 | Yatagan by CaronI have both, vintage and new, and they are both very much like the hype--amazing, unique and formidable. I am a huge fan of Marcello's work and this is perhaps his best. That said, it took almost a whole year for me to give it a full wearing. I do not like vegetal scents and also do not like gourmand scents so the celery note was a worry. (I love celery, by the way...). Once the celery settles down and the heart notes are revealed, the fragrance takes on an amazingly masculine, outdoorsy musky funk that is anchored by hot pine and patchouli. Nothing to scare the horses, in the end--it actually wears close to the skin and is an amazing scent. 16th January, 2012. |
| | Halston Z-14 by HalstonOne of my favorites--I loved it in the 70s and love it still. Elizabeth Arden has done a good job of keeping this one going--the new version that you can get for an absurdly low price at Marshalls still has oakmoss (and treemoss). It is heady, masculine and a true powerhouse but with a surprisingly feminine underbelly--it does have gardenia in it after all..... This has Vincent Marcello's fingerprints all over it, especially when you consider some of his other works like Private Collection and Yatagan, yet this is a very wearable scent--ahead of its time in '76 and still going strong. I always preferred this to its brother I-12 although I am coming to appreciate that one as well. Ironically, considering what I have paid for other bottles in my collection, this is the one I would grab first if I was running out of a burning bouse. 13rd January, 2012. |
| | Gucci pour Homme by GucciI really love this--am on my second bottle. Warm and dusky with a very masculine combination of smoke, wood, leather and a manly, slightly dirty sort of musk (tonka?). Warm and peppery, this stays close to the skin. The bottle is fantastic--the chunky glass looks like it should be holding a peaty single malt. More than Lonestar Memories, this is what I think cowboys would smell like in an ideal world. I occasionally wear it when I am out riding and it seems to jive perfectly with the great (in my mind) smell of horses. It also comes in a great travel size--very handy. Thanks, Tom, for this one! 7th December, 2011. |
| | Polo by Ralph LaurenPolo was destined to be a classic from the moment it came out--unlike anything else available at the time (Devin and even Aramis come close but are no match). Masculine as hell, classy and sexy at the same time, this scent was and is an important addition to the canon of great men's scents. Unfairly pigeonholed as an 80s powerhouse period piece, although it was too widely--and strongly--worn at the time. A little goes a long way but will take you a long way as well. I have worn this on and off since it came out (although I thought that Polo Crest was a great option in its day). I recently revisited this--I was going to buy a new bottle but found a bottle that must be 15 years old that I had forgotten that I had--it had been slumbering in a dark, cool place and when I tried it, I was struck by how incredibly dry and leathery it is in the old formulation--less piney than it is now and more like Yatagan than anything else I can think of, but still uniquely Polo. Great stuff. 22nd July, 2010. |
| | Vetiver by GuerlainI was a precocious lad; my first scent in the early seventies wasn't by Jovan or Shulton. It was Guerlain's Vetiver that I picked out myself. That was the original formulation and even though I loved it and used the whole bottle, I never replaced it (moving on to Dunhill's wonderful Blend 30). For some reason, it smelled great but never smelled like me. Maybe I just wasn't used to wearing fragrance (fine French ones, anyway). Since then, I have worn several other Guerlain scents, in fact consider Heritage to be a signature scent, but I have never returned to Vetiver, through its reformulations.... 7th July, 2010. |
| | 21 Club by 21 ClubI bought a bottle of this years ago at the 21 Club and really liked it--very similar to Bois du Portugal. I used up the bottle ages ago but was pleased to find a stash at Marshall's a few years ago and bought them all--have been giving them out as gifts ever since and now I am down to one bottle myself. It definitely has the powerful old school vibe that is 21--it is like standing at the panelled bar on the ground floor with a good scotch in front of you and gorgous food being carried by on trays. Good stuff. 26th May, 2010. |
| | Eau de Cologne Impériale by GuerlainThis is a great classic and wonderful to wear--it just simply makes you feel good. For about twenty minutes. The light and bright bergamot opening is perfectly supported by the lavender and cedarwood. If only it lasted longer! This is what I imagine Don Fabrizio wearing in di Lampedusa's "The Leopard." While I am not given to constant reapplications throughout the day, this cologne not only warrants it--it necessitates it. 20th May, 2010. |
| | Dunhill for Men by Alfred DunhillThis is one of the truly great gentlemen's scents. It has all of the notes that I love--clary sage, carnation, cedar, leather and tonka--that are arranged in a way that is classic yet timeless. There is a clean element to this that has nothung to do with modern "out of the shower" fragrances. The drydown is the best part of this, I think. While it is timeless, I also love the true vintage aspect of this scent--if you look in old New Yorkers and Illustrated London News from the 30s, 40s and 50s, the ads are right there, in the iconic bottle. This has legs and I hope that it is never completely phased out as this truly represents what is best about the Dunhill brand. This set the bar very high and with the possible exeption of Edition, Dunhill has never bettered this. 18th February, 2010. |
