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drseid Show all reviews
United States

R by Révillon

R goes on with a fresh, light spruce and oakmoss driven green accord before quickly moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the oakmoss fades to background but the spruce remains in the fore, now joined by slightly powdery lavender with faint hints of relatively sweet tonka bean and cinnamon infused aqueous amber. During the late dry-down the composition eschews its sweetness, turning to slightly powdery oakmoss with supporting cedarwood through the finish. Projection is good but longevity near dead-center average at about 8 hours on skin.

Revillon is a house with a great history of releasing winners. After sampling most of the rest of its offerings and being highly impressed it was time to see if one of its latter releases from the 90's, R, was yet another one. In truth, when I first applied R on skin I thought that it shared a lot of similarities with many fresh, aquatic type compositions from that decade. R really isn't an aquatic, but it has an ambery aspect that is reminiscent of many aquatics of its time. Something you notice immediately that you *won't* find in many fresh, aquatic type compositions is a significant oakmoss component. Unlike its best offerings like French Line, Revillon pour Homme and Eau de Revillon Eau Fraiche, the oakmoss in R is much more subtle, blending with the other composition components, but there is no mistaking its presence and it is wholly welcome. Less welcome is a tonka bean derived sweetness that permeates the key middle section of the composition's development which at times can be a hair too much. That said, the sweetness never gets too out of control and by the late dry-down it is all but absent, switching gears to instead focus on the powdery facet of oakmoss, differing from its more mossy green aspect shown earlier. The cedar in the base is used solely as a complement to the powdery oakmoss, never calling much attention to itself. At the end of the day, R didn't wow me anywhere near the other Revillon compositions I have tried (and indeed also bought), but that is not to imply it isn't good when evaluated independently. No, R won't make many "Best of Revillon" lists and certainly not mine, but it is a good easy to wear option if one wants a fresh aquatic-like composition, sans the aquatic, with a bit of well integrated oakmoss thrown in for good measure. The bottom line is the $14 per 100ml bottle R is a relatively inexpensive option that does not smell inexpensive, earning it a solid "good" 3 star out of 5 rating and a minor recommendation. If one is seeking this kind of composition, I recommend also checking out the long since discontinued and oft unfairly mocked Kerleo composed Voyageur by Jean Patou for a little bit more money on the aftermarket, but a better result.
28th May, 2015

L'Arbre de la Connaissance by Jovoy

Off putting fizzy opening smelling about Acetone, cheap tropical fruity juice (aromachemicals galore) and nail polish, really a disaster. In a really few time (a couple of minutes, not more) a sort of coconutty "fig leaves" presence jumps up in order to typify this Jovoy's creation as its main characterizing element (a sort of pina-colada effect). Over five minutes something woody, rooty, vegetal, bitter hesperidic (bergamot??) and herbal jumps finally up slightly "adjusting and setting" the general disappointing "ambience". It seems to catch in this phase a touch of grated green lemons's shells but there is unfortunately still something chemical and plastic roaming around. The note of sandalwood (the main element imo) provides a woody melancholic twist counteracting the lingering figgy-coconutty effect. In this phase the aroma is still juicy and fruity but slightly more restrained and on the way to smell weirdly tart-powdery (beyond the initial mess but not so better). I detect sour lemon, pinacolada and woods but overall is quite senseless, indefinite, hardly fenced in a specific olfactory dimension. Gradually, along the way, a sort of vaguely discernible soapiness (veined by a powder of sandalwood and patchouli) with hardly distinguishable red fruitiness, figs and "green-leaves" bitterness takes the stage without any specific place where to run. Sorry, a really disappointing "Arbre de la Connaissance" under my "respectful" nose. Not for me.
P.S: Conclusions....This is basically a sandalwood/suede accord with soapy-fruity-coconutty accents.
The dry down is drier, more delicate, subtle and close to skin (soft sandalwood, figgy/berrish soapiness and a minimal twist of suede) but the long messy initial run suggests me to insist over the negative rating.
28th May, 2015

Vétiver Fatal by Atelier Cologne

Not a true vetiver scent.
No, scratch that.
Not a vetiver scent. Period.

It is more of a fresh if slightly fruity-floral take on citrusy-green sub-genre with orange blossoms, violet leaf, and a hint of woods. Unlike many of the Ateliers, Vetiver Fatal seems to have a little more development and movement, especially in the first half an hour. Unfortunately it flattens out all too soon to a soft almost nondescript semi-citrusy skin scent, in line with the house understated style.
28th May, 2015

Santal Carmin by Atelier Cologne

Transparent woods as a fragrance genre has had a spotty record at best, many missing the target. Chief among the reasons for this is the oft-clumsy use of aromachemicals to approximate the scent of cedar wood or to add a measure of dryness to the composition. The typical end result? An unpleasantly synthetic, screechy woods.

