Perfume Reviews

Reviews by odysseusm

Total Reviews: 1583

Armani Eau de Nuit Oud by Giorgio Armani

A competent if somewhat generic oud-spice/floral blend. The floral notes are pleasant, but there is a wet cardboard note at the beginning which muddles them. Somewhat spicy. The dry-down is not satisfactory -- sweet, musky and cloying. The oud note is identifiable but not particularly interesting.
27th November, 2016

Baptême du Feu by Serge Lutens

I was underwhelmed by this scent. I think it could have been much more interesting. The "scorched mandarin peel" and gunpowder should have produced a smokey, mineral note like fireworks. Not really any of that. Gingerbread + osmanthus should be a tea-and-cake chord... barely that. No animalic notes that I can see, nor any wood.
The main element is the osmanthus: a green-white floral, a bit like jasmine with a peach note in the background. Oddly metallic. A slight toasted note lurked in the far edges.
Different and unusual -- sort of. But not all that intriguing.
13th November, 2016

J'Adore by Christian Dior

A pretty, cheery and subtle floral. Slightly sweet but shows good taste. Light, nothing heavy here. Cute, clean and fun. If lightly applied it sits close to the skin and indeed becomes a good, somewhat sexy skin scent for a woman.
12th November, 2016
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Colonia Intensa Oud Concentrée / Colonia Oud Concentrée by Acqua di Parma

This is an attractive, accessible oud scent. All of the intrigue and mysterious exoticism, with no challenging notes. A leather-spice chord mingles with oud and is framed by a old wood foundation. The impression is of an old spice trunk which has sailed the world on a clipper ship. Rich but not sweet. Warming.
08th November, 2016

Acqua di Parma Colonia Quercia by Acqua di Parma

An unmitigated disaster, quite unworthy of the AdP name. My heart sank when my first impression was of a very brash bergamot -- a style typical many "manly" and loud scents. This was followed by a big dollop of sweet cardamom, and an odd toasted nut note. The patchouli was tangy and sweet. The tonka was vanillin and hay-like and a bit sweet. The oak moss had an unpleasant, brackish quality to it. In sum: sour, unpleasant, loud, elevator-guy. A real scrubber.
07th November, 2016

Vert Bohème by Tom Ford

This is a lovely, green, spring-like scent. The crisp galbanum is softened by a white floral heart. Not sweet or heavy. The green eventually diminishes and the scent becomes a pretty white floral. A faint hint of violet pervades. I don't get any wood.
07th November, 2016

Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules

Similar to Molecule 01, being sharp, medicinal and minimal. An even less impressive dry-down makes this quite forgettable.
30th October, 2016

Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules

Unimpressive venture into pure minimalism. Sharp, medicinal, smells like weak disinfectant. Perhaps if I am charitable I can imagine a slight smoky note in the dry-down.
30th October, 2016

Escentric 02 by Escentric Molecules

Oh, I don't like this at all! Wet cardboard, cold green vegetable water. bleh!
30th October, 2016

Pasha Edition Noire by Cartier

I don't like this flanker as well as the regular Pasha. The regular one has interesting mint and thyme notes -- here, they are a very generic and undistinguished green melange which is a tad synthetic-fresh. The citrus notes are toned down as well. I find this a bit loud and elevator-guy.
24th October, 2016

Escentric 03 by Escentric Molecules

This review was written with no prior knowledge of the alleged notes. Citrus, seems to be a very grapefruit sort of note. First white grapefruit, then pink. The white aspect has a sort of metallic sharpness, whereas the pink verges into or combines with rose.
> So I see ginger, lime and jasmine are the notes. Well, I would not have guessed that. The citrus note is super-persistant. It must be carefully engineered to last that long. It is like a simple and strong concept of citrus.
24th October, 2016

Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules

This review is written with no prior knowledge of the alleged notes.
Crisp and citrus-y, with a kind of soapy background. Pleasant, clean, simple. Dry-down develops a mineral, pencil-lead aspect (very slight). Subtle, close to the skin.
> Now I am surprised to see mastic and incense listed as notes. Well, I do not really detect them -- so if you are looking for those notes and like them, you won't really find them here in any prominent way.
24th October, 2016

Pasha by Cartier

How has this very nice aromatic fougere escaped my notice until now? It has a lovely green herb and mint opening, with hints of camphor/lavender. There is a sustained peppery spice note from the coriander. Dry and airy, with a hint of rich sweetness from the rosewood. The thyme note develops and becomes somewhat earthy and herbal, but it is always balanced the freshness of the mint and lavender and the dryness of the spice. Slight mossy dry-down. Widely available, good quality -- a no-brainer for class!
23rd October, 2016
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Marte Red Planet by Battistoni

A very brash scent, quite down-market in style. Loud bergamot and aggressive mint. Green, aromatic and herbal -- but pretty synth versions of those items. Faint wood. Shallow and metallic. Nothing to recommend.
21st October, 2016

Dot by Comme des Garçons

A fruity floral. Green, with a vague resin and wood chord. Low-key, sits close to the skin. Ok, but poor longevity. An unremarkable offering from a usually distinctive house.
21st October, 2016

Ambre 114 by Histoires de Parfums

Buttery, sugary, vanilla. Like a freshly-baked cookie. Not my style but many like this sort of thing. Smells nice, just not anything I would like to wear or smell on someone. In a kitchen from the oven, yes. Some herbal notes do appear after a while.
16th October, 2016

Rosamunda by Laboratorio Olfattivo

This is a good, complex scent. It is a little on the sweet side, but since it is marketed on the feminine side that is to be expected. The rose note is good, certainly identifiable as such. The wood and oud notes are very good, easy to wear, earthy and intriguing. There is a hint of spice. I thought it was pepper but it is listed as saffron. The sweetness largely is in the opening and the scent settles into a pleasant wood-spice chord.
14th October, 2016

Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

Has a soft, powdery opening -- powdery, yet dry. The ginger is of the spice jar variety rather than freshly-cut root. The scent is subtle. The alleged "pumpkin flesh" note is, in my opinion, misleading. I don't get a rather earthy, fleshy, pulpy note at all -- nor do I get pumpkin pie (which one might expect). It is a distinctive note, and not familiar (whatever it is). The floral notes are so muted that I did not detect them -- and normally rose and heliotrope have a distinctive profile. The scent settles into a light ginger-musk, with a faint trace of grassy vetiver. I didn't find it to be compelling, and in fact after a while I got tired of it and washed it off. Not a wretched scent, and not offensive. Just didn't interest me.
10th October, 2016

Galop d'Hermès by Hermès

I had a little spritz in my local shop. They had not been given a tester so they were doling it out from a tiny sample bottle. Thus, I did not get a big application. At that point, I did not know the listed notes -- so here is my blind impression of the scent.
Pink grapefruit. Leather/oud. Some kind of floral dry-down. A musky-spice finale.
Looking at the notes, I am surprised that the note is quince rather than pink grapefruit. I don't know quince so well, but the note smelled exactly like a zesty pink grapefruit to me. Evidently the leather note is rather complex which may be why it suggested oud to me as well. Now, I certainly know rose notes (who doesn't?) but the floral here seemed quite vague and certainly not rose-like. Saffron as the spice? Sure, it was a dry, musky sort of spice.
Not something I'd seek out. It certainly (and predictably) continues the Hermes "leather" house note in yet another scent.
10th October, 2016

NOOUD by Baruti

This is a good, but not particularly distinctive scent. The wood and oud notes are pleasant, regardless of what makes them. The scent is pleasant, a bit simple and straightforward, and certainly inoffensive. Dry but with a suggestion of sweetness one often finds in wood scents. Briefly there is a turpenic note at the beginning which is pretty good. Good longevity.
04th October, 2016

