Latest Fragrance Reviews, Updated Daily

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    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Reporter by Oleg Cassini


    Aromatic, herbal, laundry and exuding a discreet floral breeze. The note of cedarwood is dominant, the  beginning is sour, "toilette kind" and hesperidic, the  dry down is ambery, slightly honeyed, opaque and mossy with reminiscences of fragrances as Boss Spirit, Paco Rabane Pour Homme and Arrogance Classic Pour Homme. The aromatic feel is produced by elements as laurel, lavender, fir, rosemary and artemisia. Really confortable, clean and conservative.

    10th February, 2012.

    barclaydetolly's avatar
    barclaydetolly
    United States United States

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    I Love New York for Him by Bond No. 9

    This is wretched. Starts with a cucumbery green citrus that reminds me vaguely of Wall Street, but quickly degenerates into a cloudy green mess that smells horribly synthetic (in a bad way) and absolutely will not scrub off. Very, very disappointing.

    10th February, 2012.

    scentsitivity's avatar
    scentsitivity
    United States United States

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    Aoud Velvet by Montale

    I get a mix of floral and nondescript fruity notes, coupled with medicinal aoud. I don’t think this one works too well.

    10th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain

    Oftenly described as Jicky with more civet but to me it is exactly the opposite. Resemblance to Guerlain's masterpiece from 1889 is clear but the civet in MdM is definitely tone down. The initial blast could result challenging to someone but the strong animalic aspect of the opening is quite efemeral leaving quickly space to a polite, yet incredibly satisfying, lavender/guerlinade fragrance of immense beauty.

    Old school, dandy-esque, compelling and extremely solid but when I'm in the mood for a classic lavender, I stuck with the skankier Jicky.

    10th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Sous Le Vent by Guerlain

    Oh my...Sous Le Vent immediately jumped at the top of my favorite deliveries from Guerlain together with Jicky, Mitsouko, Derby, Vol De Nuit, Vetiver Pour Elle and Mouchoir De Monsieur. A terrific dry chypre that is pure perfection. Mossy, woody, animalic, green and, most of all, not as sweet as many Guerlains. If you like classic chypres and old-fashion staples such as Mitsouko and Futur you can't miss Sous Le Vent.

    Mandatory.

    10th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    parfums*PARFUMS Luxe: Patchouli by Comme des Garçons

    A terrific patchouli/fenugreek/angelica root composition. If you dislike bold and dark fragrances you should better stay carefully away from Luxe Patchouli as it's very powerful and noticeable. The main element is blended with a strong immortelle note providing the typical burnt sugary quality while a strong resinous and moderately sweet base, adds extra body to this thick earthy composition. Less sweet than Sables but richer than Fareb, Luxe Patchouli is a perfect example of a dark fragrance with a modern twist.

    Unisex, intense, long lasting and unique. Another winner from the guys at Comme Des Garcons.

    10th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Musk Pure by Tom Ford

    Musk Pure sits somewhere between Helmut Lang EDT and Helmut Lang EDC. While it completely lacks the lavender note of the HL fragrances, the overall effect it's still pretty similar. A white and soft (yet not dull) floral-musk that will appeal to anyone who's into cleaner interpretation of the musky theme. Jasmine, hints of pepper and a slightly metallic vibe laying on a moderately sweet resinous base. Simple yet satisfying.

    Now that Helmut Lang's fragrances are getting ridiculously priced and very hard to find, Musk Pure is ono of the few valid alternatives...

    10th February, 2012.

    Off-Scenter's avatar
    Off-Scenter


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    Theseus by Lorenzo Villoresi

    Several of Lorenzo Villoresi’s fragrances open on cacophonous assemblies of clashing notes that only organize themselves into coherent accords after some time on the skin. Theseus, in contrast, launches directly into a crisp, harmonious, and uplifting accord of bergamot and lemon, then settles quickly upon a straightforward hesperidic fougère formula of citrus, coumarin, and lavender. As citrus fougères go, Theseus hews to the light and simple side, with an emphasis upon the citrus, rather than aromatic herbs, moss, or woody notes. The advantages of this uncomplicated approach include an air of unambiguously sunny good cheer and an unusually clear expression of the fundamental fougère structure. The downside is a certain lack of character that risks flagging interest over long periods of wear.

