Suede, pepper, and the olfactory illusion of spruce needles - If I didn't know better I'd swear this was a nod at the original Burberrys for Men. Linear stuff but you know what you're buying right away, and you know it's good.
Rose Anonyme pulls off what I have only thus far experienced in the now woefully rare Arena di Roma - A quiet Oud. The blend of rose, bergamot, and soft spices makes the whole smell more than a little like potpourri, but in a pleasant manner the likes of which I would normally associate with Histoires or Strange Invisible Perfumes (Lyric Rain in particular). Compared to the usually straightforward and simplistic scents being churned out by Atelier this comes across more like a proper designer fragrance. It is soft but warmly radiant, it doesn't change much during its lifespan, the ultimate drydown is a bit banal, but the overall experience is one of fleeting pleasure and exuberance, and I like that plenty. Anyone who has enjoyed smoking blue lotus should give this one a wear.
Having had the chance to wear this product a number of times since its release, it is high time to review it.
Herbal green and fresh green - that is the first impression I get when then opening blast hits me. The fresh side introduced by a fairly restrained petit grain, which permeates the greenery very discretely. Draped over this like a gossamer veil is a whiff of oregano that rounds off the unique impression theses top notes make.
The middle notes introduces a lovely jasmine, which links the top and the heart notes, and soon it adds floral notes: firstly a very beautiful geranium that, in all its distinct presence, is mixing in extremely well with the other notes. A similarly impressive carnation completes the floral dyad beautifully. Both florals are of a discreetly natural beauty.
There is still more to that phase in the development: a delightful woodsy aroma of pine needles that, however, remains more in the background after its original appearance.
The base sees a gentle tonka arise that is not particularly sweet, accompanied by a slightly mossy castoreum they gives the final moment a bit of a - nonetheless quite gentle - bite. This touch of sharpness counteracts the tonka well.
On me this is not a development that never comes in sequences of clearly discrete stepwise developing phases, but the stages merge into one another in a very fluid manner.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and around four hours of longevity on my skin.
So far this scent - very suitable for spring evenings - sound very nice but not really deservings its stellar reputation, but with PPH it is the absolutely sensational quality of its ingredients as well as the astoundingly beautiful blending that raises in into the zenith of iconic fragrances. Although it is often called a floral chypre, this is more of a brighter and beautifully elegant composition. An elegant chypre is a rare thing indeed. The longevity is not optimal but this is the price we sometimes pay for prime natural ingredients. 4.5/5.
A watery yet sweetish rose scent over a scrubbed-clean lightly floral-minty patchouli. Airy and transparent, kinda like Ulrich Lang's Nightscape with a dash of rose syrup.
Pleasantly wearable for either gender with adequate but modest performance metrics. In the final analysis, its reticent personality just does not make quite as romantic a statement as MFK's Lumiere Noire pour Homme or Serge Lutens' La Fille de Berlin.
Smelling Mon Numéro 8 reminds me of a lovely girl I used to know whose cheeks I kissed as we said our goodbyes so many years ago. They were soft yet cool to the touch, with light barely-there makeup, framed by freshly shampoo-ed hair, tinged with her own unique musk I had somehow grown accustomed to.
I must say Mon Numéro 8 is one elegant, rather sophisticated acquaintance I had the pleasure of making. It felt like Bertrand Duchafour pulled a L'Artisan out of a Chanel Exclusif. It is shaping up to be one of those goodbyes I don't wish to make again.
While London: She Knew He Was Forever was clearly a pre-internet long distance romance, a snail mail lovingly crafted over a cup of tea, Paris: She Met Him In Secret is where the lovers' pent up longings culminate in a sweaty raunchy reunion.
Violet and iris are natural pairs but violet leaf and iris make for a rather unusual tension-filled coupling. The tension threatens to derail the composition right off the bat if it wasn't held cohesively together by the star of the show: leather.
Here in Paris, the leather snarls at the start of the lustful shirt-tearing encounter but towards the end as the reunited couple fell asleep in each other's embrace, it purrs quietly, its fury expended.
OK, you could tell I'm making this all up. You're right. But when a fragrance gets someone to do that, it is probably something worth checking out.