Atelier succeeded where many have failed.

In Santal Carmin, the aromatic sandalwood is well-modulated, staying on an even keel throughout, with white musk keeping it light and bright, and smoky hints of guaiac bringing an almost animalic oud-like nuance to the composition. I find this aspect very enjoyable. Fans of rich, creamy sandalwood however should look elsewhere as this rendition remains true to the house's transparent, mostly linear aesthetics.

28th May, 2015

Cédrat Enivrant by Atelier Cologne

Nice and refreshing as citrus-bergamot pairings go, with aromatic herbs faintly in the background over a softly lukewarm base. Nowhere as zesty as grapefruits, nor as tart as limes go, citron probably sits somewhere near yuzu on the citric scale.

Nothing remotely ground-breaking here, no new twist to the genre and more importantly no overtly synthetic notes that could distract from its smooth wearable persona. I suppose if it ain't broke, why fix it?
28th May, 2015

Lye by Gabriella Chieffo

Lye is a strong mineral base, solid at room temperature, extremely hygroscopic and deliquescent, often sold in the form of drops whitish said beads. Do you know soap?
Both sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are used in making soap. Sodium hydroxide is often used to make solid soap, while potassium hydroxide is used to make liquid soap.

So, this perfume seems to be the liquid one! We are waiting (WOW) for the solid version!

Yes it is, this fragrance is an evocative scent, to be used with caution in order not to arouse too many memories! We can see an example of olfactory memory:
if you are thinking of a perfume bath, to be used after every meditation, that is Lye!

The raw materials don’t LIE, a beautiful and natural iris keeps its promises and does not LIE, even the vanilla doesn’t LIE, and even the alpha and omega never LIE.

Money well spent, I do not LIE!
28th May, 2015

Rose Privée by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Robin: “Hey man! I want to create a new perfume!”

Batman: “Don’t be bat-stupid! You are not so dark as me!”

Robin: “What? Listen man! Let's start with Batman's enterpises bankrupt... and with Batman that falls from the clouds…

Batman: “Remove that ridiculous Mexican wrestling mask from your face! I know you are a woman!”

Robin: “If you withdraw from creating fragrances with rose for years, you've also withdrawn from social life, what have you been doing all this time? Have you created any perfumes? Have you watched television? How could you be so stupid as not to throw an even occasional look at your business?”

Batman: “Ok, you are bat-right! I need a rose perfume, a bat-one!”

Robin: “WE need a rose one!”

Batman: “I need an artistic inspiration! To create a perfume with rose it is very difficult and bat-original too!”

Robin: “May you insert yourself into that badass prison that you like so much?”

Batman: “That PRISON? I'm dark, but not so bat-stupid!”

Robin: “What is it if not a place, devoid of real cells where detainees (and assumes also the food) are lowered from a large circular opening at the top right which is also the only access?”

Batman: “Ok lady Robin! Now we are in March! I will stay in prison until the beginning of April! So I will have a real bat-inspiration!”

Robin: “You can also escape when you want! Even if you aren’t Spiderman, you can manage to climb to the top!"

Batman: “YES darling! I’m dark, a big dark one!”

It was June and it was July, it was August and it was September...
In May, the romantic Robin took the May roses! In June, she added a bit of flowers gathered in GothamGrasse as June carnations and June magnolias.
In August Robin had the idea to add some August frogs.
In September she found some September leaves of violets…
Till November!
In November the character of Batman is supposed to be in that prison!
The romantic Robin finally visited him, bringing to him a bit 'of cooked food.

Batman: “Hey Robin! I had a bat-inspiration, it’s about rose and artichokes, capers and herrings too! Hey Mexican lady! Where are you going! Get me out! I am dark, you know? Hey Mariachi! I’m a big dark one!..”

Batman & Robin's perfume will be consider to be an abomination that is best forgotten. It is too romantic and for nothing dark...

