Fragrance Reviews by scentsitivity

The idea of a house ‘geneology’ fascinates me: seeing the interrelationships of fragrances developed and whether the ideas of earlier fragrances influenced later development. For example, when I first tried Eau de Monsieur, I was struck by the prominent Eau d’Hadrien type citrus note, but also in its development with a sweetness that suggested Sables. My initial speculation (without referencing dates) is that Eau de Monsieur was created with Eau d’Hadrien and Sables in view. Not so! In fact, per the Basenotes directory Eau De Monsieur dates from 1980 and is the oldest Goutal creation. Eau d’Hadrien was released in 1981 and Sables came out in 1985. So my current thinking is that Eau de Monsieur is the parent of Eau d’Hadrien and perhaps suggested Sables as well.

Perhaps I should have described the fragrance first. Initially I get the same bitter citrus blast that Eau d’Hadrien provides. No, I do not like it. Then in the middle notes, a sweetness emerges on top of the tart (in my view harsh) citrus. At this point I find the fragrance to be interesting. At first, I could not pinpoint the sweetness, but looking at the review of Tania Sanchez in “Perfumes”, she makes note of immortelle and yes, that is what it reminds me of as well: the immortelle of Sables. At any rate, there is just a touch of this sweetness in Eau de Monsieur and the drydown becomes bitter again. While the midnotes are interesting, overall I dislike this fragrance.

I love the name, but that is about the only thing I like about this Trumper offering (I do think it comes in a pretty shade of blue as well). While I think it is trying to convey a modern, fresh scent, on my skin it smells musty. My guess is that I am anosmic to its musk ingredient. It is short-lived on my skin. I can’t recommend this one at all.

Citrus and wood notes dominate here, but the scent comes across as harsh and chemical. Eventually the harshness disappears, but it isn’t worth waiting for as what’s left is a rather dull woody undertone.

When one goes to the PdN website, the notes for Vetyver are listed as:

Top notes : Citrus : lemon petit grain oil, galbanum oil
Heart notes: Lightly aromatic woody vetiver
Bottom notes : Amber

The text in French below the listing talks about different things: cumin, vetiver and black pepper. And that is exactly what this scent seems to be about. It is a dirty, spicy vetiver and I really like it. It deserves more attention than it gets.

It is interesting that the Ormonde Jayne website classifies this as a chypre. There is nothing in the basenotes described that lends itself to a chypre accord (e.g., oakmoss, labdanum). Nor does it smell like a chypre. The opening strikes me as a pleasant citrusy-musk dominant blend. The citrus fades and woody notes emerge; the muskiness remains throughout the drydown. If aoud is one of the woods, I cannot discern it as such; there is none of the medicinal character that I have come to associate with aoud. One could consider this to be a well-blended fragrance, as one gets impressions of accords as opposed to notes. I find it to be quite pleasant smelling, a bit sweet, and not one that I would buy for myself.

I have now tried the three Creed offerings with ‘Santal’ as part of their name. Bois de Santal avoids the cloying sweetness of Original Santal. And it provides a greater potency than the weak Santal Imperial. What disappoints me here is a very clear civet note (which thankfully one other reviewer alludes to). For me this remains from application through much of the drydown. The civet does not enhance the experience for me; rather it mars the sandalwood. I find myself ambivalent to this one. On reflection, I think Creed’s Bois du Portugal is their best wood dominated offering.

Quite similar to Penhaligon’s English Fern, but smoother and in my judgment easier to wear. A good option for those who would like to look at clean scents from a different perspective than the typical modern-feeling clean scents.

I tried this based on name alone and on a first wearing it was rather disappointing. The opening struck me as plasticky and floral; I really didn't catch the lime or cedar and washed it off before I could develop a full impression of the drydown. Subsequently I went to Jo Malone's website and read that the designer's inspiration for Sweet Lime and Cedar was Thai cuisine. With that, I gave it another shot. Again, I found the opening to be plasticky and floral, but I could detect the lime and the heat and the suggestion of Thai cuisine was helpful. Now I would still say the opening was cluttered by florals. The lime stays a good while, the florals dissipate and I get the cedar clearly. At this point the scent matches what my olfactory imagination hoped for: a pleasant base with cedar, touched by lime still. So the opening gets a thumbs down, the base a thumbs up and I will score the fragrance overall with a neutral rating. Definitely not worth it to me to endure the opening, but perhaps it will work on others.

An additional observation: per the current Jo Malone web page, spearmint and nutmeg are not listed in the notes.

This one is a bit of enigma to me. I get contrasting bright and dark themes. Citrus, sweetness, woodiness. Yes, there is sandalwood in the background (and it smells like the profumum.it “Mysore Sandalwood”, which is my baseline for that note). But to me, Sandalsliver is as confusing on my skin as its name is to my ear. Perhaps I would appreciate it better on someone else.

Since no one has provided a fragrance pyramid, here are the notes, per the Jo Malone website:

Top notes: grapefruit, tangerine (citrus)
Heart notes: rosemary, mint, pimento, jasmine (aromatic, spicy, floral)
Base notes: vetiver, patchouli, tree moss (woody)

I find the grapefruit in the opening to be rather tame. I do get floral overtones right away. Then it becomes soapy. Anyway, I prefer bolder renditions of grapefruit than this offering.

I too am disappointed with this one. Lots of spice (cumin especially in the opening), some sourness, but amber? I really don't get it here. I find it to be rather uninteresting.

Also, I subsequently read that this has aoud. To me, it has none of the vitality that other Montale aoud offerings have.

One of the most unpleasant fragrances I have ever smelled, instantly nauseating to me whether on paper or skin. Zero stars on a scale of 1 to 5.

Updated from my 8 June 08 review, which provided an incorrect reference.

I am a bit surprised by how positively this has been reviewed here. Cinnamon-apples over a too sweet woody base. I do not like this.

For me, the opening combines zesty and sweet aspects of orange. At first, it felt very synthetic, reminding me of the smell of orange baby aspirin, but with subsequent wearings, that impression went away. I don't get a celery note, per se, and I am aware of that note in other scents (e.g., Bond no 9, Wall Street). I do get the impression of a measure of saltiness. I am not sure what that comes from. The notes, per Luckyscent are as follows:

bitter orange, mandarin, lemon, petitgrain, aromatic herbs, red thyme, rosemary, peppermint, everlasting flower [immortelle], cedarwood, white musk

I really don't tune into peppermint, immortelle or really much of anything herbal. I suppose my impression of saltiness (and others of celery) is from the herbal accords.

This is not my citrus of choice, but I don't think it is a bad scent at all. I am giving it a thumbs up.

I am surprised by the high percentage of positives on this one. While I do not loathe Santal Impérial (as I do Creed's Original Santal), there is not much to be excited about here. There is a decent dose of tonka in here coupled with a sandalwood note. The fragrance is extremely subtle and discreet, staying very close to the skin. I don't find it to be an unpleasant fragrance, just uninteresting. I give it a neutral rating on smell and would say that there are better sandalwood options at more reasonable prices.

The opening of Arabie strikes me as a dense, dark, date-laden dessert, spicy, but not especially sweet. The key words here are ‘dark’ and ‘date-laden’. This opening feels rather unwearable to me. However, as it develops the darkness fades and the date dominance recedes. Here it becomes quite pleasant smelling, a possibly wearable gourmand. Certainly not for me, but perhaps for someone else.

A clean green synthetic masculine that would normally get a neutral rating from me. The opening is a little over sweet. However, the dry down became unpleasant to the point that I had to wash it off. So it gets a thumbs down.

Green, floral, bright and musky. It comes across rather synthetic smelling, particularly in the green notes to me. I can’t say that it smells bad, but nothing I would purchase or wear myself.

I think this one is awful. On top, I get a metallic note, a noxema note and a sweet-nothing note. And then, just when it seems it can’t get any worse, the algae accord shows up! I don’t like this one at all! (It does feel like a more conventional (and dull) aquatic later in the drydown, but it isn't worth waiting for.)

I am not inclined to buy a Bay Rum scent for myself, but I do think this one is very nicely done: warm and loaded with cloves!

This is an odd one on me. I get two conflicting themes: a bright neroli and dense woody notes. Something smells burnt to me. Is it part of the wood notes? No one else mentions this. Regardless, that burnt smell is something I endure for the whole of the development (and yes, I get the patchouli and vanilla) and it spoils it for me. I think I am a bit of an oddball on this one, so I give it a neutral rating; perhaps it will smell wonderful on you!

If you are looking for a vetiver powerhouse out of the gate, then Vetiver de Java is not for you. The opening is elegant and herbal; doesn’t really project much, quite close to the skin. With time, the vetiver emerges. Again, it stays close to the skin. A slight rose note emerges on top of the vetiver and this is my favorite part. Then it all fades away. My primary problem with Vetiver de Java is how close it stays to the skin. It smells nice. I just wish it gave a bolder projection.

I just finished reading about the creation of this fragrance in Chandler Burr’s “The Perfect Scent”. The opening strikes me as different: unripe mango supported by grapefruit. The grapefruit reminds me of the 2009 Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, although it is in the background here. The drydown strikes me as dry and earthy and reminds me somewhat of the earthiness of the 2006 Terre d’Hermes. In fact, it doesn’t feel very much like a garden to me at this point. Longevity is not so good for me. I would be curious to smell this on someone else, but I won’t be buying it.

The brightest, juiciest lemon fragrance that I know. Nothing sweet, just lemon, supported by woods, primarily cedar, in the background. Fairly long lasting, but stays close to the skin. I perceive just a touch of dirtiness as well. While I think this is a super fragrance, it is not one I will buy for myself. It is too pricey in my opinion and I think I like a touch of sweet with my lemon as well. But if you are a serious lemon lover, you owe it to yourself to try Acqua Viva.

One additional comment: after writing this review, I tried Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien. To me, these are very different, particularly in the lemon note. Simply put, Acqua Viva is much brighter.
(Original review: 23 April 09).

A complex spicy opening with an ambery drydown. Sweet, but not excessively so and very pleasant for the duration. About 8 hours into my first wearing, I said to myself, “Is that patchouli I smell?” I looked up the notes, and yes, there is patchouli. The latter parts of the drydown remind me of Mazzolari’s Patchouli, a bit tempered compared to Mazzolari’s beast, and I am quite fond of it. Apply sparingly as this is quite potent.

Starts out with ripe tropical fruits and a touch of booziness. Generic woody drydown is a bit disappointing. Nothing I would wear, but inoffensive.

A warm, comforting and sensual take on opoponax. Sweet (but not excessively so) and resinous. Great longevity. And quite reasonably priced! I hope to buy bottle soon.

I find this leather chypre to be extremely sour and unpleasant smelling. Probably the least likable chypre I have tried to date.

Diptyque certainly makes some unconventional, push-the-envelope type scents. This is another one. Here we have a very sharp and harsh green opening. Eventually a dark rose emerges, but the harsh green doesn’t go away. I like the rose somewhat, but the green ruins it for me.

I originally gave this a neutral rating. Simply put, this cumin laden scent was intriguing to me. However, since that time, I now think of L'Autre as cumin run amuck. Just out of control excess. There are much better presentations of this note. Thumbs down. (Revised from 21 July 08).

This tuberose centered scent makes me feel sick. I do not like it. (Revised from 17 Sep 08).

It is time for me to revisit Terre d’Hermes; when I first reviewed it I had unresolved issues. Those issues are no longer present.

My feelings about Terre d’Hermes have been all over the map. That makes it unique among the fragrances I have tested. On my first wearing (2006), I hated it. All I remember is it was excessively peppery and I couldn’t wait to wash it off. Subsequently in 2007 I obtained a sample vial and gave it another try: and I absolutely loved it. This time I appreciated a potent grapefruit with a dry earthiness. I emptied the sample vial and wanted it for myself. So I bought a bottle.

