Reviews by odysseusm

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    odysseusm
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    Private Collection - Bois Blond by Parfumerie Generale

    Bois Blond is a scent in Parfumerie General’s Private Collection. It is a beautiful, slightly haunting scent. It starts with a very good cedar note mixed with some sweet grassy notes. There is also a sweet blond tobacco leaf note which is tangy. BB has an elusive, shifting quality that is intriguing: it is sweet and yet tangy, rich and yet dry. At times the amber notes deliver the usual vanilla-coconut tone (which is a little too rich for me), but then marvelous cedar reappears and I love it. At the end of the day there are drier cedar scents which I prefer; but I appreciate the quality, charm and artistry here.

    05 April, 2008

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    Private Collection - Querelle by Parfumerie Generale

    Querelle is a scent in Parfumerie General’s Private Collection. I’ve revised my review, and given it a slight downgrade. It is pretty good, but I’m not as keen on it as I was at first. Qurelle has two phases. The first is dark and spicy. It is deep, complex, quite tangy and intriguing. The dark spices and incense are a bit sweet but not problematic. Ambergris gives a balsam-vanilla note. All these rich ingredients are balanced by the tangy note from vetiver. In phase two much of the complexity burns off and what is left is a vetiver-centered scent that gets even tangier and more than a little soapy. This is in the Guerlain mode but better. I don’t like vetiver done that way, I find it too heavy and soapy. But if you like vetiver, then by all means give this a try and see what you think.

    05 April, 2008 (Last Edited: 24 May, 2008)

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    Fougère Bengale by Parfum d'Empire

    Fougere Bengale by Parfum d’Empire is a big, dramatic scent in the style of Eau des Iles. It has a very aromatic opening that is intriguing, deep and likeable. There is lavender and a bit of roasted coffee. Despite notes I’ve read here and elsewhere this is not a really foody/gourmand scent, in my opinion. Then leathery, animalic notes (probably from an unnamed synthetic) contribute a slightly wild, savage note which has good staying power. There are interesting, complex spices here. They are done with a subtle hand and are not curry-ish at all. Finally, a honeyed hay-tobacco note emerges, and this too persists. A hay note is to be expected in a fougere, but this is sweeter and more substantial than usual. This is a sensual scent, suave and yet a bit dangerous. It is not quite my style (a little richer than I really like) but I have to admit it is attractive and enjoyable.

    05 April, 2008

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    Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Luten’s Chypre Rouge certain polarizes opinion! Well, this isn’t the strangest fragrance I’ve smelled, and I certainly don’t get the ‘red jello effect’! It has a very sweet, honeyed opening that is perfumey and rich. It changes a bit, and some herbal notes and pine needles peek out. This is a complex scent, and hard to get a handle on. It gets a bit woodier, but remains sweet and fragrant. I don’t find this to be an obnoxious scent at all. Indeed, there is much to appreciate: the herbal notes interact well with the various mosses. It is just too sweet for me, that’s all. And the vanilla notes in the dry-down are the usual deal-breaker.

    05 April, 2008

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    Ayalitta by Ayala Moriel

    Notes: clary sage, galbanum, labdanum, neroli, oakmoss, patchouli, rose otto, sage
    Ayalitta is another charming scent from the Ayala Moriel line. I think that Ayala really has a knack for designing brilliant, distinctive and very classy green scents (others being Rainforest and Bois D’Hiver). Ayalitta is one of the loveliest chypres I know, it is just delightful! The galbanum and labdanum are vibrant without being overwhelming. The dusky clary sage adds a further green note. All these green notes are very enjoyable and true. They are softened wonderfully by the florals, yet the scent remains dry enough for this man to wear with great pleasure. It is a mellow and appealing scent. The drydown is a mossy treat. Ok thumbs... start pointing upward!

    05 April, 2008

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    Fresco di Vetiver by I Profumi di Firenze

    Fragrance notes: sicilian lemon, spice, vetiver from Java
    There is lovely lemon and spice here, combining in a warm accord. The vetiver is a bit sharp but is attractive, refreshing, woody. There is also a green-leaf aromatic note. So far this is a refreshing summery scent, substantial but not heavy. Gradually the lemon burns off and the vetiver becomes more focused. The scent settles into a good vetiver, not heavy and soapy. Linear and straightforward, but pleasing.

