Perfume Reviews

Reviews by odysseusm

Total Reviews: 1662

Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules

This review is written with no prior knowledge of the alleged notes.
Crisp and citrus-y, with a kind of soapy background. Pleasant, clean, simple. Dry-down develops a mineral, pencil-lead aspect (very slight). Subtle, close to the skin.
> Now I am surprised to see mastic and incense listed as notes. Well, I do not really detect them -- so if you are looking for those notes and like them, you won't really find them here in any prominent way.
24th October, 2016

Pasha by Cartier

How has this very nice aromatic fougere escaped my notice until now? It has a lovely green herb and mint opening, with hints of camphor/lavender. There is a sustained peppery spice note from the coriander. Dry and airy, with a hint of rich sweetness from the rosewood. The thyme note develops and becomes somewhat earthy and herbal, but it is always balanced the freshness of the mint and lavender and the dryness of the spice. Slight mossy dry-down. Widely available, good quality -- a no-brainer for class!
23rd October, 2016

Marte Red Planet by Battistoni

A very brash scent, quite down-market in style. Loud bergamot and aggressive mint. Green, aromatic and herbal -- but pretty synth versions of those items. Faint wood. Shallow and metallic. Nothing to recommend.
21st October, 2016
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Dot by Comme des Garçons

A fruity floral. Green, with a vague resin and wood chord. Low-key, sits close to the skin. Ok, but poor longevity. An unremarkable offering from a usually distinctive house.
21st October, 2016

Ambre 114 by Histoires de Parfums

Buttery, sugary, vanilla. Like a freshly-baked cookie. Not my style but many like this sort of thing. Smells nice, just not anything I would like to wear or smell on someone. In a kitchen from the oven, yes. Some herbal notes do appear after a while.
16th October, 2016

Rosamunda by Laboratorio Olfattivo

This is a good, complex scent. It is a little on the sweet side, but since it is marketed on the feminine side that is to be expected. The rose note is good, certainly identifiable as such. The wood and oud notes are very good, easy to wear, earthy and intriguing. There is a hint of spice. I thought it was pepper but it is listed as saffron. The sweetness largely is in the opening and the scent settles into a pleasant wood-spice chord.
14th October, 2016

Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

Has a soft, powdery opening -- powdery, yet dry. The ginger is of the spice jar variety rather than freshly-cut root. The scent is subtle. The alleged "pumpkin flesh" note is, in my opinion, misleading. I don't get a rather earthy, fleshy, pulpy note at all -- nor do I get pumpkin pie (which one might expect). It is a distinctive note, and not familiar (whatever it is). The floral notes are so muted that I did not detect them -- and normally rose and heliotrope have a distinctive profile. The scent settles into a light ginger-musk, with a faint trace of grassy vetiver. I didn't find it to be compelling, and in fact after a while I got tired of it and washed it off. Not a wretched scent, and not offensive. Just didn't interest me.
10th October, 2016

Galop d'Hermès by Hermès

I had a little spritz in my local shop. They had not been given a tester so they were doling it out from a tiny sample bottle. Thus, I did not get a big application. At that point, I did not know the listed notes -- so here is my blind impression of the scent.
Pink grapefruit. Leather/oud. Some kind of floral dry-down. A musky-spice finale.
Looking at the notes, I am surprised that the note is quince rather than pink grapefruit. I don't know quince so well, but the note smelled exactly like a zesty pink grapefruit to me. Evidently the leather note is rather complex which may be why it suggested oud to me as well. Now, I certainly know rose notes (who doesn't?) but the floral here seemed quite vague and certainly not rose-like. Saffron as the spice? Sure, it was a dry, musky sort of spice.
Not something I'd seek out. It certainly (and predictably) continues the Hermes "leather" house note in yet another scent.
10th October, 2016

NOOUD by Baruti

This is a good, but not particularly distinctive scent. The wood and oud notes are pleasant, regardless of what makes them. The scent is pleasant, a bit simple and straightforward, and certainly inoffensive. Dry but with a suggestion of sweetness one often finds in wood scents. Briefly there is a turpenic note at the beginning which is pretty good. Good longevity.
04th October, 2016

Sandalwood by Art of Shaving

In my opinion, the aftershave balm has a nicer sandalwood note. This scent barely registered on my skin.
25th September, 2016

