Reviews by odysseusm

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    odysseusm
    Canada Canada

    Showing 931 to 960 of 1242.
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    Santal Blanc by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    This has a really, really woody opening! It got my attention. The various woods combine to suggest cedar, a real pencil-shavings tone. In the opening, it is a cool-spicy wood scent, and I like it. I don’t mind the fenugreek. I think we see a good, naturalistic rendition of this seed/spice. Yes, it is bitter, medicinal, woody… and it adds an interesting aspect to the scent. It is not out of balance with the other elements. I don’t find this to be sweet or foody-gourmand. I also don’t find anything curry-ish here. My overall impression is one of wood. Eventually the cedar tone is replaced by the promised sandalwood, here done in a mild style. Several hours later, I’m still smelling it. Now it has a somewhat sweet, powdery-balsamic aspect. Here I lose interest, and will not move from sample to purchase.

    15 September, 2008

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    Porsche Design Essence by Porsche

    I agree with wise Hirch. This one is a major disappointment for me. Why? Because of its unrealized potential. What promising ingredients! A really excellent line-up on paper. It should have an aromatic, zesty green opening, a spicy and perky-green middle, a resinous base, and lovely whiffs of pine throughout. Instead, all we have is another cool-fresh scent in the current middle-of the road style. BORING! The only element I can really distinguish is the patchouli… oh joy. It is slightly sweet and tangy. The whole thing is blah and more than a little vacuous, like many current releases.

    13 September, 2008

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    Vétiver by Piver

    Fragrance notes: apple, citrus, lavender, nutmeg, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli.
    This is in two phases. The first is a lovely green-citrus one, with a hint of woody spice. This is well done with a sporty, green character. It reminds me of Greenergy or Trophée Lancome. The scond phase is the dry-down, which is woody. First vetiver and then sandalwood appear. Each is done in an attractive and classy style Longevity is medium, fading after 4-5 hours. This is a relatively inexpensive scent, and I like it.

    12 September, 2008

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    Gypsy Water by Byredo

    Interesting to see the varied reactions (and emergent fragrance profiles).
    This was a disappointment to me. The top and mid-note elements had promise: juniper, pepper, pine, incense. I applied it, and POOF – immediate amber/vanilla. And that was pretty much it. The basenotes were there from the get-go. If I used all my powers of discernment, I can imagine very faint pepper and pine, but you really have to go searching. I’m not a fan of amber and vanilla, they are Ok as a slight feature at the end but they are not what I seek in a fragrance. So, I can’t endorse this one. It fails to live up to its potential.

    11th September, 2008

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    Acqua di Genova Colonia by Acqua di Genova

    This is a true classic, a lovely scent in the typical cologne style. It has a soft character, the citrus is gentle yet prominent. The citrus notes combine graciously with the rose. The rose is beautiful, not heavy or too sweet. I think this is very similar to R&G Extra Vielle. Light wood notes at the end. No surprises here, but quite enjoyable.

    11th September, 2008

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    Green by Byredo

    This has a pleasant, citrus-green opening. I think the middle is truly lovely. I’m not usually a floral fan, but this is beautiful. I get all the scents: jasmine, violet (flower and leaf), honeysuckle, and rose. They are fresh, translucent, and natural (not synthetic). They are light, and although not heavy or terribly sweet they do make a statement. Their effect in combination reminds me of lilac. The dry-down moves to a violet leaf centre. Bright, a bit piercing. I always find violet leaf to be an acquired taste; but I have to say this is pretty good. It is a kinder, gentler Grey Flannel. The sweet almond, musk and especially the vanilla are thankfully restrained in treatment. This is OK, quite nice in fact. But I agree that it is not a very ‘green’ scent.

    10th September, 2008

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    Paestum Rose by Eau d'Italie

    I am very impressed with the Eau D’Italie line. I find them to be complex and refreshingly DIFFERENT from the usual new fragrances. They really have character, verve, and charm. Such is certainly the case for Paestum Rose. It has a rich opening that I would characterize as oriental: it is dark, mysterious and compelling. The myrrh lends a sensuous, languid note. I am convinced that the “exotic woods” are at least partly from oud – hence a further dreamy (or narcotic, as one has said) aspect. On my skin, the rose is a minor note: I find the myrrh, oud and other woods and spices to be dominant. The patchouli is evident but presented with restraint. It augments the other elements but does itself not hog the stage. Great dry-down. To my mind this is a masculine scent but I can see that it would be terrific on some women. It’s a sexy scent.