But the magic disappeared. I don’t get the potent grapefruit anymore. Just an earthiness and a synthetic orange-like note. It is okay, but there is nothing special to me anymore. I have decided this isn’t for me.

Montale certainly picks some odd names for fragrances: there is Sliver Aoud, which most people seem to misread a Silver Aoud; there is Chocolate Greedy, which doesn't quite sound right in English and to keep this list short, there is Greyland. The mental picture Greyland gives me is of a barren, parched land; or perhaps where the space aliens from Area 51 go on vacation. The name does not sell itself to me! Okay, but how is the fragrance? The opening hits with an intense spicy mix of black pepper, a cumin like accord, and elemi. Indeed, two reviewers note elemi and I think it is the most pronounced note in Greyland. The cumin goes away, the black pepper tones down, but the elemi lasts a good long while. I don't really get sandalwood or leather accords. I think it is an okay scent, a bit intense, but nothing I would wear. And I certainly wouldn't call it Greyland! I give it a neutral rating.

What makes this lavender scent interesting is a potent peppermint note. While there are a fair number of fragrances that use mint, this is the first peppermint I have encountered. Here it blends very well with the lavender. The peppermint is very pleasant smelling and deflects from the sharpness of the lavender. Recommended, although there are certainly excellent lavenders at lower prices; just none that smell quite like this one.

A beautiful, realistic citrus opening, but quite short-lived. A touch of lavender, cedar and tonka underneath. A must try classic Eau de Cologne. I personally prefer Guerlain’s Eau de Cologne du Coq, as providing a little more complexity and longevity. But there is nothing wrong with this 1853 classic!

I stand with the minority of reviewers that dislike this Eau d’Hadrien. It is dominated by a rather harsh and unpleasant lemon note that I do not like at all (and I do enjoy quite a few lemon scents, ranging from Acqua di Parma Colonia to Eau Sauvage). I have tried it several times now and can’t get any enjoyment out of it; a definite thumbs down.

I am the first person to review this since the recent Anthology Release by Penhaligon’s. One obvious thing that has changed in the current formulation is the absence of base notes. Three of the four previous reviewers call attention to base notes (i.e., sandalwood, leather, musk). The current formulation has no base notes, and that is evident by the drydown (and Penhaligon’s website, as well). The Penhaligon’s website describes the opening as “shattered sherbet”; while I love the picture, this scent doesn’t reach to that point. What starts as a classy lime opening, turns to a neroli heart and then… nothing! I enjoy it for as long as it lasts. It is quite pricey for a traditional lime fragrance. I give it a neutral rating, as I think there are better values out there for this type of cologne. But if money is no object, please don’t let me discourage you!

A complex blend of incense, dry woods and spices. I like it!

I love the smell of libraries; not the smell of modern, suburban libraries where the oldest book to be found is twenty years old, but rather libraries with history and character filled with antiquarian books from the 19th century and before. Such libraries provide a unique, and for me quite satisfying, olfactory experience. There is a unique mustiness coupled with the smell of aging leathers that I just love. So I decided to try CB I Hate Perfumes offering, In The Library, in high hopes it would me a reasonable facsimile of the library smells I love. Alas, it was not. I get the shoe polish note, and a very sweet smell, perhaps slightly leathery, but to me it falls way short of anything I had hoped for. Libraries do not smell very sweet! I am not fond of this one at all.

Excessively sweet musk, a touch of berry, but little evidence of ginger. Definitely feminine, but not one that I would recommend.

I definitely get the salad dressing accord that others describe in Baime. It’s an herb-centered fragrance that I consider to be an acquired taste. Eventually it turns a bit sour on my skin. Perhaps it may work for someone else, but not for me.

A fruity-citrus opening with a mild woody, slightly sweet drydown. Not remarkable, but at its price point a good value for a younger man.

Bright, realistic grapefruit that is a pleasure to smell. Supported by a rhubarb note that compliments it well. Rose? Yes, it is there, but not in a prominent role. Perhaps it would be better called Eau de Pamplemousse or Eau de Pamplemousse Rhubarb. Regardless, very pleasant to wear. I get better than expected longevity, albeit close to the skin. Definitely has merit and one I will consider getting if I can get at a reasonable price.

While I have tried a fair number of scents with a neroli note, I think this is just the second one that could be considered "neroli centered". The other was Creed's Neroli Sauvage. I prefer Czech & Speake's offering. It is a very airy and bright: an uplifting neroli. Decent longevity. I think it would be especially nice on a lady. Definite thumbs up!

When I first heard of Eau de Vert I had high hopes. Just the Vert in the name is enough to make me interested. I am fond of three other "Verts": Hermes' Eau d'Orange Verte, Creed's Feuille Verte, and Miller Harris' Tangerine Vert. And then there was the description I read at the Miller Harris website. The notes were described as "mountain herbs, pine, lavender, juniper and artemisia, that are abundant in the South of France, mix with rose, geranium, moss, musk and vetiver"; again appealing to me. The website also said Eau de Vert was "inspired by the chic man with the slicked-back hair of the 1950's South of France" and that it was a "classic fougère". Again, I was fine with these descriptions.

Then I tried it (twice actually). It caught me off guard. The opening was not what I expected at all. I was expecting the opening to bring a bright herb/pine/green presence. Instead the opening accord was best articulated by the words "slicked-back hair" from the Miller Harris website. Not really the hair, but the "slicking agent": pomade or what I would call "hair grease". This was rather disappointing, as it was dense and heavy and did not convey at all what I was looking for from a Vert or the notes described. So it feels very barbershop to me. With time, other notes emerge. First, I detect deep green notes, with a bitter tinge. The bitterness subsides. The opening accord diminishes, but never really goes away. Mossiness emerges. At this stage, it is not too bad, but the opening ruined it for me. I am not saying this is an awful fragrance, just not at all what I expected. I am giving it a neutral rating, as it might be work for someone else.

Absolutely hideous to me. To me it smells like fruity licorice supported by a watery accord. I find it to be nauseatingly unpleasant with no redeeming qualities for the several hours I endured it!

First, a confession: I absolutely love Acqua di Parma Colonia. In reviewing Assoluta I could compare the two and somehow be disappointed in how Assoluta measures up to Colonia. I don't feel that would be fair though. Assoluta is a good fragrance. Colonia is to me a citrus, rose and herb centered cologne. Assoluta is centered on citrus and cedar. To me Assoluta has a warm character. I certainly feel that one could own both Colonia and Assoluta and enjoy each as sufficiently different fragrances. For me, I will be content with Colonia for now, but give Assoluta a definite thumbs up.

I get a spicy geranium dominating in the opening of Black Jeans. It reminds me of Penhaligon's English Fern at first. But then it veers in a different direction, with a potent vetiver taking over. I think the effect of the vetiver with the other spice notes may be giving the tar impression some are experiencing. It isn't quite tar to me, but there is something reminiscent of it. Eventually that quality disappears and one is lef with the vetiver by itself. Much later musky notes emerge, taking place of the vetiver.

I think the development in Black Jeans is interesting. It is not a fragrance I would ever buy for myself, but I think it is well done. Very masculine in my judgment.

I really like this one. Nice lavender opening, and I agree with mrclmind that there is a hint of civet that shows up briefly in the early development. Then a nice vanilla drydown. A bit sweet, but not excessively so. Very classy and "old school". Definite thumbs up!

This one focuses on three things: citrus, cocoa, and synthetic amber. Somehow mixing cocoa and citrus is not intuitive to me, but it is done in other fragrances as well and somehow it works. Pleasant smelling, but does strike me as original. Nor would I buy it for myself. So a neutral rating.

THis fragrance boasts three accords: air, water, and wood. I don't get the air accord. I do get watery notes with an intense vetiver (and less intense cedar). I don't like this. First, I am not fond of watery accords. Second, I find that the vetiver is a bit harsh. Third, I find the watery notes clash with the vetiver/wood accord. In short, I don't like this at all.

I find Agua Fresca to be a soapy, tart citrus scent. It isn't bad, but I am rather ambivalent toward it.

Wonderful execution. Aoud Damascus is my favorite rose presentation and my favorite Montale to date. The aoud is not as pronounced as in some other Montale creations, but I find it to be quite wearable. Many roses have a musty character. While it is realistic, it is not something I am fond of. Here the rose is bright and without mustiness.

When I first reviewed this I said that longevity was relatively short. That simply is not the case; I must have underapplied it in early wearings. I did buy a bottle and it is a definite keeper for me. Highly recommended.

(Revised from 9 June 08).

A very elegant citrus, focused on lemon and aromatic notes. It reminds me of Eau Sauvage which I believe emerged in same time frame.

I am originally from Rochester, New York and I remember the Lilac Festival every year at Highland Park. Somehow I was oblvious of this fragrance until now (23 years after leaving Rochester). Highland Lilac is an exceptionally realistic lilac soliflore, very potent (so apply sparingly!) and quite long lasting. Excellent scent option for a lady seeking a lilac fragrance.

A very realistic rose scent that I am happy to recommend!

A realistic lemon note dominates here, reminding me of Profumum's pricey Acqua Viva opening. Not quite as bright as Acqua Viva, but certainly more reasonably priced and very wearable. The drydown is different than Acqua Viva’s, with herbal notes dominating here. Decent longevity. More potent than either Eau du Coq or Imperiale by design. I don't see myself getting this, but it certainly worthy of consideration for lemon lovers or those looking for an updated interpretation of classic EdC construction.

I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed this Guerlain offering! Tart citrus in the opening, followed by herbs dominate this exhilarating, upbeat classic. An ideal scent for summer for those that prefer lighter fragrances. I prefer it to Guerlain’s earlier classic Eau de Cologne Imperiale, because it lasts longer and has greater complexity. I will definitely consider getting a bottle for myself.

As a note, patchouli isn’t one of my favorites. So I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed Mazzolari’s rendition of patchouli. I enjoy how it is blended with amber and honey, giving it a rich, sensual feeling. The balance between the amber and patchouli is key to making this work for me. On application, Patchouli projects with an intensity that I haven’t seen matched to date; no need to smell my wrist, I smell it everywhere around me. The patchouli cloud settles, but it lasts 15+ hours on my skin. I think this would work for both men and ladies.

In two words, I would call this a ‘salty vetiver’. The salty character comes from liveche (also known as lovage), a plant related to celery. To me, the saltiness reminds me of the effect of pickling, in this case a pickled vetiver. I dislike it. The salty overtones seem to diminish with time and it becomes bearable and more conventional. Still the opening ruins it for me.

Of the vetivers that I have tried to date, this one has the most radical development of all. What begins as a rather animalic vetiver eventually becomes sweet with a vanilla amber. The vanilla reminds me of the vanilla in Pi, but just a slight bit less sweet. All the while I get a touch of an animalic note in the background. I am not sure if I like how these notes clash.

So what do I think of Vetiver 46? I think it is interesting and I think it might smell great on someone else. For my personal use, I don’t really like the idea of a sweet vetiver, well, not this one at least. I might have liked it better if the development was more in line with the opening, but I am intrigued by what Vetiver 46 does.

This is a wonderful tropical citrus scent that feels both refreshing and natural. Regrettably after a few minutes I can only detect it with my nose planted on my wrist (that doesn't happen too often to me), and for this I give Bahiana a neutral rating.

