Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Andrewthecologneguy

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Total Reviews: 1022

Tommy Now by Tommy Hilfiger

Beautiful.
Closely related to Tommy, like a modern take.
It features light oud like notes, and an overall simplicity that charms. Full bottle worthy for someone who does not want to be bothered by trends. A born classic.
16th November, 2019

Polo Blue Gold Blend by Ralph Lauren

speedracer's review is spot on!

Polo Blue Gold Blend is a blend of Polo Blue EdP and a hint of Bleu de Chanel or Versace Dylan Blue or Dior Sauvage.

There is enough in there to notice but not to dominate, which makes this a masterful blend.

It is akin to how Armani updated Acqua di Gio with Profumo: the essence of the original Polo Blue is intact, well enhanced by the additional notes.

This is going in my collection.
05th November, 2019 (last edited: 21st November, 2019)

K by Dolce & Gabbana by Dolce & Gabbana

D&G's foray into the ambroxan craze...
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Versace Dylan Blue
Dior Sauvage

...to mention a few. K is easily a flanker of one the above.
It does smell a bit different - a stronger vegetal note, probably from the sage-pimento combo, and an overall have makes this, dare I say, beautiful? Compared to the rest of the abroxan bombs this cares about your nose and the people around you.
It does make you smell like packaging material in some instance, which can be good if you want to smell as naturally unnatural as possible.
I like it, so thumbs up.
13th October, 2019
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Gold Man by Amouage

A very challenging scent that needs a LOT of time and patience to understand and enjoy.

It is very period correct for 1983, and as such many of today's noses will not know what to do with it.

Opening is powdery floral of the highest order, borderline stinks. Then it starts to morph into various presentations of Victorian era auras, finally settling down to an animalic incense and musk ala civet and patch.

Not for the faint of heart!
30th September, 2019

Oud Cashmere Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

OCM has won me over, but I do not love it.

As a perfumer-mixologist, I am always in search of the next combo to blow my mind, something that elicits comments.

Oud Cashmere Mood does just that. All I can think of is a cold sparkling watery sharp crystal patchouli.

Yes there is oud and a hint of vanilla, but I cannot get past that strong icy jagged patchouli starring at me.

It puts you in a mood for sure.
29th September, 2019

Intense Pepper by Montale

I don't know when Montale Greyland was released, but there is a clear connection between the Greyland and Intense Pepper.

I would go as far as to say Intense Pepper was supposed to be Greyland or vice versa. Intense Pepper is the lighter of the two and could easily be the cologne strength version.

Intense Pepper is not all about pepper, but there are resinous woody tones as well, all in a fleeting combination that wants you to just keep sniffing.

My only gripe is the pseudo latex note; I would swap it with a dirty sensual musk and this would be a super comforting naughty scent.

26th September, 2019

Greyland by Montale

Greyland was an oddball for me.
And indeed a lot of Montales come across that way.

There is wood, plenty of wood, but it is not woodsy. There is smoke, but not cigar smoke or a dirty fire smoke, but rather a clean resinous smoke. Then there is pepper, synthetic white pepper.

overall, this presents a scent most noses have ever smelled in combination and as such presents something totally new.

Signature scent for sure. Worth a sniff.
26th September, 2019

Eternity for Men Intense by Calvin Klein

1. Has almost nothing to do with the original.
2. The scent itself is quite nice, signature worthy.

Fresh, light (for a fragrance labelled intense), crisp white shirt office scent, thanks to the grapefruit/white pepper and tea combo in the opening.

A shame that Calvin Klein/Coty Prestige would sully the great Eternity name with this tho.

At a minimum, it should have been a flanker of Eternity with a different name, other than Intense.

24th September, 2019

Godolphin by Parfums de Marly

PdM's offering of the very copied Tom Ford Tuscan Leather.

As with variations on the same theme, it is hard not to like this if you are a fan of TL.

PdM is known for almost perfect dosing - well blended notes but each have room to shine individually.

Expensive, but worth it.
22nd September, 2019

Ombré Leather 16 by Tom Ford

Should have been marketed as Tuscan Leather Cologne IMO because it is clearly a toned down TL, much like the Ombre Leather introduced last year.