Batman: “What is this? Spicy Mexican food? Hey lady! Hey Robin, COME ON!”
28th May, 2015

Cuir6 by Pekji

Cuir6 by Pekij opens with a bold, dark, bitter, dry leather-tar accord with nuances of warm-boozy amber, black pepper, thick smoke, something herbal and slightly fruity, and a slight sort of salty, mineral-metallic note I guess due to musk which I am not sure whether it’s intended or accidental – anyway it fits Cuir nicely, reminding me a bit of Spent Musket Oil by D.S. & Durga with a drop of stale sea water. The evolution on my skin features this same core aroma just becoming increasingly warm and smooth, at the same time taming down progressively. The array of inspirations seems (again...) mostly revolving around lived-in leather, rough tar wood, oily-ambery blackness, moldy soil and that kind of imagery, decidedly leaning towards nature here (so think of “dark moldy woods”). More than “raw & synthetic” or particularly avantgarde, the smell for me is just more artisanal, in the same league of AbdesSalaam Attar and that type of genuine natural perfumery. It has a cozy feel of simplicity and “organic” clarity which I appreciate a lot, blended with a bit of “American indie” inspiration (fans of Sonoma, Kerosene, Slumberhouse would probably appreciate this: more or less the same mood, just a bit more simple and natural). Also a couple of Le Labo fragrances come to mind, Cuir and Patchouli above all.

Now, while I do enjoy the fact that Cuir6 smells undoubtedly pleasant and quite solid in its simplicity, that it isn’t just about cloves and tar as many other leather scents, and that also the usual leather aromachemicals aren’t excessively prominent... to be really honest, all considered it still smells to me as much nice as a bit dull. For two main reasons – first, roughly said, there’s really nothing new here. Leather aficionados may probably find some points of interest, but for other “mild” leather fans like me, this is a bit like with incense scents – just another one. A good one for sure, but still just another. And second, most of all because more than a proper fragrance, to me Cuir6 seems basically a (really) well-executed leather-moss accord in a bottle waiting to, say, “be used” for something a bit more appealing. At the same time, not being or raw bold enough to make some sort of creative statement out of this. And thus suffering in my opinion from the same main flaw of many fragrances of this type (AbdesSaalam and many indie brands) – despite smelling nice, it can turn out to be a bit flat and lacking in some interest in its texture. The kind of stuff that “wows” you at first, but after that, you will rarely reach for it. Or well, that’s my experience. Surely a promising work, but sadly nothing really special for me. Given the challenging price, I think leather lovers still have some more fulfilling (and way cheaper) alternatives to this.

6-6,5/10
28th May, 2015

Lacoste L!VE by Lacoste

If there was ever a case of the juice bearing no resemblance to the listed notes, this is it. This is just another slight variation on Armani Code, YSL l'Homme, One Million, etc etc -- modern, bland, sweet, inoffensive....boring.

I was interested in this one because of the black liquorice, which I adore in Lolita Lempicka, but here I cannot pick it out. Nor do I get much, if any, lime.

C'mon people, you can do better than this...90% of what sits on the counters at department stores smells the same. And they keep churning it out because someone is buying this stuff. I just just can't figure out why...
28th May, 2015

Cologne pour le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Cologne pour le Soir has a feel that reminds me of the MiN New York scents I have sampled.

I see it as a playful experiment. It's powdery.

This has started me off on a bad foot with Maison Francis Kurkdjian (MFK).
28th May, 2015

Cuir6 by Pekji

Cuir 6 is my first approach with the Omer Pekji's creations and I have to admit that this "hardly approachable" fragrance embodies those sort of sensorial experiences that use to capture my passion for the extra dark and somewhat primitive pieces of olfactory witchcraft (which, I admit, lack of refinement, subtleness, historical olfactory parametres and measured class but come powerfully out as an experience of pure ancestral beatitude). Cuir 6, as well as pointed previously out, is a rocky/bone-dry take on an ultra smoky and resinous woody/leathery accord. The note of leather is paradoxically just a co-protagonist (or better, is neither just "treated" nor just embellished but is basically "flanked" by temperamental notable raw materials) since in here the focus is also over tremendously smoky woods (ancient and arcane), authentic visceral castoreum (a touch of ambergris??), birch-tar, black pepper and mouldy black musk. I feel the rubber too, accessorial but applicative. It seems like several creations from Sonoma Scent Studio (think to Fireside Intense, for instance) meet molecules jumping out the smokiest Abdul Samad Al Qurashi's ancient oils (think to Crassna 25 years Oud). I detect also nuances from By Kilian Pure Oud, Profumum Arso and Tauer Lonestar Memories but in here we are far beyond in terms of "arabic" smokiness, impenetrable mossiness and progenitorial mouldiness (my mind think to dark caves, coals in a stew, ancient sacristies, dusty basements, old massive books, boots polish, fusty storages). Over an initial whiff of smoky leather I start to detect a pure central aroma of burnt woods, ash and carbon while rubber, leather and mossy labdanum (yet working) are in this phase kept out of the spotlights, being gradually absorbed by the blackest of the woodiness. Along the dry down's way leather emerges again still misty and seasoned. As well as yet outlined, this fragrance seems ideally smelling about a rocky magma emerged up from the depth of the planet earth. Stout. (Anyway, this potion is basically over the limits of my taste although something I can't refrain to appreciate).
P.S: finally flat structure and really obsessive smokiness. Hardly wearable (a soldid experience anyway).
27th May, 2015 (last edited: 28th May, 2015)