Obsession for Men was one of the first fragrances I picked up when my interest in fragrance was first germinating. My bottle was a 0.5 oz mini, which I wore infrequently years ago, but at the time felt it was warm, spicy, classy and masculine. I put it aside for a long while. Since then I have tried numerous other CK fragrances. I have been disappointed with most of them and would reflect, "well, there is one good CK fragrance, Obsession for Men." And that is how I felt for years. I recently revisited my mini bottle and was disappointed. "Had it gone bad?", I wondered. So I got a current sample and have tested it twice. The results echoed my recent disappointment: how much my opinion has changed! No longer do I think of it as a warm, spicy fragrance, but rather as ultra-soapy, very much reminding me of dial soap (from 20+ years ago, I cannot speak of it any more) and a tad bit sour. Honestly, I think it is rather inferior stuff now and certainly can’t envision wearing it ever again.

Aromatic? Sure. Lime? Well, not the way I would ever want to smell it. This reminds me of a horrible caricature of Penhaligon's Douro. It is stuffy to start with and the dry down reminds me of stagnant water. Near the worst Montale's I have tried to date.

I wanted to like this one. Indeed, there is something classy to this aromatic oriental. But the first time I wore it I felt nauseous from it. No headache, just nausea. I put it aside for months and tried it again. Guess what? Same result. Something in Noir spoils it for me. Not sure precisely what it is, but at this point it isn't worth figuring out.

An incredibly realistic oak scent, with a touch of sweetness and a bit smoke. The only thing I dislike is for a short period I get a somewhat earthy tone that detracts from the oak effect. Long lasting and rather intense. I struggle with Chene: I love smelling it, but is it how I want to smell? I don’t think I will buy a bottle currently, but I certainly like it enough to give it a thumbs up.

This is a decent, reasonably priced leather fragrance. The opening is a bit sweeter than I like for a leather centered fragrance, but the dry down is quite pleasant, with smooth leather and ambery overtones.

Opus 1870 has a more modern feel to it than most of the fragrances I have tried from this house (e.g., Blenheim Bouquet, English Fern and Douro come to mind). It is about woods; primarily cedar, a bit smoky, a touch of spice. The opening has a bit of sweetness which diminishes in the development. A pleasant, classy masculine.

A fresh, bright green scent, with just a tad of dirtiness from the spices. I like the contrast and I think this is a “just right” dirty accord: too often they are loud and in the forefront; here it works behind the scenes. The base is musky, but the green lingers. Less interesting with time to me, but nothing bad to the drydown at all. The bottle is girly, but the scent is truly unisex – a guy could easily wear this in my judgment. (Was that supposed to be a secret?) The notes per the Nanaadebary website are as follows:

Top notes: bergamot, citron
Heart notes: basil, cardamom
Base notes: thyme, musk, vetiver

I won’t be buying it, but a definite thumbs up.

I had high expectations of PdN's New York, largely due to the frequent comparisons to Creed's Bois du Portugal. I own and really like BdP, but was wondering if New York might prove to be a better match for me. What I had hoped (and not by anyone's particular comment) is that New York would have a mellower opening than BdP, but match its drydown, which I find to be perfect. Or from another vantage point: I wish BdP had a less potent opening.

I would note that while the scents wear similarly, they are very different in constuction. The notes for New York are as follows:

Top: lemon, petitgrain, lavender, armoise
Heart: pepper, pimento, patcholi, cedar
Base: leather, amber, vanilla

The Nicolai website characterizes this scent as a "spicy oriental".

In BdP they are cedar, sandalwood, lavender and vetiver (there are certainly others, I don't see them listed at the Creed website though).

To me New York is a dense spicy scent, smooth, very classy and masculine and while one could never confuse it with BdP, there is a definite similarity. I would suggest the opening in New York is sweeter than BdP and the drydown is more centered on spices, compared to BdP which is more wood-centered.

Definitely a classy masculine worthy of consideration. I don't think I will be replacing my BdP with it, but it certainly is quite good.

I recently acquired a sample out of curiousity and applied it lightly to my skin in view of the strong negative feelings expressed many . I smell a potent iodine note with light sweetness in the background. Then a slightly sulfurous note emerges on top of the iodine. I did not like it at all. It gave me a headache and a slight bit of nausea. If I applied it liberally I suspect the ill effects would be amplified. One of the worst fragrances I have ever smelled.

It starts with a tolerable synthetic clean opening; not exciting but tolerable. However, the dry down does remind me of bug spray (as noted by another reviewer). Not that there is anything wrong with bug spray, but they don't make the stuff smell that way so people feel compelled to wear it just for fun. A co-worker gave me a rare negative comment: you smell YUCKY. That’s the final nail in the coffin: thumbs down for this.

The opening here instantly transported me to my great grandmother's house 35 years ago. This is a potent, spicy, dirty grapefruit scent. Different than anything I have tried to date and certainly interesting. I like how the_good_life characterizes Citrus Paradisi as having a "transparent dirtiness". That captures my feelings as well. A high quality scent, but one I don't expect to buy for myself.

Here is a good alternative for Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte (EdOV) wearers that find EdOV to be too ephemeral. No, the citrus opening is not identical; as the name implies the opening citrus note is distinctly tangerine. But it lasts a lot longer than EdOV. And the drydown is a more complex mossy green. It really isn't fair to compare Tangerine Vert to EdOV; afterall, Tangerine Vert is an EdP, while EdOV is EdC strength. For EdP strength, longevity is relatively short (less than 12 hours for me). Still, I find it to be rather satisfying and think it will be really enjoyable in warmer weather. Definitely unisex. Notes, per the Miller Harris are: Sicilian green tangerine, grapefruit, lemon, marjoram, geranium, orange, with a base of cedar, moss and sweet musk.

I think this is a nice feminine fragrance. Starts with citrus and floral notes. The citrus bows out and a nice cinnamon comes in. Eventually this is joined by vanilla, and yes, the creamy floral notes remain. A delicious smelling feminine!

It smells like a sweet, powdery, doughy confection to me. It feels elegant and a bit feminine. Not to my personal liking.

Unlike Creed’s Original Vetiver, which was for me an acquired taste, I liked the 1948 version instantly. It fresh and crisp, strongly supported by ginger and to a lesser extent cedar. Thus far, my favorite Vetiver fragrance (“high end vetiver ginger ale” if I may say so). I think it is one of the most underrated Creed fragrances. I tend to like ginger notes in fragrance and it is well integrated here. I realize a lot of people are less fond of ginger and if you are one of them, it may be best to look elsewhere.

I don’t like Albi. It is very dense on me and it reminded me of another scent I disliked – Mambo. I compared the notes and didn’t see any real similarity – was I crazy? Then I did a side by side test and Mambo did remind me of Albi, although they were certainly different and Mambo had a bit of fruitiness not in Albi. Anyway, Albi strikes me as a very heavy scent; I seem to find certain lavender presentations to be undesirable and Albi seems to be one of these.

I find the drydown to be pleasant with a woody character, but the citrus accord in the beginning is not my favorite. It feels rather generic and common to so many designer fragrances. Overall, an okay fragrance.

Tart, a bit soapy, fresh, somewhat floral. I don’t think this is bad, but the tartness doesn’t appeal to me.

I was surprised not to see any reviews of this one. Lyn Harris created Coeur d'Été during the early stages of her pregnancy. My understanding is she found it comforting when her sense of smell was heightened from being pregnant and many scents were less pleasant. Notes listed include white lilac, cassie, heliotrope, chocolate bean, banana and liquorice. The floral character is very evident but I am at a loss to detect any of the food notes, as such. This is a soft, delicate and very feminine floral. I get a fair amount of sweetness and a touch of earthiness in the drydown. But the thing this reminds me of is the smell of baby oil! This may work nicely for a lady. I think it is a bit monotonous, so I give it a neutral rating.

I like the Chaumet opening: grapefruit and fig, with a spicy kick. It settles down to a sweet, woody-ambery scent that I find pleasant, but less interesting than the opening.

I tested EdGF a couple of times, liked it enough and then bought it cheaply, but realize now I don’t like anything about it beyond the opening. The drydown on me feels rather generic, with a metallic and sweet character. Ultimately, I find it boring.

I’ve worn Endymion about 20 times thus far, but somehow I have never gotten around to reviewing it. Unlike most scents in my collection, I think of Endymion as primarily a nocturnal scent – I prefer to wear it at bed time. To me, it integrates sensual and introspective aspects, an unusual mix that comes together here. I suppose the thing that continues to strike me is the coffee note. Reviewer foetidus aptly describes it as a “deep brooding Mandeling-like note. A bit potent for an EdC, the opening can be a bit too sweet if overapplied. I also enjoy tempered presentation of the spice notes (e.g., nutmeg, pepper and sage) and the creamy character of the scent as whole.

A classy, but not stuffy, lemony citrus supported by herbs. I do get mossy tones in the base, but only one other reviewer notes them (oak moss is listed as a base note on my sample, though). Eau Sauvage make me think of Eau d’Orange Verte in formal attire.

A classic, elegant chypre, with a patchouli dominant heart and a mossy base with a hint of leather. I get a bit of tarragon in the opening, which makes it interesting. I don’t detect any civet at all. A well executed masculine worthy of consideration.

One reviewer has noted a “good tar soap” note; another a tar note. For me, those are very close to my experience. It reminds me of a pumice soap I used years ago (called Lava). At any rate, this is a clean scent, albeit a different type of clean. Not bad, but something I would go for. I get decent longevity out Grabazzi.

I don’t think I will ever get a “clean” scent for myself. But if I changed my mind, I certainly would consider Gendarme. It is a bit classier than the typical clean scent with a decent construction. Definitely inoffensive. One thing I smell is a touch of wintergreen in the background. Also, a watery note. I get better longevity than most of the reviewers here. I do get a smooth leather in the base; a bit subtle, but still there.

Virtually all of the "thumbs down" reviews see pi as excessively sweet. I count myself with them. While I enjoy many sweet fragrances, this one is overwhelmingly so: reminds me of desserts where sugar is the first ingredient listed. YUK! Not recommended.

A high quality vanilla and that seems to be just about it. Nothing wrong with it – in fact, I love it. Decent longevity. I think this would smell especially nice on a lady. I recommend it, but if you need complexity, consider something else.

I was hesitant to try Elegance, primarily because the only other Lacoste I have tried, Essential, was so very disappointing. Elegance is better though. What stands out here is how well blended the notes are; nothing really jumps out at you or dominates. Rather, there is a measure of subtlety. Take the mint for example. It is certainly there, but one has to think about it to notice it. I find the opening to be pleasant and sweet, with light citrus tones. I find after time Elegance becomes boring. Not bad, just loses my interest. So I give it a neutral rating.

I find this to be a warm and comforting scent. Yes, it is dated, but I like it for rare occasions (I could not wear it daily; and one must be careful not to apply too much as it would be too heavy and sweet). I agree with other reviewers who note opoponax as having a special place in this cologne. Notes are as follows: bergamot, verbena, basil, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, sage, opoponax, grey amber, musk.

This purports to be an aquatic and it does have an aquatic character. It also prominently features cardamom, which strikes me as a dead weight here (it isn’t my favorite note, but it certainly is blended effectively in numerous fragrances). At any rate, I don’t like this one.

This is the way I think a lime scent should smell. Indisputably masculine, fresh and indisputably lime opening, which softens and is supported by petitgrain. And while I get decent longevity from it, if you don’t should you be surprised? Remember, it is a cologne, not an EDP. Thumbs up from me!

Potent rose opening with aoud in the background, a deeper rose than in Aoud Damascus or Black Aoud. The development is a bit puzzling to me. This scent morphs into the fruity-spiciness of Royal Aoud, then back to more rose, more fruity/spicy – some odd oscillation (which I find to be intriguing; others may find it to be irritating). My interpretation is this is intended to be Montale’s feminine ‘royal’ counterpart to Royal Aoud. Thinking of it that way made me look at it more favorably (and I do feel both Queen Roses and Royal Aoud are easily wearable by both sexes). Not one I think I will ever buy (I would go for the Royal Aoud first), but still with merit.