I thought they were the same but upon closer inspection there are nuances that make these different. Perhaps as a result of different ingredients trying to achieve the same goal.

Either way, it is TL redux or legere
22nd September, 2019

Authentic Men by Abercrombie & Fitch

Ironic that a fragrance called Authentic is a knock off, and not a great one at that, knocking off Aventus.
More vegetal less smokey.
24th August, 2019

Spicebomb Night Vision by Viktor & Rolf

Cash grab.
There was some effort in there, but it really comes across as a melange of all the stereotypical jus released for men since 2012.
Ok, so many many houses are guilty of exactly the same. But...the crime here is how bad a flanker this is compared to the original Spicebomb.
But a closer look (sniff) at the original itself reveals it was simply a vanillaic oriental married to the hotest sellers of the previous year, namely Dior Homme and YSL L'Homme. It was a mild hit.
Night Vision is not quite. Impossible to distinguish it from the sea of clones out there at the moment.
05th August, 2019

Mercedes-Benz Select by Mercedes-Benz

It was hard to rate this neutral. It's only crime is well, ripping off Aventus.

that level offense is not forgivable for the likes of Olivier Cresp who has created outstanding pieces like Dior Dune, Gaultier Kokorico and Armani Attitude.

MB Select sneaks up on you: you do not expect it to be an Aventus close, then about an hour in, it shows up, full and ready to fool whoever is around you.

So neutral it is. Performance is not any better or worse than Armaf's Club Nuit Intense
05th August, 2019
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Le Beau by Jean Paul Gaultier

Yummy, juicy edible sweet coconut.

It's so simple yet quite good.

There are others before it that have gone down this road: Sean john Unforgiveable Night, and Marc by Marc Jacobs.
Both feature qualities that flirt with coconut, (fig in the case of Marc). Le Beau is unabashedly coconut, and one that you want to sink your teeth into.

31st July, 2019

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Wood & Wood by Issey Miyake

I had high hopes for this -

A pseudo Terre d'Hermes with ambroxan in the dry down.

Real wood cap though, so...
31st July, 2019

Y Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

A tad much to my nose, but I thought the EdT was perfect, so...

A more of everything version of the original, so yes, a true eau de parfum.

It's really well executed, strong, spicy, sweet, woody at the end. Very millennial!
03rd July, 2019

Gucci Guilty pour Homme by Gucci

Five years after YSL's L'Homme Guilty comes on the scene as a different mode of transport to the same journey: a masculine floral with all the soft edges gilded in metal to ensure it stays masculine.

Essentially the same as L'Homme, it is less elegant. And quite odd for an Italian offering as well. But it has a place: fantastic office wear for the man who does not want to 'smell' of cologne, but rather of sanitized masculinity.

It pales only in comparison to L'Homme, and neutral because 5 years was plenty of time to give this an edge over what was copied.
03rd July, 2019

Gucci Guilty Cologne by Gucci

This is a mild thumbs up.

One would be forgiven to assume this is a eau de cologne version of Gucci Guilty. In fact it is not. That role was played by the EAU version from 2016.

What this cologne is instead, is just that: a cologne, in the traditional sense. But even then it is experimental at best, much like the Absolute version was a risky turn fantastic offering.

There is a clearer connection to the Absolute version than to the original that this is a flanker to. Once you divorce yourself from the idea that there *should* be a connection, this flanker is a lot easier to accept.

A. Morillas is a genius no doubt; but with hundreds (240 at last count) of mass produced (and mostly successful) creations, I think he is more interested in 'playful' offerings rather than meeting a specific guideline.

Gucci Guilty Absolute is perhaps the GREATEST to my nose.
Gucci Guilty Cologne is the EdC strength of a 50% tincture of the Absolute. Thumbs up only because it is daring, but barely.
03rd July, 2019

Bottega Veneta Illusione for Him by Bottega Veneta

Wonderful this.

Citrus on woods.

Simple, yet sophisticated. I'd say this is strictly for summer but it is so addictive I can see myself reaching for this anytime I want a long lasting secret smile.

The opening is typical citrus - full blast and joyful, but then a serious side of this shows up, perhaps the fir balsam in intercourse with the bitter orange. The result is a citrus that does not yield to the woods but rather they become one front.

