Perfume Reviews

Reviews by odysseusm

Total Reviews: 1559

Vert de Bois by Tom Ford

Delightful! Very attractive green scent, crisp and appealing. It has a sparkling, fizzy quality which may be from an aldehyde boost. Freshly-cut grass, hint of anise. White flowers soften and add a lovely note. Resinous note from the mastic. Not sweet, just right. Hint of smoke in the dry-down. Definitely worth checking out!
17th September, 2016

Kingston Ferry by Olympic Orchids

I don't like this one at all. Starts very salty, herbal and aromatic -- clearly a seaside scene. No florals that I can detect. Then, it takes on the smell of urine. Like some animal has peed on a scrubby mint bush. The mint note grows, as well as a toasted, nutty note, resulting in a sort of hay/chamomile chord. There is a metallic note lurking in the background. I scrubbed it off.
17th September, 2016

Siam Proun by Olympic Orchids

Interesting range of opinions. On my skin, this immediately goes to thyme. I have never found a satisfactory thyme scent. Always, it starts off somewhat interesting and dusky. Then, minute by minute it gets heavier, sweeter, and bigger. Eventually I have to wash it off.
The citrus and lavender are non-existent (for me).
16th September, 2016
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Red Fleece for Her by Brooks Brothers

A bit sweet, a bit "pink" in tone (light florals, spring-like), with a hint of berries. Safe and predictable, but quite pleasant. Not heavy or cloying. Fresh and fun.
16th September, 2016

Red Fleece for Him by Brooks Brothers

Typical men's mainstream scent. Sporty, fresh, a bit sweet. Hints of spice in a clean, bright style. Little bit of vanilla in the finish to give it a familiar, comfort-zone aura. everything is safe and predictable here, nothing offensive or loud. Many would like it.
16th September, 2016

Kyphi by Olympic Orchids

I have a mild thumbs-up. Some of its merit lies in the concept, namely an homage/recreation of an ancient Egyptian incense (Kyphi). That would have been a paste of raisins, frankincense and myrrh, honey and spices, with perhaps some herbal notes.
This scent leaves the raisin-y rich fruit to Serge Lutens territory, and attempts a lighter but still interesting take on the tradition. There is a brief engagement with conifer at the very beginning. This is frankincense and is regrettably brief. Of longer duration is the myrrh, here heady and soapy. The beeswax gives a honeyed note but also something waxy, almost like crayons. Calamus is an interesting touch -- earthy, sweet, green, reedy. Perhaps it is included to suggest papyrus growing along the Nile. The scent has a somewhat cool vibe, like an old pyramid chamber. The spices suggest pepper and cardamom. The scent is a bit sweeter and denser than I like, and I regret the shortness of the frankincense. Nonetheless, it is an intriguing scent and worth trying if these things sound appealing.
15th September, 2016

Arizona by Olympic Orchids

A 5-star thumbs up from me. I don't give those easily.
Green, coniferous, resinous, dry, sharp, aromatic, dusky. All the qualities I appreciate in a scent. Dense, almost "full-bodied" in construction, with a fruity note from the juniper that is almost like bergamot. Notes reminiscent of wild mint, artemesia, wild fennel, and scrubby undergrowth. In style, much like the Juniper Ridge foraged scents. Very satisfying to wear, and good longevity. A delight!
14th September, 2016

Vert d'Encens by Tom Ford

Neutral on this. I am not sure I care for the heliotrope, though I admit it does make for an interesting, distinctive scent. I feel however that it blunts the interesting conifers and resins.
Starts with a green, resinous note. There is a hint of something like coconut, which one sometimes finds in a fir balsam. I am thinking of Patyka Boise here. Also Krigler Good Fir. Sappy, coniferous, translucent, very good.
Then, the heliotrope appears, with its distinctive "cherry pie" note, also with hints of vanilla and cinnamon. Thankfully, the note is reasonably dry and airy (rather than sweet and cloying). But, it is distinctive.
The final phase combines the first two, with priority to the heliotrope in kind of a dirty, earthy phase.
In sum, this is an interesting scent. It is well made and distinctive. I feel it may have wide appeal. I feel it is a conifer for those who are otherwise afraid of conifers, or reluctant to try them.
13th September, 2016

Arsenic No. 17 by Tokyo Milk

Interesting concept, but a juvenile and mass-market execution.
The opening is fruity, sweet, gobs of vanilla and a bit metallic. When this retreats slightly, one can detect hints of a cut-grass and fennel chord. This is not bad, but still sweet and powdery. A toasted wheat note accompanies the anise. Too sweet and cheap smelling to be taken seriously.
11th September, 2016