Zara Collection Man by Zara

An aromatic-minty synthetic accord based on geraniol, citronellol, a touch of simil tonka and plenty of spices. In the same league as Collistar Acqua Attiva Green and the classic Faconnable by Faconnable Zara Collection Man (recently also available in its "green bottle" summer edition) is a metallic aromachemical-centered cocktail with a minty-calonic soul and a lemony tart sparkling vibe. Geraniol provides a simil earthy-sharp forbidding classic masculinity. A bad fragrance in its complex (for a conceptually close but far better concoction stick eventually to the classic Domenico Caraceni 1913).
27th May, 2015

S.T. Dupont Intense pour Homme by S.T. Dupont

The Intense version of S.T. Dupont pour Homme opens nearly exactly as the reformulated version of Rochas Man, just a bit less gourmand and more dry, a bit more musky, more leaning towards synthetic leather and saffron. Overall a bit more cheap and plain too; but the similarity is quite evident for me. Take away a bit of Rochas Man’s vanillic coffee and replace it with a dusty accord of amber, saffron and violet. If you know Jil Sander Man from 2007, that would be the ideal factor to add Rochas Man to obtain this Dupont Intense – the leather-saffron-violet part. If you don’t know these fragrances, well then here’s Dupont Intense: a warm, dusty blend with a gourmand vein featuring lavender, smooth woods, sweet notes of vanilla and tonka (more providing just a light warm whiff of Oriental sweetness), that leather which was in fashion some years ago (not a “lived in” rusty leather accord, rather a sort of polished, velvety, synthetic vinyl-like leather smell), some “laundry musk” and a powdery accord of violet and saffron, maybe some incense too. And a ton of ambroxan too for me, as there is a strong feel of dusty amberiness embracing these few main notes.

Some traits do remind me also Body Kouros as other reviewers mentioned online, although it seems to me a really subtle similarity limited to some lavender-musk-incense nuances – subtle, but surprisingly similar indeed, especially in the very last drydown, with that exact same of “gassy” texture (by the way, the drydown smells a bit like Bulgari Black, too). Anyway: overall a smooth, mellow, quite sweet but “manly” enough Oriental fragrance for men, smoky but crisp and gentle, a bit cheap and derivative but really decent for me. It’s refined and versatile, it projects good and lasts quite long. It is really too similar to Rochas Man minus what makes Rochas Man so special for me, so it’s maybe a bit boring if you’re a fan of Rochas, but it’s nice and totally respectable for the price. The kind of stuff you often find among niche scents at triple the cost.

6,5-7/10
27th May, 2015

S.T. Dupont Homme by S.T. Dupont

A really nice surprise to say the least. I have tried some other S.T. Dupont’s fragrances and they all seemed just a tad below mediocre for me, except the barely-decent Signature and the quite decent Intense version of Homme. But this one is definitely good instead. Briefly said, it is a sort of brighter, more floral and at the same time, more smoky version of Cartier’s Declaration, less heavy exactly where I wished Declaration to be so – that is, less heavy on spices, mostly cardamom (can’t really stand that in such strong doses) and cumin. Less spicy, less (for me) overwhelmingly linear and bold – less boring too, honestly. Basically a quite better version of Declaration, for my tastes. It smells more breezy, more fresh, slightly greener but also more smooth in a dark, smoky way. I think there is some iris or violet here, as I clearly get a really pleasant touch of something soft and slightly powdery. Plus, on the drydown it pops out a really enjoyable whiff of something fruity-musky, a bit like rose but more fruity and less floral. Fresh, crisp and refined, highly wearable, classy in an “informal” and versatile way, totally solid and well made for me. It would make a really decent and totally inexpensive signature scent. Recommended!