Thumbs up for vintage French Line by Revillon, although it may have some harshness in the opening - did someone roast the patchouli? It steps back from the sternness to be softer, and even slightly sweet, as it develops, and the quality of fragrances from the 1980s makes itself smelt.
A transparent yet pleasant composition based on (yet another) floral tea, warmed with what could only be a miserly drop of honey.
As far as originality is concerned this is clearly derivative but the name does make a play for the heartstrings:
She knew he was for ever.
What she didn't know was this fragrance doesn't stick around long enough for anyone to fall in love with.
The olfactory impression I had while wearing this was that of a light floral tea flavored with citrus peel shavings and crushed mint leaves. If polite and pleasant company is what you're after, Mentafollia fits the bill. Personally I much prefer her greener, less sedate mint-chewing cousin, Herba Fresca.
If you want to smell like singed, buttered tonka this stuff will knock you out. The quieter dimensions at work (especially the moss) keep things in check as best they can, but it's a tough sell to make a truly interesting vanilla-centered fragrance. Not at all a bad scent, overall. Fans of VI looking for a little more dimension may have some fun looking for old samples of Scott McClintock.
Enchanting fragrance -- clunky bottle.
This fragrance really got me the first time I smelled it. I first tested Javanese Patchouli where I used to buy all my fragrances, at the duty free shop in the airport wasting time before I catch a flight. Wandering around and just smelling the usual suspects they have at these shops I found this in a bit out of the way corner of the store and of everything I smelled, this really stood out.
I remember first smelling the scent of patchouli wafting around the sidewalks in Haight Ashbury San Fransisco where the bohemian culture thrives, this reminds me of those scents and I like that.
J.P. is clean, with very clear woody patchouli notes throughout, I detect slight citrus and pepper in the opening with the woods emerging a bit in the dry down.
In the day of safe gourmand metrosexual scents J.P. is a great change of pace for my nose.
I have quite a few patchouli dominated scents and this is my favorite, I can wear it with a suit to change things up as it’s not a sillage beast, my only small complaint is the longevity for me as it last about 3 hours on my skin and it’s a bit expensive.
I will buy another backup bottle as I’m not sure this is a popular scent right now and I will always want this in my collection, it’s quite unique.
I have no idea who would buy this. Liquid hand soaps use better rose than this.
Synthetic, plastic rose
A refreshing twist on the current oud-rose trend. The sweetness of rose is contrasted with earthy and dirty vetiver and "truffle accord".
Well-blended and easily wearable. Recommended
Thankfully I don't detect even the slightest hint of anything remotely fishy in this. But then again, I have never detected anything fishy in any of Bvlgari's Aqva line (where other people clearly have). I also don't sense much resemblance to Dior's Sauvage (which I happen to like). In my opinion this is much more similar to Bvlgari's Aqva Tonique & Aqva Marine Tonique. It's a bit sweet and a bit salty.
While it's undeniably an 'aquatic' style of fragrance, there is a sweetness to this (like the definite and clear pear top note in Tonique) that the note pyramid listed doesn't seem to support. A combination of sandalwood and benzoin could possibly produce the sweetness, but these are listed as base notes and I'm detecting the sweetness from the very top notes.
If the note pyramid is correct, then it's an odd mix of notes that unsurprisingly comes across as a bit of an oddity on my skin. Combining earthy notes like patchouli and vetiver, with creamy sandalwood and benzoin, then unspecified 'water' and 'sea' notes just doesn't seem like it would work. Yet to some degree I think Bvlgari and Mr Cavallier have pulled it off. I like it well enough, but I don't think I'll grow to love it, like I do the original Aqva or some of the other Aqva flankers.
I don't find this to be particularly synthetic or cheap smelling (compared to other similar fragrances in market). While it performs well enough, it doesn't match the longevity of the original Aqva or even the more recent Amara (which is a powerhouse on my skin).
As this was a gift and didn't cost me anything, I can live with my mediocre feelings towards it and I'll definitely get some fair use out of this bottle. I'd give it a solid 3 out of 5.
Old school indolic white floral.
Reminds me of old feminine by Patou. Maybe 1000.