Per the Floris website, the notes are different than previously listed, so I give them here:

Top notes: bergamot, lavender, neroli, nutmeg, orange, petitgrain
Heart notes: geranium, rose, ylang ylang
Base notes: cedarwood, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver

To me, No. 89 is a gentleman’s scent with a gentle floral heart. A slight bit of spice (nutmeg), a bit of powderiness and a clean floral character. I get a fruitiness that vaguely suggests peach. A delicate woody base that I adore. I think this is very well constructed. It takes a few wearings to fully appreciate this gem, so do give it a chance to grow on you. I am glad I did!

As noted by others, the opening is similar to that of Cartier’s Déclaration. What dominates here are coniferous notes and the presentation is classy, but there is something ‘dirty’ lurking in the background. Interesting and well done. Notes (per fragrantica.com website):

Top notes: rosemary, artemisia, coriander, galbanum and lemon
Middle notes: carnation, cypress, iris, cinnamon, lavender and jasmine
Base notes: sandalwood, fir, amber, patchouli, musk, coconut, vetiver, incense and cedar

I get two things here: hazelnuts and smokiness. It fades rather quickly on me. I find it to be unpleasant and unwearable.

I don’t like this one. I think it is stuffy. I get plenty overwhelmed by the tuberose, which ruins it for me.

There is a lot going on here: fruit, spice, incense lurking in the background, some sparkle, and a good dose of vanilla. It took several wearings to develop an appreciation for Acier Aluminium, as the warm spiciness contrasted with the ‘cool’ metallic note in the background (which I believe is from the incense that other reviewers have noted). I think it is a decent fragrance with a sensual character. Not one that I will buy for myself, but with definite merit and certainly unique.

Starts out with a competing blast of citrus and fir. The citrus fades and the fir remains. At this point if feels a lot like an air freshener and I ask myself do I want to endure this any longer? The fir then gives place to a slightly sweet lush green accord. At this point I actually like what I smell. So my feelings about Real are mixed; hence a neutral rating.

For me, four things dominate Yatagan: (1) a potent celery (or celery salt) note, (2) pine, (3) leather and (4) an animalic note (castoreum, I presume). Wearing Yatagan makes me think of rich stew of meat and vegetables, with some leather and pine needles thrown in for good measure! A powerful and unique masculine fragrance, but one I do not enjoy at all.

A well-executed sandalwood scent with a slight smoky character.

A decent scent, but very discreet. The ginger presentation is nicely done. I think as a whole this fragrance is too mild for my liking, hence a neutral rating. But worthy of consideration for those looking for a discreet masculine.

The synthetic fresh/citrus notes clash with the bitter/herbal/spice notes. So I feel this is a poor construction.

I find this to be a potent aoud coupled with a mixed floral. The floral aspects fail to captivate me at all and I would never reach for this if I have Aoud Damascus on the shelf (or Black Aoud or Royal Aoud, for that matter). It is an okay scent, but I think other Montale Aoud offerings are superior and more interesting.

This reminds me a bit of Penhaligon's Douro. (I am not comparing them side by side, but Iskander brought Douro to my memory). I like a lot about Iskander: it has a classy citrus opening, a large measure of warmth, and a chypre-like dry down. What I don't like about Iskander is how it stays so close to my skin that I literally have to put my nose on my wrist to enjoy it at all. Not near my wrist, on it. If I didn't allow for that, I would fail to note its presence at all, but for a minute or two. Again, a nice scent, but one I find impractical for myself. Hence, a neutral rating.

Most fragrances that I would label as fresh, I would unfortunately characterize as generic, synthetic and ultimately boring. Not so with 1828. 1828 is fresh, but I would also describe it as natural, sophisticated and unique. Early mint and eucalyptus dominate and one senses their presence throughout the development. The mint is nicely done; always felt, but not overbearing. Pepper and pine emerge in a subtle manner and in the base a touch of amber. I even received a nice compliment wearing 1828! Definitely worthy of consideration for those looking for a refreshing scent that has class.

Sables is unlike anything else I’ve tried and I give it credit for that. It starts out with a note suggestive of quality brandy and then on to the main feature: maple syrup over sand! It smells better than it sounds and unless you hate sweet scents, it is worth a try. Immortelle is a key note here and since trying Sables it is one I have looked for in other fragrances as well. Great longevity. I can’t see myself buying a bottle, but I could go for this perhaps 3 or 4 times a year.

First, this is certainly intended as a feminine, not unisex as it appears in the Basenotes directory. Per the By Kilian website, it was inspired by the marshmallow. By Kilian lists four groupings of notes:

I. Fresh notes: Bergamot calabria oil, Tunisian neroli oil
II. Spicy notes: pink pepper berries oil, coriander seeds oil
III. Floral notes: honeysuckle, orange flower absolute, orange water absolute, Egyptian jasmine absolute, Bulgarian rose concrete, Bulgarian rose oil, iris butter absolute
IV. Amber notes: reconstituted civet oil, caramelized sugar, vanilla absolute, cist labdanum absolute, white musk

This is a very sweet, sugary floral. At first a bit dense, but it lightens up and is rather vibrant and playful. Neroli and jasmine dominate in the early development. Floral elements fade gradually and a sugary vanilla base, heightened by civet and musk emerges. A very nice feminine for a vibrant lady. Quite expensive, so certainly test before purchasing.

Rather synthetic citrus, with some spiciness, woods and musk. Normally I would give something like this a neutral rating as being an unremarkable modern scent, but the citrus presentation is inferior to most and annoying.

Very sweet and powdery, it reminds me of vanilla cake batter (with some lavender thrown in and a touch of anise). I don’t think it is as bad as most reviewers (I think I am more forgiving when a fragrance suggests dessert to my nose), but it is certainly not my preference when it comes to lavender.

Since no one has listed the notes for Boss Pure, I will start by giving them (derived from the Boss fragrances website):

Top notes: fig water, Mediterranean citrus
Heart notes: lily, hyacinth
Base notes: massola wood, tree moss

I dislike the opening. It has citric tartness, but nothing that helps one discern what type of fruit it is. While I love citrus fruits, I find mere tartness in fragrance to be boring. This is coupled with a watery note, which I find equally unappealing. In the drydown, the tartness disappears and Pure becomes smooth and woody. Throughout it remains unremarkable.

I give it a neutral rating, as I would classify Pure as an inoffensive, fresh, clean scent.

As of this writing, there are 59 fragrances in the basenotes directory with “pure” as part of their name!

Is there aoud in Montale Attar? I really don’t know for certain. While I get the medicinal character of aoud in the opening, which reminds me of Black Aoud, I get none of the “aoud magic” that follows in all the Montale Aoud’s I have tried to date: Black Aoud, Royal Aoud, Steam Aoud and Aoud Damascus. And Montale does not list aoud as a note (and it certainly is a note that no manufacturer would want to gloss over if it is there! It is too costly not to boast about!) At any rate, this reminds me of a Black Aoud in the opening, later in development a simple rose dominated scent, supported by sandalwood. Certainly acceptable, but not especially remarkable: I see it as an unnecessary addition if one owns Black Aoud. Indeed, if I had both, the Montale Attar would never be worn.

I REALLY LIKE this one! Warm, heavy, very sensual with decent sillage and great longevity. Two notes dominate Musc Ravgeur: cinnamon and clove. Cloves are something I have avoided in fragrance since I tried Kouros – which I did not like and I associated my dislike with its clove presentation. MR has readjusted my thinking about clove: it works really well with the cinnamon. I don’t get much of the bergamot/lavender opening: it seems to get overwhelmed quickly by the heart notes. Nice base of vanilla, supported by wood and musk notes. I can't say that the cinnamon and clove ever really makes a full exit. A special scent for special occasions. Recommended!

I agree with the other reviewers to date: this is a decent fragrance! Fresh, aromatic, masculine and sensual. Definitely better than most fragrances that I would label as fresh (then again, it brings more to the table than mere freshness). Leathery base (we would hope so, being from Everlast!). Decent sillage and longevity. Worthy of consideration and relatively inexpensive.

On my first use, I felt this had promise. However, subsequent wearings were unpleasant for me: I find it to be monotonous a bit too sweet. The notes listed in the directory are incomplete, so I provide those listed at the Floris website.

Top notes: bergamot, black pepper, cardamom, green grass, lemon
Heart notes: clove bud, lavender, nutmeg
Base notes: amber, cedarwood, frankincense, musk, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver

I acquired from Lutens their set of wax samples, which I have tested from time to time. Chergui was one that I enjoyed and it struck me as smooth, sensual and sophisticated with a well-rounded tobacco note. So when opportunity came to purchase a bottle I did so. Unfortunately, in the liquid fragrance the tobacco was more potent, a tad bitter and clashed with the smoothness around it. I learned a valuable lesson for myself: don’t buy a Lutens on the basis of a wax sample. Test the actual liquid before buying.

Some might think this is like other sporty fragrances; and to a degree it is. But it is worse than most, being ultra-synthetic and downright unpleasant and annoying. My negative review makes for the seventh in a row!

In two words I would call it ‘herbal amber’. Interesting scent in that while most ambers I have tried are fairly sweet, in Ambre 114 (as it is now called) the sweetness is very subdued. Herbal elements, particularly thyme and nutmeg, work with the amber and tone down any sweetness to it. This makes for an interesting accord. In the base, one gets mild sweetness as vanilla becomes detectable, but it is still less than most all amber fragrances I have tried to date. I do not see myself buying this one, but it is definitely worthy of consideration.

As of this writing there are 47 reviews of BpH, two of which give some notice of an important fact: BpH is a chypre. That is a fundamental point to consider when contemplating BpH. For me the opening is a bit dense, but thoroughly masculine. About an hour into wearing it, it turns sour and I find it unpleasant. However, after a time the sourness dissipates and the last several hours are simply wonderful: the heaviness of the opening is gone, and the masculine character remains. Aromatic throughout. For me, it is a bit of a roller coaster ride, so I can’t give it a thumbs up. But it is worthy of consideration, hence my neutral rating.

A well-executed vetiver fragrance with a smoky and woody character. Not for me, but definitely to be considered by serious vetiver lovers. I see it as better suited for a man.

Fahrenheit provides a good example of why one cannot take house spin too seriously. For example, the Fahrenheit notes listed at the Dior website are given as:

Top: Howthorn, Honeysuckle
Middle: Sandalwood
Base: Cedar, Patchouli

Yet the carded sample I have tells a different story. It labels it as a ‘woody leather’ (a description that matches that of Luca Turin in the book “Perfumes”), with notes of tangerine, cedar wood and leather. At least there is one note that matches. Further, the Dior website describes Fahrenheit as a “virile, delicate and rounded fragrance." While I could concede virile and rounded, I fail to see anything delicate at work here.

As to the fragrance itself: the opening strikes me as the smell of gasoline. This quickly transitions to a motor oil smell that lasts a good deal longer. Then a muddied mix of wood and leather emerge. I love the smell of gasoline, but not on me. I don’t like the smell of motor oil. The base of Fahrenheit is okay, but not worth the wait.

I see a strong similarity to Azzaro Chrome here. Decent construction, summery character, but doesn’t break any new ground.

Another ultra-clean scent! Unlike most of this sort, it comes with a price tag: as of this writing, $148 (US) for 30 mls. The Nasomatto website says it “aims to evoke superhero magnetism.” Who writes this stuff? Not recommended.

