Reviews by odysseusm

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    odysseusm
    Canada Canada

    Showing 751 to 780 of 1239.
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    Scent Intense by Costume National

    Intensely sweet, quite sugary. Very floral, with hints of smoke. A clean bright amber base.
    I don’t like sweet, super-floral, or amber so that’s all I have to say.

    17 October, 2009 (Last Edited: 21st November, 2009)

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    Eau de Gentiane Blanche by Hermès

    I like this scent. It is minimalist and translucent, yet I find it has presence and interesting features. It seems attractive and sensual: I enjoy it on myself and I’d like to smell it on someone.
    I don’t find some aspects which others have reported. I don’t get any pepper, no indolic/iris notes, nothing like vetiver. I think it is only very slightly a green scent.
    It starts with a woody-earthy opening that has hints of green. This is a very interesting phase, but unfortunately it only lasts a minute or two. There seems to be a pause, a moment of olfactory silence. Then the lovely incense and light musk notes emerge. These are extremely attractive. They are subtle and sit close to the skin. They have a somewhat clean-soapy character, and a bit of wood.
    This is not a flashy scent, and it has very little sillage and limited longevity. It is a scent for those who would get close to you.

    16 October, 2009

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    Aqua Allegoria Gentiana by Guerlain

    This is a nice scent. It opens with a very citrusy-green chord. The citrus notes are crisp, appetizing and invigorating. I’m not sure what gentian smells like, but I do note a grassy-green note, perhaps it is that. Gradually a pear note emerges, and it is interesting. It starts off like the dusky green skin of a pear, gradually it rounds in to a more fruity-earthy scent. This rounding process is aided by the emergence of the musk. Thankfully, the vanilla is extremely subdued here. The scent finishes with a soft, round and mellow note of good longevity. This is not my style of scent, but I can say that it is very well done and attractive.

    14 October, 2009

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    Orinoco by Scentsational of Huntington

    Crisp, clean, green, herbaceous, slightly woody”
    This is quite sweet, not crisp at all. It does have a soapy-clean vibe. The green is youthful: it is like green apples, lily of the valley and fresh-cut grass. No herbs or wood to be seen here. This is a pretty scent, perky and innocent. I can imagine it on a cheery young woman but certainly not on me.

    13 October, 2009

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    Envy for Men by Gucci

    I have to put my cards on the table: I dislike amber, particularly of the sweet and cloying variety. I find that the amber in Gucci Envy for Men is of that kind. Thus, the scent can’t get my endorsement.
    But what can I say about it, apart from the amber issue? It has a soft cloud of spices, which is pleasant if a bit indefinite. The most I can detect is the occasional hint of sharp ginger. The myrrh (opoponax), patchouli and musk are sweet. The scent is smooth, and perhaps a bit innocuous. There is nothing to offend or challenge here, and many people like seem to like it.
    Then the dry-down ramps up the amber, and eventually I have to wash it off.

    13 October, 2009

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    Incense by Ava Luxe

    Notes: bergamot, Roman chamomile, elemi, frankincense, copal, myrrh, labdanum, katafray, Tamil Nadu sandalwood, cedar, Tibetan musk, Peruvian balsam.
    I think the name “Incense” is not quite accurate. I’d call this “old money”. This scent gives me the impression of a well-heeled gentlemen’s club; with leather chairs, paneled walls, brandy and cedars. If there is any incense burning it is in the distant background.
    The scent begins with a fleeting vanilla note… this will return as the ambery dry-down much later. Then appears a very dark, earthy and smoky note. It is powerful, rich, not too sweet at this point. As a counterpoint to that, I detect hints of dry resinous notes which are the incense. The sandalwood becomes pungent and aromatic. Finally, the dry-down after several hours is less appealing to me, by now it is a fairly sweet and buttery amber.
    So I find some things to appreciate here, but I wish for more incense, particularly of the dry variety.

    10th October, 2009

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    Kiehl's Pour Homme Essence Oil by Kiehl's

    Fir needle, cistus, vetiver, patchouli
    I think this is a very nice scent, very “brown” in tone. The fir needles are well done and have good duration. The vetiver-patchouli notes give an earthy tinge, and the patchouli increases and becomes leathery (but not obnoxious). The labdanum gives a slight buttery note. This reminds me of Equipage. There is a great shower/bath liquid in this scent as well.

    09 October, 2009

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    Kiehl's Coriander Essence Oil by Kiehl's

    This scent was formulated in 1946, and it is interesting to imagine it in the latter years of WW2 since it is an unusual, minimalist sort of scent. It starts off a bit sweet, but in the ultimate dry-down it gets satisfyingly dry. The coriander oil is the main ingredient; though I imagine I detect a hint of orange rind at the opening, and a bit of patchouli in the latter stages. As with the spice, the oil here is nutty, a bit sweet, spicy and aromatic, “brown” and appetizing. At times the scent has a coconut-like character in its early stages. The scent settles into an earthy, even slightly foresty tone that is quite pleasant and sits close to the skin. As an oil, it sits close to the skin and develops slowly.

