Perfume Reviews

Reviews by odysseusm

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Total Reviews: 1658

Cologne by Etat Libre d'Orange

Nothing to complain about here, and no surprises given the notes. Lovely orange blossom and jasmine at the opening. Very well done. Not sweet, and light. Settles into a slightly soapy chord (typical of orange blossom scents) supported by very light musk. If there is leather, it is the merest hint and marries with the woody tone often found in orange blossom.
20th August, 2016

Phenomene Verte II by Parfums Lalun

The same comments I made in my review of PV version 1 apply here, to a greater extent. Anything with the word "verte" (green) in the name gets my attention. Unfortunately, it appears that the sample I inherited is rather over the hill. I debated on whether to post a review based on this faulty sample. In the end, I decided to do so. This is the only review to date, and it may give a sense of what the scent was like under better circumstances. Also, it is useful to know that this scent appears to have a short shelf life. That is often the case with natural and artisanal scents.
This is obviously gone. Sticky brown liquid. Toasted caramel, nutty smell. Nothing green. The good parts are hints of patchouli and sandalwood, the bad parts are just stinky.
18th August, 2016

Phenomene Verte by Parfums Lalun

Anything with the word "verte" (green) in the name gets my attention. Unfortunately, it appears that the sample I inherited is rather over the hill. I debated on whether to post a review based on this faulty sample. In the end, I decided to do so. This is the only review to date, and it may give a sense of what the scent was like under better circumstances. Also, it is useful to know that this scent appears to have a short shelf life. That is often the case with natural and artisanal scents.
The scent is barely green, and quite stale and musty. No florals, they are gone. Celery leaf (artemesia). Buttery amber, but not too sweet. Herbal notes emerge, especially thyme. Vague vetiver. When the stale note burns off, the scent is OK but not brilliant. Powdery dry-down from the amber.
18th August, 2016
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Beaver (original) by Zoologist Perfumes

This scent has received a lot of negative reviews. Here's a positive one. Full disclosure here -- I did not work at a zoo nor am zoo phobic. I consider myself sensitive to powerful scents. I don't particularly like musk as note. Yet, I like this scent.
It is in three stages. (1) A light fresh floral. A bit ozonic but OK, and the floral is not sweet. (2) Interesting development into this phase. Green and stalky. Good silvery iris, and a lovely, haunting smoke note. I quite like it. (3) Animalic, but not tortuous. Rather mild, and marries well with the smoke.
Perhaps a key is to under-apply and see how it suits. In massive doses it could get difficult.
I like this (2014) version with the smoke note, I'm glad to have the sample. I probably wouldn't want any more musks, which evidently appear in the 2016 version.
17th August, 2016

Ambre / Amber by L'Occitane

On my skin, instant vanilla. Sweet, rich. I do get some nice spices and the bergamot. It is a cozy, old-school and very feminine sort of scent. Utterly not my style but for those who like this sort of thing it is probably quite attractive.
16th August, 2016

Jhango Bay by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

"Jhango Bay was inspired by Jazz guitarist Django Reinhardt. It is a fresh woody chypre fragrance rich in Caribbean spices, masculine florals, warm woods and balsams. With notes of citrus, Jamaican bay rum, spices, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, cedarwood, sandalwood, natural musk and ambergris." (from a website)

Rich, spicy, resinous. Definitely in the bay rum school, with very prominent clove/pepper-spice and laurel aspects. A bit sweet with the spices, but not problematic. Not my style but it is well made. As with many clove-centric scents, I find a little goes a long way. The clove note quickly got too heavy and persistent for me. But if you love that note, then this is worth a try.
15th August, 2016 (last edited: 16th August, 2016)

Moss Gown by Providence Perfume Co.

I like it. Despite being labeled feminine, this is unisex and quite suitable for a guy to wear.
Mossy, woody tones alternate with a prominent violet leaf note. Hay (from chamomile) and a green-yellow note from the narcissus are one background note, the other florals (especially lilac) are another background note. Resinous, green, not sweet. Lovely! Definitely a walk in the forest. In style this is a cousin to Knize Forest, though not exactly the same.
15th August, 2016

Camélia Intrépide by Atelier Cologne

This is a very nice scent. There is what I interpret as a tea note, and it is excellent. Also, I find a light leather note which is quite attractive. The scent is dry (not sweet) and sits lightly on the skin. Has fresh, green-leafy notes. Later, it develops a gently haunting, smokey quality.
15th August, 2016

Citron d'Erable by Atelier Cologne

This has a very lemony opening. Then, a light woody-birch tang settles in. Crisp, refreshing. The wood tones are light and breezy. Don't be put off by -- or expect -- a rich maple syrup/foody scent. That is not what you will find here. A light summer scent, not a fall or winter scenario with sugaring-off, lumberjacks and pancakes.
15th August, 2016

