Perfume Reviews

Reviews by odysseusm

Total Reviews: 1457

The British Bouquet by Atkinsons

Starts with an aromatic dusky citrus note. The "malt" is evident immediately, in a toasty, fruity-fermented note. Not particularly pleasant, in my opinion. A vague green crisp leafy note, from the myrtle. No lavender.
Cool, aquatic, generic. Uninspiring, bland and slightly sweet in dry-down. Nothing to recommend it, and certainly not to warrant its high price.
26th April, 2016

The Excelsior Bouquet by Atkinsons

I like this scent. It is interesting, distinctive, very dry with no florals.
Starts with a citrus yellow grapefruit note. This combines well with the mineral-flint accord. There are hints of herbs and spices, the latter is mostly a cool pepper. This is a very subtle scent, much less bold than Terre D'Hermes. Some might complain that it is too subtle or find it a bit faint, but I appreciate it.
25th April, 2016

Night Scented Jasmine by Floris

Not my style but here is what I find.
Starts with watery-green floral notes. These are quite sweet and in a rather dense clump of various florals, hard to distinguish between them. Touch of tropical fruit? Settles into a sweet musk. A pretty, young, girly sort of scent. Fairly straight-forward and simple, a touch "in your face" but OK if you like that sort of thing.
24th April, 2016
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Lavender on the Rocks by Atkinsons

I get a reverse pyramid here. Namely that the oud/wood register approximately one second after hitting my skin. They hang around for a while. A pleasant, low-key, somewhat sweet oud. Probably synthetic. After a while, some herbal notes make an appearance. I feel the lavender (despite being both "essence" and "absolute") is of rather inferior quality, and thus not particularly interesting. Gets sweeter in the dry-down.
I have often wondered what an oud/lavender scent would be like. There must be something better than this.
18th April, 2016

Carven L'Eau Intense by Carven

It isn't a disaster, but it has a note which seems synthetic to me and I find it problematic.
Points in its favour -- dry, cool, some approximation of some of the notes. Hint of ginger, bit of camphoraceous lavender, woody notes and a sort of moss in the dry-down.
Points against -- mint is synthetic, perhaps the birch also -- or at least give that sort of vibe.
A very frosty sort of scent, with more than a tinge of elevator guy.
18th April, 2016

Bottega Veneta Essence Aromatique pour Homme by Bottega Veneta

Dreadful. Brash, loud, elevator-guy.
Big ol' bergamot, the sign of many guy scents.
Full, nauseatingly sweet with a vanilla tinge.
Could have been a fougere in style but also has gourmand and aquatic vibes.
Yuck is an appropriate term for this early stage.
Pine? Not in anyone's wildest dreams. A somewhat acceptable generic woody dry-down. A plank. No resin.
18th April, 2016

Posh on the Green by Atkinsons

Has a crisp, citrus-lemon opening. Refreshing, the best part of the scent.
Gets an odd, dirty note.
Then an unpleasant, synthetic grassy note.
Shallow, sour, synthetic dry-down.
A travesty to the term "green."
18th April, 2016

Royal Mayfair by Creed

This is an odd duck. Looking at the notes list, it should be brilliant and exactly the sort of scent I like. I find it to be a failure.
Gin? A very vague fresh note at the beginning, quickly lost. So much for the juniper berries. The one note which comes from gin is a very pronounced coriander seed, that often being used as one of the aromatics in gin. Here it is nutty and it runs roughshod over more delicate notes.
Pine? Couldn't find any.
Roses? They are a very odd, rubbery sort of note here. It took several sprays over two days before I could identify them as roses rather than rubber. The first time I sprayed this, I thought, "car tires on wooden planks in the sun." As well, the rubbery note at times has a rather cocoa-chocolate vibe. Don't know what that is about.
Eucalyptus? Again, a vaguely cool-fresh note.
The cedar is the only thing true to form, and it appears very late in the game, several hours in.
In sum, a confusing jumble of closely-packed and odd notes, few of which seem true to form.
12th April, 2016

Habit Rouge by Guerlain

A classic but not my style.
Spicy-rich, substantial, fairly sweet and dense, heavily floral, too much vanilla for me to tolerate.
09th April, 2016

Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate by Hermès

Notes probably are: citrus, rhubarb, green notes, red berries, white musk.