I think of sorbets as intensely fruity and sweet. So I was surprised to find Etro's Lemon Sorbet to lack sweetness. However, I still think it is a good scent. On initial application there is a blast of fresh carrot, which diminishes quickly and the lemon shows through. I like the lemon because it doesn't have that "furniture polish" feel. Rather it is a bold, fresh unsweetened lemon, with a touch of earthiness in the background. With the heart an herbal character emerges, with rosemary dominating. Eventually vetiver comes through. All the while you can get a touch of the lemon. I get 6 decent hours out of this EdC. I like this one, but not enough to buy it.

Notes, per the Etro website are:

Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Petitgrain (Citrus)
Heart: Lavender, Rosemary (Spicy)
Base: Sandalwood, Vetiver (Woody)

If you like intense sweet amber, this is a good choice. Honestly, at first I did not like it, it seemed too potent, but it grew on me: I couldn't stop sniffing my wrist. The key is to apply lightly. A little goes a long way: I get 12+ hours from a single application. Too much and it's a monster.

Strikes me as rather loud, harsh and synthetic. Nothing I would want to wear or smell.

Mambo for Men is a confused concoction, with watery, sweet and woody notes bumping into each other. I think the worst part of it is that I get an unpleasant burnt smell that begins soon after the opening lasts for a good while. The basenotes are pleasant woods and musk; not especially remarkable, but pleasant... still not worth waiting for.

I wore Antidote several times and while I liked it, I was puzzled by this dense, complex fragrance. I certainly didn't feel capable of commenting on it. Then I smelled it on someone else, my youngest son (who loves it, I might add), was thoroughly impressed and most importantly it helped me develop a framework. I would characterize it as heavy, with a harsh edge, strongly masculine, sweet and having a barbershop character. Luca Turin, in the book "Perfumes: The Guide" uses the term "mutant lavender" to describe Antidote. He is focusing on one of the prominent synthetic armomachemicals, sclarene, which provides a long-lasting, airy, lavender-like scent. Turin critiques the use of sclarene here, because it doesn't match the heaviness of the scent (at least that is my interpretation of his comment). And I do agree in part. There are clashing elements in Antidote. For me, I find them puzzling to comprehend easily, but still I find Antidote to be enjoyable and stimulating. So I give it a thumbs up. I have a mini bottle and I am sure it will be adequate for infrequent use in the years to come.

It is interesting to see the clashing opinons on Ungaro III. A decent number of reviewers see this as dark or gothic. A lesser number characterize it in an opposite manner: light and bright. So what was the "creator's intent"? At the Ungaro website, I find the following description: "A fresh, light and sensual fragrance characterized by a woody spicy aromatic note." This is closer to my experience. Except I don't see it as especially sensual. No one has posted the notes, so here they are:

Head notes: Pepper, lemon, orange (warm and spicy)
Middle notes: Geranium, patchouli (warm sensation)
Base notes: Vetiver, sandalwood (woody and sensual)

It is interesting how many notes not given are perceived. And how others listed are not.

One should note similarities with Ungaro II. Both have the following notes in common: lemon, orange, geranium, patchouli and sandalwood. And when one smells Ungaro II and Ungaro III, it is obvious that they are "brothers". I do consider Ungaro II to be the more sensual of the two.

One thing I note in Ungaro III is not just the olfactory experience, but there is a sensation on the skin. Sometimes it is warm, other times cool. It is reminiscent of menthol or similar compounds. When I smell my skin, I get a cool sensation in my nostrils as well. I would characterize Ungaro III as bright and clean with an herbal/spicy character. The wood shows up later, but dimly. I think it is an okay scent, decent construction, but not exciting to me. I wish it were as sensual as advertised.

I have tried Ténéré several times and found it to be different and intriguing. I took some time to ponder, as it has a unique character. The opening is a bit cluttered and dense. Eventually honey and rose emerge as prominent notes. I detect a tinge of tarragon. Leather is in the background, but emerges later on as more pronounced. There is a lot of complexity at all stages, but the latter stages have less clutter than in the opening: I prefer the heart and base. Since no one has listed the notes, I provide them here:

TOP NOTES: Bergamot, Cassia, Grapefruit, Green Note, Lavender, Lemon, Rosemary
HEART NOTES: Anise, Artemisia, Carnation, Cinnamon, Honey, Jasmin, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Rose, Tarragon
BASE NOTES: Amber, Cedar, Leather, Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver

Ténéré is no longer in production and that is regrettable, as it is a decent scent. Good sillage and longevity.

I agree with others that opening is reminiscent of Mugler Cologne, but it is weaker. Beyond that, an unremarkable clean scent that doesn't leave a lasting impression, but hardly offensive.

Strikes me as an inferior imitation of Creed’s Silver Mountain Water (which I enjoy). I notice a glue-like note in the opening. Bond no. 9 has better offerings than this.

Bulgari’s website lists five notes here: mandarin, petitgrain, santolina, posidonia, and mineral amber. The opening is drenchingly oceanic: no beach here. One feels 100 miles from land in all directions and 100 feet below the surface. I find it to be interesting, but not appealing. The oceanic element diminishes, but never departs as an herbal character emerges. It seems rather incongruous to me. Perhaps it will work for others, but it isn’t for me.

The Miller Harris website describes Citron Citron as " a blend of all the citrus notes plus mint leaf, basil and marjoram. It is made up of contrasting notes of citrus with spices such as cardamom, cumin and some cedar." So, comparing this to the pyramid presented here we see the addition of marjoram and cumin and no indication of oakmoss.

I am very impressed with Citron Citron. The first wearing intrigued me more than anything and subsequent wearings have been learning experiences. First, the opening citrus accord is very bright and pristine. Soon after the mint and spices emerge on top of the citrus. It brings to mind Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet (vaguely, not suggesting it is a copy or anything of the sort), but is more inviting. One thing that intrigued me was how different aspects of the accord were discernable depending on how I smelled it (whether passively or deeply). Later in the development, I barely detect the cardamom (which is fine) and don't detect any cumin. I give it a high recommendation and hope to test other Lyn Harris creations in the future.

Nothing I have tried by Diptyque can be considered a conventional fragrance Every scent pushes the envelope (and in a different direction) and Oyédo is no exception. To me the opening smells like grape soda. Grape soda has an artificial grape smell to it, but somehow it draws me in. I think others have likened it to Japanese muscat candies (which I have never smelled). The next thing that hits me is lime with undertones of thyme. Lime dominates the rest of the development after the grape fades away. It is intense and biting, but somehow it feels comfortable and captivating. Somehow I feel I should be hating this scent, but instead I am liking it a lot. Finally I get some faint smoky undertones.

Will I buy Oyédo? No; I can't see wearing it,except on a rare day when I feel a tad crazy. I don't know for whom it is best suited. Perhaps a sharp, mature teenage girl: I can picture that. Regardless, I think Oyédo is interesting and well-done, even if a bit odd and for that I commend it!

Early development of Z can be considered cool and crisp. I get soapy and peppery aspects as well. But the dominant aspect to my nose is a citric tartness. The tartness suggests citrus, but not any specific fruit: rather a generic tartness. Eventually soapy and peppery aspects die out and what remains is the tartness. Tartness by itself feels cold and sterile, nothing that I really want in a fragrance. I don't think it to be hideous, just not for me. Hence a neutral rating.

Here are the fragrance type and notes, per the Lauder website:

Fragrance Type: Prismatic Wood

Top Notes: Fresh and tangy, with Eden's Mist, Jabuticaba Fruit and Eden Buchu

Middle Notes: Cool, invigorating, energetic with Mediterranean Accord, a blend of Lavender Absolute, Provence Sage, Tarragon and Thyme

Base Notes: Unfolds a masculine sensuality with Golden Melaleuca Bark, Eden Vetiver, Beach Wood, Oak Moss and Patchouli

A few opening comments.

First, I wish fragrance manufacturers would NOT make up bogus fragrance types to sound unique and different. What is a prismatic wood? Is it because the bottle looks like a bit like a prism and scent has wood notes in the base? To me, it is a meaningless label. If I were to label it, I would call it "fruity-woody" or "tropical fruity-woody".

Second, the one thing that struck me on the sample packet I have is the number of synthetic ingredients. Now, I have no problem with the idea of synthetic aromachemicals. They serve a purpose. Typically, on a fragrance container I will see somewhere between 8 and 12 of them. This one had 21 (can't say they are all aromachemicals for sure, but 21 chemical ingredients after 'parfum').

Third, I see some interesting notes here. I try to be literate about fruits, but I had never heard of a fruit called Jabuticaba. I researched it and found out it is a grape like fruit from Brazil that has anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic compounds. Neat. Sorry for the educational aside, but I can't tell you what one smells like, though.

As to the scent itself: two things strike me here: (1) tropical fruits and (2) woody notes. There is a watery undercurrent here. It is an okay fragrance in terms of smell, but it one I neither love nor hate. They could have done a few stupid things here like make it sweeter or drench it with coconut to make it more tropical. I am glad they did neither. I am surprised it is so polarizing here, with currently an equally large number of thumbs ups and thumbs down reviews (11 apiece). For me, it a scent I feel rather ambivalent about, hence a neutral rating.

For a while, I avoided Chrome, simply because I thought (wrongly) that this was an intensely metallic scent. To me, it isn't that. There is a fresh, clean element, but what dominates is a spiciness - doubtless interpreted by most people as metallic. To me it is almost herbal quality, reminding me to some degree of Italian seasonings. Sometimes within the spiciness, I detect something else: a damp, almost musty smell that I really don't like. It doesn't grab me often, but I don't like it when it does. Chrome has a measure of complexity and that aspect I admire. It isn't for me, but it merits consdieration.

To me, two things stand out here: fruitiness in the opening and leather later on. Yes, it is complex and yes there is development. And it is not like everything out there. It reminds me somewhat of a toned-down version of Creed's Royal Delight: a sweet leathery fragrance. My mother comlimented me on it and my son told me from the distance it smelled AWFUL to him: like vomit. Well, I don't think that. I suppose I prefer "Russian Leather" to this style, so I give it a neutral rating.

I find two contrasting themes in the opening. Fougère fern-like spiciness dominates the opening, but marine elements lurk in the background. To me, I want the spiciness to move aside so I can get a better grasp of the marine notes. They do diminish and when that happens they reveal one of the most interesting marine accords I have smelled, hinted with musk and very well done (most marine accords are so-so to me, but not the one here in Fougères Marines). Recommended.

Sometimes I think Montale can put Aoud in anything and VOILA! it will work magic. Aoud *seems* to be able to make anything it surrounds exciting. That probably is not accurate, but I seem to find all of these Montale Aouds to be intoxicating.

Now Royal Aoud was the fourth or fifth Montale Aoud that I have tried. The above observation is not really a reflection on this scent in particular, but rather a cumulative observation. This one is smoother than some, fruity, with rose and spices too. I find it delightful and intoxicating, but not as intense as others. Probably not my favorite in the line and one that I will pass on for now, but excellent nevertheless.

The notes in Driven are as follows (per the Avon website):

Chilled grapefruit, black pepper, iced lavender, american spearmint, aquatic bamboo and oakmoss

I am surprised no one has reviewed this to date. Anyway, it is spicy-aquatic blend, rather generic and inoffensive. Nothing special here.

As noted by many other reviewers, this is similar to Creed's Original Vetiver. Or more precisely Creed's OV is similar to Mugler Cologne in that Mugler predates it by 3 years. The olfactory experience is nearly identical (both are clean and soapy), but I would say that I get a slight sourness in the Mugler development that I don't get in OV. It doesn't bother me especially. Mugler also doesn't last as long. I would say that I perfer OV. I like both, am inclined to get neither, but if I were to get one of the two it would be OV.