    Speaking of extended wear, one point regarding Theseus is very much worth mentioning. I shares with a very few hesperidic scents – Monsieur Balmain and CK One come to mind – exceptionally tenacious citrus notes. So if you enjoy citrus scents, but find traditional eaux de Cologne formulae too emphemeral, or if you’re looking for a citrus fougère that’s less complicated, dense, or confrontational than say, Lauder for Men or Tuscany Uomo, Theseus is worth a try. It may be hard to get excited about, but it’s easy to like and easy to wear.

    9th February, 2012. (Last Edited: 10th February, 2012.)

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's

    This one reads as a classic, Victorian British fragrance all over it. Which is why it may be difficult for me to wear. This is a very powdery floral and rose fragrance from the get go and throughout. It wears pretty linear on me. It might sound feminine from that description, but I think it is totally masculine, but something I don’t think I can pull off. I appreciate it for its classic notes and reigning from the Victorian era, but all in all just not the right rose for me and I generally love rose based fragrances.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Esprit du Roi by Penhaligon's

    This one opens up with a standard woody, citrus accord. Some tomato and raspberry leaves join in and later a littler geranium. There are some aldehydes in there and some florals join in the heart as well. In the base, some hints of vetiver, sandalwood and musk come through. There is a lot going on in this fragrance from start to finish and overall it comes through as sophisticated and easy wearing.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Sartorial by Penhaligon's

    I won’t bother describing the notes on this one as it has everything and the kitchen sink in there. This is a classic aromatic fougere that evokes images of businessmen in suits sitting around an office hashing it out. It is a very refined and sophisticated scent that bespokes a classic British feel to it as many of Penhaligon’s offerings do. If you are a fan of the fougere genre you must check this out. Classic, refined, sophisticated and simply great stuff.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Extract of Limes by Penhaligon's

    This has quite possibly the best opening of any lime fragrance I’ve encountered. I think it tops GFT’s Lime in that department. Really like sticking your head in a bowl of freshly cut limes. However, like GFT, the longevity is very poor and after 30 minutes there really isn’t anything left. If this were an aftershave and about 1/3 the cost it would be fantastic, but as a cologne at the given price I just can’t give it a thumbs up.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Elixir by Penhaligon's

    This is a somewhat disappointing woody oriental. Starts out ok with a hint of some florals and spices with some deep woods in there. It then fades rather rapidly and you are left with a prominent rosewood note throughout. Longevity is rather poor and overall this one just doesn’t seem well executed.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Eau de Verveine by Penhaligon's

    A very promising opening of citrus containing elements of lemon, lime, bergamot and petitgrain. After 30 minutes to an hour the cirtus notes fade and you are left with something floral with really the only prominent note to me is a heavy sage one. This persists for a couple hours before everything disappears. Overall it really isn’t a bad fragrance, but doesn’t really have a wow factor or longevity. Probably pretty reminiscent of the time period it is from.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    LP No. 9 by Penhaligon's

    A very green and floral one. Starts with a little citrus notes, but the green and floral notes take over quickly. The green tarragon and floral jasmine are the two notes that stand out most to me. Settles into a slight spicey and vanilla accord towards the end, but overall not that interesting and not my cup of tea.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    LP No.9 for Men by Penhaligon's

    I get the citrus and bergamot opening that lasts for about an hour before it starts to morph into a spicy oriental. To this point it is wearing quite nice, but then the clove note starts to come through. I can handle clove in small amounts, but this is a bit much. After awhile the clove mixes with vanilla, which I think turns this one even more for the worse. This is quite strong stuff so you don’t need much, but ultimately is not something for me.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Castile by Penhaligon's