    05 September, 2008

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    Hunter by Atkinsons

    Let’s have a moment of silence for our dearly departed friend… my mini bottle of Hunter. In its youth it had such promise: citrus, aromatic-herbal-pine notes… Now all we have is a tired old hippie vest, sweetly and strongly smelling of patchouli and leather. Let us think kindly of it, my friends. Let us hope it once communed with nature. Now it is a wizened war-horse, a tawny and very perfume-y relic of greener days. Its green vitality has evaporated.

    04 September, 2008

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    Versace pour Homme by Versace

    Spirited discussion here. I think that if a fragrance lists interesting ingredients, then it should deliver interesting and well-done notes. In my opinion, VpH does not deliver the goods. I agree that the citrus notes are very good: they should be, given their number and variety. However, I find the middle to be boring. I don’t get any clary sage (a particular favorite of mine), nor cedar wood. All I get is a light, cool, marine vibe. Yes, it is a salty breeze but I do question the value of yet another entry in this over-populated category. The oud (normally a really quirky element) is so domesticated as to be invisible. The amber is dry, thankfully. In sum, this seems to me like another airy, slightly synthetic blast of cool air. It just doesn’t appeal to me in any way. Marks deducted for lack of originality.

    03 September, 2008

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    F pour Homme by Salvatore Ferragamo

    I’ll gently disagree with the reviews so far. Admittedly I’m not sympathetic to this sort of breezy-fresh-cool scent. What can I say in its favor? It has a fruity-crisp opening that is aromatic, slightly sweet. The middle has the vaguest hint of pepper. The base is very light: a bit salty-leathery but really this is just a ghost of an impression. So this is a very light scent. I’m not advocating for a return to the tired old 80’s blockbusters; I just wish for a bit more character, distinctiveness, personality in a scent. To me this is clogging the market place with another generic version of the bland mid-point. Hmmm, guess that wasn’t as gentle as I’d promised. Oh well…

    03 September, 2008

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    Absolument Absinthe Le Parfum D'Interdits by Liquoristerie de Provence

    Absolument Absinthe. This is a pleasant scent, but I have to deduct marks for a disconnect between image and reality. Absinthe conjures images of dissolute dandies at the Follies-Bergere sipping a disreputable and eventually forbidden (interdit) glowing green nectar. The aromas of artemsia (wormwood) are dark, bitter, herbal and distinctive. Add some cannabis into the mix and you should have something quite illicit. Instead, your muguet-loving granny would happily wear this! There is a green, opening that is a tiny bit resinous but is mostly floral. The lily of the valley and jasmine notes are beautiful. There is a charming mood of tristesse (melancholy sadness) in the beauty. At times I’m remined of Guerlain’s Sous le Vent. The jasmine and tea might seem to some to combine in a jasmine tea chord. The dry-down is that of light musk… I don’t get any sandalwood. In sum, a pretty scent, on the feminine side of unisex. For a bolder scent of absinthe, try the amazing Fou D’Absinthe… one of my favorites.

    03 September, 2008

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    Santos Concentrée by Cartier

    I tried both the regular and concentrée versions of Santos. Counter-intuitively, I find that I don’t like the regular but can appreciate the concentrée. That is because of the role of patchouli and how it is treated in each version. Here, the patchouli does not dominate. It is handled with restraint. Now, what we have certainly is an old-school powerhouse chypre: it is big, smoky, leathery, full of dark notes and rich spices. It is in the Jules or VC&A mode. It is what it is, no apologies. Today we might apply this in micro-doses, out of consideration for the changing scentsibilities of our time. We want to be suave but not not obnoxious! Too much conjures an image of gold chains and a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. This is a well-done scent. It is not my go-to style, but it is worth checking out.

    03 September, 2008

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    Santos by Cartier

    I tried both the regular and concentrée versions of Santos. Counter-intuitively, I find that I don’t like the regular but can appreciate the concentrée. That is because of the role of patchouli and how it is treated in each version. In the regular version, patchouli dominates. Perhaps in concert with the juniper, I get a most vile scent! To me, it seems quite obnoxious. Pungent, sweet, metallic in an “airy” style, medicinal, harsh, perfumed, pongy, irritating. Tangy cheese? Something going dodgy on an aluminum plate in the hot sun? Stinky sneakers in an old gym locker? You get the picture. This one doesn’t work on my skin, folks. End of story.