Sandalwood by Art of Shaving

In my opinion, the aftershave balm has a nicer sandalwood note. This scent barely registered on my skin.
25th September, 2016

Excess No. 28 by Tokyo Milk

Woody in a respectable way. Background notes of amber, perhaps a hint of orange. Mineral/earth note from the patchouli. Fairly sweet but it is ok.
24th September, 2016

Black by Comme des Garçons

This is a good, basic sort of woody scent, the sort of thing CdG has as a specialty. Starts a bit sweet. Develops smoky, woody notes with a noticeable licorice aspect. The leather and wood give a gentleman's club atmosphere. Eventually the scent resolves into a simple but pleasant wood chord, of good longevity.
23rd September, 2016

Vert de Bois by Tom Ford

Delightful! Very attractive green scent, crisp and appealing. It has a sparkling, fizzy quality which may be from an aldehyde boost. Freshly-cut grass, hint of anise. White flowers soften and add a lovely note. Resinous note from the mastic. Not sweet, just right. Hint of smoke in the dry-down. Definitely worth checking out!
17th September, 2016

Kingston Ferry by Olympic Orchids

I don't like this one at all. Starts very salty, herbal and aromatic -- clearly a seaside scene. No florals that I can detect. Then, it takes on the smell of urine. Like some animal has peed on a scrubby mint bush. The mint note grows, as well as a toasted, nutty note, resulting in a sort of hay/chamomile chord. There is a metallic note lurking in the background. I scrubbed it off.
17th September, 2016

Siam Proun by Olympic Orchids

Interesting range of opinions. On my skin, this immediately goes to thyme. I have never found a satisfactory thyme scent. Always, it starts off somewhat interesting and dusky. Then, minute by minute it gets heavier, sweeter, and bigger. Eventually I have to wash it off.
The citrus and lavender are non-existent (for me).
16th September, 2016

Red Fleece for Her by Brooks Brothers

A bit sweet, a bit "pink" in tone (light florals, spring-like), with a hint of berries. Safe and predictable, but quite pleasant. Not heavy or cloying. Fresh and fun.
16th September, 2016

Red Fleece for Him by Brooks Brothers

Typical men's mainstream scent. Sporty, fresh, a bit sweet. Hints of spice in a clean, bright style. Little bit of vanilla in the finish to give it a familiar, comfort-zone aura. everything is safe and predictable here, nothing offensive or loud. Many would like it.
16th September, 2016

Kyphi by Olympic Orchids

I have a mild thumbs-up. Some of its merit lies in the concept, namely an homage/recreation of an ancient Egyptian incense (Kyphi). That would have been a paste of raisins, frankincense and myrrh, honey and spices, with perhaps some herbal notes.
This scent leaves the raisin-y rich fruit to Serge Lutens territory, and attempts a lighter but still interesting take on the tradition. There is a brief engagement with conifer at the very beginning. This is frankincense and is regrettably brief. Of longer duration is the myrrh, here heady and soapy. The beeswax gives a honeyed note but also something waxy, almost like crayons. Calamus is an interesting touch -- earthy, sweet, green, reedy. Perhaps it is included to suggest papyrus growing along the Nile. The scent has a somewhat cool vibe, like an old pyramid chamber. The spices suggest pepper and cardamom. The scent is a bit sweeter and denser than I like, and I regret the shortness of the frankincense. Nonetheless, it is an intriguing scent and worth trying if these things sound appealing.
15th September, 2016

Arizona by Olympic Orchids

A 5-star thumbs up from me. I don't give those easily.
Green, coniferous, resinous, dry, sharp, aromatic, dusky. All the qualities I appreciate in a scent. Dense, almost "full-bodied" in construction, with a fruity note from the juniper that is almost like bergamot. Notes reminiscent of wild mint, artemesia, wild fennel, and scrubby undergrowth. In style, much like the Juniper Ridge foraged scents. Very satisfying to wear, and good longevity. A delight!
14th September, 2016