Perfume Reviews

Reviews by odysseusm

Total Reviews: 1645

Rosarium by Angela Ciampagna

Dusky, a bit sweet. Wet cardboard (briefly) and then violet leaf. Not a green scent.
25th November, 2017

Vétiver Moloko by Ex Nihilo

This is a delightful, well-designed vetiver. It has a perfect balance between the dry, grassy vetiver and cypress notes and the softness of the milk and very slight sweetness of the vanilla. Normally I don't endorse vanilla, but it works very well here. In the early going, the creamy accord is almost like coconut milk, but that does not last long. The vetiver is very well done: earthy, grassy, root-like, with a slight smoky note in the dry-down. Wears well, has good longevity.
25th November, 2017

Él by Arquiste

This is an interesting scent, definitely in a really old-school style. I can appreciate its depth and richness, but find it too sweet to suit me. It is in the mode of some of the vintage Crown Perfumery scents.
Has a very spicy citrus opening. The spices dominate for a while. The honey adds a really rich, deep and sweet note. Then, an animalic musky note emerges. A bit skanky but in a pleasant, interesting way. The sweetness diminishes but the richness persists.
Finally, the scent settles into its hay-like fougere aspect, with a smokey, leather twang.
Not a green fougere, and as I said quite old-school. If a super-vintage style appeals to you, then check it out.
14th November, 2017
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Nobil Homo : Dalmatian Sage by The Merchant of Venice

This is a very nice scent, and it comes in an attractive, pretty bottle.
The main ingredients are simple and few, and all well done.
The lemon is bright, refreshing, and of great duration.
The clary sage is very lightly applied, really the merest hint of an herbal note.
The vetiver is lemony-bright, with its characteristic earthy-soapy quality.
This is a summery spritz, bright and cheery. It reminds me very much of Givenchy Vetyver -- indeed, one would not need to have both scents.
13th November, 2017

Vetyverio Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

This has a very good opening of dry, grassy vetiver. That phase is regrettably brief. Then, a nutty space and carrot seed chord appears. Almost toasty at this point. Then, back to the vetiver, which persists this time. Low-key, unisex, distinguished.
05th November, 2017

Gosha Rubchinskiy by Comme des Garçons

Mild thumbs up. Interesting style, though not something I would commit to. Others have noted the industrial/concept opening and the pleasant dry-down, and I agree. First stage is cityscape: dirty ashtray, concrete, car fumes. Dry-down is the typical gorgeous incense-wood of many CdGs. Worth a try.
23rd September, 2017

Hyde Park by Hugh Parsons

A serviceable green scent. Starts off well: fresh and lively with a bit of dryness. Gets a bit sweeter in the dry-down. Nothing objectionable here, gets a mild thumbs-up for its green style.
23rd September, 2017

Vetiver Root / Green Tea / Cedarwood by Korres

Sweet, generic in style. Unremarkable.
23rd September, 2017

Apsu by Ulrich Lang

It is OK, not bottle-worthy for me. Very green, in a leafy-herbal way. Could be a bit more dry. Everything blends together and it is hard to pick out notes. Some may enjoy that. Green fans should try it.
23rd September, 2017

San Remo by Geo F Trumper

Not impressed. Sweet, floral. Not a garrigue (herbs on a warm breeze) scent. Not particularly distinctive.
23rd September, 2017

Savoy Steam Eau de Parfum by Penhaligon's

I find this to be very light, even in the Parfum version. A refreshing spritz but not a knock-out. Very subtle, citrus, light woods, a creamy-rosemary note with a hint of rose.
23rd September, 2017

Agarbathi by Penhaligon's

This is a good scent. Perhaps not remarkable, but quite pleasant. Light incense and light suede combine to create a masculine but not heavy/macho scent. The spices are good and smoothed out by the milk accord. The florals are not sweet. Despite a fir balsam absolute note listed, I did not detect a distinct coniferous note.
23rd September, 2017

Oud Minérale by Tom Ford

This is a very good scent. It definitely picks up on the salty, green notes. The aquatic note is fresh and pleasantly dry, not the usual sweet ozone. Hints of leather from the styrax. The oud is very muted at first but slowly develops. I like this.
09th August, 2017
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Boticario de Havana by Archipelago Botanicals

Lemony, green to start. Develops a mildly earthy chord of the spices, tobacco, patchouli and coffee. Should be more interesting.
05th August, 2017

Eau Chic by Astier de Villatte

Mild thumbs up. Starts as a gorgeous EdC in the classic style of citrus and herbs. Beautiful petitgrain note in the middle. This continues for a while. Then, the tuberose makes things a bit heavy, and the ylang-ylang makes this a bit rich, sweet and heady.
Nothing wrong with this, just not my style. But a lovely scent.
07th July, 2017