Also similar to one of the Amouges I tried at Bergdorf: Gold or 25.
For folks who love vintage indolic white flower frags this is great. I am not a big fan of that style.
A very nice rose.Much like the current rose-oud ones . Ex-Idolo , Tiziana Rose, Montale.
Sure it may have no oud but the heft and complexity is made up by SW,Amber and spices.
I like this one
Starts piney and sweet and then Ambergris and musk take over. I like this heart phase. It then changes and becomes soapy and fougerey.
Base is reminiscent of Creed's Aventus/Spice wood
An old school green fragrance nicely done.
I am not a fan of galbanum and so this gets a neutral from me.
If you like vintage Weil de Weil and Vert you will like this
EL is a soft green leafy fougere, that upon opening draws you into its verdant garden aroma with shaded green plant essences that are similar to the character of Patrick Cologne and also Villoresi Pour Homme. But after the green is established El takes a strong fougere turn with a warm, not too sweet honey + coumarin hay fougere base accord. This is what the really old fashioned "fern" fragrances were meant to smell like! At this point in development I'm thinking it's a re do of original English Fern, but no the story does not end with green and green fern. Providing solid ground for this soft green fougere is a very dried suede leather type base that stays consistent with very traditional masculine, old world perfumes. The base is provided by patchouli, oak moss, castoreum and civet for a warm low purring softness that provides sophistication and pinache for EL and without it this fragrance would be not too much more than a pleasant drug store fougere. The very good fougere fragrances of the past along with their warm herbal hay coumarin character always had the option of a bitter dark oak moss full stop ending that gave these fragrances balance and contrast. With the regulation of oak moss I am impressed to see the bold combination base notes in EL to add that much needed grounding for this type of scent. EL is a deep green fougere with a dusty suede finish that would be a great signature scent for any style confident lady or man. Rating is: 8 of 10.
16th February, 2017 (last edited: 20th February, 2017)
I recall smelling this everywhere when I was a teen, people bathed it in. Back then as much as I loved it, I'd never have bought it because everyone else was wearing it.
I recently bought a bottle after rediscovering a sample and still love this scent. Fresh, green floral, a hint of citrus and spice, a bit aquatic and ethereal.
I can't comment on any of the flankers, but the original is beautiful.
This is delightful! A burst of brightness upon first spray. It settles down into an enchanting evening or cold weather scent.
Agree with Buysblind on everything he said about this gem. This is still quite similar to the regular CH Men but made better in many key areas such as the added spices, the suede is a little more prominent, and performance is better. The violet and grass are toned down, and the sugar sweetness is more of a Tonka bean sweetness, and skews the overall scent into a much more oriental-styled fragrance. This is undoubtedly a grown-up version of the original and I love this one even more!
I found some vintage Arpege extrait, and I would describe it as a softer, rounder, less concentrated version of Ubar. Ubar contains modern components that allow its individual notes to really pop and sparkle and be more articulated than those in an aged vintage fragrance, yet the scent profiles of these two are very, very similar - dominant sandalwood; civet; similar mixed floral heart with discernible lily of the valley. The top notes and aldehydes in my bottle of Arpege have long dissipated, so all I can know of it is a bit of its heart and a lot of its base, which doesn't have the mossiness of a chypre, nor the sweetness of an oriental, and is an elegant animalic woody thing at this point. It's unisex and smells quite of its time in much the way that Vol de Nuit does.
I've always found Ubar to be stunning in both senses of the word. I've kept a leaky sample in a drawer because it makes my office smell nice, but the fact that one drop left in a five-year old carded sample contained in a closed drawer scents my whole office, well...that's a more potent fragrance than I can wear on my person. That said, I've come to have a whole new context and excitement for it through getting to know vintage Arpege, because I can better see what Amouage were trying to do, and they really nailed the classic style in a way that doesn't smell dated, just timeless.
According to some Basenotes reviewers, EVERYTHING is a fougere. I think some folks just like the sound of the word "fougere" but don't really understand what it means. A fougere scent is built on a foundation of lavender, coumarin (tonka bean) and oakmoss. Without those three prominent notes, a fragrance is not a fougere.