One modification to the notes listed here at Basenotes. The Peter Thomas Roth website lists the top notes not as merely "citrus", but intstead as "Wet Brillant Accord of Citrus Aromas." Well, to my nose the opening doesn't show any citrus brilliance and of any scent that has boasted of citrus, the presentation here is poor. What I get is a "burnt spice accord", possibly some cardamom and any citrus is lurking in the background. After several hours, I get a slightly sour spiciness, the burnt character having dissipated. I don't consider this to be generic or like everything else I have tried. It, in spite of its generic name, seems to be a unique fragrance. But I don't find it to be pleasant and it is not one that I like on myself at all.

Citrus opening, followed by a bitter orange-musk base. Vaguely reminds me of Penhaligon’s Douro. It is shorter lived than Douro and the dry down of Eau de Portugal seems a bit stuffy to me.

Some reviewers have described this as dry. Here is my impression: standing in a sauna and pouring water on the heated rocks. Steam rises in this dry place. That is what I get out of Steam Aoud. I get the sauna impression (not the woods, but the heat and the steam), doubtless resulting from the aggar motta oil mingled with aoud and other spices. I really like this for about 6 hours, until the aoud dies off and what remains are the other spices, leaving a relatively dull, but long lasting impression, that doesn’t do much for me – either need to refresh or wash it off. What it does for 6 hours is great though and I am quite fond of it. I give it high marks. I should add that unlike black aoud, I don’t get the medicinal opening.

The thing that first impresses me about Geir is not the smell, but rather its effect on me. Whenever I first apply Geir, I get a similar result: a sense of extreme exhilaration, similar to what I feel on the first warm spring day when the air is fragrant and winter seems to have lost its grip on nature. It is a wonderful feeling and if Geir did nothing further, it would be enough. (I am not suggesting that Geir smells exactly like a spring day, just that it affects me like one. Nor would I suggest that it is my favorite opening in olfactory terms.)

As to the scent, it is green and woody. It possesses a measure of elegance and gentleness. Very nice. I think it is best to apply lightly, as it can be too sweet if heavy. The 15 ml bottle I have is a splash bottle with a relatively wide neck and I wish it were narrower. I enjoy it in warmer weather.

The notes that strike me as dominant here are cypress coupled with violet. It is crisp, green and a little sweeter than I would like. I detect a bitter note in the opening that offsets the sweetness, but it really detracts from the scent. The bitterness goes away, the green remains. No real projection here; it stays close to the skin. I can’t really get offended by something I have to work at smelling (not usually at least). After a few hours, musk emerges and it is pleasant, but again no real projection. So-so at best.

Not wearable, but a faithful representation.

The opening is a bit more intense and dense than ginger ale (or ginger beer for that matter), but it settles to a fairly decent representation of ginger ale. A tad musty though. I would be more refreshed drinking ginger ale than by wearing this scent.

Reminds me a lot of the smell of Coast soap (which I used on occasion years ago). Citrus on top, woods beneath, but overall rather generic, clean aquatic type scent. Nothing remarkable here and a bit boring.

Interestingly, I see that Luca Turin in the book "Perfumes" states that this is "probably the worst masculine in production today."

Green Valley (GV) instantly reminded me of both Green Irish Tweed (GIT) and Silver Mountain Water (SMW). But GV puzzled me for a long time; unlike SMW which I like and GIT which I think is okay, but unexciting, I did not like GV. I could not put my finger on it and it took me about 8 distinct applications to get to a point of understanding why I don’t like GV.

First, I would note why GV reminds me of GIT and SMW: both GIT and GV have notes of violet leaves and sandalwood and GV and SMW both have notes of blackcurrant and musk. If one thinks of notes as analogous to genes in living things, one could see GIT and SMW as olfactory “parents” (or ancestors) of GV. Note that GIT hit the market in 1985 and SMW in 1995. GV arrived in 1999. In my judgment, GV was created with SMW and GIT in view and key elements (notes) from both were mingled in the creation of GV.

With that background, I would say that the two dominant notes in GV are violet leaves and blackcurrant. Blackcurrant has a luminous (or amplifying) affect on other notes. I think it works wonderfully on the tea in SMW. However, in GV it tweaks the violet leaves to an extreme, making that note overbearing to me. I guess I could have said it was unpleasant after a couple of wearings, but it seemed to be begging me to be able to say WHY? So I feel that I learned something in the process and am better attuned than I was before. And for that alone I appreciate GV! I give it a negative rating, but would not discourage someone from trying it for themselves.

Certainly “different smelling”: a blend of iodine, sandalwood, spices and musk. But different is not pleasant (iodine seems to be central here) in this case and of the Montale fragrances I have tried to date, this one is the least pleasant of them all. I would not want to smell this on anyone. As of this writing, a "perfect" record - 5 out of 5 thumbs down!

Most scents that go by ‘fresh’ are difficult to love or hate – they smell inoffensive, but they possess a generic character that is hard to get excited about either. Dunhill Fresh falls in this category and while I find it to be slightly more interesting to my nose than average, it has below average longevity.

Penhaligon’s website declares that Artemisia is the ‘aromatic partner to Endymion’ and I would agree. They both are sensual and creamy fragrances, built on different notes, Endymion with a more masculine character and Artemisia the feminine. I must say that I am impressed with Artemisia and wished it were more popular than it seems to be. It has nice floral and fruity elements and what especially appeals to me is how well executed the nectarine is in the opening – very nice! I think it is a good one for a lady. For reference, here are the notes per Penhaligon’s website:

Head Notes: Nectarine and Green Foliage
Heart Notes: Green Apple, Lily of the Valley, Jasmine Tea, Violet and Vanilla
Base Notes: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber and Vanilla

It is interesting to me that several reviewers view Wall Street as similar to a Creed, but there is no consensus view on which one: Erolfa, Millesime Imperial and even Silver Mountain Water. To me, it is most similar to Erolfa, but as a caricature of it. The opening has a salty oceanic character and that is somewhat similar to Erolfa, but unlike Erolfa I find it to be harsh and devoid of any sweetness. The saltiness of sea kale coupled with cucumber reminds me of celery. Since I try to find something distinctly ‘New York’ in Bond no. 9 fragrance (and usually I cannot do so), what comes to mind here is the celery soft drink that is served in New York delis (or at least that is the impression the labels on cans of Cel-Ray soda gave me). At any rate, I find the opening to be harsh and unpleasant. After a long wait (hours), some sweet fruitiness emerges, but this feels rather weak, synthetic and totally related to the early development. I am unimpressed.

As of this writing, there are 10 fragrances in the basenotes directory with Verte as part of their name. I’ve tried four of them so far and I inferred there would be a bunch more, since the word ‘verte’ was not the basis for trying them. Creed’s UK website characterizes Sélection Verte as a “fresh, sophisticated citrus fragrance with light, clean notes of mandarin, lemon and bergamot combined with peppery mint and sweet pea.” I am not especially fond of prominent mint in fragrance and here it is a dominant note. It is fresh, cool, quite potent and I think well-executed. Eventually the mint loses its dominance and the sweet pea comes out; mint remains but in a subtle role. It is at this stage that I am most impressed with the fragrance – the drydown is something to look forward to. I get about 6 hours out of it altogether, a little less than I would like, but not bad.

I think Sélection Verte is a good choice for a mint lover. I think if you are looking for citrus-dominance, go elsewhere – here mint rules. But it feels fresh, clean, lively and very natural, so I give it good marks.

This reminded me a lot of cK one Scene (less the ginger), although they share but two notes (mandarin and amber wood, per the scent pyramid). At any rate, Calvin Klein Man while fresh, clean and inoffensive, Man does not have the depth (or duration) of cK one Scene. In a word, unremarkable.

Baie de Genièvre (BdG) opens on me as a battle between two notes: juniper berry and cinnamon leaves. They fade in and out; sometimes the cinnamon dominates, then the juniper, back and forth. Sometimes they are superimposed upon each other and when they do I get the impression of an animalic accord: or as my son described it to me, “body odor”. It is interesting to me that only one other reviewer noted anything animalic. As the battle progresses, the juniper eventually wins. Quirky and different, yet simple - a Creed that pushes the envelope! I get decent longevity out of this, a non-millesime Creed.

While I like BdG quite a bit, it isn’t something I would wear frequently. Indeed, I think I would wear it just a few days a year. It would be nice if it came in 15 ml ‘mini’ bottles or at most an ounce.

I also feel passionate and romantic every time I wear BdG: it puts me in the mood! And even though I don't consider BdG to be feminine, per se, I think I would enjoy smelling it on a woman.

One word of caution: I have bought both samples and a bottle of this that were not at their freshest. Each of the notes has greater weight in this relative simple fragrance, so the degradation was pronounced. Make sure you are getting fresh BdG should you choose to buy it.

My expectations weren’t high (mostly due to the packaging aimed at early 20-somethings), but I like this one. The opening initially reminds me of other Calvin Klein openings and I immediately get concerned that this is heading somewhere that I don’t like. However, very quickly the ginger comes through and it is in the dominant feature of this scent. It is a nice presentation of ginger, a bit mellow. It is complimented by woods and amber, clean and a bit sweet. Not bad.

Since no one has given a list of notes for this, I will do so, per Sephora: Honey Flower, Solar Musk, Orange Blossom, Osmanthus, Amberlyn, Vanilla, Tactile Musk, Tactile Woods, Vetiver. Regrettably, I am in the minority who feels sickened by the smell of this perfume. So I can’t recommend it.

I was surprised to find no one else has reviewed the most recent incarnation of Zen. Before getting to the fragrance, I would note the hype from Shiseido’s USA website (link: http://www.sca.shiseido.com/catalog/index.cfm?brand=15), which tells us that it is “scientifically created to produce calming brain wave patterns that occur during Zen meditation” and categorizes it as a “Floral Spiritual Woody” (one of the craziest classifications I have ever heard of). I would like to see test data on the brain wave patterns. For myself, I can say that I felt a greater than typical level of anxiety while testing Zen, and no, I do not blame Zen for it! I do find this type of marketing to be a turn off.

To the fragrance itself, it boasts ingredients including “water hyacinth, gentian, Eastern moss, bamboo, violet, iris and Asian Kyara wood,” doubtless to convey its oriental roots. Instead of thinking of it as a “floral spiritual woody”, I would characterize it as a “light floral woody”, very feminine and pleasant. If you like light floral scents, Zen may work for you. I think it is a decent fragrance for a lady.

Creed’s website describes Millésime Impérial as “exotic wood and musk notes are enlivened with a refreshing marine note.” I find a dominant melon-aquatic accord, quite radiant and uplifting. Far more interesting than most aquatic scents. I used to complain about longevity with this one, but not anymore. I get many hours out of it. My one complaint would be that it seems to be fickle in how it presents itself. Sometimes it feels very rich, other times it seems lighter.

Erolfa is a summer favorite of mine. When I take the cap off the bottle, I detect a soapiness, but that never is present on my skin. It is oceanic, salty and citrusy and suggests hot summer days at the beach, saltiness in the air. The dominant citrus is tangerine and it is the best smelling tangerine in fragrance that I know of. The base is the typical Creed ambergris base. I get good longevity and to my surprise even some compliments when I wear it (no, I have not worn it around Luca Turin who gives it his lowest rating in his recently published book “Perfumes”!). I limit my use to warmer weather (it doesn’t develop as well in cooler weather) and it is great for the outdoors.

I have a lot of admiration for Habit Rouge. I think the thing that impresses me most is how the vanilla is presented. It is sweet, but just below the edge of too sweet. There is a citrus tinge to it that gives it a sherbet like character that another reviewer has noted. This coupled with leather and a powdery character define the fragrance. Great duration. A classy fragrance.

Excessively sweet with disappointingly weak wood notes. Even for other Creed’s that I dislike, I typically can find something I respect about them. Not so here.

