Reviews by odysseusm

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    odysseusm
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    Showing 811 to 840 of 1265.
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    Tangerine Vert by Miller Harris

    This has a lovely citrus-herbal opening in the classic EDC style. I can’t pick out the individual citrus notes, they just register as ‘citrus’. I find this to be much different from Eau D’Orange Verte -- TV is more herbal-green. Marjoram is a mild herb: dusky and bit earthy. Those qualities are here, and they are continued in the mossy notes. Then, something interesting and somewhat perplexing happens for me. The scent develops an airy-fresh aspect: it is cool, spacious, ozonic. This might be the geranium interacting with the musk and moss. At times, the scent is pleasant and calming, at other times it is a bit synthetic (like powdered laundry detergent). I am not a fan of ozonic scents so I struggle through this phase. The moss is a longevity monster, it quietly maintains a presence for many hours. Because of the ozonic middle, I only give a neutral. For those who don’t mind this aspect, it will be a pleasant scent.

    21st August, 2009

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    Nouvelle Edition Figue Amere by Miller Harris

    Top: bergamot, mandarin
    Mid: “bitter ripe green figs,” salt, Narcissus poeticus, rose, green violet leaves
    Base: cedar, amber, sea moss
    This opens with a nice, earthy fig scent. Oddly, this scent projects more coconut than Premiere Figuer (regular or extreme) by L’Artisan Parfumer – yet there is no coconut listed here. In comparison to the L’Artisan products, this is much more floral, creamier, sweeter. It is not a lean green scent in any sense. Lots of sillage here folks. The drydown is sweet and ambery, and I don’t get any cedar. This is not a bad scent at all, but I don’t care for the style. Others may well appreciate it.

    21st August, 2009

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    Daim Blond by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I suspect there is an error in the BN pyramid. I don’t know what a Pallida is, but Iris Pallida is a type of pale Iris.
    This has a sweet, somewhat spicy opening which seems a bit like furniture polish. The nutty and spicy hawthorn notes mix with the fruity apricot notes. Yet surprisingly, amidst all these warm notes is a cool and airy, almost steely-metallic character. I find this highly unusual, it certainly was not what I expected. The scent is atypical for Lutens, being neither heavy nor opulent. It is too fruity to suit me. There is nothing unpleasant here – and yet I don’t like it (even setting the fruit aspect). It just seems like an odd, and not particularly attractive scent.

    18th August, 2009

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    Palais Jamais by Etro

    Fragrance notes mentioned on Etro card: yerba mate, sambac jasmine flowers, bergamot, cardamom, Arabic coffee
    I mention these notes since they differ from the pyramid notes offered by PigeonMurderer. I’m not disputing those pyramid notes, in fact I am sure they are there (especially the civet). It is interesting to see the difference between the two lists.
    This has a nice aromatic green bergamot opening with jasmine floral notes. The scent is dusky but attractive. Then the “rubber” phase hits, grassy notes from the yerba mate. This is unusual but not unpleasant. Piercing whiffs of violet circle in the background. Then, a slightly sweet and skin- or leather-like note from the civet appears. This component adds a heady, old-school, perfumed character to the dry-down. The civet goes on and on, it is a longevity monster… and ultimately (IMO) gets a bit tiresome. This is not to my taste, though some may appreciate it.

    18th August, 2009

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    Premier Figuier Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    In comparison to the regular version, the extreme version seems more mature. It is a darker green, a bit sharper and less figgy-fruity, smoother and more subtle (at first) and ultimately more powerful (in the dry-down). The fresh sappy and leafy notes are not as prominent. The creamy almond and coconut milk notes emerge more slowly. The stone pine adds a marvelous coniferous note, a bit elusive but it appears once in a while. The long-term dry-down is an excellent woody-pine fig chord, which is very satisfying.

    17th August, 2009

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    Premier Figuier by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    This is a youthful, cheery, sappy-green sort of scent. It has a very green fig, leafy opening. This quickly is followed by some good wood and bark notes. The coconut adds a creamy, tropical aspect to the scent. This settles into a creamy woody scent, with continued hints of green fig and a developing lovely sandalwood note. It is only slightly sweet, so it is suitable as a unisex scent.