Santal Carmin by Atelier Cologne

Mild thumbs-up. First of all, the vanilla is not oppressive or cloyingly sweet. It mildly softens the scent. I say this at the outset because vanilla often is a deal-breaker for me.
This is an acceptable woody scent. Hint of dusky saffron at the opening. Soft. At times a toasted, rubbery synthetic note pokes through, but it is not problematic. Hint of smoke. At times the woody note remains generic, at other times it is an identifiable creamy sandalwood.
Non-offensive, safe bet for the office or a gift.
11th September, 2016

Cozumel by Laboratorio Olfattivo

A mild thumbs-up.
Interestingly, on paper this presents as very green, with a dominant fig leaf (almost coconut) note in the opening.
On my skin, what I interpret as fig leaf is instead a sort of sweet basil note. The scent picks up the tobacco leaf aspect quite quickly, and predictably becomes rich, heady and even a bit soapy (as is sometimes the way with that note). There are hints of a smoky incense but they are not developed much. Stronger is a variety of wood notes, particularly a creamy sandalwood.
This is a pleasant, good scent. I wish it was greener, lighter, more herbal and drier; but that is my taste rather than a problem with the scent itself.
09th September, 2016

Santalum by Profumum

Terrific! A great sandalwood scent: rich, woody, and creamy. Very attractive. The cinnamon adds a gentle spice note, but it is not too sweet. I find the myrrh/incense note to be minor, a background to the development.
Basically, this is an excellent, dry sandalwood scent with depth and conviction.
03rd September, 2016

Bucoliques de Provence by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Soft, a bit powdery. More iris than leather. Hints of warm spice and the merest touch of leather. Also, a note that is a cross between green, paper, and very faint rubber. Maybe that also is the iris.
Not sweet in the florals, rather dry.
27th August, 2016
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Bluegrass by EastWest Bottlers

Pleasant, rather faint scent. What is it? Not really grassy or herbal. Not sweet, thankfully. A somewhat indeterminate, fresh scent. Certainly not offensive or in fact likely to cause much reaction either way. The juice is a pretty blue colour.
25th August, 2016

Blanche de Bois by Parfums Lalun

Hmmm, the picture of then juice shows a nice rosy colour. My inherited sample is a very oxidized orange. I have found that these scents have a limited shelf life.
All the top and mid notes are gone. The base notes remain, and they are good. Definitely salty oak moss, touch of honeyed beeswax, rich tobacco, earthy-woody notes.
Perhaps if the juice is fresh one could assume that it would have good notes throughout.
25th August, 2016

Wonderoud by Comme des Garçons

I like it -- it is dry, woody, very light verging on translucent. A bit green and fresh. But, it is aptly called "Wonderoud" because I wonder WHERE the oud is? It must be somewhere, but I don't think it is in the scent. Maybe a very low-key incense note. But then it should be called "Wonderscense" and it would be an accurate name.
24th August, 2016

Salina by Laboratorio Olfattivo

Huge disappointment for anyone looking for a green, pine note. A tiny bit salty at the front end, then a real marine-beach-ozone clump. The sweetish musk I have found in some other scents in that line. Really unremarkable, quite linear, and just not attractive to me.
24th August, 2016

Esvedra by Laboratorio Olfattivo

Sweet, powdery lemon. Soft, sweet musk. Gets very sweet, verging on cloying, in the dry-down. The vetiver is so attenuated as to be non-existent.
24th August, 2016

Duc de Vervins L'Extreme by Houbigant

Compared to the regular Duc de Vervins, this has a more prominent leather note. The usual soapy, salty notes associated with moss are to be found here. Much like Worth pour Homme Extreme. Old-school masculine, but it has considerable charm.
24th August, 2016

Remarkable People by Etat Libre d'Orange

I like this. It is a light, subtle scent. Remarkable in that it has no floral notes. It is not sweet, but neither is it dry in a challenging sense. It is a somewhat delicate creature which sits close to the skin.
Starts with light citrus notes of the yellow grapefruit variety, along with some light spices. The curry note is ephemeral, at times a bit savoury but other times very light. Certainly not problematic in any sense. Nice peppery dry-down: airy, light.
The scent is meant to be a sheer, translucent one. If it were powerful it would be something different.
21st August, 2016

Cologne by Etat Libre d'Orange

Nothing to complain about here, and no surprises given the notes. Lovely orange blossom and jasmine at the opening. Very well done. Not sweet, and light. Settles into a slightly soapy chord (typical of orange blossom scents) supported by very light musk. If there is leather, it is the merest hint and marries with the woody tone often found in orange blossom.
20th August, 2016

