Reviews

Reviews by scentsitivity

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Eau de Quinine by Crown Perfumery

Besides the Crown Perfumery’s Eau de Quinine (EdQ), two other "modern" fragrances bear this name: Geo F Trumper's and Pinaud’s. I have not tried Pinaud’s so I will compare the Trumper and the Crown Perfumery renditions here. Both have the quintessential quinine note: bitter aromatic, not citrus but perhaps a satisfying alternative to those craving tartness. The GFT rendition is tempered by a powdery accord. The Crown rendition doesn't have this nearly so much, so the bitterness is more pronounced, albeit mingled with floral notes that are stronger in the Crown rendition.

EdQs have a barbershop feel of a former age. Still they are interesting fragrance and worthy of trying. I prefer the GFT EdQ, but this is quite wearable, albeit discontinued some time ago.
30th June, 2015

Eau des Baux by L'Occitane

This has a coniferous-vanilla/amber accord that works. Doesn’t feel especially complex or high end, but would you expect that for the price? It has good longevity. I own a bottle. Not a wardrobe favorite of mine, but every now and then I like wearing it. Reasonably priced.
27th June, 2015

Lea by Lea St Barth

Powdery vanilla, both feminine and tranquilizing. Not for myself, but I would like this on a lady.
26th June, 2015
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Note Vanille by Martine Micallef

A boozy, dirty, complex vanilla that is both sexy and interesting. If you are looking for a mischievous vanilla, this one is worth considering.
26th June, 2015

Tihota by Indult

Wonderful high quality vanilla with a musky base. Classy, elegant, and sexy. Tihota means sugar in Rapa Nui, the language of Easter Island, but it is more than sugar. Sweet, but not too sweet. A tad pricey, but a very nice fragrance. I think I would prefer this on a lady more than for myself.
23rd June, 2015

Vaniglia del Madagascar by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

Vanilla, if well done, is one of the few notes that never bores me. And it is well done here. A touch of lemon on top with a most delightful, high quality, sweet but not too sweet, vanilla dry down. A great fragrance!
21st June, 2015

Italian Citrus by D.S. & Durga

Disappointing at all levels. Starts with a whimper and never excites. A dull citrus, definite violet leaf and some incense, but more dull than anything. Of no interest at any price.

20th June, 2015

M by Puredistance

I was a bit surprised not to see cumin listed as a note because it seems prominent in the early development. I am glad other reviewers have noted it as well. Initially I get cumin and dry spices over leather. The cumin fades and the dry spices and leather remain. The leather feels a bit austere to me. I don't say that as a criticism, but as an observation. This is a well made fragrance and of high quality. Still I do not love it. With time, the drydown bores me. I think it is okay and say it is worth a try. Actually I am thankful I do not love it, considering the price.
19th June, 2015

Burning Barbershop by D.S. & Durga

It is what it says on the label! This one has the smell of maple burning in a fireplace, layered onto a soapy traditional barbershop fragrance. Nice coniferous notes and vanilla too. It is complex, interesting and enjoyable. I like it very much!
19th June, 2015

Méharées by L'Erbolario

Meharees has been compared to Musc Ravageur, and I would say there is a definite resemblance, particularly in the opening. I would state that the drydown of Meharees is different in two aspects: overall, it feels thinner; also Meharees has definite myrrh note not present in Musc Ravageur. A nice fragrance and good value!
18th June, 2015

Santal 33 by Le Labo

This reminds me of a middle ground between Montale’s Aoud Leather and Creed’s Original Santal. Not as sweet as Original Santal, but sweet. And a leathery note similar to the Montale. This strikes me as aiming more toward a leather scent than a sandalwood, though. I do like it.
18th June, 2015

Solos: Coriander by D.S. & Durga

Herbal and aquatic. I really don’t like the coriander note and don’t like the blend. Listed as a feminine, I could see this as easily unisex.
18th June, 2015

Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange by Hermès

This is an interesting study in contradictions: a leather that should be harsh, surrounded by softness. Enigmatic and unique, but I cannot imagine enjoying this on another person.
17th June, 2015
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Vetiver Geranium by Creed

Oddly Creed doesn’t list vetiver among the notes. Geranium is the star of this one, with vetiver playing a close supporting role. My problem with this is relatively short longevity, being hardly detectable at the 4 hour mark.

And I do prefer the other Creed vetivers to this one.
14th June, 2015

Aberdeen Lavander by Creed

First, note the spelling of Lavander. Only 3 fragrances in the basenotes directory have an “a” immediately following the “v”, compared to 109 with the more common “e”. Interestingly neither of the other Creed Lavenders (Royal Scottish and Royal English) are spelled this way. Nor is the spelling employed in the description. This isn’t intended as a criticism, just as a curious observation.