    08 October, 2009

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    Vent Vert (new) by Pierre Balmain

    I hope I may be allowed some latitude here. I have put reviews of the 1947 EDT and EDP, as well as the 1990 second version, in the "original" VV category. Since the 1999 third version is the one in current production, it seems to me that the "new" category is that version -- which I cannot comment upon.

    07 October, 2009

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    Vent Vert (original) by Pierre Balmain

    Vent Vert (original) by Pierre Balmain
    [I] Many thanks to 3xasif, a real fan of VV and a great nose, who supplied me with samples and information. The matter before us is complex. The site Bois de Jasmin has a useful history of the scent. [/I]
    [B] 1947 Original VV in EDT format [/B], formulated by Cellier. This is my favorite version. It is a lovely green-yellow colour. True to its reputation, this VV has a fabulous galbanum note, yet that is so well balanced and played against a gorgeous floral chord. The galbanum is dusky, smoky and haunting. The florals are a complex, beautiful cloud. Then the scent settles into its old-school mossy base. This has real depth and character, with a slightly soapy tone. I love galbanum and moss, and this is a wonderful combination of those.
    [B] Original VV in EDP format [/B]. This is a deep gold colour. It is spicier, deeper and richer than the EDT version. The galbanum is more prominent, and the scent is perhaps less complex and more focused than the EDT. It is powerful, and the dominance of the galbanum puts it near Sisley’s Eau de Campagne. Although there are less florals, because of the richness the scent seems sweeter. It is amazing, but I feel it suffers in comparison to the EDT format.
    [B] Second version of VV, 1990 in EDT [/B], formulated by Becker. The galbanum has been reduced. The scent seems sharper, leaner, thinner, fresher than the original. It suggests a sappy green rather than a dusky green. More acidic, less mossy; it is a perhaps prettier, younger, more innocent version. The florals are not as gorgeous. And the iris is much more prominent, and enduring. Pyramid notes suggest that the iris has moved from the mid to the base. I’m not a fan of iris, so for me this is my least favorite version.
    …And I haven’t even tried the notorious third version from 1999. I hope I have done justice to this complex scent, and issue.

    07 October, 2009

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    Very Irresistible for Men Fresh Attitude by Givenchy

    Notes: mint, grapefruit, basil, mocha, cedar.
    It is hard to believe that a scent can be both vacuous and irritating, but this one succeeds in that dubious category. It is a very sporty, minty scent; aggressively fresh and quite strong. It does not smell natural at all, in fact it reminds me of those car deodorizers one hangs in the windshield. An hour later I still found it to be nasty, and I scrubbed it off.
    Very avoidable with a bad attitude.

    05 October, 2009

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    1869 by Acca Kappa

    Notes: cardamom, geranium, iris, violet, amber, vanilla, leather.
    This is an interesting scent. The first time I tried it, I noticed the warm spices and the hint of leather – and I thought of Gucci Nobile. The second time I tried it, I noticed the violet leaves, and thought of Grey Flannel. This is a classy, masculine scent. The warm spices and the cool violet work well together, in a quietly assertive way. It sits close to the skin and has good longevity.

    05 October, 2009

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    Cèdre by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    My reaction to this is simple. Amber, amber, and more amber. Will someone deliver me from this amber hell? I’m even begging for tuberose (normally not a thing I seek) just for some relief… alas, there’s none here for me. Certainly no cedar, which is why I thought I’d be interested. This is a very sweet, toothache-inducing scent. I certainly get the bubblegum reference. I also get an image of rubber erasers in a sweaty little hand, and coconut. This could be a celebrity teenybopper scent. Did I mention that this is essentially a syrupy, ambery goo? Scrubber. I’m bootin’ this Luten.

    05 October, 2009

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    Earth by Scentsational of Huntington

    Very rich, deep, herbal and woodsy, on a warm patchouli base.” I quote the product blurb because I really can’t improve on this description. I am surprised at how much I enjoy this scent, since the patchouli is so prominent. I don’t dislike patchouli, but neither am I a big fan of it. It is done well here – it is powerful but not obnoxious. It does give an earthy, woodsy note to the scent. At times it has the leathery and nutty aspects I often find in patchouli. The scent is suave and sensual. I think patchouli fans would love this.