| | Tommy Bahama for Men by Tommy BahamaI do not relate to the Tommy Bahama lifestyle and am highly unlikely ever to wear an untucked Hawaiian shirt, so I was prepared to give these scents a wide berth--how glad I am that I did not. This is a great scent--comforting and masculine, with woods and spices up front and a wonderful patchouli dry-down. Great value and I have found that all of the other TB scents are of an equal quality. 10th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 19th December, 2011.) |
| | Knize Ten by KnizeThis is a challenging scent. While it is an absolute classic and must be tried as a reference, it is difficult to wear. That said, I love it for its otherworldy air and ability to transport one back to another time and place. It truly is the leather (and powder) of ancient European men's clubs, redolent with well-bred excess. I do not get any citrus or green notes--just leather and powder. The initial blast of topnotes is a triffle alarming, but once it settles down, this is a great scent to wear when one wants to feel elegant and old world. 6th October, 2009. |
| | Gentlemen's Cologne by Castle ForbesGentlemen's Cologne is meant to evoke the bracing stimulation of the Highland air. I think that it achieves that and the result is a wearable, traditional scent that has all of the classic masculine elements: citrus, lavender, sandalwood, cedar and musk. Very British, nothing to scare the horses, suitable for office wear. That may seem like faint praise and while this will never set the house on fire, it is a classy scent that I am happy to own. Just the thing to wear with a kilt! 18th August, 2009. |
 | Elite by FlorisThis is as advertised: a mature, mellow, woody floral that is built upon the classical tradition of the house but a modern take. It does exude confidence and in fact reminds me of my father in law who has worn this for years and is himself certainly elegant, outgoing and exudes power. There is one note, however, that I cannot quite place--a gourmand, almost yeasty note like some baked good just coming out of the oven. It is like some urbane British captain of industry/bon vivant spent too much time at the bakery...... 18th August, 2009. |
| | JF by FlorisThis is my idea of the perfect "office fragrance"--an English office at that. With its lemon top notes and descreet woody/amber drydown, this is not going to offend anyone. Perfect for the summer months, this is one of the few fragrances that I think warrants layering--I use the aftershave as well as eau de toilette. Good linen and Panama hat fragrance. While I am a traditionalist and wish that Floris would return old classics like Tantivy and New Mown Hay, I think that this is a great effort for an old house to launch a new classiic. Yes, fleeting similarities between this and Green Irish Tweed, but the ambergris in the Creed offering really sets that one apart. 14th August, 2009. |
| | Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather by HeeleyI love this subtle leather scent. Soft and floral with a bookish leather vibe, this reminds me--for some reason--of Grey Flannel, but as if Grey Flannel's richer European cousin came to town. One of Heeley's greats (along with Cardinal). 8th May, 2008. |
| | Must de Cartier pour Homme by CartierThis oriental is very classy and wearable--but it actually seems to get stronger with time. As your body heats up this takes on a new life and becomes something more than just an expensive, well-made fragrance: as insistant as a muzzein's call, an irresistable force meeting an immovable object--and something's got to give! Great for the boardroom, even better for the bedroom. 6th August, 2007. |
| | Bois du Portugal by CreedWhat can I say? This is one of the greats--rich, mature, intense...subtle and yet--like the Ghurkas--this takes no prisoners! With Zino and Heritage, this completes my trifecta for rich, dry woody favorites. Best worn, in my opinion, in cooler weather. This is from the golden age of Creeds--emphatic, masculine and worth every cent. 6th August, 2007. |
| | Azzaro pour Homme by AzzaroI came to this later in life--I must have been smelling it in the late 70s and 80s, but I don't remember it.... Imagine the shock, years later, when I finally get around to buying some and realize what I have been missing! Justifiably famous for its perception of hairy chested machismo, this is in fact a beautifully balanced scent that starts out as a beguiling clean barbershop smell that takes you through a whole range of worlds (anise, lavender, ambergris) ending in--au fond--hairy chested machismo. And what is wrong with that, at the end of the day? This just plain smells good--it is clean, virile and sexy. Clearly an inspiration for St.Laurent's Rive Gauche Pour Homme, this is where it all started and ultimately--au fond--will end. 6th August, 2007. |
| | Habit Rouge by GuerlainSerious stuff. This is the quintessence of virile, mature and confident manhood in a bottle. All the more powerful because--at times--it smells strongly and deliciously of woman's perfume and yet the testosterone aura is undeniable. Not for everyone but for those who can pull it off, this is a winner! Sweeter than my favorite Heritage and lasts forever. Thank you, Jean Paul. 26th June, 2007. |
| | Coriolan by GuerlainThis reminds me strongly of Van Cleef's Tsar and yet, especially as it wears on you, it is unmistakably a Guerlain (despite the lack of the signature vanilla). Very nice, not deserving of being discontinued. 26th June, 2007. |
| | 1776 Russian Leather by ElshaRecently ran into this hard to find old classic at Carroll & Co. in Los Angeles. Like something out of the past, this product has not changed packaging in 50 years. It reminded me strongly of Knize Ten. It has an interesting Early American/Imperial Russian image thing going on and calls itself "The Aristocrat of Colognes." When considering the great leather scents that Knize, Creed, SMN, Chanel, Piver, etc., produce, this should be in the mix. More is available at: www.ELSHA.COM 9th May, 2007. |
