Reviews by odysseusm

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    odysseusm
    Canada Canada

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    1932 by Chanel

    Pretty, fresh, feminine.
    The aldehydes give this a great potency which, for a while, makes all the elements bounce around like balls in a bingo cage.
    Eventually, the scent settles (surprisingly) into a pretty good rendering of lilac.
    Overall, the scent is too sweet, floral and pretty to interest me.
    It seems a bit one-dimensional to me, not worthy of the Exclusive label in Chanel.
    It is OK in and of itself, but not in the upper tier of scents from this label. Perhaps a bit synthetic in tone overall.

    08 August, 2014

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    Cuir de Russie by Chanel

    Elegant scent, very classy and unisex. I am not a leather fan but I find this to be nice. Everything is substantial yet restrained, and (as others have said) in perfect balance. Definitely not heavy, sweet, or cloying.
    The scent is in an an attractive evening style, sophisticated and alluring. I hadn't expect to like this but I do!

    04 August, 2014 (Last Edited: 09 August, 2014)

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    Blue Santal by Comme des Garçons

    A bright, very cool sandalwood. The intended effect is to have icy notes contrasting with the warm wood -- a shimmering effect sometimes called moiré. It succeeds.
    Ultimately, I find this to be an attractive but somewhat simple cool-wood scent. But, it has very good wood notes and the "cool" is not a screechy synthetic.

    04 August, 2014 (Last Edited: 03 August, 2014)

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    Terre d'Hermès Eau Très Fraîche by Hermès

    A true flanker... fiddling and tweaking with an established and very successful scent. It is intended to build on the success of the original and appeal to market segments not quite satisfied with the original, or yearning for a variation, or just for those with a short attention span. :P

    Here, the citrus notes really "pop" in the opening. It has a rounder and slightly soapier middle. Base is similar (the flinty note) but not quite as dry and interesting.

    I am a fan of the original so I don't see this as any improvement or worth its own purchase. However, on its own terms it is a pleasant scent, although it stands in the shadow of the original TdH.

    03 August, 2014 (Last Edited: 10th August, 2014)

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    Uomo by Valentino

    Not my style: sweet, foody/chocolate/gourmand. Also get a hint of the roasted hazelnuts. Initially smooth and arguably classy, however the sweetness gets monolithic and cloying. Maddening clots of fake leather. Quite irritating, and hangs in despite repeated scrubs (as the worst always do).

    19 July, 2014

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    1889 Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums

    Very sweet. Like lipstick or make-up. Also wet cardboard. The pear reference mentioned by others is accurate. The wet cardboard note is quite unappealing, unglamorous, unpleasant.

    18 July, 2014

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    1873 by Histoires de Parfums

    Blech! There is no, zero, nada citrus here folks.
    An odd, heavy.old-socks and furniture polish scent.
    Heavy on the faux caramel and other foody nasties.
    With an odd twangy note. Peanut shells? Old celery leaves?
    Please... deliver me from this hell.

    18 July, 2014

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    Orange Aoud by Montale

    A pretty, floral oud. Starts with delicate orange blossom with hints of leather. Quickly morphs into a light oud scent, framed by floral notes. A simple, light scent.

    08 July, 2014

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    1969 Parfum de Révolte by Histoires de Parfums

    Really not my cup of tea! Certainly get the sweet spices and chocolate. Very foody-gourmand. Incredibly dense and rich. I can't imagine wanting to smell like this. Can't wait to scrub it off.

    04 July, 2014

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    Rose Barbare by Guerlain

    Rose and a sweet syrup. Fruity, juvenile, tinny-metallic at times. Bleh.

    02 July, 2014

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    Paisley by Etro

    A good scent -- not sweet, heavy. Not like everything else on the market. Distinctive.
    Opening is crisp, business-like yet with a hint of spice. Mild green notes are evident.
    The grey ambergris is synthetic but effective -- a cool ending to an interesting scent and works well with the spices. Aimed a a women's market but a guy could wear it. Not bottle-worthy for me but it is OK.
    Vanilla (thankfully) is non-obtrusive.

    30th June, 2014

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    Les Elixirs Charnels - Chypre Fatal by Guerlain

    Notes: white pear, rose, patchouli and vanilla.
    Very feminine, sweet. Some would find it pretty.
    Pears are prominent, kind of a warm pear or cooked pear note.
    The patchouli gives an earthy but also metallic note.
    Don't really care for this. Not sure why it is called a "chypre".