Oud Fleur by Tom Ford

Rich but not heavy. Languid. A bit sweet-spicy but overall, moderately dry. Well balanced. A rather "tame" oud -- beautiful rather than medicinal/challenging. Hints of leather and earth. The florals are a blended chord rather than an identifiable rose note. Hint of smoke from the incense. Complex interplay of ingredients. The dry-down gets a bit earthy, maybe a bit skanky (to be expected from oud), with a damp pond or wet forest aspect.
14th August, 2016

Orchid Soleil by Tom Ford

Somewhat sweet, but that is to be expected in a floral marketed with a pink-gold colour. Fairly significant amounts of the tuberose and lily note -- a bit like a florist shop or funeral parlour. These are realistic notes, and well done in the initial stage. The scent is rich. It is a formidable floral cloud, make no mistake. The chestnut cream -- what an intriguing concept! Well, there is a slight nutty/creamy aspect, and it works well with the floral notes.
Not at all my style, but worth checking out. Ultimately I don't care for tuberose -- I find it to be a heavy, dense and somewhat fleshy note. l will keep the rating as neutral but I had to scrub it off eventually, finding it tiresome and heavy in the dry-down.
13th August, 2016

Noir Patchouli by Histoires de Parfums

I am not enamoured with patchouli, musk, leather and particularly not with vanilla. Thus, I approached this scent with trepidation.
It is not bad. Very 60's vibe. Rather sweet and rich. Patchouli in all three phases -- minty, tangy, earthy. Has the potential to be a bomb if over-applied. Not my style, but if you like patchouli then it is worth checking out.
12th August, 2016

Vento di Fiori by Bois 1920

As has been noted, this scent is very similar to Terre D'Hermes. It has citrus, dry herbal-spice notes, and a prominent flinty-mineral note. Cool and lively. Vento di Fiori is a bit plumper, rounder and more assertive than T D'H.
12th August, 2016
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Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir by Bulgari

A lovely scent, somewhat difficult for me to review accurately.
I feel that the floral notes and even the tea notes are so ephemeral that my skin gobbles them up before I can detect them. I will give the scent the benefit of the doubt and assume that they are there -- all I can detect is their ghostly echo. Here is what I can report:

There is a green, crisp and refreshing opening. Very quickly (2-4 seconds) it develops into a light oud. Very civilized and domesticated, essentially a light leathery sort of note. I feel that the florals are essentially softening and beautifying the oud and patchouli, rather than being distinct notes in themselves.
I did get the tea note on the paper strip, just not on my skin.
Try it for yourself and judge. It is a lovely scent.
11th August, 2016

Pachuli Kozha by Nishane

I think this is a very good scent. It is rich and smoky, yet at the same time cool and light. There is only a touch of sweetness -- the scent is never heavy or cloying. A green note, akin to celery leaf, is present. That is the artemesia. There is also an ink-and-paper note, a bit like what we see in Encre Noir. The scent is well constructed, in a sophisticated and elegant manner. Nothing in excess, and everything is well blended and handled with a deft touch. Usually, I don't care for patchouli but it is very good here: earthy, with a slight mint and mineral tone, light. The honey note is pleasant and not overdone. Dusky chamomile and dry pepper persist into the dry-down.
Now, all that being said, this is not bottle-worthy for me. Not really my style. But I think it is a marvellous scent, very well done, and I'm sure that many would appreciate it.
11th August, 2016

Cedre Atlas by Atelier Cologne

The reviews are mixed for this one, and I understand why. A scent named "Cedre Atlas" should have cedar as a prominent note.
As others have observed, the most prominent features are apricot and amber. Neither of those are notes I particularly enjoy.
The scent is OK despite these notes: it is not sweet and some of the dry-down feature rather faint but pleasant wood and vetiver notes.
The initial phase of the apricot-amber smells just like hot buttered popcorn. That settles down into a light dry apricot note, not too fruity.
10th August, 2016

Rose Anonyme by Atelier Cologne

As with their Fig scent, here with the Rose: where is the central ingredient? The rose must be very 'anonymous' here because I can't find it.
What I do encounter is a rather generic, fruity - spice scent. Somewhat sweet, and propped up by a vague and probably synthetic oud.
Unremarkable.
07th August, 2016

Figuier Ardent by Atelier Cologne

I kept waiting for the fig note to appear. It must be so attenuated that it escapes my notice.
This is an acceptable, dry, citrus-green scent. Those notes are good and natural-smelling.
However, given that the fig appears to be missing in action or not particularly distinctive, I can't give this more than a neutral rating.
07th August, 2016