    05 October, 2009

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    Eau du Contadour by L'Occitane

    Top: lemon, lavender, sage and juniper
    Mid: bitter orange, mint and hay
    Base: fern, rose and sandalwood cyst
    I am somewhat disappointed in this scent. I don’t get the citrus notes or the lavender. On me, it is a [B] very [/B] powdery scent. It really has an aspect like baby powder a lot of the time. Essentially, it is a minty-grassy sort of scent. That’s OK with me, I like grassy and hay-like scents, and I don’t mind the mint. The ‘fern’ probably comes from coumarin or something similar, which will add to the hay-like character. I just wish there were more aromatic/green notes, and less powder. Definitely a warm-weather scent, on a cool day it just seems to add to the coolness and never warms up.

    05 October, 2009

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    Afire by Neil Morris Fragrances

    This is one of more odious scrubbers I’ve come across recently. Buttery caramel-vanilla notes dominate, in fact that’s all I get from beginning to end. A very sweet, persistent, cloying candy smell. Bleccch! Where’s the wood and frankincense? I don’t like it on me, I wouldn’t like it on anyone else.

    29 September, 2009

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    Rose 31 by Le Labo

    Notes: rose, cumin, olibanum (frankincense), cedar, amber, Gaïac wood (champaca), cistus (labdanum), “animal note.”
    I like this scent, but I feel it could be more. It is advertised as a rose scent for men – and yet the rose note on me is pretty meager. What dominates is cumin and cedar. Thus, I find this to be a interestingly dry, slightly sweaty, woody scent. The opening is excellent, with dry resinous frankincense notes. But these quickly get lost in the cumin (sweat) and cedar (pencil shavings) notes. These are controlled and so not obnoxious, but they are definitely the focal-point. Somewhere in all of this are hints of rose, but they never successfully surface.
    Something like Czech and Speake No. 88 does the male rose presentation more successfully, in my opinion. I like woody scents, and this is well done in that type. But since the name is rose, it should have more rose!

    28 September, 2009

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    Hesperides by Fresh

    As the name suggests, this is a citrus fruit bowl. Lots of grapefruit here (both pink and yellow) with lemon and orange as well. The scent is crisp, acidic, natural-smelling. It doesn’t really go any further, other than softening a bit and showing a very light wood base. Pretty good for longevity. A refreshing summer spritz, nothing profound.

    24 September, 2009

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    Fleurs d'Oranger by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    This is a gorgeous, substantial, sensual fragrance. It has lots of lovely flowers and yet it has an earthy and slightly sweaty quality that could appeal to men or women. The opening of orange blossoms is gorgeous, as it should be. The middle of white flowers is a pretty cushion. The jasmine reminds me of jasmine tea, and the tuberose is fleshy and a bit indolic (as usual). We have a powerfully beating floral heart here. Musk and cumin give an animalic quality and an assertive edge to the florals. I like it.

    24 September, 2009

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    Herbissimo Mejorana by Dana

    Here’s another example of this amazing budget line (see also Juniper/Enebro). This starts with a very green, grassy, mossy-foresty chord, and pretty much stays there. But this chord is so attractive and smooth that I don’t mind. A bit of an earthy quality comes in from time to time. Simple and inexpensive, but incredible value since it smells so good!

    23 September, 2009

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    Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca by Guerlain

    Top: clover leaf, Italian lemon
    Mid: spearmint, green tea
    Base: lily of the valley, cyclamen, pear flower
    This is a lovely green scent, a subtle and refreshing summer spritz. It has perky fresh-cut grass notes which alternate with minty notes. At first, the spearmint seems a bit aggressive and like toothpaste, but it settles down. Clover, hay and green grass notes suggest fields in the cool morning air. This scent is a cousin to Virgilio – it has the same pastoral vibe. The dry-down is not overtly floral, these elements just deepen the grassy notes.

    23 September, 2009

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    Herbissimo Enebro by Dana

    Herbissimo Mountain Juniper (Enebro)
    This quirky and obscure little scent is excellent! It is a lovely green splash, with minty, coniferous and mossy notes. It is a bit like Aqua di Selva, but smoother and nicer. Sure it is simple, but the low price makes this a great value and worthy of 5 stars.

    22 September, 2009

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    White Patchouli by Tom Ford

    Notes include florals (bergamot, peony, jasmine, rose), spice (coriander, ambrette seeds), blond wood, incense, patchouli
    Not a bad scent – it starts quite well but runs out of steam at the end. The opening is a beautiful cloud of white floral notes, married with a rich citrus chord from the bergamot. The scent here is lovely, juicy, vibrant, lush but not heavy. It is a darling sort of scent, very attractive and romantic, and largely feminine. Then it moves into an interesting clean-soapy phase, with the coriander giving a fresh and woody aspect. The scent here is bright and fresh, and seems unisex to me. The dry-down is less interesting, being a light and sweet patchouli note, with predictably tangy and slightly nutty tones. This is not my style at all, but I can find some things to commend.