As to the notes, the Creed website does not list lily as middle note. It does list iris and there is certainly a healthy portion of iris. In fact, besides the lavender, the iris is the most potent note, giving a doughy-desserty character to the lavender. They were certainly generous with the iris here. The anise comes through from time to time, sometimes fading into the background. The same can be said for the tuberose. Overall, I think this is an okay fragrance. Not my preference, but not bad by any means.
14th June, 2015

Scent of Oger by Creed

I had the privilege of testing this Creed rarity. To me it smells like Sélection Verte, with a potpourri accord mingled in. Guess what? This works! I was very impressed and wish that it had continued availability. Very nice!
14th June, 2015

Boston Ivy by D.S. & Durga

I get two distinct green accords at work here: the first a dark, lush green coupled with a synthetic mossy-feel. I don’t say that to put it down; it smells interesting to me. The second is a light green accord: the scent of cucumbers, buried underneath the darker green accord. Two strikes for me: the two accords don’t come together and I really don’t like the scent of cucumbers.
12th June, 2015

Cowboy Grass by D.S. & Durga

Vetiver often dominates a fragrance to the point of making it feel one-dimensional. When it does, it tends to bore me. Not so with D S & Durga's Cowboy Grass. I get an initial blast of vetiver, followed by a complex grassy and herbal accord. The vetiver never goes away, but there is a nice balance between the vetiver, the sagebrush, wild thyme, and prairie switchgrass and that isn't all - the trademark resinous notes that are commonly associated with D S & Durga fragrances are there as well. This makes for a complex, interesting, vetiver fragrance that deserves more attention than it has gotten to date. Thumbs up!
11th June, 2015

Sir by D.S. & Durga

Animalic covers a spectrum of odors; the one I don’t like is here: fur. This is a furry patchouli with some citrus. Feels like a quasi-chypre, lacking the necessary oakmoss to make that claim.
10th June, 2015

L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

I needed to try this many years ago. No, own it years ago. The imagery of windswept spices over night air providing comfort to one resting after a hard day of labor is beautiful and to me, accurate. I am glad I tried it and more glad that I own a bottle.
09th June, 2015

Mazzolari Oud by Mazzolari

Begins with a medicinal oud and rose that smells quite familiar. A smoky woodiness emerges, to mingle with the oud and rose. A decent fragrance, but not a first choice for me.
08th June, 2015

Gypsy Water by Byredo

First off, I love the name. This comes in both EdP and EdC concentrations and my review is of the EdP.

It begins both lemony and coniferous. The lemon is sweet. The only other pine/lemon concoction I have worn is Blenheim Bouquet, but this comes off rather opposite, with none of the austerity of the Penhaligons offering. The pine gives way to vanilla and this comes across lemony dessert. Pleasant, but perhaps a touch too sweet. Is this the stuff of Gypsies? I have no idea.
06th June, 2015

Nero by Mazzolari

Nero reminds me a lot of Creed’s Aventus. The opening is fruity, but not as bold as Creed’s offering. They both share the birch dry down. Perhaps a more affordable alternative to Aventus, unless it is the top notes that makes you happiest.
06th June, 2015

Arancio e Cannella by I Profumi di Firenze

Orange-cinnamon candy with a very synthetic vibe. Nothing that I would recommend.
05th June, 2015

Augusto by Mazzolari

Luckyscent classifies this as a masculine.

One thing that strikes me about Augusto is how weak it is for an EDP, compared to heavyweight Mazzolari EDTs, Lui and Patchouli. That stated, this is a barbershop scent with definite soapiness and prominent mint note, that gives it a modern feel. I don't get much projection from it. While it lasts, it becomes a tad sour on my skin. Not particularly compelling, and less so at its price point of $150 for 100 ml.
04th June, 2015

Freetrapper by D.S. & Durga

Smells like fur and incense.
08th April, 2015

L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey

I am curious about most any amber fragrance, so when this became available I was glad to try it. The notes, per Luckyscent are as follows:

Cistus, Bergamot, Osmanthus, Jasmine Tea, Patchouli, Amber, Sandalwood, Olibanum, Musk

Luckyscent also put this on the extreme right of their masculine/feminine scale (i.e., masculine), something that they don’t do too often. And with osmanthus as a note? Hmmm… As to the fragrance itself: I was a bit surprised (and disappointed at first) to find this to be more centered on floral notes, particularly the osmanthus/jasmine tea accord, than on amber. There is also a tart citric note early on in the development that I find to be aggravating. The fragrance this reminds me most of is Hermèssence Osmanthe Yunnan, but Isabey’s offering is poor in comparison. Certainly unisex, but nothing that I would recommend.
08th April, 2012

Fougère Bengale by Parfum d'Empire

I get an overwhelming curry accord on top, followed by a sour tobacco odor. I think it’s pretty much unwearable.
19th February, 2012

Equistrius by Parfum d'Empire

At first I smell something like shoe polish and chocolate. Then salty iris. I don’t like this at all.
19th February, 2012

3 Fleurs by Parfum d'Empire

An unapologetic floral, with a touch green. Indolic jasmine and tuberose come out loud and clear. Rose? Rose, where are you? I really don’t get the rose here. I don’t love or hate this one, but if you are a lady looking for a bold jasmine-tuberose with a touch of green to it, consider 3 Fluers.
12th February, 2012