    29 June, 2014

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    Nuit d'Amour by Guerlain

    Definitely not my style.
    Starts as a rather watery (aquatic) rose. Gets quite sweet. A bit metallic from the aldehydes. At times something like apricot skin. Powdery-sweet dry-down.

    29 June, 2014

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    Cologne du 68 by Guerlain

    Certainly a lot going on here. The many notes produce a rather rich and dense scent. Overall, I get a sweet and pretty floral, with spicy notes and some powdery vanilla in the dry-down. Certainly a good approximation of the heliotrope flower, among other things. Hints of musk and even perhaps leather. Not my style, but as I said it is a pretty scent and would be enjoyed by many.

    29 June, 2014

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    Adam Levine for Men by Adam Levine

    Generic fresh fruity glop. Like a Lifesaver candy.

    26 June, 2014

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    Adam Levine for Women by Adam Levine

    I can't diss it and I won't endorse it.
    Basically, a simple woody scent.
    Not sweet. No florals that I can detect. No vanilla thankfully.
    Just a kind of bland, woody scent. Kinda pencil shavings. Not very exciting.

    26 June, 2014

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    François Charles by Rancé 1795

    Disappointed. The product hype suggested a "walk in the forest" and the notes show herbs and woods. But this turns out to be a "fresh" - spice - musk sort of scent.
    The herbal notes are much too brief to count for anything. The spices are done in a sweet style and are prominent. The scent has a synthetic tang.

    12 June, 2014

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    Armani Privé Cuir Noir by Giorgio Armani

    Not my style but a good scent.
    Sweet and floral opening, with good spices. Distinguished leather and a hint of wood. The oud is very well done and adds a distinctive counterpoint. The scent is quite sweet and rich, with a luxurious and elegant air. Creamy notes from the sandalwood, and a powdery dry-down. At times, the final note is like foundation make-up or a metallic makeup case. Perhaps more feminine in style, with that last element.

    10th June, 2014

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    Idole de Lubin by Lubin

    Not my style but a good fragrance.
    Boozy opening, somewhat sweet and spicy. Well-made, but rather sweet. Good wood and a hint of leather. Rich and dense. Masculine in style but could be attractive for a woman. The dry-down is classy, high quality, with leather and creamy sandalwood. The sweetness abates somewhat, though the scent remains rich.

    10th June, 2014

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    Triomphe by Rancé 1795

    EdP formulation.
    Opens with citrus and spice. Settles into a dry, dusky pepper note. Conveys a classy aura: well-blended, close to the skin. The florals are muted rather than foreground. Definitely a masculine style. HInt of wood and dry musk in the dry-down. For me, the pepper is the dominant note and I appreciate its dry spicy quality.

    08 June, 2014

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    Néroli by Annick Goutal

    A gorgeous orange blossom scent -- one of the best.
    Very crisp and yet very floral in the opening stages. Blossoms... Spring in a bottle.
    The crispness from the green and cypress notes is a great counterpoint to the lovely florals. Simple, satisfying. So what if the longevity is a bit short? Re-apply! Enjoy quality as it appears.

    08 June, 2014

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    L'Eau Neuve Figaro by Lubin

    A witty name for a fig-based scent, also a reference to the opera Marriage of Figaro.
    This is a good scent. Starts with a fresh, very realistic and pleasant grapefruit note, combined with pepper and spice. The heart is green. The cilantro (coriander leaves) and clover give a perky, leafy, slightly crunchy note. The merest hint of pine is evident. The scent settles into fig, framed by green apple and plum fruit. The fruit provides an interesting backdrop to the fig. The scent is well blended and holds everything in balance. A refreshing scent for the summer, it is not sweet or heavy. Not remarkable, but nice. Certainly a very safe bet for daytime and office wear.

    05 June, 2014 (Last Edited: 02 July, 2014)

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    Sahara Noir by Tom Ford

    Apparently aimed at a feminine market -- but really, this is such a dry, assertive scent that it seems quite masculine to me.
    Starts with dusky orange and resinous notes. Quickly moves to spice and smoky incense. The style is powerful and yet restrained. It seems intriguing, even haunting. Quite smoky at times, and at other times there is an earthy tang from the patchouli and oud. Wears very well and has great longevity.