7-7,5/10
27th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Established Cognac 66 by Krigler

this NEARLY got a thumbs down or neutral, but thankfully, the drydown saved its behind!

first spray of this, and the rubbing alcohol, Isopropronal or nail varnish remover smell is almost Goppingly bad, enough that i thought i am going to need to go shower and fast!

but, lets not be too hasty. yes, ok, that initial spraying is pretty harsh, but let those vapours dry and drift off, and youre left with rather a warm, mellow ambery boozy note, that does actually make you get a bit confused, and think is this really the same frag i just sprayed?

It only takes one or two minutes for the rough start to dissapear, and youre onto a winner.
27th May, 2015

Ambre Canelle by Creed

I imagine Evita Peron drinking mate, in a room with scent traces of asado just eaten, and notes of amber and cinnamon all around the room! Wonderful!
And Banderas waiting for a tango and for some meat too!

“Evita! I love your scent of cinnamon steak!”

But honestly who cares what perfume she was using?
Below, an article with photos that tells of another fragrance dedicated to her, this time with a hint of rose!

http://www.bordighera.net/evitaperon.htm

The truth is that this perfume had been requested by one of the seven dwarves in Snow White, but she (the Snow young girl) was allergic to cinnamon.
So the Creed family kept it hidden for several centuries, until the smell has moved from a fairy tale to a legend!

If you smell this one, it seems a Tyrolean broth for dwarf miners.
27th May, 2015

The Swan Princess by The Vagabond Prince

Batman's true religion is perfumery, which never takes a holiday. But making perfumes 365 days a year means that, at some point, Batman is very busy and this would be a problem, because Batman lives to impede that any different perfumers create new fragrances! Christmas typically brings a competitor: Santa Claus! Batman hates Santa Claus because he isn’t dark, he is dressed in red and then he works for free!
On the street some children are singing! They sing for a while, and for a brief moment Batman stops to work on this new perfume, and now He believes that Christmas is something else other than a reminder that his dead parents aren't getting him any presents. Just in a single moment of happiness, our hero has a shocking realization: Santa Claus can fly!

And the Swan Princess is the very first idea He had in that sad moment!

“Tell me why, I’m so Dark and I can’t fly!”

Never create a perfume if some children are singing for the Christmas.
27th May, 2015

As Sawira by Penhaligon's

As Sawira is a beautiful oriental saffron oud rose perfume that is quite ethereal but also ornate in its presentation. Think of all the rose saffron / oud / davana fragrances you've tried in the past few years and this is that and more. It has a healthy dose of JASMINE, carnation, cardamom for a floral flourish, prominent in the first few hours, that is a celebration in a bottle. I'm thinking Bollywood dancing, Indian house music, weddings etc. I'm thinking saffron robes and burning incense sticks. As Sawira has a remarkable dry sweet wood base that I could swear is a Mysore sandalwood that you might have found 30 years ago, but not today. The dry floral oud sandalwood type base becomes more prominent until it is the central feature of a skin scent left after the burning off of the rose oud and saffron smoke is dusted on the skin. A nice combination of sandalwood, gaiac wood, patchouli, cedar, musk, and vanilla makes up the dry remnants of this hopeful scent. I am happy to see a house with the tradition of Penhaligon's launch a fragrance with this type of legendary patina. I am tempted to purchase a bottle if only to have such a treasure in my collection. As Sawira is a fierce feminine (masculine) fragrance, Or an enlightened masculine (feminine) scent. You can see I like it very much.
27th May, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Rose Privée by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Rose Privee opens with a natural smelling slightly tart hybrid citrus accord that resembles a cross between grapefruit and peach. Moving to the early heart the slightly tart citrus mix joins modestly powdery, airy lifelike rose as co-stars with a honey pollen-like lilac and subtle carnation supporting floral duo. During the late dry-down the rose turns a bit more powdery but keeps the powder still to relatively low levels as dark supporting lightly spiced hay-like coumarin in the base joins the rose remnants through the finish. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at around 12 hours on skin.