    This is a great summer scent in the lines of a classic EdC. Starts a bit citrusy in the same veins as AdP, but quickly settles into a very nice orange and neroli throughout. There is some hints of florals in their (rose?), but overall a very nice and pretty much linear classic summer cologne fragrance that wears pretty light.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Opus 1870 by Penhaligon's

    This is all about spicy (peppery), woods (cedar), and rose. The cedar is prominent from the get go and is supported by the pepper and some coriander. There are hints of some rose after a couple hours, but they are more supportive than a front liner. A bit of musk in the dry down, but overall a very nice, refined British scent. Of the Penhaligon’s line, this is the most modern based scent to what is coming out today and it is well done.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Zizonia by Penhaligon's

    A spicy, woody, floral concoction to my nose. It starts with some black pepper, but immediately I detect some floral accords that may be geranium. Some other spices enter into the mix and it develops that house “Penhaligon’s” note of dusty, powdery accords that I don’t like in many of theirs. Some slight woods and vetiver in the base, but the dusty notes carry through. Longevity is not all that great and I find this one overall pretty middle of the road.

    9th February, 2012.

    Harvitz81's avatar
    Harvitz81


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    Juniper Sling by Penhaligon's

    This has an upfront blast of juniper and citrus rinds. Quite a powerful initial burst. The Juniper and Gin like notes quickly dissipate though and you are left with a very light musky/soap dry down. Longevity is rather poor and the very promising opening leads to an immediate let down.

    9th February, 2012.

    Off-Scenter's avatar
    Off-Scenter


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    Cuir Tabac by David Jourquin

    Whoops! Someone must have slipped while they were dosing the patchouli, because Cuir Tabac smells more of the head shop than of the tobacconist's. I don't smell much leather in here either, so unless my sample is mislabeled, Cuir Tabac is pretty much a straight-up patchouli on a sweet powdery amber foundation: more Patchouli Leaves or Real Patchouly than Tabac Blond revisited.

    Too bad. The patchouli is nice enough, but a leather and tobacco scent would have been much more interesting. (And equally fine patchoulis can be had for much less money.) Potent and lasting, as big hippie patchoulis are wont to be, but too commonplace and dull to justify pursuing.

    9th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Oud Immortel by Byredo

    The region where I live is populated by an huge amount of Immortal plants (we call it Camuciolo) and its distinctive smell pleasantly surrounds the whole area. Unfortunately I don't get as much Immortal out of Oud Immortel as the one I get smelling Histoire De Parfums 1740 or Goutal's Sables but this doesn't mean that this composition isn't good.

    OI opens with a considerable dose of Limoncello (with its tipycal creamy-sweet-citrus aroma) mixed with the characteristic Byredo's bitter note that immediately reminded me of M/Mink. In this phase, the overall effect wasn't really appealing to my nose but at the same time I wasn't ready to scrub it off yet as I was somehow intrigued by something that was going on in the back. After a bunch of minutes I realized that cardamom and oud were working together with a remarkable dose of patchouli to create a very interesting blend. A slightly medicinal vibe surrounds the fragrance throughout while incense and oakmoss add extra depth and consistency. A bold scent with an amazing lasting power and a great sillage.

    Overall Oud Immortel is a well done composition, perfectly unisex, that worths at least a try if you're into bold Ouds. Personally I'm not completely satisfied as the Limoncello opening is definitely unappealing to my nose. Anyway I would still consider it as a serious contendant if just a little cheaper.

    Ops I forgot to tell...

    If you want to smell some Immortal you have to wait more than three hours when OI starts to dry down. In this phase, if you really focus on this note, you'll probably get some...

    9th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    M/Mink by Byredo

    This is a weird one! I usually love weird scents, but with this one I can't really decide. It opens with a blast of "I don't know what the hell is that but it makes me wanna puke" (rancid adoxal?) mixed with "bodily fluids?"and "animalistic secretions?"...who knows??? I guess is the completely desweetened honey note that smells more like beeswax. Very dense, sticky, almost animalic (in a bad way). Absolutely disgusting and seriously disturbing to my nose. The weirdest part is that the drydown is simply amazing with a warm and meditative inky-frankincense note. It never happened to me that I really hated a perfume opening and totally loved the drydown. My solution could be that I spray it on my clothes and then I wait one hour before to wear them so I can avoid the initial brutal blast! BTW incredible lasting power!