    05 April, 2008 (Last Edited: 08 April, 2008)

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    Oliban by Keiko Mecheri

    Oliban has three phases. The first is amazingly good, the second is OK, and I don’t care for the third. We start with a frankincense/cedar opening. It is deep, dark, woody, and very impressive. Excellent! This changes into a tangy tobacco/rose chord. Smells like a tin of pipe tobacco... charming in its own way. The third phase is a powdery, vanilla amber note which grows with the passage of time. Here’s the thumb goes sideways. I just don’t like that aspect. That’s why I prefer a leaner, more austere incense scent like Bois D’Encens or Bois D’Orage or some of the Comme des Garçons line. I’d characterize Oliban as being in the style of old-school late ‘70s male powerhouse scents: dark, rich, assertive.

    05 April, 2008

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    Chêne by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I see why there are so many favorable reviews for Chene. It truly is a wood-lover’s dream come true. The birch and cedar are dry and aromatic, very accurate and completely satisfying. This is an exceptionally well-designed scent. The rich elements (tonka, rum, beeswax) support and enhance the wood, rather than compete with it. I’m usually wary of vanilla, but those notes from the tonka bean are just right here. The dry-down develops lovely herbaceous notes and is very complex and subtle, with a distinctive beauty. The thyme is very mellow, not at all like salad dressing. (I’m thinking of the thyme in Baïme, which in my opinion detracts from the other elements.) This has great staying power. If you like wood, seek this one out... you won’t be disappointed. The wood, earth and herbs evoke a mood of contemplative contentment.

    05 April, 2008

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    Concentré D'Orange Verte by Hermès

    Concentrée d’Orange Verte has a heavier, darker opening than Eau d’Orange Verte. It is mellow, and not as green/leafy. It has an elusive, restrained, even enigmatic quality in comparison to its more up-front sibling. It sits closer to the skin. It is woodier, and the soft florals make it a bit more classy and refined. Based on reviews below I was not prepared to like it... but I find that I do! I like green scents so I really enjoy the basic Eau d’Orange. But the concentrated version is a successful scent in its own right. At times it reminds me of Roger & Gallet’s Extra Vielle.

    05 April, 2008

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    1828 by Histoires de Parfums

    Fragrance notes
    Top: grapefruit, Italian lemon, mandarin orange, Brazilian lime, mint, eucalyptus
    Mid: clove, nutmeg, black pepper
    Base: Atlas cedar, patchouli, Siberian pine, vetiver, incense, amber, white musk
    I wanted to try 1828 when I read the ingredient list, which I think sounds marvelous! Having tried it, I’d say that this is a good but not great scent. I feel it doesn’t live up to its woody/pine potential. The opening is very good: it is green, aromatic, refreshing. The citrus blends well with the mint and eucalyptus, and the latter is refined and not like Vicks. The middle is an adequate expression of peppery spice. There is very little pine or wood, which I find disappointing given that the ingredients are ‘named’ (e.g., Atlas cedar, Siberian pine). Instead of interesting woods the base quickly becomes a patchouli-amber blend that at times reminds me of coconut. The wood could be woodier, the vetiver and incense could have much more character. The base gets more ambery for a while and then finally and pleasantly settles down. Don’t over-apply 1828 based on its light top notes, you’ll regret it! This is an OK scent, I like it but am not raving about it. Histoires de Parfums has a line of scents named after the birth years of French authors. 1828 refers to the year Jules Verne was born. Other masculine fragrances are 1725 (Casanova) and 1740 (Marquis de Sade!).

    05 April, 2008

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    Gramercy Park by Bond No. 9

    I can see why people like Gramercy Park. It is a lovely, spring-like green scent. Although it has different fragrance elements from Mugler Cologne, it evokes a similar happy mood in me. The green-leaf aspect is amazing: it is very crisp, cheery and distinctive. Gradually, very light wood tones infuse and mingle with the green notes. This is a very interesting, sheer scent. I think of a stained-glass window, with translucent shades of white, light green and light brown... and the sun shining brightly through them all. Somewhere outside, a bird is singing.