When I heard Rose Privee was composed by the pairing of super-star "old-hand" nose Betrand Duchaufour and up and coming star Stephanie Bakouche (Invasion Barbare) my interest was piqued to find out what the old and new "A List" pairing could jointly produce. On the surface, going with a rose composition appears a pretty safe bet, as it is tough to screw up and has been done hundreds of times over. That said, this is not just an average rose you will find elsewhere. Instead, the pair has added a very interesting and distinctive citrus accord that permeates the rose early and hangs around for most of the composition's development. I still am not entirely sure what is driving the tart citrus, but it comes off as a cross between grapefruit and peach. What I *can* say is I like the accord a lot, and it pairs perfectly with the staring airy rose, creating a distinctive smell that really is sublime. The dynamic duo also add in a carnation and lilac supporting floral accord to the mix in the composition's mid-section that seems to pair with the rose citrus like they were made to go together. The only slight disappointment is in the late dry-down as the rose turns a bit more powdery, joining some deep hay-like coumarin in the base that doesn't quite mesh as well as the rest, but this is only in relative terms and absolutely nothing to worry about. As to similar smelling compositions nothing comes immediately to mind, but stylistically, Duchaufour's absolutely superb Rose Cut by Ann Gerard from last year kind of fits the bill. That said, Rose Cut smelled quite different using peony and incense instead of the tart citrus used here. Rose Privee also would probably be stereotypically described as more "feminine" by most due to the rose's airy nature. At the end of the day, "masculine" and "feminine" are just words, but all I know is Rose Privee smells really, really good and would on anyone. The bottom line is the $180 per 100ml bottle Rose Privee utilizes the talents of two superb noses and delivers the goods big time, earning an "excellent" 4 star out of 5 rating and a strong recommendation to rose lovers in particular.
27th May, 2015

Triomphe by Rancé 1795

Soon at the opening it seems immediately to deal with an ideal combination of 7 de Loewe, Terre d'Hermes (I get indeed cedary woodiness, earthiness, spicy orange and pepper), Le Male (a barely peeping out soapy/balmy synthetic muskiness), Lancetti IL (wet dusty amber) and Body Kouros, such like Triomphe ideally (probably also pratically) being a wonderfully synthetic and modern "follower" of the previously quoted earlier market sharks. Actually, since the year of launch is just 2009, this Rance's juice (despite pleasant) ends finally missing the "crisma" of originality and any real spark of innovation. I ask to myself....where is the problem? I don't see the problem, the huge universe is various, a perfumer must not be morally forced to fill his mouth up with the pretentious word of "Arte", lately an empty overused word here on Basenotes (the point is: you pretend to be an artist, I declare to do commercial yet "runned" stuffs, well...you assume to be better than me but is just a vacuous supposition). Let's go back to the juice. Liquid Iso E driven frankincense, pepper, a touch of "bitter licorice-like" effect, mandarine, dusty-talky amber and unmistakable cedarwood unfold by soon their "swarming" vibe in this phase. In a few time the piquancy gets the stage becoming dominant, bitter/mild (better citric/mild) and mossy (with hints of synthetic ambergris, calone and galaxolide). I feel a lot the influence from mandarine, pepper and violet leaves which provide a sort of "bitter/red berrish" intense (almost juicy/candied) feel, overall surrounded by piquancy and sweet balmy synthetic-soapy muskiness. Well, along the dry down powdery woods (moderately sugary-talky) and musky-balmy vanilla jump definitely over the stage and the aroma turns out typically gymnic, still peppery, salty-sweet, calonic and synthetically "testosteronical", just another market attacker (really close to Le Beau Male in this phase) which is something legal and understandable, something far more acceptable (and probably honest) than all this "rhetoric of conceptual art" that is lately submerging Basenotes with its cliché of mediocrity. Madium rating under my prophane (and proudly unpretentious) nose.
26th May, 2015

Oxygen [8O] by Nu_Be

I'm pretty tired of talking about "art director", in the end we're just talking about a project entrusted to a Nose.

Knowing the art director of Frank Sinatra (Voyle Gilmore, for a period) is not interesting, because Frank was the singer, not even knowing what Pope (Giulio II) paid Raffaello is interesting, because Raffaello was the painter.
If we are talking about art, the art comes from artistic performance and curator is nothing. While marketing, yes, it is totally relevant to the curator.

Here, on Besenotes I said: “A Perfumer (as an artist) has the rule to dominate the raw materials, creating a performance that brings his work in contact with the nature, as a new and original creative act.”

So, to interpret the oxygen is therefore an artistic and original challenge, it is an intelligent proposal from an art director to an artist, as if someone say: "Frank, you'd be able to sing a sickly sweet Christmas song and make it a sexy masterpiece?"

Antoine Lie is definitely a talented Nose and in his compositional simplicity he always leaves a defined mark in his works. And he wins, again! He wins everytime they do not use his name, but his talent!