    17th August, 2009

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    Portugal by Geo F Trumper

    This is a good neroli scent, here freshened by more lemon than is usual. Thus, it is less gorgeous, less softly cloudy, than some nerolis. The bitter orange adds a woody – soapy note, even slightly metallic. This is a simple, dignified masculine scent. It doesn’t wow me but I appreciate it.

    14th August, 2009

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    Aubépine-Acacia by Creed

    This has a lovely green-citrus opening. Then the galbanum brings a dusky, slightly smoky note that is very appealing. Soon, a host of florals appear. These are not sweet nor heavy; they are aromatic. Hawthorne flowers reputedly have a spicy, almond-like scent; and I do get a chord like almonds and cloves. An elusive woody-pine note tantalizes me. This scent has an airy-soapy green quality. It is haunting and quite intriguing. A Basenote friend calls this her “chameleon of scents” and I understand what she means. The dry, dusky notes here make this an excellent unisex scent. Like Cyprès-Musc (also in the Private Collection) this is a subtle and complex scent.

    14th August, 2009

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    Buckingham by Crown Perfumery

    This is a pleasant scent, fairly old-school in style (soapy, balsamic, spicy). It opens with a very nice lemony-citrus blast and resinous notes. Pine and juniper provide a fresh, bright aspect; and cypress gives it a slightly dusky quality. There are some spices here, not very pronounced but certainly apparent. They give a masculine, barbershop feel to the scent. The oakmoss gets a bit soapy as it often does in old scents. The drydown is aromatic and balsamic, a bit substantial but not oppressive.

    05th August, 2009 (Last Edited: 13th March, 2013)

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    Sandringham by Crown Perfumery

    On me, this is a powerful, aromatic mossy-herbal scent. The citrus and floral escape me, or disappear instantly. The herbal notes are very interesting. I detect thyme in abundance, and also perhaps marjoram, mint and/or rosemary. There are supposed to be “sweet woody notes” but I find they are very minor, compared to the assertive and slightly sweet herbal notes. I appreciate herbal scents, and I enjoy this one. But for me, it is so assertive that I must apply lightly. I find it really gains in intensity in the drydown. It definitely has an old-school vibe.

    04th August, 2009

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    Lavender and Italian Lemon by Potter & Moore

    This has a good opening: the lemon is green and fresh, and the lavender is dry and slightly smoky. This is a simple summer spritz, not complicated or deep, and it is inexpensive. The drydown is quite good. It is not heavy, sweet or powdery and it has reasonable longevity. The accompanying bath oil is lovely (it has a lemon-cream and lavender scent) and the luxury body crème is amazingly rich.

    03rd August, 2009

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    Monsieur Rochas by Rochas

    Note: I have the gold-coloured EDT in concentrée form. The opening is lemony with a strong bergamot note. The scent quickly moves to a carnation/clove and spice phase which is warm and aromatic. There is a bit of dry wood from the cedar. The short-term drydown is that of a dry and lean patchouli, with its characteristic hint of leather. Monsieur Rochas is not a green fern-y fougere in the style of Crown Fougere. It is a gold/brown spicy-leathery fougere. The ultimate drydown is a dusky and slightly salty old-school oakmoss. This is well-done 70’s scent: it is assertive and yet mellow, and quite masculine in style.

    03rd August, 2009

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    Traditional Cologne by D.R. Harris & co.

    This is a basic refreshing splash citrus cologne. Its distinctive feature is that it has orange oil. This gives a lovely, orange-y note, like orange skins. This is not sweet. It is fresh and enjoyable. A light scent, it can be applied liberally and often.

    21st July, 2009 (Last Edited: 31st July, 2009)

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    Classic Cologne by D.R. Harris & co.

    This is a basic refreshing splash citrus cologne. Its distinctive features are lime notes and very light grassy notes, which give this a ‘green’ character. This is a light, subtle scent – so splash it on liberally and enjoy. It has a pleasant light musk drydown.