    05 April, 2008

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    Nicolaï pour Homme by Nicolaï

    Fragrance notes: mint, galbanum, lavender, jasmine, spruce, cedar, geranium, tobacco moss, amber benzoin, labdanum
    Nicolai pour Homme has two contradictory phases. I tried it for the first phase, and for an all-too-brief period the icy mint and spicy galbanum were interesting. Then NpH does a 180-degree turn and warms up too much! There are very, very ambery tones: balsam, vanilla, coconut, leather, butter. The amber, labdanum and benzoin make an ambery brew that is ponderously rich. Not woody enough to interest me, too sweet, not my style at all. A disappointment.

    05 April, 2008

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    Yerbamate by Lorenzo Villoresi

    Baby power and sweet hay – that’s what Yerbamate by Villoresi is for me. I don’t find it to be complex, dry, smoky or woody; or even very green. I do find it very sweet and ambery. Ayala captures it so well, I’ll quote her: “heaps of dried hay and powdery coumarin... extreme indulgence in powdery ambery feathery fluff bordering on the dessert kind.” Exactly. I washed this off. Villoresi can make superb fragrances, I love Uomo. That is excellent!

    05 April, 2008

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    Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Luten’s Vetiver Oriental is a lovely, velvety scent; it is vetiver with all the edges smoothed and polished. And therein is its strength or weakness, depending on your perspective. I like a vetiver that is a little leaner and edgier than this. I appreciate the beautiful rich notes here but they don’t quite suit me. I find that the benzoin lends its usual vanilla-balsamic notes and they are the deal-breaker. There are hints of wonderful woods but they are not developed to my satisfaction. For me, this scent is the usual case of, “I’d rather meet the woman wearing it than wear it myself.”

    05 April, 2008

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    Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

    It took a while, but I came to appreciate VC&A’s Pour Homme. Before trying it, I knew it was a brown-hued powerhouse from the late 70’s. I wondered if it would be too strong or rich for me, and in its middle phase it does get pretty big! In the end, it is a lovely scent and I endorse it fully. It has an excellent green herbal opening, one which I enjoy. The middle is spicy and powerful, with rich patchouli. The wood notes are (to my taste) quite subdued. In the initial phase of the base, the scent is leathery. The castoreum adds a spicy oriental note. This is the love-it-or leave-it phase. But phase two of the base is where it all comes to rest, and delightfully so. Ultimately it becomes a gentle, mossy scent. It retains lovely notes of leather, with spices, amber and musk. If applied with a light hand, and with patience, we find something that is very attractive, very romantic, a quiet charmer.

    05 April, 2008

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    Spazio Krizia Uomo by Krizia

    Spazio Krizia Uomo is a strange, sweet, rather ‘precious’ scent. It is quite powdery, with vanilla and musky notes. NN is correct in comparing it to Moustache and Etiquette Bleu, odd scents all. Not something I’d wear. Not a masculine scent, and I can’t even imagine liking it on a woman. Deservedly obscure, in my opinion.

    05 April, 2008

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    Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès

    Eau d’Orange Verte is marvelous. It has a beautiful, even ‘yummy’ lemon-orange opening. It is crisp, fruity, tasty, invigorating, and refreshingly acidic. The citrus mellows with the floral and green tones which follow. It drys into a lovely light moss, with mint and bergamot. There is also a light wood tone with a hint of patchouli. There is also some kind of very tangy green note in the dry-down that I can’t identify. It may be due to the patchouli/moss interaction. It is something like celery leaves: a nutty-sweet aspect, slightly tangy. Eau d’Orange Verte is not as herbal or complex as Eau de Rochas pour Homme or O de Lancome pour Homme, which are other citrus-chypres. But it is much greener and crisper than Concentrée d’Orange Verte.