Excess No. 28 by Tokyo Milk

Woody in a respectable way. Background notes of amber, perhaps a hint of orange. Mineral/earth note from the patchouli. Fairly sweet but it is ok.
24th September, 2016

Black by Comme des Garçons

This is a good, basic sort of woody scent, the sort of thing CdG has as a specialty. Starts a bit sweet. Develops smoky, woody notes with a noticeable licorice aspect. The leather and wood give a gentleman's club atmosphere. Eventually the scent resolves into a simple but pleasant wood chord, of good longevity.
23rd September, 2016

Vert des Bois by Tom Ford

Delightful! Very attractive green scent, crisp and appealing. It has a sparkling, fizzy quality which may be from an aldehyde boost. Freshly-cut grass, hint of anise. White flowers soften and add a lovely note. Resinous note from the mastic. Not sweet, just right. Hint of smoke in the dry-down. Definitely worth checking out!
17th September, 2016
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Kingston Ferry by Olympic Orchids

I don't like this one at all. Starts very salty, herbal and aromatic -- clearly a seaside scene. No florals that I can detect. Then, it takes on the smell of urine. Like some animal has peed on a scrubby mint bush. The mint note grows, as well as a toasted, nutty note, resulting in a sort of hay/chamomile chord. There is a metallic note lurking in the background. I scrubbed it off.
17th September, 2016

Siam Proun by Olympic Orchids

Interesting range of opinions. On my skin, this immediately goes to thyme. I have never found a satisfactory thyme scent. Always, it starts off somewhat interesting and dusky. Then, minute by minute it gets heavier, sweeter, and bigger. Eventually I have to wash it off.
The citrus and lavender are non-existent (for me).
16th September, 2016

Red Fleece for Her by Brooks Brothers

A bit sweet, a bit "pink" in tone (light florals, spring-like), with a hint of berries. Safe and predictable, but quite pleasant. Not heavy or cloying. Fresh and fun.
16th September, 2016

Red Fleece for Him by Brooks Brothers

Typical men's mainstream scent. Sporty, fresh, a bit sweet. Hints of spice in a clean, bright style. Little bit of vanilla in the finish to give it a familiar, comfort-zone aura. everything is safe and predictable here, nothing offensive or loud. Many would like it.
16th September, 2016

Kyphi by Olympic Orchids

I have a mild thumbs-up. Some of its merit lies in the concept, namely an homage/recreation of an ancient Egyptian incense (Kyphi). That would have been a paste of raisins, frankincense and myrrh, honey and spices, with perhaps some herbal notes.
This scent leaves the raisin-y rich fruit to Serge Lutens territory, and attempts a lighter but still interesting take on the tradition. There is a brief engagement with conifer at the very beginning. This is frankincense and is regrettably brief. Of longer duration is the myrrh, here heady and soapy. The beeswax gives a honeyed note but also something waxy, almost like crayons. Calamus is an interesting touch -- earthy, sweet, green, reedy. Perhaps it is included to suggest papyrus growing along the Nile. The scent has a somewhat cool vibe, like an old pyramid chamber. The spices suggest pepper and cardamom. The scent is a bit sweeter and denser than I like, and I regret the shortness of the frankincense. Nonetheless, it is an intriguing scent and worth trying if these things sound appealing.
15th September, 2016

Arizona by Olympic Orchids

A 5-star thumbs up from me. I don't give those easily.
Green, coniferous, resinous, dry, sharp, aromatic, dusky. All the qualities I appreciate in a scent. Dense, almost "full-bodied" in construction, with a fruity note from the juniper that is almost like bergamot. Notes reminiscent of wild mint, artemesia, wild fennel, and scrubby undergrowth. In style, much like the Juniper Ridge foraged scents. Very satisfying to wear, and good longevity. A delight!
14th September, 2016

Vert d'Encens by Tom Ford

Neutral on this. I am not sure I care for the heliotrope, though I admit it does make for an interesting, distinctive scent. I feel however that it blunts the interesting conifers and resins.
Starts with a green, resinous note. There is a hint of something like coconut, which one sometimes finds in a fir balsam. I am thinking of Patyka Boise here. Also Krigler Good Fir. Sappy, coniferous, translucent, very good.
Then, the heliotrope appears, with its distinctive "cherry pie" note, also with hints of vanilla and cinnamon. Thankfully, the note is reasonably dry and airy (rather than sweet and cloying). But, it is distinctive.
The final phase combines the first two, with priority to the heliotrope in kind of a dirty, earthy phase.
In sum, this is an interesting scent. It is well made and distinctive. I feel it may have wide appeal. I feel it is a conifer for those who are otherwise afraid of conifers, or reluctant to try them.
13th September, 2016