Tania Sanchez in the book “Perfumes” (co-authored with Luca Turin) suggests violet leaves as prominent here, and while it does not appear in the scent pyramid, I would tend to agree with him. Violet leaves and lime. Very sexy? Not even close. How about calling it ‘Somewhat Boring for Everyone’? Okay, maybe that is a little harsh, but it is rather unexciting. (Revised and corrected - 22 May 08).

A synthetic green scent, not really offensive, but far from compelling. The mintiness stood out from other fragrances of this type, but Hugo didn’t really appeal to me.

There are over 100 fragrances in the Basenotes directory with the word ‘black’ in their name. But there is only one ‘double black’. What does black suggest? I would like to think birch tar, leather, crude oil, coffee, molasses, burnt toast, well anything that is very dark. And I would like to think ‘double black’ should be even more extreme. Perhaps it should be a thick black syrupy sludge. But Double Black is not that, and with the exception of coffee in the notes, it isn’t really black at all. The opening has a wonderful burst of mango with pepper. (While the pepper may suggest black, the mango is anything but black). This lasts all of 30 seconds. Coffee emerges and a general tropical fruity sweetness (as if the mango is blurred beyond its distinctive character), with nutmeg. At this point it becomes obnoxious to me: too sweet and too much contrast between the coffee and the sweetness. This lasts much too long and by the time it settles I really don’t want anything more to do with it. So I can’t recommend this one.

The V must stand for vanilla here, as vanilla is the dominant note here. It starts with vanilla and citrus. The citrus fades and amber and woods emerge, but vanilla remains prominent. Quite sweet, and close to my tolerance limit for sweetness – but just below it. Sexy. I enjoy it.

Starts with a rather generic citrus opening, then ginger emerges as the prominent heart note. The ginger is potent, but shortlived. After that, I don’t get much of anything. Not especially interesting.

The opening reminds me a lot of Creed’s Millésime Impérial, much more so than Unforgivable. And if it developed similarly past the first 20 minutes, I would be very pleased to own it. However, it declines quickly and ceases to be interesting to me. So I give it a neutral rating, as do the majority of reviewers here. It is unusual for a fragrance on Basenotes to have as many reviews as Reaction for Men, with the most common rating being neutral.

Per by box, the notes are Bergamot, Orange, Lemon, Mandarin, Neroli, Clove, Thyme, Rosemary, Cinnamon, Geranium, Patchouli, “Sensual Note” [I would infer this to be Civet], Sandalwood and Vanilla. For me, citrus, civet, spice dominate here, with vanilla in the background. Sensual, animalic and different to me – I find it to be interesting. Quite regrettable that this one was discontinued.

What makes John Varvatos stand out for me the tamarind and date early in the development. The whole of it is nice enough, with the smooth ambery-leather drydown. But it is the fruity notes that are special to me and made this ‘must have’ for me. Good projection. I have gotten compliments for it. Good duration. Recommended.

Why try Djedi? What struck me is that before mine there are but six reviews, all positive, several of which describe Djedi as not just a fragrance, but as an experience. While many fragrances reviewed on Basenotes produce intense reactions, few seem to rival the effects of Djedi.

Curiosity got the best of me, so I obtained a small decant of the vintage parfum (not the reissue). Was it worth it? Yes! Dark, earthy, pungent, austere and unlike anything I have ever tried. A great scent to support introspective thinking and quiet contemplation. I cannot help but wonder how wearers were affected and impressed by Djedi in the 1920s.

It starts with cool tangerine and morphs into a warm black currant and musk accord. To my nose the drydown has a soapy character. Not very long lasting on my skin. Worth a try, but I nothing I would buy.

Cyprès-Musc was the first Creed I tried and it remains a favorite of mine. I see it as a scent of ‘cool-warm’ contrasts: a cool, crisp Cypress wood, wrapped in a warm musk, supported by oakmoss. I think of it as an autumn scent: it suggests to me a walk in woods on late day in Indian Summer. The scent of pine needles on the trail fills the air; the heat of sun is felt, but in a quiet way. Intensely coniferous in its opening, I realize it won’t be for everyone. A rather simple scent, but unique. It lasts 12+ hours on me.

This was the first feminine perfume I have recollection of smelling. It was my mother’s perfume and I remember it from my teen years and before. L’Aimant had a consistently negative effect on me. Whenever my mother sprayed it and I was on within 20 feet of her bedroom, I would become lightheaded and get a headache: a precursor of migraines to come. This was a heavy, powdery, aldehydic scent and one that gave me a negative view of women’s perfumes in general until I was well into my 20s.

Zeste Mandarine Pamplemousse (ZMP) reminds me of two other citrus-based Creeds, namely Citrus Bigarrade and Neroli Sauvage. And of the three, ZMP is the least memorable. ZMP is similar to Citrus Bigarrade (both have citrus and floral notes), but I find the citrus opening in Citrus Bigarrade to be brighter and fresher.

Moving from comparison to description, ZMP opens with a tart, watery citrus. Floral and woody notes then emerge. I get decent longevity out of it, but I don’t find it especially interesting or compelling. I also don’t see it as well-suited for a woman, although Creed lists it as unisex.

I make a point to read other reviewer’s comments to see if their words capture my experience. As I was having difficulty describing Bulgari Pour Homme, I was relieved to find one reviewer describe it as having a “musty metallic accord”. I could not have said it any better. I get that for 3+ hours and then the metal fades. Mustiness remains, so I must give it a thumbs down (pun intended).

Rochas Man was my first gourmand experience and it remains a favorite. Mocha and vanilla are prominent here and while the presentation is sweet, I do not find it to be excessively so (I do not like excessively sweet scents). I prefer this to Bond’s New Haarlem, which is similar, but darker and less sweet. To my nose, I get a tinge of anise in the opening. It isn’t listed in the notes and perhaps it is just my perception of the opening accord. Anise is something I am not fond of, but it is very light here, and I actually like it. This dissipates quickly and the mocha and vanilla dominate, anchored by green notes in the background. It sounds incongruous but it actually works quite well. Great longevity. Very sexy!

I like the smell of GIT very much, but I cannot say that this is how I would like to smell. I would like my bedding to smell like after being fresh out of the dryer. Indeed GIT reminds me of the smell of some laundry detergents and fabric softeners – very clean and slightly floral. I suspect violet leaves are the dominant note here and while I get decent longevity I cannot say that I get the typical Creed ambergris drydown.

In view of the existence of counterfeit GIT that has been discussed ad infinitum on Basenotes, I cannot help but wonder how many (if any) of the Basenotes reviews were of a fake product. I also think it would be possible for a woman to wear GIT. I would be curious to know if anyone has had similar thoughts or success with that.

I first tried OV in 2007 and sampled it at least a half dozen times before the end of summer. I felt displeased with it, but I felt more puzzled than capable of stating any reason for my displeasure. I put it aside for many months and recently retested it. My experience is much more positive now than it was and I appreciate the deep green scent, the soapy feeling OV gives, as well as great lasting power (12+ hours on me). Masculine and devoid of sweetness. I learned something valuable here: if one cannot determine why a fragrance is unsatisfactory to them, perhaps it is better to put it aside for awhile and reassess it again (I had a similar experience with Terre d’Hermes): the conclusions may be refined or change altogether. In retrospect, I think my dissatisfaction with OV was because it was unfamiliar and different than anything I had previously worn. While I doubt I would ever wear OV enough to justify a purchase, I do think it is well made and worthy of consideration.

Bois de Cédrat has a powerful lemon opening, rich and vibrant. The base is a very elegant cedar, however quite subtle. Too subtle: I have to bury my nose into my wrist to enjoy it to any extent. I originally gave this a thumbs up on about a half dozen trials from sample vials. Subsequently, I bought a bottle, which I chose to part with. The problem is that beyond the opening it offers too little. If the woods were more pronounced, this would be very interesting to me still. So I revise my rating to neutral.

Fresh and earthy green, with a deep spicy woodiness. Very clean, but not in a modern synthetic way. Penhaligon’s website describes English Fern as ‘delicate’ – I don’t see it that way. Perhaps restrained and refined, but there is nothing delicate or fragile here. Interestingly, Penhaligon’s classifies English Fern as a chypre, whereas most of our reviewers see it as a fougère. I can’t see English Fern as unisex. It is for a strong, confident man.

Rather generic aquatic scent with a subtle spiciness in the opening. Nothing especially remarkable or unique here. Inoffensive and tolerable, so I give it a neutral rating.

For ladies’ fragrance, I tend to enjoy the smell of grapefruit prominent scents. This one is no exception. Effervescent grapefruit mingles with floral notes. Lively and pretty. I don’t care if the grapefruit is synthetic – it smells good and it lasts a fair while. Decent projection. I think it is just great for a lady who wants to feel bright and feminine.

While there are similarities between Unforgivable and Creed’s Millésime Impérial (MI), I think it is oversimplistic to say that the scents are identical. The opening of Unforgivable is very different from MIs. Herbal notes overlay the aquatic character in such a way that they blunt it. I find the opening to be disappointing compared to MI. (I think Kenneth Cole’s Reaction is much more similar to MI in its opening, but develops differently). After about 30 minutes, Unforgivable’s fruity-aquatic character begin to dominate, and yes here we see a strong similarity to MI. However, it is not as potent as MI, nor as long lasting. There are some pleasant and interesting ‘purer’ (i.e., not fruity) aquatic notes later on that I find enjoyable and different than MIs. Overall, I think Unforgivable is less interesting than MI and should not be viewed as a substitute. I think it has merits of its own and certainly I cannot fault anyone for choosing it. I don’t have enthusiasm to buy it for myself.

For the first 90 minutes, it reminds me of stagnant water mingled with a bitter note. I don’t like either aspect. Then it becomes faint and clean; tolerable, but dull. And certainly not worth the wait. Notes (per Luckyscent) are green tea, nutmeg, bergamot. Not recommended.

Douro has qualities which are similar to Blenheim’s Bouquet (BB) and some that are opposite. It conveys a sense of dignity, reserve and class, much like BB. But while BB is has cool freshness to it, Douro has a warmth. Penhaligon’s classifies Douro as an aromatic. The opening is soapy clean, with bergamot and lime dominating. Sandalwood and musk are in the base, giving a warmth to it. Undisputably masculine.

Penhaligon’s describes Cornubia as a semi-oriental. Published notes are as follows:

Head Notes: Mandarin
Heart Notes: Freesia, Neroli, Orange Blossom, Jasmine and Heliotrope
Base Notes: Vanilla, Musk, Woods and Amber

Cornubia is a sweet fruity-floral scent with a good measure of vanilla. Very feminine, very bright, very sensual. (The Penhaligon website describes it as “dark”. I sense nothing dark here at all). Quite pleasant and while I do not like it as much as Penhaligon’s other feminine semi-oriental, Artemesia (a favorite of mine), I do think Cornubia deserved more attention. Indeed, as of this writing, it is being phased out and is not being stocked in the USA. And I am but the second reviewer of this wonderful scent on Basenotes! Recommended for ladies.

A really well-executed blend of citrus, herbs and rose. Very bright and sunny, I find it to be uplifting. A great introduction to rose for the man who may feel timid about rose in a man’s scent. I think it is better suited for a man than a woman. Its place as a classic is well-deserved. It lasts about 4 hours per application on me.

The opening lavender note is a bit sharper than I would like, but it settles down nicely. Wonderfully elegant woods here, very masculine, great projection, great longevity, great drydown. I would say that the dry down peaks at about the 8 hour mark for me and I get at least 12 hours altogether. A real mood lifter for me. One of my favorite Creeds.

I am not usually fond of coconut, but I find it to be tempered by the lime, making it balanced. The rum and musk accord that emerges is pleasant. A playful Creed, very different than any other I have tried. I will not buy it for myself, but I think it merits consideration for summery scent. I think it would work well for both men and women.