Byerley by Parfums de Marly

The cardamom registers as clove on my skin, and thus this scent delivers a perfect rendition of a pink carnation! Not at all what I was expecting. I found the wood notes to be quite weak, and likewise the vetiver.
02nd June, 2017

Neroli 36 by Le Labo

Not neroli or orange blossom or anything in that vicinity. Bergamot? Whatever it is, it is sweet, unpleasant and a real scrubber.
02nd June, 2017

Oud Essentiel by Guerlain

This is an amazing, beautiful scent! Rose, leather and oud are in absolutely perfect combination. All the notes are gentle and attractive. It is a joy to wear.
02nd June, 2017

Vetiver 46 by Le Labo

Spicy pepper and incense dominate, with some grassy vetiver in the dry-down. Good depth.
02nd June, 2017

Mojave Ghost by Byredo

This is a ghostly scent indeed -- there is hardly anything here! Extremely faint, somewhat sweet, no distinguishing notes. The little scent that wasn't there.
02nd June, 2017

A*Men Pure Wood by Thierry Mugler

Woody, dense, sweet. Unremarkable scent, rather generic. Coconut-like note in the dry-down. Cheap looking moulded plastic on the bottle.
02nd June, 2017

Epic Man by Amouage

A pleasant scent but not amazing. Good, peppery spices and herbal notes. Geranium rose is evident. Not heavy.
31st May, 2017

Replica Soul of the Forest by Martin Margiela

This is an interesting scent. Starts with a rather fruity blast from the blackcurrant buds. Something like a crisp green pear here as well. On the dry side. Hints of incense and forest floor.
It claims to be a "fruity chypre" and it is exactly that. Mild thumbs up, not bottle worthy for me but it is interesting and I am glad to see things in the "forest" style.
18th May, 2017

Bottega Veneta pour Homme Parfum by Bottega Profumiera

Too sweet and rich for me, but otherwise OK.
Creamy texture with sweet, languid spices. The creamy texture is like the most luxurious soap imaginable. Hint of fir in the dry-down.
18th May, 2017

Armani Code Colonia by Giorgio Armani

This is TERRIBLE! I was expecting a classy restrained Colonia (cologne) style scent -- lemon and herbs.
This is a god-awful melange of sugar and vanilla and very brash, loud synthetic notes.
Absolutely NO redeeming features.
18th May, 2017

Platinum Collection : Bergamot by Commodity

Quite a bright, citrusy bergamot. Clean and refreshing note. Hint of tea leaves. The patchouli and vetiver are very restrained. A pleasant scent, inoffensive and kind of sunny.
18th May, 2017

Platinum Collection : Vetiver by Commodity

Smoky, somewhat leathery vetiver. Hints of incense. A bit too sweet for my taste. A bit thin in construction. But, approachable and will appeal to a mainstream market.
18th May, 2017

Acqua di Parma Colonia Ebano by Acqua di Parma

Bergamot - check.
Elemi (green incense) - check.
Pepper - check.
Could be worse, but not my style.
Honey is a bit strong and sweet. Seems somewhat loud and brash. For an exclusive AdP I would expect something classier.
The dry-down is very in your face and would be unpleasant for more than 5 minutes.
25th April, 2017

Acqua di Parma Colonia Mirra by Acqua di Parma

WHAT a disappointment! Not an incense scent at all. A warm cookie gourmand scent, just the sort of thing I detest.
Very amber at the outset. Sweet and foody, with a warm bakery spice rack on display.
Smells a bit shrill and unpleasant.
Where is the citrus? Where is the myrrh?
After a raucous and discordant opening, it settles into a tamer spice aquatic blend that is quite uninspired.
25th April, 2017

Tsar Cologne by Van Cleef & Arpels

Not to be confused with versions earlier or later in dark green bottles. Apparently this was a limited edition and it is a bit different from the basic Tsar. I like it better.
This has an aromatic dry opening of lavender and pepper. It is quite peppery! The florals are definitely in the background. The scent has great longevity, and conveys a mood of casual elegance. Fir? Not a lot in this formulation, just hints from time to time. The dry-down is airy, dry, salty -- a well-balanced, old-school blend of moss and patchouli with a hint of leather. The moss note is commendable. It is green, aromatic, slightly soapy and coniferous -- not briny, rubbery or brackish (as some moss can be). The scent has great longevity on my skin. I enjoy its beginning and I like every aspect of it as it develops. It is crisp and formal enough to be a good daytime and work fragrance, projecting a quietly assertive confidence.
22nd April, 2017