    03 June, 2014

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    Caligna by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Wow! A great scent! Hits all the right buttons for me.
    The opening is excellent. It is a fig note which is green and refreshing. It works well with the dusky clary sage and a hint of violet leaf, which ameliorate the fig note and provide a very nice, complex opening chord.
    The lentisk further develops the dusky-green theme. I also get a forest and forest-floor note from the pine needles.
    Overall, this is a very good scent in the garrigue style -- a breeze wafting over resinous shrubs.

    02 June, 2014

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    Eau Rose by Diptyque

    A complex, shifting scent. Very distinct phases.
    1. Green, aquatic opening. Very green and sappy, quite natural and pleasing.
    2. A DEEP DEEP rose, really excellent. Velvety, romantic yet not heavy.
    3. An quirky, celery-leaf or toasted nut chord. Quasi-leather, rather clover-y honey.
    4. The re-emergence of the rose. This is a pleasant surprise. I had given up on it. But it is back, and improves phase 3. Phase four is lovely, with rose and hay-moss notes in combination. This is another excellent phase, and certainly something a guy could enjoy. Something like a blond tobacco-leaf note here.
    Phase #2 (the rose) is excellent but brief.
    It makes an interesting return in phase 4, with complexity.
    To my taste the honey could be kicked back two notches in phase 4, otherwise a real winner.
    well, rose fans should check this out. It is a volatile chimera. Intriguing.

    17 May, 2014

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    Dot by Marc Jacobs

    Very watery-aquatic.
    Fresh in a synthetic way.
    Dominant notes of star fruit and also cucumber.
    Fairly sweet.
    Doesn't seem at all attractive to me.

    16 May, 2014

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    Armani Privé Oud Royal by Giorgio Armani

    An excellent scent. Oud-centric, to be sure. But everything is well blended, the oud is distinctive but not problematic. Sure, there is the rubbery band-aid and medicinal aspect, but that is the charm of oud. It is quite addictive when you get used to it.
    The opening is charming and aromatic. The hint of licorice is a brilliant combination with the soapy-sweet myrrh. Here, it reminds me of Fou D'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumer.
    The scent is dry -- a welcome feature. Good hints of wood appear from time to time.
    The dry-down has amber, musk and vanilla but these are softening background agents rather than prominent features.
    Oud fans should check this out, and those curious or new to oud could find this an acceptable introduction to the genre.

    13 May, 2014

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    Jewel For Him by Martine Micallef

    Delightful scent! Brilliant.
    Starts with very good citrus and spice -- attractive, invigorating, natural.
    There are supported by wood notes.
    The patchouli-vetiver is earthy and interesting. That chord, plus the incense (probably oud) suggests a mitti attar with an intriguing clay or mineral note.
    Perhaps there is also rose in the oud, which lends a lovely floral aspect.
    Perfectly blended, everything is in balance.
    Special commendation to the oud, which is very attractive and not weird in any way.
    The scent is not heavy, and can be reapplied as desired.

    09 May, 2014 (Last Edited: 06 July, 2014)

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    De Bachmakov by Different Company

    This is a scent in three very distinct phases.
    1. Green leaves and a toasted-nut chord. Green fig is fairly prominent. Like the leaf, not sure about the toasted nut.
    2. Prolific use of spice. Nutmeg is listed but it smells much more like cinnamon. Not a favorite note in the spice repertoire.
    3. A lovely, delicate floral-wood chord. So beautiful, but very restrained and fleeting.
    In my opinion only #3 is good, and it is so ephemeral that I can't muster enthusiasm for the scent overall.

    07 May, 2014

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    Greene Street by Etro

    I am voting "neutral" on this, but that is somewhat charitable.
    Really -- shouldn't a scent with GREEN(E) in the title be at lease somewhat green in style? This isn't. The basil is missing in action. This is a basic spicy scent, at times a bit sweet. Perhaps there is a hint of incense and resin, but not much more. Violet and geranium? Likewise nowhere to be found. The spice is OK, at times bland but at other times a bit "dirty" and interesting. However, the drydown is a bit sweet and ambery, and I don't like it.

    06 May, 2014

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