04th February, 2018 (last edited: 05th February, 2018)

Joop! Homme Wild by Joop!

I initially eschewed the Joop flankers because I find the bottles tacky.

Then I decided to sniff Wild and was not impressed.

Nothing wild about it to my nose, and pales in comparison to the original.
04th February, 2018 (last edited: 05th February, 2018)

Polo by Ralph Lauren

A designer jus that has stood the test of time and will continue to do so.

It has been reformulated a few times, however the basic premise remains.

This epitomizes what masculinity was, not so much anymore. In fact I am of the mind that you need to be 'old' to wear this (whatever that means)!

A must have in every collection? Yes.
04th February, 2018

Uomo Casual Life by Salvatore Ferragamo

Interesting spin on the original, tho I am not sure what Casual Life description is all about.
Morillas and Guichard have been brought in to brighten and liven this up...they have good experience doing this, several flankers under their belt.

Have they accomplished the purpose? Yes. It is nice, yes, unique, no. Wearable for year-round use, so familiar, so casual.

04th February, 2018

Dunhill Icon Elite by Dunhill

I am in the camp that enjoys this.

Yes it is synthetic, but that is the norm today. So I evaluate based on the total concept as presented.

The jus matches the bottle very well: deep, dark, metallic, a bit of shimmer here and there.
There is a dry, chalky vibe upon first sniff, and you can smell the entire composition all at once.

The ebony wood stands out to me, presenting an oud accord.
On the forums someone had mentioned Cool Water...blame the bergamot/lime/cardamom in the opening, but it is NOT Cool Water.

What you get is a true flanker: a darker or 'black' version of the original. And that is a boon IMO. I do like the Absolute in the gold bottle the best so far, having yet to try the Racing flanker.

Me likey.
04th February, 2018

Roberto Cavalli Uomo Silver Essence by Roberto Cavalli

There is something magnetic in this and I cannot quite put my finger on it.

It semlls of a note, vintage in nature, that was at one point ubiquitous in cosmetics, perhaps around the 50s or 60s.

In this composition, you simply don't want to stop smelling it. Warm, vegetal, smooth and creamy, almost unisex but not in a sweet feminine way.

Whatever it is, RCUSE is a standout fragrance in a sea of same jus different bottle. get the ECU original to accompany this flanker tho, and you will be smiling everytime.

Just lovely.
31st January, 2018

Roberto Cavalli Uomo by Roberto Cavalli

To appreciate this, you have to smell the Silver Essence flanker as well.

At first, I thought, another me too. Well done, but it is a copy. Then I smelled the SE and then this again and it came alive.

The honey came across, nice and dirty like honey should be. And Iw as immediately drawn to it. A must sniff. Done in that obtuse Cavalli way that is oh so Italian and daring/bold.
31st January, 2018

La Nuit de L'Homme Eau Électrique by Yves Saint Laurent

Zgb is right on.
A mix of La Nuit and L'homme. Surprisingly nice, perhaps because of the familiarity already established by the 2.

It's a very good balance, I'd say 50/50 to my nose.

So, there you have it. You can have the best of both worlds with LNdL'HEE :)
31st January, 2018

Narciso Rodriguez for Him Eau de Parfum Intense by Narciso Rodriguez

Pure sexy in a bottle.
I love the original, love the EdP and love this Intense version as well.
It is all about the musk.
Presented in bold, beautiful array, no bashfulness in sight.
Might just be the perfect fragrance for the sexiest man's man with all the confidence the world can muster.
Just wow.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for the musk fiend.
26th January, 2018