Very nice.
16th June, 2019

Spirit of the Brave by Diesel

Instantly likable copy of the current zeitgeist - close to a mix of Invictus and Sauvage among and others.

Difference is this is smoothed out, almost ZERO harsh notes. Probably as a result of the Green fizzy vegetal note, water that is :)

Worth a sniff!
15th June, 2019 (last edited: 16th June, 2019)

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Shade of Lagoon by Issey Miyake

Doppel-ganger to the Sport Mint limited edition, though there is a bit more spice in the heartnotes of this iteration.

As with all the summer versions, Miyake keeps them very close to existing albeit (sometimes) discontinued versions.

Worth a bottle? Sure, if you are looking for something to use just for the summer. Smells good - will make memories.
15th June, 2019

L'Homme Idéal Cool by Guerlain

Fantastic summer jus!

Take 40% Ideal Sport and 40% Ideal cologne mixed with the original L'homme Ideal and voila!

Staying power is very good - several hours. Projection is not bad either.

I really like this for summer. If you like the L'homme Ideal line, you will love this.
15th June, 2019

Sun by Jil Sander

Wow. Aldehydes and patchouli.

Love it!!!
15th June, 2019

Aventus Cologne by Creed

Pales in comparison to the original, yes.

But it is still the delightful enjoyable genius of a jus.

The bad - it smells like one of the knock offs.
Which I think is the point of this.

Will be rocking this for sure.
11th June, 2019

Esprit Pure for Men by Esprit

So wanted to thumb this up but it disappears rather quickly unfortunately.

The kumquat dominates the opening, presenting a deep bitter grapefruit that's delicious.

Then the juice turns interesting as the coriander and elemi dance with sage - greeness but joyful.

The standard 'woody' base is present, showing up too quickly.

If Esprit would create higher quality fragrances, this would be a candidate, just needs to be triple strength.
26th May, 2019

Le Mâle In The Navy by Jean Paul Gaultier

Beautiful.
Eau Fraiche pales in comparison to this.
This is for those who enjoy sweet/salty fragrances.
The construction is simple yet the results are outstanding.

Sweet but not a gourmand.
Salty and green but not enough to qualify for those labels.

The ambergris takes the place of the typical woody base yielding a unique overtone in the drydown.

Versatile - office, day, night, spring or summer. Explains the high retail price even on discount websites.

Worth a sniff, and certainly a place in my collection.
15th May, 2019

Boss Bottled Infinite by Hugo Boss

This right here is a gem of a flanker.
To my nose the BEST of the flankers.
Connection to the original is evident but not immediate.

The infinite title is apt: there is a linearity to this. Almost like a sustained musical note, except there are facets that show up from time to time, almost like an undulation of temporal pleasure.

Fantastic!
14th May, 2019

Invictus Legend by Paco Rabanne

I am not a fan.
This is kinda weird. Did not develop on my skin, instead it turned into a chemical mess...the fixative was horrid, though not as horrid as the stuff Ralph Lauren Polo abused for years.
There is little to no connection with this and the rest of the Invictus line. I see this as a cash grab, my speculation being that it will be discontinued by the end of next year if not sooner.

Easily a thumbs down except I could not fully assess the jus due to the 'cheap' chemicals in use. Perhaps someone else will love it.
13th May, 2019

Gentleman Cologne by Givenchy

Fantastic jus!!

This is a modern interpretation of the venerable Mugler Cologne. There is a clear connection between the two however Gentleman Cologne adds several aspects (dimensions) that bolsters the position of this jus as fresh sunny yet versatile.
Almost love at first sniff. Definitely love at continued sniffing :)

Full bottle worthy.
13th May, 2019

Run Wild for Men by Davidoff

So this is Davidoff or rather, Coty Prestige's foray into an offering close enough to Dior Sauvage and Bleu de Chanel.

The difference is very clear upfront though: it is not strong, nor is sit sickeningly cloying. Instead, it is essentially a 'cologne' strength version of a combination of the two.

So why thumbs up if this is just a clone? And a weak one at that...well, this is perhaps the most wearable of this type of fragrance, meaning it is not a bomb. Kudos to Davidoff for returning fragrances to wearable status.

Run Wild and Sauvage are to close in name though...
13th May, 2019