Reviews by odysseusm

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    odysseusm
    Canada Canada

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    Eau de Gloire by Parfum d'Empire

    This review replaces my previous one of September 2009.
    I agree with foetidus, Eau de Gloire is a male-oriented scent (though women could choose to wear it). This starts with good scrubby green notes: they are dusky, aromatic and very herbal. The scent is rich and yet haunting, and it grows on you with repeated wearings. The anise note is pronounced, but nothing like licorice. The very herbal character of this reminds me of Monocle 2:Laurel, though this scent is not as dry and is perhaps less linear. The scent picks up some mossy and very light leather notes in the dry-down. I like it, it has Mediterranean élan.

    02 September, 2009 (Last Edited: 02 September, 2010)

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    Wall Street by Bond No. 9

    This is a green scent… so I have to try it. This is an ozone-marine scent… so I should avoid it. Such was my mental dilemma. In the end, I bought the 6 ml bottle. I like it but I don’t think I would find the big fancy bottle a worthwhile investment.
    This is a crisp green scent, and it is constructed from unusual elements. The ozone and marine notes (normally a problem for me) work here. They are handled well (not to excess) and give the scent a refreshing character. The cucumber and kale give a brisk, slightly metallic green note, meant to suggest crisp bank notes. High concept? Sure, but this is an agreeable fragrance, though not brilliant.

    02 September, 2009

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    Burt's Bees Natural Skin Care for Men Cologne by Burt's Bees

    On me, this was lemon and plummy bergamot and that's it. Didn't get any of the woody notes, which I particularly seek. Not enough here to interest me, at any price.

    27 August, 2009

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    Firewood / Feu de Bois by Ava Luxe

    On me, this is an incense and birch tar scent – I don’t get cedar or wood smoke. I’ve tried it twice. The first time it seemed resinous, dry and green to me; and thus I liked it a lot. The second time, the birch was much more noticeable. It combined with what I assume is myrrh to create a somewhat sweet, perfumed and tangy note that is a bit challenging. I can see why some people call that ‘synthetic’ or ‘plastic’. I like incense scents a lot, so I can find things to appreciate here. But it is not bottle-worthy for me.

    27 August, 2009

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    Fleurs de Sel by Miller Harris

    This is a very good scent. It is in three stages, and in my opinion if it retained more of its first half characteristics it would be a superb scent. The first stage is an excellent green herbal chord, just the sort of thing I love. The clary sage gives the usual dusky dry note. Thyme is prominent but handled well and does not suggest salad dressing. The rosemary is minty, almost like eucalyptus. Together these three elements make a striking, even unusual combination. It is somewhat medicinal, a bit suggestive of lineament – and yet very compelling (at least for lovers of green notes). The floral heart seems very brief to me. Clearly iris is the dominant note, and it too is well done – a bit fleshy and earthy but not oppressive. The base alternates between a sweetish leather and a salty moss. I don’t find this to be a VERY salty scent, I just get a hint of salt. The scent is restrained, complex, and classy.

    26 August, 2009

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    Le Petit Grain by Miller Harris

    Top: sweet orange, angelica racine, bergamot from Italy and Sicilian lemon. Rosemary, red thyme, French tarragon and lavender.
    Heart: petigrain essence and Tunisian neroli
    Base: oak-moss, vetiver and patchouli leaves
    This is a very fine scent. The opening is bright, refreshing, and very citrusy. The herbs quickly join in. Thyme and tarragon are especially noticeable, but not overdone. Rosemary then appears with its typical minty-pine freshness. Then, the beating mellow orange heart becomes apparent, and it is lovely. And finally, the dry-down is very satisfying, containing cushy vetiver and a lightly salted moss note.

    25 August, 2009

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    Messe de Minuit by Etro

    I find this to be a BIG scent, and one dominated by myrrh. The citrus opening quickly moves into a sweet, perfumed blast of cinnamon spice and myrrh. I didn’t notice any cumin, which normally is an assertive spice. At this stage, I find the scent loud and a bit garish, and reminiscent of bug spray. Gradually the presentation calms down, and interestingly the scent becomes somewhat less sweet and heavy. The myrrh becomes more incense-like, more like the air in a cathedral. However, if there is frankincense here I don’t notice it. In my limited experience, I find myrrh to be perfume-y and heady (even a bit soapy); whereas frankincense seems dry, green and aromatic. I like incense scents but find this a bit rich. I appreciate some of its notes but I don’t think I’d seek it out.