Phenomene Verte II by Parfums Lalun

The same comments I made in my review of PV version 1 apply here, to a greater extent. Anything with the word "verte" (green) in the name gets my attention. Unfortunately, it appears that the sample I inherited is rather over the hill. I debated on whether to post a review based on this faulty sample. In the end, I decided to do so. This is the only review to date, and it may give a sense of what the scent was like under better circumstances. Also, it is useful to know that this scent appears to have a short shelf life. That is often the case with natural and artisanal scents.
This is obviously gone. Sticky brown liquid. Toasted caramel, nutty smell. Nothing green. The good parts are hints of patchouli and sandalwood, the bad parts are just stinky.
18th August, 2016

Phenomene Verte by Parfums Lalun

Anything with the word "verte" (green) in the name gets my attention. Unfortunately, it appears that the sample I inherited is rather over the hill. I debated on whether to post a review based on this faulty sample. In the end, I decided to do so. This is the only review to date, and it may give a sense of what the scent was like under better circumstances. Also, it is useful to know that this scent appears to have a short shelf life. That is often the case with natural and artisanal scents.
The scent is barely green, and quite stale and musty. No florals, they are gone. Celery leaf (artemesia). Buttery amber, but not too sweet. Herbal notes emerge, especially thyme. Vague vetiver. When the stale note burns off, the scent is OK but not brilliant. Powdery dry-down from the amber.
18th August, 2016

Beaver by Zoologist Perfumes

This scent has received a lot of negative reviews. Here's a positive one. Full disclosure here -- I did not work at a zoo nor am zoo phobic. I consider myself sensitive to powerful scents. I don't particularly like musk as note. Yet, I like this scent.
It is in three stages. (1) A light fresh floral. A bit ozonic but OK, and the floral is not sweet. (2) Interesting development into this phase. Green and stalky. Good silvery iris, and a lovely, haunting smoke note. I quite like it. (3) Animalic, but not tortuous. Rather mild, and marries well with the smoke.
Perhaps a key is to under-apply and see how it suits. In massive doses it could get difficult.
I like this (2014) version with the smoke note, I'm glad to have the sample. I probably wouldn't want any more musks, which evidently appear in the 2016 version.
17th August, 2016

Ambre / Amber by L'Occitane

On my skin, instant vanilla. Sweet, rich. I do get some nice spices and the bergamot. It is a cozy, old-school and very feminine sort of scent. Utterly not my style but for those who like this sort of thing it is probably quite attractive.
16th August, 2016

Jhango Bay by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

"Jhango Bay was inspired by Jazz guitarist Django Reinhardt. It is a fresh woody chypre fragrance rich in Caribbean spices, masculine florals, warm woods and balsams. With notes of citrus, Jamaican bay rum, spices, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, cedarwood, sandalwood, natural musk and ambergris." (from a website)

Rich, spicy, resinous. Definitely in the bay rum school, with very prominent clove/pepper-spice and laurel aspects. A bit sweet with the spices, but not problematic. Not my style but it is well made. As with many clove-centric scents, I find a little goes a long way. The clove note quickly got too heavy and persistent for me. But if you love that note, then this is worth a try.
15th August, 2016 (last edited: 16th August, 2016)

Moss Gown by Providence Perfume Co.

I like it. Despite being labeled feminine, this is unisex and quite suitable for a guy to wear.
Mossy, woody tones alternate with a prominent violet leaf note. Hay (from chamomile) and a green-yellow note from the narcissus are one background note, the other florals (especially lilac) are another background note. Resinous, green, not sweet. Lovely! Definitely a walk in the forest. In style this is a cousin to Knize Forest, though not exactly the same.
15th August, 2016

Camélia Intrépide by Atelier Cologne

This is a very nice scent. There is what I interpret as a tea note, and it is excellent. Also, I find a light leather note which is quite attractive. The scent is dry (not sweet) and sits lightly on the skin. Has fresh, green-leafy notes. Later, it develops a gently haunting, smokey quality.
15th August, 2016

Citron d'Erable by Atelier Cologne

This has a very lemony opening. Then, a light woody-birch tang settles in. Crisp, refreshing. The wood tones are light and breezy. Don't be put off by -- or expect -- a rich maple syrup/foody scent. That is not what you will find here. A light summer scent, not a fall or winter scenario with sugaring-off, lumberjacks and pancakes.
15th August, 2016

Oud Fleur by Tom Ford

Rich but not heavy. Languid. A bit sweet-spicy but overall, moderately dry. Well balanced. A rather "tame" oud -- beautiful rather than medicinal/challenging. Hints of leather and earth. The florals are a blended chord rather than an identifiable rose note. Hint of smoke from the incense. Complex interplay of ingredients. The dry-down gets a bit earthy, maybe a bit skanky (to be expected from oud), with a damp pond or wet forest aspect.
14th August, 2016