    03 September, 2008

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    Cereus pour Homme No. 11 by Cereus

    Cereus 11 notes: iced anise, gimlet, juniper berry, black pepper, platinum musk, gentle woods.
    This has a cool herbal-green opening: dry, minty, somewhat interesting. It is quite lemony at this point. I don’t get ANY pepper. Airy but not unpleasantly synthetic. I don’t get any anise/licorice, nor any aromatic piney gin-like notes from the juniper. Basically, for me this is a breezy lemon scent… barely there, irrespective of the amount applied. Nothing objectionable, except its lack of distinctiveness and its niche price.

    02 September, 2008

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    Cereus pour Homme No. 7 by Cereus

    Cereus 7 notes
    Top: bergamot, cedar, mandarin
    Mid: “warm spices of violet and jasmine”
    Base: skin musk, worn leather, tonka bean, Australian coachwood
    The opening is fresh, with a good citrus note. Unusual to see cedar in the top note – here it is understandably light. I think the distinctive element noticed by some is due to violet leaves, which have a brisk, at times almost piercingly translucent aspect. Unclear to me whether there are actually spices in the mix or whether the spice is just the floral accord. The base is IMO a bit irritating. To my nose, the “skin musk” and “worn leather” notes are synthetic and they give me a headache.

    02 September, 2008

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    Cereus pour Homme No. 4 by Cereus

    Cereus 4 notes: citrus, green apple, papyrus
    The opening is crisp, with lemon and Granny Smith apple notes. Then I find a very light papery-brown note that is “papyrus.” The scent is quite simple, with little depth. It is not irritating but it certainly is not compelling. And certainly not worth the niche price! IMO a more successful scent of this type is Hermes Jardin sur le Nil.

    02 September, 2008

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    Cereus pour Homme No. 5 by Cereus

    Cereus 5 has a nice opening, with hints of green leaves, spice, and woody bark. I think it would be more interesting if greater emphasis were placed on the cardamom and licorice elements. The mid phase has an intriguing dusty quality that is difficult to describe. The spider orchid smells a bit like some day lilies, with an earthy-floral note. As well, there is a distinctive baked-goods/toasted note; at times reminiscent of apple pie. The woods are light and pleasant. This settles into a nice light lemony-vetiver scent that is clean, fresh, and a bit like a cookie. Not bad, wears well, safe, conservative. Well done but I don’t find it to be compelling… which it should be for the price.

    02 September, 2008

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    Incanto pour Homme by Salvatore Ferragamo

    Top: Sicilian bigarade, artemesia, bamboo leaves
    Mid: Tuscan cypress, atlas cedar, bourbon geranium
    Base: Indian vetiver, white musk, Indonesian sandalwood (from SF website)
    Incanto pour Homme is a competent scent, not wildly exciting. It is a fresh, light wood: airy and simple in style. It is not spicy, sweet, or heavy. Thankfully it achieves its fresh aspect in a natural-smelling manner, without the irritating synthetic aspect one often finds in such scents. The opening has some good orange and dusky-green notes (the latter from the artemesia). The cypress could be more exciting and distinctive. The vetiver and sandalwood are quite mild. This won’t turn heads, but it is pleasant.

    28 August, 2008

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    Paco Rabanne Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

    In the 1980’s Paco Rabanne, Eau Sauvage, and Jules were the scents in my youthful repertoire. Here we are almost thirty years later, and how do things stand up? Well Eau Sauvage is a timeless classic, and I wear it with enjoyment. But curiosity got the best of me, and I decided it was time to ride the old war-horse Paco. And you know what? It is not as bad as I feared. Micro-doses of this suit today’s scentsibility. Given that, I find much to appreciate. The opening is bracing, crisp and aromatic. It has minty, pine and green notes. Then woods and spices (clove-cinnamon) emerge. The result is a soapy, barbershop vibe. The base notes are rich but not oppressive or deadly sweet… again this will be true if this has been applied in tiny spritzes. The tobacco is restrained and effective, with a brown tangy twang. In my young days I wouldn’t have recognized myrrh but I do now – it is complex, perfumed; and it gives a slightly moody and contemplative air. The dry-down is mossy and soapy; charming and close to the skin. In conclusion, this is certainly worth a try. For me it is no longer a go-to scent. But it is a pleasant blast from my past.