    24 August, 2009

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    En Sens de Bois by Miller Harris

    The title is a pun in French. Literally, it means “in a sensation of woods” but it sounds like “incense of woods.” The scent lives up to its name: it is a lovely woody-incense fragrance. It starts with a very good dusky-green note, which to me suggests that there is some galbanum and possibly clary sage at work. The scent takes on a haunting quality: it seems both airy and powerful at the same time. It is quite dry, with no prominent floral or sweet notes. The woods develop beautifully in the dry-down, and the patchouli is restrained. The incense notes are subtle but enjoyable. The scent sits close to the skin and has a comfortable, comforting feel, just as the blurb says.

    21st August, 2009

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    Tangerine Vert by Miller Harris

    This has a lovely citrus-herbal opening in the classic EDC style. I can’t pick out the individual citrus notes, they just register as ‘citrus’. I find this to be much different from Eau D’Orange Verte -- TV is more herbal-green. Marjoram is a mild herb: dusky and bit earthy. Those qualities are here, and they are continued in the mossy notes. Then, something interesting and somewhat perplexing happens for me. The scent develops an airy-fresh aspect: it is cool, spacious, ozonic. This might be the geranium interacting with the musk and moss. At times, the scent is pleasant and calming, at other times it is a bit synthetic (like powdered laundry detergent). I am not a fan of ozonic scents so I struggle through this phase. The moss is a longevity monster, it quietly maintains a presence for many hours. Because of the ozonic middle, I only give a neutral. For those who don’t mind this aspect, it will be a pleasant scent.

    21st August, 2009

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    Nouvelle Edition Figue Amere by Miller Harris

    Top: bergamot, mandarin
    Mid: “bitter ripe green figs,” salt, Narcissus poeticus, rose, green violet leaves
    Base: cedar, amber, sea moss
    This opens with a nice, earthy fig scent. Oddly, this scent projects more coconut than Premiere Figuer (regular or extreme) by L’Artisan Parfumer – yet there is no coconut listed here. In comparison to the L’Artisan products, this is much more floral, creamier, sweeter. It is not a lean green scent in any sense. Lots of sillage here folks. The drydown is sweet and ambery, and I don’t get any cedar. This is not a bad scent at all, but I don’t care for the style. Others may well appreciate it.

    21st August, 2009

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    Daim Blond by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I suspect there is an error in the BN pyramid. I don’t know what a Pallida is, but Iris Pallida is a type of pale Iris.
    This has a sweet, somewhat spicy opening which seems a bit like furniture polish. The nutty and spicy hawthorn notes mix with the fruity apricot notes. Yet surprisingly, amidst all these warm notes is a cool and airy, almost steely-metallic character. I find this highly unusual, it certainly was not what I expected. The scent is atypical for Lutens, being neither heavy nor opulent. It is too fruity to suit me. There is nothing unpleasant here – and yet I don’t like it (even setting the fruit aspect). It just seems like an odd, and not particularly attractive scent.

    18 August, 2009

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    Palais Jamais by Etro

    Fragrance notes mentioned on Etro card: yerba mate, sambac jasmine flowers, bergamot, cardamom, Arabic coffee
    I mention these notes since they differ from the pyramid notes offered by PigeonMurderer. I’m not disputing those pyramid notes, in fact I am sure they are there (especially the civet). It is interesting to see the difference between the two lists.
    This has a nice aromatic green bergamot opening with jasmine floral notes. The scent is dusky but attractive. Then the “rubber” phase hits, grassy notes from the yerba mate. This is unusual but not unpleasant. Piercing whiffs of violet circle in the background. Then, a slightly sweet and skin- or leather-like note from the civet appears. This component adds a heady, old-school, perfumed character to the dry-down. The civet goes on and on, it is a longevity monster… and ultimately (IMO) gets a bit tiresome. This is not to my taste, though some may appreciate it.