    21st September, 2009

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    Holy Water by Demeter Fragrance Library

    I really wanted to like this one. I love the concept, have been in many churches and appreciate the ambiance. Sadly, for me there is little to enjoy here. On me, this is a vague and wispy scent, having little substance and some rather odd notes. It starts with one of the worst, piercing rubbing-alcohol notes I’ve experienced. When this abates, I get various similar and indeterminate notes suggestive of rubber, old erasers, old sneakers left in a locker, sweaty backs on a varnished pew, and old metal keys in a church cupboard. All of these float on a thin, watery base. Not a religious experience, in my books.

    21st September, 2009

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    Carlos Santana for Women by Carlos Santana

    This is a real sweetie-pie of a scent. Foody and floral, it has a young-girl vibe. The chocolate appeared for me immediately. The florals are creamy, but I can’t detect individual flower types – they are simply a mélange. The chocolate diminishes somewhat, and thankfully is not vanilla-heavy. The musk is light, and I can detect no sandalwood at all. The iris becomes prominent later in the scent, with its typical powdery and bright-metallic notes. Perhaps this is what gives a somewhat shimmering, watery atmosphere at this point. The scent becomes quite sweet in the drydown.

    13 September, 2009

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    Neil Morris for Takashimaya New York by Takashimaya

    Top: Black Currant, Mandarin, Bergamot, Aldehydes
    Heart: Plum Blossom, Jasmine Tea, Japanese Cherry Blossom, Bamboo, Dossinia Orchid, Narcissus
    Base: Cedar, Oak, Tonka, Orris, Oud
    Takasimaya opens with tangy bergamot and juicy dark berries. This is very good fruit: it is very fresh, not heavy, good enough to eat and lovely to wear. This softens into a blossom cloud, which quickly deepens into a most interesting incense note. Is it sad or merely introspective? I wish that note stayed longer. The oud is quite lovely, not medicinal in any way. But like clouds on a sunny day, the scent clouds part, and there is a bright sappy-green bamboo note. The scent ends on a somewhat sweet aldehydic and bright iris-floral note, I don’t get any of the woods.

    12 September, 2009

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    Duc de Vervins by Houbigant

    I have completely revised my review and given the scent an upgrade. I like it a lot.
    It’s hard to find its fragrance notes. One source lists citrus, aromatics, spices, greens and woods. Another lists citrus, lavender, spices, amber and oakmoss. It is probably best classified as a fougere.
    It is very green, dry and aromatic. At times I get lavender distinctly, other times not. Certainly there is a grassy, coumarin-hay note. Pepper and clove are among the spices, and these give a cool, minty-air note… and a real barbershop vibe. A salty, mossy note develops. At times this is like tarragon or even celery leaves; at other times it is a bit tangy like patchouli. The moss gets a bit bigger but I don’t find it problematic or heavy. The dry-down is very nice, salty-mossy and satisfying.

    11th September, 2009 (Last Edited: 10th January, 2011)

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    Acqua da Toeletta by Piazetta di Portofino

    Top: bergamot, petitgrain, basil, rosemary
    Mid: cedarwood, vetiver
    Base: musk, patchouli

    I like this scent very much. I’m predisposed to enjoy a Mediterranean blend of citrus, herbs and vetiver. This starts with lovely citrus and light herbal notes. I’ll emphasize that the herbs are really light here. They add a bit of complexity but are not foreground. This is a green-citrus scent at this point. Gradually a marvelous vetiver note emerges. It continues into the dry-down, which has light woods, delicate musk and very restrained patchouli. In other words, there is nothing here to challenge – all is suave, cheerful, even effortless. A feel-good scent, in my opinion.

    10th September, 2009

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    Feu d'Orange Intense by L'Occitane

    Notes: blood orange, sweet orange, tangerine, lemon, vetiver, gaiac wood, vanilla resins

    This starts as an orange-based, refreshing and simple summer spritz. Here, it is a light, rather translucent scent – various notes shimmer in and out. I say this because the scent is called “intense” and it is really nothing of the sort. The dreaded vanilla is admirably restrained here. I can detect it, but it is not overtly sweet. It simply adds a softening touch to the citrus notes. I also get a variety of woody notes, which seem a bit reedy or even metallic. The dry-down gets interesting. It thankfully continues in the not-sweet category, and has a close to the skin, haunting vibe. My one caveat is that I think it could be a bit more orangey. In summary: this is an intriguing scent, and the bottle, colour and overall presentation are distinctive and well done. It is dry and not very fruity, so it is certainly a unisex scent.

    09 September, 2009

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    Cypress by Demeter Fragrance Library

    This scent is “the distillation of the leaves, twigs and cones of the cypress tree” according to the Demeter site.
    This is quite a scent! It is very coniferous, very green, very medicinal and powerful. I can’t see it having a wide appeal. I like pine-y and medicinal scents, so I can appreciate its quirky and simple focus. The opening is quite lively and fresh. The drydown is much like lineament, with a hint of Granny Smith apple skin!

    09 September, 2009

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