Equipage Géranium by Hermès

I tremendously enjoy Equipage, so I was interested to see how this flanker would perform. I think it is a fine scent, but in my opinion it is so similar to the regular Equipage that I don't really see the point. Basically (as with Equipage) you get a lovely sandalwood with hints of leather and spice. Is Equipage Geranium a bit lighter and brighter than its older sibling? Perhaps, but only slightly. Are there rose notes? Yes, but on my skin they are so fleeting that they are of 2-3 second duration. The scent develops a slightly smoky, "dirty" spice note in the dry-down which is attractive, and marries well with the creamy sandalwood. But in all that, it does not exceed what we have already seen in Equipage. I like it, it is a good scent in itself, but as a flanker it doesn't really bring much new to the table.
07th August, 2016

Devilscent #1 : Foreplay by Olympic Orchids

All the heavy artillery is here. But, if applied lightly, it is a charming enough scent, still decadent to be sure but with a great attention to style and blending.
Rich but not too sweet. Smoky, sweaty, animalic, dark. Leather, grass and woods. Dark brown vibe. Pipe tobacco.
Projects an aura of rich sophistication. Gets a bit sweeter in the dry-down.
No surprises here -- it is advertised as a sexy powerful scent and it is that.
07th August, 2016

Woodcut by Olympic Orchids

This is a soliflore exploration of the scent of freshly-cut wood. The scent delivers a chord of notes which accurately convey such a scent: wood, sap, a slightly vanilla-caramel note as the sap's sugars are heated by the sawblade. I can imagine a woodshed, with sawdust motes shining in the sunlight coming through a window. Essentially a richer, rounder CdG's Hinoki, with much less turpentine.
05th August, 2016

Olympic Rainforest by Olympic Orchids

This is a beauty. Dry, resinous, coniferous. Excellent. The spruce and fir are immediately apparent. The coniferous notes are so bright they are like eucalyptus. The mushroom and earthy undergrowth notes are a nice background, as are green notes of leaf and moss. There is a gorgeous woody dry-down. A complete winner in my opinion.
04th August, 2016

10 Crosby Something Wild by Derek Lam

Haha -- not quite what I expected. This smells exactly like a coconut macaroon. So, whether you like this will depend on how much you want to smell like a cookie. Touch of generic wood in the dry-down.
04th August, 2016

10 Crosby Hi-Fi by Derek Lam

A charming, winsome scent. Very pretty, floral and pink. Delicate, spring-like with touches of green.
04th August, 2016

Blackbird by Olympic Orchids

The concept is straightforward: picking blackberries in a cool, dark forest. The scent achieves exactly that: the berry notes are very jammy and rich; and the forest notes are resinous, coniferous, and grassy. Each component is exactly what it should be, and the notes are accurate and evocative. I admire a scent which delivers what it promises.
However, do I like this combination? No. In my opinion, the fruity note dominates, to the detriment of the forest notes. The fruit is foreground, the forest is background. I would prefer the reverse. The fruit note lingers well into the dry-down. I wish it would clear away, because those forest notes are quite good. Those are in the Slumberhouse or O'Driu style.
Assessing this sort of scent really depends on how much you like the combination, or at least a rich berry note.
03rd August, 2016

10 Crosby Blackout by Derek Lam

Doesn't quite live up to its notes but is a pleasant scent. With osmanthus, I expect a bit of a jasmine note -- none here. With chai tea, I expect black tea -- none here.
The scent is a bit sweet at first but is OK. Settles into a rich scent, with plum/raisin (from the osmanthus) and a slightly spicy, leather-esque note.
01st August, 2016

Finisterre by Maria Candida Gentile

I like it. Scrubby gorse/pine notes. The sage is herbal and a bit rubbery, but that is OK. Dry and aromatic. The helichyrsum adds a dusky and slightly honeyed note. The marine note is of the salty sea breeze variety: pleasant, not ozonic. Well done! Airy. The amber is the ambergris mode (sea-side) rather than the buttery sweet king. Low-key, subtle, sits close to the skin. The pine note is refreshing and the wood note is well done. Wears well, pleasant throughout.
01st August, 2016

Version Originale by Jean-Marc Sinan

Definitely an old-school 80's fougere, with the typical "dirty" spice, old ashtray vibe. Deliberately macho, but if applied lightly it is charming. Peppery spice combines well with the carnation. Can't detect the lemon or lavender. The florals are clumped together into a rather solid mass, thankfully not sweet or cloying. The dry-down contains a lovely surprise -- a wistful and accurate lily of the valley note. A shy ray of springtime light in an otherwise darkish scent.
01st August, 2016

10 Crosby Drunk On Youth by Derek Lam

A very subtle scent. The green apple note is crisp, perhaps a bit metallic but not problematic. The honeysuckle is quite subdued, in fact the scent overall is not very floral. Hint of wood/stalk in the dry-down.
01st August, 2016

10 Crosby Afloat by Derek Lam

This is a charming, lovely floral. Delicate, spring-like, green-tinged and not too sweet. Sits close to the skin.
01st August, 2016