    18 August, 2009

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    Premier Figuier Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    In comparison to the regular version, the extreme version seems more mature. It is a darker green, a bit sharper and less figgy-fruity, smoother and more subtle (at first) and ultimately more powerful (in the dry-down). The fresh sappy and leafy notes are not as prominent. The creamy almond and coconut milk notes emerge more slowly. The stone pine adds a marvelous coniferous note, a bit elusive but it appears once in a while. The long-term dry-down is an excellent woody-pine fig chord, which is very satisfying.

    17 August, 2009

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    Premier Figuier by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    This is a youthful, cheery, sappy-green sort of scent. It has a very green fig, leafy opening. This quickly is followed by some good wood and bark notes. The coconut adds a creamy, tropical aspect to the scent. This settles into a creamy woody scent, with continued hints of green fig and a developing lovely sandalwood note. It is only slightly sweet, so it is suitable as a unisex scent.

    17 August, 2009

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    Portugal by Geo F Trumper

    This is a good neroli scent, here freshened by more lemon than is usual. Thus, it is less gorgeous, less softly cloudy, than some nerolis. The bitter orange adds a woody – soapy note, even slightly metallic. This is a simple, dignified masculine scent. It doesn’t wow me but I appreciate it.

    14 August, 2009

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    Aubépine-Acacia by Creed

    This has a lovely green-citrus opening. Then the galbanum brings a dusky, slightly smoky note that is very appealing. Soon, a host of florals appear. These are not sweet nor heavy; they are aromatic. Hawthorne flowers reputedly have a spicy, almond-like scent; and I do get a chord like almonds and cloves. An elusive woody-pine note tantalizes me. This scent has an airy-soapy green quality. It is haunting and quite intriguing. A Basenote friend calls this her “chameleon of scents” and I understand what she means. The dry, dusky notes here make this an excellent unisex scent. Like Cyprès-Musc (also in the Private Collection) this is a subtle and complex scent.

    14 August, 2009

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    Buckingham by Crown Perfumery

    This is a pleasant scent, fairly old-school in style (soapy, balsamic, spicy). It opens with a very nice lemony-citrus blast and resinous notes. Pine and juniper provide a fresh, bright aspect; and cypress gives it a slightly dusky quality. There are some spices here, not very pronounced but certainly apparent. They give a masculine, barbershop feel to the scent. The oakmoss gets a bit soapy as it often does in old scents. The drydown is aromatic and balsamic, a bit substantial but not oppressive.

    05 August, 2009 (Last Edited: 13 March, 2013)

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    Sandringham by Crown Perfumery

    On me, this is a powerful, aromatic mossy-herbal scent. The citrus and floral escape me, or disappear instantly. The herbal notes are very interesting. I detect thyme in abundance, and also perhaps marjoram, mint and/or rosemary. There are supposed to be “sweet woody notes” but I find they are very minor, compared to the assertive and slightly sweet herbal notes. I appreciate herbal scents, and I enjoy this one. But for me, it is so assertive that I must apply lightly. I find it really gains in intensity in the drydown. It definitely has an old-school vibe.

    04 August, 2009

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    Lavender and Italian Lemon by Potter & Moore

    This has a good opening: the lemon is green and fresh, and the lavender is dry and slightly smoky. This is a simple summer spritz, not complicated or deep, and it is inexpensive. The drydown is quite good. It is not heavy, sweet or powdery and it has reasonable longevity. The accompanying bath oil is lovely (it has a lemon-cream and lavender scent) and the luxury body crème is amazingly rich.

    03 August, 2009

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    Monsieur Rochas by Rochas

    Note: I have the gold-coloured EDT in concentrée form. The opening is lemony with a strong bergamot note. The scent quickly moves to a carnation/clove and spice phase which is warm and aromatic. There is a bit of dry wood from the cedar. The short-term drydown is that of a dry and lean patchouli, with its characteristic hint of leather. Monsieur Rochas is not a green fern-y fougere in the style of Crown Fougere. It is a gold/brown spicy-leathery fougere. The ultimate drydown is a dusky and slightly salty old-school oakmoss. This is well-done 70’s scent: it is assertive and yet mellow, and quite masculine in style.

    03 August, 2009

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    Traditional Cologne by D.R. Harris & co.

    This is a basic refreshing splash citrus cologne. Its distinctive feature is that it has orange oil. This gives a lovely, orange-y note, like orange skins. This is not sweet. It is fresh and enjoyable. A light scent, it can be applied liberally and often.