Mood Oxygen:
after a sweltering note of plastic bag, as if you are breathing your own breath, the scent opens onto a grassy horizon. Now you can breathe!
26th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Apple Brandy by By Kilian

I also have a sample, and not really blown away with this.

i had great expectations for this, i love boozy scents, and anything brandy sounds like a hit, but this is a little flat.

first spray and it doesnt have the same hit like many other kilians, and is definently much less potent, but perhaps thats their intention.

i too, get a kind of cider, or apple sauce aroma, close to the skin, and perhaps a hint of brandy but not shouting brandy brandy brandy.

as the drydown continues, it turns to a more burned wood kinda smell, with a tiny touch of incense, and a little more alcoholic tinge, but honestly, it isnt what i would describe as a pleasant mix. its a bit muddled.

Sadly, i have to say Meh.
26th May, 2015

La Vierge de Fer by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

"Let there be light! And darkness no more. He who wishes does not have a black soul! “I will come as a thief …” said Christ; certainly in silence and probably, for him, wearing shoes. To deserve his title, the Thief must act under the wide-open eye of the absent owners. In this case, it is not that tenuous eye with which Cain stares without regret, but another, which in some way will make an accomplice of Abel. If the fetishes, idols and charms of the Museum of Man, in Paris, had not met the 20th century, everyone would have missed that incredible mockery of Eros which The Young Ladies of Avignon certainly is. “The Negros had understood that everything which surrounds us is our enemy”, the wizard Picasso said to his paintbrush. Who, if not one of them, decided on life, by death, would dare, to unclench the teeth of this sex of the world: fear. Since it is the fruit of our entrails, it must be elevated. For that, not fearing incest, we will embrace it. In this way, she will give birth to our most beautiful monsters. That is how, a little rusty by dint of doubts, my steps have rejoined La vierge de fer (the Iron Maiden); that lily amongst the thorns."
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Stylized, conceptual. The official description made me smile as much as the verbiage of Womanity.

It opens cool, airy and gassy. Even with this air and radiance it is somber and metallic. Whatever thinned out fruit and floral are in La Vierge de Fer, it is floating in a film of steel spray. The first time I tried it, I thought it light. The second time I happened to be sampling an edc, Voyage de Hermes, on the other wrist. It immediatetely put La Vierge's cool metallic character into highlight.

I don't think this fragrance is a mistake. I like the attempt to put the fruity-floral theme into metal. But for me, it is always about how it makes me feel. La Vierge is a cool grey day at the end of autumn, with the cold, quiet pause before first snow hanging in the air. It reminds me of the time  a travelling carnival was in town, staying too late in the year. From far away I could smell snow cones and cotton candy coming across the field, mixed with the mineral cold soil around me. That artificial fruitiness mixed with the sober reality of brown frozen dirt gave me such a sense of the clash of two realities. La Vierge makes me feel that way. The somber wash over the fruits and floral is a mockery. You can smell them, but can't truly have their bright beauty. It is a disquieting feeling for me, so I don't think I can wear it, though I think it's interesting and subtle.

It is long-lasting and has a moderate sillage. 
26th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Straight to Heaven : Splash of Lemon by By Kilian

I already own the Straight to heaven white cristal, so this was purchased predominantly for my wife, but i love it too.

its got the same ending as StH, but very lemonny at the beginning, which does take a little while to dry down, ending in a very similar aroma to the standard one.
however, its is a little less sugary, and is much lighter, probably better for females or summer/hotter climates.

still a good fragrance, but probably not worth it if you already have StH
26th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Laylati by Sospiro

Utter beast! this is an amazing woody oudy frag with teeth!
i thought Nasomatto black afgano and Acqua di parma Oud concentree had some legs, but this is even more killer! the scent is different, bit more vanille.
the bottle is strange with velvet covering, but i buy it for the juice, not the bottle.
As for longevity, this only became a skin scent after about 8-9 hours. impressive fragrance!
26th May, 2015

Prima Rugiada by Profumi del Forte

A new Art Director has called on Batman to fix perfume change, convincing skeptics about the drydown power of the water to those who still believe that the earth is round.

“Batman, I need a new perfume, one really new, add a little of ingredients for a great drydown, please!”

“Hey man! I am a part time superhero, I'm not a creative man! Choose one of these ten-bat formulas or tell me what to do!”

“I’d like to make a sweet one fragrance, a poor one but very rich of raw materials, a normal perfume but a precious one, a perfume with rose, jasmine, violet, ketch up, Vikings, gladiators, princesses as Sissi, Casablanca, amber but with the smell of dew!”