    21st August, 2008

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    Royall Bay Rhum by Royall Lyme of Bermuda

    Gentlemen, I have called this meeting to discuss the overlooked element in Royall Bay Rhum. That, dear colleagues, is C-L-O-V-E-S! I am not talking about a little bit of a spicy note. I am talking about a great big guy banging a huge brass gong labeled ‘cloves’ until my head hurts. I am more than a little surprised that no one has mentioned this 800-pound gorilla. One reviewer’s phrase “medicinal harshness” hints at it. Think of the infamous scene in the movie “Marathon Man” where the Laurence Oliver character (a dentist) is torturing the Dustin Hoffman character. He alternately probes an exposed tooth nerve and then applies oil of cloves, which soothes the pain. Well, here the cloves IS the pain and the torture, and it is a medicinal harshness indeed. I don’t get green bay-leaf notes, nor menthol/mint ones, nor coniferous or pine notes. Any of those would be nice. Oh, did I mention that I do get clove notes? Now, a little clove can add a charming barbershop aura to a scent, and I like some fragrances with that hint. But this is relentless, over-the-top, and a scrubber. Peace be unto those who like it, I am not among that select crew. If, as one reviewer suggests, there are worse ones than this… I shudder to contemplate such a thing.

    20th August, 2008

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    Jack Black Signature Blue Mark by Jack Black

    Fragrance notes: juniper, ginger, herbaceous thyme and vetiver
    This is a crisp, invigorating scent, in the breezy summer splash mode. Minty juniper and a very light green/woody notes are its essence. Thankfully, there are no artificial-smelling ‘fresh’ notes here – all seems natural and is satisfying. I don’t really get any ginger (mind you, I have yet to find a ginger scent that actually smells anything at all like fresh ginger). This is not a complex scent, but who cares? The price is moderate, and it is well done. If you need a nice summer splash, check it out.

    18 August, 2008

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    Jack Black Signature Black Mark by Jack Black

    Fragrance notes: Kashmir saffron, coriander, cedar, leather
    I like woody scents and this is indeed woody. The aromatic cedarwood is complimented by the spice notes. I’m a bit surprised at how woody this is – no complaints, but this definitely registers on the Richter scale of wood-dominated scents. Cedar can sometimes ‘go south’ and get obnoxious… it stays civilized here. The spices give it a bit of an old-school barbershop vibe. There is a faint hint of leather. I’m hyper-sensitive to vanilla, and I don’t get ANY of that here. I don’t find the saffron problematic, indeed on me it is just part of the spice mix. (For those interested in more prominent saffron scents, I recommend Safranier and Palisander. Zafferano… each person needs to try it.) Back to JBB, it is a cool-weather scent – not heavy or sweet, but I find it to be substantial.

    18 August, 2008

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    cK be by Calvin Klein

    This has a lovely opening, which reminds me a bit of Mugler Cologne. It’s the fresh notes and the white musk. The drydown is a bit like Worth pour Homme. That’s the sandalwood and light spices. Mildly rich, comforting and comfortable. A quiet performer, quite pleasing.

    18 August, 2008

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    Jack Black Signature Silver Mark by Jack Black

    This is a powerful scent – I wouldn’t want it to be any more assertive! It presents itself as very clean and airy, and yet also bold. Definitely masculine, since it is aromatic and dry. The opening salvo has pungent lavender, peppery spices and some green herbal notes. These move into a light wood chord. If cypress is done well, it has a pleasingly haunting quality; and that is true here. My reservation is with the patchouli. It is not sweet or heavy (thankfully), but it is pungent and creates a kind of ‘fresh’ edgy quality that sometimes is a bit tiresome to my nose. I’ll give this thumbs up, but I’m not crazy about it. Actually, now that I think about it, the spices and patchouli remind me of Rive Gauche for Men. This is very much like that, I think. They both have bollocks.