    21st July, 2009 (Last Edited: 31st July, 2009)

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    Classic Cologne by D.R. Harris & co.

    This is a basic refreshing splash citrus cologne. Its distinctive features are lime notes and very light grassy notes, which give this a ‘green’ character. This is a light, subtle scent – so splash it on liberally and enjoy. It has a pleasant light musk drydown.

    21st July, 2009 (Last Edited: 31st July, 2009)

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    Gold Medal by Atkinsons

    Looking at these notes I had a good idea of what this would be like -- and I was right. This is a gorgeous, neroli-based scent. It is very simple, a classy version of an EDC. The longevity of such a citrus scent is predictably brief, so splash it on liberally and often. Orange blossom: special.

    17 July, 2009

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    Fresco by Victor

    This is lemony-green and minty, with an old-school barbershop aspect that might due to a bit of patchouli. It has a slightly powdery drydown which is cool, airy and smooth. Not as citrusy as V Victor. A nice green bottle, in splash format.

    16 July, 2009 (Last Edited: 31st July, 2009)

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    Olibanum by Profumum

    Orange blossom, frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood
    This has a magnificently resinous incense opening. It is dry, slightly smoky, and very satisfying. Myrrh contributes a pleasant depth, and sandalwood provides a woody spine – but this is a frankincense scent, and a great one. . Its notes are green, austere, contemplative, and slightly cool. My kind of scent. Highest endorsement.

    15 July, 2009

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    Victrix by Profumum

    Pink pepper, coriander (see below), laurel, vetiver, oakmoss (see below).
    This has a very green, grassy opening – a bit of surprise but I appreciate it. The pepper gives a slight tingly-warm aspect to the green notes. As an EDP this is substantial (even rich) but not heavy. The notes are seamless and cannot easily be distinguished. My impression is of a grassy field in the sun. The scent is so green in a low-key way that I suspect that coriander leaf (cilantro) as well as coriander seed plays a role. The leaf adds a minty, perky note; and the seed gives a faint sweet-nut whiff. Great dry-down – slightly grassy and even hay-like. Subtle, sits close to the skin. Note, the final element is oakmoss (muschio di quercia), not musk.

    14 July, 2009

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    V by Victor by Victor

    It opens with lots of lemon and bergamot, and only a hint of lavender. Verbena adds a powerful lemon-green note. The scent is quite citrusy, overall. It is a refreshing and substantial summer spritz. Some soapy wood notes emerge, and the scent settles into a clean mossy-green finish. Not complex, but nice and certainly inexpensive! I like the lovely squat green bottle.
    PS -- this is not discontinued. I just bought some (July 2009), in a Roman pharmacy. It is widely available in Italy.

    14 July, 2009

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    Passage d'Enfer by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    What an odd name for this sort of scent. “Gates of Hell” sounds like a ferocious brew, and yet this is a lovely delicate floral. Think of white flowers, with a hint of green and a soft musk drydown. An aura of springtime is here. Not dry, not sweet, situated mid-point in every way. Incense notes are very light. This is a bit like Mugler Cologne, though not as green and more subtle. Not especially distinctive, and I certainly don't get any pine here.

    09 June, 2009

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    Hermèssence Paprika Brasil by Hermès

    Pimento, clove and paprika
    Iris and green leaves
    Reseda, ember wood, woody notes.
    The opening has dusky green notes and is attractive. The spices are dry and peppery, and the clove is not overdone. The scent overall is subtle and translucent, as is typical of this line. The myrrh-like note from the reseda is heady and perfumed-green, giving a pleasant and soapy quality. The scent is quite enjoyable; dry not sweet. The peppery-myrrhy drydown is really enjoyable.

    08 June, 2009

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    Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Peony, lychee, chai tea with milk, vetiver, incense, cyprior grass, cedar, leather, iris.
    I am slightly disappointed in this scent. On me, it is essentially a light green, leather/iris scent. I was hoping for more interesting and exotic incense notes. The opening is very aromatic, green, tangy, and acidic. I’m not sure what that note is, it seems familiar to me but I can’t place it. Perhaps it is a green treatment of vetiver with the grassy notes. Where are the “wild smoky teas” and the “woods mixed with spices”? I didn’t notice them.

    08 June, 2009

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