    21st July, 2009 (Last Edited: 31st July, 2009)

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    Gold Medal by Atkinsons

    Looking at these notes I had a good idea of what this would be like -- and I was right. This is a gorgeous, neroli-based scent. It is very simple, a classy version of an EDC. The longevity of such a citrus scent is predictably brief, so splash it on liberally and often. Orange blossom: special.

    17th July, 2009

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    Fresco by Victor

    This is lemony-green and minty, with an old-school barbershop aspect that might due to a bit of patchouli. It has a slightly powdery drydown which is cool, airy and smooth. Not as citrusy as V Victor. A nice green bottle, in splash format.

    16th July, 2009 (Last Edited: 31st July, 2009)

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    Olibanum by Profumum

    Orange blossom, frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood
    This has a magnificently resinous incense opening. It is dry, slightly smoky, and very satisfying. Myrrh contributes a pleasant depth, and sandalwood provides a woody spine – but this is a frankincense scent, and a great one. . Its notes are green, austere, contemplative, and slightly cool. My kind of scent. Highest endorsement.

    15th July, 2009

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    Victrix by Profumum

    Pink pepper, coriander (see below), laurel, vetiver, oakmoss (see below).
    This has a very green, grassy opening – a bit of surprise but I appreciate it. The pepper gives a slight tingly-warm aspect to the green notes. As an EDP this is substantial (even rich) but not heavy. The notes are seamless and cannot easily be distinguished. My impression is of a grassy field in the sun. The scent is so green in a low-key way that I suspect that coriander leaf (cilantro) as well as coriander seed plays a role. The leaf adds a minty, perky note; and the seed gives a faint sweet-nut whiff. Great dry-down – slightly grassy and even hay-like. Subtle, sits close to the skin. Note, the final element is oakmoss (muschio di quercia), not musk.

    14th July, 2009

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    V by Victor by Victor

    It opens with lots of lemon and bergamot, and only a hint of lavender. Verbena adds a powerful lemon-green note. The scent is quite citrusy, overall. It is a refreshing and substantial summer spritz. Some soapy wood notes emerge, and the scent settles into a clean mossy-green finish. Not complex, but nice and certainly inexpensive! I like the lovely squat green bottle.
    PS -- this is not discontinued. I just bought some (July 2009), in a Roman pharmacy. It is widely available in Italy.

    14th July, 2009

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    Passage d'Enfer by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    What an odd name for this sort of scent. “Gates of Hell” sounds like a ferocious brew, and yet this is a lovely delicate floral. Think of white flowers, with a hint of green and a soft musk drydown. An aura of springtime is here. Not dry, not sweet, situated mid-point in every way. Incense notes are very light. This is a bit like Mugler Cologne, though not as green and more subtle. Not especially distinctive, and I certainly don't get any pine here.

    09th June, 2009

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    Hermèssence Paprika Brasil by Hermès

    Pimento, clove and paprika
    Iris and green leaves
    Reseda, ember wood, woody notes.
    The opening has dusky green notes and is attractive. The spices are dry and peppery, and the clove is not overdone. The scent overall is subtle and translucent, as is typical of this line. The myrrh-like note from the reseda is heady and perfumed-green, giving a pleasant and soapy quality. The scent is quite enjoyable; dry not sweet. The peppery-myrrhy drydown is really enjoyable.

    08th June, 2009

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    Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Peony, lychee, chai tea with milk, vetiver, incense, cyprior grass, cedar, leather, iris.
    I am slightly disappointed in this scent. On me, it is essentially a light green, leather/iris scent. I was hoping for more interesting and exotic incense notes. The opening is very aromatic, green, tangy, and acidic. I’m not sure what that note is, it seems familiar to me but I can’t place it. Perhaps it is a green treatment of vetiver with the grassy notes. Where are the “wild smoky teas” and the “woods mixed with spices”? I didn’t notice them.