“Deu! Deu! I am dark, I'm a man of the night, I know what is due and what is to be done, because I am a bat-hero! I feed myself of Justice!”

“I’m sorry, I'm Italian and I speak a bad English!”

“You are bat-forgiven!”

“I mean rain, dew as little rain!”

“I do not have any rain in my bat-molecules! Are you crazy, man? I’m a big dark one!”

“But at least you know what I mean? The smell of the water...”

“Look man! Here they are, ten discounted bat-formulas! Put them together and get drunk!”

“But… Water!”

And Batman runs away… walking!
26th May, 2015

I by Puredistance

Probably the most decent offering from Puredistance I’ve ever tried. Not because of the smell per se, since actually others smell better; but because for God’s sake, at least this is not something ripping off cheaper fragrances, and it’s not something annoyingly trendy. It’s different, it’s imperfect, and this is a win with this fashionisto brand and its mute, pedantic “luxury” conformism. This “I” is a not-that-groundbreaking yet quite fascinating sort of green-floral scent with a very peculiar composition; it smells at once metallic and earthy, “baroque” and futuristic, oily and greenish-crunchy, with a really admirable and enigmatic interplay of nuances and notes. I get damp flowers reminding of classic floral chypres mixed with something like coriander, light spices, crisp woods and something herbal-fruity. It feels a bit like a hybrid between a really classic, pleasantly outdated floral fragrance and a more recent mainstream woody-spicy scent for men, both connected together by a fruity-herbal bridge smelling almost rotting but “sunny” at the same time (and ok, depressingly synthetic like the cheapest cassis base on the market). All refreshed by a whiff of something aquatic. Pretty linear, it just becomes a bit more resinous-balsamic before vanishing off - incredibly quickly. Complex but playful, a bit screechy perhaps and not entirely compelling for me, but nice enough and creative. It has a sort of “hippie” vibe: I hate hippies really bad, but it’s nice within the context of this brand. Obviously this isn’t remotely enough to justify its demented price, but Puredistance prices are so surreal they can’t really be considered as a judgement factor, so...

7/10
25th May, 2015

Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein

Desperately bad on every level. Basically a musky citrus-lavender fragrance smelling like a fizzy warm burp after drinking cheap Limoncello. Deadly everlasting persistence. Gross and discomforting.

4/10
25th May, 2015

Lôvann by Santi Burgas

Lovann is the typical "supporting" sugary-synthetic (liquid vanillin, citronellol-galaxolide, simil spicy orange, "apothecary-like" almondy coconut) basic accord for an "external" (I mean coming from diverse pieces of the Loant Collection) addition of top and central notes. This unstructured sugary-medicinal juice (not my favorite for sure) shows us that each piece of the Loant Collection is exclusively due for a combined "implementation" with the further "members" of the "family" since smelling, taken singularly, quite incomplete and faintly structured. Far more "complete" and structured are indeed the Burgas's creations standing outside the Loant collection (I mean for instance Loence or Egnaro) which I recommend. So, in conclusion, the Loant Collection is a risky experiment which anyway could be intriguing for the lovers of the olfactory "assembly". Lovann starts soon as a sort of Southern Comfort's olfactory equivalent, I mean something "undrinkable" (hyper sweet) taken singularly and more interesting if used as cocktail's basic ingredient. This opening is sparkling, liquid and sugary-pharmaceutical (with an almost freshly liquorous chemical accord of synthetic hyper sweet vanilla, clear honey and "laundry" coconut milk). Going on with the run the aroma becomes slightly drier and dense (less "fluidy", more sticky, musky and milky), less sweet (but still a lot sweet) and vaguely fruity-exotic. As soon as the fruitiness jumps up the aroma takes turning out darker, more linear, honeyed, spicy and rounded. In this phase we pratically get inside the gourmandish territories since the aroma (going beyond its initial laundry-medicinal fluidy stage) works finally in to a more specifically balmy-sugary way (too pale to work on its own in a satisfactory way). Not for me, I'm sorry.
25th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Tom Ford Noir Extreme by Tom Ford

im not a lover of Tom ford by any means, infact only two (both discontinued) have interested me!

but this i tried today, and was pleasantly surprised by it. has a nice spicy start, mixed in with the freshness, and that dries down well, leaving spicy woody hints with vanilla which is what i do enjoy in a frag.

for me, way way better than Noir, certainly better made, and more Noir than Noir....if that makes sense.

worth a sample.
25th May, 2015
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