If there ever was a NOT fougere scent, Red for Men is it. Chypre all the way, folks! The topnotes of cumin and artemisia harken to such leathery chypre classics as Aramis, That Man and Quorum, and the patchouli and oakmoss at the base are hallmarks of chypre scents as well. In between are carnation, spices, green and wood notes. This is a brash and bold scent that reminds me of the red leather suit Eddie Murphy wore in his stand-up film "Raw." It grabs your attention immediately and refuses to let go.
Indelicate, inapposite white floral. Full-figured tuberose is as enticing as ever. Normally the appeal of an overpowering composition is that it blankets you with its thick, impenetrable veil. Verges on the sensation of a physical unguent, slathered across your person. Inside the indolic haze, you feel as if you've been scouted out and marked by some base animal.
Orchid Soleil is somewhat true to this sensation of oppressive luxury, yet remains light on its feet. The standard plushness has been set aflame, vaporized into a thousand fine motes, suspended across a glittering satin curtain. Its showiness has worn itself out on me, admittedly, but there's something fascinating going on here that someone else might just choose to adopt as a mainstay.
Just like original Alien but, slightly "lighter". The amber and woody notes really stand out.
Very underrated juice. Long lasting. Opens like 212 VIP, dries down like 1 Million's opening.. ya I said it. It literally smells like the amazing opening of 1 Million in its dry down phase. Maybe these are just the mid notes? Because approx. 5-6 hours after application, I get some musk and amber, which would be the 3rd tier of this fragrance that I smell.
I don't judge a fragrance by its label, I judge it by its smell. Those who don't, you're missing out on many good ones.
Prices online range from $15-30 for this fragrance, and I would say it's worth every penny.
If you're looking for something entirely unique though, you won't find it here. Maybe if you haven't smelled every designer release there is. If you're like me, and you've smelled just about everything, you'll recognize its familiarity.
Basically a sophisticated and chic nocturnal sambac jasmine. Supremely feminine and glamour a la Thierry Mugler Alien, carnal a la Tom Ford Black Orchid (the jasmine-tuberose "nectarinic" final accord gives out a sort of musky orchid-illusion). Mqueen runs the way of super glamour-chic radiant florals. The juice starts almost dry and fruity (yes vaguely a la Dior J'adore - grapefruit, citrus, neroli etc). You can immediately notice the huge fluidy-peppery-aromatic-vegetal (vaguely - or better- ostensibly salty-ozonic) presence a la Jul et Mad Aqua Sextius (initially almost aqueous, minty and extremely "streamy") and the sheer floral radiancy (you could almost swear to detect a sort of lily/lotus/white peony-dominant musky diaphanous presence a la Estee Lauder Modern Muse or Van Cleef & Arpels Muguet Blanc) before to assist to a masterful jasmine/tuberose's starring spring-time blooming up. Ylang-ylang is another absolutely dominant note, providing that super chic synth-cosmetical-balmy/soapy/neutral exotic spark. Surely synth vetiver exalts the piquant saltiness counteracting a floral "juiciness". Along the way jasmine enhances its whispering nocturnal caress bestowing this delicate nocturnal vibe upon the olfactory fatigue. Dry down is mostly a musky soapy accord of ylang-yland, milky jasmine and balmy-vanillic tuberose. Effectively I detect a remarkable resemblance to Madonna Truth or Dare which is finally cramier. I detect as well a tad of the Bvlgari Jasmine Noir's silent darkness and romance. The final "twist" is surely elegant and sensual (well appointed in its complex) though definitely not unique.
I never tried the vintage version of this scent, but the current one I just received today smells nothing short of dreadful. It's truly the nightmare of a toilet janitor - or the wet dream of a pervy one. Both the citrus-neroli accord, the spicy pine-herbal accord and the musty, lavender-ish woody accord smell all like three different cleaning sanitizers mixed together. Aseptic, sharp, acrid, flat and artificial to the bone, with no evolution whatsoever except for a sligthly more prominent presence of the cheap musky-woody foundation on the drydown. You'll smell clean, that is for sure, just like a bathroom which has just been cleaned and sanitized with three or four differently-scented products.