    05 April, 2008

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    L'Eau de Gouverneur / L'Homme by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    Fragrance notes
    Top: verbena, bergamot, lemon
    Mid: clary sage, nutmeg, pepper, clove
    Base: cedar, vetiver, tonka, musk
    L’Homme by Comptoir Sud Pacifique has a lovely citrusy-aromatic opening. The verbena is well done, with its typical lemon-basil-baked bread notes. This gives a nice transition to the green spice middle, which is an appealing concoction of dusky clary sage and peppery spices. The clove is prominent and gives a brisk and assertive character. L’Homme winds up being as an excellent vetiver/spice/wood scent. Every element develops and interacts in a very satisfying manner. A warming cool-weather scent.

    05 April, 2008

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    Armani Privé Bois d'Encens by Giorgio Armani

    Bois D’Encens is fantastic! It joins my Cyprès-Musc and Bois D’Orage in a ‘holy trinity’ of perfect, dry resinous scents. I love that kind of fragrance and Bois D’Encens is tremendous. The promotion for it boasts of only five ingredients. That simplicity gives the scent what seems to me to be a virile confidence that is very attractive. Resinous incense dominates this scent. It is bone-dry, sappy rather than smoky, unadorned by any softening elements (e.g., florals, vanilla, amber), and quietly BOLD. Those who detect vanilla are probably detecting a balsamic note to the resins. The austerity (in my opinion and to my taste) makes this succeed where Avignon fails. Other elements (pepper, vetiver, and probably cedar) play a very low-key and supporting role to the majestic incense. Yes, this style is niche, expensive, and may be hard to find. But I find it well worth the effort. Wearing this makes a statement of uniqueness and character that makes you stand out from the herd. I think that this is the most masculine (by far) of the Privé line. Fabulous, haunting, evocative... I can’t say enough about this. It is cool and warm at the same time. And, as noted, the presentation (bottle, wooden box, cardboard cover) is excellent. This is why I collect and wear scents. Any day will be improved when you wear it. Every thumb I own is pointed upward for this.

    18 January, 2008 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    Erolfa by Creed

    I am open to the mystique and romance of the ocean! I wish I could report that I had the same marvelous seaside fragrance experiences as some of the reviewers of Erolfa. I don’t dislike it... I’m just not bowled over by it. It has a great opening: very citrusy, sharp, salty, briny, tangy. It is quite invigorating. After that, it settles into what seems to me to be a rather basic ozonic note. It is pleasant smelling in a fresh way, but its synthetic character does not appeal to me greatly. It smells like a lot of commercial and inexpensive ocean-style scents and soaps. I wonder how Creed achieves that ozonic note. I read somewhere in Basenotes that the Victorians rendered the note through a combination of geranium and mint; but I don’t get either of those here. That “fresh” scent seems quite synthetic to me, and thus out of character for the Creed emphasis on high-end natural elements. The sandalwood is quite muted as a woody note, and presents the sharp tangy quality sometimes found in extracts of that wood. The amber is dry and restrained, not powdery at all. This is not a comfort scent – it is austere and cool. I like that style (e.g., Blenheim Bouquet or Green Water) but I’m neutral on ozone. I don’t get any green or coniferous notes. This seems entirely “blue” (marine) to me. Oh well, this will be a fun fresh thing once in a while, just not a go-to scent.

    17 January, 2008 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    ArbitRary by Ayala Moriel

    Although ArbitRary can be a unisex fragrance, I like to think it has a masculine ‘sensibility’, and it is one that I greatly appreciate! It is quite lively and refreshing, but it is not at all floral or sweet. I also think it is a very well-designed fragrance. By that I mean that the transitions from top to mid to base are sophisticated and effective. Specifically, the fresh and appealing basil of the top is continued and developed in the basil-lemon notes of verbena in the middle, and those herbal aspects reach a culmination in the grassy hay and moss notes of the base. This is a great modern take on the classic chypre; which I understand to be a citrus and grass sort of scent, like the breeze wafting through the lemon groves and fields of Cypress. A romantic image to be sure, but the appeal of a good scent is so much in romance and connotation. This is a very attractive, Mediterranean style of summery scent... I love it!