Tangy citrus and berries. Am disappointed in that those notes are prominent, rather than a very tart, assertive rhubarb. Given the scent's name, I would have expected that to be front and centre. This is sweeter than I'd expect from a rhubarb-centric scent. The red berries/fruit give it a juvenile aspect, definitely a teener scent. actually, I find this to be bland and unsatisfactory.
06th April, 2016

24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract by Atkinsons

Should be better. At least this scent registers on the nose-ometer, whereas the 24 Old Bond Street regular hardly did. This has some smokey notes and the tonka note reminds me a bit of tobacco. Moderately acceptable but hardly worth seeking out.
04th April, 2016 (last edited: 03rd April, 2016)

24 Old Bond Street by Atkinsons

I think the "feminine" designation is incorrect -- it was in the men's section of my store. That being said, it is a rather weak offering. The juniper registers as a sort of fresh note. Rose - no evidence. "Oak casked whiskey" - none that I could detect.
A very attenuated, fresh scent. That's about it.
04th April, 2016 (last edited: 03rd April, 2016)

Musgo Real No. 4: Lavender by Claus Porto

A marvellously simple lavender: not sweet, herbal, quite authentic. Simplicity done well.
01st April, 2016
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Sandalwood / Santal by Floris

This is a warm, beautiful sandalwood scent. Starts with rich, barbershop spices. The cloves are noteworthy -- not a note I crave but they are done well here, with a slight medicinal tang and not heavy. Subtle hints of green leaves, wood and incense add to the appeal. The sandalwood is creamy and warm. A mere hint of vanilla (another note I don't usually like) but here it adds to the overall scent. Excellent!
29th March, 2016

10 Crosby Rain Day by Derek Lam

The neroli smells more like a brash and somewhat synthetic orange note than an actual blossom. Rather like some synth bergamot notes one often encounters in male scents. Then, there is briefly a wet-pavement smell which unfortunately is more sweet than I'd expect in that sort of note. Poof, it is gone. No semblance of vetiver that I can fine. A vaguely sweet musk dry-down. Nothing remarkable here.
21st March, 2016

Armani Privé Rouge Malachite by Giorgio Armani

Ah, tuberose. I wondered what the note was. Now I recognize its kind of rich, fleshy tone. I got a bit of pepper in the beginning, and a mineral note as well. Not my cup of tea but it is ok, gets rather sweet in the dry-down.
13th March, 2016

The Herb Garden Collection : Carrot Blossom & Fennel by Jo Malone

This is heaviest and sweetest of the Herb Garden Collection, I don't really care for it. It is green (which is good) but the fennel note is rather stronger and more one-dimensional than I care for. A freshly-cut fennel bulb with a bit of a metallic edge.
13th March, 2016

Malabah by Penhaligon's

Several have called this a "light oriental" and I agree. This is a mild-mannered, shy sort of scent. Pretty, but not too sweet and not heavy at all. Could be unisex.
A hint of bergamot at the beginning, and a light tea note. Dusky ginger and mild spices pair with a soapy rose. Sweetens a bit in the dry-down with the amber. Grainy sandalwood and occasionally a celery leaf note -- don't know what causes that.
A pleasant, somewhat innocuous scent.
13th March, 2016

Héritage by Guerlain

Interesting, classy scent. I sampled it without knowing its notes. I could tell that it had something green, dry and herbaceous at the centre. I'm surprise to see that it is coriander -- the leaves, obviously, not the seed. Otherwise known as cilantro.
Starts with a citrus opening, but the lemon is not obvious. Perhaps hints of camphoraceous lavender but these too are subdued.
In fact, everything is throttled-back in the cause of sophisticated understatement.
Hint of tonka/vanilla in the dry-down, but be assured that the scent is dry throughout.
12th March, 2016