    Rating: 5/5 (for its uniqueness)

    3/10 (for my personal taste)



    NOTE: This is a fragrance to experience. Love or hate type of stuff but whether you'll like it or not it deserves its status as one of the most daring compositions so far.

    9th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    L'Humaniste by Frapin

    Beside our personal preferencies (oriental, aquatic, chypre etc etc), sometimes I think we all should give a chance to perfumes who usually don't catch our interest or attention, and maybe we could happen to like what we didn't expect to.



    That's exactly what happened to me with L'Humaniste. As I'm usually into, leather, oriental, edgy and bold perfumes, at a first sniff I was just about to dismiss L'Humaniste as one of the millions citruses cologne avialable on the market, but I decieded to give it more attention discovering an incredible and quite deep fragrance. A superior quality is notiecable throughout, form the citrusy-peppery opening (maybe not so original but magistrally executed), through the spicy (cardamom) middle phase (where juniper and gin play their main role), to the fresh and mossy drydown. Sober and discreet but with personality and most important of all, masterfully crafted. A great summer fragrance.

    9th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Mister Marvelous by Byredo

    Woody-citrus. We've seen this iteration too many times. It opens with tart-crispy green citruses and turns to a strong cedarwood base joined by sweet amber. Not completely bad but smells exactly like a crude version of Cale's Assolo (and of a bunch of other fragrances of the past 20 years). Offensively overpriced.

    9th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Jardin du Poete by Eau d'Italie

    Aromatic and bitter citruses on top (mainly grapefruit) with a tad of basil, leafy green notes and peppery undertones turning into a clean vetiver/musky base. It could have been a very nice fragrance if it weren't for a weird wet-flowers vibe I get just right after the opening.

    9th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Santal 33 by Le Labo

    Love it! I was ready for another prentetious (and disappointing) release from the guys at LeLabo but Santal 33 is just amazing.



    Opens with a transparent and very dry cardamom note joined by cedar and a light violet. Papyrus and iris follow right away adding a slightly green, sort of wet, note that's just perfect and preserves the fragrance from being too overpowering or too loud. In this phase Santal 33 introduces a moderatley sweet, subtle yet remarkable, fig/coconut accord that enhances the creamy undertones throughout while a nutty-woody sandalwood make its appearance to drive the fragrance towards the spicy-woody-ambery drydown. 



    Personally I wouldn't classify this as a sandalwood prominent composition and while the main note is surely remarkable, the fragrance is so well blended and orchestrated to leave enough space to all the other elements to properly shine and play their roles.



    While being definitely different, Santal 33 made me somehow think about Papyrus De Ciane, Jardins De Kerylos and Calamus (expecially just right after the opening). It doesn't exactly shares many similarities with the aforementioned fragrances but the papyrus note is not very distant from the transparent interpretation Guillame gave us in PDC while the fig/coconut accord is just as refined and sophisticated as the one in Jardins De Kerylos (even if definitely toned down in the LeLabo). Last but not least, I experience the same slight wet/green, sort of cardboard-like, vibe that I much enjoy in Calamus.

Original, sophisticated and if moderately applied, very easy to wear.

    A big winner.



    9th February, 2012.

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Comme des Garçons Eau de Parfum / "A New Perfume" by Comme des Garçons

    So, where to start? Here: Comme Des Garcons at its finest!

    If you've been compelled by the most avant-garde deliveries from this house such as Odeur 71, Odeur 53, CDG for Stephen Jones, Guerrilla 1 or their Synthetic Series, you're in the right place as "Eau De Parfum (2011)" moves in the same direction of their most abstract/industrial/conceptual/ pushed-to-the limit type of stuff. All the CDG's hallmarks are here including the bottle that doesn't stand up on its own, but what it smells like?