    16 January, 2008 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    French Lover / Bois d'Orage by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Top - Pimento, Galbanum, (spices: Nutmeg, Cardamom, Pepper, Clove)
    Middle - Cedar, Incense (frankincense), Angelica
    Base - Vetiver, Oakmoss, “White Musk” (synthetic musks: karamal, ambroxan)
    There is a lot of chatter about Bois D’Orage. If you like a “bone-dry, aromatic chypre and incense scent”, then you will love this one! I’ve amended the fragrance notes to reflect some of the things I’ve read about this marvelous scent. Some of the notes below are very erudite and I agree with them. There is a wonderfully aromatic opening. It is very typical of galbanum (spicy green). The middle is excellent. It has very true cedarwood and a lovely dry, lean and resinous frankincense accord. This is the equal of Cyprès-Musc or Bois D’Encens (two of my favorites of this type). This is substantial, but not heavy or rich. I tried this last night, and then also detected at times another phase, what I would call “scent of a man”. It is something in the style of Cumming, a vague sort of male odor that probably comes from the synthetic musks. Karamal apparently has an ‘animalic’ quality. I didn’t get that third phase today so it may be an intermittent thing. Finally, Bois D’Orage settles into a lovely dry resinous woody musk. For me, the dry resin dominates more than its initial moist green qualities... herbal, vegetal, forest. It is striking due to its lack of softening agents (floral, vanilla) – hooray! I find it very satisfying and attractive. My fullest endorsement for this! Lots of thumbs up.

    14 January, 2008 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    Eau de Campagne by Sisley

    Fragrance notes for Eau de Campagne
    Top: bergamot, lemon, basil, wild herbs, galbanum
    Mid: tomato leaves, lily of the valley, jasmine, geranium, plum
    Base: oak moss, patchouli, vetiver, musk
    “A brisk, spirited green fragrance... dynamic, original.”
    Well, this green scent lover is a happy camper today. Eau de Campagne is a wonderful, distinctive scent. It has a very zesty, invigorating opening. The herbal notes are very well done; and the tomato leaves are a stroke of genius and are also very accurately rendered. This is a stroll in my vegetable and herb garden. The florals soften the greenery but are not a distinct element. The drydown has an emphasis on vetiver and musk. This is an excellent tonic pick-me-up. Highly recommended for green fans!

    13 January, 2008 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande by Hermès

    Fragrance notes: Black pepper, Chili pepper, Oak, Cedar, Musk, Chinese Moss
    Thanks to Ayala (below) for these fragrance notes, it is hard to find concrete information about the Hermèssence line. I agree with comments which characterize Poivre Samarcande as delicate, subtle, and transparent. I would add to the list of terms: light, mild, restrained, low key, barely there. There’s a nice citrus sort of opening, followed by a light spicy wood accord. There’s a fresh herbal note that I like, probably due to lime leaves (which I read somewhere are in here). In my opinion, the pepper is very muted. For a scent named “Poivre” I was expected something spicier, with more fire or tangy bite. I guess it is attractive, and it nicely sits quite close to the skin. But there’s not enough oomph or distinction here to make me interested. Not problematic... just not wow.

    11th January, 2008 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    Blu Mediterraneo Tuscan Cypress / Cipresso di Toscana by Acqua di Parma

    Fragrance notes: clary sage, basil, lavender, cypress
    I am a huge fan of coniferous scents... I like them all! Bring ‘em on! Yes, Tuscan Cypress is more delicate than Creed’s incredible Cyprès-Musc (a great favorite). But TC is a very worthy bottle in my collection. There is a marvelous green-herbal opening: excellent basil, a hint of dry lavender, and a good dollop of musky clary sage. The cypress note quickly develops and has a lovely piney wood tone. This is a tonic fragrance, it is meant to be straight-forward, clean, bracing, invigorating. It is an excellent day and summer scent. I appreciate the way that the basil persists and settles into the green accord; it interacts very well with the other elements. At first, the basil was so apparent that I wondered if TC was a re-vamped version of the discontinued Fogile di Basilico, also by Blu Mediterraneo. A comparative spritz settled the question. FB is very green with a strong fruity note from bergamot. TC has a much more aromatic quality due to the clary sage and cypress. I like it very much.