    15 August, 2008

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    Un Parfum d'Aventure by Piver

    I agree with Renato: Parfum d'Adventure is a great scent, and clearly a masculine one. This is a soft cushion of gentle spice and musk -- very satisfying! Geo. F. Trumper specializes in this sort of thing but in this, Piver gives a worthy contender. This is powerful, assertive; but it has a certain suave barbershop charm. The spices are very well done, and there are hints of good wood. Now entering the comfort zone....

    14 August, 2008

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    Just Breathe by CB I Hate Perfume

    Alleged fragrance elements: bamboo leaves, Japanese green tea, 3 types of cedarwood, incense.
    Well I have to say I’m extremely disappointed in Just Breathe. The elements sound great! But where are they? Missing in action. This starts with a sour-sweet green note that bears no resemblance to any leaf I know. The scent gets sweet, fruity and odd; like a car freshener in peach or melon scent. This has the usual CB style: slightly sweet, synthetic and freshly tangy. Something like powdered laundry detergent. No cedarwood, no incense. Don’t like. Just avoid.

    13 August, 2008

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    M1 Narcissus by CB I Hate Perfume

    Fragrance elements: narcissus, clean running water over mossy stones, wind blowing through green leaves…
    M#1 Narcissus is a nice scent, the first CB I’ve tried that I like. It has attractive green-leaf notes that remind me of Bond No. 9 Gramercy Park, but are not as subtle. There are some lovely flowers. I don’t know what narcissus smells like but there is a combination of lily of the valley, iris, and sweet pea. This is interesting, not sweet, somewhat haunting in style. Because it is so floral it is not quite my style, but I can appreciate it.

    13 August, 2008

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    Black Diamond by Canali

    Revised my previous review, upgraded to neutral.
    Like all the Canali scents I've tried, this is very smooth and has a complex list of ingredients.
    Props to the mid notes: an excellent array of beautiful floral notes. Commendation to the jasmine which is gorgeous and the violet which ads a pleasant yet restrained silvery-bright note.
    Dry-down (predictably) gets sweet and musky.
    The fruit notes are not prominent, I don't really notice them.
    Not my style, but it is OK.

    12 August, 2008 (Last Edited: 07 January, 2011)

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    Zafferano by Odori

    Italian saffron, raspberry flowers, wild rose petals, Moroccan jasmine, lily of the valley, rosewood, golden oriental amber… (and oud?)
    Zafferano was quite a surprise. I was expecting a dusky-woody scent, from the combination of saffron and woods. What I got was an oud-like blast of considerable proportions! Oud is not listed as an element, and some have speculated that the saffron has been done in an “iodized” style. Perhaps. Or perhaps oud is a mystery element. Whatever the explanation – be ready for the quirky, tangy-pungent, bug-spray qualities of oud. The opening is spicy and earthy, with a bit of sweet hay (from the saffron). But quickly there are perky, rubbery notes hovering in the background. These almost seem like a green fern-moss note. As far as florals go, jasmine seems to dominate, rather than rose. The cedar is done in a bright, medicinal style (rather than woody). This is a very bright, almost astringent scent. At times it reminds me of Arlington by Harris. A lean sort of oriental scent – if that classification is appropriate. The amber is very light, like a tangy yet restrained patchouli. The drydown is acidic and unusual. Bottom line: this is such a different sort of scent that each person should try it and see how it works on his/her own skin. On me, something like oud was the major element.

    11th August, 2008

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    Sutra Ylang by Bois 1920

    Top: lemon, bergamot, cardamom, laurel
    Mid: rose, jasmine, violet, lily of the valley, carnation
    Base: sandalwood, cedarwood, moss, benzoin.
    Sutra Ylang is a distinctive scent! I find that violet dominates (leaves + blossoms). This combination is brisk and piercing, yet also flowery and powdery. In my opinion violet is an acquired taste. I find that I now can appreciate it; formerly I didn’t understand it nor like it. Sutra Ylang has a good opening. There is citrus, spice, and a fine green note from the laurel. I appreciate the latter. Lovely florals (rose, jasmine, lily of the valley) are set against the restrained yet powerful violet. The effect is haunting and memorable. In the dry-down; the citrus persists (unusual!), the wood gets tangy, and eventually the violet and benzoin combine in a powdery-sweet sustained note. I lose interest in the later stages of the dry-down, but up ‘til then I enjoyed this.

    11th August, 2008

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