| | Kiton Black by KitonKiton seems to be taking a page out of Bulgari's book with this one. It smells similar to origanil Kiton, which I love, but with a distinct rubber note--Italian luxury houses seem to equate black with rubber. No real improvement on the original, in my opinion, but still great quality and elegant, simple packaging. 20th April, 2007. |
| | Équipage by HermèsEquipage is--for me--the scent of foreign travel, exotic places, piles of pigskin luggage and hotels de grande luxe; harking back to a day when the field was narrow--the market was not glutted with luxury fragrances for men in 1970. This floral scent is saved from itself by having a rosewood topnote and earthy tonka and pachouli that ensure that it is masculine and sophisticated. It is ironic that--coming from Hermes--it does not have a leather note--almost as if the wearer provides the leather note from the shoes, belt, briefcase and luggage that he carries--all from Hermes, of course! 20th March, 2007. |
| | Blend 30 by Alfred DunhillThis was a great fragance and does not deserve its early demise. Complex herbals and florals (I could swear that there was a violet note)were perfectly ballanced and created a real one of a kind scent worthy of the Dunhill name. The musk and Tonka were excellent in the dry-down... and what a bottle! The official line at the time of its being discontinued was that the natural ingredients were too expensive for them to continue with production--not sure if that is so, but it makes sense, as this was great stuff. Dunhill regained some lost ground with their excellent Edition, but they have been on shaky ground ever since.... 8th March, 2007. |
| | parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Zagorsk by Comme des GarçonsHaving been to the sacred city and monastery of Zagorsk, I can't imagine ANYONE wanting to smell like it--the stench of the unwashed bodies, the miasma of the overflowing public restrooms.... sure, there is swirling incense that hits you like a lungful Moroccan black hash and the hypnotic drone of the chanted orthodox mass that makes you lose your sense of time. A religous experience? Maybe. An olfactory inspiration? No thanks!Having said all of that, the Series 3 Incense: Zagorsk by CdG does manage to create a surpisingly dry, resinous smokey scent that is not without its appeal--they wisely left out the body odor (been there since the time of the Tsars, no mere Soviet invention) and the drains and focused on the woody, smokey incense. Like so many of their scents, this is nothing that I would EVER wear, but I admire the strange and fantastic world that they have created. 24th February, 2007. |
| | Jolie Madame by Pierre BalmainThe Hitchkock Blonde of a scent--what a great image! This "ladylike leather" also summons up the image of another heroine of the screen, Emma Peel. While Mrs. Peel has her kinky leather side (Tabac Blond?) and her demure ladylike side (Caleche?) this is a scent that straddles the two worlds and would keep John Steed coming back for more (as if she would give it to him!). 24th February, 2007. |
 | Mark Birley for Men by Mark BirleyThe pedigree, the prestige... this should be a great fragance, but on me it opens with lemon Ajax and never drifts from that single note. Instead of summoning up images of posh nightclubs in Berkeley Square, it brings to mind a broom cupboard where the charlady keeps her cleaning supplies. I have to ask myself, do I want to smell like cleaning supplies? (The answer is no) 13rd February, 2007. |
| | Caron Pour Un Homme by CaronThe strident lavender topnote seems a little harsh and acrid to me, but it soon settles down to a wonderful soft vanilla underscored by the clary sage and rosewood heart notes. Definitely a period piece (along with 1934's other great men's scent, Dunhill) and a "whispering" scent, as the ad campaign goes. 12nd February, 2007. |
| | Bellodgia by CaronWho doesn’t love the scent of their mother’s perfume? My mother, as a young woman, wore Dana’s Platine, until the early sixties when her own mother died, leaving a full bottle of her favorite Bellodgia perfume on her dressing table. My mother took it and made it her own and has worn it all of my life. 6th February, 2007. |
| | parfums*PARFUMS Series 2 Red: Sequoia by Comme des GarçonsThe dominant redwood note is beautiful: resious, crisp, woody. There is a gourmand note lurking just beneath the surface that reminds me of... scalloped potatoes? Yes, there I am, in the most beautiful redwood forest, about to be served a potato side dish. Yosemite meets Betty Crocker. As wonderful as the sequoia note is, I have to ask myself, do I want to go around smelling of scalloped potatoes? (The answer is "no") 4th February, 2007. |
| | Eau des Baux by L'OccitaneKnights Templar kneeling in an incense-filled chapel, Arcadian shepherds guarding the secrets of a tomb, storytellers passing down oral histories of the beginnings of time, images of stars, the rose, a queen…. L’Occitane captures the essence of the Grail quest in their fragrances from Provence. There has always been a strong French connection to the Grail legend – L’Occitane is based not far from Rennes-le-Chateau, whose one time parish priest, Berenger Sauniere, is at the heart of a mystery that makes it a pilgrimage spot for treasure hunters and daVinci code readers. Also nearby is the supposed scene of Poussin’s famous Bergeres d’Arcadie painting with its cryptic “Et Ego In Arcadia” inscription. 3rd February, 2007. |
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