Vintage reminds me of John Varvatos meets Pumpkin Pie. I like both of them very much, but not mingled together. Discordant.

The sun is usually a pleasant thing to feel. I can’t say that I like it when I am standing on a hot asphalt parking lot in the middle of summer. It feels oppressive as the asphalt radiates its heat. It reminds me of this scent: Le Roy Soliel has a brightness to it, but I find a persistent oppressive bitter element. This ruins it for me. Consequently I cannot recommend it.

I love the scent of pineapple, so I thought Ananas Fizz to be worth a try. The opening gives the impression of a fizzy pineapple cocktail, but fades and what remains is rum-tinged cedar. Cedar becomes dominant to my nose, and I feel a bit disappointed to have been transported from the beach to the cedar chest! It strikes me as an odd direction for the fragrance to evolve. Interesting, but not something I would wear.

Most clean smelling scents suffer from either feeling cheap or synthetic. Mark Birley is neither. It feels very classy, very clean and very natural on my skin. Dignified (like Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet), but with a measure of warmth not found in Blenheim. The notes, per Luckyscent, are: sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, musk, vetiver, carrot seeds, leather, lemon, bergamot, mandarin, violet, incense. It has an airy quality and I think carrot seeds are likely to be a help here. Not especially long-lived, but quite pleasant.

Synthetic green and airiness. Unremarkable and not particularly interesting, but inoffensive.

Boss’s Soul is light and ethereal. It has a pleasant, clean smell that is too clean for my liking (as a cologne); I would rather smell it than smell like it. Citrusy opening, sweet amber-vanilla-musk in the base. The clean and light character remains throughout. Decent lasting power. Perhaps worth a look if you want a clean scent.

Guerlain puts this creation in a new olfactory family called “Luminous Woody”. Without reading that description, I felt the effect: if it could be seen it would glow in the dark. Florescent sandalwood! At points, it takes on a gourmand character and feels edible. I suspect the cocoa notes contribute to that effect. If I were to put in a family I would say it is an oriental-gourmand hybrid. I get decent longevity and I enjoy the scent. It is unlike anything else I have tried and feels familiar and foreign – it is hard to put in words. I don’t see myself wearing it with frequency, but I do commend it. Stated notes: citrus and star anise crystals, peppery elemi from the Philippines,Jasmine petals from India, Mysore sandalwood, Lapsang tea, bitter cocoa beans, hibiscus seeds, patchouli flowers from Indonesia

First, here are the notes, as listed at Penhaligon’s website:

Head Notes: Lemon, Lime and Lavender
Heart Notes: Blenheim has no heart notes
Base Notes: Pine, Musk and Black pepper

The reviewer scentemental captures my experience with precision when writing, “Blenheim Bouquet opens with a sharp, tart citric blast which is carried into the heart notes by the aromatic pungency of thyme and pine, both of which are incongruously married with a slight but decided camphoraceous note.” I don’t detect lavender in the published notes, but I get thyme (or more accurately: lemon, lime, thyme, pine). This is a dignified scent. It conveys a sense of the wearer being sanctified: not in a religious sense, just the notion that the wearer is set apart. BB doesn’t try to entice or attract, and that sets it apart from virtually every cologne on the market. I enjoy it on occasion and must say that I am impressed by it.

The opening provides an intense blast of birch tar and leather tempered with lemon. I find it to be intensely masculine, but it a rugged way, nothing sexual here. The intensity lasts for roughly 30 minutes. I enjoy this part. It would be easy (and incorrect in my case) to say it is gone after 30 minutes. What lingers for hours is a dull impression of what I smell in the opening. So it doesn’t develop, but is rather anticlimactic, and therefore relatively disappointing.

The opening has a medicinal character to it; I find it tolerable, but can’t say that I enjoy it. Thankfully it passes soon enough and the subsequent development is sensual, dark and mysterious. The rose develops beautifully. It develops and tempers the oud. It stays constant for hours; but I can’t say that it tires me. Great sillage and longevity. Recommended.

So much could go wrong here that doesn’t: it could have been too smoky, too spicy or too sweet. Instead it is nicely blended and balanced with a very pleasant dry down. Warm and sensual. I really love this one! Suitable for both sexes.

Lime dominates at first and then aquatic notes chime in. A clean, pleasant, summery scent, but not remarkable. More masculine; I don’t see it as unisex.

A very bold, detergenty green scent. Excessively loud. Doesn’t agree with my skin.

When I apply GPH II, my skin initially gets a tingling sensation, which is a bit unsettling. Almost feels like something burning. Thankfully, the sensation goes away in a few seconds leaving no evidence behind. As to the scent itself, GPH II seems dominated by Black Tea and Cinnamon early. It has a smoky character that gives way to gentle wood and musk in the base. Overall, a pleasant scent, but not compelling.

Nothing romanctic here. Just a synthetic, fruity, green scent. Not recommended.

I have worn this fifteen or so times, hoping it to click, but it has not. It seemed that on around the fifth time I wore Neroli Sauvage, it suddenly came together for me, an epiphany of sorts. But I have not been able to duplicate that sense. I note that Creed’s website describes Neroli Sauvage as “A symphony of tangy citrus notes”; I note that none of the 31 basenotes reviews to date uses the adjective tangy to describe this scent. I would describe it as a tart and spicy citrus. It last quite a while on me. Gradually woody notes emerge, but they are a bit more restrained. While I have gotten compliments wearing it, I give it a neutral rating. I am just not thrilled with the spicy character it has.

Britto For Men gets a thumbs up! Notes include rose, neroli, thyme oil, lavender, sandalwood, cinnamon, and amber. It is fruity-spicy-floral and well blended. Sensual, warm, happy, extroverted. The opening accord gives a cola-like impression to me. I am sure this is aimed at men younger that I am, but I feel comfortable wearing it.

I find that the tomato leaf is out of place here. It clashes with the otherwise clean character of the scent and feels rather discordant. And because of the “Time Release Technology”, I get tomato leaf all day. I do not recommend this one.

I dislike scents where anise and/or licorice are dominant, as in this Ungaro offering.

Today is a gloomy autumn day here, thick clouds overhead, ground wet from recent rain. Instead of giving in to the weather, I wanted to feel spring and Creed’s Feuille Verte did the trick. Fresh, green and serene, it works magic. One of the best Creed’s I have tried and one that certainly deserves to be part of Creed’s regular line. I echo the comments of zztopp and tilted.

Clinique’s Tailoring For Men was a lavender centered scent, a little sharp, warm, masculine and regrettably long out of production. It was a favorite of mine and I have just used the last drops in my bottle.

Creed’s Royal Scottish Lavender is a nice composition. Subtle citrus smoothens the opening, as does vanilla the base. The lavender is pronounced, but not sharp or overbearing. I find lavender to have calming effect and RSL is no exception here. A scent I wear not to project, but to focus the mind and look within.

I was hesitant to try Kouros considering the strong expressions of a considerable minority. But curiousity had to be satisfied and now I am in full fellowship with the anti-Kouros league. Urinal cake opening settles into semen-like odor mingled with cloves. I don't want to smell this on me or anyone else!

The opening smells like burnt plastic to me, followed by a licorice-like odor that is downright nauseating. A completely unpleasant experience.

I tried Laura Tonatto’s Oltre hoping to find an authentic marine scent which gave the impression of a storm at sea. My hopes were partially met. For while I admire its authenticity, I do not get a dark side in Oltre at all. It has a sweetness punctuated by lily of the valley and a subtle musk in the base. Overall, a nice scent, but one that I think more suited for a lady.

Gaultier's Fleur du Male is by far the most feminine “masculine” scent I have ever tried. Indeed, it is more feminine than any unisex scent I have used. I like floral notes in masculine scents, but this one seems devoid of masculinity. I find it to be overbearing and unpleasant.

Bond No. 9’s Eau de New York does not suggest New York City to me. But it is a wonderful fragrance with a citrus-floral opening. I detect the bergamot, petitgrain, neroli and especially the jasmine. Then there is the gradual emergence of oakmoss-vetiver in the base. Definitely unisex, clean and crisp. If you go to the Bond No. 9 website like I did today to try to learn more about Eau de New York, you will go through 3 or 4 pretty web pages only to find the following terse statement – NOTES: neroli, white lily, vetiver. I think that is a bit of an oversimplification to say the least. I forgive them (this time) and give it a hearty thumbs up!

Silver Mountain Water exceeded my expectations. I was skeptical of blackcurrant and tea notes – how wrong I was! This scent is light, but with incredible depth, conveying a mix of fresh air and clear flowing streams. Ambergris and musk add a sensual dimension. Silver Mountain Water has decent projection and duration. An outstanding Creed! Positively exhilarating and highly recommended!

Epicéa was a big disappointment for me. Creed’s CYPRÈS-MUSC is a favorite of mine; seeing how brilliantly CM was executed gave me high hopes for Epicéa. Alas, those hopes were not realized. My feelings about Epicéa are closest to those of Scottyboy: I get holiday scented candles. I get dill, dill and more dill too. Sure, there is pine there, but not a fresh, crisp scent that I think of when I smell pine: the other notes overwhelm it. And it doesn’t wash off my skin easily.

Rocabar has a special place in my heart. It served to awaken me to the world of fine cologne and if that were all it did, I should be most grateful. It has remained a favorite. To me it conveys a confident masculinity, sexy and distinctive. The cedar and coniferous notes are pronounced, but vanilla provides a counterbalance, without being excessively sweet. A wonderful synergy is at work! It has a warmth, but not one that precludes summer wear. Longevity is good. I recommend it.

The pyramid at the Lauder site is more complete, so I give it here:

Top Notes: Citrus Effervescence, Nectarine, Sky Air Accord
Middle Notes: Pimento, Coriander Seed, Red Ginger
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Iridescent Ebony, Deep Forest Moss

I find Pleasures for Men to be rather unremarkable. I do detect nectarine in the opening, but otherwise this is utterly dominated by the ‘sky air accord’, which I take to imply synthetic and clean smelling. Ho hum. I struggle to find the other notes, though I did detect ginger and moss. Inoffensive, but nothing special.

I found Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie to be rather overwhelming and overbearing. While I like the sandalwood underneath, the jasmine and rose are too powerful. I do not enjoy this one at all.

Hiris is an incredible feminine scent. Four words come to mind: sexy, reserved, empowered and mysterious. I think all those things when I smell Hiris. It gives the most wonderful presentation of the Iris note I have encountered. It has powerful presence without pretension and incredible complexity from its supporting notes. I never tire of it and have not fully grasped its glories. Good sillage and decent longevity. Highly recommended!

Citrus Bigarrade has a fresh, bright citrus opening that fades quickly. Lingering is a delicate, fresh, airy floral element that provides a calming effect upon me. Citrus Bigarrade
could be enjoyed by either sex. It is a scent one has to enjoy for oneself, as the sillage is poor.

Concentrée D'Orange Verte disappointed me. It did not capture the brilliant citrus opening of Eau D'Orange Verte, but emphasized the papaya note barely felt in the original. I did not care for it.

Eau D'Orange Verte is an exhilarating citrus scent, full of freshness. To me, it breathes life and I wear it on days I want to feel enlivened. As the experience of many reviewers, the opening fades quickly. The pleasant mossy note remains for many hours. While I would like the citrus blast to last longer, I have come to be content with what Eau D'Orange Verte gives me in its opening. Interestingly, I find that the opening does survive in (or migrates to) a cotton shirt and I will get a good whiff of it at the end of the day when I take it off. Alas, I am a man of flesh – if only I had flesh of cotton! I consider this scent to be masculine. If one is interested in the middle papaya note, consider the Concentrée, where tropical fruitiness dominates.