The Herb Garden Collection : Wild Strawberry & Parsley by Jo Malone

This is a very delicate scent, not a rich candy/gourmand type. As the "Herb Garden" name suggests, it is mean to evoke the pleasant scents of an herbal garden. Here, the strawberries are still a bit green and crisp. That note works well with a faint violet note. The tomato leaf is extremely faint, not a major player.
Again -- this is a very delicate and subtle scent, a mere whisper of notes.
07th March, 2016

The Herb Garden Collection : Lavender & Coriander by Jo Malone

This is a very acceptable lavender scent. The lavender is true, not faux. Hints of green herbal notes, which are subtly done. The coriander leaf is not perky and over the top. The sage is mellow. The scent overall is light and translucent. It develops minty, camphoraceous notes. The tonka bean is mild, and softens slightly without adding a strong vanilla/hay note.
Well done. And would add a lovely lavender layer to many scents.
07th March, 2016

The Herb Garden Collection : Nasturtium & Clover by Jo Malone

Smells better on paper than on skin.
On paper, it has a nice crunchy-leafy note, like Diptyques' Eau de Lierre. That would be the clover.
On skin, it is a bit sweet, apricot-fruity, watery, metallic and unpleasant.
No rocket (arugula), no nasturtium, no vetiver.
07th March, 2016

Midnight Oud by Juliette Has a Gun

This has a friendly, easy-to-wear and straightforward oud scent. Leathery and intriguing, a good introduction to oud. Works well with the dusky saffron. I feel it cries out for a touch of deep rose to round it out and add depth, but others may disagree. The scent is not cloying and the amber is suitably restrained.
06th March, 2016

Moon Dance by Juliette Has a Gun

Rather sweet and floral. -- no surprise, given the listed notes. More rose than violet, I'd say. Fleshy, buttery notes from the tuberose appear Settles into a rich musky/powder chord with a slight earthy, leathery aspect. Feminine in style, seems OK if you like that sort of thing. Nothing unpleasant about it, given the style.
05th March, 2016

The Herb Garden Collection : Sorrel & Lemon Thyme by Jo Malone

The lemon is prominent and pleasant, the thyme is noticeable but not overwhelming. An attractive and somewhat low-key, lemon-herbal scent.
01st March, 2016

Verde Mare by Bois 1920

Don't like it. Green but fairly sweet. Initially, the note is either clean/fresh or wet cardboard. The juniper berry smells like faint mint. Don't care for the fruit notes. Briefly had a somewhat intriguing smoky aspect but that was offset by more wet cardboard. The florals are a huddled and rather dense mass, no redeeming features of interest. Grows cold, metallic and irritating as the hours go by.
28th February, 2016

Oro 1920 by Bois 1920

It is not my style but I recognize that it is a good, attractive scent.
Sweet, spicy, lots of rich and pretty florals. A leather-oriented scent. Agree that it is a unisex scent. I wish that it profiled the incense and fir balsam more.
27th February, 2016

Dolce di Giorno by Bois 1920

Neutral on this. It is ok, rather simple, woody and boring.
Very woody from the get-go. Wet cedar planks, hint of wet cardboard, hint of spice. Bit of creamy sandalwood and hint of incense. Not worth the price.
22nd February, 2016

Relativamente Rosso by Bois 1920

Just what I don't need, a gourmand incense floral. It says sugar as the top note and they ain't kidding! Whew! Much more than I can stand. The gourmand vanilla in the dry-down doesn't appeal to me either.
22nd February, 2016 (last edited: 21st February, 2016)

Oltremare by Bois 1920

Here are the notes according to the Bois 1920 website.

Top: Green Lemon, Italian Bergamot, Brazillian Sweet Orange, Bigarade, Sicilian Yellow Lemon, Limette

Heart: Mate Leaves, Red Tea, Juniper Berries, Rhubarb, Egyptian Geranium, Violet Leaves, Dutch Hyacinth, Mugane™

Dry down: Indian Sandalwood, White Musk, Ambergris, Indonesian Patchouli, Orcanox™

Fresh rhubarb is the distinctive feature here, folks. Very tart and bracing, and smells just like a freshly-cut stalk. Very crisp and zesty. Some silvery violet leaf lurking in the background. A lightly sweet musky in the dry-down. Interesting, not compelling in my estimation.
22nd February, 2016 (last edited: 21st February, 2016)