    08th June, 2009

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    Greyland by Montale

    Wood notes: cedar, sandalwood, vetyver, kayak
    Spice notes: ginger, black pepper
    Base: Arabian leather, musk, Tibetan rock rose
    These notes are from the Montale site. I note that oud is not mentioned, and I believe it – I don’t detect any here. This is a woody scent through and through. The opening is a bit sweet, but not challenging. Lovely cedar notes emerge – they are woody and not suggestive of pencil-shavings. Pepper spices accompany the wood. And that chord maintains itself for several hours. So, while I appreciate the woody notes, I don’t think this especially distinctive in the world of cedar scents. Nothing wrong with it at all; it just doesn’t bring something new to the table.

    03rd June, 2009

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    Eau de Camille by Annick Goutal

    This is a charming floral with a young air of innocence and yet depth. The opening is soft, green and pretty – suggesting spring flowers, honeysuckle and lily of the valley. The scent develops a soapy character that is pronounced but not challenging. The drydown has some earthy, heady aspects. This is a bit too floral and sweet for me, but it is very good scent.

    03rd June, 2009

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    Derby by Guerlain

    I was very interested to try this – I know it has many fans. I find that there is much to appreciate here. Ultimately the leather/patchouli combo isn’t quite my cup of tea.
    I find that this has three distinct phases. Also worth mentioning is that the fragrance note elements are quite clear and distinguishable from each other. The first phase is the opening, which is bracingly spicy and green. It is big, aromatic, and pleasing. In particular the artemesia has a vibrant and powerful presence. The second phase is that of peppery spice, with some florals given a dark and earthy tone. This too is well done. The last phase is true to the scent’s 1980’s origin: a big ol’ tangy-brown chord of leather and patchouli. The patchouli really hangs in there, and takes on a kind of salty, minty character.
    So, this is classed as a leathery chypre, but I think that a case can be made that it is a leathery oriental (given the spices and patchouli). Well crafted, and worth checking out if you like this sort of thing.

    02nd June, 2009

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    Vetiver Bourbon by Miller Harris

    This is a straightforward scent, essentially a soliflore expressing vetiver in an earthy way. The opening has notes of bark and dark soil. Then, a distinctive note of iodine appears. That is sometimes found in vetiver; here is not unpleasant. It gives a crisp, acidic note. This combines with the developing patchouli for an interesting effect – briny, almost marine! This was unexpected, and intriguing. A bit of toasty brown from oakmoss makes an appearance. This is a nice scent, and it will appeal to vetiver fans. Is it distinctive enough to justify the premium price, when there are many other competent vetiver scents out there? I’m not sure. But it is a very pleasing and satisfying scent.

    21st May, 2009

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    Citron Citron by Miller Harris

    This opens with excellent, lovely citrus notes. These are very fresh and true, and have a tart green tone. The scent then moves into its herbal phase. This is well blended, being a green chord rather than distinct elements. The drydown is gentle and subtle, with very mild spices and hints of wood. This is a classy EDC – nothing particularly new or innovative here; but everything is well done.

    19th May, 2009

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    Concorde by Metropolitan Collection

    This is a simple, fairly sweet floral scent. It starts with a green note, and then develops an earthy iris note on a musky base. That's about it.

    16th May, 2009

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    Tabacco Toscano by Santa Maria Novella

    The full name of this is Tobacco di Toscana. It certainly smells of rich tobacco, a darker sort of tobacco than the blond leaf found in Acqua di Cuba. It is sweet and aromatic, and yet also powdery-dry and airy. I think it has a healthy dollop of coumarin (which often is used to scent pipe tobacco) and also tonka bean, since there is a strong vanilla note. Another rich and powerful scent from SMN, not my sort but quite interesting.

    16th May, 2009

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    Melograno by Santa Maria Novella

    I agree with those who don't find any pomegranate/grenadine fruit here, also with those who find this to be a soapy scent. The image I get in my mind is a clear, powerfully-scented pink soap. It is a pleasant, clean smell and also quite rich. Not my sort of scent, but interesting.

    16th May, 2009

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