    09 January, 2008 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    Blu Mediterraneo Marine Oak / Quercia Marina by Acqua di Parma

    Fragrance notes: “marine oak,” carnation, mint, cedar.
    Marine Oak has a lovely and bold opening. It is herbal and woody, a real “brown” sort of scent. Note: marine oak is not wood at all, it is a kind of seaweed. The wood note comes from the cedar. Carnation and mint spice up and freshen the herbal-seaweed fragrance. This was designed to be a tonic scent: thus it is bracing and quite aromatic. It is a different sort of scent – it is powerful, so don’t over-apply. I like it.

    08 January, 2008

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    4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser by 4711

    There is some debate as to which is the original cologne, 4711 or Jean-Marie Farina (aka Extra Vielle) by Roger & Gallet. Here are my notes of comparison. 4711 is very lemony and refreshing, with a bit of rose and a hint of rosemary to freshen. It has a tiny bit of musk, and no wood that I can detect. Its lemon persists an amazingly long time for a citrus note – I give it credit for that. This is a simple fragrance. (For an amazing lemon-musk, try Eau Sauvage.) JMF is similar but at the same time is darker, deeper and more interesting. It has more depth and complexity, in my opinion. Carnation gives it a bit of clovey spice. It is a bit drier and spicier than 4711, and I like it better.

    08 January, 2008 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    Sultan Safran / Safranier by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    Top: bergamot, green mandarin
    Mid: saffron, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, nutmeg, cinnamon leaf
    Base: patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, musk
    Well, I will offer a very enthusiastic endorsement of Safranier! I think this is a marvelously dry and slightly spicy wood scent. The citrus opening is lovely but for me, quite brief. The middle is what I would call a spicy floral (emphasis on the spice) and is well integrated. The spices are dusty, dusky, woody and quite attractive. They blend together well. The base starts with creamy sandalwood. That remains at the centre, and is supported by dry and restrained patchouli. A bit of cedar freshens and adds complexity, and musk softens. But the sandalwood endures, and is excellent and not sharp as it sometimes is in scents. I like this very much.

    20th December, 2007 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    Bois de Filao by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    Top: lemon, bergamot, papyrus
    Mid: baie rose, violet leaf
    Base: patchouli, filao wood, amber, white musk
    I tried Bois de Filao because I am interested in woody scents. This is not particularly woody.
    The opening is nice and citrusy. Don’t know what papyrus smells like but there didn’t seem to be any dry leafy/paper-like smell here. A hint of wood peeks out from time to time, but it is drowned in a sweet accord of patchouli and powdery, vanillan amber. Don’t care for this one at all!

    19 December, 2007 (Last Edited: 05 April, 2008)

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    Cumming by Alan Cumming

    Base notes of leather, peat fire, highland mud, burnt rubber and white truffle ground the scent with rugged sensuality, while the core notes of cigar, heather, Douglas fir and rubber contribute to its sharpness. The fragrance is completed with spicy top notes of bergamot, black pepper, Scotch pine and whiskey.” (from Cumming website)
    I’ve included the product blurb in order to probe the issue of hype versus reality. At the outset, I can say I kind of like this scent; however it is very different from what the ingredients or the promotions suggest. This is not a rugged romp in the moors, nor is it an industrial noveau scent à la Comme des Garçons. It is a soft, coy, almost pretty scent and... depending on one’s perspective, a bit precious. I tried Cumming because I am interested in anything containing pine. That, plus all these oddball elements, intrigued me. The opening is not “spicy.” It is unusual, I struggle to categorize it but would call it toasty-nutty-gourmand. At times it is a bit like marzipan (sweet almond paste). The core is not “sharp.” Tiny, tiny micro-bits of pine might be there, to freshen the scent. Also there’s a very mild whiff of a distant cigar. At times there is a briny, creamy aspect. The dominant element in the middle is heather, a light floral scent. Finally the base does not have “rugged sensuality.” It sits very close to the skin, and is subtle and low-key. It lasts a couple of hours. I don’t think this would offend anyone, and it might smell quite nice on women. Really guys, there is nothing macho here so don’t expect otherwise.

    18 December, 2007

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