Arsenic No. 17 by Tokyo Milk

Interesting concept, but a juvenile and mass-market execution.
The opening is fruity, sweet, gobs of vanilla and a bit metallic. When this retreats slightly, one can detect hints of a cut-grass and fennel chord. This is not bad, but still sweet and powdery. A toasted wheat note accompanies the anise. Too sweet and cheap smelling to be taken seriously.
11th September, 2016

Santal Carmin by Atelier Cologne

Mild thumbs-up. First of all, the vanilla is not oppressive or cloyingly sweet. It mildly softens the scent. I say this at the outset because vanilla often is a deal-breaker for me.
This is an acceptable woody scent. Hint of dusky saffron at the opening. Soft. At times a toasted, rubbery synthetic note pokes through, but it is not problematic. Hint of smoke. At times the woody note remains generic, at other times it is an identifiable creamy sandalwood.
Non-offensive, safe bet for the office or a gift.
11th September, 2016

Cozumel by Laboratorio Olfattivo

A mild thumbs-up.
Interestingly, on paper this presents as very green, with a dominant fig leaf (almost coconut) note in the opening.
On my skin, what I interpret as fig leaf is instead a sort of sweet basil note. The scent picks up the tobacco leaf aspect quite quickly, and predictably becomes rich, heady and even a bit soapy (as is sometimes the way with that note). There are hints of a smoky incense but they are not developed much. Stronger is a variety of wood notes, particularly a creamy sandalwood.
This is a pleasant, good scent. I wish it was greener, lighter, more herbal and drier; but that is my taste rather than a problem with the scent itself.
09th September, 2016

Santalum by Profumum

Terrific! A great sandalwood scent: rich, woody, and creamy. Very attractive. The cinnamon adds a gentle spice note, but it is not too sweet. I find the myrrh/incense note to be minor, a background to the development.
Basically, this is an excellent, dry sandalwood scent with depth and conviction.
03rd September, 2016

Bucoliques de Provence by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Soft, a bit powdery. More iris than leather. Hints of warm spice and the merest touch of leather. Also, a note that is a cross between green, paper, and very faint rubber. Maybe that also is the iris.
Not sweet in the florals, rather dry.
27th August, 2016

Bluegrass by EastWest Bottlers

Pleasant, rather faint scent. What is it? Not really grassy or herbal. Not sweet, thankfully. A somewhat indeterminate, fresh scent. Certainly not offensive or in fact likely to cause much reaction either way. The juice is a pretty blue colour.
25th August, 2016

Blanche de Bois by Parfums Lalun

Hmmm, the picture of then juice shows a nice rosy colour. My inherited sample is a very oxidized orange. I have found that these scents have a limited shelf life.
All the top and mid notes are gone. The base notes remain, and they are good. Definitely salty oak moss, touch of honeyed beeswax, rich tobacco, earthy-woody notes.
Perhaps if the juice is fresh one could assume that it would have good notes throughout.
25th August, 2016

Wonderoud by Comme des Garçons

I like it -- it is dry, woody, very light verging on translucent. A bit green and fresh. But, it is aptly called "Wonderoud" because I wonder WHERE the oud is? It must be somewhere, but I don't think it is in the scent. Maybe a very low-key incense note. But then it should be called "Wonderscense" and it would be an accurate name.
24th August, 2016

Salina by Laboratorio Olfattivo

Huge disappointment for anyone looking for a green, pine note. A tiny bit salty at the front end, then a real marine-beach-ozone clump. The sweetish musk I have found in some other scents in that line. Really unremarkable, quite linear, and just not attractive to me.
24th August, 2016

Esvedra by Laboratorio Olfattivo

Sweet, powdery lemon. Soft, sweet musk. Gets very sweet, verging on cloying, in the dry-down. The vetiver is so attenuated as to be non-existent.
24th August, 2016