    A floral leather! Well...sort of. If this definition brings to mind of Chanel Cuir De Russie, Jolie Madame, Tabac Blond, Cuir De Lancome or Knize Ten be aware that this is nowhere similar to any of them. The rendition of the floral leather represented in "Eau De Parfum (2011)" is similar to what Kazimir Malevich achived with Suprematism in the meaning that a Suprematist is associated with a series of aerial views rendering the familiar landscape into an abstraction... In this context Eau De Parfum represents both the florals and the leather in a sort of familiar yet completely "new" way. Flowers are mechanical, industrialized, alien, stylized yet clearly flowery. The leather (achived with a considerable dose of safralaine) smells aseptic, brand new and treated but at the same time provides a remarkable warmness and a touch of humanity to this robotic monster. Eau De Parfum (2011) is surely an android but with a big red and pulsating heart and a tad of sweetness.

    To all of the above you have to add something even more chemical that is what they call "Industrial Glue" and "Brown Sticky Tape". In this phase Eau De Parfums delivers exactly what he promised: the most true to life rendition of Brown Packing Tape and Bostitch Glue. Two of those type of smells that usually don't belong to body fragrances but we all still love (same as for gasoline, kerosene, steam iron, wet soil, brand new cars, tar and the likes). In this context the mastery of the perfumeur was to blend all of the above elements into a fragrance that results very wearable, comfortable and naturally plausible. Far form the typical approach we're used in traditional perfumery but nonetheless fascinating.

    Wondering if this is more a smell than a proper fragrance? NOT AT ALL. The new Comme Des Garcons is a terrific perfume, modern yet extremely solid, very distinctive, versatile and easy to wear but it's surely not for everybody. Personally I've never smelled something like it. Lasting power is very good as well as projection.

    Since 1994 Comme Des Garcons is confirmed to be the reference house for avant-gard, innovative and futuristic compositions (not to talk about their fashion collections) and after almost two decades we're so glad to discover that they still have a lot to add on the table. Kudos!

    One more consideration:

    One of the most common concerns when Comme Des Garcons announced the launch of this fragrance was the presence of safralaine (an aromachemical that smells somewhere between saffron and leather) that was previously included in their 8.88 with a disastrous result. Let me reassure everybody saying that the new Eau De Parfum shares absolutely no similarities with 8.88. The safralaine here is very well blended, never overdone or too prominent and mainly used to provide a leathery feel.

    9th February, 2012.

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Tuscany / Etruscan by Aramis

    What a misleading beginning! At the first sniff, few instants later the first spray on my wrist, i was on the point to put it apart; too pungent, sour and bitter-lemony (almost disinfectant kind) the initial bergamot whiff. What happened few instants later? A wonderful bold spicy-patchouli, citrus, florals and suede connection started  disclosing its soul and planting the roots on the skin. There is a notable pungent undertone of orange-cinnamon playing like a counterpart of a sort of laundry and conservative basic neutrality. The final outcome is very smooth, refined, natural, floral but decidedly masculine (astringent elements, patchouli, moss and woods), a bit laundry-toilette (citrus, caraway and lavender), slightly herbal-aromatic and silky-leathery. The leather requires time to come out but is finally protagonist. A classic with all its baggage of reminiscences.

    9th February, 2012.

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Oxford Street by Hugh Parsons

    I agree with the Pigeon Murderer's review in the sense i share its point of view about the weird temperament of the smell, about the olfactory apparent dichotomy between the listed notes and the effective smell and about the main characteristic of the scent its self and i'm refering to the smell of shampoo, hydratant creams or bath foam. I detect the tangerine, the grapefruit and may be the airy-gassy influence of cumin, star anis and truffles, the smell is less spicy than expected from the listed elements and the agarwood is detectable just in the sense we can catch something detergent or medicinal (better laundry i would say) from the top to the bottom. The final smell is not offensive or particularly unpleasant  but is just a sort of musky aromatic body balsam, bath foam or gel. Barely decent but i had expected something more elegant and with more texture and class from the brand.

    9th February, 2012.

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